Malaysia Travel Guide
Often overlooked in favor of more popular destinations in Southeast Asia, Malaysia actually has far more to offer than people think: from modern Kuala Lumpur to its many national parks, home to species found nowhere else on the planet, to some of the world’s best beaches and dive sites. This country certainly won’t disappoint!
Over the course of several trips, I’ve spent quite a few weeks backpacking around Malaysia, and in this guide you’ll find loads of useful information and tips to plan your trip as best you can.
Quick menu
- When to visit Malaysia
- Documents and vaccinations to enter Malaysia
- What to do and see in Malaysia
- Suggested itineraries in Malaysia
- How to get around Malaysia
- Backpacking Malaysia: costs
- Backpacking Malaysia: safety
Mount Kinabalu.
When to Visit Malaysia
Temperatures vary very little throughout the year, and so does the humidity, which always stays high. Rain is much more frequent during the rainy season, but it can also fall during the dry season as brief showers, just in the afternoon. As a general rule, avoid the peak of the rainy season, which varies a lot from one region of the country to another.
In short, roughly:
- Lowlands and Highlands (Kuala Lumpur, Melaka and Cameron Highlands) – Rainfall is constant all year round but slightly more frequent from October to January and in March-April.
- West Coast (Penang and Langkawi) – Peak rainfall from August to November and in April/May. The best period is roughly from December to March.
- East Coast (Perhentian Islands and Tioman) – Peak rainfall from November to February. The best period is roughly from April to September.
- Borneo – Peak rainfall from November to February. The best period is roughly from May to September.
Masjid Jamek Mosque in Kuala Lumpur.
Documents and vaccinations to enter Malaysia
With an Italian passport you get a free tourist visa valid for 90 days when you enter the country (the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours). Since 1 December 2023 you have to present the Malaysia Digital Arrival Card (MDAC) when you arrive in the country. You can submit it online starting three days before your arrival in Malaysia on the official website.
You can extend the visa by another 30 days by going to an immigration office or by doing the classic “visa run”, that is, leaving and re-entering the country. Be careful, though: to avoid problems, it seems it’s better to stay out of the country for at least a couple of days, otherwise entry, and the additional 90 days, aren’t guaranteed. Here you’ll find an interesting discussion if you want to look into it further.
Malaysia doesn’t require any mandatory vaccinations, but Hepatitis A and B are always recommended.
For up-to-date information on visas and everything else, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).
Borneo green viper, Mulu National Park.
What to Do and See in Malaysia
As you probably already know, or can see from the map below, Malaysia can be divided into two very distinct regions: Peninsular Malaysia and Borneo, a wild island that Malaysia shares with Indonesia and the tiny Sultanate of Brunei.
In this guide, you’ll find information and itineraries for both regions, organized into two separate sections. We’ll start with Peninsular Malaysia.
Prices are often given in the local currency. The official currency of Malaysia is the Malaysian Ringgit, abbreviated as MYR or simply RM.
The exchange rate is about 1€ = 4.58 MYR. For the current rate, I recommend taking a look at this page.
N.b. Several times throughout the guide you’ll find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly in the AllTrails app, you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.
Peninsular Malaysia
Kuala Lumpur
Chances are “KL” will be your starting point. In my opinion, a couple of days in the city are more than enough. Don’t get me wrong, the city, with its contrast between old and new, is really fascinating, but the few tourist attractions it has to offer can be seen in a short time.
What to Do and See in Kuala Lumpur
Unlike other Southeast Asian cities, Kuala Lumpur has an extremely efficient (and cheap) metro, so I recommend making the most of it: getting around the city is really easy.
Explore the city and its architecture
I recommend starting from the city center, perhaps with a visit to the “City Gallery”, which is basically a visitor center where, among many other things, you can admire a 3D model of KL with all the main attractions highlighted. Admission is free.
In any case, the center is where you’ll find most of the colonial-era buildings built by the British. The former government offices and the Sultan Abdul Samad Building are on the city’s main square, Merdeka Square. About a 10-minute walk away, I also recommend taking a look at the old train station.
Merdeka Square.
Also on the main square is the “Royal Selangor Club”, a club used as a meeting place by the upper ranks of British society in colonial times. And finally, not far from Merdeka Square, there’s a fascinating mosque called Masjid Jamek, open to the public every day 10:00 – 12:30 / 14:30 – 16:00 except Fridays. Still on the subject of mosques, there’s the National Mosque of Malaysia, a gigantic complex that can hold up to 15k worshipers in its prayer hall; unfortunately, during my visit it was temporarily closed to non-Muslim visitors. If you decide to venture over this way, you can also stop by the Perdana Botanical Gardens. Admission is free.
Petronas Towers.
Of course, no tour of the city is complete without seeing the famous “Petronas Towers” and the “KL Tower”. Both are not far from the center, and it’s best to visit them in the evening when the sun goes down and they’re lit up by thousands of lights: a really striking sight. If you like, you can pay to go up to the top of the KL Tower (official website) as well as to an observation deck on the 86th floor of one of the Petronas Towers (official website).
Kampong Bharu.
For a more authentic experience, remember to walk the streets of the “Kampong Bharu” neighborhood: it’s basically a traditional village inside the city, a stone’s throw from the Petronas Towers. If you decide to take a stroll there, Nasi Lemak Wanjo Kg Baru is a really popular restaurant. As the name suggests, the dish to try is Nasi Lemak. Finally, stop by Chinatown, a stone’s throw from the center; the most iconic street is probably Petaling Street. All of this can easily be done in a single day. Getting around by metro is really easy, fast and cheap!
Chinatown in Kuala Lumpur.
Batu Caves
The Batu Caves are another popular attraction in Kuala Lumpur (Google Maps). Hindu priests have used these caves as temples ever since their discovery in 1878. They contain numerous statues and two small structures that you reach at the top of a 272-step staircase, which, in Kuala Lumpur’s muggy heat, isn’t exactly fun, but it’s definitely worth it: the setting is really striking, just watch out for the many monkeys that live nearby, always ready to steal food and anything else they can get their hands on. Admission is free and you can easily get there by metro; the opening hours shown on Google Maps are reliable.
If you’re interested, you can join a guided tour of the adjacent “Dark Cave”, a cave full of bats where you can often see other animals like spiders, snakes, scorpions and hundreds of other insects that live in the darkness of the cave, 35 MYR.
Lastly, if you’re looking for more places to visit, I recommend Thean Hou Temple (Google Maps). It’s especially striking in the evening when the lanterns are lit.
Batu Caves entrance.
Where to Stay in Kuala Lumpur?
In general, using Chinatown as your base is an excellent idea, given how close it is to many of the main attractions. If you’re looking for social hostels, check out Hotel 1000 Miles and above all Mingle Highstreet. On my second visit to the city I stayed at Space Hotel @ Chinatown Kuala Lumpur, slightly more expensive but extremely comfortable if you’re just looking for a place to rest.
How to Get to Kuala Lumpur?
If you arrive at the bus terminal, just hop straight on the metro to reach any destination in the city; if instead you’re arriving from the international airport, the fastest way is to board the KLIA express, a high-speed train that connects the airport terminal to KL Sentral station. You’ll be there in about half an hour and then you can hop on the metro. However, this is also a relatively expensive option: half an hour of travel, 55 MYR.
A cheaper alternative is to take the bus from the airport to KL Sentral, where you can get on the metro. Departures are frequent, the ticket costs 15 MYR and you can pay by card.
Melaka
Melaka, or Malacca, is a port city conveniently located halfway between Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. The city isn’t particularly rich in attractions, but its historic center is a UNESCO site and, especially if you’re arriving by bus from Singapore, it makes an excellent stopover.
What to Do and See in Melaka
Personally, I think a day spent strolling around the center should be more than enough; the two most characteristic streets are Jonker and Heeren. I also recommend not missing the Cheng Hoon Teng temple, the oldest Chinese temple in Malaysia, and climbing up to St. Paul’s Church, where you get great views. The hill on top of which the church stands was the city’s administrative center for years, and it’s therefore surrounded by some of Melaka’s most important historic buildings, such as the Stadthuys, the oldest Dutch building in Southeast Asia, and the adjacent clock tower. On the other side of the hill is the Porta de Santiago, one of the entrance gates of the fortified citadel built by the Portuguese before the Dutch arrived.
Cheng Hoon Teng Temple.
If you want to learn more about the events that led to Malaysia’s independence, I recommend visiting the nearby Proclamation of Independence Memorial; admission is free. Another potentially interesting museum is the Malacca Sultanate Palace Museum, but it was closed for restoration during my visit, so I can’t comment.
St. Paul’s Church.
Just outside the center, I recommend stopping by the Poh San Teng temple; admission is free, and while you’re there you can take a short walk through the adjacent Chinese cemetery. The site isn’t well maintained, but I still found it interesting. There are about 12,500 graves, some dating back to the Ming dynasty. Also nearby, along the river, is Villa Sentosa, a house museum that a friend had strongly recommended to me because, according to her, it really felt like time had stood still, and whoever welcomed her had been incredibly kind. I went by twice and never found a soul there, so I gave up on the visit, but I guess it was just bad luck.
A grave in the Chinese cemetery.
Finally, the floating mosque “Masjid Selat Melaka”, built on an artificial island, is particularly striking in the evening when it’s lit up. The mosque is fairly far from the center; I ended up walking, but you’d probably be better off taking a taxi, 7/8 MYR one way. If you go for the taxi, have it wait for you. I recommend arriving for sunset, admiring the illuminated mosque and then getting a ride back to the center. I almost forgot: there’s a public swimming pool right in the center where you can cool off from Melaka’s humid heat; admission costs just 5 MYR.
The floating mosque of Melaka.
Where to Sleep in Melaka?
I stayed at Ola Hostel and I highly recommend it. The location is excellent and in general the place has everything a good hostel should offer. The owner, Sam, is a really kind and welcoming person.
How to Reach Melaka?
From Kuala Lumpur, buses to Melaka leave from the Bersepadu Selatan terminal roughly every half hour; the journey takes about 2 hours and I personally paid 11.10 MYR for the trip. The Melaka terminal is about 4-5 km from the center; the bus to take to the center is number 17 and it costs 2 MYR. A taxi costs about 7 MYR.
From Singapore, buses leave from pretty much all over the city. I traveled with KKKL, booking online, and the pick-up was at this spot. Unlike other buses, they dropped me off right in the center, so I saved a bit on transport from the station. The “bus terminal” used by many of the other (slightly cheaper) companies covering the Singapore – Melaka route is at the Golden Mile Complex. The journey took 6 and a half hours, including a half-hour break and almost an hour at immigration, almost all of it on the congested Malaysian side. If you want to book your bus online, you can use sites like 12Go and Easybook. You can also cover the first stretch to the border by train (Woodlands checkpoint), but I think that only makes sense if you’re continuing to Kuala Lumpur by changing trains, since to get to Melaka you’d have to take the bus anyway.
Along the river that runs through Melaka.
Taman Negara National Park
It’s the largest park in Peninsular Malaysia, famous for its rainforest, which is home to really diverse flora and fauna. The most popular entrance is the one via Jerantut. In the past this was the favorite base for exploring the park for many visitors, but now there’s plenty of accommodation in the nearby village of Kuala Tahan, where the actual access point to the park is.
What to do and see in Taman Negara National Park
Inside the park you can do anything from simple day trips on foot or by boat to multi-day treks. Entry to the park costs 1 MYR, while the photography permit costs 5 MYR. Technically, the latter is required even for smartphones. To cross the river that separates the village of Kuala Tahan from the park entrance, where the headquarters are, you have to pay 1 MYR.
Canopy walk.
Independent Trekking
If you’re traveling on a budget, or simply don’t feel like joining an organized tour, I recommend doing the loop that starts from the headquarters, which you’ll find described on this page (All Trails). For just 5 MYR, I also recommend doing the Canopy Walk (Google Maps); considering the price, it’s not bad at all. You pay the entrance fee at the headquarters (Google Maps). Basically, you pay before starting the walk.
Two-Day Trek with a Night in the Cave
This two-day trek is relatively popular among travelers. I found it nice but certainly not exceptional. Anyway, on the first day, after a short visit to the headquarters, you do the canopy walk mentioned earlier before heading up the river by boat for about an hour. That’s followed by about four hours of trekking through the jungle to the cave where you spend the night.
The next day you walk for about another three hours and stop briefly at an “indigenous” village where they show you how to light a fire in the jungle and how they make the darts for the blowpipes they use for hunting (if you’re interested, you can even fire a few practice shots!), after which you head back to Kuala Tahan. I paid 250 MYR. Absolutely everything is provided, including the sleeping mat and sleeping bag, but it’s up to you to carry it all in your backpack.
The cave where we spent the night.
Other Tours in the Park
My experience in the park ended with the tour I just described, but loads of other options are offered, like the night walk inside the park, or the hike to Lata Berkoh (Google Maps), a small waterfall where you can swim, which can be reached either on foot (technically the trail can only be done with a guide, but nobody checks) or by boat. Then there’s Teras waterfall (Google Maps), another waterfall that, here too, you can reach either by boat or on foot (officially a guide is required). Finally, you can reach Gunung Tahan, which at 2,187 m is the highest peak in Peninsular Malaysia, on a 6/7-day trek.
These are the most popular, or at least the most advertised, tours, but there are other options too, and you could actually put together a private tour tailored to your interests.
Taman Negara.
How to Reach Taman Negara National Park?
From Kuala Lumpur, and other places too, there are direct buses leaving every day for Jerantut (Google Maps). Before covid there were public buses that then continued on to Kuala Tahan, but during my last visit in 2023 they still hadn’t resumed operating, or at least that’s what I was told when asking around. The only option was private minivans for 35 MYR per person. If you’re traveling in a group, Grab should be cheaper.
To and from Kuala Tahan there are also daily tourist minivan departures to all the main tourist destinations on the peninsula. You can book them through your accommodation or the various travel agencies in the village (it doesn’t seem you can book them online). They’re more expensive than public transport but can save you quite a bit of time. I recommend confirming prices and schedules once you’re there, but in 2023 there were two daily departures to Kuala Besut Jetty (the pier where the boats to the Perhentian Islands leave from) at 8:00 and 15:30, 115 MYR per person; Cameron Highlands at 10:00 and 14:30, 90 MYR per person; and finally Kuala Lumpur at 10:00 and 14:30 for 90 MYR per person.
Where to Sleep in Taman Negara National Park?
As mentioned, most travelers sleep in Kuala Tahan, which is literally on the other side of the river from the park. I took a room at Fatehah Inn, a nice and very cheap guesthouse with friendly staff. If you want, you could sleep inside the park, but honestly, costs aside, I don’t really see the point.
Ipoh
Ipoh, the capital of the Malaysian state of Perak, is a city known for its colonial charm, street art and delicious food. An interesting destination if you want to step a little off the classic tourist circuit, maybe breaking up the journey to the Cameron Highlands or George Town.
Graffiti in Ipoh.
What to Do and See in Ipoh
The small historic center is really compact and you can easily get around it on foot. This is also where you’ll find the murals painted by Ernest Zacharevic, the same Lithuanian artist who conquered the streets of George Town. Unfortunately, they’re mostly in terrible condition; anyway, some of the most popular ones are An Old Uncle Drinking Coffee (Google Maps), A Paper Plane (Google Maps), Motor Wall Art (Google Maps), Hummingbird (Google Maps), Evolution (Google Maps) and Old Town Relieves Nostalgia with Trishaw (Google Maps).
I also recommend stopping by Little India (Google Maps) and Mural Art’s Lane (Google Maps). As for food, I recommend stopping by Restaurant Haji Yahya (Google Maps) and then grabbing an egg tart across the street (Google Maps).
Temples
Around the city there are some noteworthy temples, which have the peculiarity of being located inside the many natural caves. I went to Perak Tong (Google Maps), which houses over 40 Buddha statues and lots of murals. Inside the cave there’s a steep staircase leading to the top of a hill, offering a panoramic view of Ipoh. The cave also contains the tallest and largest Buddha statue in Malaysia.
Another popular temple is Kek Look Tong (Google Maps). I haven’t been there personally, but if you decide to go, there’s a series of temples nearby that you can easily visit on foot: Sam Poh Tong Temple (Google Maps), Perak Guanyin Cave (Google Maps), Nam Thean Tong Temple (Google Maps) and finally Ling Sen Tong Temple (Google Maps).
Perak Tong Temple.
Kellie’s Castle
Kellie’s Castle (Google Maps), half an hour from Ipoh, is the abandoned mansion of a wealthy Scotsman, famous because it’s said to have secret passages and ghost sightings. I haven’t been there, so I can’t comment, but it seems to be a relatively popular excursion. Admission costs 5 MYR; if you use Grab, make sure the driver waits for you, because it can be hard to find one for the way back.
Finally, Kledang Hill (Google Maps) has a series of trails popular with locals. I haven’t been there and honestly I don’t think it’s anything special, but a taxi driver recommended it to me.
Where to Sleep in Ipoh?
I stayed at Dé Cafe & Rest House and I recommend it. Central location, comfortable and clean. If you’re interested, you can also use the café on the ground floor as a coworking space.
How to Reach Ipoh?
If you’re arriving from the south, that is from Kuala Lumpur, or from the north, like George Town, I recommend taking the train (official website). The trains are new, comfortable, clean and cheap. Plus, the station is right in the center (Google Maps). The new bus station, on the other hand, is far from the center (Google Maps), which is all the more reason to take the train. In any case, Grab isn’t that expensive, and if you want there are public buses connecting the terminal to the city center; you’ll find the schedules on Google Maps.
Graffiti in Ipoh.
Cameron Highlands
This mountainous region, about 200 km north of Kuala Lumpur, is famous for its tea plantations and its really pleasant climate compared to the scorching heat that characterizes most of the country.
With altitudes ranging from 1,135 m to 1,829 m, it’s in fact the highest region in the country that can be reached by road and, given the altitude, night temperatures can get close to 10°C, which can be really pleasant!
Tea plantations in Cameron Highlands.
What to Do and See in the Cameron Highlands
Many of the attractions are located around Tanah Rata and Brinchang, the two villages that host most of the accommodations in the Cameron Highlands.
Jungle Trekking
Trekking is one of the most popular things to do in the Cameron Highlands, so much so that many people come just for that. The trails are generally well marked and can therefore be followed on your own (to be on the safe side, download Organic Maps). Around Tanah Rata and Brinchang there are trails for pretty much every fitness level, and they’re numbered from 1 to 14.
Unfortunately, except for trail number 10, for a few years now all the others have required a day permit, which costs 10 MYR and has to be obtained at the forestry office (Google Maps). In practice there’s nobody checking along the trails, but the signs are there, and if you get caught you risk a hefty fine.
If you’re short on time, I recommend doing trail 10, so you don’t even have to pay for the day permit. The trail starts at this spot; the old access no longer exists because of a construction site (All Trails). I recommend it because, besides a good dose of “jungle trekking”, you cross a tea plantation (Google Maps), so you kill two birds with one stone! Once you get to the plantation, you could head back to Tanah Rata walking along the road, where finding a taxi shouldn’t be too hard, and hitchhiking is always an option.
Another nice loop you can do starting on foot from Tanah Rata is the one described on this page (All Trails). If you like, you can cut it short by taking trail number 5 instead of number 8. This one (All Trails) is a slightly shorter version.
Finally, if you want a less crowded mossy forest (a forest characterized by a dense presence of moss), check out the trail that goes up to Mount Siku Peak (All Trails). To get there you have to rent a scooter, arrange a taxi or hitchhike.
Robinson Falls.
Other Attractions
The most popular Mossy Forest (Google Maps) is extremely commercialized, and considering that this fascinating type of forest can be seen elsewhere nearby, I’m not convinced it’s worth it.
In any case, in recent years the locals seem to be “forcing” all tourists to take a Jeep, for about 60 MYR per person, to go up the main road. Even if you decide to walk up to the actual Mossy Forest, maybe taking trail number 1 (Google Maps), which you’ll find described here (All Trails), the rangers only allow visits on guided tours, at least in 2024. I suggest reading some more recent reviews or asking once you’re there; things might change in the future, although personally I doubt it.
That said, the whole area is very scenic, with vast tea plantations you can see along the road and lots of viewpoints, like this one (Google Maps) and this one (Google Maps), just to name a few.
Other popular activities include visiting the butterfly farm (Google Maps), where you can see not only butterflies but also many kinds of insects, like the stick insect; admission costs just 10 MYR. Then there are lots of businesses that let you visit their facilities, where they produce things like tea, strawberries and roses.
Finally, although I don’t think it’s necessary at all, there are loads of guided tours that include all the main attractions and make getting around a lot easier, especially if you don’t plan to rent a scooter. They cost about 100 MYR.
Mossy Forest.
Where to Stay in the Cameron Highlands?
De’Native GuestHouse is a nice place surrounded by greenery just outside Tanah Rata. Almost every evening there’s a dinner with all the guests, and then everyone sits around the fire. Basically a great, extremely social atmosphere; the only flaw is that it could maybe use a bit of maintenance. On my most recent visit I stayed at The Rustique Guest House: the atmosphere is definitely less social, but the location is excellent, the rooms are cheap and the owner is a wonderful person.
How to Get to the Cameron Highlands?
There are direct buses both to Kuala Lumpur in the south and to Penang in the north, but also to other destinations such as nearby Ipoh or Jerantut (Taman Negara National Park). As always in Malaysia, if you want to book online I recommend Easybook. If you’re interested, at the Tanah Rata bus station (Google Maps) you can rent a scooter right away for your stay in the Cameron Highlands.
Tea plantations in Cameron Highlands.
Pangkor Island
Halfway between Kuala Lumpur and Penang, this small island is far less known than Penang and Langkawi, especially among foreigners, but it’s popular with locals on weekends; the rest of the week the beaches empty out and make way for an authentic atmosphere, with fishing villages that have changed very little over the past 50 years.
It has some of the nicest beaches on the west coast of the peninsula; if you’re looking for a destination off the classic tourist itinerary, this island is definitely worth considering. To get there, there are frequent boat connections from the town of Lumut, which has plenty of buses every day from both Kuala Lumpur and Penang.
For things to do on the island, I recommend taking a look at this article.
Penang (George Town)
Penang is an island in the north of Malaysia, connected to the mainland by two bridges. Penang is also the name of the state whose capital, Georgetown, is on the island. It’s a really fascinating city, rich in history and in a culture born from the fusion of Indian, Malay and Chinese cultures, all within a city that was long administered by the British, who left a big mark on the architecture of the colonial buildings.
Blue Mansion.
What to Do and See in Penang
The city is really compact and easy to explore on foot. I recommend literally getting lost in the streets of the historic center, hunting for the hundreds of murals (here you’ll find a complete list) and, of course, admiring the architecture of the many colonial-era buildings. The standout is probably the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, also known as the “Blue Mansion”. The mansion is now a hotel, but daily tours to visit it are offered. The guided tour lasts about an hour and all in all I recommend it, but it has to be booked at least a few days in advance. I haven’t been there, but another often-recommended visit is the Pinang Peranakan Mansion (Google Maps).
One of the many murals on the streets of Georgetown.
Penang Hill (Bukit Bendera)
It’s the hill that overlooks the city (Google Maps), and the view from up here is excellent. I recommend going up in the late afternoon so you can see the panorama both in daylight and with the city lit up at night.
There’s a convenient funicular train (Google Maps) that goes up to the top, where there are a couple of facilities, including restaurants, temples and more. The ride takes about 5 minutes and costs 30 MYR round trip; it runs from 6:30 to 21:00 every day. To get to the train station you can take a taxi or the public bus (schedules and routes on Google Maps). If you want, you can also walk up (Google Maps). Especially if you decide to go up by funicular, avoid weekends and public holidays if you can, because you risk standing in line for hours.
View from Penang Hill.
Kek Lok Si Temple
I saw hundreds of temples during my trip through Asia, but this one is really impressive (Google Maps). It’s the largest Buddhist temple in Southeast Asia. You can literally spend hours exploring it. Thanks to a sort of cable car/elevator (3 MYR) you get a great view of the city, in the company of a gigantic statue of Kuan Yin (goddess of compassion), a whopping 36 meters tall! If you want to save money, you can walk up.
You can reach the temple entrance by taxi or by bus; you’ll find routes and schedules on Google Maps.
Penang National Park
Finally, if you want to spend a few hours relaxing, the island has a few beaches that aren’t bad in the northwest, inside Penang National Park; in any case, don’t expect anything heavenly. Admission costs a hefty 50 MYR. During my last visit, it wasn’t possible to reach Monkey Beach (Google Maps) on foot, only by boat, for a whopping 100 MYR. If you like, you can walk to Turtle Beach, also known as Pantai Kerachut (Google Maps), where, however, you can’t swim because of the jellyfish. There is, though, a small information center (Google Maps) where you can often see turtles.
Finally, if you want to take some fun photos, visit the Upside Down Museum.
Part of the huge Kek Lok Si Temple.
Where to Sleep in Penang?
Some Place Else is an excellent, recently opened hostel in an excellent location near the center. If you’re traveling light, you can easily walk from the port where the ferry arrives. There’s also a large coworking room, in case you’re interested.
How to Reach Penang?
If you’re arriving from Ipoh or Kuala Lumpur, I recommend taking the train (official website) to “Butterworth Penang Sentral” (Google Maps). In any case, the bus station is well located too, since it’s literally right next door (Google Maps). Both stations are connected to the Ferry Terminal (Google Maps), where there are frequent connections to Georgetown; the schedules are on Google Maps too. The ferry crossing takes about 10 minutes and you can pay for the ticket by card; it costs 2 MYR. The same goes in the opposite direction from the Georgetown Terminal (Google Maps).
From the island of Langkawi to the north there are daily ferry connections. If instead you’re arriving overland from Thailand, so without going through Koh Lipe and Langkawi, you first have to get to the well-connected city of Hat Yai, which also has direct train connections to Bangkok if you need them. From Hat Yai you can go for a direct transfer offered by any agency in town or do it yourself. In that case, there are a couple of train connections to the border town of “Padang Besar”, or minivans that leave frequently from the bus station. Once you’ve crossed the border, there are both trains and buses to Penang. On this page you’ll find loads of information. Finally, Penang has a fairly busy international airport with good fares.
George Town World heritage day.
Langkawi
Just a couple of hours by ferry from Penang lies this archipelago of 99 islands in the Andaman Sea, on the border with Thailand. It’s a popular destination for spending a few relaxing days on the beach and taking advantage of the many duty-free shops on the island (alcohol is particularly cheap).
What to Do and See in Langkawi
The island isn’t exactly gigantic, but to enjoy it to the fullest I strongly recommend renting a scooter to explore it in complete freedom.
Sky Bridge (Suspension Bridge)
This is probably the most popular attraction on the island: a 125-meter-long suspension bridge 660 meters above sea level (Google Maps). To get there you have to take a cable car (55 MYR) to an intermediate station, from where you have two options: take another elevator for 15 MYR or continue on foot for about ten minutes, paying 5 MYR.
The 360-degree view of the island is nothing short of breathtaking, and so is the feeling of walking on a suspension bridge at that height. Although it’s not exactly a budget activity, I recommend it. I recommend combining the visit to the bridge with the nearby Telaga Tujuh (Seven Wells) waterfall (Google Maps); the parking lot for the waterfall is less than a kilometer from the one for the cable car up to the suspension bridge, and to get there you just walk for about ten minutes through the forest. Not particularly impressive, but definitely worth it.
The Langkawi Sky Bridge.
Beaches
The most popular beach, which is also where most of the accommodation is, is undoubtedly Pantai Cenang (Google Maps). The beach isn’t bad, but it’s nothing heavenly, and it’s also particularly crowded. My advice is to hop on a scooter and head north; the two most beautiful beaches are Tanjung Rhu (Google Maps) and Pasir Tengkorak (Google Maps). If you want to see something unusual, go to the “black beach”, Pantai Pasir Hitam (Google Maps).
Night Market
It’s a traveling market that changes location every night. You can eat typical food at great prices or buy local products. Ask your accommodation where it is that day and, if you can, stop by!
Finally, a day tour of the many surrounding islands, with activities like snorkeling, is extremely popular. I didn’t do it myself, but I was told it’s not bad at all.
Where to Sleep in Langkawi?
Soluna GuestHouse: look no further, and try to book in advance, because this place is always full. The prices are excellent and so is the place itself; the location is a stone’s throw from the beach and at the same time away from the chaos. One of the two partners is an extremely kind and helpful young Italian woman.
How to Get to Langkawi?
There are daily ferry connections to the paradise island of Koh Lipe in Thailand and to Satun on the mainland, from where you can continue to any other destination in Thailand. To the south there are frequent connections with the island of Penang. Langkawi also has an international airport with really attractive fares; for example, flying back to Kuala Lumpur is often better value than the bus+ferry combination, both in terms of time and money.
Perhentian Islands
The Perhentian Islands are another archipelago near the border with Thailand, but this time on the opposite side of the Malaysian peninsula, along the east coast.
Turtle Bay in the Perhentian Islands.
What to Do and See in the Perhentian Islands
I haven’t personally been to the Perhentian Islands, but they’re widely considered to be among the best places in the world for snorkeling and diving.
The two main islands are Pulau Perhentian Besar (“Big Perhentian Island”) and Pulau Perhentian Kecil (“Small Perhentian Island”). Kecil attracts more travelers because it’s slightly cheaper, while Besar is generally more expensive and attracts more families.
The smaller islands, on the other hand, like Susu Dara, Seringgi and Rawa, are uninhabited and part of the marine park.
Basically, if you’re looking for a place to relax, enjoy the beach and do some diving or snorkeling in a heavenly setting, look no further. Here you’ll find an excellent guide dedicated to diving. Quite a few travelers recommended OhLaLa Divers to me as cheap accommodation and a dive center. Apparently, if you dive every day, they include accommodation for free. I was also told that there are no ATMs on the island, so it’s a good idea to arrive with a good amount of cash. Finally, more than a few people told me that the cost of the various diving certifications is extremely competitive, as low as on Koh Tao if not even lower.
How to Reach the Perhentian Islands?
The gateway to the Perhentian Islands is the town of Kuala Besut, where the ferry connecting the archipelago to the mainland leaves from (Google Maps). For information on how to reach Kuala Besut by public transport, take a look at this article.
Malaysian Borneo
The gigantic island of Borneo, divided between Malaysia, Indonesia and the tiny Sultanate of Brunei, is still relatively untouched by mass tourism, and it’s one of my favorite regions in Southeast Asia.
The usual itinerary starts in Kuching and ends in Semporna, or vice versa. Generally speaking, the most practical and cheapest way to get to Borneo is via Kuala Lumpur/Singapore (but also check out flights from Penang!), from where there are lots of flights every day to and from the main cities in Borneo.
Orangutan, Borneo’s iconic animal.
Kuching
Kuching is the capital of the state of Sarawak, as well as the largest city in Malaysian Borneo. Still, it’s a relatively small city and an excellent base for exploring what the Sarawak region has to offer.
Sarawak Legislative Assembly.
What to Do and See in Kuching
The city itself isn’t particularly interesting, but make sure you walk along the river (Google Maps) and cross the famous S-shaped Darul Hana bridge (Google Maps). On the other side of the bridge, I recommend stopping by the Orchid Garden (Google Maps): admission is free and the garden is very well kept, definitely worth a visit. I went in the morning right when it opened and there was practically nobody there. To escape the heat, I then recommend going to the Borneo Cultures Museum (Google Maps); admission costs 50 MYR, but if you want you can pass yourself off as a student, they didn’t ask any of us for proof. The museum was built recently and I found it very interesting.
Darul Hana Bridge.
Semenggoh Nature Reserve
Here you can see orangutans (Google Maps); sightings are practically guaranteed all year round, since the animals are fed by the park rangers. The November-February period is considered less favorable because fruit is abundant in the jungle and the animals basically find food on their own.
Semenggoh Nature Reserve.
In any case, the animals are fed every day from 9:00 to 10:00 and then in the afternoon from 15:00 to 16:00. Admission costs 10 MYR and you have to register on the official website; if you have a SIM card you can do it on the spot, otherwise you could do it before you arrive. I recommend taking the K6 bus (Google Maps) at 7:20, which costs just 1 MYR; get off at the park entrance (Google Maps) and walk about 1 km to the area where the orangutans are fed. If you don’t want to walk, there’s a paid electric shuttle that runs back and forth on this last stretch for 15 MYR. I walked and still got to the feeding area by 8:30; the ranger was already feeding one of the orangutans, and when the crowd arrived ten minutes later, it left.
To get back to Kuching, take the number 103 bus at 10:00, which is also free! If instead you want to stay longer, in theory the K6 comes by at 11:00, but I recommend confirming. If you’re not a morning person, you can attend the afternoon session; the bus should leave Kuching at 13:15 and return at 16:00. Obviously, Grab is always an option.
Semenggoh Nature Reserve.
Bako National Park
The park is just 45 minutes by bus from Kuching and is home to an extraordinary diversity of flora (including some carnivorous plants!) and fauna, as well as of landscapes, in a relatively small area where the rainforest meets the sea. Here, with a bit of luck, you might spot the rare proboscis monkeys and numerous other species of primates (about 150 species in total!).
Unfortunately, during my visit a big part of the park was closed to the public for maintenance work, including the famous two-day hike to the beach at the far eastern end of the park. In any case, the staff provide maps and precise instructions on the trails you can do on your own. I literally did all of them during my 2-day, 1-night stay. All in all, I also recommend the guided night walk for 15 MYR.
Sunset in Bako National Park.
For Bako National Park too, you have to register on the official website before your visit. Admission costs 20 MYR. If you decide to sleep inside the park, I recommend booking your accommodation at least a few days in advance, especially in high season (official website). The restaurant at the park headquarters isn’t that bad and the prices are fair.
You can easily get to the park by public transport: the line to take is number one; the bus leaves every hour from 7:00 in the morning onwards from this spot (with several stops along the river) and takes about an hour to reach Bako market. Opposite the market is the visitor center (Google Maps), where you register and get all the relevant information, pay the entrance fee (20 MYR) and arrange the boat to the park (200 MYR to split among the number of people, maximum 5); the trip takes about 20 minutes. The last boat should leave at 15:00.
Bako National Park.
Fairy Caves and Wind Caves
Fairy Caves (Google Maps) and Wind Caves (Google Maps) are unfortunately tricky to reach by public transport; the easiest option is to rent a scooter. Personally, after visiting the caves in Mulu National Park, I didn’t feel the need to go and see two more just a few days later, but it can undoubtedly be a nice way to spend the day.
Mount Santubong and Sarawak Cultural Village
The evening before the day I was supposed to climb Mount Santubong, it poured for hours. Reading various comments online, I found out that the trail not only becomes dangerous, but the rangers often don’t even allow the climb, so I preferred not to risk a pointless trip. It still seems like an interesting hike worth considering. There are two possible trails, which you’ll find described here (All Trails) and (All Trails).
A short distance from Mount Santubong is the Sarawak Cultural Village (Google Maps). It’s a living museum featuring traditional houses, cultural shows and activities of Sarawak’s indigenous communities. I haven’t been there, so I can’t comment, but if you decide to go, you’ll save a bit by buying your ticket online on the official website, and I think it could be an interesting visit. From what I understand, there are also free shuttles leaving from the Grand Margherita Hotel (Google Maps).
Borneo Cultures Museum.
Gunung Gading National Park
Gunung Gading National Park (Google Maps) is about two hours from Kuching. I met some people who went there paying a driver 300 MYR for the whole day. If you want, you could rent a scooter. There are a few waterfalls, and you can see the rafflesia (the largest flower in the world) if you catch the flowering period. These guys described the park to me as “nothing special”, so I decided not to go, but it’s still an option for a day trip out of town.
Where to Sleep in Kuching?
I spent a couple of nights at Sunset Homestay – Backpacker Hostel: it lacks a bit of a hostel atmosphere, but the location is excellent and all in all I recommend it. On my way back from Bako National Park, I spent a night at Marco Polo Guest House; the location is less central, but the staff are really friendly and it’s definitely a more sociable environment. I recommend this one too.
How to Reach Kuching?
Whether it’s Miri, Mulu National Park (with Maswings) or Peninsular Malaysia, I recommend flying; if booked in advance, flights are really cheap. In any case, the only real overland connection worth considering is the night bus to Miri, which you can book on Easybook if you like. To and from the airport you can take bus 103: it’s free, but it takes a very long detour, and unless you’re on an extremely tight budget, you’ll get there much faster by taking a Grab.
Viper in Bako National Park.
Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.
Miri
Miri is usually the next stop on a Borneo itinerary. The city is mainly used as a base for exploring the famous Gunung Mulu National Park and the less touristy Kelabit Highlands. Honestly, if you’re short on time, I think you’d be better off flying from Kuching or Kota Kinabalu directly to Mulu National Park. If, on the other hand, flights with a stop in Miri turn out to be cheaper, or you simply want to visit Brunei, then passing through Miri can make sense.
Miri.
What to Do and See in Miri
In the morning, you could head up to Canada Hill and take the obligatory photo of The Grand Old Lady (Google Maps), which was Malaysia’s first commercial oil well, drilled in 1910. The well played a significant role in the development of the oil industry in Malaysia and contributed to Miri’s growth as an oil town. Next to it there’s a museum dedicated to the oil industry that you can visit for free (Google Maps).
The Grand Old Lady.
In the afternoon, you could go up to the roof of City Hall (Google Maps). I didn’t go because I visited Miri over a weekend that ran into a public holiday, so it was closed, but from what I was told entry is free, you just have to register at reception. It closes at five, so after taking in the view you can head to Coco Cabana to watch the sunset (Google Maps). In the evening there was also a night market on the square, but maybe that was because of the weekend/holidays. Finally, you could visit the Lian Hua San San Ching temple (Google Maps). Unfortunately it was closed for the holidays, so I only saw it from the outside.
Where to Sleep in Miri?
I stayed at Super OYO 976 Dragon Inn, not exactly cheap but not that bad either, considering there aren’t any truly cheap options in Miri.
How to Reach Miri?
As mentioned, overland there are buses to and from Kuching, which you can book on www.easybook.com. There used to be direct buses to Bandar Seri Begawan in Brunei before Covid, but at least during my visit they hadn’t resumed service yet. Here’s an article that’s updated frequently with the various options. I made the trip with Pauline, who went way beyond my expectations: it took us 5 hours, but we stopped for breakfast and lunch (she paid!!), visited a luxury hotel and the area where the refineries are. She’s a really kind person and great company, and she also speaks excellent English.
Lian Hua San San Ching.
Gunung Mulu National Park
The park is famous for its karst terrain and its curious rock formations above and below the ground. In fact, inside the park you’ll find the largest known cave system in the world (around 12 million cubic meters), and within it the tenth longest cave in the world, discovered only in 2007.
Mulu National Park.
What to Do and See in Mulu National Park
Unfortunately, many treks—and all cave visits—require the presence of a certified guide. That said, the prices of the excursions are very reasonable if you book directly through the official website. The park itself organizes a variety of tours and excursions, which you can find listed on this page.
In short, my advice is to reach the park independently and arrange your guided tours through park headquarters (ideally by contacting them a bit in advance, as some of the less popular tours require a minimum number of people). So avoid outside agencies: this way, you not only support the park directly but also save money. The entrance pass costs 30 MYR and is valid for 5 days.
Below are the excursions I personally did, but the options are really extensive, so I recommend checking the official website for a complete overview.
Deer Cave.
Deer Cave, Lang Cave, and the Bat Exodus
If you’re short on time, I recommend doing at least this excursion, which you’ll find described on this page. Long story short, setting off on foot from park headquarters you visit two impressive caves, and the tour ends with the fascinating exodus of the bats that come out at sunset to hunt. A really nice tour and accessible to everyone, since inside the caves, as well as along the jungle trail, there’s a well-maintained system of walkways.
Again, if you’re short on time and looking for excursions that aren’t too demanding, I recommend the Night Walk and the Canopy Walk.
Deer Cave.
Clearwater Cave and Wind Cave
These are the other two caves equipped with walkways that I recommend visiting. To reach them, you need to go upriver by boat. You’ll find the tour described in detail on this page. If you decide to do the Pinnacles trek I talk about below, it’s good to know that you can combine the two tours, as many people do (yours truly included). Basically, in the morning you visit the two caves and then, instead of going back to headquarters, you continue on to the campsite, where you spend the night before tackling the trail to the Pinnacles.
Wind Cave.
The Pinnacles
The Pinnacles are perhaps the most iconic sight in the entire park. You’ll find a detailed description of the hike on this page. The hike is normally completed in 3 days. As I just wrote, on the first day you can choose to visit Clearwater Cave and Wind Cave before continuing along the river (if the river’s water level is low you might have to get out of the boat, so maybe wear flip-flops) and walking for about 2 hours to “camp 5,” where you spend the night. On this page you’ll find the detailed AllTrails description of the entire route (trail to the campsite + trail to the viewpoint).
The campsite is well equipped and there’s a kitchen where you can cook; at the shop inside park headquarters you can buy trekking provisions like noodles, cans of tuna/sardines, cookies, etc. That said, if you’re traveling on a particularly tight budget, I think it’s worth doing your shopping before flying to Mulu.
Sunset at camp 5.
The next day you climb for about 4 hours to the viewpoint; the last stretch is quite “technical,” with ladders and so on, and then it takes about 3 hours to get back down. The trail is really steep and never lets up, and combined with the heat and humidity it’s definitely not to be underestimated. We spent a second night at the campsite and went back to headquarters the following day, but if you’re on a private tour, or all the members of your group agree, you could head back in the afternoon and avoid a second night at camp 5.
As a side note, if you want, you can combine the Pinnacles hike with the Mulu Peak one, which you’ll find described on this page (All Trails). According to the guides I talked to, although it’s less popular, Mulu Peak seems to be the most beautiful hike, and you’re much more likely to see wildlife, since the trail is less busy and in general you’re in a more remote area of the park.
The Pinnacles.
Racer Cave
There’s a series of tours categorized as “Adventure caving,” where you basically visit caves, or at least sections of caves, that aren’t equipped with walkways or lights. You’re given a harness, since there are sections where you have to climb up/lower yourself down, but nothing too complicated. I found the tour really nice and fun. We even saw the snake the cave is named after. If you’re looking for a bit of adventure, I think it’s an interesting option. As a side note, the guide I did the Racer Cave excursion with told me that, in his opinion, Clearwater Revival is more beautiful.
The Pinnacles.
Paku Valley loop
The Paku Valley Loop (All Trails) is a short loop you can do on your own starting from park headquarters; it takes about three hours, and if you want you can take a dip at the small waterfall. Technically, you have to register at the park entrance where the security post is: you just write your name and start time on the board. Nothing exceptional, but definitely a nice way to spend a few hours immersed in the park’s nature without having to spend a cent.
Finally, just so you know, as for SIM cards, during my visit Celcom had no signal inside the park, only around the airport. According to the official website, Digi has signal at headquarters too.
Paku Valley loop.
Where to Sleep in Mulu National Park?
Here you’ll find a couple of cheap places to stay just outside the park entrance, but personally I recommend staying right inside the park, where you’ll find various types of accommodation (official website). I stayed in the hostel, which isn’t bad at all: prices are fair and breakfast is included. The restaurant isn’t bad at all either. Finally, if you’re looking for some relief from the scorching heat, the Discovery Centre is air-conditioned and the small museum is quite interesting, with loads of information about the park’s geology, flora and fauna.
How to Reach Mulu National Park?
To get to the park I recommend flying. There are flights from Kuching, Miri and Kota Kinabalu. The airline that operates the flights is MASwings. From the small airport I walked to the national park headquarters, but if you prefer there are taxis for 5 MYR. If instead you want a more adventurous journey, you can get there by boat, but it’s a relatively long trip and not necessarily cheaper. You’ll find more information on this page.
Bat exodus.
Kelabit Highlands
It’s another popular destination for nature lovers, located near the border with Indonesia on a plateau at an altitude of about 1,000 meters.
Here too, the region is extremely remote and best reached, once again, with the airline MASwings (the main airport is “Bario”).
The most popular activity here is by far trekking: you can do various day hikes or hire a local guide and head into the jungle for several days. Here’s an article.
Brunei
Obviously, being an independent country, Brunei shouldn’t be part of this Malaysia travel guide, but since it’s on the way between Miri and Kota Kinabalu, it may be worth spending a couple of days exploring the capital: Bandar Seri Begawan. Check out my Brunei travel guide.
Brunei.
Kota Kinabalu
Kota Kinabalu is the capital of the state of Sabah, in northern Borneo. The city is growing fast, and its airport is the second busiest in Malaysia thanks to really good fares. It’s no coincidence that for many people their Borneo itinerary ends or begins right in Kota Kinabalu.
Sunset at the port of Kota Kinabalu.
What to Do and See in Kota Kinabalu
For many travelers the city is purely a crossroads for exploring Borneo, but there are lots of really interesting attractions in the surrounding area. In Kota Kinabalu proper, I recommend stopping by the floating mosque (Google Maps) and the night market (Google Maps), and maybe heading to Tanjung Aru Beach (Google Maps) for the sunset.
If you decide to rent a scooter, you could go to Ulu Kionsom Waterfall (Google Maps), just outside the city, and to the nearby Mari Mari Cultural Village (Google Maps). I only went to the waterfall, where they charge 10 MYR, so I don’t know whether the cultural village is worth it or not. You could then end the day at Swallow House Cafe (Google Maps), which has a nice view with Kota Kinabalu in the background. If you decide to ride up to the café, be careful, because the road is extremely steep in places.
Ulu Kionsom Waterfall.
Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park
A group of 5 islands (Gaya, Manukan, Sapi, Sulug and Mamutik) located a few kilometers off the mainland where the city stands (Google Maps). The boat ride takes only 15-30 minutes: you just take a speedboat from the Jesselton Point ferry terminal (Google Maps). Inside the terminal you can choose from a number of companies that basically all offer the same packages. One island 35 MYR, two islands 45 MYR, three islands 55 MYR and four islands 65 MYR. Departures roughly every hour from 8:30 onward, last boat back at 16:00. Park entry costs 25 MYR for foreign tourists. For another 10 MYR you can rent a mask and snorkel right at the port.
In one day I recommend visiting two islands at most. I went to Manukan and Mamutik and preferred the latter, smaller and less crowded. A friend who visited them all over several days told me that in his opinion Sapi is by far the most beautiful.
Mamutik.
Mount Kinabalu
Mount Kinabalu (Google Maps), at 4,095 meters, is the highest mountain in Malaysia and one of the highest in all of Southeast Asia. Reaching the summit is definitely no walk in the park, let alone cheap, but if your budget allows it, it’s without a doubt a nice experience.
Unfortunately, the only way to do it is on an organized tour which, depending on the accommodation (there are four different huts) and the agency you choose, can cost even more than 500€ for foreigners, who pay a whole series of surcharges, from park entry to the overnight stay. The climb is typically done over two days and the price includes pretty much everything, but it’s still no small sum.
On the trail.
I organized everything with Borneo Encounter (Google Maps). Olivia is a really kind person who speaks excellent English, but the most important thing is that the agency offers great prices, if you’re a little flexible and take advantage of last-minute cancellations. I stayed at Panar Laban hut, paying “only” 1,600 MYR for the two-day, one-night tour.
Long story short, on the first day you walk for about four hours to the area where the four huts are. The next morning you wake up in the middle of the night (around 2 a.m.) to reach the actual summit in about 3 hours and watch the sunrise. You then go back to the hut for breakfast and after that you descend to the valley (All Trails). It’s all really nice and well organized; a maximum of 200 permits are issued per day, so apparently it’s never too crowded. The trail is well maintained, with toilets along the way, and the buffet meals at the hut aren’t bad at all.
Ascent under a starry sky.
Basically, there’s nothing to complain about, if it weren’t for the price. Personally, I don’t regret doing it, but if you’re on a tight budget, I can’t really recommend it. On top of that, the weather is unpredictable to say the least: the stretch from the hut to the summit is often closed for safety reasons, so you also risk shelling out a fortune only to be told you can’t go up. I myself ended up completely wrapped in clouds just after sunrise.
Sunrise from the summit.
Where to Sleep in Kota Kinabalu?
I spent several days at Capsule Inn: great value for money, kind and helpful staff. If you’re looking for cheap accommodation, look no further. That said, some friends were staying at Homy Seafront Hostel, and objectively it’s a nicer hostel.
How to Get to Kota Kinabalu?
By air, there are daily and not too expensive flights both from Peninsular Malaysia and from other destinations in Borneo, including Mulu National Park. Overland, the closest destinations are Bandar Seri Begawan in Brunei to the south, to which there are buses three times a week with Sipitang Express Bus on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, which you can book on www.easybook.com. The same bus runs in the opposite direction on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.
To and from Sandakan to the east, there are buses several times a day, a 7-8 hour bus ride that you can book on www.easybook.com. If booked in advance without checked luggage, the flight to Sandakan might even be cheaper than the bus.
Panorama during the descent.
Tip of Borneo Loop
This is a pretty good scooter loop that you can complete in 4-5 days, starting and ending in Kota Kinabalu. You spend a couple of days between Kundasang and Ranau at the foot of Mount Kinabalu and then a couple of days in Kudat, the region where the northernmost point of Borneo is. Here there are some really nice beaches that are still far from mass tourism.
All in all, it’s something I recommend, but if you’re literally short on days you’d probably be better off doing something else. I rented the scooter from Scooter Rabbit (Google Maps) and was happy with it. If you want, Kudat as well as Kundasang and Ranau can also be reached by public transport, but as far as I know there’s no direct connection between Kundasang/Ranau and Kudat, so if you want to complete the loop without going back to Kota Kinabalu you have to have your own vehicle.
Sunrise in Ranau.
Kundasang and Ranau
As mentioned, these are the two towns on the plateau at the foot of Mount Kinabalu. They offer a relaxed atmosphere, a pleasant temperature and fantastic views of Mount Kinabalu.
What to Do and See in Kundasang and Ranau
If you’ve decided not to climb to the summit of Mount Kinabalu, you could still explore the national park. From the headquarters (Google Maps) there are a number of trails you can do on your own. I didn’t go to this side of the park, except to climb to the summit. Anyway, a couple of friends described them to me as nothing exceptional and often not well maintained, as in the case of the Liwagu Trail (All Trails), which seems to have been closed for quite a while. Still, if you want to spend a few hours immersed in nature, I doubt you’ll be disappointed. For foreigners, park entry costs 50 MYR. Here are two more examples: Silau-Silau Trail (All Trails) and Mempening Loop (All Trails).
Langganan Waterfall.
I personally visited the side where the Poring Hot Spring is (Google Maps). The hot springs are nothing special, I’d almost say pitiful, but you can do a nice trek to Langganan Waterfall (All Trails), and for those who don’t feel like walking too much there’s a canopy walk (Google Maps), a small botanical garden and another, more accessible waterfall (All Trails). To do all this, you enter the national park and pay 50 MYR plus 3 MYR for scooter parking.
Nobody checks, but officially, although a guide isn’t required, to hike to Langganan Waterfall you have to enter the park before 10:00 and tell the staff where you buy the ticket what you plan to do. It took me just under two hours to go up at a good pace and a little over an hour to come down. The trail is well maintained. That said, in the reviews many people complained about leeches, and in fact I pulled off more than a few, but nothing excessive. The waterfall is spectacular, and I met fewer than five people along the trail.
Kipungit Waterfall.
Viewpoints
There are loads of viewpoints offering great views of Mount Kinabalu. I only went to Sosodikon Hill Kundasang (Google Maps): they charge 10 MYR and ask you to come down by 18:00 if possible, but they weren’t strict at all. Not far away there’s Piramid Hill (Google Maps), where you have to walk a bit more.
Maragang Hill (All Trails) is perhaps the most popular, especially at sunrise, but unfortunately you have to be accompanied by a guide and register at the office in town (Google Maps). The same goes for the AKI-AKI trail (Google Maps).
Finally, there are a number of botanical gardens where, with a bit of luck, you might see the rafflesia (the largest flower in the world), and I recommend calling first to make sure there are some in bloom. At the hostel where I stayed, they recommended the Kokob Rafflesia Conservation Garden (Google Maps).
Sosodikon Hill.
Where to Sleep in Kundasang and Ranau?
I stayed one night at Ranau Backpackers Hostel, nothing special but cheap and functional.
How to Reach Kundasang and Ranau?
Some people decide to visit the area as a day trip by scooter from Kota Kinabalu, but honestly I’m not convinced it’s worth it; I’d spend at least one night there. By public transport, the bus is the same one that goes to and from Sandakan, which you can book on www.easybook.com, or there are minibuses that leave from this spot (Google Maps).
Sosodikon Hill.
Tip of Borneo (Kudat)
There are loads of beaches along the coast; I particularly recommend Kelambu Beach (Google Maps) and above all the beach where Secret place bar & camping is (Google Maps), a really nice place to spend the day lazing around. Restaurant with fair prices, swings, lots of shade, a clean beach and very friendly staff.
Kalampunian Beach (Google Maps), further north, is another popular beach, and here there’s also a really cheap little restaurant where I recommend eating: Ina Cafe (Google Maps).
Finally, The Tip of Borneo (Google Maps) is nothing special, but since you’re there I still recommend stopping by; entry is free. There’s a monument and a series of viewpoints.
Secret place bar & camping.
Where to Sleep in Kudat?
I stayed at Tampat do Aman. Howard, the owner, is a really kind and helpful person. The place has definitely seen better days, but I’d still recommend it. On top of that, if you don’t have your own vehicle, Howard is willing to drop you off at the beach in the morning and pick you up in the afternoon, which is really convenient.
How to Reach Kudat?
As mentioned, I went by scooter from Ranau, but here are the instructions Howard gave me: “To get here, the best way is to take a shared taxi from Banderaan Berjaya (Google Maps), in downtown Kota Kinabalu, heading to Kudat, get dropped off at the Ria hotel and call me on WhatsApp so I can send a local taxi driver. Kota Kinabalu – Kudat RM 50 per person and from Kudat RM 50 for 2 people.”
Kalampunian Beach.
Sandakan
The city is nothing special. It’s not that I regret passing through, but in fact, as I write in the “where to sleep” section, you could consider staying directly in Sepilok, since there’s really nothing to do in Sandakan. That said, if you’re interested, you could organize the excursion to Turtle Islands National Park (Google Maps). Here’s a detailed article about it. A couple of friends who did the tour weren’t particularly enthusiastic, especially considering the cost. Personally, I decided to skip it, mostly for lack of time, but it can definitely be an interesting excursion to organize from Sandakan.
Sepilok.
Sepilok
In Sepilok, just outside the city, is the famous orangutan sanctuary (Google Maps). If you decide to stay in Sandakan, there are at least a couple of buses going back and forth during the day; I recommend checking locally. During my visit I took the 9:00 one and came back on the 16:00 one; it costs 10 MYR. The station is at this spot (Google Maps), but there are stops along the road: I, for example, got on in front of the hostel where I was staying. Alternatively, you can always take a Grab. Entry to the sanctuary costs 30 MYR plus another 10 MYR for the camera. The orangutans are fed at 10:00, so you’re practically guaranteed to see them, after which I recommend visiting the nursery (Google Maps). Of course, seeing orangutans is always nice, and I absolutely recommend the visit if you’re in Borneo, but if you’ve already been to Semenggoh in Kuching or plan to go, I think one of the two sanctuaries is more than enough.
I then went into the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre, which is literally on the other side of the road (Google Maps). Entry for foreigners costs a whopping 50 MYR; in my opinion that’s really too much to see a few sun bears, but at least the money should be used for what is a nice conservation project.
Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre.
Finally, you could visit the Rainforest Discovery Centre (Google Maps), where there are a number of trails, suspension bridges and walkways that let you immerse yourself in the rainforest. There’s also a small visitor center with some interesting information. Entry costs 30 MYR. The minibus back to Sandakan has a stop in front of the entrance, so you can simply wait here around 16:00 without having to go back to the orangutan sanctuary.
The various “attractions” are a short distance from each other, so you can easily get around on foot; for lunch there are at least a couple of restaurants, like Mango Garden Restaurant (Google Maps) and White House Bistro (Google Maps).
Rainforest Discovery Centre.
Kinabatangan River
At 560 kilometers long, the Kinabatangan River is the second longest river in Malaysia, as well as the natural habitat of pygmy elephants, orangutans and the rare proboscis monkeys, just to name a few of the species you might come across. Along the river there are loads of lodges that more or less all offer the same packages: besides room and board, they include a couple of boat trips along the river to spot wildlife and a night walk.
Crocodile.
At the time, I was traveling with two other guys who had already booked a lodge, so I just followed them without making a fuss, and I have to say that all in all I’d recommend it. We stayed at Borneo Natural Sukau Bilit Resort (booking through Asia Green Travels) for two nights and three days, paying 411 MYR each for the air-conditioned dorm and excellent buffet meals. Personally, I didn’t see the elephants (but I met more than a few travelers luckier than me!), but on the other hand I saw a wild orangutan, a couple of crocodiles, more than a few hornbills and loads of other monkeys. All in all, a nice experience.
Other lodges often recommended among travelers are Bilit Adventure Lodge and Sukau Backpackers B&B.
Wild orangutan.
Where to Sleep in Sandakan?
I stayed at Sandakan Backpackers Hostel and I recommend it. That said, there’s nothing to see in Sandakan, so you could consider staying directly near Sepilok, for example at Sepilok B&B.
How to Reach Sandakan?
To and from Kota Kinabalu there are several daily bus departures, which you can book on www.easybook.com. I want to point out that if you’re traveling with carry-on luggage only and book in time, the flight can literally cost less than the bus! There are also direct connections south toward Semporna, but at least during my visit you couldn’t book them online.
Kinabatangan River.
Danum Valley
Danum Valley is a conservation area known for its rich biodiversity. The protected area covers 438 square kilometers and is home to endangered species like the Bornean orangutan and the pygmy elephant. Accommodation is limited to the Danum Valley Field Centre, which serves as a research station, and a few eco-lodges like the luxurious Borneo Rainforest Lodge.
I didn’t go, because between the Mount Kinabalu climb and diving at Sipadan, Borneo had already put my backpacker budget to the test enough. I did, however, get to spend a few days with a Dutch guy who had just spent a few days at the Field Centre when I met him. According to him, the accommodation is very basic and you mostly go on hikes in the forest “hunting” for wildlife. If you’re interested, through the contacts on their Facebook or Instagram pages you should be able to contact the Field Centre directly and bypass third-party agencies, which inflate the prices even more.
Kinabatangan River.
Semporna
Semporna is probably one of the ugliest cities I’ve seen in Malaysia, but it’s a must-stop for anyone who wants to visit the islands off the city, including the famous Sipadan. The various dive centers in Semporna offer extremely competitive prices for diving certifications. During my visit, the Open Water cost around 1,200 MYR.
Sipadan Island
The island is often named among the best dive sites in the world. Objectively, the two dives I did weren’t bad at all, but just the island entry plus the dive permit costs around 90€ for foreigners (official website). On top of that, you have to add the price of the actual dives plus the boat transport. A bit like Mount Kinabalu, if you’re on a tight budget I can’t really recommend it: for the price of the permits alone, you can do a couple of equally spectacular dives somewhere else in Southeast Asia.
There are 13 sites on the island, but you usually do Barracuda Point and South Point, where you can see a school of barracuda and a school of jackfish respectively. Unfortunately, I didn’t see the barracuda school, just a few isolated ones, while the school of jackfish is practically guaranteed. I also saw more than a few reef sharks and a couple of turtles. Other recommended sites are Hanging Garden and then a “blue dive” where you can see hammerhead sharks, but I don’t remember the name of the site.
I haggled relentlessly with the owner of Mabul Backpackers at the office they have at the Semporna jetty (Google Maps) and ended up paying 1,300 MYR for two dives at Sipadan, two dives at Mabul, two nights in the dorm at Mabul Backpackers and the various boat transfers. Finally, I want to point out that Sipadan permits are limited and sell out especially on weekends, so if you really care about it, I recommend organizing everything a few days in advance.
Mabul Island.
Mabul Island
If you want to spend a few days of “island life,” Mabul offers quite a few places to stay and a much more pleasant atmosphere than Semporna. Many of the dive centers here have a second base, so you can organize dives at Mabul, nearby Kapalai and even Sipadan. As I write further down in the “where to sleep” section, I spent a few nights at Mabul Backpackers, and all in all I recommend a few days on the island, especially if you want to do some diving, but also just to snorkel, rent a kayak or simply laze in the sun. I also spent an afternoon at Mabul Water Bungalows (Google Maps). They charge 30 MYR to enter the resort as a visitor, and you get access to the white beach next to Mabul Backpackers (Google Maps), but also to the area with the overwater bungalows, where there’s a nice spot for snorkeling or just relaxing.
Mabul Island.
Island hopping tour
If you don’t feel like staying on the island, or maybe you want to visit some other islands nearby, day trips by boat are offered from Semporna. I didn’t join any of these tours, so I’m not speaking from direct experience, but according to what some friends told me, the excursions aren’t bad at all.
The first option is Bohay Dulang island (Google Maps), where there’s a really nice viewpoint you reach at the end of a short hike. After that, you visit Mantabuan (Google Maps). They charge about 150 MYR for the excursion with lunch, plus another 50 MYR to hike up to the viewpoint. The second option is the excursion to Mataking Island (Google Maps) and Timba Timba Island (Google Maps), where there’s great snorkeling. Here too they charge 150 MYR. Finally, there are tours that visit Mabul island and Kapalai.
Where to Sleep in Semporna?
In Semporna town I stayed at Island Backpackers and all in all I recommend it: clean place and great location, a stone’s throw from both the bus station and the port where the tours/transfers to the islands leave from. Kind and helpful staff. Breakfast included. On Mabul island I stayed at Mabul Backpackers: the dorm is awful and I don’t recommend it, but the sea-facing rooms with air conditioning aren’t bad at all.
How to Reach Semporna?
To and from Kota Kinabalu there are direct connections several times a day and at night too; on my hostel’s advice I traveled with Sentosa Express, and you can book directly online on www.easybook.com. To and from Sandakan there are direct connections, but at least during my visit it wasn’t possible to book online; these are the same buses you have to take if you’re along the Kinabatangan River and want to go straight to Semporna without going back to Sandakan. The lodge booked the bus for us and they dropped us off at the bus stop on the main road.
Finally, there are minibuses to and from Tawau airport for 30 MYR. This is the closest airport to Semporna and offers direct flights to Kota Kinabalu, Kuala Lumpur, Sandakan and even a couple of international destinations.
Masjid Bandaraya Kota Kinabalu.
Possible Itineraries in Malaysia
Below I list possible 2, 3 and 4-week itineraries. Obviously, take what follows as inspiration and adapt the itinerary to your interests/budget, and remember to take into account the time of year you’re visiting the country. For example, visiting the Perhentian Islands outside the March-October period isn’t recommended at all: the sea is generally very rough, and many accommodations/businesses close down too!
Two-Week Itinerary in Peninsular Malaysia
This itinerary focuses exclusively on the peninsula, so without visiting Borneo. A few simple changes to this itinerary based on your interests could be visiting the Perhentian Islands from Penang and maybe skipping Langkawi, a day trip to the city of Melaka and a couple of days in Taman Negara National Park. Or combine everything for a 3-week itinerary in Peninsular Malaysia.
Kuala Lumpur (2 nights)
Day 1:
Recover from jet lag and admire the Petronas Towers and KL Tower at night.
Day 2:
Visit downtown Kuala Lumpur and the Batu Caves.
Cameron Highlands (3 nights)
Day 3:
Bus from Kuala Lumpur to the Cameron Highlands. Visit the small town of Tanah Rata.
Day 4-5:
DIY jungle trekking, visit a tea plantation or two, the butterfly farm, the Sam Poh temple, or join any other activity.
Penang (3 nights)
Day 6:
Bus from the Cameron Highlands to Penang. Enjoy the city in the evening.
Day 7:
Spend the morning hunting for the city’s best murals. Head up Penang Hill in the afternoon and stay until evening to see the city lit up at night.
Day 8:
Visit the Kek Lok Si Temple and the Blue Mansion.
Langkawi (4 nights)
Day 9:
Ferry from Penang to Langkawi. Enjoy the rest of the day at the beach.
Day 10:
Visit the Seven Wells waterfall and the Sky Bridge.
Day 11-12:
You could easily spend your days lazing on the beach or, for example, join a tour of the nearby islands.
Day 13:
Return to Kuala Lumpur.
Day 14:
Fly home.
Two-Week Itinerary in Borneo
Considering that you’ll most likely have to stop over in Kuala Lumpur anyway before heading to Borneo, my advice is to take advantage of it and briefly visit the city. After that, fly to Kuching in the south, or to Kota Kinabalu or Sandakan in the north, depending on which option is cheaper (Airasia is the low-cost airline par excellence). Basically, the itinerary can easily be followed in reverse and, of course, adapted to your preferences!
Kuala Lumpur (2 nights)
Day 1:
Recover from jet lag and admire the Petronas Towers and KL Tower at night.
Day 2:
Visit downtown Kuala Lumpur and the Batu Caves.
Kuching (2 nights)
Day 3:
Fly from Kuala Lumpur to Kuching early in the morning. Visit the Semenggoh Nature Reserve in the afternoon.
Day 4:
Visit Bako National Park.
Mulu National Park (4 nights)
Day 5:
You have several options: you could fly directly to Mulu with MASWings (the most practical option but also the most expensive) or first fly to Miri with Airasia and then take a flight to Mulu with MASWings. Or you could take a Kuching – Miri bus and then either fly or reach Mulu overland, your choice.
Day 6-7-8:
Three days of activities inside the park.
Bandar Seri Begawan – Brunei (2 nights)
Day 9:
Flight Mulu – Miri. Bus Miri – Bandar Seri Begawan.
Day 10:
Explore Bandar Seri Begawan.
Kota Kinabalu (3 nights)
Day 11:
Transfer Bandar Seri Begawan – Kota Kinabalu.
Day 12:
Visit Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park.
Day 13:
Return to Kuala Lumpur.
Day 14:
Fly home.
With three or more weeks available, you could spend a few more days inside Mulu park, a couple of days in the Kelabit Highlands, visit Sandakan or Semporna, or climb Mount Kinabalu, if your budget allows.
3-Week Itinerary in Malaysia
With three or more weeks to spare, you could choose to focus exclusively on one of the two regions (Peninsular Malaysia or Borneo), or combine highlights from both. If you choose the latter, I recommend following the Peninsular Malaysia itinerary up to Penang, and then flying from there to Kuching or Kota Kinabalu.
In this case, to gain a couple of days if you need them, you could fly directly to Mulu from Kuching or Kota Kinabalu, and then fly on to Kota Kinabalu or Kuching, without going through Miri and Brunei. This way you’d travel only by plane, spending a bit more but saving loads of time.
Rainforest Discovery Centre.
How to Get Around Malaysia
Buses in Malaysia
The bus system in Malaysia is efficient, well-connected, and generally the cheapest form of travel within the country, except for long distances, where it’s definitely worth considering domestic flights.
Unless it’s a weekend or a special holiday (I was in Malaysia during Chinese New Year and got stuck for a day at Cameron Highlands because all the buses were full), you can just show up at the terminal without buying tickets in advance and board the first departing bus.
However, if you just can’t stand the idea of not having a ticket in hand already and going to the bus terminal in person the day before is particularly inconvenient for you, you can use Easybook and 12go, keeping in mind that quite often not all the available options are online, and buying online in this part of the world is generally more expensive than buying on the spot.
Trains in Malaysia
The rail network in Peninsular Malaysia is relatively extensive. Generally speaking, buses are cheaper, but with the new high-speed line, train travel can be significantly faster and certainly more comfortable. This is the website of the national company: you just need to register to buy tickets directly online, all very simple. For the most popular routes, such as Kuala Lumpur – Penang (Butterworth Penang Sentral) and Kuala Lumpur – Padang Besar (border with Thailand), I strongly recommend booking your ticket in advance. An interesting route, not so much for speed or efficiency but for the scenery it crosses, is the so-called Jungle Train, which you can read about in this article.
The Jungle train.
Planes in Malaysia
Traveling within the country by air can be extremely cheap, mainly thanks to AirAsia, which offers really competitive fares, especially when it comes to visiting Borneo. However, I also recommend checking the flights of the national carrier, Malaysia Airlines.
When it comes to flights to remote regions within Borneo, such as Mulu National Park and the Kelabit Highlands, MASWings has a monopoly instead. Finally, I’d point out Firefly, another low-cost airline that operates within the country at really good fares.
Taxis in Malaysia
Taxis are widespread throughout the country and are definitely cheap by European standards. However, whenever possible, my advice is to use apps like Grabtaxi and Uber. Besides being efficient, the service is cheaper than regular taxis. In rural areas, or in any case where the meter isn’t used, remember to negotiate the price before getting in, so you avoid pointless arguments once you reach your destination.
Hitchhiking in Malaysia
Hitchhiking is a common practice in Malaysia, especially in rural areas. Personally, I only did it once in the Cameron Highlands, and it took no more than five minutes before a couple of local women picked me up, along with a group of guys I met at the hostel.
Masjid Jamek Mosque.
Travel Costs in Malaysia
How much does a trip to Malaysia cost? Not much. For short trips, the biggest expense is very likely to be the flight. My advice here is to check flights not only to Kuala Lumpur but also to neighboring Singapore, which is just a few hours by bus from Kuala Lumpur, and to Penang, which has a fairly busy international airport.
You might be interested in reading my guide on how to find cheap flights.
Once you’ve arrived, it’s reasonable to expect to spend around 25-30€ per day, especially in Peninsular Malaysia, while in Borneo probably a bit more. All this traveling on a budget, that is: staying in hostels or basic hotels, eating street food or dining in local restaurants, using public transportation (especially avoiding taxis), and steering clear of organized tours whenever possible.
As for the cost of ATM withdrawals, fortunately most local banks don’t charge any fees. So, by using the best travel cards, the cost of getting cash can be reduced to zero.
Finally, if for any reason you want to minimize the use of cash, I’d like to point out that lots of merchants, even if they don’t accept cards, accept QR payments, and using Grab pay you can simply top up your account with your card, so without needing to withdraw cash.
A meal for a couple of euros.
Travel Safety in Malaysia
What are the dangers of traveling to Malaysia? In general, Malaysia, like much of Southeast Asia, is a relatively safe destination, and violent crimes against tourists are extremely rare.
That being said, minor incidents of crime can happen, just like anywhere else in the world. Especially in larger cities, it’s important to use common sense and avoid certain neighborhoods. Personally, I believe Malaysia can be considered a safe country for all intents and purposes. In any case, here you’ll find all my tips for traveling safely anywhere in the world.
A quick note for those who occasionally indulge in smoking joints or other types of illegal substances: the law in Malaysia is extremely strict. Possessing large quantities of drugs can result in the death penalty, while even personal use can lead to several years in prison!
Are you planning a trip to Malaysia? Check out these posts:
Which travel backpack to choose
Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!
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