Indonesia Travel Guide

Indonesia, with its varied landscapes, ranging from the central mountainous areas through the rice terraces and culminating in its beautiful beaches, not to mention the culture, the many temples and mosques, the excellent surfing and the diving, is without a doubt a spectacular destination.

Over the years, I’ve spent around five months backpacking around the country, and in this guide you’ll find loads of useful information and tips to plan your trip to Indonesia as best you can.

Quick menu

• When to visit Indonesia
• Documents and vaccinations to enter Indonesia
• What to do and see in Indonesia
  Destinations

  • Sumatra

    • Banda Aceh
    • Pulau Weh
    • Medan
    • Bukit Lawang
    • Tangkahan and Ketambe
    • Berastagi
    • Lake Toba
    • Padang
    • Mentawai Islands
    • Harau Valley
    • Bukittinggi
  • Java

    • Jakarta
    • Bogor
    • Cimaja and Batukaras
    • Bandung
    • Yogyakarta
    • Karimunjawa
    • Malang
    • Mount Bromo
    • Kawah Ijen
  • Bali

    • South Bali
    • Ubud
    • Central Bali
    • Lovina
    • East Bali
    • Nusa Islands
  • Lombok

    • Gili Islands
    • Kuta Lombok
    • Ekas
    • Tetebatu
    • Sembalun
    • Senaru
    • Senggigi
  • Sumbawa
  • Flores

    • Labuan Bajo
    • Wae Rebo
    • Ruteng
    • Bajawa
    • Riung
    • Ende
    • Moni
    • Koka Beach
    • Maumere
  • Sumba

    • Waingapu
    • Waikabubak
    • Tambolaka
  • Timor
  • Kalimantan (Borneo)
  • Sulawesi
  • Banda Islands
  • Papua (Western New Guinea)
• Suggested itineraries in Indonesia
• How to get around Indonesia
• Travel to Indonesia: costs
• Travel to Indonesia: safety

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Nepal Van Java.

When to visit Indonesia

The entire Indonesian archipelago has a tropical climate with two distinct seasons: the rainy season, which runs from November to March, with January and February generally being the wettest months, and the dry season, which runs from April to October.

If possible, it’s best to avoid July and August, which are the very peak of the high season. Particularly popular destinations like Bali get literally overrun, but it’s just as true that if you visit less touristy islands like Sumba, you’ll see very few tourists even in the middle of August.

To sum up, in general the best time to visit Indonesia is April–June and September–October, when the weather is good, there are fewer tourists and prices are lower than in the high season. This makes Indonesia an excellent destination to spend the peak of the rainy season in the rest of Southeast Asia.

Komodo National Park.

Documents and vaccinations to enter Indonesia

With an Italian passport, you get a 30-day tourist visa “on arrival” directly at the airport, valid from the moment you enter the country (the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours). This visa must be paid in cash and costs 500,000 IDR.

That said, for convenience, I recommend getting the visa online before you arrive, so you can skip the line at the airport. Getting the visa online is especially important if you plan to extend it for another 30 days, because only then can the renewal procedure also be completed online, whereas if you got it at the airport you have to go to the immigration office or rely on an agent. This is the official website; the visa in question is the “B1” and it also costs 500,000 IDR. As mentioned, if you want to stay longer than 30 days, this visa can be extended only once, for a total stay of 60 days, by paying another 500,000 IDR. Be careful, though, because when applying for the visa you have to upload proof of exit from the country within the duration of the visa (so within the first 30 days); so if your flight falls outside the first 30 days of the visa, you risk having your visa rejected. Here you’ll find a few possible solutions.

Inerie volcano.

If you want to stay more than 60 days, you could leave and re-enter the country doing the classic “visa run”, but personally I recommend applying for the “C1” visa instead, which costs 1,500,000 IDR. This visa can be extended as many as two times, for a total stay of 180 days. In this case too, when applying for the visa you have to upload proof of exit from the country within the duration of the visa, plus a copy of a bank statement showing that you have at least 2,000$ in your name. In any case, I recommend checking the official website; for once it’s well done and the information is clear.

As for mandatory vaccinations, the only one required is yellow fever, and only if you’re coming from an at-risk country. On top of that, when traveling I always recommend Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B. For up-to-date information on visas and everything else, I also recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).

Dancing trees of Sumba.

What to do and see in Indonesia

In this guide, prices are given in the local currency, called the “Indonesian rupiah” and often simply abbreviated as “IDR”. The exchange rate is about 1€ = 20,000 IDR. For the current rate, I recommend taking a look at this page.

Given Indonesia’s geography, I think it makes sense to divide this section by island before even talking about the destinations on each of them. For the map you’ll find below, I applied more or less the same logic.

N.B. Several times throughout the guide you’ll find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the Alltrails app you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.

Sunrise on the summit of Kelimutu in good company.

SUMATRA

Despite being Indonesia’s largest island, Sumatra gets a fraction of the tourism of more popular islands like Bali, Java and Lombok, but there’s still a good range of accommodation, especially in the center and north.

Banda Aceh

Banda Aceh, the capital of Indonesia’s Aceh province, sits at the northwestern tip of Sumatra. Known for its rich Islamic heritage, it’s also the only region of Indonesia where Sharia (Islamic law) is formally applied. Sadly, the city also stands out for being among those most devastated by the terrible 2004 tsunami.

What to do and see in Banda Aceh

For most travelers, Banda Aceh is nothing more than an obligatory stop on the way to nearby Pulau Weh, the island just off the city’s coast that locals call “Sabang”. That said, if you arrive in town too late to go straight to the island, want to break up the journey, or simply feel like spending some time exploring the city and its surroundings, there are things to do.

There are a couple of monuments dedicated to the tsunami, like this one (Google Maps), and the PLTD Apung (Google Maps), which serves as a museum. In the center, I also recommend the Masjid Raya Baiturrahman mosque (Google Maps), where for 15,000 IDR you can climb to the top of the minaret that towers over the city.

Finally, if you decide to rent a scooter, at Pantai Lampuuk (Google Maps) you can surf or simply spend the day at the beach, and further south there’s a waterfall, Wisata Air Terjun Suhom (Google Maps), which, according to the hostel staff, isn’t well maintained at all, partly because of a lot of trash.

One of the monuments dedicated to the tsunami.

Where to stay in Banda Aceh?

I spent a night at Lala Hostel, nothing special but clean and functional. The staff are really friendly and helpful. Recommended.

How to get to Banda Aceh?

The only sensible overland connection is the bus to and from Medan, but it still takes more than 12 hours and, at least during my visit, there were only night buses (Google Maps). Unless you’re on an extremely tight budget, I recommend flying; if booked in advance, flights to Medan are really cheap. I’d also like to point out that there are direct connections to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia with AirAsia. Basically, for anyone planning a multi-stop trip through Southeast Asia, Banda Aceh works well as a first or last stop in Indonesia.

From the airport to the city center, taxis ask 100,000 IDR, but if you’re traveling light you can get a scooter ride for 50,000 IDR (Google Maps).

Japanese bunker on Pulau Weh.

Pulau Weh

Pulau Weh, or Sabang, is a small volcanic island north of Banda Aceh. The surrounding coral reef offers excellent diving, but also, more simply, beautiful beaches without the crowds that characterize other parts of Indonesia.

What to do and see on Pulau Weh

Sharia law applies on the island too. I had read that bikinis were banned and that at certain times on Fridays swimming wasn’t allowed, but in my experience tourists are pretty much allowed to do whatever they want, and in practice the law only applies to locals.

Snorkeling and diving

Pantai Iboih (Google Maps) and the surrounding area is the best spot for snorkeling, as well as where most of the dive centers are, in case you’re interested (the other option is Gapang Beach, not far away). I had a small ear problem, so I didn’t dive, but a couple of friends confirmed that the reef is in good health and the diving is excellent. Here you can also arrange snorkeling boat tours, or you can simply rent a mask and snorkel and go DIY like I did. Rental for the entire day costs 20,000 IDR.

If you go DIY, I recommend walking to this beach; the trail along the coast is marked on Organic Maps and in any case it’s really easy to follow. The beach is practically deserted: when I arrived there was no one there, and while I was there only one boat showed up, with a couple of tourists who did a bit of snorkeling before moving on to the next stop of their tour.

If you don’t feel like walking, Pantai Teupin Serkui (Google Maps) is at the start of the trail along the coast. It’s quiet, there’s plenty of shade and a couple of restaurants where you can eat at modest prices. From the beach you can snorkel along the coast all the way to Pantai Yulia (Google Maps). I don’t recommend crossing the bay to the island opposite, because there are lots of boats going back and forth and it could be dangerous.

Small “deserted” bay mentioned above.

Island tour

If you decide to rent a scooter, you can go around the entire island in a single day. The roads are in great condition and there’s very little traffic. If you’re staying around Sabang, you can start with the Anoi Itam Japanese bunker (Google Maps); they ask 3000 IDR for entry and another 3000 IDR for parking. As the name suggests, it’s a bunker built by the Japanese during the occupation in World War II; honestly, there’s not much to see, but considering the price you might as well stop and have a look.

Then I recommend continuing to Jaboi volcano (Google Maps); here they charge foreigners 20,000 IDR and offer a paid guide, but it’s absolutely not necessary. There are several trails; I recommend following the signs for Kawah 4, which leads to the small crater (the trail is also marked on Organic Maps).

Jaboi Volcano.

The short hike is nice and pleasant, especially if you’ve never seen a volcanic landscape. I did it in flip-flops, and let’s just say it’s probably better to have a pair of shoes. Also, if it’s a particularly hot day, between the blasts of heat coming from the ground and the heat outside, you literally cook! So at least try to avoid the middle of the day. Not far away there are also some hot springs (Google Maps), but I was already hot enough and going there really didn’t seem like a good idea. That said, I’m sure that in the evening, or maybe on a rainy day, they can definitely be a pleasant place to visit.

The next stop is Pasir Putih Beach (Google Maps), also known as “White Sand Beach”. The beach is really nice and there was no one there even on a Sunday, but unfortunately, since there are no resorts doing maintenance, it’s not one of the cleanest. A little further north along the coast is Wisata Gua Sarang (Google Maps), an attraction that’s particularly popular with local tourists. These are natural caves with a series of “photo spots” that locals love; I didn’t even go in, but I’ll let you be the judge. The same goes for the Kilometer Nol Monument (Google Maps), which marks the northernmost point of Indonesia; it looked like a load of crap to me, but see for yourself! Finally, you could stop by Pria Laot waterfall (Google Maps). I went on the weekend, with all the island’s kids home from school, so it was super crowded and, let’s say, as often happens in Indonesia, the cleanliness situation wasn’t the best. But if you’re looking to cool off during the day and you avoid the weekend, it’s not that bad.

White Sand Beach.

Where to stay on Pulau Weh?

I got a room at Pondok Simpang Tiga, a very cheap room with air conditioning. The staff were really kind: they got me a brand-new scooter for 100,000 IDR a day, and on the day I left they even gave me a free ride to the port. That said, if you’re willing to spend a bit more, there are definitely better options.

During my stay on the island, I made friends with some of the guys on the staff at Casa Nemo Beach Resort & Spa and spent more than a few evenings there. It’s a really nice place and, even though they don’t advertise it online, they have a dorm at good prices. In any case, the property sits right on the sea and isn’t bad at all.

How to get to Pulau Weh?

From the port of Banda Aceh (Google Maps), there are at least two or three departures every day, both by ferry (about 2 hours, 35,000 IDR) and by speed boat (about 30 minutes, 100,000 IDR). The schedules seem to change often, so I recommend checking the Discover Sabang Instagram page, where they’re posted daily in the stories. To get to the port from the city, you can simply use Grab or Gojek, but be aware that you’ll be dropped off outside the port and, likewise, on your way back you have to walk out of the port to use the two apps; otherwise you have no choice but to take a traditional taxi. In any case, it’s less than a five-minute walk, so it’s absolutely not a problem, unless you’re traveling really heavy.

Once I arrived at the island’s port, I found a scooter ride to the guesthouse for 50,000 IDR. Taxis were asking double, although of course it depends on where you plan to stay on the island. In hindsight, I’d have rented a scooter right at the port, and that’s what I recommend doing if you’re traveling light enough. Not least because there’s no public transportation of any kind on the island.

Pria Laot Waterfall.

Medan

N.B. Medan, Bukit Lawang, Berastagi and Lake Toba form a well-established circuit among travelers, so much so that there’s a real network of shared taxis shuttling between the various destinations. Some travelers, especially families, even decide to hire a private driver for ten days or so. If you’re interested, on Backpacking Sumatra (Indonesia) or Indonesia Backpackers you should be able to get hold of a few WhatsApp numbers without too much trouble. Alternatively, many places to stay will surely have some contacts, and you could ask the people who run them directly. One last option is to contact Bagus Holidays Taxi via WhatsApp, using the number you’ll find at the link. From what I was told, you usually pay a fixed daily rate plus fuel. Finally, you could consider renting a scooter in Medan, as a couple of friends did. AXE RENTAL MOTOR MEDAN is often recommended, and if you want they’ll even deliver the scooter to the airport.

Medan is the capital of North Sumatra and the third-largest city in Indonesia, but it doesn’t have much to offer the average traveler. It’s crowded and dirty, and most travelers tend to arrive in the city and leave again within the same day.

Kantor Pos Medan.

What to do and see in Medan

If you decide to spend a day in the city, in the center there are a couple of colonial buildings such as Old City Hall (Google Maps) and Kantor Pos Medan (Google Maps). I walked past them on my way out of the station, nothing special. What I do think is worth a visit is the Tjong A Fie Mansion (Google Maps), which is basically a copy of the Blue Mansion in George Town in Malaysia. I had visited the latter two weeks earlier, so I didn’t feel the need to go, but I think it can be interesting, or at least the visit in Malaysia was. Tjong A Fie, the tycoon also known as the Rockefeller of the East, actually spent a lot of time in Medan and had a replica of his main residence built here. The guided tour costs 35,000 IDR.

I didn’t go to the Masjid Raya Medan mosque (Google Maps) either, but it’s often recommended. Designed by a Dutch architect mixing Moroccan, European, Middle Eastern and Malay styles, it looks really impressive. A short distance away is Istana Maimun/ Maimoon Palace (Google Maps), but the reviews are certainly not enthusiastic: apparently you can visit a grand total of two rooms, which have been filled with souvenirs.

Finally, the Maha Vihara Maitreya (Google Maps), just outside the city, is one of the largest Buddhist temples in the country.

Old City Hall.

Where to stay in Medan?

If you decide to spend the night in the city, RedDoorz Hostel @ Capsule Inn Medan isn’t bad at all. I spent a night there arriving from Banda Aceh. Clean place, and the location isn’t too far from either the center or the bus station. If instead you have an early morning flight or, for whatever reason, want to stay near the airport, I recommend My Studio Hotels Kualanamu Airport Medan, a strategic location for anyone who wants to avoid ending up in the city, with everything that comes with it. They also offer a shuttle service to the airport.

How to get to Medan?

As mentioned, there are night buses arriving from Banda Aceh, but a flight, if booked in advance, costs only a little more and saves you a lot of time. From the airport there’s a really convenient fast train that goes directly to the central station (Google Maps) and vice versa for 40,000 IDR, with fairly frequent departures (you’ll find the schedules on Google Maps). Alternatively, there are DAMRI buses to other destinations in the city.

Orangutan in Bukit Lawang.

Bukit Lawang

Bukit Lawang is known for being one of the few places in the world where you can see orangutans in the wild with near certainty. It all started with a reintroduction program that officially ended way back in 2001. Unfortunately, in practice, the locals never stopped taking care of the orangutans, who know perfectly well that they can easily find food near the camps where tourists sleep. I saw with my own eyes the orangutans coming to take the leftovers from the various meals. Like it or not, the local economy depends entirely on their presence; the incentives are pretty clear. Basically, even though they’re “free” and live in their natural habitat, these are for all intents and purposes semi-wild orangutans. Right? Wrong? Indifferent? Your call.

Bat Cave.

What to do and see in Bukit Lawang

Treks inside Gunung Leuser National Park to see the orangutans are clearly the number one activity in Bukit Lawang. That said, with a bit of luck you might see other animals too. For example, besides about ten orangutans, I saw lots of Thomas’s leaf monkeys, macaques and two gibbons.

There are options to suit pretty much every taste (here you’ll find a few standard programs), from day hikes, where you basically go back to sleep in the comfort of your guesthouse, to treks of two, three or more days, during which you spend the night inside the park in very spartan facilities that are, all things considered, not that bad if you have a minimum of adaptability.

I opted for the three-day, two-night tour that ends with rafting, for which almost all agencies officially charge 170€ per person, but you can pay much less. With two other guys I met at the guesthouse (Jhony’s Backpacker), we paid about 130€ per person by haggling on the spot. They call it trekking, but in reality you don’t walk much; on the contrary, you walk very little. All in all, it was a pleasant experience. If you’re looking for something more authentic, you’d probably do better to look elsewhere or organize something tailor-made: the guides are willing to go as deep into the forest as you like, for weeks, which also gives you a better chance of seeing shyer animals, like the Sumatran tiger 🙂 I was told that, if you want, you can also organize the crossing to Ketambe.

Orangutan mother and baby eating leftovers.

There’s not much else to do in Bukit Lawang. I went to the Bat Cave (Google Maps), but it’s nothing special, and on top of that they charge 25,000 IDR to get in. Instead, you could stop by the local market (Google Maps) or simply go for a swim with the locals near the pedestrian bridge that crosses the village (Google Maps).

N.B. I recommend withdrawing cash in Medan before arriving in Bukit Lawang, because ATMs here are unreliable, if not nonexistent.

Where to stay in Bukit Lawang?

I stayed at Jhony’s Backpacker before and after the trek: basic accommodation, but extremely cheap and, all things considered, not bad at all. I also did the trek with Jhony. A bit of a character, but honest and kind.

How to get to Bukit Lawang?

To and from Medan, during the day there are frequent connections on orange minivans that leave from this spot (Google Maps). They’re parked along the road in front of the bakery and are easy to spot. Foreigners are asked 50,000 IDR. Don’t go to Terminal Pinang Baris Medan (Google Maps) as some people suggest, because the local mafia will try to make you pay even more. The last stop is the Bukit Lawang terminal (Google Maps). Alternatively, there are the shared taxis, as described earlier.

Thomas’s leaf monkey.

Tangkahan and Ketambe

Tangkahan and Ketambe are two less touristy alternatives for anyone who wants to avoid the “crowds” of Bukit Lawang and potentially have a more ethical experience. I didn’t visit either of them, so take what follows with a grain of salt. Ketambe is in some ways Bukit Lawang’s twin village: here too the Indonesian government had carried out an orangutan reintroduction program and built a whole series of accommodation facilities, effectively making it another official entrance to Gunung Leuser National Park. However, since it’s much less convenient to reach than Bukit Lawang, over the years it has grown much less as a tourist destination and, from what I was told, precisely because of this it retains a much more authentic atmosphere. If you’re interested, you’ll find detailed information on how to reach Ketambe by public transport on this page.

Tangkahan, on the other hand, is a short distance from Bukit Lawang: with the recent improvement of the road, the two villages are just over an hour apart by car. Here, besides the chance to see orangutans, there’s also a conservation project dedicated to elephants. Unfortunately, until not too long ago, it was possible to ride the elephants. Things seem to have changed recently, but some reviews are still not positive. In any case, you can simply organize a few jungle treks or visit some waterfalls, all in a setting that should be less touristy than Bukit Lawang. On this page you’ll find loads of information.

Berastagi

Berastagi, in the heart of the Karo Highlands and surrounded by active volcanoes, offers evocative landscapes and a pleasant climate all year round, and it’s a great stop to break up the journey to Lake Toba. Even before arriving in Berastagi, if you have a driver or are traveling by scooter, you could consider stopping at the Air Terjun Teroh-Teroh Petar waterfall (Google Maps).

What to do and see in Berastagi

There’s not much to see in the center of Berastagi. I recommend stopping by the small museum dedicated to the culture of the Karo Batak, the indigenous people of the highlands (Google Maps); it’s nothing special, but entry costs only 8000 IDR, and while you’re there, stop by the nearby market (Google Maps). Just outside town is Taman Alam Lumbini (Google Maps), a Buddhist temple that the guesthouse staff had recommended to me, but I didn’t go.

Karo Batak cultural museum.

Mount Sibayak

The Sibayak volcano is a nice and not at all demanding hike that you can easily do from Berastagi (All Trails). Entry for foreigners costs 20,000 IDR, to be paid at the start of the main trail (Google Maps). I went up on a Sunday morning and there was a crazy number of people in tents. Medan isn’t too far away, and for locals it’s a very popular hike to do on the weekend.

In any case, it’s absolutely not necessary to join a guided tour. If anything, if you want to go up to see the sunrise, as many people decide to do, depending on where you’re staying you may need to arrange transportation (during the day there are minibuses leaving from the center). I walked straight from the guesthouse. Once you reach the crater, instead of going back down the same trail, you could descend toward the village where the hot springs are (All Trails).

Mount Sibayak with Mount Sinabung in the background.

Anyway, in the “hot springs village” there are lots of places; somewhat at random, I ended up at Mitra Sibayak Hot Spring (Google Maps). Entry costs 15,000 IDR and, all in all, I recommend it. After a well-deserved hot spring soak, I walked back to the guesthouse, but if you want there are the usual local minibuses going back and forth toward Berastagi for 7000 IDR (Google Maps).

The hot springs village seen from above.

Mount Sinabung

Gunung Sinabung has been particularly active in recent years and is therefore closed to the public; climbing to the crater is currently prohibited. If things change in the future, I’m sure it could be a great hike. Ask locally for the most up-to-date information. Trail details can be found here (All Trails).

Where to stay in Berastagi?

I stayed at Sibayak Multinational Rest House and I highly recommend it. The room I stayed in has seen better days, but the outdoor garden, the family’s hospitality and the excellent food at honest prices make it a great option. What’s more, for anyone willing to walk a bit more, as mentioned, you can do the hike to the volcano starting right from the guesthouse.

How to get to Berastagi?

From Bukit Lawang I took the “tourist bus”, in other words the shared taxi, paying 200,000 IDR. To my knowledge, public transportation isn’t a viable option, at least not without first returning to Medan, where you’ll find direct buses to Berastagi.

Lake Toba.

Lake Toba

Lake Toba is the largest volcanic lake in the world, measuring about 100 kilometers in length and 30 kilometers in width. The main tourist area is Tuk-Tuk village located on Samosir Island in the middle of the lake, the epicenter of Batak culture. The shores of Lake Toba offer a peaceful retreat for travelers seeking a few days of relaxation.

What to do and see at Lake Toba

As with Berastagi, before you even get to Lake Toba, if you have a driver or are traveling by scooter, you could consider stopping at the Air Terjun Sipiso Piso waterfall (Google Maps), which at 120 meters high is among the highest waterfalls in the country, and Bukit Gajah Bobok (Google Maps) where there’s a nice viewpoint.

In Tuk-Tuk, getting around on foot without necessarily renting a scooter, you could visit Huta Siallagan (Google Maps), where you can visit traditional Batak houses; entry costs 10,000 IDR. Along the way you’ll also find the Museum Sipalakka (Google Maps); entry costs 10,000 IDR and you can see lots of stone works.

Batak Museum.

On the other side of Tuk-Tuk, instead, there’s Tomok Market (Google Maps), where they mostly sell souvenirs, Desa Wisata Tomok Parsaoran (Google Maps) where you can see traditional Batak houses (as I was passing by they were playing traditional music), Old Tomb Of King Sidabutar (Google Maps) where there are the tombs of several noble Batak families, and finally the Batak Museum (Google Maps). In my opinion none of this is outstanding, especially without any context. Perhaps by paying for a guide the visit can potentially be more interesting.

If you decide to rent a scooter or perhaps join an organized tour, you can venture further afield and drop by the Parhallow viewpoint and coffee shop (Google Maps), Pengrajin Ulos Samosir (Google Maps) which is another traditional village, the Bukit Holbung Samosir viewpoint (Google Maps) and the Efrata Waterfall (Google Maps). Personally, I didn’t go to any of these places, as I preferred to laze by the lake and only visit the points of interest around Tuk-Tuk.

Tombs of noble Batak families.

Where to stay at Lake Toba?

I slept at Laster Jony’s, nice rooms by the lake in a very quiet area. Friendly staff and a great restaurant at honest prices. If it’s in season, the avocado shake is an absolute must-try! Recommended.

How to get to Lake Toba?

If you arrive by shared taxi (I paid 200,000 IDR from Berastagi), you’ll be dropped off at the Parapat pier (Google Maps), where there are frequent connections to Tuk-Tuk during the day for 25,000 IDR. Once on the boat you’ll be asked where you’re staying and, based on that, you’ll be told when to get off. In fact, the boat makes multiple stops and you’ll be dropped off at the pier closest to your accommodation. If you arrive by scooter you can take the bridge on the other side of the island or the local ferry (Google Maps).

To and from Medan the shared taxi costs 150,000 IDR. Some guesthouses charge more; you can easily have them book just the ferry for you and then pay for the transfer directly to Bagus Taxi (Google Maps). The daily transfer leaves around 10:00, so you have to take the first boat from Tuk-Tuk to Parapat. I’m sure there are also local buses covering the route, but I don’t have any information about them. You can also have them book you on the bus that covers the Medan – Bukittinggi/Padang route and stops in Parapat, but it’s like 16 hours of travel (or more)!

If you plan to continue your trip toward Padang, I recommend going back to Medan and then flying to Padang, unless you’re on a tight budget.

Lake Toba.

Padang

Padang is the capital of West Sumatra province and the main gateway for anyone wanting to reach the Mentawai Islands. The city doesn’t have much to offer the average traveler, but you can still keep yourself busy for half a day before or after visiting the islands.

What to do and see in Padang

The area along the river (Google Maps) isn’t too bad: there’s a small Buddhist temple, Kelenteng See Hin Kiong (Google Maps), and if you feel like walking, you can cross the river and head up to Siti Nurbaya Hills (Google Maps).

I was told that Pantai Air Manis (Google Maps) offers good surf and could be a nice beach to spend a few hours at, but unfortunately, being so close to the city, it seems to have serious cleanliness issues.

If you get the chance, I also recommend stopping by the Masjid Raya Syekh Ahmad Khatib Al-Minangkabawi Sumatera Barat Mosque (Google Maps). In the evening, when it’s lit up, it isn’t bad at all! If you’re staying far away, consider whether it’s worth the trip to reach it.

Masjid Raya Syekh Ahmad Khatib Al-Minangkabawi Sumatera Barat Mosque.

Where to stay in Padang?

Kokos Hostel Padang City is the number one hostel in town. Great facilities, extremely friendly staff and an excellent location, a stone’s throw from the port where the fast boats to the Mentawai Islands leave. Maybe a bit expensive for Indonesia, but definitely a great option. I also spent a night at Mandeh Guesthouse Padang, a very local guesthouse on the outskirts of the city. Kind and hospitable family. Excellent value for money.

How to get to Padang?

By plane, every day there are several direct flights to Medan in the north and Jakarta in the south; if booked in advance, they’re really cheap. From the airport, there are bus connections to the center, “Kota Padang”, for 30,000 IDR; I don’t know exactly where they drop you off, because I personally shared a Grab. There’s also a train roughly every two hours that costs only 10,000 IDR; the schedules are on Google Maps. In my opinion, considering how affordable flights are, the only sensible overland connections are to Bukittinggi and the Harau Valley, which I’ll cover later. If you want, there are direct buses to both Medan in the north and Jakarta in the south, but in both cases it’s more than 20 hours on the bus!

Head of the household where we stayed in Mentawai.

Mentawai Islands

The Mentawai Islands, off the west coast of Sumatra in Indonesia, are especially famous among surfers; in fact, these islands offer some of the best breaks in the world.

But there’s more than just waves here: lush rainforests, pristine beaches and, above all, the unique culture of the indigenous Mentawai people make these islands fascinating for any traveler.

What to do and see in the Mentawai Islands

I’m not a surfer, so I don’t have much information on that front; I just know that surfing here isn’t cheap: the permit alone to enter the water with a surfboard costs 2,000,000 IDR (valid for 15 days), and in any case it seems you have to rely on surf camps/resorts, not exactly at hostel prices. I suggest you do some research.

Shamanic ritual.

Mentawai tribe tour

Instead, I joined a “Mentawai Tribe Tour” on the island of Siberut (Google Maps). The Mentawai are semi-nomadic hunter-gatherers, many of whom still live very traditional lives. These tours usually last three nights and four days, which lines up with the fast boat schedule (connections to Padang aren’t daily).

I didn’t do much research beforehand: at the time, I was traveling with other people and, for once, I just went with the group. I paid 3.5 million for the four-day, three-night tour (including the round-trip ticket from Padang). The tour was organized by a certain Agus, who didn’t strike me as a genuine person at all; on the contrary, Gejeng (our guide) seemed like a wonderful person. He’s trying to create his own network of clients without having to go through Agus. You can contact him directly on Instagram.

As for the tour itself, usually you spend all three nights in the jungle, hosted by local families, and during the day you do things like fishing, trekking in the forest, collecting grubs, preparing sago (a local plant used to make flour), and more. We ended up spending only one night in the jungle because there was an important ceremony in the village that we wanted to attend. Dancing, singing, animal sacrifices, and even some exorcisms: in short, an experience that was nothing short of unique! Basically, the tours are extremely customizable.

Preparation of sago.

Other islands in the surrounding area

You can also combine a visit to Siberut Island with nearby Sipura (Google Maps). The two islands are connected by boat at least a couple of times a week, so there’s no need to return to Padang. In the northern part of the island is the harbor (Google Maps) and the main settlement, which has several guesthouses. I didn’t go, but apparently the beaches are pristine and mass tourism hasn’t arrived yet. Here’s an article.

Lastly, for anyone wanting to get further off the beaten path, the Hinako archipelago north of the Mentawai is another interesting option. Nias Island (Google Maps) has an airport, which makes it much more accessible. Here’s an article. From there, you can reach even more remote islands like Asu. Here’s an article.

How to get to the Mentawai Islands?

The “Mentawai Fast Ferry” departs from this point in Padang (Google Maps), and after a short stop further north, it arrives at the village where the tours begin (here’s the location: Google Maps). It takes about 3-6 hours depending on sea conditions. If you want, there’s also the slow ferry, which however takes about 12 hours. On this page you’ll find an article that seems to be updated frequently, but I strongly recommend confirming everything once you’re there.

The river we went up during the tour.

Harau Valley

The Harau Valley, often called the “Yosemite” of Indonesia, with its lush rice paddies, imposing vertical rock walls and waterfalls, offers a taste of rural Indonesia and landscapes that are nothing short of unique.

Harau Valley.

What to do and see in the Harau Valley

I highly recommend renting a scooter and visiting the various waterfalls in the area while taking in the beautiful landscape that characterizes the valley. If it hasn’t rained recently, you can start with the Sarasah Tanggo waterfall (Google Maps). You can easily ride the dirt road by scooter; otherwise, I recommend parking at the dam and continuing on foot (Google Maps). Then continue to the Sarasah Donat waterfall (Google Maps) and the Sarasah Murai 7 Tingkat waterfall (Google Maps). Somewhere around here there should be the “famous” viewpoint with beautiful views over the valley; the trail is marked on Organic Maps, but apparently it’s really steep and the guys I was traveling with weren’t interested, so I didn’t go up. Finally, visit the Sarasah Bunta waterfall (Google Maps), where you can go for a swim if you like. Not far away there’s a nice viewpoint where you could go in the late afternoon (Google Maps) to end the day. Alternatively, you can join a tour; all the guesthouses can organize one.

Sarasah Murai 7 Tingkat waterfall.

If you have the time and feel like it, you could also consider heading out of the valley. We rode to a bridge that’s well known among locals (Google Maps), but honestly, I don’t think it’s worth it. Another frequently suggested destination is Kapalo Banda Taram Lake (Google Maps).

Kelok 9 Bridge.

Where to stay in the Harau Valley?

Despite what it looks like when you search on Booking, there are lots of guesthouses in the valley. I shared a bungalow with two other guys at Abdi Homestay (Google Maps) and I recommend it. A nice place surrounded by greenery, the owner is really kind and speaks excellent English, and scooter rental is cheap. Delicious dinner. You can book directly via WhatsApp; the number is on their Instagram page. Another frequently recommended place is Limpato Homestay (Google Maps).

How to get to the Harau Valley?

From Padang, direct minibuses leave frequently from this point (Google Maps). I took the Sinamar company, 4-5 hours and 30,000 IDR. You get dropped off at the junction leading to the valley, at this spot (Google Maps). From here, the motorbike taxis ask 50,000 IDR. If you’re coming from Bukittinggi, the same minibus passes through this station (Google Maps).

Sarasah Tanggo Waterfall.

Bukittinggi

Nestled in the highlands of West Sumatra, Bukittinggi is a pleasant town with a cool climate. Located roughly halfway between Padang and the Harau Valley, it makes a great intermediate stop for anyone who wants to break up the journey.

Clock Square.

What to do and see in Bukittinggi

Honestly, although it’s pleasant, the town is nothing extraordinary, and if you’re short on time I recommend spending your time elsewhere. In town you can still visit the iconic clock square and its surroundings, the Jam Gadang Bukittinggi (Google Maps), and the Japanese Tunnel (Google Maps), a system of tunnels that served as a bunker during the Japanese occupation; entry costs 25,000 IDR, but there’s no information of any kind. You do, however, get a nice view over the Sianok Valley (Google Maps) with the Singgalang volcano in the background (it was closed because it was too active, but normally you can hike to the summit, AllTrails). From the tunnel exit, if you like, you could walk along the “little Great Wall of China” to this viewpoint (Google Maps); the trail is clearly marked on Organic Maps. I didn’t go to Fort De Kock (Google Maps) because it’s closed on Fridays; the ticket also includes access to the Taman Margasatwa dan Budaya Kinantan zoo (Google Maps), which, however, has terrible reviews.

Finally, you could rent a scooter and visit some attractions outside town, such as the Istano Basa Pagaruyung palace (Google Maps) and the two museums Rumah Tuo Kampai nan Panjang (Google Maps) and Bustanul Arifin PDIKM (Google Maps).

Japanese Tunnels.

Where to stay in Bukittinggi?

I shared an actual apartment with two other guys, so I wouldn’t know what else to recommend. However, Kareem Syariah Hostel Bukittinggi seems to offer cheap, clean rooms in a great location.

How to get to Bukittinggi?

From the Harau Valley there are buses roughly every half hour with the Sarah company (Google Maps); they ask 20,000 IDR. To and from Padang, you can take the minibus I mentioned earlier and simply get off once you arrive in Bukittinggi (Google Maps). Finally, there are direct connections from Padang airport; I don’t know how frequent the departures are; they cost 25,000 IDR.

Sianok Valley.

JAVA

With over 140 million inhabitants, Java isn’t only the most densely populated island in Indonesia, but also one of the most densely populated areas in the world. Partly because of its proximity to Bali, the island is fairly touristy, especially the eastern part, where the famous Bromo and Ijen volcanoes are, but also the beautiful Yogyakarta with its famous temples.

Jakarta

With its more than ten million inhabitants, Jakarta is the country’s economic capital and technically still the political capital of Indonesia, but the government is moving the capital to a new city called Nusantara, located in East Kalimantan on the island of Borneo.

Monas.

What to do and see in Jakarta

If you’re short on time in Indonesia, honestly, I really think you’d do better to spend your time elsewhere. As in every big city, there are free walking tours, which are an interesting way to spend a few hours; I did one with GuruWalk and it wasn’t bad at all.

If you prefer to go DIY, in the city’s historic center there are several colonial-style buildings, especially around Taman Fatahillah Square (Google Maps), where, if you like, you can visit the Jakarta History Museum (Google Maps); entry is really cheap. I also recommend the nearby Bank Indonesia Museum (Google Maps) and, not far away, a Buddhist temple (Google Maps).

Moving further south, you can visit Monas (Google Maps), the famous obelisk commemorating Indonesian independence from the Dutch; you can even go up to the top, but you often have to wait in line. From here you can continue to the Istiqlal Mosque (Google Maps), one of the largest in the world, open to visitors every day except Friday, and, on the other side of the street, Jakarta Cathedral (Google Maps). I’m not a fan of modern and contemporary art, but in case you are, the MACAN museum (Google Maps) is often recommended.

Finally, in the south of the city, around the Pancasila Fire Monument TMII (Google Maps), there’s a huge park with lots of museums; I didn’t go, but a couple of locals had recommended it to me.

Jakarta Cathedral.

Where to stay in Jakarta?

I spent a few nights at Wonderloft Hostel Kota Tua, a great budget hostel in the heart of Jakarta’s historic center. If you want to spend a day or two in the city, I recommend it.

How to get to Jakarta?

Given its economic importance, Jakarta has direct flights to countless airports in Indonesia. The airport is connected to the city center by both train and bus; the best option depends on where you plan to stay.

Overland too, there are direct bus connections to dozens and dozens of cities, including Denpasar in Bali and Padang in Sumatra (about 24 hours of travel!). There are also convenient train connections to many cities on the island of Java.

Taman Fatahillah Square.

Bogor

Bogor, about an hour south of Jakarta, famous for its cooler climate and its botanical gardens, can be a day trip if you’re staying in the capital, or a destination in its own right.

What to do and see in Bogor

The iconic Bogor Botanical Garden (Google Maps), one of the oldest in Southeast Asia, is a must-see. Inside it there’s also the Presidential Palace, which, however, can’t be visited (Google Maps). Although it’s undoubtedly a pleasant place to spend a few hours, don’t expect anything extraordinary; entry costs 25,000 IDR.

Other than that, there’s not much else to do in the city; in fact, I only spent one night there and then went to Bandung. If, on the other hand, you’re willing to rent a scooter and visit the surroundings of Bogor, you could go to the Hindu temple Pura Parahyangan Agung Jagatkarta (Google Maps), the Air Terjun Curug Nangka waterfall (Google Maps) or climb to the top of Mt Salak (Google Maps) (All Trails).

Presidential Palace.

Where to stay in Bogor?

I stayed at Rion Hostel Bogor, a great hostel, good location, friendly and helpful staff. Highly recommended. Another option is GIO Guesthouse Bogor.

How to get to Bogor?

From Jakarta there are very frequent train connections; the schedules are also on Google Maps. Between Jakarta airport and the Damri Terminal (Google Maps) there are also direct bus connections, in both directions, for anyone who wants to avoid going through the capital. Finally, there are convenient direct connections to Bandung by bus from Terminal Baranangsiang (Google Maps) and by minivan from Lintas Shuttle BTM (Google Maps) and Jackal Holidays Luxury Shuttle (Google Maps), among others; the latter can also be booked on Traveloka.

Cimaja and Batukaras (Surfing in Java)

As I already said above, I don’t surf, but Pantai Cimaja (Google Maps) and Pantai Batukaras (Google Maps) are often recommended by travelers, especially the latter. Java too has many other interesting destinations for surf lovers; you’ll find some ideas on this page.

Tea plantations in Bandung.

Bandung

After Jakarta and Surabaya, Bandung is the third-largest city on the island of Java. Thanks to its elevation of around 700–800 meters above sea level, the city enjoys a cooler and more pleasant climate than many other Indonesian cities.

What to do and see in Bandung

Bandung isn’t especially popular with travelers, who usually head straight from Jakarta to Yogyakarta (or vice versa), but if you have time, there are a few interesting attractions. I recommend stopping by Jalan Braga (Google Maps), a pleasant street to stroll along, especially in the evening when it’s partly closed to traffic. You could also visit the Masjid Raya Bandung mosque (Google Maps); I didn’t go, but I was told that on weekends you’re allowed to climb to the top of the minaret.

Tangkuban Perahu Volcano

Tangkuban Perahu Volcano (Google Maps) lies north of the city and is easily reached by scooter. I rented mine from Vectoren Rental Motor (Google Maps). The road goes all the way to the rim of the crater, from where you get spectacular views. Unfortunately, entry for foreigners is really “expensive”: 200,000 IDR during the week and as much as 300,000 IDR on the weekend (ten times what locals pay!). On top of that, if you want to visit the smaller crater, where the hot springs are (Google Maps), they force you to take a guide; the price is apparently negotiable, but they seem to ask at least 100,000 IDR for what is a short trail, and I refused on the spot. Honestly, if you’re on a tight budget, I’d probably do something else, but even if you can afford it, since we’re not talking about outrageous amounts anyway, this eagerness to squeeze as much money as possible out of foreigners is something I’d personally try not to support.

Before or after visiting the volcano, you could stop at Taman Hutan Raya Ir. H. Djuanda (Google Maps), a park on the outskirts of the city with a series of trails; entry costs 55,000 IDR for foreigners. Nothing special.

Tangkuban Perahu Volcano.

White Crater

Kawah Putih, or the White Crater (Google Maps), lies south of the city instead. Here too it’s a volcano offering a landscape that’s nothing short of unique. You have to leave your vehicle at the parking lot (Google Maps) and take the shuttles that run back and forth to the crater itself. Entry including the shuttle costs 110,000 IDR. The ticket includes access to the crater itself, where there’s a very striking lake, but if you want to reach the viewpoints, like Sunan Ibu (Google Maps), you have to pay extra.

I also recommend stopping by the nearby tea plantations (Google Maps). At the spot I just linked, there’s easy access and you can take a short walk among the plantations. You can end the day at one of the hot springs in the area; I went to Onsen Ranca Upas (Google Maps) and, all in all, I recommend it.

White crater.

Where to stay in Bandung?

I stayed at Nindya Biodistrict Hotel Bandung, a clean and affordable capsule hotel with friendly staff. There’s also a great coworking space. The location isn’t very central, but I don’t think that’s a problem. Recommended.

How to get to Bandung?

For travel to or from Jakarta or Yogyakarta, I recommend taking the train: it’s far more comfortable than the bus and much faster. You can book on Traveloka.

Mount Merapi and Mount Merbabu, Yogyakarta.

Yogyakarta

This large city of about half a million people is by far the most touristy destination on the entire island of Java, thanks largely to its proximity to two of the most important and impressive temples in the whole country. That said, the city itself has its own charm, and if you have an extra day, it’s definitely worth a visit.

What to do and see in Yogyakarta

As one of the oldest cities in Indonesia, Yogyakarta boasts a large number of historic buildings. The most important is probably the Sultan’s Palace (Google Maps), which may not leave you speechless, but you should still visit it. Inside, you’ll also find a small exhibition, and at certain times you can watch music and dance performances.

Not far from there, I also recommend visiting the Kampung Wisata Taman Sari (Google Maps), another palace complex that once belonged to the sultan. One of its pools was used by his harem, and from a nearby tower, he could… make his choice. These two places are probably the main points of interest in the city.

Kampung Wisata Taman Sari.

I also visited the Vredeburg Museum (Google Maps), which is mainly dedicated to the history of Indonesian independence. It’s nothing special, but the entrance fee is low, and it can be a nice way to escape the midday sun. In the evening, you might enjoy a stroll along Malioboro Street (Google Maps).

Ask around once you’re there, but at least during my last visit, the Merapi Volcano (Google Maps) was particularly active—at night, you could clearly see the lava glowing. I shared a Grab with a few people from the hostel to this spot (Google Maps), but the view wasn’t great. A friend of mine, though, went to this other location (Google Maps) and had better luck. In any case, I think it also depends a lot on the current activity level of the volcano, and apparently, the shape of the crater keeps changing.

Merapi Volcano.

Borobudur Temple

I’ve seen many temples in my life, but this one is undoubtedly one of the most impressive. It’s no surprise that it’s the largest Buddhist temple in the world (Google Maps). Unfortunately, it’s no longer possible to watch the sunrise from the top of the temple, as it was in the past, and access during the day is limited. There are two types of tickets: the “Temple Ground Ticket” and the “Temple Structure Ticket.” The first costs 387,500 IDR and basically only allows you to walk around the temple, while the second costs 455,000 IDR and lets you climb to the top, which I absolutely recommend. However, only a limited number of these tickets are available, and you have to book a time slot. During the high season, tickets can sell out weeks in advance. You can find all the relevant info on the official website, where you can also buy the tickets.

Photo with local students.

I was lucky enough to visit Borobudur back when it was still possible to watch the sunrise from the top—it was a wonderful experience. But honestly, if you’re traveling on a tight budget and the “Temple Structure Tickets” are sold out, I’d say it’s a bit hard to justify the cost of entry.

To reach the site, which is only 40 km from Yogyakarta, you can take a local minibus from the Jombor terminal (Google Maps), which leaves frequently, or, even better, rent a scooter.

Sunrise from the top of Borobudur.

Prambanan Temple

Due to its proximity to Borobudur, this Hindu temple complex is often overshadowed—but it’s still absolutely extraordinary and an absolute must-see (Google Maps).

Originally, the complex included 240 temples, but unfortunately, over the years, many were destroyed, leaving only rubble. On top of that, the recent 2006 earthquake caused even more destruction. It’s still undoubtedly an extraordinary work. Here too, I think a couple of hours is more than enough to explore it, so I recommend visiting both temples on the same day, starting with Borobudur, which is definitely more popular and crowded during the day. Here too, you can buy your ticket on the official website for 400,000 IDR. The site is just 20 km from Yogyakarta and can easily be reached by local bus, which leaves from the train station (Google Maps), or by scooter.

To wrap up, there’s a third temple in the area, not as popular or imposing, that many people recommend but that I personally didn’t visit: Ratu Boko (Google Maps).

Prambanan Temple.

Nepal Van Java and Mount Sumbing

Nepal Van Java (Google Maps), located on the slopes of Mount Sumbing (Google Maps), was one of the highlights of my last trip to Indonesia. This picturesque village is still relatively unknown among foreign tourists, and in my opinion, it’s absolutely worth visiting, especially if combined with the climb up the Sumbing volcano, even though the views from the village alone are already breathtaking. As far as I know, there’s no public transportation to the village. Along with a few other travelers, I preferred to rent a scooter directly at our guesthouse in Yogyakarta, and to break up the trip, we stopped at the Air Terjun Kedung Kayang waterfall (Google Maps), which isn’t bad at all and, all in all, I recommend it.

Air Terjun Kedung Kayang.

You won’t find many places to stay online, but there are guesthouses. We rented a couple of rooms at Homestay Omah Biru (Google Maps). Two other recommended guesthouses are Homestay Dua Saudara (Google Maps) and Bintang Homestay (Google Maps). To book, you can send a WhatsApp message to the number listed on Google Maps.

At 3:00 in the morning, as we were making our way up the volcano, two local tourists pointed out to us that, technically, you need to register at this point (Google Maps) to climb to the top of the volcano. By then it was too late for us, and we couldn’t do it, but in any case, no one checked.

Depending on where you’re staying, you can save yourself some of the climb and park at the trailhead (Google Maps). Be careful, though, because the village roads are extremely steep: riding uphill with two people on an automatic scooter is tough if not impossible, and going downhill without engine braking requires good brakes. In any case, we left around 3:00 in the morning and reached Pos 3 Sunrise Point (Google Maps) for the sunrise around 5:30.

Our plan was to reach the actual summit, but after sunrise the clouds rolled in, so at Pos 4 (Google Maps) we turned around and headed back. The trail is really easy to follow and, all in all, well maintained; in any case, you can find the GPS coordinates on All Trails. If you decide to go all the way to the actual summit, keep in mind that it’s over 1,500 meters of elevation gain, so not exactly a walk in the park! Many locals seem to do the hike over two days, spending the night in tents, and some pay motorcycle taxis (50,000 – 100,000 IDR) to cover the first part of the trail up to Pos 1 (Google Maps). Doing it with your own vehicle isn’t allowed, and I wouldn’t recommend it anyway: seeing is believing!

Sunrise at Pos 3.

Mount Merbabu

The hike to Mount Merbabu (Google Maps), starting from Yogyakarta, is a relatively popular trek. Foreigners are asked 350,000 IDR, which I find really unreasonable. In our case, there were no slots available on the day we had chosen, so I did something else. In fact, to do the hike, you first need to register on the official website and then choose one of several trails: Suwanting (All Trails), Merbabu (All Trails), Wekas (All Trails), and Thekelan (All Trails).

In all cases, we’re talking about a considerable elevation gain, so it’s not to be taken lightly. Also, if you decide to do the hike as a day trip from Yogyakarta, I recommend leaving early in the morning.

More things to do around Yogyakarta

I’ll preface this by saying that I didn’t visit any of the following attractions, but a local friend had recommended them to me as a possible day trip from Yogyakarta. You could start your day exploring the Goa Pindul Caves (Google Maps) and Goa Jomblang (Google Maps), then head to the beach—either Pantai Pok Tunggal (Google Maps) or Pantai Sadranan (Google Maps). Finally, before heading back to Yogyakarta, you could stop at HeHa Sky View (Google Maps), which offers great panoramic views over the city.

Where to stay in Yogyakarta?

During my last visit to the city, I stayed at Ndalem Diajeng: great value for money, and the owner is an incredibly kind and helpful person. Recommended. If you’re looking for something more upscale, Ostic House is a beautiful hostel in the main tourist area of Yogyakarta: many of the beds in the dorms (which have air conditioning) are single beds rather than bunks, and there’s an equipped kitchen and a gym. For those looking for something luxurious, Java Villas has nice rooms at competitive prices.

How to get to Yogyakarta?

Depending on where you are, you could consider domestic flights; if booked in advance, they can be really cheap. Overland, from Jakarta, Bandung, or Surabaya (the hub for Mount Bromo), I highly recommend traveling by train, which you can book on Traveloka. For travel to and from Karimunjawa, you’ll find detailed instructions below.

Nepal Van Java.

Karimunjawa

This 27-island archipelago offers pristine white-sand beaches, vibrant coral reefs, and a relaxed atmosphere. It’s a great destination for anyone looking to unplug for a few days, and it’s still relatively off the beaten track for international travelers.

N.B. The entire archipelago is part of a national park, so when you arrive, you’ll have to pay 150,000 IDR during the week and 225,000 on weekends.

Pantai Alano.

What to do and see in Karimunjawa

On the main island, where the ferry arrives, there are literally dozens of beaches. Obviously I didn’t see them all, but my favorites are Pantai Bobby (Google Maps) and Pantai Alano (Google Maps). They ask 5,000 IDR to get in, but it’s absolutely worth it, since, unlike many other beaches in Indonesia, these are clean and well maintained. A little further north, you could go to Pantai Barakuda (Google Maps), from where you can arrange boats to nearby Pulau Cilik (Google Maps) for some great snorkeling. As the name suggests, Sunset Beach (Google Maps) is popular at sunset. The beach itself isn’t anything special, and it’s pretty crowded. The evening I was there, there was a DJ set, and in any case there’s no shortage of bars and restaurants. If you’re looking for a livelier atmosphere, this might be a good option for you.

Pantai Bobby.

Island hopping tour

This tour is offered pretty much everywhere on the island and has a fairly standard itinerary: two snorkeling sessions and lunch on an island, in my case Pulau Cemara Besar (Google Maps). A great way to spend the day. Most accommodations and agencies ask 250,000 IDR, but I paid 200,000 IDR by booking at CAFE WALAWARI (Google Maps), which, among many other things, also rents out scooters at really good prices.

Pulau Cemara Besar.

Where to stay in Karimunjawa?

I stayed at KALINDA HOMEY, which has both private rooms and a small dorm. A very cozy place, lovely staff, delicious breakfast, and a great location. Highly recommended. If for any reason you need to spend the night in Jepara, before or after visiting the island, there are plenty of guesthouses a short distance from the port. I shared a room at Samudra Hotel.

How to get to Karimunjawa?

If you’re coming from Yogyakarta, I recommend taking the minivan offered by DayTrans (Google Maps) and selecting Jepara Ferry Terminal (Google Maps) as your destination. You can book online through their official website, Traveloka, or go directly to their office. Once you arrive in Jepara, you have two options: the fast boat with Express Bahari, which costs 200,000 IDR and which you can book yourself using the app (the boat often sells out in high season, so it’s best to book in advance), or the slow ferry, which costs 100,000 IDR and which you can book online on this site. At the time of writing this guide, you needed a local bank account to make the payment. Another option is to take the ferry from Semarang (Google Maps), which travels overnight and so saves you the cost of accommodation. Semarang also has an airport with direct flights to Bali and Jakarta. Whichever option you choose, connections to the island aren’t daily, so try to plan your travel. As for flights to the island, as far as I know, they haven’t resumed since Covid.

If you’re coming from the east instead, there are direct buses from Bungurasih Terminal in Surabaya (Google Maps) to the Jepara terminal (Google Maps). I traveled the opposite way: there was a bus at 8:30, 165,000 IDR including lunch, about 8 hours of travel. At least at the time of writing this guide, you couldn’t book online. I recommend asking locally.

Mount Bromo.

N.B. The following destinations, Malang, Bromo, Tumpak Sewu, and Ijen, offer different ways of getting around. If you’re short on time or don’t want to drive or use public transportation, it’s absolutely worth considering a tour, because the prices are very competitive. Basically, rather than a tour, it’s a shared taxi that can take you to Bromo, Tumpak Sewu, and Ijen, and end the trip at the port to catch the direct ferry to Bali. Alternatively, you could do just Bromo and Ijen, or just Bromo and Tumpak Sewu; there are plenty of options, and in fact, especially if you’re traveling in a group, you can create a tailor-made itinerary. Obviously, all of this can also be arranged in the opposite direction, coming from Bali.

The alternative I recommend for those who want a bit more independence is to rent a scooter in Malang (I rented mine at Rental Motor Malang FALSUD) or Probolinggo and do the Malang, Bromo, and Tumpak Sewu loop over several days. The distances are short, and the roads are in good condition. Finally, you could decide to get around by public transportation; you’ll find more information in the sections on the individual destinations.

Malang

Malang isn’t a particularly popular destination among travelers, but it can be a great base for exploring the area by scooter or visiting Tumpak Sewu on a day trip.

What to do and see in Malang

As mentioned, there isn’t much to do in the city itself, with the only real attraction being Kampung Warna Warni Jodipan, or “rainbow village” (Google Maps). This is a nice project to redevelop and revitalize a very poor neighborhood of the city, where the houses, roofs, and alleys have been painted in bright colors, transforming the area into a tourist attraction. In my opinion, it’s nothing exceptional, but it’s definitely a nice way to spend an hour or so. Admission costs 10,000 IDR.

Malang is also an excellent base for arranging a hike to Semeru volcano (Google Maps), the highest on the island of Java at 3,676 m. It was particularly active during my last visit, so you couldn’t climb it, but a local guy I met in Yogyakarta, who over the years has climbed all of Java’s volcanoes, described it to me as his favorite climb. The hike is typically completed in 2-3 days (All Trails).

Rainbow village.

Where to stay in Malang?

I spent one night at Condro Wulan Hostel, a very nice hostel with lovely staff, located in a residential area outside the center. The location isn’t very convenient, but I’d still recommend it. A Grab ride from downtown isn’t expensive at all. Tour prices for Bromo, Tumpak Sewu, and Ijen are very competitive.

How to get to Malang?

Malang is well connected by train to the main destinations in the surrounding area—Yogyakarta, Surabaya, Probolinggo (for Bromo), and Banyuwangi (for Ijen). You can book online via Traveloka. If you’re arriving from Karimunjawa at the Bungurasih Terminal in Surabaya (Google Maps), express buses leave frequently from platform 7 for 40,000 IDR.

Mount Bromo

This is undoubtedly the most famous of the volcanoes on the island of Java and one of my absolute favorite views from all my travels, so much so that I’ve been there twice over the years, something I normally tend to avoid. Enjoy this surreal landscape as much as possible!

Sunrise over Mount Bromo.

What to do and see at Mount Bromo

Before you even get to Mount Bromo, if you’re traveling by scooter or have a private driver, you might consider stopping at Air Terjun Madakaripura waterfall (Google Maps). It’s a really impressive waterfall that, unfortunately, a bit like the rest of the area, seems to have been taken over by the “local mafia.” On my last visit, the waterfall was even officially closed due to heavy rains damaging the road, but the locals decided you could still visit if you paid for a mandatory guide and taxi service. Read recent reviews, but if things haven’t changed, as beautiful as the waterfall is, I’d avoid supporting this kind of behavior.

Once you arrive at Cemoro Lawang (where the entrance to the national park is located and the starting point for the trails to the main viewpoints), you can finally enjoy the incredible view of Mount Bromo and Mount Semeru in the background. Numerous tours are offered in the village, but you don’t need to join any of them to fully enjoy this amazing place.

While extremely popular and often overcrowded, sunrise on Mt. Bromo from the Seruni viewpoint is practically a must (Google Maps). If you’re up for a bit more walking, I personally recommend climbing up to King Kong Hill (Google Maps).

Sunrise from King Kong Hill.

Horse or Jeep transportation is offered in the village (up to a certain point, a short distance from Seruni), but honestly, it’s absolutely not necessary. Just set off early enough in the morning, and you can easily reach the viewpoint on foot. All the viewpoints are free and don’t require you to pay the national park entrance fee!

After seeing the sunrise, all the organized tours then head to the actual crater of Mount Bromo. This makes it quite crowded, so if you decide to spend another night in Cemoro Lawang, my advice is to visit the crater in the afternoon. In any case, you’ll have to pay the park entrance fee (220,000 IDR, rising to 320,000 IDR on weekends and local holidays).

You can easily walk to the crater of the volcano (Google Maps), which takes about 45 minutes from the village. If you want, you can also climb to the top of the nearby Batok volcano (Google Maps). If you want to avoid paying entrance fees, there are several unofficial trails into the park, like the one at this spot (Google Maps) and this spot (Google Maps).

Crater of Mount Bromo.

Where to stay in Cemoro Lawang (Mount Bromo)?

On my last visit, I shared a room at Gigafa homestay, which wasn’t much, but in the middle of August, there wasn’t much choice. These guesthouses, slightly outside of Cemoro Lawang, tend to be cheaper. If you have your own vehicle, they’re a good option. If you’re traveling by public transportation, I recommend sleeping in Cemoro Lawang itself.

How to get to Cemoro Lawang (Mount Bromo)?

Reaching the volcano, and more specifically Cemoro Lawang, is quite easy. If you’re traveling by scooter, the road is in excellent condition. The only advice I’d give is to get a scooter with a big engine, especially if you’re sharing it. The road to the village is really steep in some places. To and from Tumpak Sewu waterfall, you can drive through the national park on what’s called the “sea of sand.” However, it’s a sandy road that requires good driving skills. I’ve personally seen a lot of people end up on the ground. Also, unless you decide to leave Cemoro Lawang the same day you visit the national park, you’ll need to pay admission again because the road goes through it. Essentially, consider going the “long way around.”

For public transportation, the town that serves as the crossroads is Probolinggo. Whether you’ve arrived from the west or east, you’ll need to take the first train to Probolinggo (Google Maps). You can make reservations on Traveloka. Once you arrive at the train station, take a Grab to the Bayuangga bus station (Google Maps). From Surabaya Airport, there are frequent public bus connections directly to Bungurasih Bus Station.

Please note: Once you arrive in Probolinggo, either by bus or train, the “problems” begin. If you arrive by bus from Surabaya or Banyuwangi (Ijen volcano), only get off once you’ve arrived at the Bayuangga bus station. Be wary of anyone who tells you to get off at any other point, and that includes the driver. When you arrive at the bus station (but also at the train station), you’ll literally be mobbed by people who may be friendly at first, but if you don’t do as they say, they may in some cases become aggressive. Just ignore them right away, and be prepared for what is likely to be an unpleasant situation.

Anyway, minivans heading to Cemoro Lawang leave from just outside the terminal on the right (Google Maps) once they reach 10-15 passengers. Again, ignore anyone who tries to help you or tells you that the accommodations in Cemoro Lawang are all sold out, or whatever other crap they come up with. Don’t give your money in advance to anyone and only pay once the bus/minivan has left. If the minivan stops on the way at bogus national park checkpoints, don’t pull out a penny—the real entrance is at the end of the village. The only fee you have to pay is 10,000 IDR for village conservation. If you’re traveling in a group or you’re not on a tight budget, consider sharing a Grab to the village to avoid any hassle.

The road crossing the “sea of sand.”

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall

The iconic Tumpak Sewu waterfall (Google Maps) is undoubtedly among the most famous in Indonesia. It can get extremely crowded during the middle hours of the day, especially on weekends, but it’s still worth a visit because it’s really impressive. If you enter from this side (Google Maps), they ask 50,000 IDR to access the viewing terrace; from there, you can go down to the actual waterfall, where they ask another 50,000 IDR. Once at the bottom, I also recommend walking to the Goa Tetes waterfall (Google Maps), where you’ll find a path leading up through the waterfall to a small cave. If you enter directly from the opposite side, so without going through the viewing terrace, you should theoretically only pay the 50,000 IDR for entry (Google Maps).

Although many people, including yours truly (who had a train to catch), visit only Tumpak Sewu, there are at least four other noteworthy waterfalls nearby that are worth visiting if you have time: Coban Ciblungan (Google Maps), Air Terjun Kabut Pelangi (Google Maps), Air Terjun Kapas Biru (Google Maps), and Coban Sriti (Google Maps).

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall.

Where to stay at the Tumpak Sewu waterfall?

If you have time, and especially if you don’t just want to visit Tumpak Sewu, I think it’s worth spending a night nearby—maybe even two depending on what time you arrive. In any case, I shared a room at D’corner Homestay. They also have a dorm, though. The place is nothing exceptional, but the staff is very nice. All in all, I recommend it. It’s about a 20-minute walk to the waterfall and close to a good, cheap warung.

How to get to the Tumpak Sewu waterfall?

As mentioned above, if you travel by scooter to and from Bromo, you can drive through the national park on what’s called the “sea of sand.” However, it’s a sandy road that requires good driving skills. I’ve personally seen lots of people end up on the ground. For most people, I think it’s better to take the “long way around.”

By public transportation, I think it’s always best to go through Malang. From Bayangan Gadang Terminal (Google Maps), take the direct bus to Lumajang and get off along the road where the waterfall is. If you plan to visit the waterfall on a day trip, try to leave early in the morning, as the last bus back to Malang should be around 15:00.

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall.

Banyuwangi and Bondowoso (Kawah Ijen)

Kawah Ijen, commonly referred to simply as “Ijen,” is a volcano perhaps not as photogenic as its “neighbor” Mt. Bromo but undoubtedly spectacular—and definitely worth a visit as part of an itinerary on the island of Java. It’s an active volcano with a sulfur mine inside its crater, which is largely filled with water and forms an acid lake of a really unusual light blue.

De Djawatan Forest.

Kawah Ijen

The hike to the volcano is typically done at night, so that you first see the “blue fire,” caused by burning sulfur escaping at the bottom of the crater, and then climb back up to the top to watch the sunrise: an unforgettable experience.

The only downside of the whole experience is seeing the poor local miners carrying huge loads of sulfur up and down the volcano while having to dodge the many tourists crowding the trail.

Banyuwangi is the main gateway for visiting the Ijen volcano, given its proximity to Bali and its access to the convenient rail network that connects the city to the rest of the island. If you want, though, it can also be visited from the west via Bondowoso. In any case, the most practical and cheapest way to visit the volcano’s crater is to rely on a tour, starting from either town. Public transportation is nonexistent.

Whether you decide to use Banyuwangi or Bondowoso as your starting point makes little difference; it should be purely a logistical choice. If, for example, you’re coming from the west and continuing east (Bali), you could choose Bondowoso and arrange the transfer to Banyuwangi through the tour, and from there take the ferry to Bali. In fact, you could also simply go straight to Banyuwangi and organize everything from there. I’d choose this option, if only because you can then travel comfortably by train.

Sunrise on Mount Ijen.

Whatever you choose, the tour to the volcano can cost you anywhere between 500,000 IDR and 750,000 IDR; the price typically includes transportation, guide, park entrance, and gas mask (the crater is, for all intents and purposes, a sulfur mine, and the gas emissions are extremely harmful). If you organize the tour from Banyuwangi, a visit to two waterfalls along the way is sometimes included too.

The trail to the crater is about 3 km long and fairly steep, and if you’re fit, you can cover the distance in under an hour. In any case, remember to bring at least a sweatshirt for when you reach the top and a flashlight in case the tour doesn’t provide one. If you want to save a bit, you could arrange just the transportation: the guide is absolutely not necessary.

Lastly, if you decide to stay in Banyuwangi, you could consider visiting De Djawatan Forest (Google Maps). It has some truly fascinating centuries-old trees. Nothing exceptional, but if you have a few hours before or after climbing the volcano, it’s definitely worth stopping by. Entry costs 17,000 IDR. I shared a Grab there with a friend, and then we had the driver take us straight to the pier to catch the ferry to Bali.

De Djawatan Forest.

Where to stay in Banyuwangi and Bondowoso?

Banyuwangi: I shared a room at Good Feeling Ijen Banyuwangi: clean and cheap rooms, kind and helpful staff. Ijen Backpacker and Ninap hostel look like two great options if you’re looking for a dorm.

Bondowoso: There are far fewer places to stay here; Ijen Bondowoso Home Stay doesn’t look that bad.

How to get to Banyuwangi and Bondowoso?

Banyuwangi: There are direct buses to and from Probolinggo, but, as you read earlier, the Probolinggo bus terminal is simply a nightmare. If you want to avoid pointless arguments, take the train: it’s more comfortable, it costs less, and you don’t have to deal with the scammers I talked about earlier. You can book online on Traveloka.

To and from Bali, there are frequent connections from Mengwi Bus Terminal in Denpasar (Google Maps) to Pelabuhan Gilimanuk Bus Terminal (Google Maps). You can book via WhatsApp with Sehati Bus (you’ll find numbers and schedules on their Instagram page); I paid 50,000 IDR. From Gilimanuk Port (Google Maps), the ferry goes back and forth frequently, day and night, to Ketapang Port (Google Maps), just outside Banyuwangi. It costs 15,000 IDR, and you can book online on this site. At least at the time of writing this guide, you needed a local bank account to make the payment. Near the port, there are people who can do it for you for a small fee.

Bondowoso: To and from Probolinggo, the only option available is the bus. If you’re coming from Bali and want to continue on to Bromo, after climbing to the crater you can arrange the tour so that you’re dropped off in Bondowoso. From there, you can take the bus to Probolinggo or simply go back to Banyuwangi and take the train.

The load the poor miners carry on their shoulders.

BALI

Bali is by far the most popular and touristy island in the entire Indonesian archipelago. I was in Bali for the first time in 2016 and for the last time in 2024, and to say the island has changed a lot over the years would be an understatement. Of course, it all depends on what you’re looking for, but as far as I’m concerned, South Bali is now a place “to avoid”: Indonesia and Bali itself have much better to offer.

N.B. Given its compact size, Bali really lends itself to being explored by scooter. If you’re traveling light enough, I highly recommend renting a scooter as soon as you arrive and keeping it for your entire stay.

During my last visit, I arrived in Denpasar from Java and rented a scooter with Bali Rental Motor BRM Rent Bike In Bali (Google Maps), and you can take it to Lombok too. I paid 1 million for 17 days of rental. That said, there are literally dozens of rental places in South Bali where you can rent a scooter; depending on where you’re staying, a simple search on Google Maps should give you several options.

Mount Agung.

South Bali (Denpasar, Kuta, Seminyak, Legian, and Sanur)

South Bali is the main tourist area of the island and of the entire country. As mentioned earlier, I’m not exactly a fan of this area. That said, it’s just as true that if you’re looking for convenience, services, Western restaurants, nightlife, and so on, it might be right for you.

What to do and see in South Bali (Denpasar, Kuta, Seminyak, Legian, and Sanur)

For convenience, in this section you’ll find information on all the destinations just mentioned, which are part of what could be called the “Denpasar metropolitan area.” What used to be small, clearly separate villages have in fact become indistinguishable from one another as a result of tourism-driven development.

Kuta

Kuta (Google Maps) is probably the most Westernized destination on the island. Here you can expect countless bars and clubs where you can get wasted for a few euros, the big chains like McDonald’s, Starbucks, and Hard Rock, but also a beach that isn’t bad at all, where you can surf. The area is definitely overcrowded, especially in high season.

Seminyak and Legian

Seminyak (Google Maps), just north of Kuta, is another popular spot in the Denpasar metropolitan area—and probably the most upscale. It has lots of luxury accommodations and, because of that, slightly higher prices. The beach is nice, less crowded, and full of bars and kiosks, but unlike Kuta, it isn’t suitable for surfing. Between Seminyak and Kuta lies Legian (Google Maps), which, for all intents and purposes, can be considered a middle ground between the two.

Uluwatu Temple.

Canggu

Canggu (Google Maps), about ten kilometers further north, used to be by far the least crowded and least touristy spot on the west coast around Denpasar, but in recent years it has seen a real boom, as it’s particularly popular with digital nomads. Here you can expect the classic laptop-in-every-café vibe, vegan restaurants, coworking spaces, and yoga studios on every corner.

The beach and the surf aren’t bad at all, and the nightlife doesn’t fall far short of the beaches further south either.

Sanur

Sanur (Google Maps), unlike all the places around Denpasar I’ve just mentioned, sits on the east coast and is one of Bali’s oldest resort areas. It’s considered a destination for seniors and families. The atmosphere is far more relaxed than on the west coast, and the beach is nice and much less crowded, though not suitable for surfing; it does have good conditions for kitesurfing. Sanur is also the ideal base for excursions to the islands of Nusa Penida, Lembongan, and Ceningan (boats leave from Sanur Harbor), as well as many other destinations in the east of the island, in case you want to do only day trips without changing base.

Tanah Lot at sunset.

Attractions in South Bali

To wrap up this section on what I like to call the Denpasar metropolitan area, any of the destinations just described can be used as a base to explore the attractions around South Bali. Many people organize day trips to the whole rest of the island without ever leaving this area, but I don’t think that makes much sense.

Tanah Lot (Google Maps), one of the island’s most iconic temples and particularly striking (and popular) at sunset, is located on the coast about 10 km north of Canggu. Taman Ayun (Google Maps), on the other hand, is about 25 km north of Denpasar and is usually less crowded. I recommend renting a scooter or getting around by taxi and visiting the latter in the afternoon before heading to Tanah Lot for sunset. Depending on where you’re staying, you could also stop by Tegenungan Waterfall (Google Maps).

The Bukit Peninsula, south of Denpasar, is particularly famous for Uluwatu Temple (Google Maps), undoubtedly one of the most spectacular on the island: perched on top of a cliff dropping sheer into the sea, it’s really scenic and definitely worth a stop. I recommend stopping by Suluban Beach (Google Maps), a small beach you reach by going down some stairs; it’s not particularly good for swimming, but it’s tucked in between the cliffs and it’s really nice. On top of the cliff, there are also lots of bars and venues where you can watch the surfers or simply enjoy the sunset. Delpi Cafe is particularly nice. The area is called “Blue Point.” Other beaches on the peninsula that are definitely worth it are Balangan Beach, Bingin Beach and Padang Padang.

Taman Ayun Temple.

Where to stay in South Bali (Denpasar, Kuta, Seminyak, Legian, Canggu, and Sanur)?

There are literally thousands of places to stay in this part of Bali, but if you’re not interested in nightlife and you’re just looking for a quiet location that’s convenient both for reaching the airport and for catching the speedboats to the Nusa and Gili islands, I can recommend Suwardika Homestay & Dormitory. It’s a genuine homestay inside a traditional Balinese house, complete with its own little temple. The family is really kind and hospitable. Other places where I’ve stayed myself, sharing a room, and that I can recommend are Nakula Familiar Inn in Denpasar, Kampoeng Saya in Seminyak, and New Mekar Jaya Hotel in Kuta.

How to get to South Bali (Denpasar, Kuta, Seminyak, Legian, and Sanur)?

For getting to and from Bali’s airport, if you’re traveling light, there’s a super handy pedestrian entrance (Google Maps) where you can catch a motorbike taxi or get dropped off for peanuts compared to the prices they ask inside the airport. It’s literally a 5-minute walk from the terminal exit. Otherwise, booking a transfer with Klook is usually cheaper than a regular taxi, and there’s a sort of official lounge where you can wait with the Klook staff, who can help you contact the driver if you need to. Public transportation to and from the airport is practically nonexistent.

Traditional dance and music performance.

Ubud

Made famous by the book Eat, Pray, Love, the small town of Ubud may appear to visitors as a single urban sprawl, but it’s actually made up of as many as 14 different villages, which, given the huge expansion driven by tourism, are now hard to tell apart. A bit like South Bali, in my opinion, the authentic atmosphere left a long time ago and has made way for hordes of tourists, congested roads, and souvenir shops. That said, Ubud is still a great base for exploring the many points of interest in the surrounding area.

Pura Tirta Empul Temple.

What to do and see in Ubud

When people talk about Ubud, and its center in particular, they mean the area where you’ll find the central market (Google Maps), now turned into a souvenir market, and the Ubud Palace (Google Maps). Nearby, there are numerous temples worth visiting, including Taman Saraswati Temple (Google Maps) and Pura Gunung Lebah (Google Maps), where, if you want, you can do a short walk that, weather permitting, offers views of Mount Agung (Google Maps).

Obviously, a visit to Ubud can’t be considered complete without a walk through the famous Monkey Forest (Google Maps): a forest/sanctuary where dozens of monkeys roam freely among the trees and some ruins. Although it’s extremely touristy, it’s not that bad. What’s more, during my visit there were some nice traditional dance and music performances. Entry costs 100,000 IDR; avoid bringing food with you, as the monkeys would definitely try to steal it, often aggressively.

Monkey Forest.

Other temples that take a bit more travel but can easily be visited on a day trip from Ubud are Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave) (Google Maps), Gunung Kawi Tampaksiring (Google Maps), Pura Kehen (Google Maps), and Pura Tirta Empul (Google Maps). The latter is the temple where you can take part in the traditional water “purification” ritual.

If you set off early in the morning for the tour I just described, you could add a visit to the famous Tegalalang Rice Terraces (Google Maps) as your first stop, so as to avoid the crowds of tourists, the Tukad Cepung Waterfall (Google Maps), which is a few kilometers from Pura Kehen, and the traditional village of Desa Wisata Penglipuran (Google Maps). Other waterfalls near Ubud worth visiting are Tibumana (Google Maps) and Kanto Lampo (Google Maps).

Tegalalang Rice Terraces.

Where to stay in Ubud?

During my last visit, I shared a room at Bulan Bali Guest House. Nothing exceptional, but if you’re looking for something cheap, it’s not that bad.

How to get to Ubud?

If you’re not getting around by scooter, Grab, Gojek, and Indrive are always a good option and, all in all, cheap if shared. Perama offers shuttles at fair prices. Finally, you could take a bemo (local transport) from Batubulan Terminal (Google Maps).

Central Bali (Munduk and Bedugul)

Bedugul is the name used for the area in the center of the island made up of several villages, including the village of Bedugul itself and nearby Munduk. The entire area extends around three craters of volcanic origin.

The rice fields of Jatiluwih.

What to do and see in Central Bali (Munduk and Bedugul)

Even before reaching Bedugul from South Bali or Ubud, there are a couple of interesting stops, like the Jatiluwih Rice Terraces (Google Maps), which are undoubtedly among the most beautiful and extensive on the whole island. Along the main road, at this spot (Google Maps), they ask 50,000 IDR to access the village and the rice terraces. If you want to avoid paying, you can park at the Pura Luhur Besikalung temple (Google Maps) and walk up. Not far away are the Air Panas Angseri hot springs (Google Maps). There are also two nice waterfalls along the way: Air Terjun Leke Leke (Google Maps) and Air Terjun Nungnung (Google Maps).

In Bedugul itself, the number one attraction is undoubtedly the Ulun Danu Beratan Temple (Google Maps), on the shores of Lake Beratan, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful, iconic, and, unfortunately, crowded temples on the island. During my last visit to Bali, I rode past on my scooter and the parking lot was full of buses; I don’t dare imagine what it was like inside. Honestly, I’m not convinced it’s worth going. The same goes for the popular Balinese gate, the “Bali Handara Gate” (Google Maps), not far away, where you literally have to stand in line (and pay) to take a photo. Meh.

Air Terjun Melanting.

Although it’s not exactly in Bedugul, Sekumpul Waterfall (Google Maps) is relatively accessible from here. It’s one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Bali, but unfortunately they now force you to take a guide for 150,000 IDR per person, plus another 20,000 IDR for the entrance. In the same area, there are two other waterfalls: Hidden Waterfall (Google Maps) and Fiji (Google Maps); the trails are marked on Organic Maps. There’s absolutely no need for a guide. Personally, I’d avoid supporting these people.

In Munduk, on the other hand, it’s much less crowded, and you could literally spend whole days going from one waterfall to the next. I recommend starting with Air Terjun Munduk (Google Maps) and then walking down to the other waterfalls; the trails and the various waterfalls, like Golden Valley Waterfalls (Google Maps), are marked on Organic Maps. If you like, you could go all the way down to Air Terjun Melanting (Google Maps). Other waterfalls not too far from Munduk are the impressive Banyumala Twin Falls (Google Maps).

To wrap up, you could explore the rice terraces (Google Maps) at sunset and have dinner at the iconic Warung Heaven (Google Maps).

Air Terjun Munduk.

Where to stay in Munduk?

During my last visit, I shared a room at Taman Ayu Homestay. Great value for money and a beautiful view of the valley right from the room. Kind and helpful staff.

How to get to Munduk?

If you’re not getting around by scooter, Grab, Gojek, and Indrive are always a good option. Perama also runs shuttle services at fair prices.

Munduk rice terraces.

Lovina

Lovina, on the north coast of the island, is one of my favorite destinations in Bali: the area is relatively untouristy and the atmosphere really relaxed; the beach isn’t one of the best, but it’s not that bad either.

What to do and see in Lovina

Even before reaching Lovina, along the road that goes down to Lovina, you could stop at the Gitgit (Google Maps) and Aling-Aling (Google Maps) waterfalls.

The waters off Lovina are frequented by dolphins, which are spotted practically every day. That’s why there’s a huge statue dedicated to these beautiful animals in the middle of the main square and, unsurprisingly, every tourist business in town offers trips to see them.

From Lovina, you can also arrange diving and snorkeling tours to the nearby Taman Nasional Bali Barat national park: a really colorful seabed and excellent conditions. However, considering that it’s a national park, I was really disappointed by the amount of trash on the beach.

Another popular attraction around Lovina, just for a change, is its many waterfalls. If you’ve already been to Gitgit and Aling-Aling, you could visit Sing Sing (Google Maps) and Blahmantung (Google Maps), then stop at Brahma Vihara Arama (Google Maps), the largest Buddhist temple on the island. Not far away are the Banjar hot springs (Google Maps).

How to get to Lovina?

If you’re not getting around by scooter, Grab, Gojek, and Indrive are always a good option. Perama also runs shuttle services at fair prices.

Buy fruit from the nice lady in the square!

East Bali (Padang Bai, Kintamani, Amed, and Amlapura)

The eastern part of the island is by far my favorite. Far from the chaos of South Bali, it offers not only a quieter atmosphere and lower prices but also lots of interesting attractions.

What to do and see in East Bali (Padang Bai, Kintamani, Amed, and Amlapura)

We’re talking about a very large area, with many attractions located between one destination and the next. I’ll try to follow some kind of logic, but then I’ll leave it to you to plan your route based on your interests.

Padang Bai

Padang Bai is a small port town visited mainly because boats to the Gili Islands and the island of Lombok leave from its port. Even though for many it’s simply a place to pass through, if you have time, it’s worth spending a couple of days here. The main beach, where the port is, isn’t nice at all, but you just need to move to the next bay to the east or west to find great beaches. Blue Lagoon (Google Maps) to the east isn’t bad and offers great snorkeling, while Bias Tugel (Google Maps) to the west is a beautiful white-sand beach that’s good for swimming. Finally, there are a couple of temples you could visit: Pura Luhur Silayukti (Google Maps), while outside town, Pura Goa Lawah (Google Maps) has a cave full of bats that makes it a bit more interesting, but it’s nothing exceptional.

Bias Tugel Beach.

Kintamani (Mount Batur)

Even before reaching Kintamani, heading north from Padang Bai, you could stop at Gembleng Waterfall (Google Maps), home to the iconic natural infinity pool. The waterfall itself is nothing special, but in my opinion it’s perhaps the best managed on the island: no mafia or mandatory guide, just a simple donation at the entrance, and a nice restaurant with a great view and good food. A little further along the road, you can stop at the Sidemen rice fields (Google Maps). Finally, I think it’s worth visiting Besakih Temple. In my opinion, the most impressive on the island.

With that out of the way, Kintamani is a mountainous area in northeast Bali, particularly famous for Mount Batur and the lake of the same name at its foot. Between the two lies the small village of Toya Bungkah, which is home to most of the area’s tourist facilities and serves as the starting point for excursions, in particular the popular sunrise climb up Mount Batur (Google Maps).

Although many people prefer to join an organized tour, contrary to what the locals want you to believe, it’s not illegal to climb to the summit without a guide. There are lots of different trails (All Trails) (All Trails) (All Trails). Unfortunately, many recent comments seem to indicate that the local mafia has taken control and forces people to pay exorbitant amounts for a useless guide. I’d avoid supporting this attitude. In any case, expect lots of people for the sunrise, especially in high season. If you don’t feel like making the effort, there are several bars/restaurants that offer fantastic views of the volcano and conveniently open at dawn, like AKASA Specialty Coffee (Google Maps), or you can simply stop along the road.

The climb up Mount Batur is by far the main attraction in the area, but since you’re around here, you could also visit Pura Ulun Danu Batur, one of the most important temples in Bali.

Sunrise from Mount Batur.

Amed

Amed and its surroundings were one of the last regions of Bali to get the economic boost of tourism, and it’s still one of the least touristy areas. Even during my last visit, in the middle of August, it didn’t seem all that crowded.

In any case, the reason the vast majority of tourists go to Amed is the great diving and snorkeling sites.

The most popular one is the Liberty wreck at Tulamben, a U.S. Navy ship sunk in 1942 by a Japanese submarine. I didn’t dive in Amed myself, but a couple of friends who are keen divers told me it’s absolutely worth it. If you want to snorkel, you can do it on your own at Pantai Jemeluk (Google Maps) and Lipah (Google Maps).

Liberty Wreck.

Amed can also be used as a base for visiting the nearby Pura Penataran Agung Lempuyang Temple (Google Maps), which has become particularly popular on Instagram thanks to the famous “Gates of Heaven” with Mount Agung in the background. I’ve always refused to visit it, so I’m not speaking from personal experience, but a friend told me that in high season people stand in line for hours just to take the iconic photo. I did go, however, to the nearby Lahangan Sweet (Google Maps), where, among the various platforms, they’ve built a replica of the “Gates of Heaven.” Entry costs 50,000 IDR, there’s a fantastic view of Mount Agung, and it’s surprisingly uncrowded, even at the end of August.

Speaking of Mount Agung, if you like, you can climb to the top, which at 3,148 meters is the highest point on the island. The shortest trail (All Trails), which still involves 1,300 meters of elevation gain, starts from the Pura Pasar Agung temple (Google Maps). I was planning to climb it during my last visit to Bali, but for a number of reasons I had to change my plans, so I’m not speaking from personal experience, but a friend described it to me as a beautiful climb. Unfortunately, according to the latest reviews, the local mafia asks 200,000 IDR to climb even without a guide, which is completely illegal. As you’ve probably figured out by now, I’d avoid supporting this attitude (read the temple’s reviews on Google Maps to get an idea of the kind of people you’re dealing with).

Sunset at Lahangan Sweet.

Amlapura

This region halfway between Amed and Padang Bai offers more than a few interesting attractions. First of all, I recommend going to see the sunrise at Bukit Cinta (Google Maps): the view of the rice fields with Mount Agung in the background is very nice.

Sunrise at Bukit Cinta.

On the other hand, I strongly advise against Tirta Gangga (Google Maps), where they ask 70,000 IDR; I really don’t understand how people can recommend it. There’s literally nothing to do. Just hordes of tourists taking photos. I haven’t been there, but Taman Ujung (Google Maps) looks much more interesting.

Tirta Gangga.

Finally, I recommend stopping by the traditional village of Bugbug (Google Maps); at this spot (Google Maps), there’s a nice little road through the rice fields. From the checkpoint where you pay the entrance fee (Google Maps), there’s a great view of the village from above. Virgin Beach (Google Maps) itself isn’t bad at all either.

Bugbug traditional village.

How to get around East Bali (Padang Bai, Kintamani, Amed, and Amlapura)?

Here, even more than in other parts of Bali, I think it’s really worth having your own vehicle. That said, Grab, Gojek, and Indrive are always a good option for getting from one destination to the next. Perama offers shuttles at fair prices.

Where to stay in East Bali (Padang Bai, Kintamani, Amed, and Amlapura)?

The only place I really feel I can recommend is LinkeesHome Bungaya: great value for money, and the owner is simply a lovely person. Other than that, this part of the island gives you lots of freedom: you can literally book on the same day, depending on how you feel, and even in the middle of August I never had trouble finding something.

Virgin Beach.

Nusa Islands (Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Ceningan, and Nusa Penida)

These are the three islands off Sanur, southeast of Bali. Also known as the Nusa Islands, despite being so close to Bali (they’re only 15 km away), for many, many years they were far less touristy and crowded. Although things have changed quite a bit recently, I think they can still be an interesting destination for anyone looking to escape the “chaos” of South Bali.

Blue Lagoon.

All three islands offer excellent opportunities for diving, but also for snorkeling. There are literally dozens of dive shops. I’ve never dived here, but over the years a couple of friends recommended Scuba Junkie Penida and Mambo Dive Center to me. Visibility is better during the dry season, but you can see manta rays and sunfish very often all year round. I did a snorkeling tour with the hostel on Nusa Penida and managed to see a couple of manta rays.

Devil’s Tears.

Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan

The island of Lembongan, the closest to the coast of Bali, is also the most developed. Then there’s Ceningan, which is connected to Lembongan by a bridge, so you can really think of them as “one single island”, fairly compact, that you can easily get around in a day. Honestly, there aren’t any great attractions on the two islands. In my opinion, the nicest beach is Dream Beach (Google Maps), and next to the beach there’s also the official access to Devil’s Tears (Google Maps), a stretch of coastline where the waves crash against the cliffs, creating spectacular sprays of water. It’s also a nice spot to watch the sunset. The locals ask 25,000 IDR. If you want to avoid paying, you can go through Sandy Bay Beach (Google Maps). You’ll find another similar spot on Nusa Ceningan here (Google Maps), and I also recommend stopping by the nearby Blue Lagoon (Google Maps). Finally, if you’ve never seen a mangrove forest, at Mangrove Point (Google Maps) you can rent a kayak and explore on your own or join a guided tour.

Mangrove Point.

Nusa Penida

Nusa Penida is, in my opinion, the most beautiful of the three islands and by far the largest. I think it’s worth spending at least a couple of days here. Obviously it depends a lot on where you decide to stay, but if you rent a scooter, you could start the day by visiting Goa Giri Putri Temple (Google Maps), which, being inside a cave, is really unusual compared to the others. After that, head to Atuh Beach (Google Maps) and Diamond Beach (Google Maps) before the day-trip crowds arrive from Bali. They ask 35,000 IDR for entry, plus another 5000 IDR for parking.

Diamond Beach.

Without even meaning to, I went in from here, Atuh Beach Free Entrance (Google Maps), without paying, but as you can read in the reviews, the locals hanging around the parking lot aren’t exactly friendly. The official entrance is Diamond and Atuh Car Park (Google Maps). From here you can continue to the Thousand Islands Viewpoint (Google Maps) and Suwehan Beach (Google Maps), the latter really nice and, at least during my visit, practically deserted. It takes a while to get down, but if you’re looking for some peace, it’s absolutely worth it. Another option is Tembeling Beach and Forest (Google Maps), but I haven’t been there, so I won’t comment. I recommend ending the day at a nice viewpoint to watch the sunset. I went to Banah Cliff Point (Google Maps): the road is in pretty bad shape, but the view of the coast is excellent. Another option not far away is Saren Cliff Point (Google Maps).

Suwehan Beach.

On the second day, you could start with the iconic Kelingking Beach (Google Maps). Here too, the earlier you arrive, the better. I got there practically at dawn and really enjoyed it. The beach is spectacular, although not particularly suitable for swimming. I found the steep descent a lot of fun, but for some it could be a real nightmare. Unfortunately, they’re building an elevator, so I imagine the overcrowding can only get worse.

Kelingking Beach.

After Kelingking Beach, you could head to Angel’s Billabong (Google Maps), where there’s a really beautiful natural pool (at low tide), and the nearby Broken Beach (Google Maps), where a natural arch separating a small lagoon from the ocean creates a unique landscape. Unfortunately, here too there are tons of people. If you walk along the coast toward Korawa Beach (Google Maps), you might see manta rays right from the cliffs. Either way, it’s a pleasant walk.

Angel’s Billabong.

If you have some time left, you could go to Crystal Bay (Google Maps), from where I recommend walking to Pandan Beach (Google Maps) or Puyung Beach (Google Maps). These two beaches are much less crowded. The trail is easy to follow and also marked on Organic Maps.

Crystal Bay.

How to get to the Nusa Islands (Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Ceningan, and Nusa Penida)?

There are several daily connections from Sanur port (Google Maps), both to Lembongan, at Mushroom Bay Beach (Google Maps), and to Nusa Penida. The latter has two arrival ports: Penida Ferry Port (Google Maps) and Buyuk Harbour (Google Maps), from where there are also direct connections to the Gili Islands.

There are also connections between the islands, with boats shuttling between Yellow Bridge Port (Google Maps) and the area where the snorkeling tours leave from (Google Maps). Most of the companies operating these speedboats can be booked independently on 12Go.

Where to stay in Nusa Penida?

The hostel where I stayed on Nusa Lembongan seems to have closed, so I don’t have any recommendation. If you’re looking for a cheap and not-at-all-bad hostel on Nusa Penida, I recommend Hostel Bukit Sangcure. Great view, really kind and helpful staff (they even pick you up at the port), and they offer great prices for snorkeling and speedboats.

Pandan Beach.

Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.

LOMBOK

Lombok, the island that sits to the right of Bali when you look at the map, is less developed and still relatively little visited by tourists, with the exception of the three small islands to its northwest, the Gili Islands. Bali and Lombok are connected by speedboats and ferries practically day and night, but if you’re willing to spend a bit more, it’s also worth considering flights from Denpasar to Lombok International Airport, which, if booked in advance, aren’t all that expensive.

Gili Air.

N.B. As with Bali, I think it’s worth considering renting a scooter to explore Lombok. Depending on your itinerary, if, for example, you plan to go back to Bali, you could rent one directly in Bali and take the ferry at Padang Bai (Google Maps). You can check the schedules and book online on this site. At the time of writing this guide, you needed a local bank account to make the payment. In any case, near the port there are lots of agencies that can book for you in exchange for a small fee.

If, on the other hand, you plan to continue your trip to Flores, for example, or in any case don’t intend to return to Bali, you could rent the scooter directly at the port when you arrive. There are rental places both in Lembar (Google Maps), where the ferry arrives, and in Bangsal (Google Maps), where the speedboats that also stop at the Gili Islands arrive.

Gili Islands

This group of 3 small islands northwest of Lombok is considered the number one attraction of the island of Lombok, and they’re often visited as part of a trip to Bali. Don’t expect an unspoiled paradise: mass tourism arrived a long time ago. But if you’re looking for a few days at the beach, the islands aren’t all that bad.

Gili Air.

What to do and see in the Gili Islands

Each island has a different atmosphere. The main one, Gili Trawangan, is considered the “party island” and is therefore popular mostly with backpackers, while Gili Meno is the most popular with couples and families. The right compromise is probably Gili Air.

Apart from beautiful beaches, there aren’t any great attractions on the islands. I joined the classic snorkeling tour and, all in all, it wasn’t that bad, but it wasn’t exceptional either: most of the coral reef near the islands isn’t healthy at all. The best thing to do is simply relax and enjoy this little corner of paradise with a good book or a drink.

There are no motor vehicles on the islands, but given their size, that’s not a problem at all. You can easily get around on foot or rent a bicycle, which is the most common choice.

Gili Meno.

Where to stay in the Gili Islands?

I stayed on Gili Air, at Fantastic B”n”B to be precise, a good budget option a stone’s throw from the port. Kind and helpful staff.

How to get to the Gili Islands?

There are direct speedboat connections from Buyuk Harbour (Google Maps) on Nusa Penida, Mushroom Bay Beach (Google Maps) on Nusa Lembongan, Sanur port (Google Maps) and Padang Bai (Google Maps). Most of the companies operating these speedboats can be booked independently on 12Go. From the Gili Islands to Bangsal port (Google Maps) on Lombok, there are frequent departures throughout the day.

Gili Air.

Kuta Lombok

Absolutely not to be confused with Kuta in Bali, this town in the south of Lombok is the favorite beach destination among backpackers. There are some nice beaches here, but above all excellent surf, and mass tourism is still on its way. Before you even reach Kuta, along the road there’s the traditional Sasak village of Sade (Google Maps). I haven’t been there, but it could be an interesting stop if you’ve never seen anything like it.

What to do and see in Kuta Lombok

I don’t surf, but as I just said, the whole area is really popular with surfers, so I imagine the waves aren’t bad at all, and there’s certainly no shortage of surf schools. If it’s something you’re interested in, I suggest you do some research. In any case, as soon as you set foot on the beach, you’ll be offered surf lessons.

Surfers at Pantai Tanjung Aan.

Beaches in Kuta Lombok

There are dozens, if not hundreds, of beaches around Kuta Lombok, and visiting them all is unthinkable. Below are my favorites among the ones I saw.

Pantai Tanjung Aan (Google Maps): it’s a wide bay where the conditions for surfing seem pretty decent. The beach itself isn’t exceptional, but it’s fairly well equipped, with lots of bars, restaurants and loungers, if that’s what you’re looking for.

Nicole’s Monkey Beach (Google Maps): it’s by far my favorite beach. It’s a bit “remote” and can only be reached on foot via Bukit Merese (Google Maps) or, at low tide, from Tanjung Aan beach along the cliff. The small bay is sheltered, so it’s perfect for a swim. There’s only one bar/restaurant, which also rents out loungers, and the owner is extremely friendly. Moha Beach (Google Maps), not far away, is nice, especially at low tide, when a natural pool forms.

Nicole’s Monkey Beach.

Pantai Selong Belanak (Google Maps): it’s the beach famous for the water buffalo that usually pass by at sunset. I didn’t see them, but the beach is still really beautiful. They ask 10,000 IDR for parking. If you decide to go, there’s a great restaurant not far away, Warung Corner (Google Maps). Two other nearby beaches that are often recommended are Pantai Semeti (Google Maps) and Pantai Mawi (Google Maps).

Viewpoints in Kuta Lombok

There are at least three really nice viewpoints with a great view of the jagged coastline. Bukit Seger (Google Maps) is the closest to the “center”. Here they ask 10,000 IDR to get in. Bukit Merese (Google Maps), already mentioned above, is the peninsula where Nicole’s Monkey Beach is too, so you could stop to watch the sunset after spending the afternoon at the beach. Here too, if you arrive from the road, they ask 10,000 IDR for parking. Finally, there’s Bukit Pedau (Google Maps) where, at least when I was there, there was nobody asking for money. You can park at this spot (Google Maps) and walk up the trail.

Bukit Pedau.

Goa Bangkang and Goa Sumur

Goa Bangkang (Google Maps) and Goa Sumur Lombok (Google Maps) are two caves a short distance from each other, just outside Kuta Lombok. During the day, you can take a few photos here with the rays of light coming in through the openings in the cave roof. From what I understand, they ask 50,000 IDR to get in. I skipped them, but some people might find them interesting.

To wrap up, in Kuta Lombok you’ll often be offered the island hopping tour to the “Secret Gilis”, a group of islands near Lembar that aren’t all that secret. I haven’t been, so I won’t comment, but it could be a nice way to spend the day. You’ll find more information on this page.

Pantai Selong Belanak.

Where to stay in Kuta Lombok?

I stayed at Gani Homestay, which is slightly outside the main tourist area. Nothing exceptional. There are lots of cheap guesthouses around, and if you have a scooter, the area is quiet and slightly cheaper. In any case, there are really lots of options. If you decide to stay around here or you’re passing through, I recommend eating at Kiena Warung (Google Maps): cheap and delicious food.

How to get to Kuta Lombok?

If you’re not getting around by scooter, Perama offers shuttles at fair prices. On Lombok there’s a network of shared taxis that shuttle between the main tourist destinations, and any guesthouse can arrange the transfer. If you arrive at Lembar port, be prepared to deal with the “local mafia” that controls the taxis.

Pantai Selong Belanak.

Ekas

Ekas is a village on the western coast of the peninsula in southeast Lombok, but the name is often used to refer to the whole region. I haven’t been there, but it’s a destination that’s becoming more and more popular among travelers who want to get off the classic tourist circuits. It was described to me as a still wild area, where deserted beaches follow one after another. Ekas is also much closer to Pink Beach (Google Maps) than Kuta Lombok, although from what I’ve read, the beach isn’t all that pink. Here you’ll find an article with a bit more information.

Tetebatu

Tetebatu is a quiet village on the southern slopes of Mount Rinjani where, among rice fields, waterfalls and authentic local charm, you can spend a couple of peaceful days.

Rice fields in Tetebatu.

What to do and see in Tetebatu

Before getting into what to do in Tetebatu, I’d like to mention that, if you want, the village can be used as a base to climb up to the crater of Mount Rinjani. This trail is much less traveled than the ones going up from Senaru and Sembalun, so if you’re looking for a less crowded alternative, it can definitely be an option. However, I want to point out that from here you can only go up to the crater, not to the actual summit.

Trekking in Tetebatu

All the guesthouses offer “trekking tours”. Honestly, I don’t think they’re worth it, but if you prefer something more structured, they’re definitely an option. If, on the other hand, you prefer the DIY approach, at this spot (Google Maps) there’s a nice trail, also marked on Organic Maps. The route goes through the rice fields and can be combined with a visit to Big Waterfall (Google Maps) and Tetebatu Waterfall (Google Maps), roughly following the route I mapped here (All Trails) and ending with a visit to the Monkey Forest (Google Maps), where you can see the black monkeys.

Oversize load in the monkey forest.

N.B. At Big Waterfall there’s no water during the dry season, but you can still swim, and they ask 10,000 IDR. 10,000 IDR is also charged at Tetebatu Waterfall, while at the Monkey Forest it’s 30,000 IDR. There are, however, several side entrances where nobody checks. For example, I came from Ima’s Café & Orchard (Google Maps), which I recommend, and parked at this spot (Google Maps). Here there’s a collapsed bridge from where you can walk down and enter the forest. To wrap up, another waterfall that’s often recommended is Air Terjun Jeruk Manis (Google Maps). However, from what I’ve read, the “local mafia” forces you to take a guide at absurd prices. Still, read some of the recent reviews, maybe the situation has changed. I preferred to avoid it, though.

Black monkeys in the monkey forest.

Benang Stokel and Benang Kelambu waterfalls

Benang Stokel and Benang Kelambu (Google Maps) are two beautiful waterfalls, and in the same area there are two other nice waterfalls: basically, four waterfalls that aren’t bad at all, about 40 minutes from Tetebatu. Unfortunately, here too the local mafia has completely taken over. Officially, entry costs 10,000 IDR, but foreigners are diverted to the “information center”, where they ask for much more, and the price even varies depending on how many waterfalls you intend to visit. They showed me some “official” tickets. When I asked to speak to the manager and see some sort of official ID, they told me there was nobody there, so at that point I went in without paying and completely ignored them. They weren’t happy at all, but they didn’t do anything. According to some reviews, though, they can get aggressive.

Whether you decide to go or not, and whether you pay or not, you certainly don’t need a guide: the trail connecting the four waterfalls is almost always very clear and, in any case, clearly marked on Organic Maps.

Benang Kelambu.

How to get to Tetebatu?

If you’re not getting around by scooter, on Lombok there’s a network of shared taxis that shuttle between the main tourist destinations, and any guesthouse can arrange the transfer.

Where to stay in Tetebatu?

Tetebatu Sama Sama Bungalows is a really beautiful place surrounded by greenery, with a pool and breakfast included.

Benang Stokel.

Sembalun

Sembalun is another village at the foot of Mount Rinjani that offers breathtaking landscapes and an ideal base for anyone who wants to climb to the summit of the volcano.

What to do and see in Sembalun Lawang

Bukit Selong

Bukit Selong (Google Maps) is a hill with a great view of the photogenic rice terraces of Sembalun Lawang. From the parking lot (Google Maps) to the top, it’s only about ten minutes on foot. Particularly recommended at sunset. Watch out for the monkeys. They ask 10,000 IDR at the entrance. I haven’t been there, but if you want, not far away there’s a reconstruction of a small traditional village (Google Maps).

Bukit Selong.

Pergasingan Hill

Pergasingan Hill (Google Maps) offers fantastic views both over the valley carpeted with rice fields and of the imposing Mount Rinjani. You can park right at the start of the trail, at this spot (Google Maps). You’ll find the GPS track on this page (All Trails). The trail isn’t particularly long, but it’s fairly steep and relentless: at a brisk pace, it took me just under an hour to reach the area where people camp. I went up early to see the sunrise from the top (which I recommend!), so there was nobody collecting money at the entrance, but from what I understand, they normally ask locals 10,000 IDR and foreigners 25,000 IDR. Great view.

View from Pergasingan Hill.

Mount Rinjani from Sembalun Lawang

The trail that goes up Mount Rinjani from Sembalun is by far the shortest for anyone who wants to reach the actual summit of the volcano. Here you’ll find a map with the three trails that climb the north side of the volcano from Sembalun, Torean, and Senaru, which I hope makes clear what I mean.

The hike to the summit is normally done in two days: on the first day you go up to the crater, where you spend the night in a tent, and on the second day, at dawn, you climb to the actual summit and then go down to Sembalun Lawang.

After a long negotiation with Bukit Senaru Homestay, I paid 1.4 million all-inclusive (including transport to and from Senaru, where I went to meet a friend arriving from the Gili Islands). Obviously, you could organize everything directly in Sembalun Lawang. It’s a beautiful hike with breathtaking landscapes, but it absolutely mustn’t be taken lightly: even though it’s over two days, we’re still talking about around 2,800 meters of total elevation gain, with the summit at 3,726 meters (All Trails). This is absolutely not a walk in the park!

On top of that, the stretch from the crater to the summit is often exposed to strong winds, and the slippery ground, made of volcanic ash and debris, doesn’t help either. Another thing that unfortunately has to be mentioned is the pitiful state of the trail and the campsite area: the amount of garbage, toilet paper and human excrement is appalling.

Rinjani view from Pergasingan Hill.

Where to stay in Sembalun Lawang?

I stayed at Tresno Sembalun Rinjani, one of the cheapest options. The rooms are nothing exceptional, and there’s surely better, but for one night it’s more than fine. The staff is really friendly.

How to get to Sembalun Lawang?

If you’re not getting around by scooter, on Lombok there’s also a network of shared taxis that shuttle between the main tourist destinations, and any guesthouse can arrange the transfer.

Sembalun Lawang fields.

Senaru

As mentioned earlier, Senaru is another village used as a base to organize the climb up the Rinjani volcano, especially for those who only want to reach the crater and not the actual summit. At the same time, it’s a great place to spend a couple of relaxing days exploring the waterfalls in the area.

What to do and see in Senaru

Senaru doesn’t have much to offer: I’d only recommend seeing the waterfalls and organizing the trek to Mount Rinjani. If you have more time, though, you could visit the traditional village (Google Maps) and the coffee plantations, where there’s a viewpoint over Tiu Kelep waterfall (Google Maps).

Mount Rinjani crater.

Waterfalls in Senaru

A short distance from the village, there are two beautiful waterfalls that are absolutely worth visiting: Sendang Gile (Google Maps) and Tiu Kelep (Google Maps). There are two entrances: Gate 2 (Google Maps) and Gate 1 (Google Maps). Either one is fine, so choose based on where you’re staying. Entry costs 20,000 IDR.

Obviously they ask if you want a guide, but it’s absolutely not necessary. The trail is easy to follow and marked on Organic Maps. If possible, try to visit the waterfalls early in the morning, especially on weekends, when there’s lots of local tourism.

Tiu Kelep.

Mount Rinjani from Senaru

As I said earlier, Sembalun is the ideal starting point for those who want to reach the actual summit of the volcano, while Senaru is the most popular choice for those who only want to go as far as the crater. For clarity, here’s the map again with the three trails that climb the north side of the volcano.

The hike normally offered from Senaru takes three days and two nights: on the first day you climb to the crater, where you spend the night; the next day, if you want, you can climb to the top of Mount Sangkareang, or “Second Summit”, to watch the sunrise, and then you go down to the lake, where you spend the second night near the hot springs (Google Maps). On the third day you descend along the trail that leads to Torean. Although it’s less demanding than the climb to the actual summit, we’re still talking about a hike that absolutely mustn’t be taken lightly. On the first day alone, you do around 2,000 meters of elevation gain.

Base camp for the climb to the summit.

Another interesting option offered in Senaru for anyone who doesn’t have much time, or simply doesn’t feel like camping, is the day tour: you start the climb in the middle of the night so as to reach the crater for sunrise, and then you go back down to Senaru, basically doing the trail described on this page (All Trails). I talked to a guy who had paid only 500,000 IDR for this option with Bukit Senaru Homestay.

To wrap up, these are the most popular itineraries, but you can literally build whatever itinerary you prefer. There are people who do the “grand tour”, climbing to the summit from Sembalun and then descending to Senaru via the hot springs, or vice versa. Basically, lots of options for all tastes.

Mount Rinjani summit.

Where to stay in Senaru?

As I mentioned, I stayed at Bukit Senaru Homestay: modest room, but not bad at all. The Rinjani tours are offered at very competitive prices.

How to get to Senaru?

If you’re on the Gili Islands, once you arrive at Bangsal port (Google Maps), you should usually be able to find a shared taxi or maybe even a minivan headed to Senaru, but be prepared for some hard bargaining; it’s probably better to have the guesthouse organize the transfer. Alternatively, you could rent a scooter to get around Lombok and return it when you go back to Bali or before taking the boat to Flores. From any other destination, I think it’s best to have them book you one of the famous shared taxis.

Mount Rinjani crater.

Senggigi

Senggigi refers to the area north of Mataram, which also includes the village of the same name. This is by far the most commercial and developed area of Lombok, with lots of hotels and restaurants swarming with Western tourists. Despite this, we’re still on Lombok, so the atmosphere is quiet, all things considered.

What to do and see in Senggigi

Honestly, I didn’t find Senggigi a particularly exciting destination. Apart from spending a few relaxing days on the beach, there isn’t much to do. Senggigi Beach (Google Maps) is the main beach, nothing exceptional, but not that bad either. In any case, my advice is to go for the beaches to the north, like Nipah Beach (Google Maps) and Pantai Pandanan (Google Maps). What’s more, the coastal road offers more than a few interesting views, like the one at Malimbu Hill (Google Maps).

Senggigi Beach.

Where to stay in Senggigi?

I spent one night at Mugeni Homestay: excellent value for money.

How to get to Senggigi?

If you’re not getting around by scooter, on Lombok there’s a network of shared taxis that shuttle between the main tourist destinations, and any guesthouse can arrange the transfer.

Sunset at Senggigi Beach.

SUMBAWA

Sumbawa is definitely an island with little tourism. Most travelers go straight from Lombok to Flores to visit the famous Komodo National Park. I was planning to explore the island in 2023, but unfortunately I had to change my itinerary along the way, so even though I’d done more than a bit of research, and all in all the island seemed to have more than a few interesting destinations, I can’t speak from personal experience. That said, if you’re looking for a destination still far from mass tourism and you have time, I’m sure reaching Flores overland via Sumbawa can be a great experience. Travelfish has a guide on its site. Here you’ll find another guide, although it’s not very detailed.

FLORES

For many travelers, Flores is synonymous with Komodo: the famous national park, home of the Komodo dragon and some of the best dive sites in the world, a true paradise on earth. But the island has much more to offer. The weeks I spent crossing Flores by scooter from Labuan Bajo to Maumere are some of the best of all my travels. An island waiting to be discovered, still far from mass tourism, but at the same time with enough tourism to guarantee accommodation and infrastructure.

Deer in Komodo.

Labuan Bajo

Labuan Bajo is simply the port town that serves as the crossroads for anyone who wants to explore Komodo National Park. From here you can organize every tour imaginable.

What to do and see in Labuan Bajo

As mentioned, Labuan Bajo itself doesn’t have much to offer, but if you have a few hours, you could visit Rangko Cave (Google Maps), famous for its natural saltwater pool, lit up by a beautiful play of light when the sun comes in through its opening in the early afternoon. To get there, you have to take a boat at this spot (Google Maps), which is about half an hour from Labuan Bajo. They ask 100,000 – 200,000 IDR depending on how good you are at negotiating and on the number of people, plus another 50,000 IDR to enter the cave.

Komodo National Park.

Komodo National Park

Many travelers decide to explore the park by doing the boat tour from Lombok to Labuan Bajo or vice versa. The tour is offered by several companies, but the program is fairly standard and takes four days and three nights. I made the trip with Kareem the Explorer in “Deck class” and, although you couldn’t call it comfortable, all in all I have nothing to complain about. There are, however, several companies offering basically the same kind of trip, such as Wanua Adventure, Green Rinjani and Travel Wise.

Pink Beach.

You’ll find the detailed program at the various links, so I won’t repeat it here, but basically the first two days on the boat are nothing special: a short stop at Pulau Kenawa (Google Maps) on the first day, the whale sharks on the morning of the second day (they feed them, and personally I found it really sad; I didn’t even get in the water), and then just a lot of sailing, which, if you’re unlucky enough to hit rough seas, can be real torture. The two days inside the national park, on the other hand, were beautiful: we went to see the Komodo dragons (Google Maps), Pink Beach (Google Maps), a few snorkeling stops and sunset at the iconic Pulau Padar (Google Maps).

Sunset at Pulau Padar.

Alternatively, you could simply fly to Labuan Bajo and organize a boat tour of one or more days directly from there. I think the tour from Lombok has become so popular among travelers mostly for budget reasons. In fact, the boat tour costs just a little more than the flight alone from Lombok to Labuan Bajo, and if you travel the other way (Labuan Bajo – Lombok), you could spend even less, since there’s much less demand in that direction. The boats have to go back anyway, so they’re willing to offer big discounts.

Komodo dragon.

To wrap up, if you’re certified, I strongly recommend doing at least one day of diving in the park: we’re really talking about one of the best places in the world. I did three fun dives with Uber Scuba Komodo (Google Maps) and had a really good time: kind and skilled staff, a really comfortable boat and great food. What’s more, they accept payments with Wise, which is really convenient. If you’re not registered yet, using this link your first transfer up to 500€ is completely free. Other dive shops that are often recommended are Wet Frog Divers (Google Maps) and Divers Paradise Komodo (Google Maps). If, on the other hand, you’re looking for a budget liveaboard, a good friend recommended Wunderpus Liveaboard to me.

Where to stay in Labuan Bajo?

I stayed at Bajo Nature Backpackers, a great, well-located hostel with really kind staff. Recommended.

How to get to Labuan Bajo?

99% of travelers arrive in Labuan Bajo by sea, doing the tour from Lombok, or by plane from Bali (there are daily flights). You could also consider flying to Maumere and traveling “the other way”, crossing Flores overland and then taking the boat tour to Lombok. There are ferry connections between Labuan Bajo and the island of Sulawesi.

Swimming with whale sharks.

How to get around Flores

Before even looking at the various attractions in Flores, I think it’s worth saying a few words about how to get around the island along the classic itinerary from Labuan Bajo to Maumere and vice versa.

Flores by scooter/motorbike

This is the option I chose and recommend to anyone who wants maximum freedom and a pinch of adventure. The “Trans-Flores Highway” was recently modernized and is therefore in excellent condition. What’s more, there isn’t much traffic on the island, so all in all it’s a pleasant road. The secondary roads, however, are often in terrible condition. Nothing impossible, but it’s definitely advisable to have at least a bit of experience on two wheels. If you decide to go for this solution, as far as I know there are only two options for renting a scooter in Labuan Bajo and returning it in Maumere or vice versa.

The cheapest option is the one offered by Marian, whom you can find at Divers Paradise Komodo (Google Maps) in Labuan Bajo, and who works with Lena House (Google Maps) just outside Maumere. When I was there, they asked 100,000 IDR a day, a 400,000 IDR deposit and another 400,000 IDR for returning the scooter. If you’re traveling heavy, you can arrange for part of your luggage to be transported. The more expensive option is the one offered by Motor Adventure Bali (Google Maps), and their Maumere office is here (Google Maps). I had to rent from them because Marian didn’t have any scooters available. I suggest you check the official website for updated prices, but they’re much more expensive. It’s also true, though, that the scooters/motorbikes are in better condition, you can get insurance, they accept card payments, etc., etc. Basically, a completely different kind of service.

Mount Inerie.

Private driver in Flores

A bit like in Sumatra, a good number of travelers, especially families or groups, simply decide to hire a private driver. This is definitely a convenient option, but also by far the most expensive: expect to pay at least 30/40€ a day plus fuel. Guesthouses are normally able to provide more than a few contacts.

Public transportation in Flores

The last option is a combination of public transport and shared taxis. Almost certainly, to visit the various points of interest or join some tours, you’ll still have to rent a scooter locally, but for long journeys public transport is undoubtedly a valid option. There are the classic local minivans, often packed, and shared taxis, but also the often-recommended Gunung Mas minibuses, which you can book via WhatsApp. In any case, any guesthouse can help you book, show you where the stop is and, in some cases, have you picked up.

Wae Rebo.

Wae Rebo

Wae Rebo (Google Maps) is the most famous traditional village on the island, if not in the entire archipelago. At over a thousand meters above sea level, surrounded by valleys and forests, the touristy part of the village, with its iconic traditional houses, is undoubtedly striking. However, in my opinion, it has lost much of its authenticity, effectively turning into a commercial attraction, but I’d still recommend a visit. I arrived before noon and was able to enjoy it in peace: I played volleyball with the locals, chatted and did other things. In the afternoon, though, big crowds started to arrive, and in the evening it seemed like there were more tourists than inhabitants. Or at least, that was my impression. In short, visit it with the right expectations.

To get there, you have to walk for just under two hours along a well-marked and well-maintained trail that starts at this spot (Google Maps), and you absolutely don’t need a guide (All Trails). I stayed overnight: they ask 350,000 IDR including dinner and breakfast. If you just want to visit the village and go back down the same day, I think they ask 50,000 IDR.

From the village at the foot of Wae Rebo, if you want, you can organize excursions to the nearby Mules Island (Google Maps). I didn’t visit it, though.

Wae Rebo.

Where to stay in Wae Rebo?

I left Labuan Bajo in the late afternoon, so I ended up spending a night at Parle Zo Cottage (Google Maps) and went up to Wae Rebo the following morning. An often-recommended option is Wae Rebo Lodge (Google Maps).

How to get to Wae Rebo?

If you’re coming from Labuan Bajo by scooter, unless things have changed recently, be aware that the coastal road is in terrible condition. As far as I know, there’s no public transport that gets out here, but since it’s relatively close to Labuan Bajo, you can join an organized tour or simply find someone to share a taxi with.

Wae Rebo.

Ruteng

Even before you get to Ruteng, if you want, there’s Todo (Google Maps), another traditional village you can visit. I didn’t go, but in any case they ask 100,000 IDR here and, judging by the reviews, more than a few people seem to find it not very authentic.

Rice fields in Ruteng.

What to do and see in Ruteng

Back to Ruteng proper, there isn’t much to see in town; the only real attraction is the traditional village of Ruteng Puu (Google Maps), which has terrible reviews, though, and on top of that I was coming from Wae Rebo, so I preferred to skip it. But you only need to get out of the center for a moment to enjoy some striking views. Sun Rice Homestay organizes a hike through the rice fields every morning to see the sunrise, but if you want you could simply stop along the road (Google Maps) (Google Maps).

Sunrise with Sun Rice Homestay.

Over the course of a day you could explore the area around Ruteng; the roads are more often than not far from the best, but not that bad either. You could start with the Hobbit Cave, or Liang Bua (Google Maps), where Homo floresiensis was discovered, nicknamed “hobbit” because of its short stature: an extinct species of hominin that lived around 100,000-50,000 years ago and stands out for its small size (about 1 meter tall). Next to the cave there’s a small museum (Google Maps). Honestly, there isn’t much to see, but entry only costs 20,000 IDR. From here you could head on to the Air Terjun Pangkadari waterfall (Google Maps); I didn’t go, since the road seems to be in really bad shape and once you get there you have to take a guide, because the trail isn’t marked anywhere and you have to walk for about an hour.

Hobbit cave.

Instead, I went to the Air Terjun Tengkulese waterfall (Google Maps), for which you have to park at this spot (Google Maps), while this is the turnoff that leads to the parking lot (Google Maps). The waterfall is really beautiful; they ask 10,000 IDR for parking and offer you a guide. I turned it down and they didn’t make a fuss. The trail is easy to follow, the waterfall is really beautiful and, at least during my visit, there were only some local kids around.

Air Terjun Tengkulese.

Finally, I recommend visiting the Lingko Spider Web rice fields (Google Maps), which, as the name suggests, are shaped like a spider web when seen from above. This is due to a traditional method of dividing the land carried on by the villagers. I just flew my drone from a side road, but if you want there’s a viewpoint (Google Maps) where the locals ask 20,000 IDR.

Lastly, I’d like to point out that, even if you’re getting around by public transportation, you could still decide to rent a scooter in Ruteng to visit Wae Rebo, as a couple of guys I met at the guesthouse did.

Lingko Spider Web.

Where to stay in Ruteng?

As I mentioned, I stayed at Sun Rice Homestay; the owner and his family are incredibly kind and helpful people. Breakfast is included and in the evening everyone has dinner together for a very fair price. Highly recommended. Chacha Homestay & Dormitory is another option often recommended among travelers, even just to eat at the restaurant.

How to get to Ruteng?

If you don’t have your own transportation, Ruteng is one of those destinations served by Gunung Mas minibuses.

Lingko Spider Web.

Bajawa

Even before you get to Bajawa, Danau Ranamese, or Lake Ranamese (Google Maps), is often recommended, but the owner of the guesthouse told me it’s absolutely not worth it, since they ask foreigners 100,000 IDR, so I kept going. Two other popular stops are Cepi Watu Beach (Google Maps) and Liang Bala Beach (Google Maps); I didn’t feel like going to the beach and, on top of that, the reviews talk about a lot of trash, so here too I kept going.

Sunrise from the top of Mount Inerie.

What to do and see in Bajawa

There isn’t much to do in town. In fact, Bajawa is a bit like Ruteng: simply a great base for exploring the surrounding area.

Traditional villages

Around Bajawa there are several traditional villages of the Ngada ethnic group; the most famous is Bena (Google Maps), which seems to have been founded more than a thousand years ago. Unlike other traditional villages, people actually live here, so I think it offers a slightly more authentic experience. Entry costs 25,000 IDR. You could then head on to Gurusina (Google Maps); this one is basically empty, so it has a slightly strange atmosphere, and they ask for a donation at the entrance. From here you could go up to Tololela (Google Maps); the road is in really terrible condition and, not feeling like walking, at some point I simply turned around without visiting it.

Bena village.

Viewpoints

There are dozens of viewpoints from where you can admire the Inerie volcano. Wolobobo Viewpoint (Google Maps) can be reached by car/scooter, so it’s particularly popular, especially at sunset. Manulalo Panorama (Google Maps) is inside the bar/restaurant, and I think it’s the perfect place to stop and eat something after visiting the traditional villages and the hot springs.

Finally, I recommend Bukit Avatar Langa (Google Maps), which you reach at the end of a short trail (exposed in places) that starts from the parking lot at this spot (Google Maps). They ask 20,000 IDR for entry.

Wolobobo Viewpoint.

Mount Inerie

Because of bad weather I had to postpone the climb several times, but climbing to the summit of Mount Inerie at sunrise had become a matter of principle, so much so that after a few days in Riung I went back to Bajawa just for that, and it was absolutely worth it!

Great hike, with a nice 360-degree view from the summit. You absolutely don’t need a guide; you can simply leave your scooter at the start of the trail at this spot (Google Maps) and follow the GPS track (All Trails). In any case, except for the initial part that goes through the yard of a couple of houses, and a few spots where there are several tracks, even in the middle of the night the trail isn’t that hard to follow. If it makes you feel more comfortable, you could always take a guide; any guesthouse can give you some contacts or even just organize transportation in case you don’t have a scooter.

Sunrise from the summit.

Hot springs

After climbing to the top of the volcano at sunrise, you could enjoy a few hours of relaxation at the Manalage hot springs (Google Maps). They’re at the confluence of two streams, one of hot water and the other of cold water, so the temperature is never constant: a really unique and very natural experience. Obviously I recommend visiting them even if you decide not to climb to the top of the volcano. Entry costs 20,000 IDR. Toward Riung there are other hot springs, Soa Mengeruda (Google Maps); the facility has seen better days, but the various pools aren’t bad at all. That said, since they’re at a much lower altitude than Bajawa, unless it’s a bad day, I recommend avoiding the middle of the day, because hot springs in the heat aren’t pleasant at all. Entry costs 20,000 IDR.

Manalage hot springs.

To wrap up, I also went to Air Terjun Ogi (Google Maps); the waterfall itself isn’t bad, but you can’t swim and at the base there’s a small dam that kind of ruins the atmosphere. Certainly not a must-see.

Where to stay in Bajawa?

During my two stays in Bajawa I slept in no fewer than three different guesthouses: Cinnamon Guest House, Marselino Bacpacker’s Room and Kristian Homestay. All in all, I’d recommend all three. Good value for money.

How to get to Bajawa?

If you don’t have your own transportation, Bajawa is one of those destinations served by Gunung Mas minibuses.

Soa Mengeruda hot springs.

Riung

Riung is a destination often skipped during a trip to Flores. In fact, most travelers go straight from Bajawa to Moni, but if you have time, I think it’s absolutely worth spending a couple of days there.

The main reason to come to Riung is to visit the 17 Islands National Park (Google Maps); as the name suggests, it’s a national park made up of seventeen islands. The boat tours are fairly standard, but if you want you can organize a private tour and pretty much do whatever you like.

Nunsa Bampa.

In my case we went to see the fruit bat colony (Google Maps), snorkeling and lunch at Nunsa Bampa (Google Maps), more snorkeling and finally Nunsa Rutong (Google Maps), where you can climb up to the viewpoint or simply spend some time on the beach. All really beautiful, and very few people around. All the guesthouses work with some captain and can organize the tour; alternatively, you could go directly to the port or send a few WhatsApp messages to the various “agencies” you find pinned on Google Maps near the pier, like ADAM BOAT RIUNG (Google Maps), Darno Boat Trip (Google Maps), etc., etc. I paid 300,000 IDR through the guesthouse, all included.

To wrap up, just outside Riung, at Watu Mitong Riung (Google Maps), there’s a nice viewpoint that you reach at the end of a short trail.

Viewpoint.

Where to stay in Riung?

I spent a couple of nights at Riung Guesthouse. Not that I had much choice, since, booking only a couple of days before and in the middle of August, it was the only one with availability. In any case, I had a good stay: really nice accommodation, kind and helpful staff.

How to get to Riung?

As far as I know, there’s no form of public transportation from Riung to Bajawa. The travelers without their own transportation I talked to had all arrived with a shared taxi organized by their guesthouse. If, on the other hand, you have a scooter, the road that directly connects Riung to Bajawa is in bad shape in places, so much so that some people advise against it; personally, I didn’t find it that bad and, as I mentioned earlier, I even rode it twice to go back to Bajawa and climb to the top of Mount Inerie instead of taking the coastal road toward Ende.

Fruit bats.

Ende

Ende is the second-largest city on Flores; it has nothing to offer, but it’s a good stop if for any reason you want to break up the journey from Riung to Moni. Also, the direct ferry to Sumba leaves from here, and there are flights to Labuan Bajo and Kupang in Timor.

A possible stop just outside town is Pantai Batu Biru (Google Maps), which translates as “Blue Stone Beach”. Unfortunately, these stones have by now been completely removed from the beach to be sold, and even just driving along the road you can see endless piles of them for sale.

Where to stay in Ende?

I spent one night at the Apollo Capsule Hotel to break up the trip to Moni, and then another night before catching the ferry to Sumba. Classic capsule hotel, clean and cheap. Recommended.

17 Islands National Park.

Moni

Moni is a small village along the Trans-Flores Highway at the foot of the Kelimutu volcano.

What to do and see in Moni

Kelimutu National Park

Kelimutu National Park is undoubtedly the number one attraction in Moni. The three crater lakes on the summit of the volcano offer a view that’s nothing short of striking. Unfortunately, there isn’t much else to do inside the park. From the parking lot there’s just one short trail that leads to a few viewpoints, but it really is a breathtaking view that’s absolutely worth seeing.

The park opens early in the morning, so there’s a chance to see the sunrise from the summit. Obviously, if you have your own transportation you can simply drive (the road is in excellent condition); alternatively, you could join a “guided tour”, which normally only includes transportation. The most beautiful viewpoint, from where you can see all three lakes, is here (Google Maps), which is basically where the trail, also marked on Organic Maps, ends.

Sunrise from the summit.

After seeing the sunrise, I even went back in the afternoon (just keep your ticket) and, at least during the week, there was practically nobody. The color of the lakes changes during the day depending on the light, so it can be interesting to go back.

Entry to the national park costs 150,000 IDR during the week and 225,000 IDR on the weekend. The official entrance is at this spot along the road (Google Maps) that goes up to the volcano. I was told that if you drive to the village of Pemo, at this spot (Google Maps) there’s a trail, also marked on Organic Maps, that goes up to the volcano, effectively saving you the park entrance fee.

Kelimutu National Park.

Hot springs

Around Moni there are at least a couple of hot springs. At Air Panas Liasembe (Google Maps) they’ve built artificial pools that the locals use as a public bathroom to shower and so on; hygiene leaves a lot to be desired, but if you’re looking for a very local experience, drop by in the evening: I was literally the only foreigner.

If you want a more natural experience, I recommend Kolorongo Hot Spring (Google Maps), springs right in the middle of the rice fields; unfortunately the small natural pool isn’t very deep, but the setting is really nice.

Waterfalls

Air Terjun Murundao (Google Maps) is right in the “center”; they ask 5000 IDR. Nothing exceptional, but not that bad either for a refreshing swim. Air Terjun Murukeba (Google Maps) is, in my opinion, much nicer; you can’t swim here, but the setting is really striking and, on top of that, during my visit there was literally nobody. The trail starts at this spot (Google Maps) along the road, where you have to walk up along the irrigation canal. It’s not always clear, but it’s marked on Organic Maps, so you shouldn’t have any problems. Not far away there are also some fumaroles (Google Maps).

Air Terjun Murukeba.

Where to stay in Moni?

I spent a couple of nights at Moni Mahalika: really spacious rooms, far enough from the road that you don’t hear the traffic noise. Recommended.

How to get to Moni?

If you don’t have your own transportation, since it’s along the Trans-Flores Highway, Moni should be served by Gunung Mas minibuses. Coming from Bajawa, you might have to change buses in Ende.

Fumaroles near the waterfall.

Koka Beach

Koka Beach, or Pantai Koka (Google Maps), is a really nice beach about halfway between Moni and Maumere. It’s a relatively popular stop for organized tours, which tend to break for lunch here and spend a few hours before continuing toward one of the two destinations. If you have time and are looking for a place to spend a few days relaxing, I think it’s worth stopping longer.

The beach is particularly pleasant in the evening or in the morning, when there are no day visitors, who in any case are never that many in this part of Indonesia. Except perhaps on the weekend, when local tourism might make itself felt.

Koka Beach.

Where to stay at Koka Beach?

I slept right on the beach at Koka Beach Homestay by Blasius Woda (Google Maps). The bungalows are very spartan, but not that bad either. The couple who also run the restaurant on the beach are really friendly, and the food is delicious.

How to get to Koka Beach?

If you don’t have your own transportation, you could get dropped off along the Trans-Flores Highway and then take a motorbike taxi or simply walk, since it’s less than 2 km.

Along the Trans-Flores Highway.

Maumere

Maumere is the largest city on the island. Honestly, it’s not a very interesting destination, but there’s an airport here with several daily departures to Bali and elsewhere. For this reason, it’s a good starting or ending point for an itinerary in Flores.

Otherwise, it’s certainly not a very interesting city, so I don’t recommend staying long. However, there are some attractions in the area you might consider visiting. I didn’t go, but the day trip to the islands of Pulau Koja Doi (Google Maps), Pulau Pangabatang (Google Maps) and Pulau Babi (Google Maps) seems relatively popular; apparently the snorkeling isn’t bad at all. All the guesthouses seem to offer the tour.

If you decide to stay in the area for more than a few days, you’re probably better off staying around Hitokalak; here there are some nice guesthouses a stone’s throw from the beach, like Lena House and Sunset Cottages, but also dive centers like Santai Divers Maumere and HAPPY DIVE RETREAT. You could also organize a hike to Mount Egon (Google Maps).

Where to stay in Maumere?

I slept at Guest House Dorm Floressa: nothing exceptional, but if you’re looking for something cheap, for one night it’s more than fine. As I just said, if you want to stay for a few days, I think it’s better to stay east of the city, that is, at Lena House or Sunset Cottages.

How to get to Maumere?

As I mentioned, Maumere has an airport with several daily flights to Labuan Bajo, Bali and Kupang in Timor. There are also direct buses and shared taxis that go at least as far as Bajawa. For example, to go back to Ende to catch the ferry to Sumba, I had the guesthouse book me a shared taxi.

17 Islands National Park.

SUMBA

Sumba, the island south of Flores, is one of the least touristy destinations I’ve ever visited on my travels. If you really want to get off the classic tourist circuits in Indonesia and get a taste of an island that’s still very wild, little known and little visited, Sumba could be right for you.

Sunset in Sumba.

How to get around Sumba

Before even talking about what to do and see in Sumba, I think it’s worth saying a few words about how to get around the island, since public transportation, except for a few connections between the main towns, isn’t an option.

Sumba by scooter/motorbike

Unless you decide to go for a private driver, to explore the island sooner or later you’ll inevitably have to rent a scooter. What I did, and recommend to anyone who wants maximum freedom and a pinch of adventure, is to divide the island into three parts: east, central and west. For each part of the island, rent a scooter, do your trips, return the scooter and then move east/west by public transportation. The three ideal bases to rent a scooter are, respectively: Waingapu, Waikabubak and Tambolaka.

The main roads have improved a lot in recent years and, all things considered, are in good condition; on top of that, there’s very little traffic on the island, so driving is pretty pleasant. Secondary roads, on the other hand, are often in terrible shape, as are many of the access roads to the various waterfalls and beaches. Nothing impossible, but it’s definitely advisable to have at least some familiarity with two wheels.

In Waingapu I rented a scooter with Muruhumba Trans (Instagram); you’ll find the WhatsApp number on the page. The young couple I dealt with not only speak excellent English but are also extremely willing to give advice; really very kind. They delivered the scooter right to my hotel and then came to pick it up at no extra cost. I paid 150,000 IDR a day for a brand-new Yamaha Fazzio.

In Waikabubak, on the other hand, I rented the scooter directly at the guesthouse; the scooter was in really bad shape, but they “only” wanted 100,000 IDR a day, which for Sumba is a good price.

Finally, in Tambolaka I rented the scooter from Arinka Scooter Rental Sumba (Google Maps), a 2015 Honda Vario in good condition for 200,000 IDR a day. The rental place is right outside the airport, so you can pick up/drop off the scooter when you arrive/leave. You can contact them directly on WhatsApp at the number you’ll find on Google Maps. Another option is Afiv Rent car, Tour & Adventure Sumba (Google Maps), which is next to the other rental place; they also have excellent reviews, but higher prices.

Along the roads of Sumba.

Private driver in Sumba

A bit like in Sumatra and Flores, here too most travelers, especially families or organized tours, simply decide to hire a private driver. This is definitely a convenient and practical option, but also by far the most expensive. Guesthouses are normally able to provide more than a few contacts if you’re interested, or you could contact the agencies mentioned earlier directly. Muruhumba Trans (Instagram) and Afiv Rent car, Tour & Adventure Sumba (Google Maps) definitely offer this kind of service. Alternatively, search Google Maps for “Rental mobil” and several options should come up. If you feel like driving, you could rent a car yourself, although personally I’d think twice about it.

Public transportation in Sumba

As I mentioned, except for the connections along the main artery that links Waingapu to Tambolaka via Waikabubak, public transportation is practically nonexistent.

Waingapu (East Sumba)

Waingapu is the main town in the eastern part of the island. From here there are daily flights to Bali, but also ferry connections to Ende on the island of Flores, which makes it a good arrival or departure point. Waingapu itself has nothing to offer tourists, but it can still be used as a base for exploring the surrounding area. The only real attraction in town is the village of Kampung Raja Prailiu (Google Maps), which has dozens of traditional houses and some megaliths.

The dancing trees of Sumba

About half an hour from Waingapu, at Pantai Walakiri (Google Maps) to be precise, you’ll find Sumba’s iconic dancing trees. These mangrove-like trees, sculpted by the wind, offer a view that’s nothing short of unique, especially at high tide, when they seem to float on the water. The beach itself isn’t that bad either. The area where I took the photos is a little way from the main beach; to be precise, I was at this spot (Google Maps).

The dancing trees of Sumba.

Puru Kambera Beach, Tanggedu Waterfall and Wunga village

West of town you could drop by Pantai Puru Kambera (Google Maps), a really nice and basically deserted beach; from here, continue toward the Air Terjun Tanggedu waterfall (Google Maps). Along the road there’s a nice viewpoint, Savana Puru Kambera (Google Maps).

Pantai Puru Kambera.

In any case, the waterfall isn’t bad at all, and there are some nice natural pools where you can swim and spend a few hours relaxing. Entry costs 25,000 IDR. If you have a scooter, you can ride all the way to the waterfall’s parking lot proper along what is really more of a trail than a road. The alternative is to leave the scooter at the start of this trail/road and continue on foot for about twenty minutes, or take a motorbike taxi for about 50,000 IDR.

Finally, you could head on to Kampung Adat Wunga (Google Maps), which, according to local history, is considered the oldest on the island. I didn’t go because, first of all, there doesn’t seem to be much to see and, second, I didn’t feel like going all that way.

Air Terjun Tanggedu.

The green hills of Sumba

The entire area around Waingapu is characterized by hilly landscapes that turn bright green during the rainy season, creating really picturesque views. I visited the island at the end of the dry season, so conditions were far from ideal. I only went to Bukit Tanau (Google Maps), just outside town. Other popular viewpoints are: Bukit Hiliwuku (Google Maps), Savana Merdeka (Google Maps), Bukit Wairinding (Google Maps) and Bukit Ndapayami (Google Maps). The last two are on the road to Tarimbang and Waikabubak, so depending on how you’re traveling, you might consider a short detour. I suggest reading some recent reviews, because the roads that lead to these viewpoints are often in terrible shape.

Pantai Tarimbang

Tarimbang Beach (Google Maps) is one of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen in my life. A large bay of white sand, crystal-clear water and jungle that reaches all the way to the sea. Still far from mass tourism, this is a real gem. Some people decide to visit it on a day trip from Waingapu, but I think it’s really worth spending at least one night there, not least because we’re talking about more than two hours from town along a road that’s in pretty bad shape in places.

Pantai Tarimbang.

For years there was only one guesthouse, Marthen Homestay (Google Maps), which also has an official website. I slept here for a couple of nights: very simple bungalows; the ones with a private bathroom are definitely nicer. You can book by sending a WhatsApp message. While I was there, I met three Australian surfers in their sixties who have been coming to this beach for about twenty years, and they told me the surf is excellent. A second, much more expensive option is Camp Tarimbang (official website). The place was recently opened by a German guy I got to meet one afternoon on the beach, and he seemed like a really kind person.

In any case, I just enjoyed the beautiful beach, although if you want you can organize hikes or boat trips to the nearby bays, or go to the Kabubul (Google Maps) and Laputi (Google Maps) waterfalls.

Pantai Tarimbang.

Wai Marang Waterfall and southeast Sumba

Wai Marang Waterfall (Google Maps) is about two hours from Waingapu. Although the waterfall itself is small and certainly not impressive, the natural pool at its foot, surrounded by forest, makes it really beautiful and striking. The last stretch of road to get to the parking lot is in pretty bad shape, so be prepared! In any case, once you get to the parking lot, a guide is absolutely not necessary; the trail is easy to follow and marked on Organic Maps.

Wai Marang Waterfall.

Many people visit the waterfall on a day trip, but I left Waingapu in the afternoon and then spent the night at Purnama Kasih Homestay (Google Maps); the shop next door acts as the “reception”. Very local accommodation. If you’re looking for something with more Western standards, but also much more expensive, take a look at Ecoresort Sumba Dream (official website).

Kampung Adat Praiyawang.

The next day I then continued toward the southern tip of the island, making a short stop at the traditional village of Kampung Adat Praiyawang (Google Maps). I spent a few days at Sumba Adventure Resort; I was literally the only guest. The whole area is even less touristy than the rest of Sumba; here there are endless stretches of deserted beaches and lots and lots of peace. Two other options for sleeping in the area are Wajonata Sumba and Kalala Beach Resort (closed for renovation work during my visit). Before Covid, Sumba Adventure Resort offered activities like diving, fishing and so on, but when I was there, there was so little tourism that they had stopped everything; basically, I spent my days reading on the beach. If you want to go for a ride, you can go to Pantai Watuparunu (Google Maps).

Beach in front of Sumba Adventure Resort.

Where to stay in Waingapu?

I spent a few nights at Hotel Jemmy (Google Maps), a hotel frequented mostly by locals: very basic but cheap rooms. Not far away there’s a nice restaurant where I went to eat more than a few times: Timoer Cafe (Google Maps). If you’re looking for something with more Western standards but still not too expensive, take a look at LOPE HOMESTAY, Casa Kandara and Pondok Wisata dan Restoran Elim.

How to get to Waingapu?

From the port of Waingapu (Google Maps) there are ferry connections to the port of Ende on Flores (Google Maps). That’s exactly how I got to Sumba. You can book online on this site; at least at the time of writing this guide, you need a local bank account to make the payment. In person, you can buy the ticket here (Google Maps). As I mentioned, from Waingapu airport there are also daily flights to and from Bali. To and from Waikabubak, the guys at the guesthouse recommended I take the Travel Sinar Lombok minivan (Instagram); they booked it for me via WhatsApp and came to pick me up right at the guesthouse. Alternatively, you can go to the bus terminal (Google Maps) and, at least during the day, you shouldn’t have trouble finding a departure.

Pantai Watuparunu.

Waikabubak (Central Sumba)

As I mentioned, Waikabubak is the ideal base for exploring the central-western part of the island. If you’re coming from Waingapu, even before you get to Waikabubak, you could stop at the traditional village of Kampung Adat Pasunga (Google Maps). There seems to be a nice collection of Marapu tombs here. I did this stretch by public transportation, so making a short stop wasn’t an option.

In Waikabubak proper there are still a couple of other traditional villages you can visit; the most famous is undoubtedly Prai Ijing (Google Maps), which is very photogenic and well maintained and, although it’s fairly commercialized, I found the inhabitants really friendly and pleasantly curious. They ask 25,000 IDR to get in. The other often-recommended village is Kampung Tarung (Google Maps); I didn’t go, but I imagine it’s not too different from the other traditional villages.

Prai Ijing.

Waterfalls

The Lapopu (Google Maps) and Matayangu (Google Maps) waterfalls are located along the same trail, a short distance from each other. The route to reach them is available both on Organic Maps and All Trails; the locals, however, not only want 150,000 IDR for entry but seem determined to make you take a guide for another 100,000 IDR. Read some recent reviews, but under these conditions I preferred to skip them.

Instead, I went to Wee Kacura (Google Maps); unfortunately, here too they start with a steep price and offer a guide that’s absolutely not necessary. At least they’re more reasonable, asking 50,000 IDR, but you can easily give them 20,000 IDR. The series of small waterfalls and pools among the rice fields is really beautiful.

Wee Kacura.

Finally, I went to the Lokomboro waterfall (Google Maps), which is really worth it; on top of that, there was nobody else during my visit. You can park right at the small hydroelectric plant (Google Maps); from there you have to walk up the river for a few hundred meters. The caretaker offered to be my guide and, honestly, for once I think it was worth it; if nothing else, he showed me how to go up the river without getting in the water. I gave him 50,000 IDR because he turned out to be really helpful and kind.

Lokomboro Waterfall.

Beaches

In this part of Sumba I didn’t find the beaches particularly beautiful and, above all, they’re often not very suitable for swimming. On the other hand, for surf lovers, there seem to be some of the best beaches in the world around here, like Pantai Marosi. If, like me, you’re not interested in surfing but only in swimming, I recommend the small beach of Pantai Watu Bella, which is next to the previous one and can be reached by going through a village. They might ask you to buy a coconut or pay for parking. Other beaches in the area are Pantai Kerewei and Nihiwatu; unfortunately, the latter, despite the law forbidding it, is in fact privatized (by the luxury Nihi Sumba resort).

Pantai Marosi.

Where to stay in Waikabubak?

I slept at Shekinah Homestay & Cafe Waikabubak RedPartner, which is in Waikabubak. I found it much more practical for getting around, but if you want to spend a few days on the beach without spending a fortune, you could consider THE VILLAGE INN Rua Beach and Jhony Homestay.

How to get to Waikabubak?

As I wrote earlier, to and from Waingapu, the guys at the guesthouse recommended I take the Travel Sinar Lombok minivan (Instagram); they booked it for me via WhatsApp and came to pick me up right at the guesthouse. To and from Tambolaka, during the week there are minivans that leave frequently. At the guesthouses they told me they could have someone pick me up, but I traveled on a Sunday, so I ended up going to the “terminal” (Google Maps), where, with a good dose of Google Translate and the help of an English-speaking passerby, I managed to get a sort of “private” minibus to leave (we still stopped to pick up other people along the way), which for 100,000 IDR took me all the way to the hotel.

Kampung Tarung.

Tambolaka (West Sumba)

A bit like Waingapu, Tambolaka doesn’t have much to offer other than being an arrival or departure point in Sumba and a decent base for exploring the western part of the island.

The nicest beach, not too far from town, is in my opinion Pantai Oro (Google Maps). I parked right at Oro Beach Houses and used their access; the staff told me there was no problem at all. The beach is really nice and quiet, perfect for watching the sunset.

Pantai Oro.

Heading south, I recommend visiting the Rumah Budaya Sumba Museum (Google Maps), which during my visit was however half closed: you could visit literally one room, so I won’t comment, but technically it could be an interesting visit. From there, continue to Waikuri (Google Maps), a beautiful lagoon where you can swim and spend a few hours relaxing. Entry costs 20,000 IDR.

Waikuri.

You could also go to the nearby Pantai Mandorak (Google Maps), a small sheltered bay perfect for swimming. Unfortunately, there are lots of kids asking for money; if you don’t want to come across as “insensitive”, you’d probably be better off going elsewhere. A bit further south, Pantai Pero (Google Maps) isn’t bad; they ask 5000 IDR for parking.

Pantai Mandorak.

Not far away is the iconic traditional village of Ratenggaro (Google Maps); this is definitely the most photogenic village on the island, as well as the most popular. Here too, many reviews talk about pushy kids asking for money and so on, so I preferred to skip it and go to the nearby Wainyapu (Google Maps). Unfortunately, this village recently caught fire, so there wasn’t much to see, but the locals turned out to be really kind, curious and surprised to see me arrive. I then went down to the beach and flew the drone over Ratenggaro to take the iconic photo.

Pantai Pero.

Finally, if you have time left, I recommend driving to Pantai Mbawana (Google Maps), a beautiful deserted beach that you reach at the end of a dirt road; the access is at this spot (Google Maps). I also went to Pantai Watu Malandong (Google Maps), but in my opinion it’s not worth it.

Ratenggaro.

Where to stay in Tambolaka?

I slept at Hotel Pasola, conveniently located near the airport and not bad at all considering the price. If you prefer a much nicer location by the sea, take a look at Oro Beach Houses.

How to get to Tambolaka?

From Tambolaka airport there are daily flights to Bali. Also, from the nearby port of Waikelo (Google Maps) there are ferries to Sape on Sumbawa (Google Maps). The same ferry should also stop at Labuan Bajo on the island of Flores. You can book online on this site but, at least at the time of writing this guide, you needed a local bank account to make the payment.

During the week, to and from Waikabubak, there are minivans that leave frequently. At the guesthouses they told me they could have someone pick me up, but I traveled on a Sunday, so I ended up going to the “terminal” (Google Maps), where, with a good dose of Google Translate and the help of an English-speaking passerby, I managed to get a sort of “private” minibus to leave (we still stopped to pick up people along the way), which took me all the way to the hotel for 100,000 IDR. If you’re traveling in the opposite direction, you can take the Travel Sinar Lombok minivan (Instagram), which you can book via WhatsApp if you like; alternatively, the official office/stop should be this one (Google Maps).

N.B. This is where my direct experience with the main islands of the Indonesian archipelago ends, but for the sake of completeness there are many other possible destinations that I think are worth mentioning.

Pantai Mbawana.

TIMOR

Of the group of islands to the south, Timor is the easternmost of all. I haven’t been there personally, but while I was on Flores I met more than a few travelers who were coming from or heading that way. If you need to, you could do a visa run overland here by entering Timor-Leste (here’s a guide). That said, of the few travelers who venture out this way, as far as I know, most just visit the island of Pulau Rote (here’s a guide). The rest of Timor is even less touristy; the infrastructure is what it is, and even just thinking of booking accommodation online or finding a restaurant open to the public seems to be a pipe dream. On this page you’ll find more information.

KALIMANTAN (BORNEO)

Kalimantan is simply the Indonesian part of the island of Borneo. I haven’t been here either, but while I was traveling in the Malaysian part of the island, I did meet a few travelers heading to Kalimantan. The Derawan Islands are particularly popular (here’s a guide). Considering that Nusantara, Indonesia’s new capital, is located right in Kalimantan, I imagine that in the near future the island could see strong development, especially in terms of infrastructure, which could lead to greater development of tourism.

SULAWESI

Sulawesi is becoming relatively popular. During my latest trips to Indonesia I met more than a few travelers who had been there or were planning to go. It’s still a destination whose tourism sector is in its infancy, though, with everything that entails. Here are a couple of excellent guides for planning an itinerary on the island: Guide one and Guide two.

BANDA ISLANDS

The Banda Islands archipelago is among the most remote and least explored in the whole country; if you’re looking for a destination that’s really off the radar, the Banda Islands could be right for you. Here’s a relatively detailed guide.

PAPUA (WESTERN NEW GUINEA)

Indonesia administers the western part of the large island of New Guinea, in the far east of the country. We’re talking about the province of Papua, which is in fact perhaps the least touristy destination in all of Indonesia.

In the west, however, the exception is the Raja Ampat archipelago, considered the most biodiverse marine environment in the world. Located in the heart of the Coral Triangle, it’s home to over 75% of known coral species, more than 1,400 species of reef fish and an extraordinary variety of marine life, including sharks, manta rays and turtles. Thanks to its remote location and conservation efforts, Raja Ampat is a paradise for divers and sea lovers.

Over the years I’ve had the chance to talk to more than a few travelers who’ve done several dives both in Komodo and Raja Ampat, and many seem to prefer Komodo, which is certainly much more accessible and cheaper. In any case, on this page you’ll find a guide.

Suggested itineraries in Indonesia

After this long section on what to do and see in Indonesia, you’ll have realized that it’s a huge country. Even spending almost five months there, I only managed to visit part of it. I realize that most people have even less time, so instead of suggesting itineraries for the entire country as I usually do, below you’ll find itineraries for the individual islands, which can easily be combined to create longer or shorter trips.

As with any country, there’s no perfect itinerary that works for everyone. So consider what follows as a starting point: adapt it or create a customized one based on your interests and budget!

Harau Valley.

Two-week itinerary in Sumatra

Especially if you don’t have any other beach days planned during your trip to Indonesia, I think it’s worth starting your trip in Banda Aceh so you can spend a few days on the island of Pulau Weh. Otherwise, you could fly straight to Medan.

Banda Aceh (1 night)

Day 1:

Depending on your arrival time, you could go straight to Pulau Weh; otherwise, without leaving the city, you could visit a couple of tsunami-related attractions and the mosque.

Pulau Weh (3 nights)

Day 2:

Ferry from Banda Aceh to Pulau Weh. Spend the rest of the day on the beach.

Day 3:

Snorkeling at Pantai Iboih, boat tour or diving.

Day 4:

Tour of the island by scooter.

Medan (1 night)

Day 5:

Ferry from Pulau Weh to Banda Aceh. Flight to Medan or night bus. If you arrive by plane in the afternoon, you could spend the rest of the day in Medan, maybe visiting the Tjong A Fie Mansion and the Masjid Raya Medan mosque.

Bukit Lawang (4 nights)

Day 6:

Bus from Medan to Bukit Lawang. Organize the trek for the next day. You could drop by the local market, the bat cave or simply spend the rest of the day by the river.

Day 7:

First day of trekking.

Day 8:

Second day of trekking.

Day 9:

Third day of trekking.

Berastagi (2 nights)

Day 10:

Transfer from Bukit Lawang to Berastagi. Drop by the local market and visit the small museum.

Day 11:

Hike to the Sibayak volcano and then visit the hot springs.

Lake Toba (2 nights)

Day 12:

Transfer from Berastagi to Lake Toba. Spend the rest of the day relaxing.

Day 13:

A day exploring Lake Toba.

Day 14:

Return to Medan.

Sunset in Harau Valley.

Three-week itinerary in Sumatra

With an extra week, I recommend following the two-week itinerary I just described and then considering flying from Medan to Padang (or taking the bus) and visiting the Mentawai Islands. If you have a couple of days left over, it’s definitely worth visiting Harau Valley too.

Two-week itinerary in Java

Given the many flights to Jakarta, this is a relatively popular itinerary, and it can easily be combined with a few days in nearby Bali.

Jakarta (1 night)

Day 1:

Honestly, I don’t think it’s worth staying more than one night in Jakarta, especially if you’re short on time. If you have time, you could join a free walking tour.

Yogyakarta (4 nights)

Day 2:

Train or domestic flight from Jakarta to Yogyakarta. If you have time left, you can explore the city.

Day 3:

Borobudur Temple and Prambanan Temple.

Day 4:

Rent a scooter. Go to the Air Terjun Kedung Kayang waterfall and then continue toward Nepal Van Java.

Day 5:

Climb Mount Sumbing. Return to Yogyakarta.

Karimun Jawa (5 nights)

Day 6:

If you haven’t done so already, you could visit Yogyakarta in the morning and then take the transfer to Jepara in the afternoon. If you want, you could travel overnight and leave Yogyakarta the day before.

Day 7:

Ferry or speedboat to Karimun Jawa. Afternoon on the beach.

Day 8:

A relaxing day on the beach.

Day 9:

Boat tour.

Malang (1 night)

Day 10:

Ferry or speedboat to Jepara. Transfer to Malang.

Mount Bromo (1 night)

Day 11:

You could visit the rainbow village in the morning and then rent a scooter to do the Bromo – Tumpak Sewu loop, or join an organized tour. You could go to the Mount Bromo crater in the afternoon. Spend the night in Cemoro Lawang.

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall (1 night)

Day 12:

Sunrise from King Kong Hill. Transfer and visit to the Tumpak Sewu waterfall in the afternoon.

Kawah Ijen (2 nights)

Day 13:

Return to Malang and train to Banyuwangi.

Day 14:

Hike to Kawah Ijen.

Three-week itinerary in Java

With an extra week available, you could include a couple of days in Bandung and, if you’re interested in surfing, either Cimaja or Batukaras.

Broken Beach.

Two-week itinerary in Bali

I think this is the ideal itinerary for anyone visiting Indonesia for the first time who wants the right balance of temples, beaches and trekking and doesn’t mind visiting lots of particularly touristy places.

South Bali (3 nights)

Day 1:

Recover from jet lag and spend a relaxing day on the beach.

Day 2:

Explore the Bukit Peninsula and Uluwatu Temple.

Day 3:

Explore the area to the north; Tegenungan waterfall and Taman Ayun can be swapped for some other activity if you like. Tanah Lot at sunset.

Ubud (3 nights)

Day 4:

Transfer from South Bali to Ubud in the morning; explore the center of Ubud, the central market and Ubud Palace. In the afternoon, go to the Monkey Forest.

Days 5-6:

Visit the Tegalalang rice terraces and then maybe pick a couple of temples or waterfalls depending on your interests and, above all, on how much you feel like riding the scooter.

Central Bali (2 nights)

Day 7:

Visit the Jatiluwih rice fields, the Air Terjun Leke Leke waterfall and Ulun Danu Beratan Temple. Spend the night in Munduk.

Day 8:

Visit the waterfalls around Munduk.

Kintamani (2 nights)

Day 9:

Transfer to Kintamani.

Day 10:

Climb Mount Batur.

Amed (2 nights)

Day 11:

Visit Besakih Temple. Transfer to Amed.

Day 12:

Snorkeling or diving in Amed. Sunset at Lahangan Sweet.

Amlapura (2 nights)

Day 13:

Transfer to Amlapura. Visit the traditional village of Bugbug and spend the rest of the day at Virgin Beach.

Day 14:

Sunrise at Bukit Cinta. Return to South Bali.

Three-week itinerary in Bali

If you have a few more days available, you could add a visit to Lovina, the Nusa Islands or even the Gili Islands.

Kelingking Beach.

Two-week itinerary in Lombok

If you have no intention of climbing to the top of Mount Rinjani, two weeks in Lombok are definitely a lot.

Gili Islands (3 nights)

Day 1:

Speedboat from Bali. Relax on the beach.

Day 2:

Snorkeling tour.

Day 3:

Relax on the beach.

Senaru (4 nights)

Day 4:

Boat from the Gili Islands to Bangsal. Rent a scooter or arrange a transfer to Senaru. Visit the waterfalls. Organize the trek for the next day.

Day 5:

Mount Rinjani trek.

Day 6:

Mount Rinjani trek.

Day 7:

Last day of the trek. Spend the night in Senaru.

Sembalun Lawang (1 night)

Day 8:

Transfer from Senaru to Sembalun Lawang. Drop by Bukit Selong in the afternoon.

Tetebatu (3 nights)

Day 9:

If your legs aren’t in too bad shape yet after Rinjani, climb Pergasingan Hill at sunrise. Transfer from Sembalun Lawang to Tetebatu. Relax.

Day 10:

Visit the Benang Stokel and Benang Kelambu waterfalls.

Day 11:

Explore Tetebatu and the surrounding area. Waterfalls, monkey forest and rice fields.

Kuta Lombok (3 nights)

Day 12:

Transfer from Tetebatu to Kuta Lombok. Beach and viewpoint at sunset.

Day 13:

Surfing or a day on the beach.

Day 14:

Surfing or a day on the beach.

Three-week itinerary in Lombok

With an extra week available, you could consider spending a few days in the Ekas and Senggigi area.

Mount Rinjani.

Two-week itinerary in Flores

Many travelers arrive in Flores by doing the boat tour from Lombok, as described in the guide, so for convenience I’ll start the itinerary that way.

Komodo National Park (3 nights)

Day 1:

First day of the tour.

Day 2:

Second day of the tour.

Day 3:

Third day of the tour.

Labuan Bajo (1 night)

Day 4:

Fourth day of the tour. Spend the night in Labuan Bajo.

Wae Rebo (1 night)

Day 5:

Rent a scooter and drive to the parking lot at the base of Wae Rebo. Walk up the trail and spend the night in the village.

Ruteng (2 nights)

Day 6:

Drive to Ruteng, stopping at the Lingko Spider Web rice fields.

Day 7:

Explore Ruteng and the surrounding area.

Bajawa (2 nights):

Day 8:

Drive to Bajawa. Visit a couple of villages and maybe one of the viewpoints at sunset.

Day 9:

Climb Mount Inerie. Relax at the hot springs.

Riung (2 nights)

Day 10:

Drive to Riung. Viewpoint at sunset.

Day 11:

National park tour.

Moni (1 night)

Day 12:

Drive to Moni. Explore the waterfalls and hot springs.

Koka Beach (1 night)

Day 13:

Sunrise from the top of Kelimutu. Drive to Koka Beach. Relax on the beach and spend the night here.

Maumere (1 night)

Day 14:

Morning on the beach and then drive to Maumere.

Three-week itinerary in Flores

With an extra week available, you could stay a few more days in Labuan Bajo to go diving and maybe visit Rangko Cave. Other options could be a couple of days relaxing at Koka Beach or the boat tour in Maumere.

Tololela.

Two-week itinerary in Sumba

In my opinion, two weeks in Sumba are the right compromise to see everything the island has to offer, while giving yourself more than a few days of total relaxation.

Waingapu (2 nights)

Day 1:

Arrival in Sumba. Rent a scooter. Spend the rest of the day at Pantai Walakiri to admire the dancing trees.

Day 2:

Puru Kambera Beach, Tanggedu Waterfall and Wunga village.

Pantai Tarimbang (2 nights)

Day 3:

Drive to Pantai Tarimbang. Rest of the day on the beach.

Day 4:

You could visit one of the waterfalls or simply spend the day on the beach.

Southeast Sumba (3 nights)

Day 5:

Go back to Waingapu and then drive to Wai Marang Waterfall. Spend the night in the area.

Day 6:

Visit the traditional village of Kampung Adat Praiyawang and then drive to the southern tip of the island. Sumba Adventure Resort and Wajonata Sumba are two good options for sleeping.

Day 7:

Relax on the beach. You could also drop by Pantai Watuparunu.

Waingapu (1 night)

Day 8:

If you set off early in the morning, you could make it back to Waingapu the same day, or you could also spend the morning on the beach, go back to Waingapu in the afternoon, return the scooter and spend the night here.

Waikabubak (3 nights)

Day 9:

Transfer from Waingapu to Waikabubak. Visit Prai Ijing village which, depending on where you’re staying, you could reach directly on foot.

Day 10:

Rent a scooter and head down to the beaches; I particularly recommend Pantai Watu Bella. If you like, you could stop at the Lapopu and Matayangu waterfalls.

Day 11:

Drop by Wee Kacura and then continue toward the Lokomboro waterfall.

Tambolaka (3 nights)

Day 12:

Transfer Waikabubak – Tambolaka. Rent a scooter and spend the rest of the day at Pantai Oro.

Day 13:

Waikuri Lagoon, Pantai Mandorak and Pantai Pero.

Day 14:

Ratenggaro traditional village or the nearby Wainyapu, and Pantai Mbawana.

Three-week itinerary in Sumba

Unless you want to spend more than a few days on the beach or surfing, three weeks are probably “too many”, and I really wouldn’t know what other destination to add. Even the two-week itinerary might be more than enough for some people.

Wainyapu.

How to get around Indonesia

First of all, as I’ve mentioned several times throughout the guide, I strongly recommend downloading Organic Maps. I’ve been using these invaluable offline maps for many years and I think they’re a fantastic tool for traveling. In any case, getting around Indonesia is generally pretty easy, or at least it is on the main tourist islands.

Bemos in Indonesia

Bemos are the traditional form of transportation for short and medium distances. They’re basically minivans, used mostly by locals, and they’re by far the cheapest form of public transportation. They normally have designated stops and terminals, but they can basically be flagged down anywhere along the route they cover.

Shuttle buses in Indonesia

Shuttle bus services are popular especially in Bali, where any accommodation or tourist office can sell you tickets. Perama Bus, which operates in Bali and Lombok, is probably the most popular; prices and schedules can easily be checked online on their website.

Traditional bemo in Bali.

Buses in Indonesia

In Indonesia there’s a dense network of bus connections, especially on the most populated islands like Sumatra and Java. Unlike in other countries, as a rule each city has its own terminal from where all the companies operate, which makes the traveler’s life easier. Many long-distance buses can be booked online on sites like RedBus and Traveloka.

Grab, Gojek, Indrive and taxis

Using the various “ride-hailing” apps is very common throughout Indonesia, and the cost of rides, compared to European standards, is truly ridiculous; all the drivers are registered through the app and it’s safer than regular taxis, plus there’s no need to haggle, since taxi drivers would tend to charge tourists much higher fares. Be careful, though, because as soon as you leave the metropolitan and tourist areas, they’re practically nonexistent: more often than not, the “local mafia” doesn’t allow anyone to use them, effectively running a cartel. If you decide to take a regular taxi, make sure you agree on the price before getting in, so as to avoid pointless arguments.

Grab and Gojek can also be used to book motorbike taxis, which the locals call “Ojek”. For short and medium distances, these aren’t only extremely cheap but also very fast. The drivers definitely know how to weave through traffic and can save you quite a bit of time. Also, if you’re traveling fairly light, you could use them for transfers from one destination to another too.

Private driver in Indonesia

The so-called “driver” is a relatively common form of transportation in Indonesia among those looking for the highest level of comfort. You can look for a few numbers online on sites like Reddit and Facebook groups, or on the spot by asking an agency or guesthouse. In some cases, a much more practical method, which I’ve used myself more than a few times, is simply to call a taxi with Grab and Ojek and, as soon as the driver arrives, negotiate a fixed rate outside the app for the whole day or several days, or maybe simply have them wait for you during a visit. Every time I’ve used this “technique”, the drivers have always been helpful and honest, not least because they save the commissions they’d have to pay the various apps and they make sure they work longer than a single ride.

Renting a scooter in Indonesia

For those who feel up to riding, I think renting a scooter is by far the best option for exploring entire islands like Bali and Lombok. Not only is the scooter often the cheapest means of transportation of all, but it’s also the one that offers the greatest degree of freedom. Rental prices vary widely depending on where you are and how long you plan to rent it for. In Bali, where competition is high, you could literally rent a scooter for a month at a couple of euros a day, while in Sumba I ended up paying even more than ten euros a day.

If you plan to cross Indonesia by scooter/motorbike, it’s definitely worth considering buying one and then selling it when you leave; I’ve met more than a few people who went for this option. A very interesting service, which I talked about in the guide and used myself in Flores, is the one offered by Motor Adventure Bali, which has offices in Java, Bali, Lombok and Flores. Basically, you could rent a vehicle in Jakarta and return it in Maumere, crossing Java, Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa and Flores. The prices aren’t among the cheapest, but it’s a truly unique service and the vehicles are in excellent condition.

Even monkeys ride scooters!

NB: Technically, an international driving permit is required to drive in Indonesia. In practice it’s not a big problem, since if you’re stopped, the often corrupt police are happy with a bit of small change. Just try not to carry too much cash with you, or at least not keep it all in your wallet. The real problem arises in the event of serious accidents, which your insurance would most likely not cover, but that’s another story. If you’re already abroad or simply want to get your international driving permit online, you can do it on this site.

Sembalun.

Trains in Indonesia

Apart from a few rare exceptions for short routes in Sumatra, talking about trains only makes sense for the island of Java, where the rail network, all things considered, isn’t bad at all. All the main cities on the island are connected by rail and you can easily book online on Traveloka. Taking the bus isn’t the end of the world, but traveling by train, where possible, isn’t only more comfortable and faster but often also cheaper. Book in advance.

Domestic flights in Indonesia

Domestic flights can be very cheap and, especially for those who are short on time, they’re almost always the best option for getting from one island to another or even within the same island. Covering long distances overland in Indonesia can sometimes take much longer than you think. There are many low-cost airlines operating in the country, and they show up when you search on the various flight search engines.

Tiu Kelep.

Ferries in Indonesia

A cheaper option than domestic flights is definitely the many ferries that connect the various islands of the archipelago. The national company ASDP covers most routes and in recent years there’s been a major push toward digitalization, and today, for many routes, tickets can only be bought online on the ferizy platform. Unfortunately, at the time of writing this guide, you need a local bank account to complete the payment. On a couple of occasions, the staff of the guesthouse where I was staying agreed to pay for me in exchange for cash; in any case, near every single port there’s always someone offering this service for a small commission.

Lastly, I’d like to point out that, while for short and very busy routes like Java – Bali or Bali – Lombok there are several daily departures, for longer routes like Flores – Sumba or maybe Flores – Sulawesi the ferry might leave only once a week. Especially during the rainy season, when the sea is generally rougher, departures might be delayed or canceled. Basically, try to plan this kind of trip well in advance and, once you’re there, get the departure times confirmed.

Gurusina.

Travel to Indonesia: costs

How much does a trip to Indonesia cost? Little, very little. Indonesia is undoubtedly one of the cheapest countries I’ve ever visited. Obviously it depends a lot on how you travel and where you decide to go, but for a backpacker it’s absolutely possible to stay within a budget of 30€ a day or less without really missing out on anything.

Cost of accommodation in Indonesia

In general, you can easily stay in a good hostel for less than 10€ a night; outside the main tourist destinations you can easily spend around 5€. Even for private rooms in guesthouses and small hotels, you’ll rarely pay more than 10-15€ a night.

Cost of transport in Indonesia

Getting around overland in Indonesia is pretty cheap: buses, minibuses and trains offer really inexpensive travel. As soon as you start preferring private transportation and domestic flights, costs go up and will likely be a major item in your budget.

Cost of food in Indonesia

Obviously it depends on what kind of restaurant you’re looking for, but if you’re not too demanding, “Warungs” (small local restaurants where you sometimes choose what to eat straight from the pots, or where the food is served buffet-style) are a great option. You pay based on what you put on your plate; a meal usually costs around 20,000 – 40,000 IDR. Even in restaurants less frequented by locals, for a plate of Nasi Goreng or Mie Goreng (fried rice and fried noodles) you’ll rarely pay more than 50,000 IDR.

One of my first meals in Indonesia for less than a euro.

Other costs (ATM withdrawals and SIM cards)

ATM withdrawal fees, using the best travel cards, can be reduced to zero. In fact, some local banks let you withdraw for free; unless things have changed, I’ve always withdrawn for free with Mandiri, BSI and Maybank.

As for SIM cards, Telkomsel, which has a strong state shareholding, is by far the company with the best coverage in the country, and especially in rural Indonesia, more often than not it’s literally the only option that works. Basically, unless you want to spend two weeks in Indonesia in South Bali, don’t consider other operators.

The last time I arrived in Bali I couldn’t find a single shop that would sell me a SIM without the tourist data packages, which are completely overpriced. If this turns out to be your experience too, get the cheapest package of all and then buy data directly from the app at market prices. Unfortunately, I know for a fact that they take advantage, because during another trip to Indonesia that started in Sumatra, at the official store they registered a SIM for me without forcing me to buy any data package.

If you have a phone that supports eSIMs and want the convenience of being online right away without having to buy a local SIM, then I recommend using the services offered by Airalo and Ubigi. If you go for this option, though, there are at least a couple of things to consider. First of all, with rare exceptions, data costs much more than it would with a local SIM; secondly, their local partner isn’t always the one with the best coverage in the country.

Basically, I think most travelers would be better off buying a local SIM (or maybe trying to buy a local provider’s eSIM), but I encourage you to think it over for yourself, as there’s no shortage of exceptions. For example, when I visited Japan, the plan offered by Ubigi was cheaper than any local SIM I could buy without proving I was a resident.

Dream Beach.

Travel to Indonesia: safety

Indonesia is generally considered a safe country; the most common forms of crime are fortunately linked to bag snatching and theft (keep an eye on your things, especially in crowded places), while violent crime is extremely rare, a bit like in all of Asia.

If you decide to rent a scooter, be especially careful with the traffic, which, depending on where you are, can be really chaotic. Also, the roads often aren’t in perfect condition and people seem to completely ignore the rules of the road. Another thing I recommend avoiding is coming into contact with any kind of drug: Indonesia has the death penalty for importing and exporting drugs, and even just getting caught in possession of small amounts can lead to serious trouble, including prison.

Finally, something to be particularly careful about is scams: be wary of anyone who approaches you on the street offering help, “mandatory guides”, fake entrance tickets, inflated prices, etc. Unfortunately, these are often common practices in Indonesia and, although in themselves they don’t put your safety at risk, nobody likes getting ripped off.

In any case, don’t be afraid: the truly dangerous countries are definitely elsewhere. Use common sense, take a look at my tips on how to travel safely anywhere in the world, and you’ll see that you won’t have any problems.

Are you planning a trip to Indonesia? Check out these posts:

Which travel backpack to choose

What to bring on your trip

Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!

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