Peru Travel Guide
Many people know Peru only for Machu Picchu, but in reality, there’s a lot more.
A bit like Thailand in Southeast Asia, Peru has been South America’s top tourist destination for years, and as a result many destinations are really crowded and in some cases have turned into real tourist traps; a great many others, though, are still little visited but just as fascinating.
I backpacked across the whole of Peru from north to south, and below you’ll find a ton of useful information to plan a budget trip.
Quick menu
- When to visit Peru
- Documents and vaccinations to enter Peru
- What to do and see in Peru
- Suggested itineraries in Peru
- How to get around Peru
- Backpacking Peru: costs
- Backpacking Peru: safety
Along the path leading to the Rainbow Mountains.
When to visit Peru
Determining the best time to visit Peru isn’t easy, as the climate varies significantly throughout the country.
Along the desert coast, it’s extremely hot from December to March, especially in the north of the country, while temperatures are more pleasant from April to November.
In the Andes, the rainy season lasts from December to March, while the dry season spans from June to September. The climate in the Amazon rainforest follows a similar pattern but with more frequent rainfall and a hot, humid climate year-round.
Essentially, you can visit the country throughout the year without major issues. However, if you plan to do a lot of trekking, the dry season is undoubtedly advisable.
Trekking to Churup Lagoon during the rainy season.
Documents and vaccinations to enter Peru
Italian passport holders (with more than 6 months’ validity) get a 90-day tourist visa from the moment they enter the country (the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours). You can renew the visa by leaving the country and coming back in, even on the same day, as long as you don’t exceed 183 days per calendar year.
I haven’t personally had any experience with this, but from what I’ve read here and there, it seems the 183-day rule isn’t always enforced and depends a lot on the border officer.
For more information, see the official website.
Officially, Peru requires proof of exit within the limits of your visa. This isn’t a problem for anyone with a return flight or a flight to another country (even a bus ticket is fine), but it could be for those who have a one-way ticket and plan to leave the country by land or sea without a definite date or booked tickets.
Checks are at the discretion of the border officer and of the airlines at boarding before departure; I wasn’t asked for anything. This is also the experience of a great many other travelers, but reading the various online forums, there are cases of people who were actually asked for proof of exit from the country. My advice is to rent a ticket (a real one, it’s a paid service) on a site like onwardticket or use returnflights.net (free, nothing fancy) to print a fake booking! If you want to know more, check out this article.
Peru doesn’t require any mandatory vaccinations, but Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B and yellow fever are recommended, the latter especially if you decide to visit the Amazon rainforest.
For up-to-date information on visas and everything else, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).
Where to go and what to see in Peru
As you can see from the map, the main tourist attractions, or at least the best-known ones, are all located south of Lima. This is advantageous, especially for those who don’t have much time. However, for those with more time, I highly recommend visiting the northern part of the country as well. Now, let’s explore what each destination has to offer.
From here on, I’ll often mention prices in Soles, sometimes abbreviated to “Sol”. The exchange rate is about 1€ = 3.85 Sol. For the current rate, I suggest taking a look at this page.
N.b. Several times throughout the guide you’ll find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the Alltrails app you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.
Lima
Lima is Peru’s capital and largest city. Founded in 1535 by Francisco Pizarro, it served as the center of power for the colonial empire for about 300 years. As a result, the city is rich in churches, monasteries, and historical buildings.
What to do and see in Lima
Visit the historic center
Plaza de Armas also known as Plaza Mayor (Google Maps) is located in the heart of the historic center and has been a UNESCO protected site since 1988; all around you’ll find the main historic buildings of the city. On the north side of the square is the government palace (Google Maps), which is also the official residence of the Peruvian president. At noon you can watch the changing of the guard.
To the southeast stands the Cathedral of Lima (Google Maps), site of Pizarro’s remains. I recommend staying at 1900 backpacker, which in addition to being a great hostel, provides a free tour of the historic center that will take you from the main square to see lots of other interesting sights.
Presidential Palace in Lima.
Miraflores
Miraflores is the “fancy” neighborhood of the city. Here the atmosphere is very European and you’ll find all the trendy places in the city. In the center of the neighborhood is Parque Kennedy (Google Maps), while heading toward the coast you’ll find the famous waterfront where you can stroll and visit Parque del Amor (Google Maps) where there are many modern sculptures and mosaics.
Parque de la Reserva
The park has existed since 1920, but it wasn’t until 2007 that the Lima City Council completed work to create, within it, El Circuito Mágico del Agua (Google Maps), a set of 13 fountains, many of them interactive, that holds the world record for the largest fountain complex in the world.
There are 3 shows a day during which light shows set to music are created in the main fountain, and I strongly recommend going. To confirm the schedule and buy a ticket, you can check the official website.
The park is open Tuesday through Sunday from 15:00 to 22:30.
The shows are at 19:15, 20:15 and 21:30.
Admission costs only 5 soles.
Parque de la Reserva, Lima.
Where to sleep in Lima?
The two main areas where most people stay are the historic center and Miraflores. In the historic center I recommend 1900 backpacker. The hostel, housed inside a colonial building, is really nice and clean. For those looking for a more party environment Miraflores is probably a better choice.
All destinations south of Lima
Paracas
This small town south of Lima doesn’t have much to offer in terms of tourism, but it’s an excellent base for exploring the nearby Ballestas Islands and the national reserve of the same name, where you can find 74 species of plants that grow in this arid area, 216 species of birds, 16 species of mammals, 10 species of reptiles and 193 species of fish. It’s considered one of the richest ecosystems in the world, so not bad at all.
What to do and see in Paracas
Join a tour to the nearby Ballestas Islands (about 30/35 soles), where you can see various animal species, including penguins and sea lions. Tours last about two hours and leave at 8:00 in the morning. Entry to the Paracas National Reserve costs 11 soles and there’s also a port tax of 5 soles.
You can also explore the Paracas Peninsula on a tour or on your own by renting a bike (about 30 soles). However, keep in mind that depending on the time of year, it can get really hot or you might have to deal with strong winds. La Catedral (Google Maps), Yumaque (Google Maps), Playa Roja (Google Maps), and Playa Las Minas (Google Maps) are the main must-see attractions. That said, the entire route of about 30 kilometers offers surreal views. You could also stop at the Archeological Museum de Sitio Julio C. Tello de Paracas (Google Maps). After visiting Playa Las Minas, head back to Paracas. If you like, some agencies combine the boat tour with the Paracas Peninsula in a single tour.
Finally, I haven’t been there, but there’s a fairly interesting archeological site not too far from Paracas called Tambo Colorado (Google Maps). To get there by public transportation, take a colectivo to Pisco, from where there should be colectivos heading in that direction.
How to reach Paracas?
Nearly all buses going to Ica, Nazca, and Arequipa will drop you off along the Panamericana without entering the village. From here you can reach the village center by taxi or by taking one of the local collectivos. Only a few companies like Cruz del Sur, Peru Bus and Peru Hop go all the way into the center of Paracas.
Where to sleep in Paracas?
Paracas Backpackers House is a great hostel that offers both dorms and private rooms and has a decent kitchen. Great value for money.
Ballestas Islands.
Ica
Ica is about 4-5 hours from Lima and 2-3 hours from Nazca; the only reason to reach this town is the nearby oasis of Huacachina, which is a few kilometers from the city.
Huacachina
The small “village”—actually a cluster of hotels and restaurants around a small lagoon surrounded by sand dunes—can be considered a classic tourist trap. Everything here is much more expensive than in the rest of Peru, and the oasis itself would have dried up years ago if water weren’t regularly pumped into the lagoon to keep businesses running.
That said, I still recommend a quick visit to participate in the dune buggy tour that includes sandboarding. Racing through the dunes in the dune buggies is a bit like riding a roller coaster, and sandboarding is the equivalent of snowboarding on sand. The whole experience is extremely fun and definitely worth the visit.
The tour is advertised literally everywhere and costs about 50 soles, including the 3.80 soles fee to be paid to the municipality. I recommend joining the afternoon tour so you can watch the sunset.
How to reach Huacachina?
Ica is a fairly large town and is accessible from all major cities in the area. Once in Ica, there’s no public transportation to Huacachina. The Ica-Huacachina route costs about 10 soles by taxi and 5 soles by tuk-tuk. Peru Hop is the only bus company that has a stop in Huacachina.
Where to sleep in Huacachina?
Desert Nights Hostel is a good hostel, clean and cheap.
The dune buggies used to go sandboarding.
Nazca
Nazca is a town in southern Peru famous for the so-called “Nazca Lines”. These lines are a set of geometric figures and giant animal drawings carved into the desert over a total area of more than 500 square kilometers.
The best way to admire them is from a plane, which is relatively expensive for backpackers (in fact, lots of people skip Nazca altogether, myself included). From what I’ve read and heard, we’re talking about 70-100 dollars for a flight of about half an hour, while the cheaper alternative, going up an observation tower, doesn’t make much sense given the size of these drawings.
In this article, you’ll find a first-hand account of the experience. That said, if you like, there are other things to do and see in the area, as described in this guide.
How to reach Nazca?
Numerous collectivos run to and from Ica; it takes about 2-3 hours and costs 15 soles. From Cusco (14 hours) and Arequipa (9 hours) there are numerous night buses, while from Lima it’s about 7 hours.
Nazca Lines, the spider.
Cusco
Cusco is a really beautiful city that preserves numerous colonial buildings and remnants of a much older history, having once been the capital of the Inca empire and remaining the cultural center of the Quechua community. Simply strolling through its streets allows you to witness the “layers” of its history.
In fact, it’s common to see colonial buildings constructed directly atop foundations dating back to the Inca era.
Cusco is also the perfect base for visiting Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley and the Rainbow Mountains.
N.B. Cusco is at 3400m altitude, so altitude sickness can be a problem.
What to do and see in Cusco
Visit the historic center
The historic center of Cusco is truly charming, and it’s definitely worthwhile to spend at least half a day exploring the city streets. The Plaza de Armas (Google Maps) serves as the main square; here you can visit Cusco Cathedral (Google Maps) and the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús; admission costs 10 soles, but it offers great views over the square (Google Maps).
The Plaza de San Francisco and its surroundings aren’t bad at all either (Google Maps). Here you can visit the Museo y Catacumbas del Convento de San Francisco de Asís de Cusco; the guide is mandatory and costs 20 soles (Google Maps).
As always, I recommend joining the free walking tour, especially if you speak a bit of English or Spanish.
Plaza de Armas, Cusco.
DIY sacred valley
There are really a lot of archaeological sites around Cusco. For those interested, it’s possible to pay for a “Boleto Turístico” costing 130 soles (30-35€) that gives access to 16 sites for a period of 10 days. For students the cost is 70 soles.
It’s also recently possible to buy a partial Boleto Turístico valid for one day that gives access to the 4 sites closest to Cusco: Sacsayhuaman, Q’enqo, Tambomachay and Pukapukara. The cost is 70 soles.
You can buy the Boleto Turístico at the office at number 103 Avenida del Sol (Google Maps). Cash only.
What follows is a DIY mini-tour to visit the 4 sites that the partial boleto turístico gives access to, plus two more free ones in the surrounding area.
N.B. I strongly recommend downloading Organic Maps on your phone, as all the places mentioned are marked and many of the trails are mapped; the area is absolutely not dangerous, but without GPS you could end up going around in circles for quite a while.
Cusco -> Tambomachay/Pukapukara
Take a direct bus to Pisac and ask to get off at Tambomachay (Google Maps). The station is on Calle Puputi (Google Maps) but you may be able to get on somewhere else depending on the location of your accommodation (ask at the front desk). The alternative is to take a taxi, the Cusco – Tambomachay route shouldn’t cost more than 20 Soles; if shared, it’s not that bad. Pukapukara is 300 meters away (Google Maps).
Pukapukara seen from outside (without the boleto turístico)
Pukapukara -> Temple of the Moon
Once you’ve finished exploring Pukapukara, walk toward Cusco for about 600m; at this point, just before the village of Huayllarocha, you’ll see a trail on the left: take it. You’ll pass a soccer field and then continue among eucalyptus trees; from here the trail isn’t easy to follow but, relying on Organic Maps, it won’t be hard to find your way to the Temple of the Moon (Google Maps).
This site doesn’t require the boleto turístico for access.
Temple of the Moon -> Monkey Temple
Leaving the Temple of the Moon on your right, follow the path toward the houses and then continue between the two stone walls. After a short while you’ll arrive at the Monkey Temple (Google Maps).
This site doesn’t require the boleto turístico for access.
Temple of the Moon (on the right) with Cusco in the distance.
Monkey Temple-> Q’Enqo
Get back on the path you just took and continue for about 15 minutes to the main road. Cross the road and continue along a less-traveled path. At this point, you can go back up the hill and enter Q’Enqo through a side entrance (or attempt to if you don’t have a Boleto Turístico. I was told that it’s often possible to enter without problems, but I trusted a small group of children at the trailhead who advised against it). The alternative is to continue straight ahead until you reach an expanse of grass and “ruins” at the foot of Q’Enqo (Google Maps).
Q’Enqo -> Sacsayhuaman
Continue on the main road for about 20 minutes until you reach the White Christ (Google Maps). From there, past the stalls, you’ll find a series of paths leading to Sacsayhuaman (Google Maps). This too is a secondary entrance, and you may be able to enter without the Boleto Turístico. If not, you can still enjoy the view of Cusco and Sacsayhuaman from above.
Inside the site, there’s a staircase that leads directly to Plaza de Armas. If you can’t get in from here, go back to the main road and walk to Cusco.
To conclude, two other popular destinations in the Sacred Valley are Moray and Maras from where you have access to the famous salt pans; for the former site you need to have the Boleto Turistico, while for the salt pans you can simply pay the entrance fee, which costs 10 soles. The tour is offered practically everywhere but you can save money by using public transportation by following the instructions on this page.
Sacsayhuaman with Cusco in the background.
Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu can be reached in loads of different ways, from the super expensive Inca Trail (we’re talking a minimum of 500€, and it has to be booked months in advance) to the Salkantay Trek, which, honestly, at around 250€ all-inclusive for 4 nights and 5 days isn’t a bad deal and has been recommended to me by many, and finally the Jungle Trek, a 4-day, 3-night trek/activity which, considering the activities included (zip-lining, mountain biking and rafting), at around 200€ all-inclusive isn’t bad at all. Either way, if you want to save money, don’t book online: once in Cusco you can spend much less. Here you’ll find a detailed guide to the Salkantay Trek and here one about the Jungle Trek. I’d like to point out that, although it’s not a popular option, the Salkantay Trek can be done independently, as described on this page.
Before discussing the absolute cheapest option, it’s worth mentioning the hyper-mega expensive train (considering we’re in Peru) that reaches Aguas Calientes (the village at the base of Machu Picchu) from Cusco or Ollantaytambo. For the Cusco-Aguas Calientes route, tickets start at a minimum of 50€ for a one-way ticket and can go up to almost 500€ for the luxurious train. The journey takes about 3 hours. If you’re interested, this is the website.
N.B. As of July 1, 2017, access to the ruins in addition to being limited in number is also divided into two time slots, 6:00-12:00 and 12:00-17:30. You can buy the ticket at the culture office in Cusco (Google Maps) or in Aguas Calientes (Google Maps) or through the official website (the website sucks but here you can find a great guide with lots of screenshots guiding you through the process), any other site/agency will charge you a fee. Especially during the high season (June-September) it’s advisable to buy your ticket a few days in advance. Access to the ruins alone costs 152S (77S for students with ISIC card), if you want to climb one of the two peaks overlooking the ruins (Montaña and Huayna Picchu) the price is 200S. Remember to bring your passport with you. Prices seem to increase every year.
The ruins of Machu Picchu.
Machu Picchu DIY
Day 1 Cusco -> Hidroelectrica (35-40 soles, 6-7 hours)
In Cusco any agency can offer you transportation from Cusco to Aguas Calientes for 35-40 Soles. They may start higher but you should have no problem negotiating.
The road is really scenic in places and the minibuses are generally comfortable and air-conditioned. The only thing is that there’s a mountain pass at about 4,000 meters to cross and the road has a lot of curves so those suffering from motion sickness might have some problems!
Day 1 Hidroelectrica -> Aguas Calientes (walking, 2-3 hours) All Trails
Once you get to Hidroelectrica, the walk along the train tracks is pleasant and completely flat, 2-3 hours at most. Spend the night in Aguas Calientes. Looking at the various booking sites (Booking, Hostelworld, etc. etc.), it may seem that cheap options are limited, but that’s not the case. There are literally hundreds of options that don’t appear online and, although everything is more expensive than in the rest of Peru, you only have to cross the river/stream that splits the town in half to see prices plummet. There isn’t much to do in Aguas Calientes, but you’ll need to wake up early the next day and you’ll probably be tired from the long journey.
The walk along the train tracks.
Day 2 Aguas Calientes -> Machu Picchu
By now you should already have your ticket to enter the site (I recommend the morning slot). To reach the ruins from Aguas Calientes there are two options:
- Walk for about an hour/an hour and a half (the elevation gain is about 400 meters, nothing strenuous but not a stroll either); try to leave Aguas Calientes around 4:30/5 in the morning so you’ll be at the entrance as soon as they open the gates. Here you’ll find a map just to get an idea, although getting lost is practically impossible given the number of people you’ll find on the way. The trail is also on All Trails.
- After the most expensive train in South America, there’s also the option of taking the most expensive bus (excuse the irony, but I hate it when people/governments take advantage so shamelessly). The price is 24 dollars for a round-trip ticket, and the ride takes about 20 minutes. The first bus leaves Aguas Calientes at 5:30 in the morning, but there’ll be a line from 4:30. If you decide to take this bus, I strongly recommend buying your ticket the day before.
Machu Picchu seen from the Sun Gate.
Day 2 Machu Picchu -> Hidroelectrica -> Cusco
Enjoy the site until 12:00, when your time slot ends anyway and you’ll have to leave. Go down following the trail you took in the morning and then head to Hidroelectrica, ideally without going back to Aguas Calientes, so you save time. The last vans back to Cusco tend to leave around 2:30/3, so you shouldn’t have any problem with the timing. Once back in Cusco you’ll probably be exhausted, but spending another night in Aguas Calientes doesn’t make much sense in my opinion.
Obviously, Machu Picchu can be reached and explored in literally dozens of different ways and timeframes, but what I’ve just described is probably the most efficient and cheapest way to do it.
N.B. Inside the site you’re theoretically not allowed to eat (uhm OK…) but literally everyone does, so you shouldn’t have any problem bringing your own packed lunch. In downtown Aguas Calientes there’s an extremely cheap local market where you can stock up on fruit, vegetables, etc.
The last option I want to mention is to stop at Ollantaytambo starting from Cusco, this is the colectivo station (Google Maps). In addition to the fortress (Google Maps) for which you need the Boleto Turístico there’s another interesting free site from where you have a great view of the fortress itself (Google Maps). The next day take a collectivo to Hidroelectrica from the main plaza and then do what has just been described.
Pinkuylluna ruins in Ollantaytambo (free entry).
The Rainbow Mountains (Vinicunca)
The Rainbow Mountains are a natural spectacle that was practically unknown until a few years ago. They can be visited as part of the Ausangate Trek, but the option many people choose, myself included, is a day trip from Cusco.
The easiest and surprisingly cheapest way to do it is through an organized tour. Reaching the trailhead using a combination of collectivos and taxis is possible, but you end up spending more or less the same money while taking much more time.
Being obsessed with saving money, I went to at least 10 different agencies until I managed to find one willing to offer transportation only for 35 soles, which is a really reasonable price; alternatively, you can buy the complete package (transportation, breakfast and lunch, starting from 60-70 soles).
There’s also a fee to pay to the community that lives in the area, 10 soles.
From the starting point to the spot where the famous photo is taken, if you’re fit and acclimatized (you reach up to 5200 meters), it shouldn’t take more than two hours; otherwise, it could take much longer or you might not make it at all, so much so that many people decide to go up on horseback. Renting a horse at the trailhead should cost about 40 soles one way and 70 round trip.
The views along the entire trail are really beautiful and not limited to the Rainbow Mountains themselves. To wrap up, remember that at this altitude the weather is extremely variable, so dress appropriately, and don’t forget that altitude sickness is serious business: that day I saw a semi-conscious kid being carried down on someone’s back.
To conclude, there are some “new rainbow mountains” that have become famous in recent years, called Pallay Punchu. You’ll find an interesting article on this page.
The Rainbow Mountains covered in snow.
How to reach Cusco?
There are plenty of bus connections from major Peruvian cities. From Lima it’s 24 hours, Puno 6-8 hours, Arequipa 10 hours, Nazca 14-16 hours, Copacabana 9-12 hours, La Paz 12-15 hours.
From Lima I suggest you take a look at flights; it’s often possible to fly for 30-40 euros one way.
Where to sleep in Cusco?
Xplora Hostel Cusco is a good compromise between budget and quality but not so close to the center. Another good option is Gringo’s Wasi. If you’re looking for a party hostel then Loki and Wild Rover are the best options. I’ve seen both and I have to say that Wild Rover is really cool, the hostel is brand new and it’s in a really amazing location.
Puerto Maldonado
The town isn’t particularly nice and it’s always hot and humid, but it’s an excellent base for exploring the Amazon rainforest and it’s easily reached by overnight bus from Cusco, which is on practically everyone’s Peru itinerary, so it’s much more convenient than the better-known Iquitos, where many people go to explore the Amazon rainforest.
There are dozens if not hundreds of tours and lodges on offer, for all budgets. I’m certainly not going to go on about all the possible options, but I’ll write briefly about my experience.
Reading around here and there, I decided that Lake Sandoval would be the best choice: besides attracting more animals, the lake is fairly close to town, so transportation costs are lower than for other areas, and it’s also home to a family of giant otters, a fairly rare species.
After asking around, I was pointed toward the agency that runs Sandoval Lodge. After haggling for a while, I managed to get the 3-day, two-night tour for 110$ instead of the 170$ advertised on their website; it was low season, so that may well have helped.
Honestly, I was satisfied: the food was good, the private room spacious and clean, and the activities interesting. Alejandro, my guide, was really friendly, helpful and extremely professional.
Again, there are really lots of options, but all in all I was happy with my choice. Other options in the area are: Jungle Pro, Inkaterra and Chuncho Lodge. A friend stayed at Monte Amazonico and was happy with it.
Sunset over Lake Sandoval.
Where to sleep in Puerto Maldonado?
Tambopata Hostel is really nice and also seems to be the only option in town in case you want a hostel atmosphere and not just a place to sleep.
How to reach Puerto Maldonado?
From Cusco it’s about 10 hours by bus, so it’s a great route for an overnight bus.
Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.
Arequipa
Arequipa, which was also the capital of Peru from 1835 to 1883, is still the second most important city in the country after Lima and the second most visited after Cusco.
Nicknamed the “ciudad blanca” because of the many buildings constructed of a white stone of volcanic origin (the city is surrounded by 3 volcanoes), it’s in my opinion the most beautiful city in Peru. At 2380 meters above sea level it offers a particularly pleasant climate throughout the year.
What to do and see in Arequipa
Visit the historic center
The historic center consists of 5 blocks and is easily explored on foot. Some of the main attractions are: Plaza de Armas (Google Maps), the San Camilo market (Google Maps), the Yanahuara mirador (Google Maps), the Museo Santuarios Andinos (Google Maps) where you can see the mummy Juanita, and the Convento de Santa Catalina (Google Maps) which is often referred to as a city within a city.
As always, I recommend joining a free walking tour.
Mirador Yanahuara with El Misti volcano in the background.
El Misti and Chachani
El Misti and Chachani are two of the three volcanoes that dominate the city. Theoretically, it’s possible to “climb” both independently without any kind of permit by reaching the beginning of the trails via public transportation.
I haven’t done it, but a close friend climbed Chachani solo and without crampons (it is considered one of the easiest 6000ers in the world, but since the summit is perpetually frozen/snowy it’s highly advisable to have the proper equipment). Anyway, I don’t recommend it. Prices for guided tours are 200-300 Soles for El Misti and 350-450 Soles for Chachani.
The Colca Canyon
This in my opinion is the main reason to visit Arequipa. The Colca Valley is an area of absolute beauty and the main attraction is the canyon that reaches a depth of 3140 meters making it one of the deepest in the world. The area and the canyon in particular is also famous for the presence of condors.
It’s possible to visit the canyon in a day but, if you have time, I recommend doing a 2-night, 3-day trek. Many people decide to rely on an agency but, as I often do, I advise against it, not so much because of the price but for the freedom to do whatever you want, and above all because most organized tours won’t take you to the hot springs at Llahuar Lodge.
The Colca Canyon.
Colca Canyon DIY itinerary
The following itinerary avoids the crazy 3 a.m. departure but forces you to spend the night in Cabanaconde, which for those with limited time could be a problem, in which case there’s no solution: wake up in the middle of the night and take the 3:00 bus. My advice is to take the 11:00 bus so that you arrive in Cabanaconde in the late afternoon (5-6 hours). Here you’ll find a table with the various schedules.
The trails are easy to follow and there are often signs with directions. Here too, I recommend downloading Organic Maps to avoid problems.
Day 1 Cabanaconde -> San Galle
If you want to go and see the condors at Cruz del Condor (Google Maps), take the 6:30 camioneta (4 soles) and come back to Cabanaconde on the 9:30 bus (maybe there’s some camioneta/bus that comes by earlier). Once back in Cabanaconde you have two options:
- Go straight down to San Galle (about 2 hours) and spend the day lounging by the pool of one of the 4 available accommodations.
- Go to San Juan de Chuccho and Malata and then go down to San Galle (about 5-6 hours) and arrive late afternoon.
These are the lodges in San Galle: Sangalle Cielo Lodge, Eden Lodge, Oasis Paraiso Ecolodge and Tropical Lodge.
Day 2 San Galle-> Llahuar Lodge
Go up the canyon and walk along the road; at one point you’ll pass through a small village. Once you get back down to the bottom of the canyon and cross the bridge, enjoy a couple of hours of well-deserved relaxation at the thermal water pools.
The accommodation consists of small huts, and delicious vegetarian meals are provided. The place is a paradise. Llahuar Lodge.
Day 3 Llahuar Lodge -> Cabanaconde
Ideally, you should leave the lodge around 6 so that you can catch the 11:00 bus, but there’s always the option of catching the 14:00 one.
The whole thing is extremely simple and in my opinion a guide or a tour is really unnecessary. Take a look at the map just to get an idea of where all the places are and rely on Organic Maps in case you need it.
To access the entire Colca Canyon area you have to pay a boleto turístico (70 soles); from what I understand, this money is almost exclusively collected at the Cruz del Condor, which is a regular stop on all tours, but there may be attendants along the trails as well. Since I didn’t go there (yes, I still saw condors, but there it’s practically guaranteed), I ended up not paying. There are no ATMs in Cabanaconde or even in the villages along the road, so bring enough cash with you from Arequipa.
Me helping to clean up the submerged lower pools during the rainy season.
Where to sleep in Arequipa?
Friendly AQP is really cheap, breakfast is included and it’s not too far from downtown. The staff is really friendly. For those looking for a party hostel I recommend Wild Rover.
How to get to Arequipa?
From Puerto Maldonado I found a bus-cama for 30 soles, 14 to 15 hours. There are 3 companies and they all leave in the afternoon. From Cusco and Ica there are several night buses. From Puno it’s about 6 hours. From here there are frequent buses to continue your trip to Bolivia heading south.
Puno
Puno is a city located on the shores of Lake Titicaca at 3800 meters. I passed through without stopping as I was headed to Copacabana in Bolivia and would have had the chance to visit the famous lake from there.
In any case, the main attraction is the Uros floating islands, which have been described to me by some as absolutely “fake” and still exist for tourist purposes only (a bit like the Huacachina oasis) but I’m sure it could be an interesting experience.
Check out this article where a tour of the islands is recounted in detail.
How to reach Puno?
From Cusco and Arequipa there are very frequent buses, and it takes about 6 hours.
Uros Islands on Lake Titicaca.
All destinations north of Lima
Huaraz
Huaraz is considered the Peruvian trekking capital. It’s located at 3100 m altitude so if you’re coming directly from Lima give yourself a day or two before doing any trekking. Remember that as mentioned at the beginning of the guide, in the Andes the rainy season is from December to March, while the dry season is from June to September.
I was there in January and it rained punctually every afternoon, but I still managed to do day hikes by trying to leave early in the morning; for multi-day treks in a tent, it’s certainly not ideal.
What to do and see in Huaraz
There are literally hundreds of treks/hikes to do in the area but I want to list some of the most popular ones to do as day hikes.
Laguna 69
This glacial lake is literally a gem in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca and one of the most beautiful things I’ve seen. As you know by now I usually advise against tours but this is one of the rare cases where the tour is actually far better value than public transportation.
The tour costs about 40 soles, this includes transportation and a guide (who brings up the rear of the group, and everyone is free to climb at their own pace, so the guide is “useless” since the trail is extremely easy to follow). You leave around 5:30 and often stop for breakfast on the way (the place isn’t exactly cheap), arriving at the trailhead about 3 hours later.
The ascent is about 2-3 hours, the lagoon is at 4950m so if you’re not acclimatized and in decent shape it can be really tough. Once you get there, enjoy your picnic lunch and the beautiful views, some even go swimming! The descent is of course much quicker, and barring delays you’ll leave around 15:00 to be in Huaraz at 18:00. All Trails.
Laguna 69, Huaraz.
Laguna Churup
Take a minivan to the town called Llupa; the cost is 20 soles for a round-trip ticket (Google Maps). For recent schedules, check the reviews.
The trail climbs from 3800 to 4500 meters for about an hour and a half/two (All Trails). The trail isn’t particularly challenging but after you get to the waterfall just below the lagoon there’s a stretch of “climbing” to do; there are metal ropes to help you and personally I don’t think any special skills are required but it could obviously be challenging for some.
After about 10 minutes you’ll see the lagoon. The view of the lagoon with the mountains behind is really beautiful.
Entrance to the national park is 10 soles to be paid at the trailhead.
Laguna Churup, Huaraz.
Laguna de Aguak
I’ll preface this by saying that I barely had the pleasure of seeing the lagoon since the fog was so thick when I got to the top. However, after asking two friends who were luckier than me and seeing their photos, I believe the other two deserve more attention.
In any case, to get there all you have to do is take a minivan to Wilcahuaín for 2.5 soles (Google Maps). Inform the driver that you want to go to Laguna de Aguak, and you’ll be dropped off practically at the beginning of the trail. The ascent, which takes about 3-4 hours, is more challenging than the hikes to the other two lagoons (All Trails).
The trail to Laguna de Aguak with Huaraz in the background.
Pastoruri Glacier
Pastoruri Glacier is one of the few remaining tropical glaciers and can be easily reached by a tour from Huaraz. The minibus takes about 3 hours to get there, and then there’s a walk of just under an hour (All Trails).
Although I haven’t been there myself, many people have told me it’s worth the visit. I recommend it especially to those who don’t particularly enjoy hiking but still want to experience these fantastic landscapes.
Santa Cruz Trek
Another extremely popular trek to do with or without a tour (you can rent camping gear in Huaraz) is the Santa Cruz trek. It’s considered one of the most beautiful treks in the world, but after thinking about it a lot I decided not to do it (I was in Huaraz in January, during the rainy season). Some friends did it in early February and came back tired and demoralized after all the rain that falls like clockwork every day during this period. In this article you’ll find a detailed description of the Santa Cruz trek done with an agency.
Pastoruri Glacier.
Where to sleep in Huaraz?
I slept at Vacahouse, the furnishings are a bit old but the place is clean and cheap, the staff is really nice.
How to reach Huaraz?
From Lima, it takes about 8 hours to reach Huaraz. It’s also about 8 hours from Trujillo. If traveling by day, you might have to first go to Chimbote (about 2 hours).
Trujillo
Trujillo is a fairly large town in northern Peru, primarily used as a base for exploring the many archaeological sites in the valley. There are over 3,000 of these sites, dating back to the Chimu culture and other civilizations present before the arrival of the Spanish.
I didn’t get a chance to see the city itself and preferred to stay in Huanchaco, a small seaside town a short distance from Trujillo. This is a common choice and one that I recommend. Huanchaco is easily reached by the minivans that shuttle back and forth frequently, 2 soles.
What to do and see in Huanchaco
As mentioned above, I recommend staying in Huanchaco but what you read is also easily done from Trujillo given the short distance separating the two cities.
The ruins of Chan Chan
Many centuries ago Chan Chan (Google Maps) was the largest city on the entire American continent, capital of the Chimu civilization until it was invaded and later abandoned by the Incas in the 15th century.
The ruins are located halfway between Trujillo and Huanchaco so just take one of the many collectivos that go back and forth to reach them. Ask to be dropped off at the “entrada para Chan Chan.” The ruins are at the end of the road (hard to miss).
The collectivo from Huanchaco should cost 1 sol, while entry costs 10 soles.
The ruins of Chan Chan.
Surfing
The whole area is quite popular with surfers, and conditions seem to be good even for beginners, so much so that surf schools are numerous and even hostels often offer board and wetsuit rentals.
Huaca de la Luna (Temple of the Moon)
The site is located about 4 km from Trujillo and is a large structure (Google Maps) that, along with the Temple of the Sun, was part of an ancient Moche city called “Cerro Blanco” by modern archaeologists.
The site is well preserved because it was buried in sand for years, and the main attraction is a large wall decorated with carvings and colorful designs.
Unfortunately, I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting the site, but here are directions to reach it by public transportation:
From downtown Trujillo, take the collectivo that says “Campiña de Moche / Mochica Chimu” for 1.50 soles at the corner of Huayna Capac and Suárez on Avenida Los Incas near the Mercado Mayorista. Given the short distance, a taxi shouldn’t be too expensive, especially if shared.
Admission to the site is 10 soles and includes a guided tour in English or Spanish. To enter the museum, you need to pay an additional 5 soles.
Inside the Temple of the Moon.
Where to sleep in Huanchaco?
Wachaque Surf, highly recommended: the hostel is well laid out and clean, the breakfast (included) is delicious, the rooftop terrace is fantastic and the owner is really nice. Although pricier, a great hostel is ATMA Hostel & Yoga.
How to reach Trujillo/Huanchaco?
To reach Huanchaco you always have to go through Trujillo, which, being along the Panamericana, is easily reached by direct buses from many cities in Peru, including Chimbote, Huaraz and Lima to the south, Chiclayo, Piura, Mancora and Tumbes (border with Ecuador) to the north. Cajamarca and Chachapoyas to the east.
Cajamarca
Cajamarca is definitely out of the way for those who have little time to spend in Peru, but if you’re coming from Ecuador, or have quite a bit of time to spend in the country, then it’s definitely worth including in your itinerary.
What to do and see in Cajamarca
Cumbe Mayo
This is a pre-Columbian aqueduct built around 1000 BC to bring water during the dry season from the mountains to the city of Cajamarca. A tour from the city costs 18 Soles; alternatively, you can reach the site by taking a collectivo near Santa Apolonia (Google Maps) for 5 soles, asking the driver to drop you off at Cumbe Mayo. The scenic ride takes about an hour, 5 soles. Entrance to the site also costs 5 soles (Google Maps).
Ventanillas de Otuzco
The Ventanillas de Otuzco (Google Maps) are necropolises dating back to pre-Columbian times. They are easily accessible by collectivo from Cajamarca at a cost of 1-2 soles; entry costs 5 soles.
Ventanillas de Otuzco.
How to reach Cajamarca?
There are quite a few buses a day from Trujillo, about 7-8 hours. To reach Chachapoyas you first have to go through Celendin. To the north there are connections to Piura and Chiclayo.
Where to sleep in Cajamarca?
There are several cheap guesthouses in town. If you want to book something online, check out Hotel Los Gladiolos and La Pascana Hospedaje.
Chachapoyas
Chachapoyas is a town in the Amazon region of Peru and is used as a base for exploring some nearby sites. The area isn’t very touristy and in all likelihood you’ll only come across other backpackers, unlike in southern Peru.
What to do and see in Chachapoyas
Kuelap
It’s an ancient fortress with walls reaching 12 meters high. It housed up to 3,000 people inside. These are the largest ruins in South America dating back to pre-Inca times. It’s possible to reach the fortress in three ways:
- Via a cable car from Nuevo Tingo, 30 minutes, 20 soles then walk about a kilometer uphill (15-20 minutes) before reaching the fortress proper (Google Maps).
- By joining a tour costing about 80 soles that includes transportation, cable car, entry, guide and lunch.
- Walking from Tingo Viejo reachable by colectivo 6-7 soles, about an hour. Collectivos leave from the bus terminal on Calle Triunfo (Google Maps). The trail starts near the bridge and is well marked. It’s about 9 km and 1200 meters of elevation gain, 3-5 hours to climb, 2-3 hours to descend (Google Maps).
Admission to the site costs 20 soles.
Aerial image of Kuelap.
Yumbilla Waterfall
The waterfall (Google Maps) is located within the so-called “forest of giant waterfalls,” officially measured in 2007, reaching 895.4 meters in height making it the third highest in the world. It can be reached by taking a day trip (leaving early) by public transportation by doing the following: take a collectivo to Pedro Ruiz, about an hour, 5 soles, then take a mototaxi to Cuispes, 25 minutes, 15-20 soles; once you get to the main plaza it’ll be easy to be pointed in the right direction.
Admission costs 10 soles.
Karajia
They are anthropomorphic sarcophagi (Google Maps) built on the slopes of a rock face that can be reached at the end of a short, well-marked trail (about 20-30 minutes) starting from the village of Cruz Pata.
To reach Cruz Pata from Chachapoyas take a collectivo to Luya from the bus terminal (5 soles, 50 minutes) and then a collectivo to Cruz Pata (6 soles, 40 minutes).
Admission to the site costs 5 soles.
Anthropomorphic sarcophagi of Karajia in Chachapoyas.
Where to sleep in Chachapoyas?
Chacha international, cheap, clean and close to downtown.
How to reach Chachapoyas?
There are night buses from Trujillo (16:30) and Chiclayo (20:30 and 21:00) that arrive in Chachapoyas at 6:00 in the morning. There are also buses from Lima but the trip is really long (about 22 hours). From Mancora there are frequent buses to Chiclayo (7 hours). From Cajamarca it’s about 10 hours.
Iquitos
Iquitos is the largest city in the world that can’t be reached by land and is commonly used by tourists as a starting point for exploring the Amazon rainforest, particularly the Pacaya-Samiria Reserve. It’s also possible to sail down the Amazon River to Manaus from Iquitos.
In recent years, Iquitos has attracted many tourists interested in shamanic rituals, especially Ayahuasca ceremonies. Ayahuasca is a psychedelic infusion made from various Amazonian plants that can induce powerful hallucinogenic and purgative effects. Its use has long been associated with magical and therapeutic properties.
As mentioned earlier, I decided to visit the Amazon rainforest in Puerto Maldonado for simplicity and convenience, so I don’t have any firsthand experience, but from what I’ve read here and there, prices start at about 150 soles per day for a tour of one or more days.
For more detailed information about what to expect from Iquitos and how to get there, you can refer to this article.
Heron in the Peruvian Amazon rainforest.
Mancora
Arriving from backpacking in Ecuador, this is the first stop for many backpackers. It’s a small town by the sea that over the years has turned into the classic party town that every backpacker destination country has.
My interest in this type of destination has never been high. Moreover, I had been to Montañita recently so I preferred to skip it. In any case here besides lots of partying the conditions for surfing seem to be good, in case you’re interested!
Here you’ll find a guide to Mancora.
Sunset along the Peruvian coast.
Suggested itineraries in Peru
Below I list possible 2, 3 and 4 week itineraries. Obviously there’s no perfect itinerary given a time frame, so take what follows as inspiration and modify the itinerary according to your interests/budget!
2-week itinerary in Peru
This itinerary is designed for a two-week budget trip to Peru without overdoing it and spending most of your trip moving from one place to another, while making the most of your time. In any case, with so little time available, I strongly recommend focusing exclusively on southern Peru.
Lima (2 nights)
Spend the first two days recovering from jet lag and exploring the city. On the third day go to Paracas where you’ll spend the night.
Paracas (1 night)
After finishing the tour to the Paracas Reserve and Ballestas Islands go to Huacachina where you’ll spend the night.
Huacachina (1 night)
Spend the morning at the oasis and participate in the dune tour/sandboarding in the afternoon then take the overnight bus to Arequipa.
Arequipa (1 night / Colca Canyon 3 nights)
Explore the city on the first day and then trek the Colca Canyon as previously described. Take an overnight bus to Cusco on the fourth day.
Cusco (5 nights)
Day 1: Explore the city
Day 2: Rainbow Mountains
Day 3: DIY sacred valley
Day 4-5: Machu Picchu
Lima (1 night)
This part of the itinerary depends largely on your return flight. Theoretically, you could return the same day without having to spend the night in Lima. For all other travel, I recommend taking buses. However, for the Cusco-Lima route, consider flights, as the bus journey takes a minimum of 22 hours and doesn’t save much money.
Again, this is the itinerary I recommend for those with limited time/money. Visiting the Nazca Lines and Puno, and doing some trekking to Machu Picchu, is definitely doable (budget permitting) by cutting out the DIY Colca Canyon trek, for example.
3-week itinerary in Peru
With three weeks to spare, I still recommend focusing on the south of the country, following the two-week itinerary, and perhaps adding a tour of the Amazon rainforest in Puerto Maldonado and a couple of days in Puno on Lake Titicaca. Alternatively, if you love trekking, consider heading north to Huaraz, which is only an 8-hour bus ride from Lima.
Itinerary for 4 weeks or more in Peru
Four weeks is enough time to explore northern Peru decently as well. If you’re arriving from Ecuador to the north or Bolivia to the south, then crossing Peru from north to south or vice versa is clearly the best choice. If, on the other hand, you have Lima as your point of arrival and departure, my advice is to complete the 2-3 week itinerary just described and then take a Cusco – Cajamarca flight (if booked a bit in advance, it costs about 50-100€) and then travel back down to Lima by bus.
How to get around Peru
Buses in Peru
The bus and collectivos network is extremely efficient and makes it possible to reach any destination quite simply with the right planning. The only real problem with the bus network is that unlike other South American countries, where there’s a single bus terminal from where all companies depart, in Peru especially in the big cities each company tends to have its own terminal and they aren’t always close to each other, which is sometimes really frustrating.
For those seeking luxury, the best bus company is undoubtedly Cruz del Sur. Meals are provided on board and the “first class” cama service provides rows of 3 seats instead of 4, and is thus much more comfortable and spacious. Each seat also has its own entertainment screen. Obviously it’s more expensive than other companies but still cheap by European standards.
Update: Cruz del Sur has introduced a new pricing system and, essentially, the closer you sit to the restrooms on the top row, the cheaper the tickets. In fact, if you sit right by the door, seats are a third cheaper than PeruBus, which is another great company!
Another extremely popular company that works almost exclusively with tourists is Peru Hop; similar to an Interrail pass, it lets you pay for a pass that allows you to move whenever you want within a given itinerary with “pick up” at your hostel/hotel. This company also operates in Bolivia under the name Bolivia Hop and allows you to buy passes valid for both countries. Of course, the service offered, while convenient and efficient, is much more expensive than local buses.
To compare prices of the major Peruvian bus companies you can take a look at redbus.pe but as always I recommend buying your ticket directly at the terminal to get the best rates.
Taxis in Peru
Taxis in Peru don’t use meters, so make sure you agree on the price before setting off to avoid surprises and pointless arguments, maybe asking the staff at your hotel/hostel what the right price is for a given route.
Especially in big cities, be wary of obviously unofficial taxis and of drivers who tell you “this hotel/hostel is closed/full”: they often work on commission and will try to take you somewhere else.
Uber is a great alternative, but for now it only works in Arequipa and Lima.
A yellow taxi on the streets of Lima.
Domestic flights in Peru
Domestic flights aren’t extremely expensive and are definitely a great option for those who have little time to visit the country. The companies operating domestic flights are: LC Peru, LATAM Peru, Peruvian, StarPeru, Avianca Peru.
Some companies have different prices based on the currency you pay in so that tourists are charged the most expensive fares. Get smart!
Hitchhiking in Peru
Hitchhiking short distances is quite common in rural areas, but avoid doing it in cities. After getting a ride, it’s a good idea to leave a few soles, or at least offer, since Peru is extremely poor and gas is a significant expense for many people. In some cases you might be asked for a “contribution to expenses”.
Backpacking Peru: costs
In short, how much does a trip to Peru cost?
A flight from Europe, if booked in advance, shouldn’t cost more than 600/700 euros, except during periods like August and New Year’s. Either way, I recommend reading my guide on how to find cheap flights.
Cost of transport in Peru
Transportation is really cheap, especially if you have the patience and the will to avoid expensive services and companies like Cruz del Sur and Peru Hop, preferring the companies used by locals. Prices with these companies are often negotiable. For many destinations you’ll find the bus ticket prices, just to give you an idea (prices are indicative and in some cases may not be up to date). In general, local buses and collectivos shouldn’t cost more than 5 soles per hour.
Cost of accommodation in Peru
A hostel dorm can cost anywhere from 25 to 50 soles per night; much depends on the city and the time of year, as well as, of course, the quality of the accommodation. For a double room in a hostel, but also in a basic hotel, expect to pay around 100 soles.
Cost of food in Peru
Especially at lunchtime, it’s not hard to find a menu of the day starting from 5-10 soles (appetizer, first/second course, drink) at some comedor or on the street, although a lot depends on the area/city. For slightly more upscale restaurants, expect to pay at least 20 soles.
A plate of ceviche.
Cost of activities in Peru
Machu Picchu, the Nazca Lines and an Amazon rainforest tour are undoubtedly the most expensive activities to do in Peru. All the other archaeological sites are considerably cheaper, and many treks/tours are much cheaper and can often be done independently.
To sum up, Peru is extremely cheap and, among all South American countries, second only to Bolivia for cost of living. A budget-conscious backpacker can comfortably get by on about 25-30€ per day. If you love nightlife or prefer a more comfortable travel style (like flashpacking), a budget of at least 40€ per day would be more appropriate.
For lots of tricks and tips to keep your budget under control, I recommend this article.
To reduce exchange and withdrawal fees, see my guide to the best travel cards.
Backpacking Peru: safety
Is Peru dangerous? The short answer is no, although some areas are absolutely to be avoided, especially in Lima, where certain neighborhoods are considered extremely dangerous even by locals, especially at night.
That said, the main tourist areas can be considered safe, and using common sense you shouldn’t have any problems. Either way, I recommend taking a look at this article on travel safety, where I give lots of useful tips to minimize the chances of something unpleasant happening.
Are you planning a trip to Peru? Check out these posts:
What to bring on a trip to Peru
Which travel backpack to choose
Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!
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