Bolivia Travel Guide
When I think of Bolivia, what comes to mind is its battered roads, its wary people, the not-so-great food and the worst internet connection I’ve ever had, but also a country rich in natural beauty and culture.
Often called the Tibet of the Americas, Bolivia is considered one of the most “remote” countries in the Americas because, along with Paraguay, it’s landlocked. What’s more, Bolivia is the most indigenous country on the American continent, with about 60% of the population of pure Native American descent.
I spent a month backpacking around the country, and in this guide you’ll find loads of useful tips to plan your trip as best you can.
Quick menu
- Why visit Bolivia
- When to visit Bolivia
- Documents and vaccinations to enter Bolivia
- What to do and see in Bolivia
- Suggested itineraries in Bolivia
- How to get around Bolivia
- Backpacking Bolivia: costs
- Backpacking Bolivia: safety
Laguna Colorada, Reserva Eduardo Avaroa.
Why visit Bolivia
- Culture and biodiversity: A bit like all the countries straddling the Andes, Bolivia offers an endless range of climates and ecosystems that are extremely different from one another. From the Andes to the rainforest, by way of the highest navigable lake in the world (Lake Titicaca) and the super-famous largest salt flat in the world. On top of that, as I mentioned earlier, there’s a very high concentration of indigenous people who still keep their own customs and traditions.
- A paradise for adrenaline lovers. Climb one of the easiest 6,000-meter peaks in the world (Huayna Potosi), ride a bike down the Camino de los Yungas (Camino de la Muerte) and cross the Atacama Desert (one of the driest places in the world): in short, there’s certainly no shortage of adventures.
- The cheapest country in South America. Bolivia is by far the cheapest country on the continent; with prices comparable to Southeast Asia, it’s definitely a budget destination that also suits backpackers.
When to visit Bolivia
Speaking generally, the climate varies radically according to altitude, but it’s still possible to divide it into two seasons.
The dry season, which runs from May to October, is the best time to visit Bolivia. In the highlands, especially at night, it can be cold, but the days are almost always sunny, making it the best time for trekking. At lower altitudes and in the Amazon rainforest, temperatures are lower than in the rainy season, but rainfall, although lower, is still present.
The rainy season, which runs from November to March, is much more pronounced at low altitudes and in the Amazon rainforest, where roads are often impassable, temperatures are high, humidity is high, and mosquitoes are abundant. In the highlands, it rains less, and temperatures are pleasant, but given the almost daily rainfall and the often cloud-covered peaks, it’s not the best time for trekking.
Trekking to the Maragua crater.
Documents and vaccinations to enter Bolivia
With an Italian passport (valid for more than 6 months) you receive a 30-day tourist visa when you enter the country; the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours. The visa can be renewed free of charge for up to 90 days.
To renew your visa, you need to go to an immigration office with your passport and the green immigration card (received when you enter the country). In La Paz, the office is located at 1433 Avenida Camacho. Here you can find a detailed guide.
If you exceed the duration of your visa, the moment you leave the country, you’ll have to pay a fine of 20 bolivianos for each extra day.
For more information, please visit the official website.
Bolivia doesn’t require any mandatory vaccinations, but Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B, and yellow fever are recommended, the latter especially if you decide to visit the Amazon rainforest.
CAUTION: If you’re coming from or have recently been to Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Ecuador, French Guiana, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Trinidad and Tobago, Venezuela, or any African nation, yellow fever vaccination is mandatory. Often no checks at all are carried out at land borders, but airlines tend to be stricter.
For up-to-date information on visas and everything else, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).
What to do and see in Bolivia
The Amazon rainforest almost entirely covers the northeast of the country. Most tourist attractions are concentrated in the south and east, in predominantly mountainous areas.
In this guide, prices are expressed in the local currency called “Boliviano,” often abbreviated as “Bs” or “BOB.” The exchange rate is about 1€ = 13 BOB. For the current rate, I suggest you take a look at this page. Now let’s look at the best of Bolivia.
N.b. Several times throughout the guide you’ll find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the AllTrails app, you need to upgrade to the paid version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.
La Paz
At 4,058 meters above sea level, La Paz is the highest capital city in the world, and if you’re arriving from Europe you’ll definitely notice it. The city is certainly not spectacular and looks like a high-altitude jungle of traffic and concrete, but in some respects it’s definitely fascinating.
What to do and see in La Paz
Join the free walking tour
The tour (in English) isn’t free, as that isn’t allowed by law, but it costs only 3 dollars. Of all the ones I’ve participated in, it was definitely one of the most interesting. You’ll be told some really interesting stories about the city’s history, starting with the famous San Pedro Prison, a rather peculiar prison.
Take the teleferico to El Alto
Following the example of Medellin in Colombia, La Paz has created a cable car system that connects the city center to the poorer neighborhoods surrounding it. For travelers, it’s a way to enjoy the most striking views. On a clear day, the top of Mount Illimani can be seen in the background.
There are two lines from which you have a good view:
- The red line runs from Estación Teleférico Central (Google Maps) to Estación 16 de Julio. Once you reach El Alto, exit the station to enjoy the view fully.
- The yellow line from Chuqui Apu/Libertador to Mirador/Qhana Pata also offers good city views.
The cable car system works like a subway. You pay 3 bolivianos each time you enter the system.
If you get the chance to visit El Alto on a Thursday or a Sunday, don’t miss the market (Google Maps), which is one of the largest in South America and where you can literally find anything (take the red line of the teleferico). Watch out for the pickpockets who seem to infest the market.
La Paz from above.
Cholita wrestling
Cholitas are indigenous Bolivian women known for their distinctive attire, which includes bowler hats atop their heads and wide, brightly colored skirts.
Every Thursday at 18:30 and Sunday at 16:30, these women put on a wrestling show that draws hundreds of people and over the years has become a tourist attraction in La Paz.
Let’s be clear: the event is definitely bizarre and certainly not a must-see, but it’s an unusual thing to do in La Paz!
Most agencies/hostels sell the tour including transportation, snacks, admission and a small souvenir for around 85 bolivianos. You can obviously organize it all yourself, but remember that the best seats are reserved by the agencies and El Alto isn’t a place where it’s advisable to wander around in the evening.
Valle de la Luna
The Valley of the Moon (Google Maps) is a rather unusual set of rock formations about 10km from La Paz. It isn’t a real valley but rather a cluster of miniature canyons and rocky peaks.
All the agencies in La Paz offer the visit, but getting there on your own is really easy and, all in all, a nice way to spend half a day.
How to get to the Valle de la Luna from La Paz?
Take a colectivo heading to Mallasa from the stop near the San Francisco church and Calle Sagarnaga, 3Bs, 30-40 minutes, or about 30Bs by taxi. You’ll be dropped off right in front of the entrance. To get back, just take one of the many colectivos heading to downtown La Paz.
The site is open from 8:00 to 17:30 and admission costs 15Bs.
Valle de la Luna.
Camino de los Yungas or Camino de la Muerte (death road)
Near La Paz there’s a road that in 1995 was named the most dangerous road in the world. About 61 km long, for years it was the only route to the capital for the cars and trucks traveling the La Paz-Coroico stretch. Between two hundred and three hundred people lost their lives on it every year.
Fortunately, there’s now a new road that has completely replaced the Camino de la Muerte, which has become a tourist attraction.
Along the Camino de los Yungas you can in fact ride a bike downhill, starting at 4,650 meters in not exactly mild temperatures and finishing at 1,200 meters, where you’ll find an almost tropical climate. The whole experience and the completely different landscapes you ride through definitely make it a great way to spend a day.
As for safety, don’t worry too much: you’ll be given protective gear and a helmet. The road has practically no traffic, there are guardrails on the most dangerous stretches and you can ride down at your own pace without any rush. If for any reason you need it (I doubt you will), you can hop on the minibus that follows right behind at any time.
The tour offered by all the agencies in La Paz seems to have a minimum price of 300Bs (I tried at least 10 different agencies), plus 50Bs of road maintenance fee. The price includes transportation, equipment, snacks and a buffet lunch, complete with a swim in the pool once you reach the bottom. All in all, it’s something I’d recommend.
Camino de la Muerte (death road)
Trekking in and around La Paz
It’s easy to find an agency in La Paz that offers 2- or 3-day tours to climb Huayna Potosi. It’s considered one of the easiest 6,000-meter peaks in the world and is regularly climbed by thousands of more or less experienced mountaineers every year.
Prices range from 900 to 1,200 Bs for the 3-day tour. I didn’t do it myself, as I was in Bolivia during the rainy season and the weather forecast for the days I was in La Paz wasn’t favorable, but some friends decided to climb it and, although it’s no walk in the park, as long as you’re in decent shape and sufficiently acclimatized it’s definitely doable and undoubtedly something unforgettable.
Another much easier trek—almost totally downhill—is the El Choro Trek (All Trails), which starts in La Cumbre (4,700m) and ends in Chairo (1,500m). You can do it independently without too much trouble with your own camping gear—or rent it from one of the many stores in La Paz. Find an overview/guide of the route here.
Tiwanaku
These are truly impressive ruins dating back to the pre-Inca era; the huge stone blocks that make up the site aren’t native to the place where the ruins stand, and that’s why Tiwanaku has been dubbed the Stonehenge of the Americas. Either way, it’s a really interesting site and I recommend it; admission costs 100Bs.
To get to Tiwanaku from downtown La Paz, first get to the “Cementerio” by taxi and microbus (1.50Bs, they leave near Plaza San Francisco); from the Cementerio it’s two blocks to Calle Eyzaguirre, where the microbuses to Tiwanaku leave from, 10-15Bs, about 2 hours. You can find a detailed guide here.
Tiwanaku.
Where to sleep in La Paz?
No Fear Hostel is nice and cheap, offers a hearty breakfast, and is within easy walking distance of the bus terminal.
Coroico
It’s a small town that sits atop a hill at the end of Death Road. Here, the almost tropical climate is much more pleasant than in La Paz. It’s a resort town where you can find many lodges surrounded by greenery, spas, etc. Many locals, especially from La Paz, come here to spend the weekend. It can also be used as an intermediate stop to break up the trip to and from Rurrenabaque.
What to do and see in Coroico
As mentioned above, the main activities here are relaxing and walking in the lush greenery that characterizes this area of Bolivia. Many hostels and lodges have yoga sessions and pools and offer massages. In short, it’s a small town to spend a few days relaxing surrounded by nature.
Where to sleep in Coroico?
Sol y Luna is a fairly popular lodge. I slept in a cheap hostel downtown, but there’s definitely better in town.
How to reach Coroico?
There are minibuses to La Paz that leave frequently from 3 in the morning (20-25 Bs). If you plan to do the Death Road and visit Coroico, to save time and money, you could take your backpack with you on the morning of the tour and get dropped off at the foot of Coroico once the tour is over, instead of returning to La Paz.
A bus to Rurrenabaque departs around noon every day. The journey takes 15-20 hours (it depends a lot on the season) and costs 100-120 Bs; I strongly advise against it during the rainy season.
The rainforest surrounding Coroico.
Rurrenabaque
Also known as “Rurre,” it has grown in popularity in recent years, especially among backpackers, as it seems to offer the cheapest tours to visit the Amazon rainforest. The main attractions here are Madidi Park and the famous pampas surrounding it.
What to do and see in Rurrenabaque
Visit the Amazon rainforest
Once you arrive in town, it won’t be hard to find a local agency ready to offer you any service you want. I didn’t go to Rurrenabaque because I’d recently been on a tour in Peru, but 900Bs for a 3-day tour seems to be a standard price. Admission to Madidi Park costs 125Bs, while the pampas cost 150Bs. To see more wildlife, it’s better to visit the Pampas. In June 2023 a reader of the blog told me that the 5-day, 4-night tours covering both jungle and pampas cost at least 1,500 Bs.
For reviews and comments on the various lodges, I recommend taking a look here.
How to reach Rurrenabaque?
Buses from La Paz cost about 100 Bs and take even more than 20 hours. Some people have described the trip to me as a real adventure. It should be avoided during the rainy season because the risk of getting stuck in the mud is high. In any case, it depends a lot on your time and budget.
The alternative is to take a flight with Amaszonas (500-600 Bs for a one-way flight).
Copacabana
Copacabana is a small town on the Bolivian shores of Lake Titicaca, which, at 3,821 meters above sea level, is the highest navigable lake in the world. For many, this is a better base than Puno and Juliaca in Peru for exploring the lake, as the atmosphere is much more relaxed and pleasant. Interestingly, the famous beach in Rio de Janeiro is named after this village and not vice versa!
The trail that crosses Isla del Sol from north to south.
What to do and see in Copacabana
Isla del Sol
You can take a boat from Copacabana to Isla del Sol, home to some sacred sites dating back to the Inca era and spectacular scenery.
Most people follow this one-day itinerary:
- At 8:00, departure by boat from Copacabana (50Bs round trip) and arrival in the northern part of the island around 10:00.
- Here you can explore some ruins and then walk to the southern part of the island (it’s a 2-3 hour walk, which I recommend if you’re acclimatized) or go back to the boat, which heads to the southern part of the island around 13:30.
- The boat that left at 13:30 arrives at the southern part of the island after about an hour and leaves again for Copacabana around 16:00.
Food on the island is much more expensive than on the mainland, so if you’re on a tight budget I recommend bringing a packed lunch.
CAUTION: Since March 2017 it’s no longer possible to visit the northern and central parts of the island due to disagreements between the communities that control these areas. June 2023 update from a reader of the blog: “You can visit the northern part and walk to the southern part, but here, to get back, you have to pay for a new boat ride with companies run by the southern community (one way costs 30 bs)”. If you like, you could walk around the island without having to take the boat, as described on this page.
For this reason, many tours combine a visit to the southern part with the nearby Isla de la Luna.
From Copacabana you can also join tours to the Uro Islands.
Cerro Calvario
It’s the hill overlooking Copacabana (Google Maps). It’s a short walk from downtown Copacabana (about 30 minutes), although the climb is fairly steep and the altitude (almost 4,000 meters) can make itself felt… take it slow!
I recommend going up for the sunset, like many people do. The sun setting over Lake Titicaca and the view of the town below are truly spectacular.
Copacabana seen from the top of Cerro Calvario.
How to get to Copacabana?
To and from La Paz, buses leave regularly every hour from the terminal cementerio, not from the central one, and cost 15-20 Bs (bus prices are often negotiable); you also have to pay 2Bs for the boat that takes you across a stretch of the lake, while the bus rides on a sort of raft.
To and from Puno in Peru, buses cost about 35 Bs. The bus company Titicaca also offers a direct service to Cusco (you only have to get off at the border); the cost is 100-120 Bs. There are 3 buses a day; I recommend the 18:30 night bus, which arrives in Cusco around 5 in the morning. If you’re heading to Peru, I recommend taking a look at my guide to backpacking in Peru.
Where to sleep in Copacabana?
There are many options right downtown where you can get a private room for 30-50 Bs. If you want to book online, check out Hostal Sol y Luna.
Oruro
Oruro is located 3,700 meters above sea level and is the capital of the department of the same name, situated in the center of the great Bolivian plateau. The city isn’t a tourist destination for most of the year, but this changes during a very specific period: carnival! In fact, Oruro is home to what is considered one of the world’s largest and most beautiful carnivals.
So, if you’re in Bolivia from February 4 to March 10, check the carnival dates and try to fit it into your itinerary.
How to reach Oruro?
Buses to and from La Paz leave frequently, about 3-4 hours, 15-20 Bs.
The Oruro carnival.
Cochabamba
Also known as the City of Eternal Spring, Cochabamba isn’t exactly a tourist destination and attracts far more expats than travelers. In fact, the only tourist attraction here is the Cristo de la Concordia, which is slightly larger than the Cristo in Rio de Janeiro, making it the second largest in the world. However, the city remains an excellent destination for anyone who wants to get away from the classic tourist spots and come into contact with the local culture and people.
Cochabamba is also an ideal base for anyone who wants to explore Torotoro National Park, famous for dinosaur remains, rock formations and waterfalls. The park can be visited by arranging the tour directly in Cochabamba but for those on a budget it’s advisable to reach the village inside the park by bus (5-7 hours) and arrange it from here; there are numerous hostels to spend the night, such as Hostal Wilma and Como en Casa. Entrance to the park costs 100 Bs, and the park must be explored with a guide but fortunately there are tours that leave daily from the guides’ office in the main square and the cost is shared among all participants, which is ideal especially for those traveling alone.
A reader of the blog also recommends visiting Tarata, which can be reached from Cochabamba in just under an hour on the same micro you take to go to Torotoro; Tarata is a very nice pueblito famous for its “comida”: it seems to be the place where you eat best in Bolivia! The microbuses to Torotoro and Tarata leave at all hours from the intersection of avenida Republica and calle Valle Grande, price 35 Bs. In Torotoro the minimum price for a bed with a shared bathroom is 40 Bs.
How to get to Cochabamba
From La Paz by bus it’s about 8 hours, 30 – 60 Bs. From Santa Cruz it’s about 10 hours, 50 – 100 Bs, while from Sucre it’s 8-9 hours, 30-50 Bs.
Sucre
Sucre was Bolivia’s capital for years and is still its constitutional capital. Given its history, there are loads of well-preserved colonial buildings, so much so that the historic center was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991.
The city, by far the most beautiful in Bolivia, sits at 2,800 meters, which gives it a really pleasant spring-like climate all year round, a bit like Medellin in Colombia. The climate, the beauty of the city and the really low cost of living mean that many backpackers and digital nomads stay for a long time, and many decide to take Spanish lessons, which are really cheap!
What to do and see in Sucre
The city and its surroundings really have a lot to offer and, since it’s really popular with people visiting the country, there are loads of activities like paragliding, horseback riding etc. Below, as always, I list some activities you can do independently and cheaply.
Explore the city
As I said, the streets near the center are really pretty and photogenic, so just wander around Plaza 25 de Mayo (Google Maps) to get a taste of the city. I also recommend visiting the Mercado Central (Google Maps), where on the second floor you’ll find loads of really cheap local food for lunch.
Walk up to la Recoleta (Google Maps): here, in the main square in front of the church, there are often events, and the view over the city is great. The “Mirador cafe” isn’t too expensive and offers an incredible view.
Mirador Cafe.
7 cascadas
The falls are certainly not spectacular, and during the dry season, there’s very little water flowing, so it’s best to visit them from November to April, but the setting is really nice (I hope the area has been cleared of trash) and it’s still a nice way to spend a day with friends. All the agencies in Sucre offer the tour, but it’s easy to do on your own.
How to get to the 7 cascadas?
Take a “Q” line minibus from Calle Junin outside the Central Market and get off at Alegria (the last stop); it costs 1.50Bs, while by taxi it’s about 20Bs. Once you get off the bus, keep walking in the same direction and, once you’ve passed the houses, turn right and go down the hill until you reach the river, then follow it upstream for about 45 minutes (you need to scramble over rocks on some stretches), or take the path on the left just after the bridge. It’s all really easy, but you can always download Organic Maps to be more sure of the direction to follow.
Maragua Crater
This is a two-day trek, which I strongly recommend, through surreal landscapes, small rural communities and even dinosaur footprints. You can do it with a tour, but it’s also relatively easy on your own if you do the following. First of all, download Organic Maps to your phone (you’ll almost certainly need it). Take the 9:30 bus (10Bs) from the “Parada a Ravelo” to Potolo (by taxi from the center it’s about 15-20Bs) and ask to get off at the “Capilla de Chataquila”.
Shortly after, on the left, there’s a well-marked and well-maintained Inca trail to follow downhill to the bottom of the valley (you have to pay 10Bs to the community once you reach the end of the trail). From here on you often walk along the road, and I recommend relying on what Organic Maps tells you, until you reach the small village of Maragua (Marawa) in the middle of the giant crater. I was with a friend, and we slept in really nice huts for 65Bs each, with dinner and breakfast included.
The next day, go up the crater and follow the road past the villages of Ninu Mayu and Chulpa (I suggest you set your GPS for “dinosaur footprints”). Here, in theory, you have to pay 20Bs, but when we arrived, there was no one there. From here on, we walked relying on the GPS for at least half an hour before we got to a dirt road that led us to Potolo (the road/trail was either not there, or we didn’t see it; set the GPS for Potolo).
From Potolo to Sucre the buses (12Bs) in theory leave frequently, but try not to arrive late to avoid spending the night in Potolo.
If, for whatever reason, you don’t want to do the trek on your own, then I recommend going with Condor Trekkers, an NGO that operates in Sucre and invests its profits in local culture and ecology.
The Maragua crater.
Where to sleep in Sucre?
Villa Oropeza is a hostel with excellent reviews. I stayed at Kultur Berlin: the hostel is well run but doesn’t have a family atmosphere, and the bar inside isn’t exactly cheap.
How to reach Sucre?
Sucre is well connected with all the main cities in the country; there are direct buses to and from La Paz, Oruro, Potosí, Santa Cruz, Cochabamba and Tarija.
Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.
Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz is located at a low altitude near the Amazon rainforest and is a great base from which to explore the forest and some national parks. The city has a different atmosphere from the rest of Bolivia: it’s actually considered the richest and most prosperous city in the country, with one of the highest growth rates in the world, it’s much more modern than the other cities, and the rest of Bolivia considers its inhabitants snobs!
What to do and see in Santa Cruz
I didn’t visit the city myself, as in itself it doesn’t have much to offer, apart from what seems to be a great nightlife. As I said, many travelers use it exclusively as a base to explore the nearby national parks, including Amboro National Park, just two hours from Santa Cruz. It’s estimated that only 50% of the park has been explored and that it holds the world record for the number of bird species sighted.
Anyway, if you’re interested in visiting this incredible national park without using Santa Cruz as your base, I recommend doing it from Samaipata, a small mountain village which, coming from Sucre, is about two hours by bus before Santa Cruz. Very popular with backpackers, it definitely offers a more relaxed atmosphere and a better climate. Besides visiting Amboro Park, there are other interesting things to do; I recommend you check out this article.
A reader of the blog recommends staying in Samaipata, a small village near Santa Cruz de la Sierra, a great and much more relaxed alternative for visiting Amboró park; you can get there directly from Cochabamba on buses that leave from calle 6 de agosto (40bs – about 8/9 hours).
How to reach Santa Cruz?
If you decide to visit Santa Cruz, it makes sense to do so from Sucre: by bus it’s about 12 hours, and expect to pay around 100 Bs for a decent bus. To reach Samaipata you have to take the same bus (9-10 hours).
Where to sleep in Santa Cruz?
Nomad Hostel seems to be a very popular choice.
The Samaipata fort.
Potosí
The city is famous for the nearby Cerro Rico mountain, whose silver mines are among the richest in the world. The mountain has literally been drilled through far and wide for centuries, and to this day about 10,000 people work inside these tunnels in inhumane conditions.
Since the mine tour is the main reason people visit the city, and having read everywhere about how terrible the conditions the miners work in are, I preferred to skip it, but I think it could be a direct way to understand the price society pays for the extraction of precious metals.
A tour of the mines costs about 100 Bs. If you’re looking for information on what to do in Potosí besides visiting the mines, then I recommend taking a look at this article.
One blog reader recommended a visit to the Casa de la Moneda, where they tell you about the development and subsequent collapse of the Bolivian economy (since 1956 they haven’t printed their own currency in the country but imported it!).
The miners of Potosí.
Tarija
It’s a small town in southern Bolivia near the border with Argentina. It’s located in the middle of the wine country, has a great climate and the relaxed atmosphere of a small town.
What to do and see in Tarija
The city and its surroundings lack phenomenal attractions, but as mentioned, the center is nice and really pleasant. I was lucky enough to visit it during the carnival, when people roamed the streets armed with water balloons and the festive atmosphere in the streets was really pleasant.
Some popular excursions in the area are the tour of some of the region’s wineries, which costs about 100 Bs, and the trek in the Valley of the Condors.
How to reach Tarija?
From Sucre it takes about 10 hours. In February 2017 only two companies operated the route, and after negotiating I managed to get the initial price down from 120 Bs to 70 Bs (as often happens in Bolivia). From Tupiza it’s about 50 Bs and 7 hours of travel; the road is extremely scenic and, if possible, I strongly recommend traveling during the day so you can enjoy it to the fullest.
Where to sleep in Tarija?
Casa Blanca Hostel is a great option near the center.
The road connecting Tarija and Tupiza.
Tupiza
Tupiza is another small town on the border with Argentina, and for many it’s a place to pass through and stop for a night before leaving Bolivia or right after arriving from Argentina. Another reason many people visit Tupiza is to join an extended version of the classic Salt Desert tour.
What to do and see in Tupiza
The town is really small and not particularly pretty, but the area around it is full of valleys, canyons and interesting rock formations to explore on foot or on horseback.
Puerta del Diablo
It’s a rock formation not far from town; it’s supposed to be the main attraction, but to be honest the whole valley is really photogenic and definitely worth visiting (Google Maps). Reaching it on foot is easy by following my directions, but to be on the safe side, as always, I recommend downloading Organic Maps:
From the city center, follow the old railroad tracks leading south out of town for about 10-15 minutes until you reach a large building on the right that serves as a gym/pool; turn right there.
Follow the dirt road (and the horse poop!) toward the rock formations you can see in the distance on the left. Once you enter the valley, there are signs with the names of the main rock formations. The path through the valley is fairly easy to follow all the way to its end, where the Inca canyon begins. The whole thing shouldn’t take more than 3 hours; remember that it’s really hot, so bring enough water with you.
The rock formations around Tupiza near the Puerta del Diablo.
Salar de Uyuni from Tupiza
You can visit the famous salt desert starting from Tupiza instead of Uyuni. It’s a 4-day tour, versus the 3 days of the “classic tour”, which gives you the chance to visit some less-traveled areas and reach some iconic places at different times from those leaving from Uyuni. If you’re simply looking for the cheapest option, then I recommend taking a bus to Uyuni and joining a tour from there, but if budget isn’t a problem, then this is definitely an alternative, less “mainstream” experience.
The surreal landscapes visited during the jeep tour.
How to get to Tupiza?
From Villazon (border with Argentina), it’s 15Bs, 1-2 hours.
From Potosí, it’s 6-7 hours, 40-50Bs.
From Uyuni it’s 5-6 hours, 50Bs.
From Tarija, it’s about 50 Bs and 7 hours of travel time.
Where to sleep in Tupiza?
There are many hostels not listed on the various booking sites. Walking downtown from the station and finding a dorm bed for 30-40 Bs won’t be difficult. If you want to book online, check out Hostal Aramayo.
Uyuni
It’s a small town in the middle of nowhere that started out as a trading outpost and a stop on Bolivia’s first railroad network. Now it’s by far the most touristy town in Bolivia, thanks to the largest salt desert in the world, from which it takes its name.
The Salt Desert (salar de Uyuni)
The Salt Desert is the remnants of vast prehistoric lakes that have dried up. The landscape is really incredible and striking; no one on a trip to Bolivia should consider this an optional destination.
It can be visited in a day from Uyuni, but if your budget allows, I strongly recommend joining the classic 3-day tour. This tour, in addition to the salt desert, will take you to see other truly incredible sites: colorful lagoons filled with flamingos, geysers, snow-capped volcanoes, hot springs, curious rock formations, and much more, reaching as far as the Chilean border. If you wish, you can continue to San Pedro de Atacama or stay aboard the jeep and return to Uyuni.
Laguna Verde near the border with Chile.
The itinerary of the various agencies is pretty much standard: you travel in big 7-seater jeeps, sleeping in basic accommodations along the way, and everything is included in the price (including transportation from the border to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile, if you need it). Although I heard some unpleasant stories, I have to say that our driver was really professional and friendly. The trip certainly can’t be called comfortable, but for those used to backpacking it’s no big deal, and in any case it’s absolutely worth it.
In my opinion one agency is as good as another, so shop around Uyuni and choose the cheapest one. I paid 600 Bs in March 2017, but I heard you can get it down to 500. A reader of the blog told me that in June 2023 the tours cost no less than 900 Bs. To this price you have to add 150 Bs for the entrance to the Reserva Natural de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa.
If you want to read what the 3-day tour includes in detail, then I recommend taking a look at this article.
Laguna Colorada, Eduardo Avaroa Reserve.
A quick aside for those continuing on to Chile: try to change your bolivianos in Uyuni (the exchange rate is great and there are 2-3 exchange offices along the main road), but make sure you have with you the 150 Bs to pay the entrance fee to the reserve and at least another 10 Bs to cover the exit tax at the Chilean border (there are no ATMs in the desert). Officially, the tax doesn’t exist, but being in the middle of nowhere, you have no choice (corrupt immigration). Some friends, knowing this, had their passports stamped in Uyuni. I exchanged the few bolivianos I had left at the border with other travelers about to embark on the tour in the opposite direction.
For those on a really tight budget who only want to see the salt desert, it’s possible to take any bus to Oruro, get off at Colchani, and then walk in the direction of the salt desert, which isn’t far away.
The salt flats at sunset. Instagram!
Salt flats: when to go?
The best time is probably just after the rainy season is over between April and May when rainfall is low but you can still enjoy the famous “mirror” effect you see in the picture.
How to reach Uyuni?
From Sucre, it’s about 80 Bs and 7-8 hours of travel time. From Potosí, it’s about 4 hours, 30 Bs, while from Tupiza, it’s about 50 Bs and 7 hours of travel time.
Where to sleep in Uyuni?
There aren’t any particularly nice hostels I can recommend, but there are plenty of budget-friendly options where you can spend the night. Unfortunately, I don’t recall the name of the place where I stayed. If you want to book online, check out Piedra Blanca Backpackers Hostel.
Suggested itineraries in Bolivia
Below I list possible 2-, 3- and 4-week itineraries. Obviously there’s no such thing as the perfect itinerary for a given amount of time, so take what follows as inspiration and adapt the itinerary to your interests/budget, bearing in mind what you’ve read so far!
2-week itinerary in Bolivia
This itinerary is designed for a two-week trip to Bolivia without trying to do too much and spending most of your trip moving from one place to another, but above all with an eye on the budget.
La Paz (3 nights)
Day 1:
If you arrive in La Paz from Europe, you’ll most likely need at least a couple of days to acclimatize. So spend the first day taking it as easy as possible.
Day 2:
Choose some of the following activities: free walking tour, cable car to El Alto, Cholita wrestling, Valley of the Moon.
Day 3:
Do the Death Road.
Copacabana (2 nights)
Day 4:
Leave early in the morning from La Paz, book the tour to Isla del Sol for the next day, and go up to Cerro Calvario to see the sunset.
Day 5:
Tour to Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna.
Sucre (2 nights)
Day 6:
Go back to La Paz and catch a night bus to Sucre (they leave between 18:30 and 20:00). If you arrive early, you can leave your luggage at the bus terminal (just inside on the left) and spend a couple of hours in La Paz before catching the bus.
Day 7:
Explore Sucre.
Day 8:
7 cascadas or any other activity/tour you like in and around Sucre.
Potosí (2 nights)
Day 9:
Bus from Sucre to Potosí in the morning. Explore the city and maybe book the mine tour for the following day.
Day 10:
Take a mine tour in the morning and transfer to Uyuni in the early afternoon. Upon arrival in Uyuni, book the tour for the following day.
Uyuni (3 nights)
Day 11:
Salar de Uyuni (first day of the 3-day tour described above).
Day 12:
Eduardo Avaroa Reserve (second day of the 3-day tour described above).
Day 13:
Third day of the 3-day tour described above. Return to Uyuni. Night bus to La Paz.
Day 14:
Arrival in La Paz. Return home.
3-week itinerary in Bolivia
On top of what we’ve just seen, with an extra week available I’d personally consider visiting the Amazon rainforest in Rurrenabaque or Santa Cruz, and spending a few more days in Sucre, which is a really pleasant city, maybe also doing the trek to the Maragua crater.
Two other things I’d personally consider are a few days of relaxing in Coroico and, if you’re interested, the ascent of Huayna Potosi, which, if done after more than two weeks at high altitude and therefore sufficiently acclimatized, should be doable for many people and is undoubtedly an incredible experience.
4-week itinerary in Bolivia
With 4 weeks available, you can visit practically all the main tourist destinations described above, or travel more “slowly”, basically following the 3-week itinerary. Alternatively, you can cross the border and enjoy attractions close to Bolivia’s borders.
San Pedro de Atacama in Chile (at the end of the 3-day tour from Uyuni), a hop over to Argentina (via Tupiza) or a short trip to southern Peru (from Copacabana) are all valid options that don’t turn the itinerary upside down. As always, it depends entirely on your interests and the way you travel.
How to get around Bolivia
Buses in Bolivia
Buses in Bolivia are by far the cheapest way to get around. The network of buses and colectivos/micros is, a bit like all over South America, extremely efficient, and departures between the main cities are frequent.
For long distances there are different types of buses: “cama” buses are the most comfortable and have only three rows of seats instead of 4, so the seats are extremely spacious and recline up to 160 degrees. Double-decker buses often have cama seats on the lower deck and semi-cama seats on the upper deck, which, besides being narrower (the classic rows of 4), recline less.
Some companies that offer a great service are El Dorado, Trans Copacabana, Bolivar and Todo Turismo. Obviously, these are also the most expensive. After going around the station asking all the companies the price of the route I was interested in, I always chose the cheapest one, always trying to get at least a semi-cama seat, especially for long routes. I never had any bad experiences, but if you’re looking for modern buses, then go for the companies I just mentioned.
Another extremely popular company that works almost exclusively with tourists is Bolivia Hop. Similar to an Interrail pass, it lets you pay for a pass that allows you to travel whenever you want within a given itinerary, with “pick up” at your hostel/hotel. This company also operates in Peru under the name Peru Hop and lets you buy passes valid for both countries. Obviously the service, although convenient and efficient, is much more expensive than local buses.
To compare the prices of the main Bolivian companies, or simply to take a look at departure times, you can visit the ticketsbolivia website but, as always, to get the best fares I recommend buying your ticket directly at the terminal.
Bus stations often require you to pay a transit fee, 2Bs.
The typical local buses used for short distances, micros/colectivos on the right.
Taxi in Bolivia
As always in South America, try to be careful when you take a taxi. Ask your hotel/hostel what the right price is for a given route and make sure you agree on a price before getting in.
Radio taxis are the most reliable, as they’re run by legal companies; these taxis normally have a phone number to call written on the roof. Apps like Uber and Easy taxi work in some cities.
Domestic flights in Bolivia
Domestic flights aren’t particularly expensive, although buses remain by far the cheapest option. They’re definitely an option to consider for those who are short on time rather than money. The companies that operate domestic flights are Boa and Gol.
Hitchhiking in Bolivia
Hitchhiking in Bolivia isn’t a common practice, at least not the way we think of it. Most people expect to be paid after giving you a ride, so try to be clear from the start if you don’t want to pay, or agree on a price.
Backpacking Bolivia: costs
How much does a trip to Bolivia cost?
A round-trip flight from Europe to Bolivia, if booked in advance, shouldn’t cost more than 700/800 euros, excluding periods like August and New Year’s. In any case, I recommend reading my tips for finding cheap flights. In this specific case, also look at flights not only to La Paz but also to Santa Cruz.
Cost of transport in Bolivia
Getting around by bus is extremely cheap. A bus costs on average between 5 and 10 bolivianos per hour of travel. It’s often better to buy your ticket on the spot, as many companies are willing to lower the price just to fill the bus. This happens above all at the bigger stations, where people shout out the name of the destination (a bit like vendors at a market). Haggling is really easy, as there are often several companies leaving in the same time slot.
For example, my ticket for a cama seat on the lower deck of a La Paz-Sucre bus cost me 100 Bs after haggling for a while; as I was getting on, I met two German guys who had paid 120 Bs for a semi-cama seat on the upper deck of the same bus!
Cost of accommodation in Bolivia
Accommodation is also extremely cheap. A dorm bed normally costs between 30 and 60 Bolivianos, although a lot depends on the city and the time of year.
Cost of activities in Bolivia
The only “expensive” activities in Bolivia are the 3-day tour from Uyuni to San Pedro, which, at about 100€ all-inclusive, is certainly not a bad deal, and a possible tour of the Amazon rainforest in one of the famous parks. All the other day trips can often be done independently and, when that isn’t possible, they’re never expensive.
To wrap up, as you’ve probably already figured out, Bolivia is an extremely cheap country that lends itself perfectly to a budget backpacking trip. If you’re watching your budget, you can easily travel on around 25€ a day. To cut your travel expenses, I recommend taking a look at how to save money while traveling.
The obligatory photo on the most iconic bend of the Camino de la Muerte.
Cost of food in Bolivia
Bolivian cuisine is definitely not among the best in South America, but it has the merit of being really filling and cheap. The menu del día, easy to find at lunchtime in local markets but also in restaurants, costs on average 10-15 Bolivianos and includes a starter/soup, a main course and a drink.
If you prefer to cook, I recommend stocking up on fruit and vegetables at the market, where prices are really low compared to supermarkets.
To reduce exchange and withdrawal fees, see my guide to the best travel cards.
Backpacking Bolivia: safety
Is Bolivia dangerous?
No, or at least no more than in other South American countries. As in any other country in the world, it’s often simply a matter of common sense. Some cities and neighborhoods are definitely to be avoided, especially at night. Having said that, during my stay in Bolivia, I never felt threatened, and although the locals may give the feeling of being unwelcoming, they’re still kind and helpful people in their own way.
I’ll just add that the scam I’d read about, with plainclothes police officers who approach you asking for your documents and credit cards, often surrounded by accomplices backing them up, actually happened to an Austrian guy I met, who ended up getting into a car with these scammers and handing over his card PIN. If it happens to you, ask for an official car to be sent; otherwise, don’t follow them.
These are still rare and easily avoidable occurrences; in any case, I recommend reading my tips for traveling safely.
Are you planning a trip to Bolivia? Check out these posts:
What to pack for a trip to Bolivia
Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!
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