Indonesia Travel Guide

Indonesia, with its diverse landscapes—from central mountains and lush rice terraces to stunning beaches—not to mention its rich culture, countless temples and mosques, and world-class surfing and diving, is undoubtedly a spectacular destination.

Over the years, I’ve spent around five months backpacking through the heart of the country. In this guide, you’ll find plenty of useful information and tips to help you plan your trip to Indonesia.

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Nepal Van Java.

When to Visit Indonesia

The Indonesian archipelago has a tropical climate with two main seasons: the rainy season, which runs from November to March—with January and February typically being the wettest—and the dry season, which runs from April to October.

If possible, try to avoid July and August, which fall in the peak tourist season. Popular spots like Bali can get absolutely packed, but if you head to less-visited islands like Sumba, you’ll likely encounter very few tourists—even in the middle of August.

Overall, the best time to visit Indonesia is April to June and September to October, when the weather is good, crowds are smaller, and prices are lower than in peak season. This also makes Indonesia a great destination during the rainy season in the rest of Southeast Asia.

Komodo National Park.

Entry Requirements and Vaccinations for Indonesia

Most passports can get a 30-day tourist visa on arrival at the airport. This visa costs IDR 500,000 and must be paid in cash.

That said, I recommend applying for your visa online before your trip—it’ll save you time at the airport. This is especially useful if you plan to extend your stay by another 30 days. If you get the visa online, the renewal process can also be done online. But if you get the visa on arrival, you’ll have to visit an immigration office or go through an agent.

You can apply on the official Indonesian immigration website. The visa you want is called the “B1” visa and costs IDR 500,000, just like the one at the airport. As mentioned, it can be extended once for another 30 days (for a total stay of 60 days) by paying an additional IDR 500,000.

Important: When applying, you must upload proof of your departure from Indonesia within the first 30 days, even if you plan to extend your visa later. If your return or onward flight is outside this window, your application might be rejected. I’ve included some tips on how to handle this here.

Inerie volcano.

If you’re planning to stay longer than 60 days, you could do a typical “visa run” (leaving the country and re-entering), but I recommend applying for the “C1” visa instead. It costs IDR 1,500,000 and can be extended twice, allowing a total stay of up to 180 days. For this visa, you’ll need to upload both a return ticket within 180 days and a bank statement showing at least $2,000 in your name.

Again, I recommend checking the official website—for once, it’s actually well done and the info is clear.

The only mandatory vaccine is yellow fever, and only if you’re coming from a country where the disease is present. That said, I always recommend getting vaccinated for Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B when traveling.

Dancing trees of Sumba.

What to Do and See in Indonesia

Throughout this guide, prices are given in the local currency, the Indonesian rupiah (often abbreviated as IDR). At the time of writing, the exchange rate is approximately €1 = IDR 17,000. For the most up-to-date rate, I recommend checking this page.

Given Indonesia’s vast and varied geography, I’ve organized this section by island before diving into individual destinations. The map below follows the same logic—for better or worse.

N.b. Several times throughout the guide you will find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the Alltrails app you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.

Sunrise on the summit of Kelimutu in good company.

SUMATRA

Despite being Indonesia’s largest island, Sumatra sees only a fraction of the tourism that more popular destinations like Bali, Java, and Lombok receive. That said, there’s still a good range of accommodation—especially in the central and northern regions.

Banda Aceh

Banda Aceh, the capital of Indonesia’s Aceh province, sits at the northwestern tip of Sumatra. The city is known for its strong Islamic heritage and is the only region in Indonesia where Sharia law is formally enforced. Sadly, Banda Aceh is also remembered as one of the areas hardest hit by the devastating 2004 tsunami.

What to Do and See in Banda Aceh

For most travelers, Banda Aceh is mainly a transit point on the way to nearby Pulau Weh—an island just off the coast, locally known as Sabang. That said, if you arrive too late to catch the ferry, want to break up the journey, or simply feel like exploring a lesser-visited Indonesian city, there’s enough to fill a day or two.

Visit a couple of tsunami memorials, such as the Tsunami Museum (Google Maps) and the PLTD Apung (Google Maps) —a massive floating power barge carried inland by the wave, now turned into a museum. In the city center, I also recommend visiting the Baiturrahman Grand Mosque (Google Maps). For IDR 15,000, you can climb the minaret for a panoramic view over the city.

If you rent a scooter, head to Pantai Lampuuk (Google Maps)—a peaceful beach with some surf. Further south is the Suhom Waterfall (Wisata Air Terjun Suhom) (Google Maps). Just a heads-up: according to hostel staff, the site isn’t well maintained and there’s quite a bit of trash.

One of the monuments dedicated to the tsunami.

Where to Stay in Banda Aceh?

I spent a night at Lala Hostel—nothing fancy, but clean, functional, and run by very friendly staff. Recommended for budget travelers.

How to Reach Banda Aceh?

The only viable land connection is by bus from Medan, though the journey takes over 12 hours. When I visited, only overnight buses were available (Google Maps). Unless you’re on a very tight budget, I recommend flying. With advance booking, flights from Medan are extremely cheap, and there are also direct connections to Kuala Lumpur with AirAsia. So if you’re planning a Southeast Asia itinerary, Banda Aceh works well as either a first or last stop in Indonesia.

From the airport to the city center, taxis charge around IDR 100,000. But if you’re traveling light, you can get a scooter ride for IDR 50,000 (Google Maps).

Japanese bunker on Pulau Weh.

Pulau Weh

Pulau Weh, also known as Sabang, is a small volcanic island located just north of Banda Aceh. The surrounding coral reef offers excellent diving opportunities, while the island itself boasts beautiful, uncrowded beaches—quite a contrast to the busier tourist spots elsewhere in Indonesia.

What to Do and See in Pulau Weh

Sharia law is in effect on the island. I had read that bikinis were prohibited and that swimming wasn’t allowed at certain times on Fridays, but in my experience, tourists are generally given some leeway. In practice, these rules are mostly enforced for locals, and visitors are rarely affected.

Snorkeling and Diving

Pantai Iboih (Google Maps) and its surroundings are the best areas for snorkeling and home to most of the island’s dive centers (the other option is Gapang Beach, which isn’t far). I had a minor ear issue, so I didn’t dive, but a couple of friends confirmed that the reef is healthy and the diving is excellent. You can join a snorkeling boat tour here, or just rent a mask and snorkel and go DIY like I did. Rental for the whole day costs around IDR 20,000.

If you go the DIY route, I recommend walking to a beach accessible via a coastal trail—it’s marked on Organic Maps and easy to follow. The beach is virtually deserted; when I arrived, there was no one else around, and during my stay only one boat showed up with a couple of tourists who snorkeled briefly before moving on to their next stop.

If you’re not up for walking, Pantai Teupin Serkui (Google Maps) is right at the start of the coastal path. It’s quiet, shaded, and has a couple of restaurants with reasonably priced food. From this beach, you can snorkel along the coast all the way to Pantai Yulia (Google Maps). I don’t recommend crossing the bay to the island opposite the beach—there’s a lot of boat traffic and it can be dangerous.

Small “deserted” bay mentioned above.

Island Tours

If you rent a scooter, you can tour the entire island in a single day. The roads are in great condition and there’s very little traffic. If you’re based in Sabang, you can start with the Japanese Bunker in Anoi Itam (Google Maps). There’s a small entry fee of IDR 3,000, plus another IDR 3,000 for parking. As the name suggests, it’s a World War II bunker built by the Japanese. Honestly, there’s not much to see, but at that price it’s worth a quick stop.

Next, I recommend visiting Jaboi Volcano (Google Maps). The entry fee for foreigners is IDR 20,000. A guide is available, but not really necessary. There are several trails; follow the signs to Kawah 4, which leads to a small crater (also marked on Organic Maps).

Jaboi Volcano.

It’s a short and pleasant hike, especially if you’ve never seen a volcanic landscape. I did it in flip-flops—which I wouldn’t really recommend. A proper pair of shoes is a better idea. Also, if it’s a particularly hot day, between the heat rising from the ground and the sun overhead, you’ll be roasting—so try to avoid hiking during the hottest part of the day. There are also some hot springs nearby (Google Maps), but I was already overheating and gave them a miss. That said, they might be a nice spot in the evening or on a rainy day.

Next stop: Pasir Putih Beach (Google Maps), also known as “White Sand Beach.” It’s a lovely beach and was completely empty even on a Sunday. Unfortunately, since there are no resorts maintaining it, it’s not the cleanest.

A bit farther north along the coast is Wisata Gua Sarang (Google Maps), a popular spot for local tourists. These are natural caves with several “photo spots” that locals love. I didn’t go inside, but I’ll let you be the judge. The same goes for the Kilometer Nol Monument (Google Maps), the northernmost point in Indonesia. It didn’t really appeal to me, but see what you think! Finally, you might want to check out Pria Laot Waterfall (Google Maps). I visited on a weekend when all the local kids were off school, so it was packed—and, as is often the case in Indonesia, cleanliness left something to be desired. Still, if you’re looking to cool off and you avoid weekends, it’s not a bad spot.

White Sand Beach.

Where to Stay in Pulau Weh?

I stayed at Pondok Simpang Tiga, a very budget-friendly place with air conditioning. The staff were super friendly—they got me a brand-new scooter for IDR 100,000 per day, and on the day I left, they even gave me a free lift to the port. That said, if you’re happy to spend a little more, there are definitely nicer options.

During my stay, I made friends with the staff at Casa Nemo Beach Resort & Spa, where I ended up spending quite a few evenings. It’s a lovely property, and although it’s not listed online, they actually offer a well-priced dorm room. The resort sits right on the beach and has a great atmosphere.

How to Get to Pulau Weh?

From the port of Banda Aceh (Google Maps), there are at least two or three daily departures, either by regular ferry (around 2 hours, IDR 35,000) or speed boat (about 30 minutes, IDR 100,000). The schedule seems to change frequently, so I recommend checking the Discover Sabang Instagram page—they post the daily schedule in their stories.

To reach the port from Banda Aceh city, you can simply use Grab or Gojek. Just be aware that you’ll be dropped off outside the port gates. Likewise, on your return, you’ll need to exit the port to order a ride—otherwise you’ll need to take a traditional taxi. It’s less than a five-minute walk, though, so not a big deal unless you’re carrying a ton of luggage.

Once I arrived at the island’s port, I found a scooter ride to my guesthouse for IDR 50,000. Taxis were asking about double, though of course it depends on where you’re staying. In hindsight, I’d recommend renting a scooter directly at the port if you’re traveling light. It’s the most convenient option, especially since there’s no public transportation on the island.

Pria Laot Waterfall.

Medan

Note: Medan, Bukit Lawang, Berastagi, and Lake Toba form a well-established travel circuit, to the point that there’s a real network of shared taxis shuttling between these destinations. Some travelers—especially families—opt to hire a private driver for about ten days. If you’re interested, check out Facebook groups like Backpacking Sumatra (Indonesia) or Indonesia Backpackers, where you can usually find WhatsApp numbers without much effort. Alternatively, many accommodations have reliable contacts, and you can ask directly at your guesthouse or hotel. Another option is to reach out to Bagus Holidays Taxi via WhatsApp (their number is listed in the link). From what I’ve heard, they generally charge a daily flat rate plus fuel. Finally, you could consider renting a scooter in Medan, as a couple of my friends did. AXE RENTAL MOTOR MEDAN is often recommended, and they even offer airport delivery if you’d like to start your trip on two wheels.

Sumatra’s capital and Indonesia’s third-largest city doesn’t have much to offer in terms of leisure. Crowded and chaotic, most travelers just pass through—arriving and departing on the same day.

Kantor Pos Medan.

What to Do and See in Medan

If you do decide to spend a day in town, there are a few colonial-era buildings in the city center, such as Old City Hall (Google Maps) and Kantor Pos Medan (Google Maps). I passed by them after leaving the train station—nothing too special.

One place I do think is worth visiting is the Tjong A Fie Mansion (Google Maps), which is essentially a copy of the Blue Mansion in George Town, Malaysia. I had already visited the one in Malaysia a couple of weeks earlier, so I skipped this one—but if you haven’t seen the original, it might be quite interesting. Tjong A Fie, the tycoon often dubbed “the Rockefeller of the East,” spent much of his life in Medan and had this replica of his Penang residence built. Guided tours cost IDR 35,000.

I also didn’t visit the Masjid Raya Medan (Google Maps), but it’s often recommended. Designed by a Dutch architect, the mosque mixes Moroccan, Middle Eastern, Malay, and European architectural styles and looks genuinely impressive.

A short walk away is Istana Maimun (Maimoon Palace) (Google Maps). However, reviews are mixed—apparently, only two rooms are open to the public, and they’ve mostly been filled with souvenirs.

Finally, if you have time, consider visiting the Maha Vihara Maitreya (Google Maps) just outside the city. It’s one of the largest Buddhist temples in Indonesia.

Old City Hall.

Where to Sleep in Medan?

If you decide to spend the night in the city, RedDoorz Hostel @ Capsule Inn Medan is a solid choice. I stayed there for a night after arriving from Banda Aceh. Clean, comfortable, and in a decent location not too far from both the city center and the main bus station.

On the other hand, if you have an early morning flight—or just prefer to avoid heading into the city—My Studio Hotels Kualanamu Airport Medan is a great option. It’s strategically located near the airport and offers a shuttle service.

How to Reach Medan?

As mentioned earlier, there are overnight buses from Banda Aceh to Medan, but if you book ahead, a flight costs only slightly more and saves a lot of time.

From the airport, there’s a very convenient express train that connects directly to Medan’s central station (Google Maps) for IDR 40,000. Departures are fairly frequent (you can check the schedule directly on Google Maps). Alternatively, DAMRI buses connect the airport to various parts of the city.

Orangutan in Bukit Lawang.

Bukit Lawang

Bukit Lawang is one of the few places in the world where you can see orangutans in the wild with near certainty. It all started with a rehabilitation and reintroduction program that officially ended in 2001. In practice, though, locals have never stopped caring for the orangutans—many of whom are used to humans and know they can easily find food around the tourist camps.

I’ve seen them with my own eyes, tangoing with each other for leftovers from guests’ meals. Like it or not, the local economy depends entirely on their presence. The incentives are clear. So while these orangutans are “free” and technically live in the wild, they’re more accurately described as semi-wild. Right? Wrong? Indifferent? That’s up to you.

Bat Cave.

What to Do and See in Bukit Lawang

The top activity here is trekking in Gunung Leuser National Park to spot orangutans. That said, you might be lucky enough to see other wildlife as well. In my case, besides a dozen orangutans, I saw plenty of Thomas’s leaf monkeys, macaques, and even two gibbons.

There are trekking options for all tastes (you can find sample itineraries online), ranging from day trips—where you return to your guesthouse at night—to multi-day treks, where you camp in the jungle. The camps are basic but totally fine if you’ve got a minimum level of adaptability.

I chose the three-day, two-night tour, which ends with rafting back to the village. Most agencies officially charge around €170 per person, but you can negotiate a lower price. I went with two guys I met at Jhony’s Backpacker, and we ended up paying about €130 each after some on-the-spot haggling.

They call it “trekking,” but to be honest, there’s not that much walking. Still, I had a great time overall.

If you’re after something more off the beaten track, consider arranging a custom itinerary. Many guides are happy to take you deeper into the forest, even for multi-week treks, increasing your chances of spotting more elusive animals—like the Sumatran tiger. I’ve heard it’s also possible to organize a crossing to Ketambe if you’re up for an adventure.

Orangutan mother and baby eating leftovers.

Other Things to Do

There’s not a ton else to do in Bukit Lawang itself:

  • Bat Cave (Google Maps) – I went, but honestly, it wasn’t that impressive, and the IDR 25,000 entrance fee didn’t feel worth it.
  • Local market (Google Maps) – Worth a quick stop if you’re curious about daily village life.
  • River swimming – Join the locals near the pedestrian bridge (Google Maps) that crosses the village. Great way to cool off!

Note: I recommend withdrawing cash in Medan before heading to Bukit Lawang, as ATMs are unreliable or nonexistent here.

Where to Sleep in Bukit Lawang?

I stayed at Jhony’s Backpacker before and after my trek. It’s super cheap and very basic, but it did the job. I also arranged my jungle tour with Jhony himself—he’s a bit of a character, but he’s honest and kind.

How to Reach Bukit Lawang?

From Medan, there are frequent daytime minibuses—look for the orange minivans parked here (Google Maps), right in front of the bakery. They’re easy to spot. Expect to pay IDR 50,000 as a foreigner.

Avoid going to the Pinang Baris Terminal (Google Maps) as some blogs or guides suggest. The local “mafia” there is known for overcharging tourists.

The last stop is the Bukit Lawang bus terminal (Google Maps).

Alternatively, you can arrange a shared taxi like the ones mentioned in the Medan section.

Thomas’s leaf monkey.

Tangkahan and Ketambe

Tangkahan and Ketambe are two lesser-known alternatives to Bukit Lawang, ideal for travelers looking to avoid the “crowds” and possibly enjoy a more ethical and authentic experience. I haven’t visited either myself, so take the following with a grain of salt.

Ketambe

Ketambe is often considered the sister village of Bukit Lawang. It too was part of an orangutan reintroduction program backed by the Indonesian government, and a range of accommodations was developed around that time. Today, it serves as another official access point to Gunung Leuser National Park.

However, unlike Bukit Lawang, Ketambe is much harder to reach. That lack of accessibility has helped it remain more off the radar and, according to many, has preserved its authentic, low-key atmosphere. If you’re looking for quieter treks and fewer tourists, this might be the better choice.

If you’re interested, you can find detailed information on how to reach Ketambe by public transport on this page.

Tangkahan

Tangkahan is just over an hour’s drive from Bukit Lawang, thanks to recent road improvements. Besides a chance to spot semi-wild orangutans, Tangkahan is also home to a conservation project focused on elephants.

Unfortunately, it used to be possible to ride elephants here—something that has raised concerns about animal welfare. While the situation seems to have improved recently, some reviews remain critical, so it’s worth doing your own research if you’re planning a visit.

That said, you don’t have to interact with the elephants at all. You can simply arrange jungle treks, visit waterfalls, or just enjoy the quieter, less touristy vibe compared to Bukit Lawang.

You can find more information on this page.

Berastagi

Located in the heart of the Karo Highlands and surrounded by active volcanoes, Berastagi offers picturesque views, pleasant weather year-round, and makes for a perfect stopover on the way to Lake Toba.

If you’re traveling with a driver or by scooter, consider making a detour to Air Terjun Teroh-Teroh Petar waterfall (Google Maps) before reaching Berastagi—it’s a worthwhile nature stop.

What to Do and See in Berastagi

There’s not much to see in downtown Berastagi itself, but it’s worth visiting the small Karo Batak cultural museum (Google Maps), which offers a basic overview of the region’s indigenous culture. Admission is just IDR 8,000. While you’re nearby, take a walk through the local market (Google Maps) for a glimpse into daily life.

Just outside town, you’ll find Taman Alam Lumbini (Google Maps), a Buddhist temple that came recommended by the guesthouse staff—though I didn’t visit it myself.

Karo Batak cultural museum.

Mount Sibayak

Mount Sibayak is an easy and scenic hike that can be done as a half-day trip from Berastagi (All Trails). The entrance fee for foreigners is IDR 20,000, paid at the beginning of the main trail (Google Maps).

I hiked it on a Sunday morning and found it packed with people camping at the top—it’s a very popular weekend outing for locals from Medan.

You don’t need a guide to reach the crater, especially if you’re just doing the standard route. If you’re planning a sunrise hike, you might need to arrange early transportation depending on your guesthouse location (during the day, public minibuses run from the center). I simply walked from where I was staying.

Once at the crater, rather than returning the same way, consider continuing downhill toward the hot springs village (All Trails). Be warned: the trail on this section is less maintained, not always well-marked, and some locals consider it dangerous without a guide. In my opinion, if you’ve got a bit of adventurous spirit, it’s totally doable—but yes, the official trail is in much better condition.

Mount Sibayak with Mount Sinabung in the background.

I ended up at Mitra Sibayak Hot Spring (Google Maps), which I found randomly and really enjoyed. Entry was just IDR 15,000, and the hot soak after the hike was well worth it. From there, I walked back to town, but you can also catch a local minibus back to Berastagi for IDR 7,000 (Google Maps).

Hot springs village.

Mount Sinabung

Gunung Sinabung has been highly active in recent years and is currently closed to the public—climbing to the crater is prohibited. If things change in the future, it would likely be a great hike. Ask locally for the most up-to-date information. Trail details can be found here (All Trails).

Where to Sleep in Berastagi?

I stayed at Sibayak Multinational Rest House and can definitely recommend it. While the room had seen better days, the beautiful outdoor garden, the kindness of the host family, and great food at honest prices made it a memorable stay.

As mentioned earlier, if you don’t mind walking a bit more, you can hike to the volcano directly from the guesthouse, which is a big plus.

How to Get to Berastagi?

From Bukit Lawang, I took a shared tourist minivan (basically a shared taxi) for IDR 200,000. To my knowledge, public transportation isn’t a viable option, at least not without first returning to Medan, where you’ll find direct buses to Berastagi.

Lake Toba.

Lake Toba

Lake Toba is the largest volcanic lake in the world, measuring about 100 kilometers in length and 30 kilometers in width. The main tourist area is Tuk-Tuk village located on Samosir Island in the middle of the lake, the epicenter of Batak culture. The shores of Lake Toba offer a peaceful retreat for travelers seeking a few days of relaxation.

What to do and see at Lake Toba

As for Berastagi, before you even get to Lake Toba, if you have a driver or travel by scooter, you can consider stopping at Air Terjun Sipiso Piso Waterfall (Google Maps), which at 120 meters high is among the highest waterfalls in the country, and Bukit Gajah Bobok (Google Maps) where there is a nice viewpoint.

In Tuk-Tuk, moving on foot without necessarily renting a scooter, you could visit Huta Siallagan (Google Maps) where you can visit traditional Batak houses, entrance costs IDR 10 000. On the way you will also find Museum Sipalakka (Google Maps), entrance costs IDR 10 000 and you can see many stone works.

Batak Museum.

However, on the other side of Tuk-Tuk is Tomok Market (Google Maps) where they sell mostly souvenirs, Desa Wisata Tomok Parsaoran (Google Maps) where you can see traditional Batak houses (as I was passing by they were playing traditional music), Old Tomb Of King Sidabutar (Google Maps) where there are the tombs of several noble Batak families, and finally the Batak Museum (Google Maps). In my opinion none of this is outstanding, especially without any context. Perhaps by paying for a guide the visit can potentially be more interesting.

If you decide to rent a scooter or perhaps join an organized tour, you can venture further afield and drop by the Parhallow viewpoint and coffee shop (Google Maps), Pengrajin Ulos Samosir (Google Maps) which is another traditional village, the Bukit Holbung Samosir viewpoint (Google Maps)and the Efrata Waterfall (Google Maps). I personally have not been to any of these places as I preferred to laze by the lake and visit only the points of interest around Tuk-Tuk.

Tombs of noble Batak families.

Where to sleep in Lake Toba?

I slept at Laster Jony’s, nice rooms by the lake in a very quiet area. Friendly staff and great restaurant at fair prices. Absolutely must try if in season Avocado shake! Recommended.

How to reach Lake Toba?

If you arrive by shared taxi (I paid IDR 200 000 from Berastagi), you will be dropped off at Parapat pier (Google Maps) where there are frequent connections during the day to Tuk-Tuk for IDR 25 000. Once on the boat you will be asked where you are staying and based on that you will be told when to get off. In fact, the boat makes multiple stops and you will be dropped off at the pier closest to your accommodation. If you arrive by scooter you can take the bridge on the other side of the island or the local ferry (Google Maps).

To and from Medan the shared taxi costs IDR 150 000, some guesthouses charge more, you can safely get the ferry only booked and then pay the transfer directly to Bagus Taxi (Google Maps). The daily transfer leaves around 10:00 am so you have to take the first boat from Tuk-Tuk to Parapat. I am sure there are also local buses that cover the route but I have no information about that. You can also get booked on the bus that covers the Medan – Bukittinggi/Padang route and stops in Parapat but it’s like 16 hours of travel (or more)! If you plan to continue your trip towards Padang, I recommend returning to Medan and then flying to Padang, unless you are on a tight budget.

Lake Toba.

Padang

Padang is the capital of West Sumatra province and the main gateway for anyone wanting to reach the Mentawai Islands. The city doesn’t offer much for the day-tripper, but you can still keep yourself occupied for half a day before or after visiting the islands.

What to do and see in Padang

The area along the river (Google Maps) is not too bad — there’s a small Buddhist temple, Kelenteng See Hin Kiong (Google Maps), and if you feel like walking, you can cross the river and head up to Siti Nurbaya Hills (Google Maps).

I was told that Pantai Air Manis (Google Maps) offers good surf and could be a nice beach to spend a few hours at, but unfortunately, being so close to the city, it seems to have serious cleanliness issues.

If you get the chance, I also recommend stopping by the Masjid Raya Syekh Ahmad Khatib Al-Minangkabawi Sumatera Barat Mosque (Google Maps). In the evening, when it’s lit up, it looks pretty nice! If you’re staying far away, consider whether it’s worth the trip to reach it.

Masjid Raya Syekh Ahmad Khatib Al-Minangkabawi Sumatera Barat Mosque.

Where to sleep in Padang?

Kokos Hostel Padang City is the top hostel in town. Great facilities, extremely friendly staff, and an excellent location — just a short walk from the harbor where the fast boats to the Mentawai Islands depart. Perhaps a bit pricey for Indonesia, but definitely a solid choice. I also spent a night at Mandeh Guesthouse Padang, a very local guesthouse on the outskirts of town. Lovely and hospitable family. Very good value for money.

How to reach Padang?

By plane, there are several direct flights daily to both Medan in the north and Jakarta in the south. If booked in advance, they’re really cheap. From the airport, there are bus connections to downtown “Kota Padang” for IDR 30 000 — I’m not sure exactly where they drop you off as I personally shared a Grab. There’s also a train that runs every couple of hours and costs just IDR 10 000 — schedules are available on Google Maps. In my opinion, considering how affordable flights are, the only sensible overland connections are to Bukittinggi and the Harau Valley, which I’ll cover later. If you want, there are direct buses to both Medan in the north and Jakarta in the south, but in both cases it’s more than 20 hours on the bus!

Head of the household where we stayed in Mentawai.

Mentawai Islands

The Mentawai Islands off the west coast of Sumatra are especially famous among surfers; in fact, these islands offer some of the best breaks in the world. There’s more than just waves here, however: lush rainforests, pristine beaches, and — above all — the unique culture of the indigenous Mentawai people make these islands fascinating for any traveler.

What to see and do in the Mentawai Islands

I’m not a surfer, so I don’t have much information on that front. I just know that surfing here isn’t cheap: the permit to enter the water with a surfboard alone costs IDR 2 000 000 (valid for 15 days), and in general it seems you have to rely on surf camps or resorts — not exactly hostel prices. I recommend doing some research.

Shamanic ritual.

Mentawai tribe tour

Instead, I joined a “Mentawai Tribe Tour” on the island of Siberut (Google Maps). The Mentawai are semi-nomadic hunter-gatherers, many of whom still live very traditional lives. These tours usually last three nights and four days, which lines up with the fast boat schedule (connections to Padang are not daily).

I didn’t do much research beforehand — at the time, I was traveling with other people and, for once, I just went with the group. I paid IDR 3.5 million for the four-day, three-night tour (including round-trip tickets from Padang). The tour was organized by a certain Agus who didn’t strike me as a very genuine person. On the other hand, Gejeng (our guide) was wonderful. He’s currently trying to create his own network of clients without having to go through Agus. You can contact him directly on Instagram.

As for the tour itself, usually you spend all three nights in the jungle, hosted by local families, and during the day you do things like fishing, trekking in the forest, collecting grubs, preparing sago (a local plant used to make flour), and more. We ended up spending only one night in the jungle because there was an important ceremony in the village that we wanted to attend. Dancing, singing, animal sacrifices, and even some exorcism — a truly unique experience! In short, the tours are extremely customizable.

Preparation of sago.

Other islands in the surrounding area

You can also combine a visit to Siberut Island with nearby Sipura (Google Maps). The two islands are connected by boat at least a couple of times a week, so there’s no need to return to Padang. In the northern part of the island is the harbor (Google Maps) and the main settlement, which has several guesthouses. I didn’t go, but apparently the beaches are pristine and mass tourism hasn’t arrived yet. Find an article here.

Lastly, for anyone wanting to get further off the beaten path, the Hinako archipelago north of the Mentawai is another interesting option. Nias Island (Google Maps) has an airport, which makes it more accessible. Find an article here. From there, you can reach even more remote islands like Asu. Find an article here.

How to reach the Mentawai Islands?

The “Mentawai Fast Ferry” departs from this point in Padang (Google Maps), and after a short stop further north, it arrives at the village where the tours begin (find location here: Google Maps). The trip takes about 3–6 hours depending on sea conditions. If you prefer, there’s also a slow ferry, but it takes about 12 hours. This page has an article that seems to be updated frequently, but I strongly recommend confirming everything once you’re on site.

The river you went up during the tour.

Harau Valley

Often dubbed Indonesia’s “Yosemite,” the Harau Valley is a stunning mix of lush rice paddies, towering vertical cliffs, and cascading waterfalls — a perfect window into rural Indonesia and a landscape unlike any other.

Harau Valley.

What to see and do in the Harau Valley

I highly recommend renting a scooter to explore the various waterfalls scattered throughout the valley while enjoying the gorgeous surroundings. If it hasn’t rained recently, you can start with the Sarasah Tanggo waterfall (Google Maps). You can easily ride your scooter down the dirt road; otherwise, I suggest parking near the dam (Google Maps) and walking the rest of the way. Next, continue on to Sarasah Donat waterfall (Google Maps) and Sarasah Murai 7 Tingkat waterfall (Google Maps). Nearby, there’s supposed to be a “famous” viewpoint offering a beautiful panorama of the valley. The trail is marked on Organic Maps, but it’s apparently very steep. The people I was traveling with weren’t interested, so I skipped it myself.

To wrap up your waterfall tour, visit Sarasah Bunta (Google Maps), where you can go for a swim. Not far from here is a great viewpoint (Google Maps) that’s perfect for a late afternoon visit to end the day. Alternatively, if you don’t want to explore on your own, all guesthouses can arrange guided tours.

Sarasah Murai 7 Tingkat.

If you have more time and feel like venturing further, you can also ride out of the valley. We rode to a bridge that’s well-known among locals (Google Maps), though honestly, I didn’t find it particularly worthwhile. Another frequently suggested destination is Kapalo Banda Taram Lake (Google Maps).

Kelok 9 Bridge.

Where to sleep in the Harau Valley?

Despite what you might find when searching online, there are plenty of guesthouses in the valley. I stayed at Abdi Homestay (Google Maps), sharing a bungalow with two other travelers, and I definitely recommend it. It’s a lovely spot surrounded by greenery, the owner is super friendly and speaks excellent English, scooter rental is affordable, and dinner was delicious. You can book directly via WhatsApp — the number is on their Instagram page. Another frequently recommended place is Limpato Homestay (Google Maps).

How to reach the Harau Valley?

From Padang, direct minibuses leave frequently from this point (Google Maps). I took the Sinamar company — it took about 4–5 hours and cost IDR 30 000. The minibus drops you at the intersection leading to the valley (Google Maps). From there, mototaxis charge IDR 50 000 to take you into the valley. If you’re coming from Bukittinggi, the same minibus passes through this station (Google Maps).

Sarasah Tanggo Waterfall.

Bukittinggi

Nestled in the highlands of West Sumatra, Bukittinggi is a pleasant town with a cool climate. Conveniently located roughly halfway between Padang and the Harau Valley, it makes for a good intermediate stop to break up the journey.

Clock Square.

What to see and do in Bukittinggi

While the town is enjoyable enough, it’s nothing extraordinary. If you’re short on time, I’d suggest focusing your days elsewhere.

That said, in town you can check out the iconic Clock Square and its surroundings — the Jam Gadang (Google Maps). You can also visit the Japanese Tunnels (Google Maps), a network of bunkers from the time of the Japanese occupation. Entry is IDR 25,000, but be aware that there’s little to no information provided inside. From the tunnel exit, though, you get a nice view of the Sianok Valley (Google Maps), with Mount Singgalang in the background. The volcano was closed due to increased activity when I visited, but normally it’s possible to hike to the summit (AllTrails).

If you feel like walking, you can follow the “Little Chinese Wall” from the tunnel exit to this viewpoint (Google Maps); the trail is clearly marked on Organic Maps.

I didn’t visit Fort de Kock (Google Maps) as it was closed on Friday. Entry also includes access to the Taman Margasatwa dan Budaya Kinantan Zoo (Google Maps), but the zoo has quite poor reviews.

If you have a scooter, you could ride out of town to visit a few cultural sites, such as the Istano Basa Pagaruyung Palace (Google Maps) and two museums: Rumah Tuo Kampai Nan Panjang (Google Maps) and Bustanul Arifin PDIKM (Google Maps).

Japanese Tunnels.

Where to sleep in Bukittinggi?

I stayed in a private apartment shared with two other travelers, so I don’t have many other suggestions. However, Kareem Syariah Hostel Bukittinggi seems to offer cheap, clean rooms in a great location.

How to reach Bukittinggi?

From the Harau Valley, there are buses about every 30 minutes operated by the Sarah company (Google Maps), and they charge IDR 20,000. To or from Padang, you can take the same minibus mentioned earlier and just hop off when you arrive in Bukittinggi (Google Maps).

Finally, there are also direct connections to and from Padang Airport. I’m not sure how frequently they run, but the fare is around IDR 25,000.

Sianok Valley.

JAVA

With over 140 million inhabitants, Java is not only Indonesia’s most populous island but also one of the most densely populated regions in the world. Due to its proximity to Bali, the island sees a fair amount of tourism—especially in the east, where iconic volcanoes like Bromo and Ijen are located, as well as in the cultural hub of Yogyakarta, home to world-famous temples.

Jakarta

Home to more than 10 million people, Jakarta is Indonesia’s economic powerhouse and, technically, still its capital—although the government is in the process of moving the capital to Nusantara, a newly built city in East Kalimantan, Borneo.

Monas.

What to see and do in Jakarta

If you’re tight on time during your trip to Indonesia, I’d honestly suggest skipping Jakarta altogether—there are far more rewarding places to explore. However, if you do end up here for a day or two, there are some interesting sights worth checking out.

Like in many big cities, free walking tours are available and make for a good introduction. I did one through GuruWalk and found it enjoyable.

If you prefer to explore independently, start with the old colonial center around Taman Fatahillah Square (Google Maps). Here you’ll find several Dutch-era buildings and museums. The Jakarta Museum of History (Google Maps) is located right on the square and has a symbolic entrance fee. I also recommend visiting the nearby Bank Indonesia Museum (Google Maps), and just a short walk away, you’ll find a charming Buddhist temple (Google Maps).

Further south lies Monas (Google Maps), the iconic obelisk commemorating Indonesia’s independence. You can go up to the viewing platform at the top, but there’s often a queue. Nearby you’ll find Istiqlal Mosque (Google Maps), one of the largest mosques in the world—it’s open to visitors every day except Friday. Directly across the street is Jakarta Cathedral (Google Maps).

If you’re into modern and contemporary art, the MACAN Museum (Google Maps) is often highly recommended.

Finally, further south of the city near the Pancasila Fire Monument, you’ll find the enormous Taman Mini Indonesia Indah (TMII) park (Google Maps), home to numerous museums and cultural exhibits. I didn’t visit myself, but a few locals had good things to say about it.

Jakarta Cathedral.

Where to sleep in Jakarta?

I stayed at Wonderloft Hostel Kota Tua, a great budget option right in the heart of Jakarta’s Old Town. If you’re planning to spend a night or two in the city, I’d definitely recommend it.

How to reach Jakarta?

Thanks to its economic importance, Jakarta is extremely well-connected, with direct flights from countless airports across Indonesia. The airport is linked to the city by both train and bus—the best choice depends on where you’re staying.

Overland travel is also easy. Jakarta has direct bus connections to dozens of destinations, including long-haul routes like Denpasar in Bali and Padang in Sumatra (the latter takes around 24 hours!). There are also convenient train services to most major cities on the island of Java.

Taman Fatahillah Square.

Bogor

Located about an hour south of Jakarta, Bogor is known for its cooler climate and lush greenery, making it a popular getaway from the capital—or even a short stopover if you’re headed elsewhere. While it may not be a destination you’d go out of your way for, it can be a relaxing break from the chaos of Jakarta.

What to see and do in Bogor

The main attraction is the Bogor Botanical Garden (Google Maps), one of the oldest in Southeast Asia. It’s a peaceful place to walk around for a few hours and includes views of the adjacent Presidential Palace (Google Maps), though the palace itself is not open to the public. Entrance to the gardens is IDR 25,000. It’s a nice spot, but don’t expect anything extraordinary.

Beyond that, there’s not much to do in the city itself. I only stayed one night before heading to Bandung. However, if you’re up for renting a scooter and exploring the surrounding area, there are a few interesting day trips:

Presidential Palace.

Where to sleep in Bogor?

I stayed at Rion Hostel Bogor—great location, clean, and the staff were super friendly and helpful. Highly recommended. Another solid option is GIO Guesthouse Bogor.

How to reach Bogor?

From Jakarta, there are frequent commuter trains, and schedules can be easily checked on Google Maps. If you’re coming from or going to Jakarta Airport, there are direct DAMRI buses to avoid heading into the city center (Google Maps).

Bogor also has direct bus connections to Bandung from Terminal Baranangsiang (Google Maps). Alternatively, you can take a minivan from: Lintas Shuttle BTM (Google Maps) and Jackal Holidays Luxury Shuttle (Google Maps). You can book those on Traveloka.

Cimaja and Batukaras (Surfing in Java)

As mentioned earlier, I don’t surf—but among travelers, Pantai Cimaja (Google Maps) and especially Pantai Batukaras (Google Maps) are well-known and recommended surf spots on Java.

In general, Java has a number of surf-friendly beaches for all levels, and you’ll find more suggestions on pages dedicated to surfing in Indonesia. If you’re into surfing or just want to chill near the waves, Batukaras in particular seems like a great place to include in your itinerary.

Tea plantations in Bandung.

Bandung

After Jakarta and Surabaya, Bandung is the third-largest city on the island of Java. Thanks to its elevation of around 700–800 meters above sea level, the city enjoys a cooler and more pleasant climate than many other Indonesian cities.

What to Do and See in Bandung

Bandung isn’t especially popular with travelers, who usually head straight from Jakarta to Yogyakarta (or vice versa), but if you have some time to spare, there are definitely a few interesting spots to check out. I recommend a stroll along Jalan Braga (Google Maps), a lively street that’s especially enjoyable in the evening when it’s partially closed to traffic. You could also visit the Grand Mosque of Bandung (Masjid Raya Bandung) (Google Maps). I haven’t been myself, but I’ve heard that on weekends you’re allowed to climb to the top of the minaret for a view over the city.

Tangkuban Perahu Volcano

Tangkuban Perahu Volcano (Google Maps) lies north of the city and is easily reached by scooter. I rented mine from Vectoren Rental Motor (Google Maps). The road takes you right up to the crater rim, where you’ll get some spectacular views.

Unfortunately, the entrance fee for foreigners is quite steep: IDR 200,000 on weekdays and IDR 300,000 on weekends—about ten times what locals pay! If you want to visit the secondary crater, where the hot springs are (Google Maps), you’re required to hire a guide. The price seems to be negotiable, but they ask at least IDR 100,000 for what is essentially a short trail. I refused immediately.

Honestly, if you’re on a tight budget, I’d consider skipping it. Even if money isn’t an issue, I personally try not to support places that blatantly overcharge foreigners.

Before or after visiting the volcano, you might want to stop by Taman Hutan Raya Ir. H. Djuanda (Google Maps), a park on the city’s outskirts with several hiking trails. Admission is IDR 55,000 for foreigners. Honestly, it’s nothing extraordinary, but it’s a pleasant enough stop.

Tangkuban Perahu Volcano.

White Crater

Kawah Putih, or the White Crater (Google Maps), lies south of the city. This volcanic crater offers an otherworldly landscape that’s truly worth seeing.

You’ll have to leave your vehicle at the designated parking area (Google Maps) and take a shuttle up to the crater itself. The combined ticket costs IDR 110,000. This grants access to the crater and its stunning, milky-blue lake. If you want to reach the viewpoints, like Sunan Ibu (Google Maps), there’s an extra fee.

I also recommend dropping by the nearby tea plantations (Google Maps). The spot I’ve linked offers easy access and a short, relaxing walk among the tea bushes. You can end your day at one of the area’s hot springs. I visited Onsen Ranca Upas (Google Maps) and would say it’s worth a visit overall.

White crater.

Where to Stay in Bandung?

I stayed at Nindya Biodistrict Hotel Bandung, a clean and affordable capsule hotel with friendly staff. There’s also a great coworking space on-site. The location isn’t super central, but I didn’t find that to be a problem. Highly recommended.

How to Get to Bandung?

For travel to or from Jakarta or Yogyakarta, I recommend taking the train—it’s much more comfortable and faster than the bus. You can book tickets easily through Traveloka.

Mount Merapi and Mount Merbabu, Yogyakarta.

Yogyakarta

This large city of about half a million people is by far the most tourist-friendly destination on the entire island of Java, thanks largely to its proximity to two of the most important and impressive temples in the country. That said, the city itself has its own charm, and if you have an extra day, it’s definitely worth a visit.

What to Do and See in Yogyakarta

As one of the oldest cities in Indonesia, Yogyakarta is home to a number of historic buildings. The most important is probably the Sultan’s Palace (Google Maps), which may not leave you speechless, but is still worth visiting. Inside, you’ll find a small exhibition, and at certain times of day, traditional music and dance performances are held.

Not far from there, I also recommend visiting the Kampung Wisata Taman Sari (Google Maps), another palace complex that once belonged to the sultan. One of its pools was used by his harem, and from a nearby tower, he could… make his choice. These two places are probably the main points of interest in the city.

Kampung Wisata Taman Sari.

I also visited the Vredeburg Museum (Google Maps), which is mainly dedicated to the history of Indonesian independence. It’s nothing extraordinary, but the entrance fee is low, and it can be a nice way to escape the midday sun. In the evening, you might enjoy a stroll along Malioboro Street (Google Maps).

While I was there, the Merapi Volcano (Google Maps) was particularly active—at night, you could clearly see the lava glowing. I shared a Grab with a few people from the hostel to this spot (Google Maps), but the view wasn’t great. A friend of mine, though, went to this other location (Google Maps) and had better luck. In any case, it really depends on the current activity level of the volcano, and apparently, the shape of the crater keeps changing.

Merapi Volcano.

Borobudur Temple

I’ve seen many temples in my life, but this one is undoubtedly one of the most impressive. It’s no surprise that it’s the largest Buddhist temple in the world (Google Maps).

Unfortunately, it’s no longer possible to watch the sunrise from the top of the temple, as it was in the past. Access during the day is also limited. There are two types of tickets available: the “Temple Ground Ticket” and the “Temple Structure Ticket.” The first costs IDR 387,500 and only allows you to walk around the base of the temple. The second, which I highly recommend, costs IDR 455,000 and lets you climb to the top. However, only a limited number of these tickets are available, and you must book a time slot in advance. During the high season, they can sell out weeks ahead. You can find all the up-to-date info and book tickets directly on the official website.

Photo with local students.

I was lucky enough to visit Borobudur back when it was still possible to watch the sunrise from the top—it was a magical experience. But honestly, if you’re traveling on a tight budget and the “Temple Structure Tickets” are sold out, I’d say it’s a bit hard to justify the cost of entry.

To reach the site, which is only 40 km from Yogyakarta, you can take a local minibus from the Jombor terminal (Google Maps)—they leave frequently. Even better, consider renting a scooter for more flexibility.

Sunrise from the top of Borobudur.

Prambanan Temple

Due to its proximity to Borobudur, this Hindu temple complex is often overshadowed—but it’s absolutely stunning and not to be missed (Google Maps).

Originally, the complex included 240 temples, but many have been lost over the centuries, and the 2013 earthquake caused further damage. Still, what remains is nothing short of extraordinary. A couple of hours is usually enough to explore the site, so I recommend visiting both temples on the same day, starting with Borobudur, as it tends to be more crowded during the day.

You can purchase tickets from the official website for IDR 400,000. The complex is just 20 km from Yogyakarta and is easily reachable by local bus from the train station (Google Maps) or, again, by scooter.

Ratu Boko

Finally, there’s a third temple site in the area—Ratu Boko (Google Maps). It’s not as popular or impressive as the others, but it comes recommended by many travelers. Personally, I didn’t visit, so I can’t speak from experience.

Prambanan Temple.

Nepal Van Java and Mount Sumbing

Nepal Van Java (Google Maps), located on the slopes of Mount Sumbing (Google Maps), was one of the highlights of my last trip to Indonesia. This picturesque village is still relatively undiscovered by foreign tourists, and in my opinion, it’s definitely worth a visit—especially if combined with a hike up Mount Sumbing. That said, even just from the village itself, the views are already breathtaking.

To my knowledge, there is no public transportation to the village. Along with a few other travelers, I preferred to rent a scooter directly from our guesthouse in Yogyakarta. To break up the trip, we stopped at Air Terjun Kedung Kayang waterfall (Google Maps), which turned out to be quite nice—and overall, I recommend it.

Air Terjun Kedung Kayang.

You won’t find many hotels online, but there are a few guesthouses available. We rented a couple of rooms at Homestay Omah Biru (Google Maps). Two other recommended guesthouses are Homestay Dua Saudara (Google Maps) and Bintang Homestay (Google Maps). To book, you can send a WhatsApp message to the number listed on Google Maps.

At 3:00 a.m., as we were making our way up the volcano, two local tourists pointed out to us that, technically, you need to register at this point (Google Maps) before climbing to the summit. By then it was too late for us, and we couldn’t do it—but in the end, no one checked.

Depending on where you’re staying, you might be able to cut down some of the climb by parking near the trailhead (Google Maps). Be warned though: the village roads are extremely steep. Riding uphill with two people on an automatic scooter is difficult if not impossible, and going downhill without engine braking demands solid brakes.

In any case, we left around 3:00 a.m. and arrived at Pos 3 Sunrise Point (Google Maps) just in time to catch the sunrise around 5:30 a.m.

Our plan was to reach the actual summit, but after sunrise the clouds rolled in, so we turned back at Pos 4 (Google Maps).

The trail is very easy to follow and overall well maintained—you can find GPS coordinates on All Trails. If you decide to go all the way to the summit, keep in mind that the hike involves over 1,500 meters of elevation gain, so it’s definitely not a casual stroll!

Many locals seem to do the hike over two days, spending the night in tents. Some also hire motorcycle taxis (IDR 50,000–100,000) to cover the first stretch up to Pos 1 (Google Maps). Using your own vehicle is not allowed—and honestly, I wouldn’t recommend it anyway. Trust me on this one.

Sunrise at Pos 3.

Mount Merbabu

The hike to Mount Merbabu (Google Maps), starting from Yogyakarta, is a relatively popular trek. Foreigners are charged IDR 350,000, which I personally find quite unreasonable. In our case, there were no slots available on the day we had planned to go, so I opted for a different activity instead.

To do the hike, you first need to register on the official website and then choose one of several trails: Suwanting (All Trails), Merbabu (All Trails), Wekas (All Trails), and Thekelan (All Trails).

All of these involve a significant elevation gain, so the hike is not to be underestimated. If you’re planning to do it as a day trip from Yogyakarta, I highly recommend leaving early in the morning.

More things to do around Yogyakarta

I’ll preface this by saying that I didn’t personally visit the following attractions, but they were recommended by a local friend as a possible day trip from Yogyakarta.

You could start your day exploring the Goa Pindul Caves (Google Maps) and Goa Jomblang (Google Maps), then head to the beach—either Pantai Pok Tunggal (Google Maps) or Pantai Sadranan (Google Maps).

On the way back to Yogyakarta, consider stopping at HeHa Sky View (Google Maps), which offers great panoramic views over the city.

Where to sleep in Yogyakarta?

During my last visit to the city, I stayed at Ndalem Diajeng. It offers great value for money and the owner is incredibly kind and helpful—definitely recommended.

If you’re looking for something more upscale, Ostic House is a beautiful hostel located in the main tourist area. Many dorm beds are single and not bunk beds, rooms are air-conditioned, and there’s a fully equipped kitchen and even a gym.

For a more luxurious stay, Java Villas has nice rooms at competitive prices.

How to reach Yogyakarta?

Depending on where you are, domestic flights can be a great option—if booked in advance, they’re often very affordable.

Overland, from Jakarta, Bandung, or Surabaya (a common stop if you’re coming from Mt. Bromo), I highly recommend traveling by train, which you can easily book on Traveloka.

For travel to and from Karimunjawa, see the detailed instructions further below.

Nepal Van Java.

Karimunjawa

This 27-island archipelago offers pristine white-sand beaches, vibrant coral reefs, and a relaxed atmosphere. It’s a great destination for anyone looking to unplug for a few days, and it’s still relatively untouched by international tourists.

Note: The entire archipelago is part of a national park, so upon arrival, you’ll need to pay an entrance fee of IDR 150,000 during the week and IDR 225,000 on weekends.

Pantai Alano.

What to do and see in Karimunjawa

On the main island, where the ferry arrives, there are numerous beaches. While I haven’t had the chance to visit them all, my favorites include Pantai Bobby (Google Maps) and Pantai Alano (Google Maps). There’s a small entrance fee of IDR 5,000, but it’s well worth it—these beaches are clean and well-maintained, unlike many others in Indonesia.

A little further north, you can visit Pantai Barakuda (Google Maps), from where you can arrange boat trips to nearby Pulau Cilik (Google Maps) for fantastic snorkeling.

As the name suggests, Sunset Beach (Google Maps) is popular during sunset. The beach itself isn’t anything special, and it tends to be crowded. When I was there, there was a DJ set, and there are plenty of bars and restaurants around. If you’re looking for a livelier atmosphere, this might be a good option for you.

Pantai Bobby.

Island Hopping Tour

The island hopping tour is offered almost everywhere on the island, and it typically follows a standard itinerary: two snorkeling sessions and lunch on an island. In my case, we visited Pulau Cemara Besar (Google Maps). It’s a great way to spend the day.

Most accommodations and tour agencies charge around IDR 250,000 for the tour, but I managed to get a discount to IDR 200,000 by booking through CAFE WALAWARI (Google Maps), which also offers scooter rentals at excellent prices.

Pulau Cemara Besar.

Where to sleep in Karimunjawa?

I stayed at KALINDA HOMEY, which offers both private rooms and a small dormitory. It’s a cozy spot with lovely staff, delicious breakfast, and a great location. Highly recommended.

If you need to spend the night in Jepara before or after visiting Karimunjawa, there are plenty of guesthouses within walking distance of the port. I shared a room at Samudra Hotel.

How to reach Karimunjawa?

If you’re coming from Yogyakarta, I recommend taking the minivan offered by DayTrans (Google Maps) and selecting Jepara Ferry Terminal (Google Maps) as your destination. You can book online through their official website, Traveloka, or go directly to their office.

Once you arrive in Jepara, you have two options:

  • Express Bahari fast boat (IDR 200,000): This can be booked through their app, but it tends to sell out quickly during peak season, so it’s best to book in advance.
  • Slow ferry (IDR 100,000): You can book online at this site. Please note, at the time of writing this guide, you need a local bank account to complete the payment.

Another option is to take the ferry from Semarang (Google Maps), which travels overnight, saving you the cost of accommodation. Semarang is also home to an airport with direct flights to Bali and Jakarta.

No matter which option you choose, connections to the island are not daily, so be sure to plan your travel ahead of time. As of now, flights to the island have not resumed since the COVID-19 pandemic.

If you’re coming from the east, there are direct buses from Bungurasih Terminal in Surabaya (Google Maps) to Jepara (Google Maps). I traveled the opposite way and took a bus at 8:30 a.m., which cost IDR 165,000 (including lunch) and took about 8 hours. At the time of writing this guide, it was not possible to book online, so I recommend checking locally for availability.

Mount Bromo.

N.B. The following destinations—Malang, Bromo, Tumpak Sewu, and Ijen—offer different travel options. If you’re short on time, don’t want to drive, or prefer not to use public transportation, it’s definitely worth considering a tour, as the prices are very competitive. Essentially, these tours are more like shared taxis, and they can take you to Bromo, Tumpak Sewu, Ijen, and end the trip at the port to catch the direct ferry to Bali.

Alternatively, you could opt for a tour that only covers Bromo and Ijen, or Bromo and Tumpak Sewu—there are plenty of options, and if you’re traveling in a group, you can customize the itinerary. This can also be arranged in the reverse direction, starting from Bali.

For more independence, I recommend renting a scooter in Malang (I rented mine at Rental Motor Malang FALSUD) or Probolinggo and taking the Malang, Bromo, and Tumpak Sewu loop circuit over several days. The distances are short, and the roads are in good condition.

You could also decide to travel by public transportation—more details are available in the sections on individual destinations.

Malang

Malang is not a particularly popular destination among travelers but can serve as a good base for exploring the area by scooter or visiting Tumpak Sewu on a day trip.

What to do and see in Malang

As mentioned, there is not much to do in the city itself, with the only real attraction being Kampung Warna Warni Jodipan, or “rainbow village” (Google Maps). This is a nice redevelopment project of a very poor neighborhood, where the houses, roofs, and alleys have been painted in bright colors, transforming the area into a tourist attraction. In my opinion, it’s not extraordinary, but it’s a pleasant way to spend an hour or so. Admission costs IDR 10,000.

Malang is also an excellent base for arranging a hike to Semeru volcano (Google Maps), the highest on the island of Java at 3,676 meters. It was particularly active during my last visit, so climbing wasn’t possible. However, a local I met in Yogyakarta, who has climbed all the volcanoes in Java, told me that Semeru is his favorite. The hike is typically completed in 2-3 days (All Trails).

Rainbow village.

Where to sleep in Malang?

I spent one night at Condro Wulan Hostel, a very nice hostel with lovely staff, located in a residential area outside the center. The location isn’t the most convenient, but I would still recommend it. A Grab ride from downtown isn’t expensive at all. Tour prices for Bromo, Tumpak Sewu, and Ijen are very competitive.

How to reach Malang?

Malang is well connected by train to the main destinations in the surrounding area—Yogyakarta, Surabaya, Probolinggo (for Bromo), and Banyuwangi (for Ijen). You can book online via Traveloka.

If you are arriving from Karimunjawa at the Bungurasih Terminal in Surabaya (Google Maps), express buses frequently depart from platform 7 for IDR 40,000.

Mount Bromo

This is undoubtedly the most famous of the volcanoes on the island of Java and one of my absolute favorite views from all my travels. I’ve been there twice over the years, something I don’t normally do. Enjoy this surreal landscape as much as possible!

Sunrise over Mount Bromo.

What to do and see at Mt. Bromo

Before you even get to Mount Bromo, if you are traveling by scooter or have a private driver, you might consider stopping at Air Terjun Madakaripura waterfall (Google Maps). It’s a very impressive waterfall that, unfortunately, seems to have been taken over by the “local mafia.” On my last visit, the waterfall was even officially closed due to heavy rains damaging the road, but the locals decided you could still visit if you paid for a mandatory guide and taxi service. Read recent reviews, but if things haven’t changed, as beautiful as the waterfall is, I would avoid supporting such behavior.

Once you arrive at Cemoro Lawang (where the entrance to the national park is located and the starting point for the trails to the main viewpoints), you can finally enjoy the incredible view of Mount Bromo and Mount Semeru in the background. Numerous tours are offered in the village, but you don’t need to join any of them to fully enjoy this amazing place.

While extremely popular and often overcrowded, sunrise on Mt. Bromo from the Seruni viewpoint is practically a must (Google Maps). If you’re up for a bit more walking, I personally recommend climbing up to King Kong Hill (Google Maps).

Sunrise from King Kong Hill.

Horse or Jeep transportation is offered in the village (up to a certain point, a short distance from Seruni), but honestly, it’s not necessary. Just leave on time in the morning, and you can easily reach the viewpoint on foot. All viewpoints are free of charge and do not require payment for the national park entrance fee!

After seeing the sunrise, most organized tours then head to the actual crater of Mount Bromo, which makes it quite crowded. If you decide to spend another night in Cemoro Lawang, I recommend visiting the crater in the afternoon. In any case, you will have to pay the entrance fee to the park (IDR 220,000, rising to IDR 320,000 during weekends and local holidays).

You can easily walk to the crater of the volcano (Google Maps), which takes about 45 minutes from the village. If you want, you can also climb to the top of the nearby Batok volcano (Google Maps). If you want to avoid paying entrance fees, there are several unofficial trails to enter the park, such as the ones at these points (Google Maps and Google Maps).

Crater of Mount Bromo.

Where to sleep in Cemoro Lawang (Mount Bromo)?

On my last visit, I shared a room at Gigafa homestay, which wasn’t much, but in the middle of August, there wasn’t much choice. These guesthouses, slightly outside of Cemoro Lawang, tend to be cheaper. If you have your own vehicle, they’re a good option. If you’re traveling by public transportation, I recommend sleeping in Cemoro Lawang itself.

How to reach Cemoro Lawang (Mt. Bromo)?

Reaching the volcano, and more specifically Cemoro Lawang, is quite easy. If you’re traveling by scooter, the road is in very good condition. The only advice I’d give is to use a big scooter, especially if you’re sharing. The road to the village is really steep in some places. To and from Tumpak Sewu waterfall, you can drive through the national park on what’s called the “sea of sand.” However, it’s a sandy road that requires good driving skills. I’ve personally seen a lot of people end up on the ground. Also, unless you decide to leave Cemoro Lawang the same day you visit the national park, you’ll need to pay admission again because the road goes through it. Essentially, consider going the “long way around.”

For public transportation, the town that serves as the crossroads is Probolinggo. Whether you’ve arrived from the west or east, you’ll need to take the first train to Probolinggo (Google Maps). You can make reservations on Traveloka. Once you arrive at the train station, take a Grab to the Bungurasih bus station (Google Maps). From Surabaya Airport, there are frequent public bus connections directly to Bungurasih Bus Station.

Please note: Once you arrive in Probolinggo, either by bus or train, the “problems” begin. If you arrive by bus from Surabaya or Banyuwangi (Ijen volcano), only get off once you’ve arrived at the Bungurasih bus station. Be wary of anyone who tells you to get off at any other point, including the driver. Upon arriving at the bus station (as well as the train station), you’ll likely be mobbed by people who may be friendly at first, but if you don’t do as they say, they may become aggressive. Just ignore them right away, and be prepared for what is likely to be an unpleasant situation.

Minivans heading to Cemoro Lawang leave from just outside the terminal on the right (Google Maps) once they reach 10-15 passengers. Again, ignore anyone who tries to help you or tells you that the accommodations in Cemoro Lawang are all sold out or any other nonsense. Don’t give your money in advance to anyone and only pay once the bus/minivan has left. If the minivan stops on the way at bogus national park checkpoints, don’t pull out a penny—the real entrance is at the end of the village. The only fee you have to pay is IDR 10,000 for village conservation. If you’re traveling in a group or are on a tight budget, consider sharing a Grab to the village to avoid any hassle.

The road crossing the “sea of sand.”

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall

The iconic Tumpak Sewu waterfall (Google Maps) is undoubtedly among the most famous in Indonesia. It can get extremely crowded during the middle hours of the day, especially on weekends, but it is still worth a visit because it is so impressive. If you enter from this side (Google Maps), they ask for IDR 50,000 to access the viewing terrace. From there, you can go down to the actual waterfall, where they ask for another IDR 50,000. Once at the bottom, I also recommend walking to the Goa Tetes waterfall (Google Maps), where you will find a path leading up through the waterfall to a small cave.

If you enter directly from the opposite side, thus not going through the viewing terrace, you would theoretically only need to pay the IDR 50,000 for entry (Google Maps).

Although many people, including yours truly (who had a train to catch), visit only Tumpak Sewu, there are at least four other noteworthy waterfalls nearby that, if you have time, are worth visiting:

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall.

Where to sleep at the Tumpak Sewu waterfall?

If you have time and especially don’t just want to visit Tumpak Sewu, I think it’s worth spending a night nearby—maybe even two depending on what time you arrive. In any case, I shared a room at D’corner Homestay. They also have a dormitory. The facility is nothing exceptional, but the staff is very nice. All in all, I recommend it. It’s about a 20-minute walk to the waterfall and close to a good, cheap warung.

How to reach the Tumpak Sewu waterfall?

As mentioned above, if you travel by scooter to and from Bromo, you can drive through the national park on what is called the “sea of sand.” However, it is a sandy road that requires good driving skills. I have personally seen many people end up on the ground. For most people, I think it is preferable to take the “long road.”

By public transportation, I think it is always convenient to go through Malang. From Bayangan Gadang Terminal (Google Maps), take the direct bus to Lumajang and get off at the waterfall. If you plan to visit the waterfall on a day trip, try to leave early in the morning, as the last bus back to Malang should be around 3 pm.

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall.

Banyuwangi and Bondowoso (Kawah Ijen)

Kawah Ijen, commonly referred to simply as “Ijen,” is a volcano perhaps not as photogenic as its “neighbor” Mt. Bromo but undoubtedly spectacular—and definitely worth a visit when traveling across Java. It’s an active volcano with a sulfur mine in its crater, which is largely filled with water, forming a surreal, bright blue acid lake.

De Djawatan Forest.

Kawah Ijen

The hike to the volcano is typically done at night, allowing you to first witness the famous blue fire—caused by ignited sulfuric gases near the crater floor—and then climb to the rim to watch the sunrise. It’s an unforgettable experience.

The downside? Watching local miners hauling huge loads of sulfur up and down the volcano while dodging the flood of tourists on the trail is sobering.

Banyuwangi is the most common gateway for visiting Ijen due to its proximity to Bali and its rail connections with the rest of Java. However, Ijen can also be approached from the west via Bondowoso. Either option works fine, and your choice should be based on your travel route:

  • If you’re coming from the west and heading to Bali, Bondowoso can be a good choice, and you can arrange a tour that includes a transfer to Banyuwangi.
  • If you’re already near or heading toward Banyuwangi, just base yourself there—train travel is easier from this side.

Sunrise on Mount Ijen.

In any case, the most practical and economical way to visit the crater is with a tour, starting from either city, since public transportation to the volcano is essentially nonexistent.

Tour prices range from IDR 500,000 to 750,000, typically including transportation, a guide, entrance fee, and a gas mask (which is essential—the crater is a sulfur mine and the emissions can be harmful). If you book from Banyuwangi, the tour sometimes includes a stop at two nearby waterfalls as well.

The hike to the crater is about 3 km and quite steep. If you’re fit, you can reach the top in under an hour. Bring at least a sweatshirt for the summit, and a flashlight or headlamp if one isn’t provided by your tour. If you’re on a tighter budget, you could also arrange transport only and go without a guide—it’s not strictly necessary.

Lastly, if you stay in Banyuwangi, consider visiting De Djawatan Forest (Google Maps). It features some truly fascinating old trees—not a must-see, but a pleasant stop if you have a few hours before or after your Ijen trek. Entry costs IDR 17,000. I shared a Grab to the forest with a friend, and from there we went straight to the ferry pier for Bali.

De Djawatan Forest.

Where to sleep in Banyuwangi and Bondowoso?

Banyuwangi: I shared a room at Good Feeling Ijen Banyuwangi,—clean and cheap, with friendly and helpful staff. If you’re looking for a dorm, Ijen Backpacker and Ninap hostel are solid options.

Bondowoso: Accommodation options are more limited. Ijen Bondowoso Home Stay seems decent and is one of the better-known options.

How to reach Banyuwangi and Bondowoso?

Banyuwangi: There are direct buses between Probolinggo and Banyuwangi, but the Probolinggo bus terminal is notoriously chaotic and filled with scammers. If you want to avoid the hassle, just take the train—it’s cheaper, more comfortable, and scam-free. You can book tickets online via Traveloka.

To/from Bali, there are frequent buses between Mengwi Bus Terminal in Denpasar (Google Maps) and Pelabuhan Gilimanuk Bus Terminal (Google Maps). I used Sehati Bus, booked via WhatsApp (you can find schedules and contact info on their Instagram page). The ride cost IDR 50,000. From Gilimanuk Port (Google Maps), ferries run regularly (day and night) to Ketapang Port (Google Maps), just outside Banyuwangi. Tickets cost IDR 15,000. At the time of writing, payment required a local bank account, but you can usually find someone nearby who can book it for you for a small fee.

Bondowoso: From Probolinggo, buses are your only option. If you’re coming from Bali and continuing on to Bromo, you could arrange your Ijen tour in a way that drops you off in Bondowoso. From there, continue by bus to Probolinggo or return to Banyuwangi and take the train.

The load that poor miners carry on their shoulders.

BALI

Bali is by far the most popular and touristy island in the entire Indonesian archipelago. I first visited in 2016 and returned in 2024, and to say the island has changed a lot over the years would be an understatement. Of course, it all depends on what you’re looking for—but as far as I’m concerned, South Bali is now best avoided. Both Indonesia and Bali itself have far more to offer elsewhere.

Note: Thanks to its compact size, Bali is perfect for exploring by scooter. If you’re traveling light, I highly recommend renting one as soon as you arrive and keeping it for your entire stay. On my most recent trip, I arrived from Java to Denpasar and rented a scooter through Bali Rental Motor – BRM Rent Bike In Bali (Google Maps). You can even take it to Lombok. I paid 1 million rupiah for 17 days. That said, there are dozens of scooter rental shops across South Bali. A quick search on Google Maps based on your location should turn up plenty of options.

Mount Agung.

South Bali (Denpasar, Kuta, Seminyak, Legian, and Sanur)

South Bali is the island’s main tourist hub—and one of the most visited areas in all of Indonesia. As mentioned earlier, I’m not exactly a fan. That said, if you’re looking for convenience, modern amenities, Western-style restaurants, nightlife, and all that, this area might still be right for you.

What to Do and See in South Bali (Denpasar, Kuta, Seminyak, Legian, and Sanur)

For your convenience, this section covers all of the destinations listed above—what could now be considered the “Denpasar metropolitan area.” Once separate villages, they’ve merged into one continuous urban sprawl due to tourism-driven development.

Kuta

Kuta (Google Maps) is probably the most Westernized destination on the island. Expect endless bars and clubs where you can party for a few euros, plus international chains like McDonald’s, Starbucks, and Hard Rock. The beach isn’t bad either and is good for surfing. Be warned: the area is notoriously overcrowded, especially in high season.

Seminyak and Legian

Seminyak (Google Maps), just north of Kuta, is another popular spot in the Denpasar area—and probably the most upscale. It’s full of luxury hotels and villas, with slightly higher prices to match. The beach is nice, less crowded, and dotted with beach bars and warungs, though it’s not great for surfing. Between Seminyak and Kuta lies Legian (Google Maps), which feels like a middle ground between the two.

Uluwatu Temple.

Canggu

Canggu (Google Maps), about 10 km further north, used to be a low-key alternative to the rest of the west coast. But in recent years, it’s exploded in popularity—especially among digital nomads. Expect the classic laptop-in-every-café vibe, with vegan restaurants, coworking spaces, and yoga studios around every corner. The beach is decent, the surfing is solid, and the nightlife rivals anything further south.

Sanur

Sanur (Google Maps), unlike the other Denpasar-area resorts, sits on the east coast and is one of Bali’s oldest resort areas. It’s known as a mellow destination favored by seniors and families. The beach is pleasant and far less crowded, though not ideal for surfing—better for kitesurfing instead. Sanur also makes a great base for day trips to Nusa Penida, Lembongan, and Ceningan (boats depart from Sanur Harbor), or to explore the eastern part of the island without needing to switch accommodations.

Tanah Lot Temple.

Top Attractions in South Bali

Any of the areas above can be used as a base for exploring South Bali’s attractions. Many travelers book tours to other parts of the island while staying entirely in the south—but I think that’s a mistake.

Tanah Lot (Google Maps), one of Bali’s most iconic temples, is located about 10 km north of Canggu. It’s especially stunning (and crowded) at sunset.

Taman Ayun (Google Maps) sits roughly 25 km north of Denpasar and tends to be quieter. I suggest visiting it in the afternoon, then heading to Tanah Lot for sunset.

Depending on where you’re staying, you could also check out Tegenungan Waterfall (Google Maps).

To the south of Denpasar lies the Bukit Peninsula, home to the spectacular Uluwatu Temple (Google Maps), perched dramatically on a cliff above the sea. It’s definitely worth a visit. While you’re there, stop by Suluban Beach (Google Maps), a tiny cove nestled between cliffs that’s accessible by steep stairs—not great for swimming but very scenic. On top of the cliff, you’ll find several clifftop bars where you can watch surfers and enjoy the sunset—Delpi Café is especially nice. This area is known as Blue Point.

Other beautiful beaches on the peninsula include Balangan Beach, Bingin Beach and Padang Padang.

Taman Ayun Temple.

Where to Stay in South Bali?

There are literally thousands of places to stay in this part of Bali. If nightlife isn’t a priority and you just want a quiet, convenient location close to both the airport and the speedboats to Nusa and the Gilis, I recommend Suwardika Homestay & Dormitory. It’s a genuine homestay inside a traditional Balinese home, complete with its own small temple. The family is warm and welcoming.

Other accommodations I’ve personally stayed at and would recommend if you want a private room include:

How to Get to South Bali?

If you’re traveling light, there’s a super handy pedestrian entrance (Google Maps) just outside the airport where you can grab a motorbike taxi or get dropped off—for a fraction of the price you’d pay inside the terminal. It’s just a 5-minute walk from the main exit.

Alternatively, booking a transfer through Klook is usually cheaper than a regular taxi. There’s also a dedicated lounge at the airport where Klook staff can help you get in touch with your driver, if needed. Public transportation to and from the airport is practically nonexistent.

Traditional dance and music performance.

Ubud

Made famous by the book Eat, Pray, Love, the small town of Ubud may appear to visitors as a single urban sprawl, but it’s actually composed of 14 different villages. However, due to the rapid growth driven by tourism, they’ve all blended together. Much like in South Bali, I believe the authentic charm is largely gone—replaced by crowds of tourists, traffic jams, and endless souvenir shops. That said, Ubud still makes for an excellent base to explore many interesting places in the surrounding area.

Pura Tirta Empul Temple.

What to Do and See in Ubud

When people talk about Ubud, they’re usually referring to the town center, where the Ubud Market (now essentially a souvenir market) (Google Maps) and the Ubud Palace (Google Maps) are located. Nearby, you’ll find a few temples worth visiting, including Taman Saraswati Temple (Google Maps) and Pura Gunung Lebah (Google Maps). If the weather is clear, the short trail from Gunung Lebah can offer nice views of Mount Agung (Google Maps).

No trip to Ubud is complete without a walk through the famous Monkey Forest (Google Maps) —a forest sanctuary where dozens of monkeys roam freely among trees and ancient ruins. While undeniably touristy, it’s not a bad experience, especially when traditional dance and music performances are taking place (as they were during my visit). Entry is IDR 100,000. Just don’t bring food with you—the monkeys will try to steal it, sometimes aggressively.

Monkey Forest.

For those willing to venture a bit further, several temples are within easy reach as part of a day trip:

If you set off early, you can begin your day at the iconic Tegalalang Rice Terraces (Google Maps) to avoid the crowds. From there, consider adding a stop at Tukad Cepung Waterfall (Google Maps), located a short drive from Pura Kehen, and perhaps the traditional Penglipuran Village (Google Maps). Other nearby waterfalls worth checking out include Tibumana (Google Maps) and Kanto Lampo (Google Maps).

Tegalalang Rice Terraces.

Where to Stay in Ubud?

On my last visit, I stayed at Bulan Bali Guest House. Nothing fancy, but a solid budget option if you’re just looking for a cheap and decent place to sleep.

How to Get to Ubud?

If you’re not riding a scooter, ride-hailing apps like Grab, Gojek, or Indrive are all convenient and cheap, especially if you split the fare. Alternatively, Perama runs shuttle services at fair prices. You could also try hopping on a bemo (local minivan) from Batubulan Terminal (Google Maps), although it’s more of an adventure than a practical choice.

Central Bali (Munduk and Bedugul)

The name Bedugul generally refers to the central highlands of Bali, an area made up of several small villages—including the actual village of Bedugul and nearby Munduk. The entire region lies around three volcanic crater lakes and offers a much cooler, greener escape from Bali’s southern heat.

The rice fields of Jatiluwih.

What to Do and See in Central Bali

Even before reaching Bedugul from southern Bali or Ubud, there are a few worthwhile stops. First up are the Jatiluwih Rice Terraces (Google Maps)—arguably the most stunning on the entire island. The main entrance charges IDR 50,000 (Google Maps), but you can avoid the fee by parking near Pura Luhur Besikalung (Google Maps) and walking up.

Nearby, you’ll also find the Air Panas Angseri hot springs (Google Maps) for a relaxing dip. Along the way, there are two picturesque waterfalls: Air Terjun Leke (Google Maps) and Air Terjun Nungnung (Google Maps).

In Bedugul itself, the main draw is the iconic Ulun Danu Beratan Temple (Google Maps), sitting right on the shores of Lake Beratan. It’s undeniably beautiful and one of Bali’s most photographed temples—but it can get overwhelmingly crowded. During my last visit, the parking lot was full of vans and tour buses; I didn’t even bother going inside. I’d personally skip it. The same goes for the popular “Bali Handara Gate” (Google Maps) which has become a paid photo-op spot with long lines. Honestly? Meh.

Air Terjun Melanting.

That said, one place that is worth the effort is Sekumpul Waterfall (Google Maps) —considered one of Bali’s most breathtaking. Unfortunately, they now require hiring a guide (IDR 150,000 per person), plus an entrance fee (IDR 20,000). There are two other waterfalls nearby—Hidden Waterfall (Google Maps) and Fiji Waterfall (Google Maps)—with trails clearly marked on Organic Maps. You definitely don’t need a guide. I personally avoid supporting this kind of tourist trap setup.

In Munduk, things are far more laid-back and peaceful. You could spend days here just hiking from one waterfall to another. A good starting point is Air Terjun Munduk (Google Maps). From there, you can follow a trail down to other falls like Golden Valley Waterfalls (Google Maps) and Air Terjun Melanting (Google Maps), all well-marked on Organic Maps. A bit farther out, you’ll also find the stunning Banyumala Twin Falls (Google Maps).

To end your day, consider visiting the local Munduk Rice Terraces at sunset (Google Maps), followed by dinner at the scenic Warung Heaven (Google Maps), a small restaurant with fantastic views.

Air Terjun Munduk.

Where to Stay in Munduk?

During my last visit, I stayed at Taman Ayu Homestay. Excellent value for money, with beautiful valley views right from the room. The staff were warm and helpful—highly recommended.

How to Get to Munduk?

If you’re not riding a scooter, ride-hailing apps like Grab, Gojek or Indrive are practical and affordable options. Perama also runs shuttle services at fair prices.

Munduk rice terraces.

Lovina

Located on Bali’s north coast, Lovina is one of my favorite spots on the island. It’s a much more relaxed and less touristy area compared to the south, making it a great place to unwind. The beach may not be the best in Bali, but it’s still perfectly decent for a swim or sunset stroll.

What to Do and See in Lovina

Even before reaching Lovina, you can make a few scenic stops along the way. Two waterfalls worth visiting en route are Gitgit Falls (Google Maps) and Aling-Aling (Google Maps) —both set in lush surroundings and great for a short hike and a cool-down.

Lovina is best known for the dolphins that regularly swim off its coast. Sightings are so common that there’s a huge dolphin statue in the town’s main square. Unsurprisingly, most tour operators offer early morning boat trips to spot them. It’s touristy but still an enjoyable experience if you time it right.

From Lovina, you can also arrange diving and snorkeling trips to West Bali National Park (Taman Nasional Bali Barat). The marine life here is vibrant and the underwater visibility is usually excellent. That said, despite being a protected area, I was disappointed by the amount of trash I saw on the beaches—something to keep in mind.

For those who haven’t had their fill of waterfalls yet, there are more nearby: Sing Sing Waterfall (Google Maps) and Blahmantung Waterfall (Google Maps) are both worth checking out. Afterward, you can visit Brahma Vihara Arama (Google Maps), the largest Buddhist temple on the island, and then unwind at the nearby Banjar Hot Springs (Google Maps) —a relaxing spot surrounded by lush gardens.

How to Reach Lovina?

If you’re not riding a scooter, ride-hailing apps like Grab, Gojek or Indrive are good and affordable choices. Perama also runs shuttle services at fair prices.

Buy fruit from the nice lady in the square!

East Bali (Padang Bai, Kintamani, Amed, and Amlapura)

The eastern part of the island is by far my favorite. Far from the hustle and bustle of southern Bali, it offers a more relaxed atmosphere, lower prices, and a variety of interesting attractions—without the crowds.

What to Do and See in East Bali

East Bali covers a large area, and many sights are located between destinations rather than in the towns themselves. I’ll try to organize things logically, but you’ll want to plan based on your interests and the direction you’re heading.

Padang Bai

Padang Bai is a small port town mainly known as the departure point for boats to the Gili Islands and Lombok. For many, it’s just a stopover—but if you’ve got some time, spending a couple of days here can be worthwhile.

The main beach near the harbor isn’t great, but you don’t have to go far to find much better ones. To the east, Blue Lagoon (Google Maps) offers decent snorkeling, while Bias Tugel (Google Maps) to the west is a beautiful white sand beach, perfect for swimming.

There are also a few temples you can visit: Pura Luhur Silayukti (Google Maps) is close by, while Pura Goa Lawah (Google Maps), just outside town, features a bat-filled cave that makes it a bit more unique—though not particularly exceptional.

Bias Tugel.

Kintamani (Mount Batur)

Heading north from Padang Bai toward Kintamani, there are a few worthwhile stops. First is Gembleng Waterfall (Google Maps), home to an iconic natural infinity pool. The waterfall itself isn’t remarkable, but it’s well-managed—no mandatory guides, just a simple donation at the entrance, and a scenic restaurant with good food.

Further along the road, the Sidemen rice terraces (Google Maps) are worth a detour. And don’t miss Besakih Temple (Google Maps), which I think is the most impressive temple on the island.

Kintamani itself is a mountainous region best known for Mount Batur (Google Maps) and the lake of the same name. Most tourist facilities are found in Toya Bungkah, the village at the base of the volcano, which also serves as the starting point for the popular sunrise trek to the summit.

While many join organized tours, contrary to what locals might claim, it’s not illegal to hike without a guide. There are several routes (All Trails) (All Trails) (All Trails). However, recent reports suggest that a local “mafia” is pressuring hikers to pay inflated fees for unnecessary guides. I would personally avoid supporting that. That said, expect the summit to be crowded at sunrise, especially in peak season.

If hiking isn’t your thing, there are several cafes and restaurants that offer amazing views of the volcano at dawn, like AKASA Specialty Coffee (Google Maps). Even pulling over along the road can be rewarding.

While you’re in the area, it’s also worth visiting Pura Ulun Danu Batur (Google Maps), one of Bali’s most important temples.

Sunrise from Mount Batur.

Amed

Amed and the surrounding coast were among the last areas in Bali to be developed for tourism, and they still feel relatively untouched. Even during peak season in August, I found it pleasantly quiet.

The main draw here is the diving and snorkeling, with sites like the Liberty Wreck in Tulamben, a U.S. Navy ship sunk in 1942, being a major highlight. I haven’t dived in Amed myself, but friends who have say it’s absolutely worth it.

For snorkeling, you don’t need a tour—you can go directly from the beach at Pantai Jemeluk (Google Maps) or Lipah Beach (Google Maps).

Liberty Wreck.

Amed is also a good base for visiting the Lempuyang Temple (Google Maps), known for its “Gates of Heaven” photo with Mount Agung in the background. I’ve personally avoided it due to the long queues—people reportedly wait for hours just for the shot. Instead, I visited Lahangan Sweet (Google Maps), where you’ll find similar views (including a replica of the gates), a 50,000 IDR entrance fee, and far fewer people—even in August.

If you’re feeling adventurous, you can hike Mount Agung, Bali’s highest peak at 3,148 meters. The shortest trail (All Trails) starts from Pura Pasar Agung (Google Maps) and climbs about 1,300 meters. I didn’t get to do it myself, but a friend told me it’s a challenging and rewarding hike. Sadly, the local mafia reportedly charges 200,000 IDR to climb—even without a guide—which is totally illegal. Check Google Maps reviews for a reality check on how things are being run.

Lahangan Sweet.

Amlapura

Located between Padang Bai and Amed, Amlapura and its surroundings are worth exploring. One of the best spots to visit at sunrise is Bukit Cinta (Google Maps), where you’ll get a beautiful view of rice fields with Mount Agung in the background.

Bukit Cinta.

On the other hand, I strongly recommend skipping Tirta Gangga (Google Maps). They charge 70,000 IDR, and there’s really nothing to do except join the crowds taking photos—it’s a tourist trap in my opinion. I haven’t been to Taman Ujung (Google Maps), but it looks far more interesting.

Tirta Gangga.

Another great stop is the traditional village of Bugbug (Google Maps). From this point (Google Maps), you get a lovely panorama over the rice fields. Nearby Virgin Beach (Google Maps) is also a solid choice for some beach time. There’s a small entrance fee at the checkpoint  (Google Maps).

Bugbug traditional village.

Getting Around East Bali?

In this part of Bali, having your own vehicle (especially a scooter) is even more useful than elsewhere. Still, Grab, Gojek and Indrive are decent options for getting between towns. Perama shuttles also run at reasonable prices.

Where to Stay in East Bali?

The only place I wholeheartedly recommend is LinkeesHome Bungaya—excellent value for money, and the owner is an absolute gem. That said, East Bali is very flexible when it comes to accommodation. Even in mid-August, I never had trouble booking something last minute.

Virgin Beach.

Nusa Islands (Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Ceningan, and Nusa Penida)

These three islands lie off the coast of Sanur in southeastern Bali. Collectively known as the Nusa Islands, they’re only about 15 km from Bali, but for many years they remained far less touristy and crowded than the mainland. While things have changed quite a bit recently, they still offer a great escape from the hustle and bustle of southern Bali.

Blue Lagoon.

All three islands are excellent for diving and snorkeling. There are dozens of dive shops — while I haven’t dived here myself, a couple of friends over the years have recommended Scuba Junkie Penida and Mambo Dive Center. Visibility is better during the dry season, but manta rays and sunfish (mola mola) can be seen throughout the year. I did a snorkeling tour with my hostel on Nusa Penida and managed to see a couple of manta rays.

Devil’s Tears.

Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan

Lembongan, the closest island to Bali, is the most developed. It’s connected to the smaller Nusa Ceningan by a bridge, and the two can almost be thought of as one compact island — easy to explore in a single day. To be honest, there aren’t that many major attractions here. In my opinion, the nicest beach is Dream Beach (Google Maps), and just next to it is the official access to Devil’s Tears (Google Maps), a dramatic stretch of coastline where waves crash against the rocks in spectacular fashion. It’s also a great spot for sunset. Locals charge IDR 25,000 to enter, but if you want to skip the fee, you can access the area via Sandy Bay Beach (Google Maps).

A similar spot on Nusa Ceningan can be found here (Google Maps), and I also recommend stopping by the nearby Blue Lagoon (Google Maps). Finally, if you’ve never seen a mangrove forest before, you can rent a kayak or join a guided tour from Mangrove Point (Google Maps).

Mangrove Point.

Nusa Penida

Of the three, Nusa Penida is the largest and, in my opinion, the most beautiful. I’d recommend spending at least a couple of days here. Your experience will depend a lot on where you stay, but renting a scooter is the best way to explore.

You could start the day with a visit to Goa Giri Putri Temple (Google Maps), which is located inside a cave and is quite a unique experience. Then head to Atuh Beach (Google Maps) and Diamond Beach (Google Maps) before the crowds arrive from Bali. Entrance is IDR 35,000, plus another IDR 5,000 for parking.

Diamond Beach.

I unintentionally entered via Atuh Beach Free Entrance (Google Maps) and didn’t pay anything — but as noted in the reviews, the locals around the parking area aren’t particularly friendly. The official entrance is at Diamond and Atuh Car Park (Google Maps).

From there, continue to the Thousand Islands Viewpoint (Google Maps) and Suwehan Beach (Google Maps) — the latter was stunning and almost deserted when I visited. The descent is a bit of a workout, but if you’re after peace and quiet, it’s totally worth it. Another option is Tembeling Beach and Forest (Google Maps), though I haven’t been there personally, so I can’t comment.

To wrap up your day, catch the sunset at a scenic viewpoint. I visited Banah Cliff Point (Google Maps) — the road is rough, but the coastal views are amazing. Another nearby option is Saren Cliff Point (Google Maps).

Suwehan Beach.

On your second day, start early at the iconic Kelingking Beach (Google Maps). The earlier you arrive, the better — I got there at sunrise and had a fantastic time. The beach is breathtaking, although not ideal for swimming. I found the steep descent fun, but for others it might be a bit intimidating. Unfortunately, they’re building an elevator, which will likely make it even more crowded in the future.

Kelingking Beach.

From Kelingking, you can head to Angel’s Billabong (Google Maps), where there’s a natural pool that’s best visited at low tide, and nearby Broken Beach (Google Maps), where a natural arch separates a small lagoon from the ocean — it’s a very photogenic spot, though also quite popular. If you walk along the coast toward Korawa Beach (Google Maps), you might spot manta rays from the cliffs. Even if you don’t, it’s a lovely walk.

Angel’s Billabong.

If you’ve got extra time, consider visiting Crystal Bay (Google Maps). From there, you can take an easy, well-marked trail to the more secluded Pandan Beach (Google Maps) or Puyung Beach (Google Maps). These are great alternatives if you want to escape the crowds.

Crystal Bay.

How to Get to the Nusa Islands?

There are several daily fast boats from Sanur Port (Google Maps), heading either to Mushroom Bay Beach on Lembongan (Google Maps) or to Nusa Penida. Penida has two main ports: Penida Ferry Port (Google Maps) and Buyuk Harbour (Google Maps), which also offers direct connections to the Gili Islands.

There are also inter-island boats running between Yellow Bridge Port (Google Maps) and the area where snorkeling tours depart (Google Maps). Most speedboat operators can be booked independently through platforms like 12Go.

Where to Stay in Nusa Penida?

The hostel I stayed at on Nusa Lembongan seems to have closed, so I don’t have a recommendation there. But if you’re looking for a clean and budget-friendly hostel on Nusa Penida, I suggest Hostel Bukit Sangcure. It has fantastic views, super friendly staff (they’ll even pick you up from the harbor), and they offer good deals on snorkeling trips and speedboat tickets.

Pandan Beach.

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LOMBOK

Lombok, the island lying to the east of Bali, is much less developed and still relatively untouched by mass tourism—except for the three small islets to its northwest, the Gili Islands. Bali and Lombok are connected by both speedboats and ferries that run practically all day and night. If you’re willing to spend a bit more, it’s also worth checking out flights from Denpasar to Lombok International Airport, which, if booked in advance, can be quite affordable.

Gili Air.

Note: Just like in Bali, I highly recommend renting a scooter to explore Lombok. Depending on your plans, if you’re returning to Bali later, you could rent a scooter there and bring it with you on the ferry from Padang Bai (Google Maps). You can check schedules and book online—though at the time of writing, online payment required a local bank account. Still, plenty of agencies near the port can arrange bookings for a small fee.

If you’re planning to continue your trip to Flores or elsewhere (without returning to Bali), consider renting a scooter after you arrive in Lombok. There are rental shops both in Lembar (Google Maps)—where the public ferry arrives—and in Bangsal (Google Maps)—the port for speedboats and boats coming from the Gili Islands.

Gili Islands

This group of three small islands off northwest Lombok—Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno, and Gili Air—are considered Lombok’s top attraction and are frequently visited as part of a trip to Bali. That said, don’t expect a pristine paradise—mass tourism has definitely made its mark. Still, if you’re after a few relaxing days by the beach, the islands are a decent choice.

Gili Air.

What to See and Do in the Gili Islands

Each island has its own vibe:

  • Gili Trawangan is the most developed and is widely known as the “party island.” It’s the go-to for backpackers.
  • Gili Meno is the quietest, often preferred by couples and families.
  • Gili Air strikes a good balance between the two.

There aren’t many “must-see” attractions here—the highlight is simply enjoying the slow pace of island life. I joined the classic snorkeling tour, and while it wasn’t spectacular (the reefs near the islands are unfortunately in poor condition), it was still an enjoyable way to spend a few hours. The best thing to do on the Gili Islands is just relax, soak up the sun, read a good book, or sip on something cold while watching the waves.

There are no motorized vehicles on the islands, which makes them very walkable. Most people rent bicycles to get around, which is a pleasant and practical option.

Gili Meno.

Where to Sleep in the Gili Islands?

I stayed on Gili Air at Fantastic B”n”B—a solid budget option within walking distance of the harbor. The staff were kind and helpful, and the location was ideal.

How to Get to the Gili Islands?

You can get to the Gili Islands via direct speedboat connections from:

Most of these boats can be booked independently via 12Go.

From the Gili Islands, you can also take frequent local boats or speedboats to Bangsal Harbour (Google Maps), on the northern coast of Lombok.

Gili Air.

Kuta Lombok

Definitely not to be confused with Kuta in Bali, this laid-back town in southern Lombok is a favorite beach destination among backpackers. It’s known for its beautiful beaches and, above all, great surfing. Mass tourism hasn’t taken over yet, so the vibe remains relatively relaxed.

On the way to Kuta, you’ll pass by the traditional village of Sade (Google Maps). I didn’t stop there myself, but it could be an interesting visit if you’ve never experienced a Sasak village before.

What to Do and See in Kuta Lombok

Even though I don’t surf, it’s obvious the area is a surfer’s paradise — the waves attract people from all over the world, and there are plenty of surf schools. If you’re interested, just walk along the beach and you’ll be offered lessons in no time.

Surfisti a Pantai Tanjung Aan.

Beaches Around Kuta Lombok

There are dozens (if not hundreds) of beaches around Kuta, so seeing them all would be impossible. Here are my favorites among the ones I visited:

  • Pantai Tanjung Aan (Google Maps) A wide bay popular with surfers. The beach isn’t the most spectacular, but it’s well-equipped with restaurants, bars, and lounge chairs — perfect if you’re looking to chill with some amenities.
  • Nicole’s Monkey Beach (Google Maps) Hands down my favorite beach in the area. It’s a bit hidden and only accessible on foot via Bukit Merese (Google Maps), or at low tide along the cliff from Tanjung Aan. The bay is well-sheltered, making it great for swimming. There’s just one small bar/restaurant that also rents out beach chairs — the owner is incredibly friendly. Close by, Moha Beach (Google Maps)) is also worth visiting, especially at low tide when a natural pool forms.
  • Pantai Selong Belanak (Google Maps) This is the beach known for the water buffaloes that often stroll by at sunset. I didn’t see them myself, but the beach is lovely regardless. There’s a small IDR 10,000 fee for parking. If you’re hungry, Warung Corner (Google Maps) nearby serves excellent food. Two other nearby beaches often recommended are Pantai Semeti (Google Maps) and Pantai Mawi (Google Maps).

Nicole’s Monkey Beach.

Viewpoints in Kuta Lombok

The coastline here is rugged and beautiful, and there are several viewpoints that are worth the effort:

  • Bukit Seger (Google Maps) The closest to town, with a small IDR 10,000 entrance fee.
  • Bukit Merese (Google Maps) Located on the peninsula that also leads to Nicole’s Monkey Beach — a perfect spot for sunset. Also has a small parking fee.
  • Bukit Pedau (Google Maps) A quieter spot with no entrance or parking fees when I visited. You can park here (Google Maps) and then hike up a short trail.

Bukit Pedau.

Goa Bangkang and Goa Sumur

These are two caves just outside Kuta, located close to each other:

During the day, sunlight enters through roof openings, creating cool photo opportunities with beams of light. The entrance fee is around IDR 50,000. I gave them a miss, but they might be worth it.

Island Hopping to the “Secret Gilis”

In Kuta, you’ll see many tours offering day trips to the so-called “Secret Gilis” — a group of small islands near Lembar. Despite the name, they’re not exactly a secret anymore. I didn’t go myself, so I can’t comment directly, but it might make for a fun day trip.

Pantai Selong Belanak.

Where to Stay in Kuta Lombok?

I stayed at Gani Homestay a basic place slightly outside the main tourist zone. Nothing fancy, but it did the job. There are tons of budget guesthouses in the area, and if you’ve got a scooter, staying just outside town is quieter and often cheaper.

Recommended food spot: Kiena Warung (Google Maps) — inexpensive and super tasty local food.

How to Get to Kuta Lombok?

If you’re not riding a scooter, Perama offers affordable shuttle services. There’s also a network of shared taxis that connect most of the island’s tourist hubs — your guesthouse can usually help arrange one.

If you’re arriving at Lembar port, brace yourself for the usual hassle — the local taxi “mafia” tends to control prices there.

Pantai Selong Belanak.

Ekas

Ekas is a small village on the eastern side of the peninsula southeast of Lombok, but the name is often used to refer to the whole surrounding region. I haven’t been there myself, but it’s becoming increasingly popular among travelers looking to escape the typical tourist trail. From what I’ve heard, the area still feels wild and untouched, with a string of deserted beaches waiting to be explored.

Ekas is also significantly closer to Pink Beach (Google Maps) than Kuta Lombok. That said, the beach may not be as vibrantly pink as its name suggests. For more details, you can check out this article.

Tetebatu

Tetebatu is a peaceful village nestled on the southern slopes of Mount Rinjani, surrounded by rice paddies, waterfalls, and local charm. It’s the perfect place to relax for a couple of days and enjoy a slower pace of travel.

Tetebatu.

What to do and see in Tetebatu

If you’re interested in trekking Mount Rinjani, Tetebatu can serve as a base to hike up to the crater rim. This route is much less trafficked than the popular trails from Senaru and Sembalun, offering a more tranquil experience. Just note that from Tetebatu you can’t reach the summit—only the crater.

Trekking around Tetebatu

Most guesthouses offer guided trekking tours. Personally, I didn’t find them necessary, but if you prefer something organized, they’re a good option.

If you’re up for exploring on your own, there’s a lovely self-guided trail (All Trails) starting here (Google Maps). The route winds through rice fields and can be combined with visits to:

  • Big Waterfall (Google maps): dry in the dry season, but still good for a swim. Entry fee: IDR 10,000.
  • Tetebatu Waterfall (Google Maps): IDR 10,000 entry.
  • Monkey Forest (Google Maps): home to black monkeys. Entry: IDR 30,000.

Special transport in the monkey forest.

That said, there are unofficial side entrances where no one collects fees. For example, I came from Ima’s Café & Orchard (Google Maps)—which I also recommend—and parked here (Google Maps), where a collapsed bridge leads down into the forest.

Another waterfall often mentioned is Air Terjun Jeruk Manis (Google Maps), but be warned: reviews mention an aggressive “local mafia” that forces you to hire a guide for a steep price. Things may have changed, so it’s worth reading recent reviews, but I personally chose to skip it.

Black monkeys in the monkey forest.

Benang Stokel & Benang Kelambu Waterfalls

These two waterfalls—Benang Stokel and Benang Kelambu (Google Maps)—are some of Lombok’s most beautiful, and they’re just 40 minutes from Tetebatu. There are also two other waterfalls nearby, so it’s possible to visit four nice spots in one go.

Unfortunately, this site is also affected by pushy ticket vendors. Officially, entrance costs IDR 10,000, but foreigners are often funneled to an “information center” where inflated prices are charged depending on how many waterfalls you want to visit. They may even present you with “official-looking” tickets. When I asked to speak to a manager or see an ID, they said no one was available—so I walked in without paying. They weren’t thrilled, but didn’t stop me.

Be aware that others have reported more aggressive tactics, so your experience may vary. Regardless, a guide is completely unnecessary—the trail connecting the falls is straightforward and clearly marked on organic maps.

Benang Kelambu.

Getting to Tetebatu?

If you’re not riding a scooter, you can rely on Lombok’s network of shared taxis that shuttle between major tourist areas. Any guesthouse can help you arrange a transfer.

Where to Stay in Tetebatu?

I recommend Tetebatu Sama Sama Bungalows —a lovely place surrounded by nature, complete with a swimming pool and breakfast included.

Benang Stokel.

Sembalun Lawang

Sembalun is a village nestled at the foot of Mount Rinjani, offering stunning views and an ideal base for those looking to climb the volcano’s summit.

What to do and see in Sembalun Lawang

Bukit Selong

Bukit Selong (Google Maps) is a small hill that overlooks the picturesque rice fields of Sembalun Lawang. It’s just a short 10-minute walk from the parking lot (Google Maps) to the top. The spot is especially recommended at sunset. Watch out for monkeys. Entry is IDR 10,000. I didn’t visit myself, but there’s also a small reconstructed traditional village nearby (Google Maps) if you’re curious.

Bukit Selong.

Pergasingan Hill

Pergasingan Hill (Google Maps) offers panoramic views over the valley’s rice fields and the towering Mount Rinjani. You can park right at the trailhead (Google Maps). The GPS track is available on (All Trails). The hike isn’t long but is quite steep and unrelenting; at a steady pace, it took me just under an hour to reach the popular camping area. I hiked up early to catch the sunrise (highly recommended!), so no one was at the entrance to collect a fee, but typically it’s IDR 10,000 for locals and IDR 25,000 for foreigners. The view from the top is absolutely worth the effort.

View from Pergasingan Hill.

Climbing Mount Rinjani from Sembalun Lawang

The trail from Sembalun is the shortest route to the summit of Mount Rinjani. Here’s a map that shows the three main trails on the north side of the volcano—from Sembalun, Torean, and Senaru—so you can better understand the layout.

The summit hike usually takes two days: on day one you climb up to the crater rim where you’ll camp for the night, and on day two you make the early-morning push to the summit before descending back to Sembalun.

After some tough bargaining with Bukit Senaru Homestay, I paid IDR 1.4 million all-inclusive (which covered transport to and from Senaru, where I met a friend coming from the Gili Islands). You can definitely arrange everything directly in Sembalun as well. It’s an incredibly scenic trek, but not something to take lightly. Even though it’s spread over two days, it involves 2,800 meters of elevation gain, with the summit reaching 3,726 meters (All Trails). It’s not exactly a walk in the park.

Be prepared: the section from the crater to the summit is often exposed to strong winds, and the trail—made up of loose volcanic ash and scree—can be very slippery. Unfortunately, the state of the trail and campsites is also quite depressing, with a lot of litter, toilet paper, and even human waste along the way.

Rinjani view from Pergasingan Hill.

Where to sleep in Sembalun Lawang?

I stayed at Tresno Sembalun Rinjani, one of the more budget-friendly options. The rooms are pretty basic and nothing special, but totally fine for a night. The staff was very friendly and helpful.

How to get to Sembalun Lawang?

If you’re not traveling by scooter, there’s a network of shared taxis across Lombok that connect major tourist spots. Any guesthouse can help you arrange a transfer.

Sembalun Lawang fields.

Senaru

As mentioned earlier, Senaru is another popular village used as a base to organize treks to Mount Rinjani—especially for those who only plan to reach the crater rather than the summit. It’s also a great place to spend a couple of days unwinding and exploring nearby waterfalls.

What to do and see in Senaru

Senaru doesn’t have much to offer beyond the waterfalls and Rinjani trekking, but if you have some extra time, you can also visit the traditional village (Google Maps) and the coffee plantations, which include a viewpoint overlooking Tiu Kelep waterfall (Google Maps).

Mount Rinjani crater.

Waterfalls in Senaru

Just outside the village lie two beautiful waterfalls that are well worth a visit: Sendang Gile (Google Maps) and Tiu Kelep (Google Maps). There are two entrances—Gate 1 and Gate 2 (Google Maps) (Google Maps); either one is fine, so choose based on where you’re staying. The entrance fee is IDR 20,000.

They’ll probably ask if you want a guide, but it’s absolutely not necessary. The trail is easy to follow and well-marked on apps like Organic Maps. If you can, try to go early in the morning—especially on weekends—when the area gets busy with local tourists.

Tiu Kelep.

Trekking Mount Rinjani from Senaru

As mentioned, Sembalun is the better starting point if you want to reach the actual summit of Mount Rinjani. Senaru, on the other hand, is the more popular option for those content with hiking to the crater. For reference, here’s the map again showing the three main trails from Sembalun, Torean, and Senaru.

The typical itinerary from Senaru is a three-day, two-night trek:

  • Day 1: Hike up to the crater rim and camp overnight.
  • Day 2: Optional sunrise hike to Mount Sangkareang (also called the “Second Summit”), then descend to the crater lake and camp near the hot springs (Google Maps).
  • Day 3: Descend via the Torean trail.

While this route is less intense than going to the true summit, it’s still not easy—the first day alone involves around 2,000 meters of elevation gain.

Base Camp.

If you’re short on time or not interested in camping, another great option is the day hike to the crater: you start hiking in the middle of the night, reach the crater for sunrise, and then descend back to Senaru. It’s the same route described on this (All Trails) page. I met someone who paid just IDR 500,000 for this option through Bukit Senaru Homestay.

In the end, these are just the most common itineraries—there’s a lot of flexibility. Some people go all-out and do a “grand tour,” climbing to the summit from Sembalun and descending via Senaru and the hot springs, or the other way around. There’s something for every level and preference.

Mount Rinjani summit.

Where to sleep in Senaru?

As mentioned, I stayed at Bukit Senaru Homestay. The room was simple but decent, and they offer trekking packages to Rinjani at very competitive prices.

How to get to Senaru?

If you’re coming from the Gili Islands, once you land at Bangsal Harbor (Google Maps), you can usually find a shared taxi or a minivan headed toward Senaru. Be ready to bargain hard, though—it’s probably easier to have your guesthouse arrange the transfer. Another option is renting a scooter to explore Lombok on your own and return it before heading back to Bali or taking a boat to Flores.

If you’re coming from anywhere else on Lombok, the best option is to book one of the well-known shared taxis through your accommodation.

Mount Rinjani crater.

Senggigi

Senggigi refers to the coastal area north of Mataram, which includes the village of the same name. It’s by far the most commercialized and developed part of Lombok, filled with hotels and restaurants catering to Western tourists. That said, it’s still Lombok—the overall vibe remains relatively laid-back and quiet.

What to do and see in Senggigi

To be honest, I didn’t find Senggigi particularly exciting. Apart from spending a few relaxing days on the beach, there isn’t much else to do. The main beach, Senggigi Beach (Google Maps), is decent—nothing too special, but not bad either.

If you’re looking for better beaches, I recommend heading north to Nipah Beach (Google Maps) and Pantai Pandanan (Google Maps). The coastal road in that direction is also worth the ride, offering several scenic viewpoints—one of the most famous being Malimbu Hill (Google Maps).

Senggigi Beach.

Where to sleep in Senggigi?

I stayed one night at Mugeni Homestay, which offered excellent value for money.

How to get to Senggigi?

If you’re not traveling by scooter, Lombok has a network of shared taxis that connect the main tourist destinations. Any guesthouse can help arrange a transfer.

Sunset at Senggigi Beach.

SUMBAWA

Sumbawa is definitely an island that sees very few tourists. Most travelers skip it altogether, going straight from Lombok to Flores to visit the famous Komodo National Park. I had planned to explore Sumbawa in 2023 but had to change my itinerary along the way. That said, I had done quite a bit of research, and the island seemed to offer more than a few interesting destinations.

Unfortunately, I can’t speak from personal experience, but if you’re looking for a destination still off the beaten path and you have time to spare, traveling overland from Lombok to Flores via Sumbawa could be a really rewarding experience. There’s a guide on Travelfish that covers the island, and this one (not very detailed, but still useful) might help as well.

FLORES

For many travelers, Flores is almost synonymous with Komodo—the famous national park, home to the Komodo dragons and some of the best diving spots in the world. And sure, Komodo is absolutely worth it—a little paradise on earth. But the island itself has much more to offer.

The weeks I spent crossing Flores by scooter from Labuan Bajo to Maumere were among the best of all my travels. Flores is an island waiting to be discovered: still far from mass tourism, yet developed enough to offer decent accommodations and infrastructure.

Deer in Komodo National Park.

Labuan Bajo

Labuan Bajo is the port town that serves as the main gateway to Komodo National Park. Every possible tour into the park can be arranged from here, so it’s the place where most travelers base themselves before heading out.

What to Do and See in Labuan Bajo

Labuan Bajo itself doesn’t have a lot going on, but if you have a few spare hours, you might want to visit Rangko Cave (Google Maps), known for its natural saltwater pool that lights up beautifully in the early afternoon when sunlight enters through an opening in the rock. To get there, you’ll need to hire a boat here (Google Maps). Expect to pay IDR 100,000–200,000 depending on how well you negotiate and how many people are in your group, plus another IDR 50,000 for cave entrance.

Komodo National Park.

Komodo National Park

Many travelers choose to explore the park by joining a multi-day boat tour between Lombok and Labuan Bajo (or vice versa). Multiple companies run these tours, and while the details vary slightly, the basic 4-day/3-night itinerary is pretty standard.

I took the tour with Kareem the Explorer in “Deck Class”—not exactly luxury, but it got the job done and I have no major complaints. Other companies offering similar trips include Wanua Adventure, Green Rinjani and Travel Wise.

Pink Beach.

Here’s a rough outline of what to expect:

  • Day 1: Short stop at Pulau Kenawa (Google Maps).
  • Day 2: Morning visit to see whale sharks (note: they feed them, which I personally found sad—I didn’t get in the water), followed by a long day of sailing. If the sea is rough, brace yourself—it’s not fun.
  • Days 3–4 (Komodo Park): These were definitely the highlight. We saw Komodo dragons (Google Maps), relaxed at the beautiful Pink Beach (Google Maps), snorkeled in pristine waters, and ended with sunset at the iconic Pulau Padar (Google Maps).

Pulau Padar.

Alternatively, you can fly into Labuan Bajo and book a one- or multi-day tour into the park from there. Many people take the boat from Lombok mainly for budget reasons—surprisingly, the tour doesn’t cost much more than just a flight from Lombok to Labuan Bajo. If you go Labuan Bajo → Lombok, you might even pay less since that direction sees lower demand. The boats have to return anyway, so they’re often open to negotiation.

Komodo Dragon.

Diving in Komodo

If you’re certified, do not miss the chance to dive—Komodo is one of the best diving spots in the world. I did three fun dives with Uber Uber Scuba Komodo (Google Maps) and had a fantastic experience: professional and friendly staff, a very comfortable boat, delicious food—and they accept Wise, which makes payment super easy. If you’re not registered on Wise yet, using this link gets you a fee-free transfer up to €500.

Other recommended dive shops:

If you’re looking for a budget liveaboard, a good friend recommended Wunderpus Liveaboard.

Where to Sleep in Labuan Bajo?

I stayed at Bajo Nature Backpackers—a great hostel in a central location with very nice staff. Definitely recommended.

How to Reach Labuan Bajo?

Most travelers get here either:

  • By boat tour from Lombok
  • Or by plane from Bali (daily flights available)

Another option is flying to Maumere and crossing Flores overland to Labuan Bajo, then taking the boat to Lombok from there. Lastly, Labuan Bajo is also connected by ferry to Sulawesi, if you’re heading that way.

Swimming with whale sharks.

How to Get Around Flores

Before diving into all the things to see and do in Flores, it’s worth taking a moment to talk about how to get around the island, especially if you’re following the classic route between Labuan Bajo and Maumere (or vice versa).

Getting Around Flores by Scooter or Motorcycle

This is the option I personally chose and highly recommend to anyone looking for flexibility and a bit of adventure. The Trans-Flores Highway has recently been upgraded and is now in great condition. Traffic is generally light, making it an enjoyable ride overall. However, be aware that secondary roads are often in poor shape—nothing impossible, but it’s definitely helpful to have some prior experience riding two-wheelers.

If you want to rent a scooter in Labuan Bajo and return it in Maumere (or the other way around), you currently have two options:

  • The cheaper option is run by Marian, whom you can find at Divers Paradise Komodo in Labuan Bajo (Google Maps). He collaborates with Lena House (Google Maps) just outside Maumere. When I was there, they charged IDR 100,000 per day, a refundable IDR 400,000 deposit, and an additional IDR 400,000 for the one-way return. If you’re carrying a lot of luggage, you can arrange to have some of it transported separately.
  • The pricier option is offered by Motor Adventure Bali (Google Maps). I had to go with them because Marian didn’t have any scooters available. Check their official website for up-to-date prices, but expect to pay significantly more. On the upside, the scooters are in better condition, insurance is available, and they accept credit cards. It’s a very different, more premium type of service.

Mount Inierie.

Hiring a Private Driver in Flores

Similar to what you’ll find in Sumatra, many travelers—especially families or small groups—opt to hire a private driver. It’s definitely a convenient way to get around, but it’s also the most expensive. Expect to pay at least €30–40 per day, plus fuel. Most guesthouses will be able to provide reliable contacts for drivers.

Public Transportation in Flores

Your final option is a mix of public transport and shared taxis. While you’ll almost certainly still need to rent a scooter locally to explore some areas or join tours, public transport is a perfectly viable option for longer distances. You’ll find the usual crowded local minivans and shared taxis, as well as the more comfortable Gunung Mas minibuses, which can be booked via WhatsApp. Guesthouses are usually happy to help you make a reservation, show you where to catch the bus, or even arrange pickup in some cases.

Wae Rebo.

Wae Rebo

Wae Rebo (Google Maps) is the most famous traditional village on Flores—possibly even in all of Indonesia. Perched over 1,000 meters above sea level and surrounded by lush valleys and forests, its scenic beauty and distinctive traditional houses make it a truly iconic destination. That said, in my opinion, it has lost some of its authenticity over the years and now feels more like a commercial attraction. Still, it’s absolutely worth a visit if you come with the right expectations.

I arrived just before noon and had a peaceful experience—played some volleyball with locals, had a few conversations, and soaked in the atmosphere. But in the afternoon, large groups of tourists began to show up, and by evening it felt like there were more visitors than residents. At least that was my impression.

The Hike to Wae Rebo

Getting to Wae Rebo involves an easy hike of just under two hours along a well-maintained trail, which starts here (Google Maps). You do not need a guide for this hike—it’s straightforward and even listed on All Trails.

If you plan to spend the night in the village, the cost is IDR 350,000, which includes dinner and breakfast. If you’re only visiting for the day and heading back down, you’ll be asked to pay a contribution of IDR 50,000.

Optional Side Trip: Mules Island

From the village at the foot of Wae Rebo, you can arrange excursions to nearby Mules Island (Google Maps). I didn’t visit personally, so I can’t offer details, but it’s something to consider if you have more time.

Wae Rebo.

Where to Stay?

Since I left Labuan Bajo in the late afternoon, I spent the night at Parle Zo Cottage (Google Maps) and hiked up to Wae Rebo the following morning. Another commonly recommended place to stay nearby is Wae Rebo Lodge (Google Maps).

How to Reach Wae Rebo?

If you’re coming from Labuan Bajo by scooter, be aware that the coastal road is in very poor condition—unless things have improved recently. As far as I know, there’s no public transportation that goes all the way to the starting point of the hike. However, since it’s not too far from Labuan Bajo, you can easily join an organized tour or find other travelers to share a private car or taxi with.

Wae Rebo.

Ruteng

Before arriving in Ruteng, you have the option to stop at Todo, a traditional village (Google Maps). I didn’t go myself, but the entrance fee is IDR 100,000. According to reviews, several travelers found it a bit inauthentic, so keep that in mind.

Ruteng rice terraces.

What to Do and See in Ruteng

There’s not much to see in Ruteng town itself. The only real “attraction” is Ruteng Puu (Google Maps), a traditional village within the city, but reviews are generally poor. Since I was coming straight from Wae Rebo, I skipped it.

That said, it only takes a few minutes outside the center to enjoy scenic views. Sun Rice Homestay organizes a sunrise walk through the rice fields every morning—but even without joining, you can stop along the road here to take in the landscape (Google Maps) (Google Maps).

Sunrise with Sun Rice Homestay.

If you have a full day, you can explore Ruteng’s surroundings. While the roads aren’t perfect, they’re not terrible either.

Start with Liang Bua, better known as the Hobbit Cave (Google Maps). This is where Homo floresiensis was discovered—an extinct species of small-statured human (about 1 meter tall) that lived between 100,000 and 50,000 years ago. There’s also a small museum next to the cave (Google Maps). There’s not a lot to see, but entrance is just IDR 20,000.

From there, you could continue to Air Terjun Pangkadari waterfall (Google Maps). I didn’t go, as the road is reportedly in bad condition and the trail is unmarked—you’ll need a local guide and be prepared for about an hour’s walk.

Hobbit cave.

Instead, I visited Air Terjun Tengkulese waterfall (Google Maps). You’ll need to park here (Google Maps), and the turn-off is located here (Google Maps). They charge IDR 10,000 for parking and will offer you a guide, but I declined and had no issues. The trail is easy, and the waterfall is beautiful. When I visited, there were only a few local kids around.

Air Terjun Tengkulese.

Lastly, don’t miss the famous Lingko Spider Web Rice Fields (Google Maps). As the name suggests, these fields resemble a spider web when viewed from above—a unique layout resulting from traditional land division practices. I flew my drone from the roadside, but if you want a proper viewpoint, head here (Google Maps), where locals charge IDR 20,000.

Lingko Spider Web.

Where to Stay in Ruteng?

I stayed at Sun Rice Homestay, and highly recommend it. The owner and his family are incredibly kind and helpful. Breakfast is included, and you can join them for a homemade dinner at a very fair price—definitely one of the warmest stays I had.

Another popular option is Chacha Homestay & Dormitory, known among travelers not just for accommodation but also for its restaurant.

How to Reach Ruteng?

If you don’t have your own vehicle, Ruteng is one of the towns served by Gunung Mas minibuses. Ask your guesthouse to help book a spot or arrange pickup.

Lingko Spider Web.

Bajawa

Before reaching Bajawa, some people recommend stopping at Lake Ranamese (Danau Ranamese) (Google Maps), but the owner of my guesthouse told me it’s not worth it—mainly because foreigners are charged IDR 100,000. So I skipped it. Two other popular stops along the way are Cepi Watu Beach (Google Maps) and Liang Bala Beach (Google Maps), but I wasn’t in the mood for beaches. Plus, reviews mention quite a bit of trash, so I drove straight through without stopping.

Sunrise from the top of Mount Inerie.

What to Do and See in Bajawa

There’s not much going on in the town itself. Like Ruteng, Bajawa is mostly just a great base for exploring the surrounding area.

Traditional Villages

Bajawa is surrounded by traditional villages of the Ngada people. The most famous is Bena (Google Maps), believed to be over a thousand years old. Unlike other reconstructed villages, people actually live in Bena, which makes it feel a bit more authentic. Entrance fee is IDR 25,000.

From there, you can continue to Gurusina (Google Maps)—it’s pretty much empty and has a slightly eerie vibe. They ask for a donation at the entrance. If you’re up for it, you can hike or drive to Tololela (Google Maps), but the road is in rough condition. I gave up partway and turned around.

Bena village.

Viewpoints

There are plenty of viewpoints overlooking Mount Inerie:

  • Wolobobo Viewpoint is accessible by car or scooter and is a popular sunset spot (Google Maps).
  • Manulalu Panorama is part of a restaurant—perfect for lunch after visiting the villages or hot springs (Google Maps).
  • Bukit Avatar Langa (Google Maps) is reached via a short (and occasionally exposed) trail starting from this parking spot (Google Maps). Entry costs IDR 20,000.

Wolobobo Viewpoint.

Mount Inerie

Due to bad weather, I had to delay the hike a few times, but summiting Mount Inerie at sunrise became a personal mission—and it was absolutely worth it!

The hike offers stunning 360° views. You don’t need a guide; just leave your scooter at the trailhead (Google Maps) and follow the GPS track on All Trails. The trail starts through someone’s backyard and has a few confusing forks, but it’s not hard to follow, even in the dark. If you’d rather have help or don’t have a scooter, your guesthouse can arrange a guide or transport.

Sunrise from the summit.

Hot Springs

After the sunrise hike, you’ll want to relax—and Bajawa’s hot springs are perfect for that:

  • Manalage Hot Springs (Google Maps) lie where a hot and a cold stream meet, so the temperature constantly changes—a really unique, natural experience. Entrance: IDR 20,000.
  • On the way to Riung, you’ll find the Soa Mengeruda Hot Springs (Google Maps). The facilities are a bit run-down, but the pools are still nice. Just avoid visiting during the heat of the day—it gets uncomfortably hot. Entry is also IDR 20,000.

Bonus: Waterfall

I also visited Air Terjun Ogi (Google Maps). The waterfall itself is decent, but you can’t swim there, and a small dam at the base takes away from the natural vibe—not a must-see, in my opinion.

Manalage Hot Springs.

Where to Stay in Bajawa?

I stayed in three different guesthouses during my two visits:

All of them were good value for money, and I’d recommend any of them.

How to Get to Bajawa?

If you’re not driving yourself, Bajawa is served by Gunung Mas minibuses. Your guesthouse can help you arrange transport or reserve a seat.

Soa Mengeruda Hot Springs.

Riung

Riung is a destination often skipped by travelers exploring Flores. Most people head straight from Bajawa to Moni, but if you have a bit of extra time, I think it’s absolutely worth spending a couple of days here.

The main reason to visit Riung is the 17 Islands Marine Park (Google Maps), a protected area made up of—you guessed it—seventeen islands. Boat tours are the standard way to explore, but if you prefer more flexibility, you can arrange a private trip and tailor it to your interests.

Nunsa Bampa.

In my case, we visited the fruit bat colony (Google Maps), did some snorkeling, had lunch at Nunsa Bampa (Google Maps), snorkeled a bit more, and finished the day at Nunsa Rutong (Google Maps), where you can either hike up to a viewpoint or just relax on the beach. Everything was beautiful, and there were very few other tourists around.

Most guesthouses work with local boat captains and can organize the tour for you. Alternatively, you can head directly to the dock or contact one of the “agencies” listed on Google Maps near the harbor, like ADAM BOAT RIUNG (Google Maps), Darno Boat Trip (Google Maps), and so on. I booked through my guesthouse and paid IDR 300,000 all-inclusive.

Just outside Riung, there’s a lovely viewpoint at Watu Mitong Riung (Google Maps), reachable via a short trail.

Watu Mitong Riung.

Where to Stay in Riung?

I spent a couple of nights at Riung Guesthouse. Not that I had much of a choice—booking only a few days ahead in the middle of August, it was the only place with availability. That said, I had a great stay: nice accommodation and friendly, helpful staff.

How to Get to Riung?

As far as I know, there’s no public transportation between Riung and Bajawa. Every traveler I spoke with who didn’t have their own vehicle arrived by shared taxi arranged through their guesthouse.

If you’re riding a scooter, be aware that the road connecting Riung directly to Bajawa is in poor condition in some spots—some people even advise against using it. Personally, I didn’t think it was that bad. In fact, I took it twice to return to Bajawa and climb Mt. Inerie, instead of taking the coastal road to Ende.

Fruit bat colony.

Ende

Ende is the second-largest city in Flores and, to be honest, doesn’t have much to offer—but it can be a convenient stop if you want to break up the journey between Riung and Moni. It’s also the departure point for the direct ferry to Sumba, and there are flights from here to Labuan Bajo and Kupang in Timor.

A possible detour just outside town is Pantai Batu Biru (Google Maps), which means “Blue Stone Beach.” Unfortunately, the distinctive blue stones have now been almost entirely removed for commercial sale. Even driving past, you’ll see large piles of them stacked for transport.

Where to Stay in Ende?

I spent one night at the Apollo Capsule Hotel to break up the trip to Moni, and another before catching the ferry to Sumba. It’s a classic capsule-style hotel—clean, affordable, and a solid choice. Recommended.

17 Islands National Park.

Moni

Moni is a small village along the Trans-Flores Highway, located at the foot of the Kelimutu volcano.

What to See and Do in Moni

Kelimutu National Park

Kelimutu National Park is undoubtedly the main attraction in Moni. The three crater lakes at the summit of the volcano offer a truly breathtaking view. That said, there isn’t much else to do within the park itself. There’s just one short trail from the parking area that leads to several viewpoints—but the scenery alone makes the visit more than worthwhile.

The park opens early in the morning, allowing visitors to catch the sunrise from the top. If you have your own vehicle, you can simply drive up—the road is in excellent condition. Alternatively, you can join a “guided tour,” which usually only includes transportation. The best viewpoint for seeing all three lakes is here (Google Maps), which is also the end point of the trail marked on Organic Maps.

Sunrise from the summit.

After seeing the sunrise, I returned later in the afternoon (just keep your ticket), and during the week at least, there was barely anyone else around. The color of the lakes changes throughout the day depending on the light, so it’s worth going back at a different time.

Entrance to the park costs IDR 150,000 on weekdays and IDR 225,000 on weekends. The official entrance is here (Google Maps) along the road that leads up to the volcano. I was told that if you go to the village of Pemo, you can take a path from this point (Google Maps), also marked on Organic Maps, that climbs up to the volcano—potentially allowing you to skip the entrance fee.

Kelimutu National Park.

Hot Springs

There are at least a couple of hot springs around Moni. At Air Panas Liasembe (Google Maps), concrete pools have been built, which locals use for bathing and daily washing. Hygiene here isn’t the best, but if you’re after a truly local experience, visit in the evening—I was literally the only foreigner there.

If you’re looking for something more natural, I recommend Kolorongo Hot Spring (Google Maps), which is located in the middle of rice fields. The pool is small and not very deep, but the setting is beautiful.

Waterfalls

Air Terjun Murundao (Google Maps) is located right in the middle of town. The entrance fee is IDR 5,000. It’s nothing extraordinary, but it’s still a decent spot for a refreshing dip.

In my opinion, Air Terjun Murukeba (Google Maps) is much more scenic. You can’t swim here, but the surroundings are very picturesque, and when I visited, I had the place entirely to myself. The trail starts here (Google Maps) along the road—you’ll need to walk up along the irrigation canal. The path isn’t always clear, but it’s mapped on Organic Maps, so you shouldn’t have any trouble. There are also some fumaroles nearby (Google Maps).

Air Terjun Murukeba.

Where to Stay in Moni?

I spent a couple of nights at Moni Mahalika. The rooms were spacious, and it’s located far enough from the main road that you don’t hear traffic noise. Recommended.

How to Reach Moni?

If you don’t have your own vehicle, Moni is located along the Trans-Flores Highway and should be served by Gunung Mas minibuses. If you’re coming from Bajawa, you may need to transfer in Ende.

Fumaroles near the waterfall.

Koka Beach

Koka Beach, or Pantai Koka (Google Maps), is a beautiful beach located roughly halfway between Moni and Maumere. It’s a relatively popular stop for organized tours, which often pause here for lunch and a short break before continuing on. But if you have some time to spare and you’re looking for a place to unwind, it’s well worth a longer stay.

The beach is especially peaceful in the mornings and evenings, when day-trippers have come and gone—not that it ever gets too crowded here in Indonesia anyway. The only exception might be weekends, when there’s a bit more local tourism.

Koka Beach.

Where to Stay at Koka Beach?

I stayed right on the beach at Koka Beach Homestay by Blasius Woda (Google Maps). The bungalows are quite basic, but not bad at all. The couple who also run the small beachfront restaurant are incredibly friendly, and the food is delicious.

How to Reach Koka Beach?

If you don’t have your own vehicle, you can get dropped off along the Trans-Flores Highway, then either take a mototaxi or just walk—the beach is less than 2 km away.

Along the Trans-Flores Highway.

Maumere

Maumere is the capital of Flores and the largest city on the island. It’s honestly not a particularly interesting destination in itself, but it does have an airport with several daily flights to Bali and other hubs—so it makes a convenient starting or ending point for a trip around Flores.

That said, the city itself doesn’t offer much, so I wouldn’t recommend spending too much time there. However, there are a few nearby attractions that might be worth checking out. I didn’t go myself, but day trips to Pulau Koja Doi (Google Maps), Pulau Pangabatang (Google Maps), and Pulau Babi (Google Maps) are fairly popular—apparently the snorkeling is quite good. Most guesthouses can help arrange these tours.

If you do decide to spend a few days in the area, you’re probably better off staying near Hitokalak, where you’ll find several guesthouses within walking distance of the beach—like Lena House and Sunset Cottages—as well as dive centers such as Santai Divers Maumere and HAPPY DIVE RETREAT. You could also consider a trip to Mount Egon (Google Maps) for a bit of hiking and a view of the surrounding landscape.

Where to Stay in Maumere?

I stayed at Guest House Dorm Floressa. Nothing exceptional, but if you’re just looking for something cheap for one night, it does the job. As mentioned, if you plan to stay longer, it’s better to stay east of town, in places like Lena House or Sunset Cottages.

How to Reach Maumere?

As noted above, Maumere has an airport with several daily flights to Labuan Bajo, Bali, and Kupang in Timor. There are also direct buses and shared taxis that go at least as far as Bajawa. In my case, to get back to Ende for the ferry to Sumba, I booked a shared taxi through my guesthouse.

17 Islands National Park.

SUMBA

Sumba, the island located just south of Flores, is one of the least touristy places I’ve visited in all my travels. If you truly want to get off the beaten track in Indonesia—and experience an island that’s still wild, little-known, and largely untouched—Sumba might be for you.

Sumba.

Getting Around Sumba

Before diving into what to do and see, it’s worth saying a few words about how to get around the island—because public transport, aside from a few routes between major towns, is pretty much nonexistent.

Sumba by Scooter or Motorbike

Unless you hire a private driver, sooner or later you’ll need to rent a scooter to explore the island. What I did—and what I recommend to anyone who wants maximum freedom and a dash of adventure—is to divide Sumba into three sections: eastern, central, and western. In each section, rent a scooter, explore the area, return the scooter, and then use public transport to travel east or west to your next base. The three best hubs for this are Waingapu, Waikabubak, and Tambolaka, respectively.

The main roads have improved a lot in recent years and are generally in good condition. Plus, traffic is minimal, so driving is fairly relaxed. On the other hand, secondary roads—including access to many beaches and waterfalls—are often rough. Nothing unmanageable, but it’s definitely helpful to have at least basic experience riding a scooter.

In Waingapu, I rented from Muruhumba Trans (Instagram). You can find their WhatsApp number on their profile. The young couple who run it speak excellent English and were super helpful with tips—really lovely people. They delivered the scooter to my hotel and picked it up again at no extra charge. I paid IDR 150,000/day for a brand-new Yamaha Fazzio.

In Waikabubak, I rented directly from the guesthouse. The scooter was in rough shape, but they only charged IDR 100,000/day, which is considered a good deal for Sumba.

In Tambolaka, I rented from Arinka Scooter Rental Sumba (Google Maps)—a 2015 Honda Vario in good condition for IDR 200,000/day. Their office is right outside the airport, so you can pick up and return the scooter when you arrive or depart. You can reach them via WhatsApp (number listed on Google Maps). Another option nearby is Afiv Rent Car, Tour & Adventure Sumba (Google Maps). They also have good reviews, but their prices tend to be higher.

Along the roads of Sumba.

Private Driver in Sumba

As in Sumatra and Flores, many travelers—especially families and those on organized tours—choose to hire a private driver. It’s definitely the most convenient and stress-free option, but also the most expensive.

Most guesthouses can provide reliable contacts if you’re interested, or you can reach out directly to the services mentioned above. Muruhumba Trans (Instagram) and Afiv Rent Car (Google Maps) both offer this kind of service. Alternatively, a Google Maps search for “rental mobil” will turn up several options. If you’re comfortable behind the wheel, self-driving is also possible—but personally, I’d think twice.

Public Transport in Sumba

As mentioned earlier, public transport in Sumba is extremely limited. Aside from the main road connecting Waingapu, Waikabubak, and Tambolaka, there’s little to no public transportation elsewhere on the island.

Waingapu (East Sumba)

Waingapu is the main town in eastern Sumba. It has daily air connections to Bali and ferry links to Ende on Flores, making it a convenient arrival or departure point. While Waingapu itself doesn’t offer much in terms of tourist attractions, it can serve as a good base for exploring the surrounding area.

Kampung Raja Prailiu

The only real point of interest in town is Kampung Raja Prailiu (Google Maps), where you’ll find dozens of traditional houses and some megalithic structures.

The Dancing Trees of Sumba

About 30 minutes from Waingapu, at Pantai Walakiri (Google Maps), you’ll find Sumba’s iconic dancing trees. These wind-sculpted mangroves are a surreal sight, especially at high tide when they appear to float on the water. The beach is also quite pleasant. The best photo spot is slightly away from the main beach—this is the exact location I used (Google Maps).

Sumba’s iconic dancing trees.

Puru Kambera Beach, Tanggedu Waterfall, and Wunga Village

West of Waingapu lies Pantai Puru Kambera (Google Maps), a beautiful, largely deserted beach. From here, head inland toward Air Terjun Tanggedu (Google Maps), a picturesque waterfall with inviting natural pools—perfect for a swim. Entrance fee: IDR 25,000.

Pantai Puru Kambera.

On the way, stop at Savana Puru Kambera (Google Maps) for sweeping views of the surrounding grasslands. The road to the waterfall is rough—basically a dirt path. You can:

  • Ride a scooter all the way if you’re confident
  • Walk the last 20 minutes
  • Or take a mototaxi (around IDR 50,000)

You could also detour to Kampung Adat Wunga (Google Maps), considered the oldest traditional village in Sumba. I skipped it—there didn’t seem to be much to see, and the distance didn’t justify it.

Air Terjun Tanggedu.

The Green Hills of Sumba

The landscape around Waingapu is known for its lush, rolling hills—especially vibrant during the rainy season. I visited during the dry season, so the scenery wasn’t at its best. I only made it to Bukit Tanau (Google Maps) just outside town. Other scenic hilltops include:

The last two are along the road to Tarimbang and Waikabubak. Depending on your route, a short detour could be worthwhile. Check recent reviews—some of these roads are in very poor condition.

Pantai Tarimbang

Tarimbang Beach (Google Maps) is one of the most stunning beaches I’ve ever seen—a wide bay with white sand, crystal-clear water, and jungle rolling down to the sea. Still largely untouched by tourism, it’s a true hidden gem.

Pantai Tarimbang.

While some visit on a day trip from Waingapu, I strongly recommend staying at least one night. It’s over two hours away on a rough road.

Accommodation:

  • Marthen Homestay (Google Maps), (official site) – I stayed here for a few nights. Basic bungalows, but the ones with private bathrooms are nicer. Book via WhatsApp.
  • Camp Tarimbang (official site) – A pricier but more polished option, recently opened by a friendly German expat I met on the beach.

The beach is perfect for relaxing, though you can also arrange hikes or boat trips to nearby coves, or explore Kabubul and Laputi waterfalls (Google Maps) (Google Maps).

Pantai Tarimbang.

Wai Marang Waterfall & Southeast Sumba

Wai Marang Waterfall (Google Maps) is a two-hour ride from Waingapu. Though the waterfall itself is modest, the turquoise pool at its base—set in lush forest—is magical.

The final stretch of road is rough. Once you arrive at the parking area, there’s no guide needed—the trail is well-marked and visible on Organic Maps.

Wai Marang Waterfall.

I left Waingapu in the afternoon and stayed overnight at Purnama Kasih Homestay (Google Maps) – Simple local stay. The shop next door acts as the “reception.” For more comfort, check out Ecoresort Sumba Dream (official site), much more expensive but offers Western-style amenities.

Kampung Adat Praiyawang.

The next day, I continued to the southern tip of the island, stopping briefly at Kampung Adat Praiyawang (Google Maps). I then spent a few quiet days at Sumba Adventure Resort—I was the only guest. The area is even more remote, with endless empty beaches and deep tranquility.

Other accommodation options nearby:

Before COVID, Sumba Adventure Resort offered diving, fishing, and more, but tourism was so low during my stay that everything was on hold. I just read books on the beach. You can also make a trip out to Pantai Watuparunu (Google Maps).

Beach in front of Sumba Adventure Resort.

Where to Sleep in Waingapu?

I stayed at Hotel Jemmy (Google Maps)—basic, cheap, and mostly frequented by locals. Nearby is a nice restaurant I returned to multiple times: Timoer Cafe (Google Maps).

Other options with more Western comforts (yet still affordable):

How to Reach Waingapu?

From Waingapu Harbor (Google Maps), you can take a ferry to Ende Harbor on Flores (Google Maps). I arrived this way. At the time of writing, you need a local bank account to book online—but you can buy tickets in person at the ticket office (Google Maps).

From Waingapu Airport, there are daily flights to and from Bali.

To/from Waikabubak, my guesthouse booked me a spot with Travel Sinar Lombok (Instagram)—a minivan service. They picked me up directly. Alternatively, you can go to the bus terminal (Google Maps), where it’s usually easy to find transport during the day.

Pantai Watuparunu.

Waikabubak (Central Sumba)

As mentioned earlier, Waikabubak is an ideal base for exploring the central-western region of Sumba. If you’re arriving from Waingapu, you might want to stop at Kampung Adat Pasunga (Google Maps) before reaching town. It’s known for a nice collection of Marapu tombs, but since I was traveling by public transport, a stop wasn’t possible.

Traditional Villages

In Waikabubak itself, there are a couple of nearby traditional villages worth visiting:

  • Prai Ijing (Google Maps) – Probably the most photogenic and well-maintained village in the area. While it’s a bit commercialized, the locals were incredibly friendly and genuinely curious. Entrance fee: IDR 25,000.
  • Kampung Tarung (Google Maps) – Another commonly recommended village. I didn’t make it here, but I imagine it’s quite similar in style to the others.

Prai Ijing.

Waterfalls

Lapopu & Matayangu Falls

These two waterfalls—Lapopu Falls (Google Maps) and Matayangu Falls (Google Maps) —are located on the same trail and are within walking distance of each other. The trail is available on organic maps and All Trails . However, the locals at the entrance charge a steep IDR 150,000 and push for a guide for an extra IDR 100,000. Based on recent reviews, I decided to skip this one under those conditions.

Wee Kacura

Wee Kacura (Google Maps) is a more laid-back and affordable option. Although they also ask for money and offer unnecessary guiding services, the price is more reasonable: IDR 50,000, though you can easily offer IDR 20,000 without issue. The area features a beautiful series of small waterfalls and natural pools set among rice fields.

Wee Kacura.

Lokomboro Waterfall

Lokomboro Waterfall (Google Maps) was absolutely worth it. I had the place entirely to myself. You can park at the nearby hydroelectric power plant (Google Maps), and from there, hike up the river for a few hundred meters. A kind janitor offered to guide me—he showed me how to navigate the riverbed without getting wet. I gave him IDR 50,000, and he was genuinely helpful.

Lokomboro Waterfall.

Beaches

In this region, I didn’t find the beaches particularly appealing for swimming—many are rough or not swimmable at all. That said, if you’re into surfing, you’re in for a treat. The area is home to some world-class surf spots like Pantai Marosi (Google Maps).

For casual beachgoers:

  • Pantai Watu Bella (Google Maps) – A small, quieter beach next to Marosi. Reachable via a local village. You might be asked to buy a coconut or pay for parking, which helps the locals.
  • Pantai Kerewei (Google Maps) – Another beach option nearby.
  • Nihiwatu Beach (Google Maps) – Technically public by law, but functionally privatized by the luxury Nihi Sumba Resort, making access impossible.

Pantai Marosi.

Where to Sleep in Waikabubak?

I stayed at Shekinah Homestay & Cafe Waikabubak RedPartner—a very practical option.

If you’re looking to spend a few days by the beach without blowing your budget, consider: THE VILLAGE INN Rua Beach and Jhony Homestay.

How to Reach Waikabubak?

As mentioned earlier, from Waingapu, the guesthouse arranged a spot for me in a Travel Sinar Lombok (Instagram) minivan. They booked it via WhatsApp and picked me up directly.

From Tambolaka, shared minivans leave regularly during the week. My situation was a bit different—I traveled on a Sunday, so I had to head to the bus terminal (Google Maps) myself. With some Google Translate help and a friendly English-speaking passerby, I managed to get into what turned out to be a semi-private minibus (we picked up a few others along the way). It cost me IDR 100,000 to get to my hotel in Tambolaka.

Kampung Tarung.

Tambolaka (West Sumba)

Much like Waingapu, Tambolaka mainly serves as an arrival or departure hub for Sumba. However, it’s also a decent base for exploring the western coast, which features some beautiful beaches and cultural spots.

The nicest beach, not too far from town, is in my opinion Pantai Oro (Google Maps). I parked directly at Oro Beach Houses and used their access—staff told me there was no problem. The beach is very nice and quiet, perfect for watching the sunset.

Pantai Oro.

Heading down south, I recommend visiting the Rumah Budaya Sumba Museum (Google Maps), which on my visit was however half closed—you could visit one room in number so I won’t comment, but technically it could be an interesting visit. From there continue to Waikuri (Google Maps), a beautiful lagoon where you can swim and spend a few hours relaxing. Admission costs IDR 20 000.

Waikuri.

You could also go to nearby Pantai Mandorak (Google Maps), a small protected bay perfect for swimming. Unfortunately, there are a lot of children asking for money, so if you don’t want to come across as “insensitive” you’d probably be better off going elsewhere. A little further south, Pantai Pero (Google Maps) is not bad—they ask IDR 5,000 for parking.

Pantai Mandorak.

Not far away is the iconic traditional village Ratenggaro (Google Maps)—this is definitely the most photogenic village on the island as well as the most popular. Here too many reviews mention pushy children asking for money and whatnot, so I preferred to avoid it and go to nearby Wainyapu (Google Maps). Unfortunately this village caught fire recently so there was not much to see, but the locals turned out to be very friendly and curious, and amazed to see me arrive. I then went down to the beach and flew the drone over Ratenggaro to take the iconic photo.

Pantai Pero.

Finally, if you have time to spare, I recommend driving to Pantai Mbawana (Google Maps), a beautiful deserted beach that can be reached at the end of a dirt road; access is here (Google Maps). I have also been to Pantai Watu Malandong (Google Maps), but in my opinion it is not worth it.

Ratenggaro.

Where to sleep in Tambolaka?

I slept at Hotel Pasola, conveniently located near the airport and not bad at all considering the price. If you prefer a significantly nicer location by the sea, check out Oro Beach Houses.

How to reach Tambolaka?

From Tambolaka Airport there are daily flights to Bali. Also, from the nearby port of Waikelo (Google Maps) there are ferries to Sape in Sumbawa (Google Maps). The same ferry should also stop at Labuan Bajo on Flores Island. You can book online at this site but, at least at the time of writing this guide, you had to have a local bank to make payment.

During the week, to and from Waikabubak, there are minivans that leave frequently. At the guesthouses I was told they could have them pick me up but I moved on a Sunday so I ended up going to the “terminal” (Google Maps) where—with a good dose of google translator and the help of an English-speaking passerby—I was able to get a sort of “private” minibus to leave (we still stopped to pick up people on the way) that took me to the hotel for IDR 100 000.

If you travel in the opposite direction, you can take Travel Sinar Lombok’s minivan (Instagram) which you can book via Whatsapp if you wish. Alternatively, the official office/stop should be this one (Google Maps).

Pantai Mbawana.

Since I no longer run ads, if you found this article helpful, please consider purchasing your travel insurance through one of the links on this site. Doing so supports my work at no additional cost to you. For EU and UK residents, I recommend True Traveller. For everyone else, I recommend HeyMondo, which offers a 5% discount. Thank you for your support!

N.b. Here concludes my direct experience with the major islands of the Indonesian archipelago, but for completeness, there are many other possible destinations that I think are worth mentioning. Below are a few that I didn’t visit myself but that I researched thoroughly or heard great things about from other travelers.

TIMOR

Of the group of islands to the south, Timor is by far the easternmost. I haven’t been there myself, but while I was in Flores, I met more than a few travelers either coming from or heading that way.

If you ever need to do a visa run, you can cross the border overland into Timor-Leste (find a guide here). That said, of the few travelers who make it out this way, most—as far as I know—stick to Pulau Rote (find a guide here).

The rest of Timor is even less touristy. Infrastructure is minimal, and the idea of booking accommodations online or finding a few restaurants open to the public still feels like a distant dream.

You can find more information on this page.

KALIMANTAN (BORNEO)

Kalimantan is simply the Indonesian part of the island of Borneo. I haven’t been there either, but while traveling in the Malaysian part of the island, I met a few travelers heading to Kalimantan.

The Derawan Islands (find a guide here) are especially popular.

Considering that Nusantara, Indonesia’s new capital, is being built in Kalimantan, I imagine the island could soon see major development—especially in terms of infrastructure—which could lead to a boost in tourism.

SULAWESI

Sulawesi is becoming increasingly popular. On recent trips to Indonesia, I met quite a few travelers who had either been or were planning to go.

That said, it’s still a destination where the tourism industry is in its early stages—with everything that entails.

You’ll find two excellent guides for planning your itinerary on the island: Guide One and Guide Two.

ISOLE BANDA

The Banda Islands are one of the most remote and least explored archipelagos in Indonesia. If you’re looking for a truly off-the-radar destination, this might be it.

Find a fairly detailed guide here.

PAPUA (WESTERN NEW GUINEA)

Indonesia administers the western part of the large island of New Guinea, located at the far eastern edge of the country. This is Papua Province, which is arguably the least touristed area in all of Indonesia.

An exception in the west is the Raja Ampat Archipelago, considered the most biodiverse marine ecosystem in the world. Located in the heart of the Coral Triangle, it hosts over 75% of known coral species, more than 1,400 species of reef fish, and an extraordinary range of marine life—including sharks, manta rays, and sea turtles.

Thanks to its remote location and ongoing conservation efforts, Raja Ampat is a paradise for divers and ocean lovers.

Over the years, I’ve spoken to many travelers who’ve dived in both Komodo and Raja Ampat. Many seem to prefer Komodo, which is certainly more accessible and affordable.

You can find a guide on this page.

Possible Itineraries in Indonesia

After reading all about what to do and see in Indonesia, you’ve probably realized—this country is huge. Even after spending nearly five months there, I was only able to explore a portion of it. I understand most travelers have far less time, so instead of offering full-country itineraries (as I usually do), I’ve created island-specific itineraries below. These can easily be mixed and matched to suit trips of various lengths.

As with any destination, there’s no one-size-fits-all itinerary. So think of what follows as a starting point—feel free to tweak it or build your own based on your interests and budget!

Harau Valley.

Two-Week Itinerary in Sumatra

Especially if you don’t have other beach time planned during your trip to Indonesia, I recommend starting in Banda Aceh, so you can spend a few days on Pulau Weh. Otherwise, you could fly straight into Medan.

Banda Aceh (1 night) Day 1: Depending on when you arrive, you might head straight to Pulau Weh. If not, spend the day in town—there are a couple of moving tsunami-related sites to visit, plus the striking Baiturrahman Grand Mosque.

Pulau Weh (3 nights) Day 2: Take the ferry from Banda Aceh to Pulau Weh. Spend the rest of the day unwinding on the beach.

Day 3: Snorkel at Pantai Iboih, go diving, or hop on a boat tour.

Day 4: Explore the island by scooter at your own pace.

Medan (1 night) Day 5: Ferry back to Banda Aceh, then fly or take the overnight bus to Medan. If you arrive in the afternoon, you could visit the Tjong A Fie Mansion and Masjid Raya.

Bukit Lawang (4 nights) Day 6: Travel by bus to Bukit Lawang. Set up your jungle trek for the next day, and maybe visit the local market, the bat cave, or just relax by the river.

Day 7–9: Three days of jungle trekking in Gunung Leuser National Park—this is one of the best places to spot wild orangutans.

Berastagi (2 nights) Day 10: Head to Berastagi. Spend the day visiting the local market and small museum.

Day 11: Hike up Mount Sibayak, then soak in the nearby hot springs.

Lake Toba (2 nights) Day 12: Travel to Lake Toba and spend the rest of the day relaxing by the water.

Day 13: Explore the lake and Samosir Island, including traditional Batak villages.

Day 14: Return to Medan.

Harau Valley.

Three-Week Itinerary in Sumatra

If you’ve got an extra week, I recommend following the two-week itinerary above, then flying (or taking a bus) from Medan to Padang to visit the Mentawai Islands.

If you have a couple more days to spare, the stunning Harau Valley—with its waterfalls and rice terraces—is absolutely worth the detour.

Two-Week Itinerary in Java

Thanks to the many flight connections to Jakarta, this itinerary is quite popular—and it pairs easily with a few days in nearby Bali.

Jakarta (1 night) Day 1: Honestly, I wouldn’t recommend spending more than one night in Jakarta, especially if your time is limited. If you arrive early enough, consider joining a free walking tour to get a quick overview of the city.

Yogyakarta (4 nights) Day 2: Take a train or short domestic flight from Jakarta to Yogyakarta. If you have time in the afternoon, explore the city—perhaps starting with Malioboro Street or the Water Castle.

Day 3: Day trip to Borobudur Temple and Prambanan Temple—two of Indonesia’s most iconic UNESCO sites.

Day 4: Rent a scooter and head to Kedung Kayang Waterfall, then continue to Nepal Van Java, a scenic mountain village with stunning views.

Day 5: Early morning hike up Mount Sumbing (for experienced hikers). Return to Yogyakarta in the afternoon.

Karimunjawa Islands (5 nights) Day 6: If you haven’t explored Yogyakarta yet, do so in the morning. In the afternoon, transfer to Jepara—the port town for boats to Karimunjawa. If you want more beach time, consider traveling to Jepara the evening before.

Day 7: Take the ferry or speedboat to Karimunjawa. Spend the rest of the day relaxing on the beach.

Day 8: Enjoy a full day of beach time, snorkeling, or just unplugging.

Day 9: Join a boat tour to explore nearby islands, go snorkeling, or dive.

Day 10: Return by ferry to Jepara. Then transfer to Malang (it’s a long journey, so plan accordingly).

Malang (1 night) Day 11: Visit Jodipan Rainbow Village in the morning. Rent a scooter or join a tour to start the Mount Bromo – Tumpak Sewu circuit. In the afternoon, head to Mount Bromo and walk to the crater. Spend the night in Cemoro Lawang, the village nearest the volcano.

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall (1 night) Day 12: Catch the sunrise at King Kong Hill (optional but spectacular). Then transfer to Tumpak Sewu, one of the most stunning waterfalls in Indonesia, for an afternoon visit.

Kawah Ijen (2 nights) Day 13: Return to Malang and take the train or bus to Banyuwangi, the base for visiting Kawah Ijen.

Day 14: Night/early-morning hike to Kawah Ijen to see the famous blue flames and sunrise over the sulfur crater lake.

Three-Week Itinerary in Java

If you have an extra week, you can expand this itinerary by adding:

  • Bandung – Spend a couple of days exploring the cool highlands, volcanoes, tea plantations, and colonial architecture.
  • Cimaja or Batukaras – Great spots if you’re interested in surfing; Cimaja is closer to Jakarta, while Batukaras has a more laid-back vibe.

Broken Beach.

Two-Week Itinerary in Bali

This itinerary is ideal for first-time visitors to Indonesia who want a balanced mix of temples, beaches, and nature—while being okay with visiting some of the island’s more touristy spots.

South Bali (3 nights) Day 1: Recover from jet lag and enjoy a relaxing day on the beach. Depending on where you’re staying (Seminyak, Canggu, or Uluwatu), there’s no shortage of great cafés and sunsets to ease into your trip.

Day 2: Explore the Bukit Peninsula—don’t miss Uluwatu Temple, perched dramatically on a cliffside.

Day 3: Head north to visit Tegenungan Waterfall and Taman Ayun Temple (or swap these out for other activities that interest you). Wrap up the day with sunset at Tanah Lot, one of Bali’s most iconic sea temples.

Ubud (3 nights) Day 4: Transfer from South Bali to Ubud in the morning. Wander the town center, visit the Ubud Palace and market, then in the afternoon, stroll through the Sacred Monkey Forest.

Days 5–6: Visit the Tegalalang Rice Terraces and then choose a mix of temples or waterfalls based on your interests and how confident you feel riding a scooter (or hire a driver). Popular options include Tirta Empul, Goa Gajah, or Tibumana Waterfall.

Central Bali (2 nights) Day 7: Visit the Jatiluwih Rice Terraces, Leke Leke Waterfall, and Ulun Danu Beratan Temple on the lake. Overnight in Munduk, a peaceful highland village.

Day 8: Explore the beautiful Munduk waterfalls—such as Munduk Waterfall, Banyumala Twin Falls, or Gitgit.

Kintamani (2 nights) Day 9: Transfer to Kintamani, the region around Mount Batur. Enjoy the views over the caldera lake.

Day 10: Early morning hike up Mount Batur to catch the sunrise from the summit. Return to your hotel for a well-earned breakfast and rest.

Amed (2 nights) Day 11: Visit the Besakih Temple (Bali’s “mother temple”) on the way to Amed, a quiet fishing village known for its black sand beaches and coral reefs.

Day 12: Spend the day snorkeling or diving. Don’t miss the sunset from Lahangan Sweet, with epic views of Mount Agung.

Amlapura (2 nights) Day 13: Transfer to Amlapura. Visit the traditional village of Bugbug and unwind at Virgin Beach, a local favorite with clear waters and white sand.

Day 14: Start your day with sunrise at Bukit Cinta, a scenic hill overlooking Mount Agung. Then, make your way back to South Bali.

Three-Week Itinerary in Bali

If you have a few extra days, consider adding:

  • Lovina – On the north coast, known for dolphin watching and hot springs.
  • The Nusa Islands – (Lembongan, Ceningan, Penida) for stunning cliffs, crystal waters, and dramatic viewpoints.
  • The Gili Islands – Especially Gili Air or Gili Meno, if you’re craving a more laid-back island vibe.

Kelingking Beach.

Two-Week Itinerary in Lombok

Unless you’re planning to climb Mount Rinjani, two weeks in Lombok might feel like more than enough—but if you enjoy slow travel, stunning nature, and quiet beaches, you’ll find plenty to do.

Gili Islands (3 nights) Day 1: Arrive by speedboat from Bali. Spend your first day relaxing on the beach—Gili Trawangan for more nightlife, Gili Air for a chilled vibe, or Gili Meno for peace and quiet.

Day 2: Take a snorkeling tour to see coral reefs, underwater statues, and maybe even some sea turtles.

Day 3: Another day to unwind by the water—rent a bike and explore the island or just laze under a palm tree.

Senaru (4 nights) Day 4: Take a boat from the Gilis to Bangsal, then transfer to Senaru (by scooter or private car). In the afternoon, visit Sendang Gile and Tiu Kelep waterfalls. Arrange your Rinjani trek if you’re doing one.

Days 5–7 (Optional Rinjani Trek): Join a 2–3-day guided trek to Mount Rinjani—Indonesia’s second-highest volcano. You’ll summit or reach the crater rim, camp under the stars, and soak in epic views. Return to Senaru for the night on Day 7.

Not hiking Rinjani? Spend just 2 nights in Senaru and add an extra day to Tetebatu or Kuta.

Sembalun Lawang (1 night) Day 8: Transfer to Sembalun Lawang, the other gateway to Rinjani. Visit the scenic viewpoint at Bukit Selong in the late afternoon for sweeping views of the patchwork rice fields.

Tetebatu (3 nights) Day 9: If you’re feeling up for it, hike Pergasingan Hill at sunrise for amazing valley views. Then continue to Tetebatu, a peaceful village often called “the Ubud of Lombok.” Rest and recover.

Day 10: Take a day trip to the Benang Stokel and Benang Kelambu waterfalls—easily some of the most beautiful in Lombok.

Day 11: Explore Tetebatu’s rice terraces, monkey forest, and surrounding rural scenery. A guided village walk is a great way to meet locals and learn more about daily life here.

Kuta Lombok (3 nights) Day 12: Transfer to Kuta Lombok, the surf and beach capital of the island. Spend your first evening watching the sunset from Bukit Merese or Tanjung Aan viewpoint.

Day 13: Spend the day surfing, beach-hopping, or just relaxing. Selong Belanak, Mawi, and Tanjung Aan are all nearby.

Day 14: Another day for beaches or perhaps a short scooter trip to explore hidden coves and cliffside viewpoints.

Three-Week Itinerary in Lombok

If you have a few extra days, consider adding:

  • Ekas Peninsula – A quiet, off-the-beaten-path area with excellent surf, cliffs, and tide pools.
  • Senggigi – A more developed west coast area perfect for sunset views, beach bars, and easy day trips.

Mount Rinjani.

Two-Week Itinerary in Flores

Many travelers arrive in Flores by taking a boat tour from Lombok, as outlined in the guide. For convenience, I’ll start this itinerary from there.

Komodo National Park (3 nights) Day 1: Begin your Komodo National Park boat tour.

Day 2: Day 2 of the boat tour.

Day 3: Day 3 of the tour.

Labuan Bajo (1 night) Day 4: Arrive in Labuan Bajo after your tour ends. Spend the night here.

Wae Rebo (1 night) Day 5: Rent a scooter and drive to the Wae Rebo village trailhead. The scenic trek up to this remote mountain village is one of Flores’ highlights. Spend the night in the traditional Wae Rebo village and experience local life.

Ruteng (2 nights) Day 6: Drive to Ruteng, stopping at the Lingko Spider Web rice fields—a famous agricultural landscape shaped like a giant spider web.

Day 7: Explore Ruteng and its surrounding areas.

Bajawa (2 nights) Day 8: Drive to Bajawa—en route, you can stop by some traditional villages. Enjoy a sunset from one of the area’s viewpoints.

Day 9: Trek to Mount Inerie, an active volcano with stunning views. After your hike, unwind at the hot springs nearby.

Riung (2 nights) Day 10: Drive to Riung, known for its picturesque coastline. Catch a sunset from one of the stunning viewpoints.

Day 11: Spend the day in Riung’s national park, famous for its 17 islands. Take a boat tour to explore.

Moni (1 night) Day 12: Drive to Moni—a charming town near Kelimutu National Park. Explore the waterfalls and relax in the hot springs.

Koka Beach (1 night) Day 13: Wake up early to catch the sunrise at Kelimutu, where you can see the famous three-colored crater lakes. Afterward, head to Koka Beach for some well-deserved beach relaxation.

Maumere (1 night) Day 14: Spend your last day at Koka Beach, then head to Maumere for your final night in Flores.

Three-Week Itinerary in Flores

If you have an extra week, consider these options:

  • Spend more time in Labuan Bajo for diving or visit Rangko Cave.
  • Enjoy additional days at Koka Beach, or take the Maumere Boat Tour.

Tololela.

Two-Week Itinerary in Sumba

In my opinion, two weeks is the perfect balance for experiencing all that Sumba has to offer, while still leaving plenty of time to relax.

Waingapu (2 nights) Day 1: Arrive in Waingapu and rent a scooter. Spend the afternoon at Pantai Walakiri to see the iconic “dancing trees”—a unique and peaceful spot.

Day 2: Visit Puru Kambera Beach, Tanggedu Waterfall, and the traditional Wunga Village to immerse yourself in the local culture.

Pantai Taribang (2 nights) Day 3: Drive to Pantai Taribang. Spend the rest of the day unwinding at the beach.

Day 4: You can either visit another waterfall nearby or simply enjoy the peaceful beach atmosphere for the day.

Southeast Sumba (3 nights) Day 5: Return to Waingapu, then head to Wai Marang Waterfall for a refreshing visit. Stay in the area for the night.

Day 6: Visit the Kampung Adat Praiyawang, a traditional village, before making your way to the southern tip of the island. Sumba Adventure Resort and Wajonata Sumba are great accommodation options.

Day 7: Spend the day relaxing at the beach. If you’re up for a bit of exploration, stop by Pantai Watuparunu for a stunning coastal view.

Waingapu (1 night) Day 8: If you leave early, you could head to Waingapu in the afternoon. Otherwise, spend the morning at the beach and return to Waingapu in the afternoon to drop off the scooter. Stay the night in town.

Waikabubak (3 nights) Day 9: Transfer from Waingapu to Waikabubak. Explore Prai Ijing Village, which is easily accessible on foot from your accommodation.

Day 10: Rent a scooter and head south to visit the beaches. Pantai Watu Bella is a must-see, and you can also check out Lapopu Falls and Matayangu if you have time.

Day 11: Explore Wee Kacura and the nearby Lokomboro Waterfall for more natural beauty.

Tambolaka (3 nights) Day 12: Transfer from Waikabubak to Tambolaka. Rent a scooter and enjoy the rest of the day at Pantai Oro.

Day 13: Visit Waikuri Lagoon, Pantai Mandorak, and Pantai Pero—three of Sumba’s beautiful coastal gems.

Day 14: Explore the Ratenggaro Traditional Village, or head to nearby Wainyapu and Pantai Mbawana.

Three-Week Itinerary in Sumba

While three weeks in Sumba offers plenty of time for relaxation and exploration, it might be more than enough for most travelers. If you love the beach or surfing, then an extended stay might make sense, but for most, two weeks will be plenty to experience everything this island has to offer.

Wainyapu.

How to Get Around Indonesia

Getting around Indonesia is generally straightforward, especially in tourist-friendly areas. Whether you’re exploring cities or island-hopping, there are various transportation options to suit your needs.

Bemos in Indonesia

Bemos are minivans used for short to medium distances and are the cheapest form of public transportation in Indonesia. They mainly serve locals and operate with designated stops and terminals. However, you can often flag one down anywhere along the route. They are a popular and cost-effective way to get around, especially in smaller cities.

Shuttle Buses in Indonesia

Shuttle buses are commonly used, particularly in Bali, where accommodations and tourist offices can provide tickets. The Parema Bus service is the most popular operator in Bali and Lombok. You can check prices and schedules online, making it convenient for travelers.

Bremo.

Buses in Indonesia

Indonesia has a dense bus network, especially in more populated areas like Sumatra and Java. Each city typically has a central bus terminal where various companies operate, simplifying travel. For most long-distance trips, tickets can be easily booked online via platforms like RedBus and Traveloka.

Ride-Hailing Apps: Grab, Gojek, Indrive, and Taxis

Ride-hailing apps like Grab, Gojek, and Indrive are widely used throughout Indonesia and offer very affordable prices compared to western standards. These services are convenient because you know your fare upfront and avoid haggling with taxi drivers. However, in less touristy and rural areas, these apps may not be available, and local taxi services may charge higher rates for tourists.

Both Grab and Gojek also offer mototaxis (Ojek), which are perfect for short trips. They are cheap and fast, making them an excellent way to navigate busy traffic. If you travel light, mototaxis are also great for transfers between destinations.

Private Driver in Indonesia

Hiring a private driver is a common option for those seeking comfort and convenience. You can find private drivers by asking at your guesthouse, searching through online forums like Reddit or Facebook groups, or booking through agencies. Another strategy is to use Grab or Gojek to book a ride and then negotiate a full-day or multi-day hire with the driver for a fixed rate. This method often saves both you and the driver money, as the driver can avoid the app fees.

Rent Scooters in Indonesia

Renting a scooter is often the best way to explore islands like Bali and Lombok. It’s not only the cheapest option, but it also offers the most flexibility. In Bali, you can rent a scooter for as little as a couple of euros a day, but prices may vary depending on the location. In more remote areas like Sumba, prices can be higher.

For longer-term travel, buying a scooter and selling it later can be a great option. Some companies, like Motor Adventure Bali, offer a unique service where you can rent a scooter in one place and return it in another, covering islands like Java, Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa, and Flores.

Note: While an international driver’s license is technically required, in practice, the police often settle for a small fee if you’re caught without one. The real risk is in the event of a serious accident, as insurance may not cover you in that case. If you are already abroad or simply want to obtain an international driver’s license online, you can do so at this website.

Even monkeys ride scooters!

Trains in Indonesia

Trains are a practical option only on the island of Java, where the rail network is quite well-developed. Major cities like Jakarta, Yogyakarta, and Surabaya are connected by train. Train travel is often cheaper and faster than buses for many routes. Tickets can be booked easily online through platforms like Traveloka.

Domestic Flights in Indonesia

Domestic flights are often the best option for long-distance travel within Indonesia, especially between islands. With many budget airlines offering affordable prices, flying can be faster and cheaper than overland travel for longer distances. Popular low-cost carriers include Lion Air, AirAsia, and Garuda Indonesia.

Tiu Kelep.

Ferries in Indonesia

Ferries are a common and cheaper alternative to flying. The national ferry operator, ASDP, covers many routes, and tickets can usually be bought online through platforms like ferizy. However, you may require a local bank account for payment.

While ferries on busy routes like Java to Bali or Bali to Lombok depart multiple times a day, longer routes like Flores to Sumba may only depart once a week, especially during the rainy season. Be sure to plan ahead and confirm departure times locally.

Gurusina.

Travel to Indonesia: Costs

Indonesia is one of the most affordable travel destinations, especially for budget-conscious travelers. Costs can vary depending on your travel style and the areas you visit, but overall, it remains very inexpensive. For a backpacker, a budget of around 30€ a day (or less) is entirely feasible without sacrificing comfort or experiences.

Cost of Accommodation in Indonesia

Indonesia offers a wide range of accommodation options, from budget-friendly hostels to mid-range guesthouses and hotels.

Hostels: You can find a good hostel for less than 10€ per night in most areas. In non-tourist regions, you might even pay as little as 5€ for a night in a basic but clean dorm.

Guesthouses & Small Hotels: For private rooms in guesthouses or small hotels, expect to pay 10-15€ per night in popular areas like Bali or Lombok, and possibly less in less touristy spots.

Cost of Transportation in Indonesia

Transportation within Indonesia is very affordable, especially when using public options.

Public Transport: Local buses, minibuses, and trains are very cheap. For example, traveling by bus or train between cities on Java or Sumatra is incredibly budget-friendly.

Private Transportation: Costs rise significantly if you opt for private vehicles, such as taxis or private drivers, and domestic flights. While more comfortable, these modes of transport can eat into your budget if you’re not careful.

Domestic Flights: While domestic flights are often very cheap (especially with low-cost carriers), booking early can help you save even more. It’s worth considering if you’re covering large distances between islands.

Cost of Food in Indonesia

Food is another area where Indonesia excels in affordability, especially if you embrace local eating options.

Warungs: These small, local eateries offer the best value for money. In a Warung, where you pick your food from a display or buffet-style, you’ll pay between IDR 20,000 to 40,000 per meal (around 1-2€).

Restaurants: At casual restaurants, a meal like Nasi Goreng (fried rice) or Mie Goreng (fried noodles) will rarely exceed IDR 50,000 (around 3€).

Western-style Restaurants: These may cost more, especially in tourist areas, but still remain relatively affordable compared to Western standards.

One of my first meals in Indonesia for less than a euro.

Other Costs (Withdrawals and SIM Cards)

ATM Withdrawals: ATM withdrawal fees vary, but you can minimize these costs by using cards that don’t charge fees for overseas withdrawals. Banks like Mandiri, BSI, and Maybank have been known to offer free withdrawals for foreign cards.

SIM Cards: Telkomsel is the most reliable provider, particularly in rural areas, and it’s usually the only option in less developed regions. SIM cards are cheap, but if you’re in Bali, you may encounter issues where SIM cards are sold with mandatory data packages at inflated prices.

You can buy a SIM card with the cheapest package and then add more data directly through the app at regular prices.

For travelers who prefer to skip the hassle, eSIM providers like Airalo and Ubigi are convenient alternatives, but they tend to be pricier than local SIM cards. Coverage might not always be as good as Telkomsel, particularly outside urban areas.

Dream Beach.

Travel to Indonesia: Safety

Indonesia is generally considered a safe country. The most common crimes are fortunately limited to muggings and thefts (be mindful of your belongings, especially in crowded places), while violent crimes are extremely rare, much like in other parts of Asia.

If you decide to rent a scooter, pay special attention to traffic, which can be chaotic depending on where you are. Additionally, the roads are often in less-than-ideal condition, and traffic laws are frequently ignored by locals. Another recommendation is to avoid any contact with drugs; Indonesia has the death penalty for drug trafficking, and even being caught with small amounts can lead to serious consequences, including jail time.

Finally, be cautious of scams. Be wary of individuals approaching you on the street offering unsolicited help, “mandatory guides,” fake entrance fees, inflated charges, and similar tactics. While these scams don’t usually pose a physical threat to your safety, getting ripped off is never pleasant.

In any case, don’t be overly worried; dangerous countries are definitely elsewhere. Use common sense, check out my tips on how to travel safely anywhere in the world, and you’ll see that you won’t encounter any major problems.

Are you planning a trip to Indonesia? Check out these posts:

The best cards for traveling

What to bring on your trip

Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!

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