Thailand Travel Guide
Thailand was likely the first country in Southeast Asia to welcome travelers, and it has now become one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world.
Over the years, some regions have perhaps become overly touristy, but if you’re looking for an exotic, affordable, and safe destination, Thailand is the perfect place to visit. Precisely because millions of tourists visit Thailand every year, traveling within the country is really easy—even for less experienced travelers.
From Buddhist temples, markets and beautiful beaches to the delicious food, Thailand has something to offer for every taste. Over the years I’ve spent about three months backpacking around the country (here you can find the video of my most recent trip, in Italian, but you can turn on the subtitles), and in this guide you’ll find a ton of useful information and tips to plan your trip to Thailand as best you can.
Quick menu
- When to visit Thailand
- Documents and vaccinations to enter Thailand
- What to do and see in Thailand
- Suggested itineraries in Thailand
- How to get around in Thailand
- Backpacking Thailand: costs
- Backpacking Thailand: safety
The Wat Arun temple.
When to visit Thailand
Three seasons can be roughly identified in Thailand: the rainy season (May-October), the “cold” season (November-February), and the hot season (March-May).
The rainy season (May-October) is the least predictable of all. Generally, it rains every day, but these rains are often concentrated during a few hours in the afternoon or at night, with a greater concentration starting in July-August and peaking in September-October.
The “cold” season (November-February) isn’t really that cold. In fact, it’s considered the high season, as well as the best time to go to Thailand, with temperatures that can easily reach 30 degrees Celsius during the day.
The hot season (March-May) is indeed really hot, with temperatures that can exceed 35 degrees Celsius, especially in the cities. If you visit the country during this period, specifically from 13 to 15 April, don’t miss Songkran, known as the water festival: it’s the most important celebration held in Thailand!
There are some regional variations to consider. For example, the southern part of the country is more prone to a rainy season that sometimes lasts into November-December, while in the north, especially in the mountainous areas, temperatures tend to vary more drastically from season to season and even from day to night.
Documents and vaccinations to enter Thailand
Italian passport holders with at least six months of remaining validity who arrive by air (or cross the border by land) receive a free 60-day tourist visa (the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours).
The free 60-day visa can be obtained a maximum of two times during the same calendar year if entering by land or sea. However, there’s no limit if you arrive by air.
In addition to exiting and re-entering the country—doing the classic “visa run”—it’s possible to renew this visa for another 30 days at the immigration office in major cities, resulting in a total of 90 days. This extension costs 1,900 THB (about 50€).
Thailand doesn’t require mandatory vaccinations, but Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B vaccinations are always recommended.
For up-to-date information on visas and everything else, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice). On this page you’ll find the official immigration website, which for once is actually really well made.
What to do and see in Thailand
N.b. Throughout the guide you’ll find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the Alltrails app you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.
In this guide, prices are often expressed in the local currency. The official currency of Thailand is called “Thai Baht” abbreviated as “THB” or simply “B.”
The exchange rate is about 1€ = 38 THB. For the current exchange rate, I suggest you look at this page.
As you can also see from the map, the country can be divided into three distinct regions, with the center and the north of more historical and cultural interest, and the south, home to the famous beaches that made Thailand so famous. So in this guide I’ve divided the various destinations by region, starting from the center of the country.
CENTRAL THAILAND
Bangkok
Bangkok is the capital of Thailand and, with a population of over 11 million, it’s also by far the country’s largest city. The city is characterized by traffic congestion, intense heat and a wild nightlife. But you’ll also find distinctive temples, palaces and markets.
What to do and see in Bangkok
Below, I focus on the main tourist sites, which are primarily royal residences, palaces, and Buddhist temples erected by the Siamese dynasty. If you’re more interested in nightlife, then Khao San Road (Google Maps) is undoubtedly the street to hang out on: there are lots of clubs and bars here, but some people simply stick to drinking the famous “buckets” on the street.
The grand royal palace and the temple of the emerald buddha
The grand royal palace (Google Maps) and the adjacent Emerald Buddha Temple (Google Maps) are probably the two most visited and impressive sites in the city. They can be extremely crowded and I recommend visiting them early in the morning so as to avoid both the heat and the crowds. Plan to spend at least a couple of hours. The most practical and inexpensive (if shared) way to get to the palace is probably a taxi.
Opening hours 8:30-15:30, entrance fee 500 THB (includes both sites).
Wat Phra Kaew temple.
Wat Pho
Wat Pho or Temple of the Reclining/Sleeping Buddha (Google Maps) is located not far from the royal palace and can be easily reached on foot. Once an educational center of traditional medicine and the birthplace of classic Thai massage, it’s now home to a giant 46-meter-long golden buddha enshrined inside an equally impressive temple.
Opening hours 8:00-18:30, entrance fee 100 THB.
Wat Arun
From the riverbank near Wat Pho it’s possible to take the ferry (4 THB) at this point and reach the other bank where Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) is located (Google Maps). This is the tallest temple in the city, and the view once you get to the top is excellent.
Opening hours 8:30-17:30, entrance fee 50 THB.
The sites just listed are the most popular ones and can easily be visited on the same day, since they’re conveniently located really close to each other.
Floating market
I only visited the Damnoen Saduak floating market (which is about 100 km away and is the largest and most touristy). I joined a tour and, all in all, it wasn’t that bad. If you want, you can also visit it on your own as described in this guide. If you want a more authentic experience I recommend looking into other options. You can find a guide on this page.
Damnoen Saduak floating market.
Chatuchak Market
There are many markets in Bangkok but with over 200,000 people visiting it every weekend, Chatuchak Market (Google Maps) is the largest weekend market in the world. There are over 15,000 stalls and 26 sections ranging from food to antiques. Some sections are also open during the week but the entire market is only open on Saturdays and Sundays from 9:00 to 18:00, so I think it’s really worth visiting only on these days. To get there, the easiest and cheapest way is by subway, the “Kamphaeng Phet” stop is literally at the entrance of the market. In any case you can find all the relevant information on the official website.
If you aren’t in Bangkok on the weekend, a nice though certainly not as impressive alternative is the Jodd Fairs night market (Google Maps). Again, this can be easily reached by subway thanks to the nearby subway stop.
Khao Yai National Park
I’ll preface this by saying that I haven’t personally visited the park, which is about three hours north of Bangkok. However, as the second-largest national park in Thailand and a UNESCO site since 2005, it’s definitely worth mentioning.
The park is located along the road that connects Bangkok to Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat). From what I’ve read online, it’s best to get off at Pak Chong, the nearest town to the park entrance. This involves a 3-4 hour bus ride from Bangkok’s Victory Monument.
From Pak Chong, you can rent a motorcycle to explore the park independently or hitchhike, which seems to be relatively easy within the park. Alternatively, you could rent a car in Bangkok.
If you’re interested, you can find an article about the park here. If you opt for an organized tour, I recommend booking it directly once you’re there.
Finally, I recommend visiting Chinatown (Google Maps) which is a really nice place to stroll around especially in the evening. Yaowarat Road (Google Maps) is the main street. If by chance you haven’t had enough temples, I suggest you check out Wat Traimit (Google Maps) close to Chinatown and Wat Saket (Google Maps) not far from Khaosan Road.
Khao Yai National Park.
Where to sleep in Bangkok?
Many people decide to stay around Khao San Road. Personally, when I first visited Bangkok I slept at Mind Day Hostel Khaosan, nothing exceptional but it’s cheap and the location is great, the environment is clean and there’s air conditioning in the room. If budget isn’t an issue, check out Nappark, it won the award for best hostel in Asia in 2011, I got to go there because a friend was staying there and it’s actually really cool.
During my last few visits to Bangkok I always stayed at Ama Hostel and I highly recommend it, modern and clean in a quiet area within walking distance of Chinatown and especially well connected to major public transportation hubs thanks to the nearby subway stop. Another great hostel I recently stayed at is Pinto Hostel.
How to reach Bangkok?
Virtually every destination within the country has direct connections to the capital. If you’re arriving from the airport a taxi to Khao San Road should cost 350-400 THB, with public transportation the fastest method is to take the train to Makkasan Station from where you can board the “BTS” or “Skytrain” and the “MRT” subway that connects downtown Bangkok. You can find an interesting article on how both work here.
Kanchanaburi
Kanchanaburi isn’t part of the typical tourist itinerary and is mainly visited by backpackers looking for a place to relax for a few days. The city itself is unremarkable, but its main attraction is definitely the bridge over the River Kwai, made famous by the movie of the same name.
The bridge is part of the famous Burma-Thailand railway, renamed the Death Railway. In fact, approximately 13,000 prisoners of war died during its construction around World War II, and their bodies were buried along the railway. You can find an interesting article on the history of the bridge and the railway here. Additionally, there are numerous sites in town related to this topic.
The famous bridge on the River Kwai.
What to do and see in Kanchanaburi
Besides seeing the famous bridge there are a number of activities that can keep you busy for a couple of days.
Hellfire Pass
This is a cutting through the mountain, dug practically by hand to make way for the Death Railway, that has been converted into a memorial thanks to Australian government funds. You can follow a short self-guided walking tour (4 km) that starts here (Google Maps) and visit the museum on site (Google Maps). The site is certainly not spectacular but undoubtedly of profound significance; admission is free.
To get to the pass starting from Kanchanaburi, if you wanted, you could take the bus to Sangkhlaburi (50 THB) and get off at the entrance to the memorial and then simply wait for the return bus across the street, the last one should be at 17:00.
Alternatively, you could enjoy the train ride from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok (2 and a half hours) and then take the bus to the memorial (about 20 minutes). Or rent a scooter. If you like, on the same day you could also visit the Hin Dat hot springs (Google Maps) located about 40 km further north, also along the main road connecting Kanchanaburi to Sangkhlaburi.
Erawan Falls
Erawan Falls (Google Maps) are considered among the most beautiful waterfalls in Thailand. There are a total of seven levels and to explore them all takes at least a couple of hours, admission costs 300 THB. You can follow the stream all the way up to the seventh level of the falls (Google Maps).
To reach them, there’s the public bus 8170 that leaves from the Kanchanaburi terminal (you can catch the bus along the main road, ask at your accommodation) about every 50-60 minutes from 8:00 to 17:00, 50 THB, about 90 minutes. Try to leave early to avoid the tourists.
Alternatively you could rent a scooter. Besides having more freedom, if shared it’s also cheaper than the bus.
Part of the Erawan Falls system.
Where to sleep in Kanchanaburi?
Asleep Hostel is a great hostel with a relaxed atmosphere, a neat and clean environment and great value for money.
How to reach Kanchanaburi?
From Bangkok there are several options, the public bus (line 81) departing from the south terminal (Sai Tai Taling Chan) (Google Maps), with departures about every 20 minutes, 2-hour trip. There are also tourist minibuses leaving from Khao San Road at 13:30 and 18:30.
Ayutthaya
Founded in 1350, Ayutthaya became the second capital of the Siamese Empire after Sukhothai. Over the centuries, due to its strategic location, it first became the commercial capital of the Asian continent and around 1700, it was the largest city in the world with about one million inhabitants.
Today, very little remains of what must have been the splendor of its golden years, but numerous temples and palaces, the only buildings constructed of stone during that period, are still visible.
From Bangkok, the city can even be visited on a day trip.
Ruins of the Wat Chaiwatthanaram temple in Ayutthaya.
What to do and see in Ayutthaya
The main archaeological area is located on the island in the center of the city and is best explored by bicycle (40-50 THB) or, for the lazier among us, you can also get around by tuk tuk. By bike you can also ride off the main island, where there are other sites of interest.
Upon arriving at the bus terminal (located off the island), you could rent a bike directly, but it’s preferable to take a tuk tuk to the center of the island, specifically to Wat Maha That (Google Maps), from where you can begin the following itinerary that covers the main buildings (admission to the various temples generally costs 50 THB):
Wat Maha That: Famous for having a buddha head wrapped in trees (Google Maps).
Wat Ratchaburana: One of the best preserved temples, it’s possible to go down inside the crypt (Google Maps).
Wat Thammikarat: This temple is still used by monks, and there are hundreds of rooster statues that the locals bring as offerings following a legend about a rooster fight during which a Burmese prince was defeated by an Ayutthayan one. Near the temple is also a building with a reclining Buddha inside (Google Maps).
Wat Phra Ram: Not the most impressive temple, but since it’s often snubbed by major tours, it’s possible to explore it at leisure (Google Maps).
Wat Phra Si Sanphet: This was the city’s most important temple (Google Maps).
If you like, your tour of Ayutthaya can end here. As mentioned above, these are all sites within the main island, but outside the island, there are numerous other sites. The most impressive, in my opinion, are Wat Phu Khao Thong (Google Maps) and Wat Chaiwatthanaram (Google Maps) and you could also cycle all the way to Queen Sri Suriyothai Memorial, which isn’t too far away and less busy. Here there’s a monument dedicated to the queen (Google Maps), built in 2000.
Lopburi
I’ll preface this by saying that I haven’t personally been there. Nevertheless, it’s one of the oldest cities in Thailand and served as its capital for a time.
The city is famous for the hundreds of crab-eating macaques that live within the old city, where all the major historical sites and the train station are located. Being only an hour’s train ride from Ayutthaya, it could make for a great day trip to see something different.
Here you can find a short guide about it.
Macaques at the Lopburi ruins.
Where to sleep in Ayutthaya?
If you decide to spend the night here and perhaps continue your trip north without returning to Bangkok then Early bird Hostel is a great place to stay right in the center of the island, good price and breakfast included. It also offers bike rental.
How to reach Ayutthaya?
From Bangkok-Hualamphong station (Google Maps) the train is the cheapest and most scenic way to reach the city. The trip takes about two hours and in third class (seats aren’t guaranteed) costs only 15-20 THB, while in second class with air conditioning it’s 250-350 THB.
By bus from the north terminal Mon Chit (Google Maps) there are departures about every 20 minutes, 50-60 THB, about 2 hours.
NORTHERN THAILAND
Sukhothai
Sukhothai is now a small city of about 30,000 inhabitants in north-central Thailand, but it was the first capital of the Siamese Empire and still retains many temples and monuments dating back to the 13th century.
What to do and see in Sukhothai
Sukhothai Historical Park (Google Maps) is situated about 12 km west of New Sukhothai and is one of Thailand’s UNESCO World Heritage sites. The park, which covers approximately 70 square kilometers, is renowned for its well-preserved ruins of the ancient Sukhothai Kingdom. You can reach the park by local bus or songthaew (shared taxi) from New Sukhothai. Bicycles can be rented at the entrance for around 30-60 THB per day, making it easier to navigate the large area.
The park is officially open from 6:00 to 18:00 every day. It’s divided into three main zones: Central, Northern, and Western. Each zone requires a separate entrance fee of 100 THB, with an additional 10 THB for bicycles, 30 THB for motorcycles, and 50 THB for cars.
While the official opening time is 6 in the morning, if you arrive slightly earlier you can enter for free. Similarly, entering the park just before closing time, particularly after 17:30, lets you get in for free to watch the sunset.
Central Zone: This is the most visited area, featuring the iconic Wat Mahathat (Google Maps), the largest and most important temple in the park, known for its impressive Buddha statues and intricate architecture. It’s also a very popular spot for sunrise. Other notable sites in this zone include Wat Si Sawai (Google Maps), Wat Sa Si (Google Maps), and the King Ramkhamhaeng Monument (Google Maps).
Northern Zone: The Northern Zone houses Wat Si Chum (Google Maps), famous for its large seated Buddha, and Wat Phra Phai Luang (Google Maps), which dates back to the pre-Sukhothai era and features significant Khmer architectural influences.
Western Zone: This zone is less frequented due to its dense forest and fewer prominent ruins, with Wat Saphan Hin (Google Maps) being a notable exception. Getting to this temple takes a short uphill walk and the view from up there is really beautiful, but if you’re short on time you can skip it.
Sukhothai ruins.
Where to sleep in Sukhothai?
Aenguy Hostel is a good hostel in the center of the new town, breakfast is included in the price. Perfect Resort Sukhothai offers cheap private rooms.
How to reach Sukhothai?
From the Mo Chit terminal in Bangkok (Google Maps) it’s about 6-7 hours. From the Arcade terminal in Chiang Mai (Google Maps), on the other hand, it’s about 4 hours.
Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai is considered the most important city in northern Thailand and the most visited. With over 1 million people in the metropolitan area, it’s the country’s fifth largest city. Surrounded by forests and mountains, it’s home to many expatriates and digital nomads who prefer it to the more chaotic Bangkok.
What to do and see in Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai is particularly famous for its giant night market (Google Maps) that takes place every night where you can find literally anything. If you’re around during the weekend you might consider visiting two other markets, the one along Wualai Street on Saturday (Google Maps) and along Ratchadamnoen on Sunday (Google Maps), which are considered by some to be more “authentic.”
The old city, which is easily recognizable as it’s bordered by a canal and in some places by the remains of ancient walls, is easy to visit on foot and – just for a change! – there are numerous temples that can be visited (over 300 in and around Chiang Mai). The most popular are Wat Phra Singh (Google Maps) and Wat Chiang Man (Google Maps) but there are many others scattered in and around the city. In any case, here you’ll find an exhaustive list with photos and details.
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
This is considered the city’s iconic temple and is located on top of a hill, about 15 km outside the city (Google Maps). You can reach it by scooter, taxi, or even aboard a Songthaew (the red pickup trucks with benches in the back) that leave regularly just outside the zoo or, alternatively for the more active, you can walk up in about two hours following the “monks’ trail” (All Trails).
Admission to the temple costs only 30 THB and it’s open to the public from 8:30 to 15:30. The temple itself is really impressive, and so is the view over the city.
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep temple.
Visit an elephant sanctuary
I want to clarify that I haven’t personally visited any elephant sanctuary, especially given the numerous stories of mistreatment and terrible living conditions of these animals. However, it must be said that some facilities use far more ethical practices than others and focus exclusively on caring for and rehabilitating these creatures; in some cases you can even volunteer.
I encourage you to do your own research, and I’ll leave you the link to this facility, which had been recommended to me by some guys I met.
The Chiang Mai canyon
What is now called a canyon is essentially a former quarry filled with water. It’s located just outside Chiang Mai and is an extremely popular place to spend a relaxing day, escaping the heat of the city (Google Maps).
It’s absolutely not a must-see attraction, but it’s definitely a great way to spend a day jumping off the “canyon” walls or just soaking up the sun. There are also several restaurants. I went there by scooter but I’m sure it’s also possible to get there by taxi/Songthaew; entry costs 50 THB.
Update: This place has changed significantly since my first visit. They now charge 800 THB, but the area is filled with inflatables, and they also offer wakeboarding. While it looks like a lot of fun, it’s not exactly cheap.
Finally, I went to Huay Tung Tao Lake (Google Maps), which, however, I didn’t find all that exciting. Other popular activities in and around Chiang Mai are cooking classes and excursions to the nearby Doi Inthanon National Park and the Bua Thong Falls (Google Maps).
The Chiang Mai canyon with some guys from the hostel.
Where to sleep in Chiang Mai?
Potae’s House is a great, really cheap hostel a stone’s throw from the city center. Jeune Hostel is another great hostel just outside the center, only three dorms, extremely quiet and clean, laundry costs only 30 THB then you can hang out your clothes on the terrace.
How to reach Chiang Mai?
From Bangkok it’s about 12 hours by bus, 400-800 THB depending on the type of service, it’s also worth taking a look at flights especially with Nok Air as they can be really cheap. Train is the cheapest option by far but it’s almost 16 hours of travel. From Sukhothai it’s only 4 hours while from Chiang Rai it’s about 3 hours.
Pai
For years just a small village lost in the mountains of northern Thailand, it first became a popular destination, especially among hippies, and is now a popular stop on travel itineraries around the country. Although tourism has increased considerably over the years, the atmosphere remains fairly relaxed.
The village is also one of the stops on the “Mae Hong Son loop”, which is really popular especially among motorcyclists and connects Chiang Mai, Pai and other destinations in the region; here you’ll find a really detailed article.
What to do and see in Pai
You don’t have to be a hippie to enjoy your stay in Pai. There are numerous interesting activities to explore in the surrounding area. My advice is to rent a scooter for maximum freedom of movement. There’s very little traffic, so even less experienced riders should have no problem getting around.
Pai Canyon (Kong Lan)
It’s located about 8 km from Pai (Google Maps) and, rather than a canyon, it’s a red earth ridge up to 50 meters high with forest as a backdrop on both sides. There are a number of trails to follow and some viewpoints from which the view of the surrounding area is excellent.
It’s not exactly the Grand Canyon but it’s definitely worth a visit, count on spending a couple of hours there at most, I recommend visiting in the late afternoon so you can watch the sunset from here, admission is free. Another popular place to watch the sunset is the Two Huts Pai bar (Google Maps) while at dawn many decide to go to the Yun Lai Viewpoint (Google Maps).
Sunset at Pai Canyon.
The Pai waterfalls
There are three waterfalls around Pai:
Mo Paeng (Google Maps) is the most popular. Here it’s possible to ascend to the second level of the waterfall and then descend by sliding down the rock. Mae Yen (Google Maps) is the “hardest” one to reach as, if you reach the beginning of the trail by scooter, the walk is 4-5 hours round trip. If you start walking from Pai instead, add at least an hour; the waterfall is certainly not impressive but the walk is pleasant.
Finally Pam Bok (Google Maps) is located not too far from the canyon. You have to walk a short distance but nothing too challenging.
N.b. Ideally, you should visit the falls at the end of the rainy season as they are much less impressive during the dry season.
The Pai hot springs
At Tha Pai Hot Springs (Google Maps), don’t expect any fancy facilities: there are simply pools where the thermal water meets the cooler water of a stream, making the temperature more bearable, and you can also have mud baths. Admission costs 300 THB. If you’re looking for something more polished, I recommend visiting the resort nearby (Google Maps); you can use the facilities without necessarily staying the night, and entry costs 150 THB.
Tham Lod Cave
This giant cave system (Google Maps) is located about forty minutes by scooter from Pai. The road through the mountains is really scenic and the cave itself is fairly impressive. Inside there are a series of wooden boardwalks that allow you to go deeper into the caves. There are also “guides” more than willing to take you inside and show you all the curious rock formations. If you wish, you can board rafts made of bamboo and travel along the watercourse that flows inside.
Update: Guides seem to be mandatory now. 1 cave = 300 Baht, 2 caves = 500 and 3 caves = 600 for a group of up to three people.
To wrap up, I recommend stopping by Boon Ko Ku So, a bamboo bridge (Google Maps) across the rice fields that leads to a small Buddhist temple, really beautiful to photograph! Finally, in the evening stop by Pai Circus (Google Maps): it’s a hostel on top of a hill just outside Pai where every night there’s a great party atmosphere, complete with fire shows just like a circus, and you don’t need to stay at the hostel to get in.
Entrance to Tham Lod cave.
How to reach Pai?
To reach Pai basically you have to go through Chiang Mai where there are public buses (only one at 7:00 in the morning, 80 THB) and minibuses (150 THB) that leave frequently. You can also arrange a “pick up” directly from your accommodation. It’s a 3-4 hour drive along a really scenic road, and that’s why many people decide to make the trip by motorbike. You can find a guide on this page.
Where to sleep in Pai?
UP2U Guesthouse is a great budget place to stay just outside the center.
Chiang Rai
Less touristy than Chiang Mai, it’s a great destination if you’re looking for something more authentic in northern Thailand. Chiang Rai has a relaxed atmosphere and some interesting attractions, including some contemporary Buddhist temples that are really different from others in the country.
What to do and see in Chiang Rai
Although it doesn’t reach the size of Chiang Mai’s market, Chiang Rai’s Evening Bazaar (Google Maps) is definitely worth a visit, both for classic shopping and for eating delicious street food.
The temples of Chiang Rai
The three most impressive (and touristy) temples are:
The White Temple (Wat Rong Khun) is definitely the symbol of Chiang Rai: it’s a modern temple covered with thousands of pieces of glass that give it a truly unique look (Google Maps). What makes it really unusual is the presence of several murals with images of “Hello Kitty” and “Neo” from The Matrix, just to name a few… seeing is believing! In the middle of the garden there’s also a statue of one of the characters from “The Predator”! Here you’ll find an interesting article.
The temple is open daily from 8:00 to 17:00, admission costs 100 THB, and to get there just take the public bus from platform 8 of the station, about 30 minutes, 20 THB.
The Blue Temple (Wat Rong Suea Ten) (Google Maps) is still under construction but has the main span completed. It’s another example of contemporary art with a more restrained style than the White Temple.
Entrance is free but it can’t be reached by public transportation, so rent a scooter or take a tuk tuk.
The Black House Temple (Baan Dam Museum) (Google Maps) is technically not even a temple although it definitely has the features of one. It’s a building that is part studio and part museum. It too is the creation of a local artist.
It’s open daily from 9:00 to 17:00 (closed from 12:00 to 13:00), admission costs 80 THB, and to get there just take the public bus from platform 5/6 of the station, about 30 minutes, 20 THB. From the stop it’s about 500 meters.
Another interesting temple that not many people visit is Huay Pla kang, which is slightly outside the city and can be reached on foot if you like, but it’s better to have a scooter; I recommend it especially at sunset.
The White Temple of Chiang Rai.
Mae Salong
It’s a small village located about 40 minutes from town in the mountains surrounding Chiang Rai, offering excellent views of the valley below. Founded in 1949 by Chinese rebels, the village still retains a strong influence.
While there isn’t much to do in the village itself, the road to get there (I recommend renting a scooter) is really scenic and passes through tea plantations, and I think you can join some educational tours like this one and this one. It’s definitely a great way to spend a day exploring the surroundings of Chiang Rai on a scooter.
Phu Chi Fa
Two hours east of Chiang Rai, along the border with Laos, is a mountain range that offers some very impressive views of the valley below and the Mekong River. The best time to admire this view is at sunrise when clouds/fog often form at low altitudes creating a very striking effect.
The most popular viewpoint is definitely the one at Phu Chi Fa, although Phu Chi Dao, Doi Pha Tang and Phu Pha Sawan – from what I’ve read – are great alternatives. This isn’t a cheap experience at all because it’s impossible to reach any of these places by public transportation. So you have to rely on organized tours or private transportation, or alternatively take the bus during the day, spend the night in a guest house and return the next day.
To wrap up, lots of treks around the city are offered from Chiang Rai, with stays in local villages and various activities; the options range from a single day to three days and two nights.
Sunrise at Phu Chi Fa.
Where to sleep in Chiang Rai?
Mercy Hostel is a great hostel with nice common areas and air conditioning in the dorms. Stay in Chiang Rai is another great option, slightly cheaper and not far from the station, with exceptional staff and a great breakfast included in the price.
How to reach Chiang Rai?
It’s good to know that there are two terminals in Chiang Rai, the first one in the center (Google Maps) is the domestic one and serves destinations within the region, plus Chiang Mai, with the Green Bus company, while the second one is about 7 km outside the city and serves mainly more distant destinations within the country (Google Maps). There’s a songthaew (minibus) that connects the two terminals frequently, 15 THB.
N.b. From Chiang Rai (if you wish you can also arrange the transfer from Chiang Mai and Pai) it’s possible to cross the border into Laos aboard a “slow boat”. It’s a trip that many people make and it’s said to be a nice experience (I haven’t done it); I’ll leave you the link to this page where everything is explained in detail.
Chanthaburi
Chanthaburi isn’t exactly a tourist destination, but I think it’s an interesting destination especially for those who want to break the trip from Cambodia to the Koh Chang archipelago.
Wat Pailom.
What to do and see in Chanthaburi
The area known as the Waterfront (Google Maps) has a lot of historic buildings, and the riverside setting makes it especially nice. I also recommend visiting Chanthaburi Cathedral (Google Maps) and Wat Pailom (Google Maps), a temple complex not far away.
Waterfront.
How to reach Chanthaburi?
From Bangkok there are direct buses leaving from Ekkamai terminal (Google Maps). Toward the Cambodian border at Ban Laem there are four daily departures, 8:00, 11:00, 14:00 and 17:00, the trip takes about 1:30 and I really think the minivan comes back shortly after so adjust accordingly if you want to travel in the opposite direction. 200 baht. If you arrive from Koh Kood or Koh Chang, there are songthaews at the pier waiting for boats and ferries to arrive and take you to Trat station for 70 baht, from Trat station for 80 baht there are frequent minivan departures to Chanthaburi.
Where to sleep in Chanthaburi?
I slept at Chernchan Hostel and I recommend it. Literally one of the nicest hostels I’ve slept in in Thailand and amazingly, given Chanthaburi’s lack of popularity as a destination, I was the only guest in the dorm!
Chanthaburi Cathedral.
SOUTHERN THAILAND
Southern Thailand can be divided into two regions:
- West Coast (Andaman Sea): This region is generally more developed, particularly around Phuket, which is famous for its numerous resorts and popularity as a destination for organized travel. The west coast also tends to experience a longer and more intense rainy season.
- East Coast (Gulf of Thailand): This region has fewer islands but benefits from a shorter rainy season, making it pleasant to visit almost year-round.
Below, I list some of the most accessible and popular islands and archipelagos. Of course, listing them all is unthinkable—there are almost 1,500 of them!
White Sand Beach, Koh Chang.
Koh Chang Islands Archipelago
This archipelago, consisting of a group of islands near the border with Cambodia, is less popular and well-known than the islands further south. I spent almost two weeks between Koh Chang and Ko Kut (also known as Koh Kood), and I must say that I was pleasantly surprised, particularly with Ko Kut. Other islands in the archipelago include Koh Mak, the third largest island, which is completely private and owned by a group of families that promotes sustainable tourism, as well as Koh Wai and other smaller islands that are mostly visited on day trips.
What to do and see on Koh Chang
Koh Chang, the largest island in the archipelago and the third largest in all of Thailand, is relatively developed and certainly attracts a good number of tourists each year. However, it’s large enough to offer plenty of uncrowded beaches. The best beaches are all along the west coast and are very similar, especially in being very narrow at high tide. The ideal way to get around is to rent a scooter, which starts at 200 baht a day.
Lonely Beach, Koh Chang.
The beaches of Koh Chang
White Sand Beach (Google Maps) is the northernmost of all and perhaps my favorite. The most convenient access I’ve found is this place (Google Maps).
Klong Prao Beach (Google Maps): you can leave the scooter at this point (Google Maps) and walk on. Chai Chet Beach (Google Maps), just north of Klong Prao Beach (technically I think it should be considered the same beach): you can leave the scooter at this spot (Google Maps) and walk on. Kai Bae Beach (Google Maps): you can literally leave the scooter along the beach at this point (Google Maps). From any of these three beaches you can easily reach the two islets you can see offshore, Koh Rom and Koh Suwan. I haven’t been there but apparently the snorkeling isn’t bad at all.
Sunset at Lonely Beach.
Finally Lonely Beach (Google Maps), whose most practical access, as is often the case, is through a resort: park here (Google Maps) and walk on. This is the most popular beach among backpackers. It’s wider than the others but, in my opinion, less attractive. In the evening, or anyway around happy hour, there’s quite a lot going on, or at least much more than on the other beaches.
Kai Bae Beach, Koh Chang.
The waterfalls of Koh Chang
There are several noteworthy waterfalls on the island, the most popular being Klong Plu Waterfall (Google Maps), which, however, being within the national park requires an entrance fee of 200 baht – which for the record is five times what locals pay. I haven’t been there but was told it’s extremely crowded during the day so if you decide to go, try to arrive early in the morning. The other waterfall within the national park is Than Mayom Waterfall (Google Maps), where, from what I read, you can’t even swim.
Khlong Nonsi Waterfall.
The waterfall I recommend visiting is Khlong Nonsi Waterfall (Google Maps). I arrived in the morning around nine o’clock and there was no one there; entry is free and it’s really pretty. Don’t stop at the first waterfall, continue along the path on the left to the main waterfall!
Klong Jao Leuam Waterfall (Google Maps) on the other hand disappointed me a bit: it’s a series of tiny waterfalls (seven, according to the signs) that aren’t really impressive, and to make matters worse at a certain point the path becomes really difficult to follow, so much so that I couldn’t get to the last level, which on Organic Maps is marked as “level 7”. The entrance costs 40 baht. The last stretch of road is unpaved, but nothing impossible by scooter.
Kai Bae Waterfall (Google Maps) is my favorite and also the closest to the area where most people decide to stay. At this spot (Google Maps) there’s a parking lot where you’re required to pay the 40 baht entrance fee. From there it’s a 15-20 minute walk to the falls. I arrived early in the morning around 8:30 and had it all to myself. Recommended!
Kai Bae Waterfall.
Boat excursion with snorkeling
I haven’t taken part in any tours; however, I imagine they aren’t bad at all, especially if you haven’t done any other snorkeling in Thailand. The most popular itinerary appears to be the half-day tour that takes you to Koh Yakyai, Koh Rang Beach, Koh Maping, and Koh Yak Lek. It costs about 600 baht, plus an additional 200 baht to enter the national park.
The floating village of Bang Bao
Rather than a floating village, it’s a village that grew up along the pier, stretching for a few hundred meters. Not much remains of what was probably a simple fishing village, as it now mostly consists of souvenir stores and restaurants, but it’s still fascinating, especially when photographed from above.
The Bang Bao floating village.
Viewpoints
Kai Bae View Point (Google Maps) is the most popular viewpoint on the island and a great place to watch the sunset. There’s a small restaurant/bar on site and ample parking. Many people don’t realize that, if you want, there’s a second platform slightly higher up. Another nice viewpoint is at this location (Google Maps).
Finally, if you’re in an adventurous mood, there’s a trail to the top of Khao Salak Phetch, the highest mountain on the island, which you’ll find described in detail on this page. Recent comments described it as overgrown with vegetation and discouraged me in light of some experiences I had in previous weeks, but it could still be an interesting hike.
Kai Bae View Point.
Where to sleep in Koh Chang?
I slept at 7 Guesthouse paying about 10€ per night for a private bungalow thanks to an offer on Booking. At that price I absolutely recommend it. As for hostels, Cafe del sunshine is a popular option not too far from Lonely Beach. In general, if you plan to rent a scooter (as I recommend), one place is as good as another.
How to reach Koh Chang?
Transfers are offered from Bangkok that include minivan and ferry departing from Khao San Road, but you can save a few hundred baht by taking the handy 999 bus. The bus has two departures, 7:45 and 9:45, from Bangkok Ekkamai Bus Terminal (Google Maps) which can be easily reached by the BTS Skytrain, 292 baht including water and snacks, about 6 hours travel time. The bus fills up quickly so ideally it’s best to buy your ticket the day before by going directly to the station or booking online. The bus also stops at Suvarnabhumi Airport and Chanthaburi.
You’re dropped off at Ao Thammachat pier (Google Maps) often called “Laem Ngop” which is actually the name of the village. From here the ferry leaves about every hour, 80 baht. Once you disembark in Koh Chang there are Songthaew waiting to take you wherever you want, the cost varies depending on the destination, I paid 150 baht. If you want to go directly to Koh Kood you have to stay on the bus and get off at the “next pier,” in any case the driver and his helper are really clear about it and when you leave they ask where you want to go.
One last option is to reach Trat, where minivans at the bus station go to the pier and vice versa. This option is convenient if the 999 bus is full or if you prefer not to wait for its arrival when returning from Ko Chang or Koh Kood.
Ko Chang sunset.
Koh Kood
Koh Kood or Koh Kut is definitely less developed and touristy than Koh Chang but in my opinion much more beautiful. Along with Koh Lipe it’s my favorite island in Thailand. To get around the island, ideally you should rent a scooter, it starts from 200 baht per day.
What to do and see in Koh Kood
On Koh Kood too, for many people the main activity is relaxing on the beach, and just like on Koh Chang the best beaches are all along the west coast. Truth be told, much of the east coast can only be reached by boat.
Ao Takhian beach.
The beaches of Koh Kood
Secret Beach or Klong Han (Google Maps) is the northernmost beach. It’s really nice and quiet, practically only hotel guests are there. However, not being within a protected bay, if the sea is even slightly rough, it isn’t ideal.
Yai Kee (Google Maps) is slightly further south. You can park here (Google Maps) and continue along the short path on the left that leads to the beach, where if you wish you can rent a kayak to reach Koh Rat, which I talk about below.
Ao Tapao (Google Maps) is my favorite beach. There are lots of swings, a hammock in the middle of the sea, and a platform where you can sunbathe or dive.
Ao Tapao beach.
Khlong Chao (Google Maps) is perhaps the busiest beach on the island, since the village of the same name can be considered the main tourist hub of Koh Kood, but it’s still pleasant and certainly not too crowded, as well as being really convenient to reach on foot if you’re staying nearby, as many people do.
Bang Bao (Google Maps) is very pretty and sheltered within a wide bay. It’s a really narrow beach that at high tide leaves very little room to maneuver. Also, maybe it was just the wrong day, but a guy in the hostel was literally devoured by sand flies.
Ao Takhian (Google Maps), except for a single resort, is basically a deserted beach. Certainly not the most beautiful on the island but still nice and recommended for anyone who wants a corner of paradise all to themselves.
Ao Khlong Hin (Google Maps), a little further south and located within a bay, is definitely the most beautiful. There’s plenty of shade and the water is very shallow even far from the shore. Maybe even too much at low tide!
Ao Khlong Hin beach.
Ao Jak (Google Maps) is similar to Ao Khlong Hin, a sheltered bay and shallow water for several meters from the shoreline. Also, while not exceptional, the snorkeling along the northern part of the beach isn’t so bad.
Ao Phrao (Google Maps) is the southernmost beach on the island, as well as being uncrowded and extremely wide and spread out, perfect for anyone who wants to feel partly isolated from the world!
To wrap up, if you’re at one of these beaches in the south, Ban Cheongkao is a good restaurant with honest prices (Google Maps).
Ao Phrao beach.
The waterfalls of Koh Kood
Khlong Chao Waterfall (Google Maps) is the most popular waterfall on the island and the most impressive. There’s a large natural pool at its base and from what I was told the water flows year-round. The waterfall is reached at the end of a short walk of about 10 minutes through the forest. Alternatively you can go up the river by Kayak and walk only the very last stretch. If possible, arrive early in the morning and you’ll have it all to yourself. Admission is free.
Khlong Chao waterfall.
Khlong Yai Kee (Google Maps) is less popular than Khlong Chao but still very pretty. However, I’d like to point out that as early as mid-December there wasn’t much water and – from what I was told – for much of the dry season the waterfall dries up completely. Admission is free. If you decide to go, or if you’re in the area anyway, I recommend eating at Mr. & Mrs. Coconut (Google Maps), great food and fair prices. They make good coconut ice cream, too!
Khlong Yai Kee waterfall.
Huang Nam Keaw Waterfall (Google Maps) is the most inconvenient of the three to reach, and although it’s very beautiful, the natural pool at the base of the waterfall isn’t at all inviting, so much so that I didn’t go for a swim. Here too, I really think it dries up completely as the season progresses. If you have time, I still recommend stopping by and also stopping at the Macca Tree (Google Maps). This is a really big tree that, from what I understood, has some religious significance. The last part of the road is unpaved but nothing impossible.
Huang Nam Keaw waterfall.
Reach Koh Rat by Kayak
This is a good way to spend half a day and do some great snorkeling without joining an organized tour. To do this I recommend going to Yai Kee beach as described above. Here I rented a Kayak for 100 baht; the guesthouse had lent me a mask and snorkel. It takes about 20 minutes to reach Koh Rat. Parking the kayak is a bit of a pain: lots of rocks, little beach and you have to watch out for urchins. In any case, while snorkeling, I left it exactly at this spot (Google Maps). The best area is marked by buoys so you can’t really go wrong. Alternatively you could just join one of the many snorkeling trips that are offered; at PD Guesthouse they were being sold for 800 baht all inclusive.
Koh Rat.
Ao Salat
Ao Salat is the village located in the northeast of the island, where most boats arrive from the mainland. The coast is mostly rocky, there are no breathtaking beaches, so most travelers prefer to stay elsewhere. But if you have time on your hands you can take a scooter ride there. There’s a giant statue of the Buddha (Google Maps) and somewhat like Bang Bao on Koh Chang it looks like a sort of floating village. I spent a few hours there to take a couple of photos and ended up playing soccer with some local kids. It was nice but certainly not a must-see destination. However, you can feel a more authentic atmosphere than in other parts of the island.
Ao Salat.
In conclusion, the island doesn’t offer much of a nightlife and maybe that’s why I fell in love with it. But I strongly recommend Tawan Eco Bar (Google Maps). Every night the owner plays live music and often some travelers join in, there’s no staff whatsoever, you serve yourself and leave your money in the till, if you want you can dine following the same self service model, great atmosphere.
Where to sleep in Koh Kood?
I spent the first night at BB Dorm Koh Kood (on the spot they charge 250 baht) and all in all it isn’t that bad but for the rest of my stay on the island I shared a double room at PD Guesthouse with a guy I met in the hostel. Not only was it slightly cheaper (450 baht for the room), it was also definitely more comfortable. Bungalows overlooking the inner garden cost 650 baht, if I’m not mistaken. In high season they open the dormitory for 250 baht per person. The owner “Pat” is really nice and friendly. Another interesting option is Cozy House, 750 baht breakfast included and free kayaks to use along the river. Whether you decide to stay at PD Guesthouse or not, I strongly recommend the nearby Koh Kood Aroi Aroi Restaurant (Google Maps), the food is great, the prices honest and the staff is lovely.
Macca Tree on the road to Huang Nam Keaw Waterfall.
How to reach Koh Kood?
If you want to get to Koh Kood without going through Koh Chang, as mentioned earlier, you can simply stay on board the 999 bus, which, after unloading passengers bound for Koh Chang, continues on to the pier from where boats bound for Koh Kood depart. The cheapest option should cost 350 baht or at least that is what I paid traveling in the opposite direction when I left the island, the price also included the transfer from the guesthouse to the pier.
From Koh Chang I took the “wooden boat” that leaves every day at 9:00 from Bang Bao. It costs 700 baht including transportation from the pier to your accommodation on the island. The trip takes about 4 hours. This is also the boat to take if you want to reach Koh Wai (about an hour) and Koh Mak (about 2 hours). If you want, there are speed boats, but they cost about twice as much.
Sunrise at the Bang Bao floating village.
Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.
Khao Sok National Park
Khao Sok Park is considered one of the most spectacular in the country. The landscape often seen in photos features a large lake and giant limestone monoliths emerging from the water and dense forest. In addition, from January to February it’s possible to see the world’s largest flower, the rafflesia!
What to do and see at Khao Sok National Park
The park can be divided into two parts: the area where the iconic Cheow Lan Lake is located and the area around “Khao Sok village,” where virtually all travelers stay.
Trekking in Khao Sok National Park
If you just want to do some trekking in the park, you can do it completely on your own starting from Khao Sok Village, but I absolutely recommend downloading Organic Maps, especially if you want to reach the more remote waterfalls. The entrance to the national park is at the end of the road, at this point (Google Maps).
From here you have several options. The most popular seems to be just going as far as this point (Google Maps), which is number 6 on the map at the park entrance. There’s a small café/ranger station here, and along the way there are a couple of small waterfalls and chances to go for a swim.
One of the small waterfalls before reaching the café/ranger station.
At the café/ranger station there’s a sign politely asking you to continue only if accompanied by a guide, but there’s no mention of it being mandatory, so I continued to Ton Kiol waterfall (Google Maps), but the trail actually isn’t exactly in good shape and in some sections it’s difficult to follow. Without the help of the GPS I highly doubt I would have made it, and in any case it took me almost three and a half hours. On the way back, knowing what was in store for me and walking at a brisk pace without making any detours for photos, it still took me just over two hours. To reach Tan Sawan (Google Maps) you even have to ford the river, which was still fairly deep at the end of the rainy season, and with my camera gear I didn’t trust it. Basically, this isn’t a hike I’d recommend to just anyone; especially without a guide, I think many people wouldn’t feel comfortable.
The other, slightly more accessible waterfall is Sip et Chang (Google Maps). The trail starts at the park entrance in the opposite direction from Ton Kiol. I tried to reach it on the same day, and after walking for about an hour I got to about 1 km from the waterfall, but it started raining and it was getting dark, so I preferred to turn back. Here too, except for the first part, the trail isn’t exactly in great condition.
To wrap up, maybe it was because it was the end of the rainy season, so there was still a lot of water and humidity, but over the course of the day I must have removed at least 30 leeches!
Ton Kiol waterfall.
Boat tour on Cheow Lan Lake
In my experience, 99% of travelers opt for the boat tour without even considering doing the treks I just talked about. In fact, the lake really does seem to be a unique place, while trekking in the rainforest, though enjoyable, is an experience you can have elsewhere too. I was planning to do the day trip on my own as described below, but because of time and weather I had to give up and left without seeing the famous lake.
In any case, if you prefer the do-it-yourself approach, you can get to the pier located here (Google Maps) by renting a scooter for 200/300 baht, about an hour’s ride, and once you get there, the boat should cost 1700 baht to split among the number of participants – so if you form a group it can be really cheap. On top of all this, there’s the 200 baht entrance fee to the park.
If you’re on your own and don’t want to try your luck at the pier hoping to find someone to share the boat with, in Khao Sok village the day tour costs 1500 baht + 200 baht for the park entrance. Departure around 9:00 and return around 18:00. Included are transportation to the pier, from where you take the boat to the famous floating bungalows, a swim or kayak ride, lunch, a short waterfall/forest excursion, an afternoon snack and the return to Khao Sok village.
The most popular tour by far is the two-day, one-night tour that includes an overnight stay in the floating bungalows, with departure around 9:00 and return around 14:00 the next day. The program on the first day is the same as the one-day tour, while on the second day there’s a boat ride just after sunrise, breakfast, relaxing/kayaking/swimming, lunch and the return to Khao Sok village, all for the modest sum of 2500 baht + 200 baht for the park entrance.
Finally, you can visit the elephant sanctuary (Google Maps) located not far from Khao Sok village.
Cheow Lan Lake.
How to reach Khao Sok National Park?
You can reach the park from most tourist destinations in southern Thailand (find an overview here) including a direct bus from Bangkok. The minivan station is located just outside the village at this point (Google Maps), and transfers to Surat Thani are definitely offered there, which you can book on your own.
Where to sleep in Khao Sok?
Hostels are really cheap, and I think this is because most travelers end up booking the expensive tours on offer, so I think there’s a race to the bottom on accommodation that’s offset by the commissions on the tours. I slept at Coco Khao Sok Hostel and I recommend it; another popular and even cheaper option is Khao Sok Jungle Hostel.
Krabi, Ao Nang and Rai Leh
Krabi town isn’t exactly of tourist interest, but the nearby beaches (about 15 km outside of town) are really nice and characterized by huge cliffs and limestone monoliths overlooking the sea, the two most iconic being Ao Nang and Rai Leh (Railay).
What to do and see in Krabi, Ao Nang and Rai Leh
When most people talk about Krabi, they’re actually referring to Ao Nang and Rai Leh. What follows assumes you decide to base yourself in Ao Nang (as I recommend), but nobody’s stopping you from choosing Krabi or Rai Leh.
Rai Leh Beach.
Rai Leh Beach
Rai Leh can only be reached by boat from Ao Nang beach, 10-15 minutes, 200 THB if the boat is full. You buy the ticket at the office here (Google Maps) and as soon as the boat is full you leave. Especially in high season, you wait very little. The return is included in the ticket and you just have to show it to board any of the many boats waiting at Rai Leh. Technically, if I remember correctly, no later than 18:00. The beach here is nice, but I recommend walking to Phra Nang Beach (Google Maps), which in my opinion is prettier, and if you’re in the mood for an adventure, absolutely don’t miss the Princess Lagoon (Google Maps) and the viewpoint (Google Maps).
Princess Lagoon.
The trail starts here and climbs through the jungle, almost vertically in places, so much so that there are ropes to help with the ascent and descent, 20-25 minutes. Some may find it really challenging, so much so that the day I went I met people who had decided to turn back. I absolutely recommend doing it in a proper pair of shoes and avoiding it right after heavy rain. Also, if possible, try to go at high tide when the lagoon fills up. I went at low tide, and although it’s still a fascinating place, let’s say the conditions weren’t ideal. Another interesting trail is the one leading to the Bat Cave (Google Maps); here too, some may find the trail too challenging.
Phra Nang Beach.
To conclude, the area is famous for climbing. There are numerous schools offering lessons or alternatively you can simply rent equipment and attempt one of the many routes.
Sunset at Pai Plong Beach.
Pai Plong Beach
Pai Plong Beach (Google Maps) is reached at the end of a short trail called “Monkey Trail” that starts at the end of Ao Nang beach. The path through the forest is really pleasant, and once you get there, the beach isn’t only prettier than Ao Nang but also less crowded. Recommended.
Pai Plong Beach.
Dragon Crest Mountain
This is the hike inside Mount Khao Ngon Na National Park, where until a few years ago you could take the iconic photo on the rock outcrop, which has since been closed to the public for safety reasons. You can’t take cool photos anymore, but I think it’s still worth going: the view is breathtaking and the trail up through the jungle is pleasant.
On top of Dragon Crest Mountain.
The entrance to the park is at this point (Google Maps). From here to the top of Hang Nak Mountain (Google Maps) it’s about two hours, and about an hour to come down; you’ll find the trail described on this page. There are at least a couple of detours that take no more than ten minutes or so: the first leads to Hang Nak waterfall (Google Maps), while the second leads to a spring with a legend attached to it (Google Maps). The waterfall is pretty, the spring isn’t. To reach the park entrance I recommend renting a scooter for 200 baht. The entrance to the park costs another 200 baht.
Hang Nak waterfall.
Some people combine the hike with Tha Pom Son Nam (Google Maps), where you can rent kayaks to navigate the canal system, but from what I understood you can’t even swim, so I preferred to do something else. The entrance fee is 100 baht. You could also start your day at sunrise by going to Din Daeng Doi (Google Maps), which has become a fairly popular viewpoint.
One of the many viewpoints at the top.
Tiger Temple
Instead of going to Tha Pom Son Nam, I preferred to climb to the top of the Tiger Temple (Google Maps): exactly 21 minutes, but what a struggle!!! About 15 minutes to come down. For some people it could be real torture, as some flights of stairs are almost vertical, but once you get to the top you’re rewarded with a great view! Admission is free and there are other nice temples at the base that you can visit. I personally haven’t been there, but many people combine a visit to the Tiger Temple with Huay To waterfall (Google Maps) further north; entrance costs 100 baht plus 20 baht to park the scooter.
Tiger Temple.
Hot springs and Emerald Pool
Over the course of another day on the scooter, you could combine a visit to the Emerald Pool, also known as Crystal Pool (Google Maps), and the hot springs (Google Maps). I haven’t been there, so I won’t stick my neck out, but the photos look really nice. Admission to the Emerald Pool costs 200 baht, while the hot springs cost 100 baht plus 10 baht for parking.
Sunset from the Tiger Temple.
Boat tour of the islands with snorkeling
Another popular excursion is the classic boat tour to some islands around Ao Nang. I didn’t join one because, as nice as they are, after a while these tours all start to look the same! A close friend did tell me, though, that Koh Hong is really beautiful, while Koh Lao is small and extremely crowded, so it’s something you might keep in mind when you’re evaluating a potential tour.
To wrap up, if you’re looking for a good restaurant with honest prices in Ao Nang, I recommend Family Thaifood & Seafood (Google Maps). It’s really popular, so try to avoid peak hours, otherwise you’ll almost certainly have to wait in line for a table.
Sunset at Pai Plong Beach.
How to reach Krabi / Ao Nang?
Unless you opt for a tourist transfer, to reach Ao Nang you’ll more often than not have to go through Krabi, or at least its station/port/airport. In any case, connections are really frequent and cheap during the day. There are songthaews that frequently shuttle from the bus station to Ao Nang for 60 baht.
Where to sleep in Ao Nang?
I spent a couple of nights at Pop-In Aonang and all in all it isn’t bad, but if your budget allows, I recommend TAN Hostel x Cafe, a much better hostel. The bar on the ground floor isn’t exactly cheap, but the food is great.
Viewpoint on the trail to the Princess Lagoon.
Phuket
Phuket can, for all intents and purposes, be considered the capital of mass tourism in Thailand, and it’s without a doubt the most visited island in the entire country. I haven’t been there personally, but beaches like Patong, Kata and Karon are to be avoided, unless you want to be completely surrounded by tourists. The beaches further north, on the other hand, like Nai Yang, Nai Thon and Mai Khao, are said to still be relatively less touristy. If you’re interested, here you’ll find a complete guide to the island.
Phuket, and perhaps even better Khao Lak further north, are however the ideal base for exploring the nearby Similan Islands, a true paradise considered one of the best places in the world for diving and snorkeling. That said, a well-traveled diving friend of mine wasn’t impressed at all, so I recommend doing thorough research before making plans.
Unfortunately I haven’t been there; if you’re interested, here you’ll find some more information.
Koh Phi Phi
It’s an archipelago (probably the most famous one) in the middle of the Andaman Sea, roughly between Phuket and Koh Lanta, considered for years one of the most spectacular and accessible archipelagos in the world. Today, unfortunately, it has lost much of its beauty.
Mass tourism has literally destroyed this archipelago, so much so that the famous “Maya Bay”, where the movie “The Beach” with Leonardo DiCaprio was filmed, was closed in June 2018 and only reopened in January 2022, with a limited number of visitors and a ban on swimming.
I had the “pleasure” of visiting the bay about a year earlier, and I have to say the degradation was evident, to say the least, but it was still a place of absolute beauty.
The archipelago is certainly still spectacular, but don’t expect an unspoiled paradise: Koh Phi Phi Don, the main island and the only inhabited one, is extremely developed; most of the buildings are concentrated along a narrow strip of land. Not exactly a heavenly sight, in short.
Although I think there are better destinations in Thailand, Koh Phi Phi is still a valid option, especially for those who don’t mind a bit of nightlife.
If you decide to visit Koh Phi Phi, I still recommend doing the classic boat trip to Maya Bay and visiting one of the viewpoints (number 1, number 2, number 3). Another nice beach that’s easy to reach is Long Beach (Google Maps). I also recommend hiking to Nui Beach (Google Maps). Be careful, because access can be difficult at high tide. You can also get there by boat or kayak.
Sunset from the viewpoint on Koh Phi Phi island.
How to reach Koh Phi Phi?
There are several daily sea connections from all major destinations in the area including Phuket, Ao Nang, Krabi and Koh Lanta.
Where to sleep in Koh Phi Phi?
Accommodation tends to be more expensive here than in the rest of the country. I shared a cheap room with a friend in a guesthouse that wasn’t listed online, and I can’t remember its name. Personally, I’d recommend avoiding the main area and choosing to stay a bit further away, like at Sweed Dee Hostel.
Koh Lanta
Koh Lanta may not be as visually spectacular as other islands in the region, as it lacks imposing limestone formations and cliffs dropping into the sea. However, it offers pleasant beaches, low prices and a relaxed atmosphere.
The island is quite large and best explored by scooter. Long Beach, considered the “main” beach (Google Maps), is the most developed and lively. I visited the “Tiger Cave” in the past; it’s now closed, but you can still visit nearby Tham Khao Mai Khew (Google Maps), another popular cave, which however requires a guide at a cost of 300 baht.
Heading south, you can do a short hike to Khlong Chak Waterfall (Google Maps), and along the trail you can visit the Bat Cave (Google Maps). Access to the trail costs 200 baht. I didn’t visit it, but the nearby Elephant Sanctuary is also often recommended (Google Maps). After the waterfall, it’s worth stopping by Khlong Chak Beach (Google Maps).
Although I haven’t visited it personally, many travelers drive all the way to the lighthouse inside the national park (Google Maps), which requires a 200 baht entrance ticket. If you decide to go, there’s a short nature loop trail (All Trails).
In short, Koh Lanta is an ideal destination for budget-conscious travelers looking for an accessible island with nice beaches and a relaxed atmosphere.
Sunset at Long Beach on the island of Koh Lanta.
How to reach Koh Lanta?
By boat/ferry there are connections with Koh Phi Phi, Ao Nang and Krabi, but also with Malaysia or Koh Lipe to the south. For these last two, though, it’s still cheaper to travel overland to Satun province and take a boat from there. There are also direct buses from Bangkok, while from Hat Yai, near the Malaysian border, there are minivans: you can book them on 12go.
Where to sleep in Koh Lanta?
Hub of Joys Hostel, a good budget place to stay with air conditioning in the room, a stone’s throw from “Long Beach”, the most popular beach.
Koh Lipe
Koh Lipe is a small island near the Malaysian border that for years stayed largely away from mass tourism and only recently started to experience a real “boom”.
Fortunately – or unfortunately, depending on your point of view – it lies outside the jurisdiction of the nearby Tarutao National Park, and this has allowed a not exactly sustainable development of tourism.
In any case, the island is a true tropical paradise: white beaches and crystal-clear water are the norm, there are no cars and the atmosphere is relaxed, to say the least. Moreover, the coral reef wasn’t damaged by the 2004 tsunami, so it’s still in excellent condition. Maybe it was because a really close-knit group had formed at the hostel where I stayed, maybe it’s because the island is really beautiful, but the fact is that Koh Lipe is one of the destinations in Thailand closest to my heart.
Sanom Beach, Koh Lipe.
What to do and see in Koh Lipe
The island is really compact and you can easily get around on foot. For many, the main activity is spending the day at the beach. The most beautiful one is undoubtedly Sunrise Beach (Google Maps), where unfortunately there are lots of boats, but if you walk toward the northern part of the beach there’s a nice area marked off by buoys where you can swim.
The other popular beach on the island is Pattaya Beach (Google Maps). This is where speedboats and ferries arrive, and there’s a lot more going on, especially in the evening, with many bars and restaurants overlooking the beach. If you’re looking for a bit more peace and quiet, I recommend walking to Sanom Beach (Google Maps), which you reach at the end of a short trail starting from Pattaya Beach.
If you’re looking for an even more remote beach, head to Pollo/Galah beach (Google Maps): the afternoon I went there with some guys from the hostel, there were only two other people. Unfortunately there’s quite a bit of trash, but it’s still an enchanting place. For the last stretch down to the beach you have to walk along a trail through the forest, but it’s nothing challenging.
Pollo/Galah beach.
Finally, Sunset Beach (Google Maps), as the name suggests, is the ideal place to watch the sunset, but it’s probably the ugliest beach on the island, so I recommend going only in the late afternoon, just in time to enjoy the last moments of daylight.
Sunrise Beach.
Reach Koh Jolona by kayak
Koh Jolona (Google Maps) is one of the two islets you can see from Sunrise Beach. You can easily reach it by kayak (or even by swimming, if you like), and it’s a great way to spend half a day. There are at least a couple of shops renting kayaks at Sunrise Beach; together with two other guys, we paid 200 baht each for 3 hours plus 100 baht for mask and snorkel.
The snorkeling, especially along the side facing away from Koh Lipe, is great, so much so that it’s a stop on many boat tours. Basically, park your kayak on the beach and then swim around the islet. We limited ourselves to Koh Jolona but from what I was told the other islet is just as nice.
Sunset Beach.
Excursion to Koh Adang
A nice day trip is the one to the nearby island of Koh Adang. The island is inside the national park, there are only a couple of places to stay and it’s much wilder than Koh Lipe. Taxi boats leave from Sunrise Beach and cost 200 baht per person; unless you make special requests, you’re dropped off at the ranger station (Google Maps). For the return you can agree on a time or alternatively just call the boat, in any case no later than 18:00 if I remember correctly. I recommend leaving early in the morning and, if you’re on a budget, bringing water and food with you: there’s at least one restaurant near the ranger station, but it’s quite expensive.
Koh Lipe seen from the viewpoint on Koh Adang.
Once on the island, you could just spend the day at the beach in the company of the monkeys (watch your food!), but I think it’s worth going up to the viewpoint (Google Maps), from which you get great views of Koh Lipe. It takes about half an hour. I did it in flip-flops/barefoot, but I think it’s a good idea to bring a pair of shoes. There are actually three viewpoints, so if you don’t feel like going up to the last one you could stop earlier; the higher you go, though, the better the view gets. Your call.
Monkey on Koh Adang.
Another way to spend a couple of hours is to hike to the Pirate Waterfall (Google Maps), a really pretty waterfall in the middle of the forest that is about a 45-minute walk from the ranger station.
Pirate Waterfall.
Boat tour with snorkeling
At least a couple of different “standard” itineraries are offered, visiting 4-5 islands. I don’t remember exactly which one I did, partly because, due to not-so-great weather, we had to change it along the way. In any case, the tours are sold for 600-800 baht per person including lunch, mask and snorkel. With three other guys from the hostel we opted for a private tour since, ironically, it cost less, and we paid 500 baht each (2000 baht for the boat).
To wrap up, eating on the island can be relatively expensive, especially compared to the mainland. Two cheap restaurants I’d recommend are Madam Yoo Hoo (Google Maps) and Banana tree restaurant (Google Maps). Also worth trying are the coconut donuts sold by the man in front of the 7-Eleven next to Banana tree, you can’t miss him! 🙂
Sanom Beach and Pattaya beach, Koh Lipe.
Where to sleep in Koh Lipe?
I slept at Nest Hostel Lipe and I can’t recommend it enough! “Pino”, the owner, is a woman of unparalleled kindness and hospitality. There’s free drinking water, tea, coffee, cookies and bananas at the reception. Another great option literally a stone’s throw away is Bloom Cafe & Hostel: I had a look at it when I arrived, before choosing Nest Hostel, and went there for breakfast a couple of times; the staff seemed really friendly and the dorm isn’t bad. Finally, Sang Chan hostel is a slightly cheaper option located literally in between. It’s a good hostel, but at least during my visit the dorm didn’t have air conditioning, which can be a problem.
How to reach Koh Lipe?
There are direct speedboat or ferry connections to Koh Lanta and Koh Phi Phi to the north, but transfers are sold to practically any other destination. To the south, you can go directly to Langkawi Island in Malaysia. In this case, near Koh Lipe’s main pier there’s a small immigration office where you get your passport stamped to leave the country, or get your visa on arrival if you’re coming from Langkawi.
If you arrive overland, you have to go through Hat Yai, from where you then continue to Pak Bara, where the pier with the speedboats to Koh Lipe is. The Hat Yai minivan station is out of town at this point (Google Maps), but I really think this is one of those times when taking a tourist transfer is more practical and not necessarily more expensive. Across from the Hat Yai train station, at this point (Google Maps), there’s an agency that grabs a good share of the travelers arriving by train. They wanted 1100 baht and then dropped to 1000 baht for the minivan + speedboat combo, which still seemed too much based on what I had read, and on top of that they weren’t friendly at all. After wandering around a bit, I found an agency at this spot (Google Maps) that offered me the exact same transfer for 800 baht. In any case, it’s about two hours by minivan plus about another two hours by speedboat.
If you’re coming from Malaysia without going through Langkawi, the most practical way is to take the direct train to the border town “Padang Besar”. There are also direct minivans from Penang that you can book on 12go. Once you’ve crossed the border, there are both trains and minivans to Hat Yai. You’ll find lots of information on this page. In any case, when you enter the embarkation area at Pak Bara port you have to pay both the national park entrance fee of 200 baht and the port fee of 20 baht.
Pattaya beach in the evening.
Samui Archipelago
The Samui archipelago is located in the Gulf of Thailand and therefore has a shorter rainy season than the islands in the Andaman Sea. There are three main islands: Koh Phangan, Koh Samui and Koh Tao.
Koh Tao
Koh Tao has the highest concentration of diving schools on the Asian continent, and possibly in the world. Because of the high level of competition, it’s probably one of the cheapest places in the world to get certified. During my last visit, an open water certification cost about 9,000 baht. If you get certified, try to organize a trip to Sail Rock. It’s a bit expensive because of the distance, but it’s considered the best dive site in the area.
John-Suwan viewpoint on Koh Tao.
What to do and see on Koh Tao
The island is less developed and has a more relaxed atmosphere than the bigger islands, Koh Samui and Koh Phangan. Even if you don’t plan to dive, I find it the most beautiful, with the best beaches. There’s also a decent nightlife along Sairee Beach (Google Maps).
Aow Luek Beach.
Some beaches I recommend checking out are Freedom Beach (Google Maps), which costs 50 baht to enter and includes access to the nearby John-Suwan Viewpoint (Google Maps). Ao Hin Wong (Google Maps) is a nice bay with good snorkeling on the left side, and Ao Leuk (Google Maps) is fairly similar. Haad Sai Daeng (Google Maps) is run by a resort, but access is free. At Shark Bay (Google Maps) you’re almost guaranteed to spot small sharks on the left side of the bay. Ao Laem Thian beach (Google Maps) is reached after a short hike and you’ll most likely have it all to yourself. Finally, I recommend Aow June Juea (Google Maps), especially at sunset; it’s very quiet. I took the trail along the coast, but I think you can also get there by scooter. Speaking of sunsets, two great bars/restaurants I recommend are the Secret Bar (Google Maps) and the Horizon Bar (Google Maps). There are many other viewpoints on the island; you can find an overview on this page.
Koh Tao.
To wrap up, even though I’ve been to Koh Tao twice and spent several weeks on the island, I’ve never joined one of the snorkeling boat trips they offer, but I’m pretty sure it’s a good way to spend the day. The tours normally start around 10:00 and end around 17:00, visiting five different spots with lunch included, for about 650 baht. Another very popular boat trip is the one to the iconic Koh Nang Yuan viewpoint (Google Maps), which personally I don’t think is worth it, considering how crowded the whole islet is.
Where to sleep in Koh Tao?
I highly recommend staying at The Dearly Koh Tao Hostel. It’s one of the best hostels I’ve ever stayed at. However, if you prefer to be closer to the nightlife of Sai Ri Beach, I suggest the Savage Hostel Koh Tao.
Aow June Juea.
Koh Phangan
Famous for the legendary Full Moon Party that attracts tens of thousands of people each month, Koh Phangan is a destination I recommend even to those who aren’t into such events and are looking for something different.
The Full Moon Party, Half Moon Party, and Jungle Party occur only a few days each month and impact only a small part of the island. The rest of the island, particularly in the north, remains relatively undeveloped, with many uncrowded beaches and some waterfalls worth visiting.
What to do and see in Koh Phangan
The beaches may not be as heavenly as those on Koh Lipe, but they’re still great. My favorite is Bottle Beach (Google Maps), located in the north of the island and accessible only by foot or boat.
Rent a scooter and drive to the trailhead. From there, you have two options to reach Bottle Beach: a longer coastal route that takes about 2 hours or a shorter one through the forest that takes about 1 hour. Once you’re at the beach, you can also climb up to the viewpoint for a great view (All Trails). If you don’t want to hike back, you can take a taxi boat for 150 baht to Haad Khom beach (Google Maps).
Zen Beach (Google Maps) is another nice and popular beach, especially for sunset, with a very hippy vibe. Haad Yao (Google Maps) and Haad Salad (Google Maps) are also really beautiful beaches along the west coast.
There are also three waterfalls worth visiting, as long as the rainy season has only recently ended. While they’re certainly not impressive, they’re a nice place to go for a refreshing swim. Paradise Waterfall (Google Maps) has a 30 baht entry fee but is kept clean, Phaeng Noi Waterfall (Google Maps) is the biggest and most popular one and has a 30 baht entry fee, and finally Wang Sai waterfall (Google Maps) has a 20 baht entry fee.
View from above of Bottle Beach on Koh Phangan.
Ang Thong Marine Park
About an hour by boat from both Phangan and Samui lies Ang Thong National Marine Park, a really popular archipelago of small islands. Although I’ve never visited the marine park, the snorkeling and diving are considered excellent. Boat tours, lasting about seven hours and including lunch, snorkeling, and other activities, are offered from both Koh Phangan and Koh Samui.
Where to sleep in Koh Phangan?
If you want to stay close to the port area, I recommend Hao Norn Hostel. Otherwise, go straight to Sarana Bungalow. Although it’s a bit pricey, for what it offers it’s still good value for money.
Koh Samui.
Koh Samui
Koh Samui is the second most visited island in Thailand after Phuket. After avoiding it for many years, I finally decided to give it a chance, but it was disappointing.
What to do and see on Koh Samui
If you decide to visit the island anyway, I recommend renting a scooter and checking out the following:
In my opinion, the best beach is Crystal Beach (Google Maps). Other commonly recommended beaches, such as Lamai Beach (Google Maps) and Choengmon Beach (Google Maps), are too developed and crowded for my taste, but obviously it depends on what you’re looking for.
You can also check out Na Mueang Waterfall (Google Maps) and Na Mueang Waterfall 2 (Google Maps), which are very close to each other. If you visit the island well into the dry season, don’t expect much water. Another waterfall worth checking out is Hin Lat Waterfall (Google Maps).
Wat Khunaram Ko Samui (Google Maps) is the island’s most famous temple, known for its mummified monk on display. The mummy is the body of a very revered former abbot of the temple who was also a meditation master and apparently able to predict his own death.
Finally, you can catch the sunset from the Big Buddha (Google Maps) and then grab some food in the Fisherman’s Village Walking Street (Google Maps), which becomes very lively at night.
Where to sleep in Koh Samui?
I stayed at KoHabitat Samui and I recommend it. Great value for money.
Bang Kao Beach.
How to reach Koh Phangan, Koh Samui and Koh Tao?
All three islands are connected to each other daily by ferries. Only Koh Samui has an airport with daily flights to Bangkok. The cheapest way to reach them, however, is by land/sea; packages are offered that include bus, port transfer, and ferry from virtually any tourist destination within the country.
If you’re the do-it-yourself type, the port for Koh Tao is Chumphon, while for Koh Phangan and Koh Samui it’s Surat Thani. If you’re coming from Bangkok, I recommend booking the night train to Chumphon. On arrival in Chumphon in the morning, you can take a joint bus and ferry service directly from outside the railway station, offered by Lomprayah. Depending on the time of year, the Songserm company provides the same service.
In my case, the train arrived almost an hour late, but I still managed to catch the 7:00 boat; there was a Lomprayah pickup that raced to get us to the pier. The transfer officially leaves at 6:00. 900 baht in total (750 boat + 150 minivan). The bus transfer from Bangkok costs 1500 baht.
If you want to go to Koh Phangan or Koh Samui, I recommend booking the train to Surat Thani, where you can get the same kind of transfer (minivan to the port + ferry). Finally, if you arrive on Koh Samui by boat from Koh Tao with Lomprayah, they offer a transfer to anywhere on the island for 150 baht once you arrive at Pralarn Pier (Google Maps). I tried booking a Grab motorbike without any luck, so I ended up taking the “expensive” transfer.
Suggested itineraries in Thailand
Below I list possible 2-, 3- and 4-week itineraries. Obviously, take what follows as inspiration and adapt the itinerary to your interests/budget, and remember to take into account the time of year you’re visiting Thailand!
Two-week itinerary in northern Thailand
This itinerary essentially covers the highlights of northern Thailand.
Bangkok (3 nights)
Day 1:
A relaxing day, maybe walking around Chinatown.
Day 2:
Follow the classic tourist route: Grand Palace -> Wat Pho -> Wat Arun. Khaosan Road in the evening?
Day 3:
Visit a floating market or maybe join an organized tour to Khao Yai National Park (if you do it on your own as a day trip, you risk spending the whole day on a bus).
Overnight train/bus to Sukhothai to save time.
Sukhothai (1 night)
Day 4:
Explore the ruins of Sukhothai.
Chiang Mai (4 nights)
Day 5:
Transfer to Chiang Mai in the morning. Explore the historic city center.
Day 6:
Visit Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, maybe take a dip in the canyon in the afternoon. Visit the night market.
Day 7:
Visit the elephant sanctuary.
Day 8:
Spend the day as you like, you could visit Doi Inthanon National Park, Bua Thong Falls, attend a cooking class, etc. etc.
Pai (3 nights)
Day 9:
Transfer to Pai.
Day 10:
Visit Tham Lod Cave.
Day 11:
Explore the falls and go to see the canyon at sunset.
Chiang Rai (2 nights)
Day 12:
Pai -> Chiang Mai -> Chiang Rai transfer. Visit the night bazaar.
Day 13:
Visit the temples in the city.
Day 14:
Return to Bangkok.
Two-week itinerary in southern Thailand
This itinerary essentially covers the highlights of southern Thailand. I’ve assumed that the starting and ending point is Bangkok, but I suggest you also consider Phuket, as flights there are sometimes really cheap.
Avoid this itinerary during the peak of the rainy season (July-November), especially the islands in the Andaman Sea.
Bangkok (3 nights)
Day 1:
A relaxing day, maybe walking around Chinatown.
Day 2:
Follow the classic tourist route: Grand Palace -> Wat Pho -> Wat Arun.
Day 3:
Visit a floating market or maybe join an organized tour to Khao Yai National Park (if you do it on your own as a day trip, you risk spending the whole day on a bus).
Night train/bus to Surat Thani to save time.
Khao Sok National Park (2 nights)
Day 4-5:
Surat Thani -> Khao Sok bus. You can join an organized tour or take day trips on your own starting from Khao Sok village.
Krabi (2 nights)
Day 6:
Khao Sok -> Krabi -> Ao Nang beach bus. Spend the rest of the day at the beach.
Day 7:
Day trip to Rai Leh; don’t miss the viewpoint and the lagoon.
Koh Lanta (3 nights)
Day 8 – 9 – 10:
I recommend three beach days on Koh Lanta rather than on Koh Phi Phi (unless you’re interested in nightlife).
Koh Tao or Koh Phangan (3 nights)
Day 11 – 12 – 13:
Break up your trip back to Bangkok by visiting one of these two islands. My preference goes to Koh Tao, but obviously the choice is yours.
Day 14:
Return to Bangkok.
Three-week itinerary in Thailand
With three weeks available, my advice is to follow the itinerary for northern Thailand described above and add a week of beach time on the islands of the Gulf of Thailand (Samui Archipelago or Koh Chang) or on the islands of the Andaman Sea (Koh Phi Phi, Koh Lanta, etc.).
I’d go for the former – especially during the rainy season from May to September, when the weather is much better – rather than the Andaman Sea islands. In October and November it’s best to avoid southern Thailand.
Four-week itinerary in Thailand
With four weeks available, I recommend that you simply combine the two-week itinerary in the north with the two-week itinerary in the south.
How to get around in Thailand
Getting around is really easy, even for the less experienced. Any accommodation or agency (there’s literally one on every corner of any even slightly touristy destination) can book your transfers to virtually any other destination within the country.
For those who can’t be bothered, there are packages that combine several means of transport, such as bus + ferry to a particular island and so on, and more often than not they also include “pick-up” directly from your accommodation. AirAsia also offers this kind of package in combination with domestic flights.
Obviously this is a really practical way to get around, but certainly not the cheapest. With a bit of research, you can actually replicate all the journeys using only public transportation, or at least skip the middleman, who, however little, has to make something out of it. As always, the choice is yours.
Double-decker bus to Chiang Mai.
Buses in Thailand
Buses are generally a good compromise between the slower, cheaper trains and more expensive flights. As a rule, you can book buses online, although it’s almost always cheaper to show up directly at the terminal and buy the ticket on the spot.
Departures are frequent and you shouldn’t run the risk of getting stranded. To get an idea of prices and schedules, you can take a look at 12go but remember that certain options may not show up in your search.
Trains in Thailand
The rail network is relatively extensive and is often the cheapest and most comfortable option. It’s a good idea to book your tickets a couple of days in advance, especially if you want to travel at night in a sleeper berth (sleeper train), and during high season.
The main website is the railway’s own, which you’ll find here, for checking schedules and departures, while booking directly online is finally possible without paying extra fees (as long as you use a card without currency exchange fees) at this link: just register and you’re done. Be wary of anyone who says it’s not possible and recommends using third-party services.
If you’re traveling at night, I think the best value for money is a second-class sleeper berth with air conditioning. If you want a bit of extra space, choose the lower berth, but I’ve always been fine on the upper one too.
Domestic flights in Thailand
In many cases, especially if booked in advance, flights can be relatively cheap, with the Bangkok – Chiang Mai route costing even less than 30€ if you travel with carry-on luggage only. The two low-cost airlines par excellence are NokAir and AirAsia.
Other airlines operating domestic flights are BangkokAir and ThaiAirways.
Taxi, tuk tuk and Songthaew
Taxis, tuk tuks and songthaews (pickups with two benches in the back) are found literally everywhere and are cheap by European standards. Meters are rarely used, and only in Bangkok and Chiang Mai anyway, so remember to agree on the price before getting in to avoid surprises.
Songthaews sometimes act as taxis, but they’re often used as minibuses and are, for all intents and purposes, part of public transportation, so they have fixed fares.
A songthaew in Chiang Mai.
Backpacking Thailand: costs
How much does a trip to Thailand cost? Not much by European standards, although the country is certainly no longer as cheap as it was twenty or so years ago. Bangkok was even recently named the second most expensive city in Southeast Asia after Singapore.
There’s also a clear difference between the north (much cheaper) and the south, where some islands have prices 3-4 times higher than Chiang Mai, especially during high season.
In any case, traveling on a budget, a daily budget of 30€ (probably closer to 40€ if you focus on the south of the country) should be enough, as long as you eat at local restaurants, where a cheap meal generally costs around 40-50 baht on the mainland and 80-100 baht on the islands, sleep in cheap hostels/guesthouses and use public transport to get around. For example, during my last 32-day stay I spent exactly 942.93€, or 29.47€ a day.
Other costs (ATM withdrawals and SIM cards)
Unfortunately, Thailand is one of those countries where it’s impossible to avoid withdrawal fees charged by local banks, which are typically around 220 baht per withdrawal nowadays. I recommend using a good travel card to minimize fees from your bank and withdrawing larger amounts at once. Most banks have a withdrawal limit of 20,000 baht, but Krungsri bank allows up to 30,000 baht per withdrawal. Another option is to bring cash from home; Superrich has foreign exchange offices scattered all over Bangkok with great exchange rates.
For a local SIM card, I recommend choosing between AIS and True, which have the best coverage. You can easily purchase one at any of the many 7-Eleven stores around the country or directly from their official stores. Bring your passport. Tourist packages tend to be more expensive than buying a SIM card and signing up for plans directly in the app.
Backpacking Thailand: safety
Thailand is definitely a safe destination (even with kids). Obviously, as in every country, crime does happen, but with a bit of common sense I’m sure you’ll never get that feeling of “danger” you might have, for example, in some Latin American cities.
The only thing I think you really need to watch out for is scams targeting tourists, ranging from simple inflated taxi prices to so-called “double menus” for locals and tourists, through to the extremely dishonest practices of people renting out scooters and the like who, once you return the vehicle, demand that you pay to repair pre-existing damage or charge you astronomical sums for minor damage. So make sure you inspect the vehicle thoroughly, maybe by taking a video, and if you’re sure you’re in the right, stand your ground! Unfortunately, renting something without leaving your passport is difficult, so they often take advantage of it. These practices are certainly not the norm, and with a bit of savvy you shouldn’t have any problems.
Are you planning a trip to Thailand? Check out these posts:
Which travel backpack to choose
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