Ecuador Travel Guide
Many people associate Ecuador with the Galapagos Islands, but the truth is that this small country between Colombia and Peru has much more to offer, from the snow-capped peaks of the Andes to the Amazon rainforest, with a few colonial towns along the way. You’re spoiled for choice!
I spent about a month backpacking around Ecuador, and this guide is full of tips for those who, like me, travel on a budget and independently, but I’m sure it will also come in handy for those who travel differently.
Quick menu
- When to visit Ecuador
- Documents and vaccinations to enter Ecuador
- What to do and see in Ecuador
- Suggested itineraries
- How to get around Ecuador
- Backpacking Ecuador: costs
- Backpacking Ecuador: safety
Climbing Cotopaxi Volcano.
When to visit Ecuador
Since Ecuador is crossed by the Equator, its temperatures are stable and vary mainly with altitude. What varies a lot over the course of the year is the rainfall.
On the coast, the dry season, which runs from May-June to November, isn’t particularly pleasant, as it’s often cloudy and temperatures aren’t very high. The rainy season, which runs from December-January to May, is surprisingly the best time to visit the coast. Mornings tend to be sunny, and the short showers are concentrated in the afternoon.
In the Amazon rainforest it rains all year round, but the months from December to May are particularly rainy, though cooler.
The highlands of Ecuador have an almost constant temperature throughout the year. The rainy season runs from December to March.
In the Galapagos, December to May are the warmest months, with weaker winds and therefore warmer water. Although rain is more frequent during this period, these are the best months to visit the archipelago. The months from June to November are drier but also colder, with poor visibility for diving.
If you’re traveling on a budget, it’s good to know that the best time to go coincides with the low season: from February to April (Easter excluded) and from September to November.
Laguna Quilotoa.
Documents and vaccinations to enter Ecuador
Italian passport holders (make sure your passport doesn’t expire within the next six months) receive a free 90-day tourist visa, which starts the moment they enter the country. The rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours.
You can’t do the classic “visa run” (leaving and re-entering the country to renew your visa), as you can only get 90 days every 365. However, it’s possible to extend your tourist visa for another 90 days under certain conditions. If you’re interested in the topic, check out this post, which is comprehensive and up to date.
Ecuador doesn’t require any mandatory vaccinations, but Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B, and yellow fever are recommended, the latter especially if you decide to visit the Amazon rainforest.
For up-to-date information on visas and everything else, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).
What to do and see in Ecuador
Given its small size, Ecuador is a fairly easy country to get around. Most tourist attractions can be reached within a day from Quito, and the next destination is never too far away. Below, you’ll often find prices in US Dollars ($), which is the official currency of Ecuador. The exchange rate is about 1€ = 1.12$. For the current exchange rate, I suggest you look at this page.
N.b. Throughout the guide you’ll often find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the AllTrails app, you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around the problem by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.
Quito
At 2,850 meters above sea level, Quito is the second-highest capital city in the world, so as soon as you arrive, even climbing the stairs might leave you short of breath! Here are some tips for overcoming the so-called “mountain sickness”. In general, try not to overdo it and drink plenty of water.
What to do and see in Quito
The old city
You can easily spend a day visiting Quito’s historic center perhaps by joining a free walking tour. Plaza Grande (Google Maps), where the main government buildings are located, is really beautiful. The Basilica del Voto Nacional (Google Maps) is also definitely worth a visit. In the evening I recommend walking along Calle La Ronda (Google Maps), an alley full of bars and restaurants.
Government Palace in Quito.
Pichincha Volcano
Take the cable car (Google Maps) up to Pichincha volcano, which towers over the city. It’s the second highest cable car in the world, and on a clear day once you get to the top (it’s actually the summit of Cruz Loma at 4100m) you can see half a dozen volcanoes.
You can also continue on foot to the actual summit of Pichincha volcano at 4680m. It’s about a 10 km round trip but given the altitude it could take 4-5 hours (All Trails). If you’re not yet acclimatized, you should have no problem taking the cable car, but I wouldn’t recommend continuing on foot; altitude sickness can lead to serious problems.
If for whatever reason you don’t want to or can’t continue on foot you can still enjoy the view of the city from the station, probably in the company of some llamas! The cable car ticket costs 9$ (official website). Depending on where you’re staying, you can take public transport as described here, while a taxi from the historic center should cost about 5-6 dollars.
Pichincha Volcano.
Ciudad mitad del mundo
26km from Quito you’ll find the town that, as you can imagine, is literally called “The City of the Middle of the World”, and which, geographically speaking, is a town cut in half by the Equator.
The town is definitely touristy and doesn’t have much to offer beyond the monument (Google Maps) marking the Equator (its position is actually off by about 240m), but it’s certainly a good way to spend half a day. The entrance fee to the site is 5$. To get to Mitad del Mundo from Quito, you can take a direct bus from the center, 0.40$.
How to reach Quito?
From the airport you can take a taxi (45 minutes and about 25$), or the cheaper alternative is to take a bus (they run roughly from 6:00 to 22:00) to the Rio Coca bus terminal (Google Maps) for 2$, and then a city bus to the center for 0.25$. If, on the other hand, you want to continue to other destinations in the country, take a bus to the Terminal Carcelen, also known as “Quito Norte” (Google Maps), from where there are connections to all destinations north of Quito such as Otavalo, Mindo and Mitad del Mundo; for destinations south of the capital, take a bus straight to the Terminal Terrestre Quitumbe, also known as “Quito Sur” (Google Maps). By land, there are direct connections to Quito from all the main cities in the country; depending on your starting point, the arrival terminal varies as just described.
Where to sleep in Quito?
The secret garden Quito won the award for best hostel in Ecuador in 2014 for so many good reasons, the rooftop terrace is fantastic. Community Hostel Quito is another great option.
A volleyball game in one of Quito’s parks.
Otavalo
Otavalo is situated approximately 2 hours north of Quito and is renowned for hosting the largest handicraft market in Latin America. While the main market day is Saturday, many vendors set up daily.
For travelers arriving overland from Colombia or heading there, I recommend stopping and spending a night in Otavalo to break up the journey. For those coming from Quito and intending to return without exploring the area around Otavalo, it’s probably more practical to visit the town as a day trip, trying to leave early, because vendors begin to leave around 4 p.m.
What to do and see in Otavalo
In addition to the artisanal market located in Plaza de Ponchos (Google Maps) mentioned earlier, which is undoubtedly the main attraction, you can also explore the nearby Peguche Falls (Google Maps), just a few kilometers away. A taxi ride to the falls costs only a few dollars.
I haven’t been there, but if you want, you could also visit Laguna Cuicocha (Google Maps). It’s a now-inactive volcano whose crater has filled with water, with two volcanic islets in the middle. You can walk a trail of about 12 km (approximately 5 hours) around the lagoon (All Trails).
To reach Laguna Cuicocha, you can take a bus from Otavalo to Cotacachi, 0.35$, and then a taxi to the lagoon, 5-6$.
How to reach Otavalo?
If you’re coming from backpacking Colombia, once you’ve crossed the border and arrived in Tulcan, it’s possible to take a direct bus to Otavalo (4 hours, 3-4$); in all likelihood the bus in question will be headed to Quito and you’ll be dropped off along the Panamericana (about 2 km from downtown Otavalo) and not at the bus terminal.
From Quito, buses leave regularly from “Terminal Carcelen” (Google Maps). About 2 hours and 2.50$.
Where to sleep in Otavalo?
The Traveler Hostel, good hostel just outside the center, breakfast included. La Rosa Otavalo and Santa Fe offer cheap private rooms right in the center.
The Otavalo market.
Mindo
Mindo is located just two hours from Quito and is described by many as a beautiful mountain village nestled in the rainforest and surrounded by waterfalls. If you’re a nature lover, there’s no shortage of outdoor activities here: simple walks in the forest, horseback riding, zip-lining, chocolate tours, etc. etc.
I haven’t personally visited Mindo, so I can’t give an opinion on it, but I’ve been told that it can get really crowded, especially on weekends when locals also escape from nearby Quito in search of some relaxation.
You can find a very detailed guide about Mindo on this page.
How to reach Mindo?
Buses to Mindo depart from Terminal Terrestre Norte (Google Maps) with the Flor de Valle company.
Where to sleep in Mindo?
Cinnamon House and La Casa de Cecilia are the two hostels usually recommended.
The Amazon rainforest
A trip to South America can’t be considered complete without visiting the Amazon rainforest. While it can be reached from Peru, Colombia, Bolivia, and Ecuador, the fact that it can be easily accessed by land in Ecuador makes it a great choice for your budget.
The Cuyabeno Reserve is one of the most accessible parks in the region and also one of the least expensive to reach and visit. Admission to the reserve is free.
The best way to explore the reserve is by staying in one of the many lodges that typically provide food, lodging, and 2-3 activities per day. There are options for all budgets, but expect to pay around 250$ for a 3-night stay. You can book directly on the lodges’ websites or through one of the many agencies in Quito and Banos.
I visited the Amazon rainforest in Peru, so I can’t speak from personal experience. That being said, here are a few options within the Cuyabeno Reserve: Waitalodge, Caiman Eco Lodge, Jamu Lodge, Dolphin Lodge and Green Forest eco Lodge.
If money isn’t an issue, take a look at the nearby Yasuní National Park (Napo Wildlife Center, Sacha Lodge and La Selva Eco Lodge).
Another option for visiting the Amazon rainforest in Ecuador could be the area around the Jatun Sacha Reserve near Banos: Gaia Lodge, Misa Lodge, La Casa del Suizo and Ceibo Lodge.
How to reach the Cuyabeno Reserve?
Night buses depart daily from Quito and Banos to Lago Agrio (7-8 hours), from where transportation to the lodge is then arranged; in any case, you’ll receive instructions once you’ve booked the tour.
Caiman in the Amazon rainforest.
Latacunga
The town itself doesn’t have much to offer but is a great base for exploring nearby Cotopaxi volcano and Quilotoa lagoon.
How to reach Latacunga?
From Quito’s Quitumbe Terminal (Google Maps), buses leave every half hour or so and take about an hour to reach their destination at a cost of $1.50.
Where to sleep in Latacunga?
Hostal Café Tiana is centrally located and good value for money. They allow you to leave your luggage in storage if you decide to do the trek to the Quilotoa Lagoon. Latacunga Hostel is another good option that also offers lots of private rooms.
Cotopaxi
Cotopaxi, reaching an altitude of 5,897 meters, is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. It’s located about 100 km south of Quito and 60 km north of Latacunga. You can either climb the volcano all the way to the summit or, as many do, simply reach the refuge located at 4,864 meters, just below the glacier that covers the summit.
The park is easily visited on a day trip from either Latacunga or Quito. In any case, whatever your starting point, there are two options for reaching the volcano:
- Organized tour. I usually tend to advise against tours, but this is one of the few exceptions. It costs 45-50$ and includes breakfast, lunch, transportation, a guide, and above all the rental of a bike to ride down from the parking lot, where the climb to the refuge begins, to the base of the volcano, which in my opinion is really worth it.
- DIY tour. If you’re in Latacunga, take a bus heading to Quito, and vice versa; once on board, ask to be dropped off at the “entrada de parque nacional cotopaxi”. The cost is about a dollar. At this point, it should be easy to spot 4×4 vehicles ready to offer you a tour for about 20 dollars per person; as always, the price is negotiable. I recommend this option for those who aren’t interested in the bike descent or simply want to spend as little as possible. However, remember to leave early in the morning or arrive in a group, because this kind of solution only works if the vehicle fills up; otherwise, you risk paying more than the tour.
The summit of Cotopaxi Volcano.
Laguna Quilotoa
The Quilotoa Lagoon is a huge lagoon of volcanic origin that can be visited on a day trip or at the end of a 3-day hike (which I highly recommend) through valleys, rivers, small Quechua communities and incredible landscapes.
How to visit Laguna Quilotoa on a day trip?
There are direct buses to the lagoon that leave about every hour from the Latacunga bus terminal (Google Maps), 2.5 hours, $2.50. The bus will take you directly to the crater where you can go down to the lagoon, walk around it or just enjoy the view. The village is full of restaurants and accommodations in case you want to spend the night here. Entrance to the lagoon costs 2$.
How to do the Laguna Quilotoa trek (Quilotoa loop)?
Let’s start by saying that this is a relatively easy trek, provided you’re acclimatized, as the finish is at almost 4000 meters. The trek can be done starting at the lagoon (3914 meters) and ending at Sigchos (2800 meters), so mostly downhill, or vice versa; I recommend starting in Sigchos so you have the lagoon as your reward at the end of the trek.
The route is relatively easy to follow, and many hostels along the way and in Latacunga provide fairly detailed maps with directions. Additionally, the local people are extremely friendly and helpful if you need directions. In any case, to be on the safe side, I recommend downloading the Organic Maps app on your phone.
Note: Bus schedules may not always be up-to-date or correct. I strongly recommend asking your hostel for confirmation to avoid any surprises.
Trekking to Laguna Quilotoa.
Day 1. Latacunga -> Sigchos -> Isinlivi (All Trails)
From the Latacunga bus terminal, the first bus to Sigchos leaves at 6:30, the next at 9:30, then every half hour until 12:00, and finally every hour until 18:00. 2$ and about 2 hours. Check the schedules anyway in case there are any changes.
From Sigchos to Isinlivi it’s about a 3-4 hour walk. Once in Isinlivi, you absolutely have to sleep at the Llullu Llama Mountain Lodge (Official website), a dorm bed costs 21$ per night with dinner and breakfast included (delicious food). There’s also a spa on the property to which you can have access by paying extra. It’s undoubtedly one of the best hostels I’ve ever stayed in and I can’t recommend it enough. Be sure to book in advance because the hostel is very popular. If you haven’t picked up a map yet, the hostel will give you an extremely detailed one.
For the lazy, it’s possible to take a bus directly to Isinlivi from Latacunga without then walking the Sigchos -> Isinlivi section.
From the Latacunga bus terminal:
Daily at 13:00, except Sundays at 11:00, with the “Vivero” company (on Thursdays departing from Saquisili Market).
At 12:15, passing through Sigchos, with the “14 de Octubre” company (on Thursdays departing from Saquisili Market at 12:00).
Day 2. Isinlivi -> Chugchilan (All Trails)
It’s about 4-5 hours of fairly easy hiking, with a few steep bits here and there, through beautiful scenery. Once you get to Chugchilan I recommend staying at Cloud forest hostel (Official website). The place is really nice, although not as nice as Llullu Llama; the food, on the other hand, is nothing special. Another great option is Hostal el Vaquero.
Day 3. Chugchilan -> Laguna Quilotoa (All Trails)
Despite the directions, this is the only section that’s “difficult” to follow. It takes 5-6 hours to reach the lagoon, with the last stretch, climbing back up the crater, entirely uphill. By walking slowly, you should have no problems, and the view is definitely worth it! After walking a section along the ridge of the crater, you’ll arrive at the village of Quilotoa, where you can take a bus back to Latacunga. Ask at the information office about the first bus departure time or alternatively take a colectivo to Zumbahua, where buses back to Latacunga are more frequent.
Note: There are no ATMs along the way, so try to bring enough cash with you. Dinner and breakfast are provided by the hostels (for a fee, they’ll also give you a packed lunch). In the various villages along the route, you can find food, but I still recommend bringing snacks.
Laguna Quilotoa.
Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.
Banos
Banos is a small mountain town in a valley at the foot of Ecuador’s most active volcano, Tungurahua. It’s an extremely touristy destination, even for locals, so don’t expect a quiet little town.
What to do and see in Banos
There are many possible activities to do in Banos: rafting, canyoning, horseback riding, trekking, zip lining, jungle tours, etc. etc. Below I list some budget activities:
La casa del Arbol
You may have seen a picture of a swing suspended in midair with a volcano in the background. Well, this is the place in question. Besides the famous swing, for which you should be prepared to wait in line, there are other rides, mainly for kids (Google Maps).
The park is open daily from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m., and admission costs 1$. You can take a bus at the intersection of Calle Pastaza and Luis A. Martinez (Google Maps), departing at 5:15, 11:00, 14:00 and 16:00 and returning at 8:00 (weekends), 13:00, 16:00 and 18:00. The bus costs 1$. If you feel like it, you could hike up from Banos (All Trails).
La ruta de las cascadas
Rent a bike (7-10 dollars a day depending on the model) and ride La ruta de las cascadas to Puyo (60km). Geotours has some good bikes and also offers all sorts of tours in the area (Google Maps). The road is mostly downhill; even if you take it easy, you should reach Puyo in 5-6 hours.
As you may have guessed, along the way there are numerous waterfalls, many of them visible from the road. The most impressive ones are: Cascada Manto de la Novia (Google Maps), where for 2 dollars you can take a cable car across the gorge; Pailón del Diablo (Google Maps), the most impressive of all, where you have to pay an entrance fee of 3 dollars; and finally Cascada El Rocío Machay (Google Maps), where, following a short trail, you can go down to the base of the waterfall and have a swim; the entrance fee is 1.5 dollars. There’s only one road, so there’s no danger of getting lost, and the waterfalls are well marked.
If you’re feeling tired or simply don’t feel like riding all the way to Puyo, you can stop one of the many buses heading to Baños and load your bike on board. The ticket from Puyo costs about 3-4 dollars.
La ruta de las cascadas.
The thermal baths
There are several hot springs to choose from, the most famous being Termas de la Virgen (Google Maps) located near the center of town but being so famous they’re also the most crowded. For those who want something quieter I suggest visiting the Balneario El Salado (Google Maps) about 2 km outside of town. The cost is 4$, plus a dollar for swim cap rental.
Trekking
There are quite a few trails in and around Baños, such as the Los Sauces Trail (All Trails). If you’re up for a challenge, you could also attempt to summit Chimborazo, which is the highest mountain in Ecuador at 6,263 meters. A guide is mandatory for any mountain above 5,000 meters. For a two-day tour, expect to pay around 300-400 dollars.
How to reach Banos?
From Quito (3.5 hours, 4$), Riobamba (2 hours, 2$), Guayaquil (6.5 hours, $10). From Latacunga take a bus to Ambato; from there, buses leave frequently for Banos (1 hour, 1$).
Where to sleep in Banos?
For those looking for really cheap accommodation, I recommend wandering around the city a bit asking at the many hotels and Hospedaje. My German friend and I found a double room right in the center for 6$ each. A nice, cheap hostel right in the center is Hostal D´Mathias. If you’re looking for something more luxurious a little outside the center check out Mama Tungu hostel.
Guayaquil
Guayaquil is Ecuador’s largest city and among the largest ports in all of Latin America. The city has been described to me by many as uninteresting and most travelers pass through without even visiting. Something to keep in mind is that flights to the Galapagos tend to be cheaper than from Quito.
Since I haven’t been there personally, check out this article in case you want to spend time exploring the city.
Galapagos
Unfortunately, I didn’t have the pleasure of visiting this fantastic archipelago for budget reasons, so I’ll point you straight to this extremely detailed guide. That being said, if I were to visit the islands, I’d personally try to get a last-minute deal on a cruise.
Guide to the Galapagos Islands.
The only thing I’d say, especially to those traveling on a budget, is that the islands are really expensive: everything costs double, if not triple, compared to the rest of Ecuador, and the national park entrance fee alone costs 200$, plus the plane ticket. In any case, read the guide to get a clear idea!
Marine iguanas in the Galapagos.
Montanita
Every self-respecting backpacking destination has its “party town,” and Ecuador is certainly no exception. Here, in addition to the many venues and clubs, you can surf or simply relax on the beach while waiting for the evening to arrive before heading out.
I spent New Year’s Eve in Montanita, and it was really fun. However, if you’re not interested in nightlife, I’d recommend skipping it.
Where to sleep in Montanita?
One good budget option close to the center is Esperanto Bed & Breakfast Surf Hostel. If you’re looking for something nicer, check out Casa del Sol.
How to reach Montanita?
If you’re not already somewhere along the Ecuador coast then you’ll likely have to reach Guayaquil first and take a direct bus that leaves at the following times 05:00, 6:00, 7:00, 9:00, 11:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:30, 18:30 (USD$6), about 3 hours. Alternatively take a bus to Santa Elena or Libertad from where buses to Montanita are more frequent.
New Year’s Eve in Montanita.
Puerto Lopez
The small town itself doesn’t have much to offer but is an excellent base for visiting nearby Isla la Plata and Playa Los Frailes.
What to do and see in Puerto Lopez
Isla la Plata
Isla la Plata, also known as the Poor Man’s Galapagos, is an island located about an hour and a half by boat from Puerto Lopez. Among the many animal species—mostly birds—you can see a colony of blue-footed boobies.
The tour should cost no more than 30-35$ (haggle!) and includes transportation, lunch, snorkeling (where it’s common to see turtles), and a walk along one of the island’s trails accompanied by a guide. All in all, a tour I’d recommend to anyone who can’t afford the Galapagos!
You only need to walk a few minutes along the waterfront before someone stops you in the street to offer you the tour. From May through October, you can also join a whale-watching tour.
Blue-footed boobies on Isla de la Plata.
Los Frailes
The beach is considered the most beautiful in Ecuador and is located about 10 to 15 minutes north of Puerto Lopez by bus (Google Maps). It’s part of Machalilla National Park like Isla la Plata. To get to the beach take a tuk-tuk to the bus terminal (Google Maps) and from there take any bus bound for Manta asking to get off at the entrance to Los Frailes beach, 10-15 minutes $0.50.
Once you arrive at your destination, entry is free but you must register. You can follow a 2.5km trail that passes two more beaches and finally arrive at Los Frailes, or go there directly on foot or by taking a tuk tuk (2-3$).
How to reach Puerto Lopez?
Buses along the coastal road run frequently. From Montanita it takes about an hour and costs 2.5$. To return to Guayaquil there are daily direct buses at 4:00, 4:50, 6:55, 7:50, 9:00, 10:05, 12:00, 13:00, 14:35, 16:00, 17:00, 17:35. Approx. 4 hours ($5.50).
Where to sleep in Puerto Lopez?
Hospedaje Dannita B&B is the cheapest option I found. The hostel is nothing much but it’s clean and the dorm has air conditioning. If you want something nicer, check out Viejamar B&B and Azuluna Ecolodge.
Note: I haven’t visited any other destinations along the coast, but if you’re looking to spend more days at the beach, there are quite a few options like the popular Mompiche. You can find an overview of all the destinations here.
Cuenca
Cuenca is definitely my favorite city in Ecuador. It has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and its streets are filled with colonial buildings, churches, and cathedrals, making it a truly pretty and photogenic place.
View from the terrace of my hostel in Cuenca.
What to do and see in Cuenca
Explore the historic center
As mentioned above, the historic center is really nice. The main square called Parque Calderon (Google Maps) houses the Cuenca Cathedral which recently opened its roof to the public (1$), offering a great view of the city (Google Maps).
Mirador de Turi
Located south of the city (Google Maps), it’s probably the best place to enjoy a bird’s-eye view of Cuenca. I walked there (it’s about 4 km from the center).
El Cajas National Park
About an hour from Cuenca is the beautiful El Cajas National Park, which is free of charge and features more than 250 lagoons.
The visitor center (Google Maps) is a short walk from the road. After registering, you can follow one of the many trails through the park. The trails are well-marked, and if you have camping equipment, it’s possible to camp inside the park. However, it’s easily visited in a day. I recommend this trail, but there are many other options to explore as well.
Rainfall is frequent, and it can get really cold, so come prepared. Bring water and food from Cuenca. To reach El Cajas National Park from Cuenca, simply board any Guayaquil-bound bus and ask the driver to drop you off at the park entrance.
El Cajas National Park.
Where to sleep in Cuenca?
Hostel Check-In is super cheap, well located, breakfast is included and the rooftop terrace is amazing. I honestly don’t understand why the review score is so low; I highly recommend it.
How to reach Cuenca?
Cuenca is located along the Panamericana and is easily accessible by bus from all major cities in Ecuador. If you plan to continue to Peru, there are direct buses that go all the way to Chiclayo, with stops in Mancora and Piura.
Vilcabamba
Once I arrived in Cuenca, I decided to continue to Peru without stopping in Vilcabamba, which, however, seems to be an extremely popular destination among backpackers. The area is known as the Valley of Longevity, and the main activity here, besides relaxing, is trekking. Here you’ll find an interesting article. As for accommodation, Hosteria Izhcayluma seems to be extremely popular for many good reasons. On this page you can find a great guide.
Well, now that we’ve looked at the main tourist destinations, I’d like to make a quick aside about the Andes train (Nariz del Diablo train), which seems to be something many people are interested in. Personally, it had been described to me as a tourist trap, but since I haven’t been on it, I won’t give an opinion. I do recommend, though, that you read this article.
Suggested itineraries
Below I list possible 2, 3 and 4 week itineraries. Obviously there’s no perfect itinerary given a time frame, so take what follows as inspiration and modify the itinerary according to your interests/budget!
2-week itinerary in Ecuador
Quito (3 nights)
Spend the first few days acclimating and recovering from jet lag. Visit the historic center, Mitad del Mundo, and the Otavalo market. Leave the Pichincha volcano for last, so that you’re already physically ready and can prevent altitude sickness.
Cotopaxi (1 night)
To save time, I highly recommend visiting Cotopaxi from Quito and then transferring to Latacunga in the afternoon once the tour is over, without returning to Quito. Just inform the tour guide, and they’ll drop you off along the Panamericana, where it will be easy to board a bus bound for Latacunga. Obviously, take all your luggage with you when you leave Quito in the morning.
Quilotoa loop (3 nights)
Spend two nights doing the Quilotoa loop, and spend the third night in Latacunga. The next morning, head to Banos. Although you could theoretically skip the night in Latacunga and go directly to Banos, you’ll likely be tired after the three days of trekking!
Banos (3 nights)
Spend the first day exploring the town, and in the evening, visit one of the hot springs. On the second day, you could go to the Casa del Arbol or do any activity you like. I’d dedicate the third day to the Ruta de las Cascadas.
The final 3-4 nights
With the last 3-4 nights available you could:
- Join an Amazon rainforest tour (leaving from Banos and returning to Quito).
- Visit Cuenca.
- Visit the coast.
- Cut a few destinations from the above and spend a week in the Galapagos.
3- or 4-week itinerary in Ecuador
For itineraries of 3 weeks or more, my advice is to follow the two-week itinerary and add more destinations from those just listed or from what you find in the “what to do and see in Ecuador” section. There should be no shortage of ideas.
How to get around Ecuador
Buses in Ecuador
Like much of South America, the network of buses and colectivos in Ecuador is extremely efficient and allows you to get almost anywhere without too much difficulty.
You can often board a bus anywhere along the route without needing to be at an official bus stop. Almost all cities have a single bus terminal (terminal terrestre) from which all companies depart (unlike in Peru, for example). As a general rule, buses should cost between 1 and 2 dollars per hour of travel, except along the coast where they tend to be more expensive.
Buses, especially those connecting large cities, leave very frequently. There’s no need to buy tickets in advance, and the price is often negotiable, especially if you’re in a group.
Some companies allow you to buy tickets online at Andestransit. However, I honestly don’t recommend it: ticket prices are lower when bought directly at the terminal, and if you’re one of those people who wants everything planned down to the last detail, or are simply afraid of not getting a seat, then buy your ticket for the next leg at the terminal every time you arrive at a destination.
Unconventional transport on the back of a pickup truck.
Taxis in Ecuador
In Quito taxis use the meter (minimum fare 1$). Always ask for it to be turned on or set a price before you leave. A short route should never cost more than a couple of dollars. Avoid unofficial cabs. Uber works in Quito and Guayaquil. Cabify and Easy Taxi are also popular options.
Domestic flights in Ecuador
Domestic flights aren’t extremely expensive and are definitely an option for those who don’t have much time, although buses remain far cheaper. A one-way domestic flight can cost between 40 and 100 dollars. Companies that operate domestic flights are Avianca and Latam.
Hitchhiking in Ecuador
To conclude, hitchhiking is a relatively common practice, especially in rural areas; you may be asked for a small “expense reimbursement”.
Backpacking Ecuador: costs
So, how much does a trip to Ecuador cost?
Flights to Quito or Guayaquil from Europe aren’t exactly cheap, but if booked a few months in advance they shouldn’t cost more than 700/800€, except for periods like August and New Year’s. In any case, I recommend reading my guide on how to find cheap flights.
Cost of transport in Ecuador
Getting around Ecuador is fairly inexpensive as long as you use public transportation. For many destinations, you’ll find the cost of the bus tickets (prices are approximate and in some cases may be out of date).
Cost of accommodation in Ecuador
A bed in a good hostel costs on average between 6 and 10 dollars; a lot depends on the city and the time of year.
Cheap hotels start at 15$, while for something more luxurious, expect to pay at least 25$.
For those looking to travel on a budget but not willing to sleep in dorms, I still recommend staying in hostels and getting a private room. Airbnb is another option to consider.
Cost of food in Ecuador
A menú del día or almuerzo, literally “menu of the day”, easy to find at lunchtime, costs on average between 2 and 3 dollars, drink included; in the evening, street food is a great cheap option.
For a meal in a mid-to-upper-range restaurant, prices start at about 15 dollars.
Plenty of hostels provide a kitchen, and many places include breakfast.
A local beer in a bar costs about a dollar.
Fresh juices for 1$.
Cost of activities in Ecuador
Many of the tours on offer can be done independently with proper planning and use of public transportation. The two big exceptions are the Galapagos and the Amazon rainforest, where participation in a tour is almost mandatory.
In any case, a day tour, whether it involves trekking, rafting, or any other activity, should never cost more than 50 dollars.
In conclusion, I think that if you travel cheaply, sleep in hostels and use public transport, a budget of 30-35€ a day should be more than enough.
To reduce exchange and withdrawal fees, see my guide to the best travel cards.
Backpacking Ecuador: safety
Is it dangerous to travel to Ecuador?
As in other parts of the world, tourists should above all use common sense. Certain neighborhoods in large cities should definitely be avoided, especially at night, as should the area near the Colombian border, which for some reason isn’t considered safe.
In any case, the biggest danger is getting pickpocketed. Be particularly careful on buses, and if you take night buses, keep your valuables very close to you. Violence toward tourists is rare, unless you resist. Keep an eye on your belongings and you shouldn’t have any problems. In this article you’ll find lots of tips on how to travel safely.
Are you planning a trip to Ecuador? Check out these posts:
Which travel backpack to choose
Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!
Since I no longer run ads, if you found this article helpful, please consider purchasing your travel insurance through one of the links on this site. Doing so supports my work at no additional cost to you. For EU and UK residents, I recommend True Traveller (if you add the “Extreme Pack”, it covers trekking above 4,600 m). For everyone else, I recommend HeyMondo, which offers a 5% discount. Thank you for your support!
For donations/pizzas and virtual beers 🙂
Did you like the post? Pin it!
