India Travel Guide

India, the seventh-largest country in the world by area and the most populous, stretches from the majestic Himalayan peaks in the north to the beaches and jungles of the south. It is a land of extreme geographic and cultural diversity, truly one of a kind, offering endless travel possibilities for all interests and tastes.

I spent nearly four months backpacking primarily through northern India, barely scratching the surface of what is essentially a vast subcontinent that would take years to explore fully. Whether you have just a few weeks or several months, this guide, filled with useful information and advice, is here to help you better plan your backpacking trip to India.

Quick menu

• When to visit India
• Documents and vaccinations to enter India
• What to do and see in India: Central, North, South
• Suggested itineraries in India
• How to get around India
• Backpacking India: costs
• Backpacking India: safety

Jodhpur, blue city.

When to visit India

The best time to visit India is generally from October to March, when most of the country enjoys warm, sunny, and mostly dry weather. The main challenge during the rest of the year is the monsoon season, which begins around June in the south and reaches the north by early August, as illustrated by this image.

However, even in typically less favorable months like June and July, the mountainous regions in the north can still be excellent to visit, as the monsoons have not yet arrived, and the temperatures are very pleasant due to the altitude. August and September also offer great opportunities to visit certain northern regions that benefit from a unique “rain shadow” effect, receiving very little rain and enjoying optimal temperatures. Two classic examples are the Spiti Valley and Kashmir.

It’s difficult to generalize about the best time to visit such a large and geographically diverse country, so I recommend doing specific research on the area you plan to explore. As a general rule, though, the Indian lowlands are best visited from October to March, while the mountains are ideal from May to September.

The red fort.

Documents and vaccinations to enter India

To enter India it is always necessary to obtain a visa. In the case of arriving in India by air via one of the 28 international airports, the process of obtaining a visa is quite simple: you can easly do everything online via the appropriate portal and apply for the so-called “E-Visa.”

There are three visa options for India: 30 days, 1 year, and 5 years. The 30-day visa costs only $10 during the off-season (April to June) and $25 for the rest of the year. This visa is “Double Entry,” meaning you can leave and re-enter the country once during its validity.

The one-year visa costs $40, while the five-year visa is $80. Both are “Multiple Entry” visas, allowing you to leave and return as many times as you like, though you cannot stay for more than 90 days at a time. Keep in mind that all e-visas start from the day they are issued, not from the day you enter the country. Additionally, you may be asked to show proof of an exit ticket within your visa’s limits. Personally, I was never asked for this on two occasions, but I entered by land. Airports might be stricter in enforcing this requirement. How to travel with a one way ticket.

Khajuraho temples.

The e-visa is undoubtedly the most convenient and economical option for those visiting India, but it’s important to note that it is only valid for entry through one of the 28 international airports or 5 ports (Mumbai, Cochin, Mormugao, Chennai, and New Mangalore). If you enter via a land border, as I did from Nepal, you’ll need to obtain your visa from an Indian diplomatic or consular office—either in your home country or, in my case, from Kathmandu, Nepal. However, the application process should still be started online through the designated portal before visiting the embassy or consulate.

Note: For the 1-year and 5-year e-visas, which allow “multiple entries,” you can enter by land after your initial entry into the country.

India does not require any mandatory vaccinations unless you’re arriving from a country with a risk of yellow fever. However, vaccinations for Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B are always recommended. It’s a good idea to consult with a travel doctor to assess your specific health needs.

Trekking in the Himalaya.

What to do and see in India

Given the size of India, I’ve divided this section of the guide into three areas or itineraries: North, Central, and South. These roughly cover everything north of New Delhi, the region between New Delhi and Mumbai, and everything south of Mumbai, respectively. For each region, you will find a more detailed map, and for longer trips, you can easily combine the various routes.

Even with four months of travel, I’ve only scratched the surface of what there is to see. While I’ve done my best to make this guide as comprehensive as possible, the following itineraries primarily focus on the most popular tourist destinations.

Prices in this guide are listed in the local currency, the Indian Rupee (INR). At the time of writing, the exchange rate is approximately 1€ = 93 INR. For the latest exchange rate, I recommend checking out this page.

CENTRAL INDIA

Let’s start with what can be considered the north-central part of India, which for simplicity, I’ll refer to as “the center.” This region essentially covers the states of Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, and Rajasthan, following what is probably the most popular travel route in the country.

Summers in these regions can be extremely hot, so it’s best to visit between October and March.

New Delhi

India’s capital is often the first stop for many travelers. I spent only a couple of days there, and unfortunately, my visit in late May was far from ideal due to the oppressive heat. I wasn’t particularly impressed by this massive, chaotic, and heavily polluted city. That said, if you have a couple of days to explore, here are a few things worth checking out.

What to do and see in New Delhi

Delhi has enough attractions to keep you busy for several days, but I believe that a couple of days is sufficient to see the main highlights.

Inside the red fort.

Historical center 

The older part of the city groups together many of the major tourist sites and you can create a nice circuit: coming out at the Chandni Chowk metro stop (Google Maps) you can visit the Red Fort (Google Maps) and easily spend a couple of hours, entrance costs INR 950 (INR 900 if you pay by card) it is quite expensive and if you are on a tight budget I think a look from the outside is enough, the inner gardens in my opinion are not exactly impressive.

From the Red Fort, continue along Chandni Chowk Road and visit the two temples Shri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir (Google Maps) and Bhagwan Shri Kalki Mandir (Google Maps) located at the beginning of the road and then walk to the iconic spice market (Google Maps) always following Chandni Chowk Road. From here I recommend backtracking through the alleys of Kinari Bazar and Dariba Kalan before reaching the Jama Masjid Mosque (Google Maps). 

This just described is broadly speaking the classic itinerary in the historic center of Delhi. Personally I also visited the Swaminarayan Akshardham temple (Google Maps), admission is free and the structure is really impressive. It is a stone’s throw from the Akshardham metro station (Google Maps) which makes it really easy to access. I also went to Lodhi Gardens (Google Maps), free admission and definitely a peaceful spot within the chaotic city. There are also a couple of ancient buildings and monuments that you can visit within the park.

Other iconic places that I personally did not visit, however, are undoubtedly the Humayun Tombs (Google Maps), similar in architecture to the Taj Mahal, the Qutab Minar (Google Maps), home to the world’s tallest minaret made of bricks, and the iconic India Gate (Google Maps), a war memorial. Finally, the Sikh Sri Bangla Sahib Gurudwara temple (Google Maps) is nice and in the evening they serve free food to everyone in the “canteen,” an interesting experience.

Sri Bangla Sahib Gurudwara temple.

How to reach New Delhi?

Delhi offers connections to virtually every major city within a radius of at least 1,000 km, whether by train, bus, or air. Within the city, I highly recommend using the metro, which provides an affordable way to travel almost anywhere, including to the airport.

Where to sleep in New Delhi?

I slept at Joey’s Hostel and I would recommend it. The price is great, the staff is really nice and helpful, the breakfast included is good and especially if you are in Delhi during the summer, the air-conditioned common rooms are a nice touch and the location near the metro station is really handy.

Agra 

The city of Agra, located just a couple of hours from Delhi, is home to India’s most iconic attraction: the Taj Mahal.

What to see and do in Agra 

Taj Mahal

Once again, I find the entry cost to be quite disproportionate, and it continues to rise. Currently, the standard ticket costs 1,100 rupees (or 1,050 if you pay by card), plus an additional 200 rupees to enter the mausoleum. While this is only a couple of euros more, I honestly don’t think it’s worth it if you’re on a tight budget, so I recommend sticking with the standard ticket.

The Taj Mahal is open daily from 6:00 AM to 7:00 PM, except on Fridays. I suggest entering through the east gate (Google Maps), as it tends to be less crowded. The ticket office opens around 5:30 AM, so arriving at that time will allow you to get in as early as possible; by 8:00 AM, the site can become extremely crowded.

The Taj Mahal.

Agra Fort

The structure of Agra Fort (Google Maps) is similar to that of Delhi’s Red Fort, but it is better preserved. From the fort, you can enjoy an excellent view of the Taj Mahal, making it a popular spot to visit on the same day. A tuk-tuk ride from the Taj Mahal to the fort costs around 30 to 50 rupees, while admission to the fort is 600 rupees. You can receive a discount of 50 rupees if you present your Taj Mahal entrance ticket.

Additionally, another interesting site just 40 km from Agra is Fatehpur Sikri fort (Google Maps), an impressive walled citadel that attracts only a fraction of Agra’s tourists. It can be easily reached by day bus.

How to reach Agra?

Agra is situated along one of the country’s main rail lines, but it is also one of the busiest, making it challenging to secure a reserved seat on short notice. However, it’s still worth trying. Alternatively, you can take a bus from New Delhi, which takes about 4 to 5 hours.

Where to sleep in Agra?

Again, I slept at Joey’s Hostel and I would recommend it. There is a nice terrace with Taj Mahal view and the hostel is a five-minute walk from the entrance, the included breakfast is not bad at all and the staff is super helpful.

Orchha

Orchha is slightly off the classic itinerary but I think it is definitely worth a visit; it is a small medieval village on the banks of the Betwa River with a very impressive fort and a really interesting series of temples.

Orchha.

What to do and see in Orchha

All of the attractions are within a few kilometers, so one day I think is sufficient for sightseeing. I recommend starting your visit early in the morning because the fort alone can easily take a couple of hours and it is also good to remember that with the entrance fee, which costs 200 rupees, you can then also visit the catacombs (Google Maps) and the Lakshmi Narayan Mandir temple (Google Maps). 

To conclude, I also recommend visiting the Chaturbhuj Mandir temple (Google Maps) from which you have a beautiful view of the fort and by paying a few rupees to the janitor you can also climb to the roof of the temple enjoying a beautiful view of the whole village.

Le catacombe di Orchha.

How to reach Orchha?

Orchha has a very small train station (Google Maps) with service only a couple of times a day. If you’re heading to Khajuraho, there is a passenger train at 7:25 AM, but it cannot be booked in advance. The best way to reach Orchha is via Jhansi, which is about 15 km away. Jhansi has a well-served train station (Google Maps) and a bus station (Google Maps) with connections to all major nearby towns.

From Jhansi to Orchha, a tuk-tuk ride takes about 45 minutes; I paid 220 rupees by sharing a ride with a friend. A cheaper alternative, which I haven’t personally tried, is to take one of the shared tuk-tuks that reportedly leave from the bus station once they are full, costing around 20 rupees per person.

Where to sleep in Orchha?

Shree Ram Homestay is probably the best option in the village. A good alternative seems to be Temple View Guesthouse. In any case, the village is really small and pretty much all the accommodations are concentrated in the center so it should not be hard to find a place to stay.

Orchha fort.

Khajuraho

Khajuraho is a small town located roughly halfway between Agra and Varanasi, making it an ideal stop to break up the journey between these two popular destinations. The town is renowned for its groups of Hindu and Jain temples, which are part of a UNESCO World Heritage site, celebrated for their exquisite stone carvings.

Khajuraho temples.

What to do and see in Khajuraho

Many people come to Khajuraho exclusively to visit the so-called main complex or “Western Group” (Google Maps): this is definitely where the most impressive and best-preserved temples are located. Admission costs 600 rupees and opening is at 6:00 a.m. I recommend watching the sunrise inside the complex.

Once you have visited the main complex I also recommend visiting the east group of temples and the south group, the latter are definitely not as beautiful as those in the west group but I think they are still worthwhile. There is no entrance fee to pay except for a couple of temples where a small fee is required, if you are on a really tight budget you might even consider visiting only these and skip the west group.

The temples are all within a short distance of each other, and a good way to visit them is definitely on a bike that can be rented for 100 rupees or a little more, alternatively you can always hire a tuk tuk for a couple of hours.

Those that were recommended to me and I personally visited are: Vamana Temple (Google Maps), Javari Temple (Google Maps), Jain Temples (Google Maps), Duladeo Shiva Temple (Google Maps), Beejamandal Temple (Google Maps) and Chaturbhuji Temple (Google Maps).

From Khajuraho, you can also join a tour to the nearby Panna National Park, which is famous for its high density of tigers, often spotted during visits. The cost is charged per jeep, which can be shared by up to 4 people. To save money, it’s best to join a group and split the cost.

How to reach Khajuraho?

If you’re coming from Varanasi, the most comfortable and convenient option is the night train, which runs three times a week (Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday), with Khajuraho as the final destination.

If you’re traveling from Orchha, I recommend heading to Jhansi to catch the train. From Agra, I suggest taking the night train, which operates daily.

For those continuing to Orchha (via Jhansi) and booking your train online, be sure to enter “Datia” as your destination, as the system may not show trains to Orchha otherwise. I was also told there’s a direct train to Orchha, departing at 12:30 PM, but it’s often delayed, has no reservations, and can be extremely crowded. The fare is only 50 rupees.

Where to sleep in Khajuraho?

Moustache Khajuraho is a really nice hostel within walking distance from the main (west) complex.

Varanasi

Varanasi, one of India’s and the world’s oldest cities, is also one of the country’s holiest. Every year, millions of pilgrims visit its ancient ghats—stairways leading down to the river—to bathe in the sacred waters of the Ganges.

Varanasi.

What to Do and See in Varanasi

Varanasi isn’t a city with must-see monuments; rather, the true allure lies in witnessing the daily rituals and ceremonies along the river. Over 60,000 people bathe in the Ganges every day, especially at sunrise and sunset. During these times, the popular “boat tours” are offered, providing a unique perspective on the various ceremonies taking place along the ghats.

The classic sunset boat ride usually starts at Dasaswamedh Ghat (Google Maps), continues to Manikarnika Ghat (Google Maps), where cremation rituals can be observed, and returns to Dasaswamedh Ghat for the Aarti ceremony.

I also recommend wandering through the maze of narrow streets in the old part of Varanasi. Amid the cows, pilgrims, and street food stalls, you’ll experience a truly unique and vibrant atmosphere.

How to reach Varanasi?

From Khajuraho, there are three trains a week (Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays) if you’re coming from Agra, while trains run daily from Agra. Another possible destination from Khajuraho is Lucknow, which is about 8 hours by bus. Additionally, there is a daily bus that directly connects Varanasi to Kathmandu, Nepal.

Where to sleep in Varanasi?

I spent a few days at the Good Vibes Hostel, central location and really cheap but nothing more. Then I moved to Gostops Varanasi which is outside the old city in a significantly nicer building and all in all I think is a better option. Further south along the Ganges there is a Moustache.

Gange river in Varanasi.

Lucknow

I’ll conclude this section on the central north with a destination I haven’t personally visited but has been highly recommended by several travelers: Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh and historically one of India’s most important cities, often regarded as the heart of North Indian culture.

The main attraction is the Bara Imambara (Google Maps), a grand tomb complex built in 1783, which also features an intriguing labyrinth. Nearby is the Chhota Imambara (Google Maps), an impressive mausoleum dating from 1837. The entrance fee for both sites is INR 500 for foreigners, and it’s a one-time ticket for both attractions.

How to reach Lucknow?

Lucknow is accessible by train from both Agra and New Delhi. However, if you’re in Varanasi, the only option is to travel by bus. You can also reach Lucknow from the town of Sunauli, located on the border with Nepal.

This just described is a popular itinerary that basically starts in New Delhi and ends in Varanasi. Another perhaps even more popular itinerary is the one through the state of Rajasthan, which many combine into one trip.

Jaipur

Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan and also known as the “Pink City,” given its proximity to New Delhi and Agra is for many the first stop on a trip to the region.

Monkey temple in Jaipur.

What to do and see in Jaipur

There are numerous sites to visit in and around Jaipur, also, don’t forget that Jaipur is one of India’s leading cities for textile and garment production, you can get some real bargains.

Jaipur City Palace and Hawa Mahal

These two buildings are undoubtedly the most iconic in downtown Jaipur and are located within walking distance of each other. Personally, I did not visit the Jaipur City Palace (Google Maps) because I arrived at the entrance too late; in fact, it is open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. and admission for foreigners costs 500 rupees. The Hawa Mahal (Google Maps), also known as the Wind Palace, is located a short distance away but I was advised against visiting the inside as the outside of the palace is much more impressive, especially in the evening when it is lit up. 

Finally, there’s Jantar Mantar (Google Maps), a UNESCO World Heritage site located in the heart of the city. It is renowned for being the largest of the five astronomical observatories built by Maharaja Jai Singh between 1727 and 1734. The site is open daily from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., and admission costs INR 200 for foreigners.

N.b. Consider purchasing the combo ticket that gives access to Jantar Mantar, Amber Fort, Central Museum, Hawa Mahal, Isarlat and Nahargarh Fort for INR 1,000; the ticket is valid for two days and can be purchased at any of the sites just mentioned. 

There is also another combo ticket that for INR 500, also valid for two days, includes admission to City Palace, Royal Gaitor and the Maharanis and Jaigarh cenotaphs.

Hawa Mahal.

Amber Fort, Jaigarh Fort and Nahargarh Fort

If this is one of your first stops in Rajasthan, or more generally in India, you may still be eager to explore forts. However, I had already visited quite a few, so I opted for a brief visit to Amber Fort. Nevertheless, here is some information on the various forts in the region.

Amber Fort 

It is located about 11 km north of downtown Jaipur (Google Maps) and is considered the most beautiful of the three forts; you can visit the outer gardens for free and a good slice of the first defensive lines; however, if you want to visit the inside of the citadel, the ticket costs INR 500. The main attraction inside the fort is the “Sheesh Mahal” , a room covered with thousands of small mirrors.

If you wish, you can reach the fort by public transportation thanks to bus number 5, which runs through Hawa Mahal and New Gate.

Amber fort.

Jaigarh Fort

This fort (Google Maps) is located about one kilometer from Amber fort. Never captured in battle, it is known for having the largest cannon in the world, the Jaivana. Apparently the interior gardens and views of the large Amber Fort complex below are also very worthwhile. Admission for foreigners costs INR 500.

Nahargarh Fort 

Finally, Nahargarh Fort (Google Maps), the smallest of the three and also easily accessible on foot from downtown Jaipur, offers excellent views of the city itself and Man Sagar Lake.

Other sites of interest in and around the city are the Jal Mahal (Water Palace), a partly submerged palace that is literally in the middle of the lake and can be seen from the road leading to Amber Fort.  One of the famous Step Well, not far from Amber Fort, with free admission, and finally the Monkey Temple (Galtaji) a temple complex nestled in the forest in a truly picturesque setting that can be reached at the end of a short walk, free admission. 

To move between attractions I recommend paying for a tuk tuk for the whole day; prices during my visit in the off-season were about INR 600 for one person and INR 800 for two.

To conclude, starting from Jaipur within a day one can visit Chand Baori, built more than 1,000 years ago it is one of the largest and most beautiful stepwell in the world, the visit is normally combined with Bhangarh Fort which is more or less halfway between Jaipur and Chand Baori. Visiting both sites by public transport although feasible from my research is not exactly straightforward, in case you are interested any agency in town offers the one-day tour/transportation to both destinations.

Step Well in Jaipur.

How to reach Jaipur?

Jaipur can be reached by train from all the major surrounding cities (Delhi, Agra, Ajmer and also has direct connections to Mumbai). Bus connections are also really frequent.

Where to sleep in Jaipur?

Moustache Hostel Jaipur is one of the best hostels I have ever stayed in, not exactly near the center but within walking distance of the bus station, the hostel is brand new and really comfortable.

Pushkar

Pushkar is a really popular destination among travelers; it is a sacred city famous for the temple of Brahma, a Hindu god considered the creator of this world who for convoluted reasons has very few temples dedicated to him. Honestly, I found it extremely touristy, it did not impress me all that much but I still think it is worth a stop to break up the journey to Jodhpur.

Pushkar lake.

What to do and see in Pushkar

Pushkar is often seen as a destination for relaxation, and indeed, there isn’t much to do. The small town is built around Pushkar Lake, which is said to have been created by Lord Brahma, making it a popular pilgrimage site. There are 52 ghats surrounding the lake, where ceremonies take place throughout the day.

However, be cautious during these ceremonies, as some monks may try to bless you or mark your forehead with the sole aim of asking for money afterward.

The bazaar is full of souvenirs of all kinds, and there is certainly no shortage of yoga and meditation centers. This is a great spot to watch the sunset, and in case you feel like taking a sunrise hike, the Savitree Temple offers some great views; during the day you could also ride the cable car. 

How to reach Pushkar?

From Jaipur, Jai Ambay technically offers a direct air-conditioned bus for 300 rupees. However, when I arrived in Ajmer, they transferred me to a local bus at their expense because there weren’t enough passengers going to Pushkar.

In general, I think it’s better to take one of the many buses (including government-run RSRTC buses) from Jaipur, Jodhpur, or Bundi to Ajmer, and then hop on a local bus for 20 rupees, which departs frequently for Pushkar. The same applies when leaving Pushkar—take a direct bus to Ajmer first, as there are many more options from there.

If you prefer, there are also train connections, and from the train station, it should still be possible to catch a bus to Pushkar without needing to go to the main bus station.

Where to sleep in Pushkar?

Here again I recommend Moustache, excellent facility and beautiful rooftop terrace overlooking the entire city. Another good alternative might be Zostel. On the other hand, if you are looking for something more luxurious, check out Inn Seventh Heaven.

Bundi

I haven’t been there personally due to weather and time constraints (the city had just experienced heavy rains and was partly flooded), but it’s definitely a popular destination among travelers.

The city is home to more than 50 stepwells, though most are in poor condition, except for Rani Ji Ki Baori (the Queen’s Well). Another notable site is Taragarh Fort, built in the 16th century, and one of the most famous forts in Rajasthan.

How to reach Bundi?

Bus connections to Jaipur and Ajmer are really frequent, 4-5 hours. Bundi also has a train station, but it is not well served. An alternative is the town of Kota, about an hour’s drive away, from where buses run between the two cities about every 15 minutes.

Where to sleep in Bundi?

Bhavyam HomeStay seems to be a good budget option as well as Blue Door, if you are looking for something more luxurious check out Dev Niwas Heritage Hotel.

Jodhpur

Jodhpur is the second-largest city in Rajasthan, located at the gateway to the Thar Desert, and is known as the Blue City due to the many blue-painted houses in the old town.

Sunset over the blue city.

What to do and see in Jodhpur

Out of the many forts in India, Jodhpur’s fort is a must-see and, unlike many others, is well worth the price of admission.

Mehrangarh Fort

Mehrangarh Fort (Google Maps), perched on a hill overlooking the city, is the largest fort in Rajasthan. Built in 1458, it was never conquered in battle.

Unlike other forts I’ve visited in India, the 600-rupee entrance fee includes an excellent audio tour. You can easily spend a couple of hours exploring its various rooms and gardens, while enjoying stunning views of the city below.

Jaswant Thada and Singhoria Hill

Jaswant Thada (Google Maps), the marble tombs of the royal family, is about 1 km from the fort and easily reachable on foot. Admission is only 30 rupees.

I also highly recommend Singhoria Hill (Google Maps), a viewpoint not far from the fort, where you can enjoy spectacular sunset views of the fort and the city. Admission is free, and you simply walk up the steps along the roadside.

Singhoria Hill view.

The Blue City

Tours are offered everywhere, but honestly I think it’s enough to get lost in the alleys of the old city to savor the atmosphere. The whole part of the city at the foot of the fort to the west is really nice, and if you want there is also a side exit from the fort that literally leads into the heart of the blue city. 

I also found this vantage point by randomly walking around, and apparently it is one of the favorite spots on various tours. The center of the newer part of Jodhpur isn’t particularly impressive, but it’s still worth a stroll. The area around the clock tower is quite nice and makes for a pleasant walk.

How to reach Jodhpur?

I reached Jodhpur by state bus (RSRTC) from Ajmer, 205 rupees, about 5 hours. In any case, there are frequent connections from both Ajmer and Jaisalmer. For more distant cities, direct connections are usually at night. The train station is also regularly served with daily direct connections to Delhi in the north and Mumbai in the south.

Where to sleep in Jodhpur?

Again I slept at Moustache Jodhpur and I recommend it; the rooftop terrace, and more generally the hostel, is really nice, with spacious dorms. The only downside is perhaps the location, it is in fact on the opposite side of the blue city; however, I always moved around on foot without any problems and the public bus station is really close by.

The blue city.

Jaisalmer

Also known as the Golden City, it is located in the far west of Rajasthan in the middle of the Thar Desert, a short distance from the border with Pakistan. 

What to do and see in Jaisalmer

Here, too, the fort that dominates the town is the main attraction. In contrast to the other forts in the region, however, this is an inhabited fort: inside is a real inhabited citadel with stores, restaurants, hotels and whatnot.

Jaisalmer fort.

Jaisalmer Fort

Being a citadel (Google Maps), one can enter and visit the fort at will without paying any admission fee, and walking through the narrow streets is really pleasant-although as is often the case in India one is continually invited inside stores and restaurants. There are also numerous viewpoints from which one can see the city below and the desert in the distance.

It is also possible to visit the royal palace located at the entrance to the citadel, I personally did not as I was told there is not much to see and the entrance fee set at 500 rupees is not exactly cheap (including audio tour). 

However, I visited the Jain temple complex also inside the citadel (Google Maps). The temples are famous for the really impressive stone carvings, if you have not seen other such works I think they are worth it. They are open to the public from 8:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. and admission costs 200 rupees.

Haveli

These are a collection of luxurious residences built in the early 1800s for the sons of a wealthy Jaisalmer merchant. Patwon Ki Haveli (Google Maps) is the most impressive of the five and has been converted into a museum, where you can view art and furniture that showcase the opulent lifestyle of the time. Admission is 250 rupees, while entry to the other havelis, all located along the same street, costs 100 rupees each.

Haveli.

Gadisar Lake

This man-made lake (Google Maps) was formerly used as a water supply for the city, but now it is more of a tourist attraction; there are a couple of temples and tombs on the shores and also in the middle of the lake. Don’t expect anything special but it’s definitely worth a trip there to watch the sunrise or sunset while sitting on the ghats. 

The lake is home to plenty of catfish, which come close to the shore, attracted by locals feeding them. It’s nothing major, but certainly something unusual to see. And of course, you’ll find plenty of people eager to sell you fish food! If you’re interested, boat rides on the lake are also available.

Gadisar lake.

Night in the desert

Spending a night in the Thar Desert, often combined with a camel ride, is undoubtedly the most popular tour offered in town. This tour typically includes a visit to Kuldhara, a village about 18 km from Jaisalmer that was mysteriously abandoned in the early 19th century.

The activities and destinations, as well as the level of comfort, vary greatly between tour operators. I was initially planning to go with a company called Desert Man, which had great reviews. Due to the low season, however, there weren’t many people, and the tour was going to cost me 1,750 rupees, with the price dropping to 1,500 if more people joined. In the end, I went with some travelers I met by chance at Lake Gadisar. They didn’t want to do the camel ride for ethical reasons, which wasn’t essential for me, so I joined them more for the company. We paid 1,250 rupees and visited desert villages instead of doing the camel tour.

Whatever your choice, I think spending a night in the desert is absolutely worth it, if only to experience the stunning starry sky!

In conclusion, I strongly recommend enjoying the sunset from this viewpoint, which is located on top of a small hill, there is no entrance fee to pay and the view is really good. Someone might suggest that you go to see the sunset at Vyas Chhatri, which besides being further away also has an entrance fee. I think the spot mentioned above is a much better option.

Kuldhara.

How to reach Jaisalmer?

Jaisalmer can be easily reached by train from Jodhpur or by bus. The train is slightly cheaper and more comfortable, but the travel time is about the same—around 6 hours. I took the state bus for 275 rupees.

If you’re coming from the south (Udaipur), there are night buses. The best company is Hanuman, with an office in Jaisalmer. I paid 800 rupees for a berth by booking directly at their office, compared to 987 rupees on Redbus.

Where to sleep in Jaisalmer?

Once again, I stayed at Moustache in Rajasthan. The hostel is really nice, though it’s located outside the citadel. Inside the city, I was strongly recommended to check out Zostel, which is situated in a beautiful historical building.

Sunrise in the desert.

Udaipur

Udaipur was one of my last stops in India so, as is often the case at the end of my travels, there was a lot of relaxation and very little exploration. That said, here are some of the main attractions in Udaipur.

What to see and do in Udaipur

The palace in Udaipur, built entirely of granite and marble, is undoubtedly the top attraction in the city. If you’re on a tight budget (admission costs 500 rupees) and have already visited other forts and palaces in Rajasthan, you can probably skip it. However, don’t miss the evening view of the palace from Ambrai Ghat—it’s truly breathtaking (Google Maps).

Another interesting site is the Jagdish Temple (Google Maps), with impressive marble carvings and free admission. For panoramic views of the city, visit the Shri Manshapurna Karni Mata Temple (Google Maps), which can be reached on foot for free or by cable car for 110 rupees, and the Monsoon Palace (Google Maps), which has an entrance fee of 300 rupees plus transportation costs, as it’s located outside the city.

I also recommend attending the folklore show held in a theater here (Google Maps). It’s a great experience, costing just 150 rupees, with an additional 150 rupees if you want to take photos. The show takes place every night from 7 to 8 p.m., so try to arrive early as it fills up quickly, even in the off-season.

Udaipur palace.

Kumbhalgarh Fort and Ranakpur Temple

I have not personally been there but this is a popular tour starting in Udaipur. The walls of the Kumbhalgarh fort (Google Maps) are the second longest in the world after those of the Great Wall of China, while the Ranakpur temple (Google Maps) is considered the most spectacular of all Jain temples.

Visiting both sites in one day by public transport seems impossible. An alternative that was recommended to me is to rent a motorcycle for a day tour, or to spend the night in Ranakpur before continuing north to Jaisalmer or Jodhpur. The city isn’t bad at all, and staying there would also help break up the journey.

Finally, if you are looking for a good coffee, Jheel’s Ginger Coffe though really expensive by Indian standards offers a very good quality one and the little terrace by the lake is really nice, I literally spent hours reading there. If on the other hand you are looking for a place to binge on a great Thali (probably the best of my entire trip to India), go to Natraj Dining Hall, again the price is not exactly backpacker friendly but given the “all you can eat” format it is absolutely worth it, I’ve been there twice!

Five-star hotel in the middle of Udaipur Lake.

How to reach Udaipur?

Due to its fairly central location, Udaipur has direct bus connections to all major cities in Rajasthan (Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Ajmer, Jaipur) within 8-10 hours, and to Delhi and Mumbai within 14-16 hours.

By train, there are direct connections only from Ajmer, Jaipur, Delhi, and Mumbai. If you’re traveling from Jaisalmer or Jodhpur, you’ll need to change trains in Ajmer, which results in a significant time loss, making the bus a better option.

Where to sleep in Udaipur?

I stayed at Moustache here as well, and I would absolutely recommend it. Beautiful rooftop terrace, great common areas, clean and spacious rooms. They even have a ping pong table. What more can you ask for?

Folklore show.

NORTH INDIA

When I refer to North India, I’m talking about everything north of Delhi, particularly the Himalayan region spanning Himachal Pradesh and Kashmir, where I spent most of my time during my trip to India.

These regions are extremely cold during the winter, making it advisable to visit between April and September. This period is an excellent alternative to the rest of India, where the heat wave that characterizes the Indian summer on the plains is in full force.

Outside of this period, particularly in the winter and early spring, overland travel can be extremely challenging due to snow, with some roads and passes closed.

Konmaru La pass.

Rishikesh

Located at the foothills of the Himalayas and crossed by the Ganges River, the city is considered the Yoga Capital of the World, becoming extremely famous after the Beatles visited in 1968. 

What to do and see in Rishikesh

I must say that due to the pre-monsoon period (late May) and school vacations in India, I found the city extremely crowded with terrible weather but I imagine the rest of the year is much more livable. 

Yoga and meditation

If you’re not interested in yoga classes (particularly popular are teacher training courses, which I imagine are quite competitively priced), meditation sessions, vegan restaurants, or anything else related to the yogic lifestyle, the city itself doesn’t offer much in my opinion, and you could easily skip it in favor of other destinations. However, if you have the time, it’s worth stopping for a few days before continuing north.

Rishikesh.

Visit the waterfalls

One activity that is not Yoga-related is to visit some waterfalls around the city: Neer Garh (Google Maps), Garud Chatti (Google Maps), Patna (Google Maps) and HimShail (Google Maps). The best way to visit them is by renting a scooter, about 300 rupees per day. 

Sunrise at Maan Kunjauri Devi Temple

Unfortunately, I couldn’t find anyone to share a taxi with (it was too expensive on my own) to reach the Maan Kunjapuri Devi Temple (Google Maps), from where they say the sunrise view is stunning. You can either walk up or walk down the path (mapped out on organic maps), although many people opt to take a cab up and walk down. During the day, it’s accessible by public transport with buses to Gangotri.

To conclude, rafting on the Ganges River is extremely popular and available virtually everywhere in the city. Rishikesh is also often the starting point for trips to the nearby Valley of Flowers.

To conclude, rafting on the Ganges River is extremely popular and offered virtually everywhere in the city. Rishikesh is also often the starting point for visiting the “nearby” valley of flowers.

How to reach Rishikesh?

Rishikesh is just 230 km from Delhi, making it a popular vacation spot for city dwellers, even if only for a weekend. The most practical and direct way to reach Rishikesh is by bus, which takes about 5-7 hours. The train is less convenient in this case, as the nearest station is in Haridwar, from where it’s at least another hour’s drive.

Other destinations with direct bus connections include Jaipur and Agra to the south, and Shimla, Chandigarh, and Manali to the north.

Note: From Rishikesh bus station to Lakshman Jhula (the tourist area), it can take nearly an hour due to traffic, even though it’s only a few kilometers away!

Where to sleep in Rishikesh?

I got sick while in Rishikesh, so I ended up staying much longer than expected and had the chance to try more than a few hostels. The best by far is Blue Jay Hostel, a bit pricey but really clean and modern, highly recommended. I then went to Shalom Backpackers and Hashtag Hostel. Both are not bad but Blue Jay is definitely better.

Chitkul.

Shimla

From Rishikesh many people head directly to Manali but if you plan to visit the Spiti Valley (which I cannot recommend enough and will discuss in detail shortly) I personally think it is much better to head to Shimla and visit Manali afterwards.

What to do and see in Shimla

Shimla is a city that has always been of great importance to India, so much so that in 1864, during the colonial period, it became the summer capital. In fact, the city being located at an altitude of 2,276 meters offers a pleasant climate during the hot Indian summer. After independence it became first the capital of Punjab and then the capital of Himachal Pradesh, of which it remains so today. 

The Mall and The Ridge

These two areas make up the city center (Google Maps), where you can admire the Victorian architecture typical of the colonial period. The areas are highly livable, with plenty of bars, shops, and restaurants—perfect for a leisurely stroll. Another great area to explore is the Lower Bazaar (Google Maps), home to the vegetable market and some incredibly affordable restaurants popular with locals.

Jakhu Hill

Jakhu Hill (Google Maps), with its namesake temple situated 2,445 meters above sea level, is the highest point in the city and offers a beautiful 360-degree view, weather permitting. It can be easily reached on foot (which I highly recommend) or by taking the cable car (Google Maps). A one-way ticket costs 295 rupees, while a round trip is about 550 rupees—quite expensive for the short distance covered, in my opinion.

Hikkim, Spiti Valley.

How to reach Shimla?

I arrived in Shimla by bus from the north, which was quite an unusual ride, but the most spectacular way to reach the city is by train from the south. First, you take a 4-7 hour train ride from Delhi to Kalka, where you can board the mountain train that connects Kalka to Shimla. This section of the railway, recently named a UNESCO World Heritage site, passes through 103 tunnels and offers breathtaking views.

Alternatively, you can reach the city by bus. There are connections to and from Shimla with direct routes from virtually all surrounding cities, including Delhi to the south.

Where to sleep in Shimla?

The town, extremely popular for local tourists, for some strange reason is not at all popular with foreign travelers and this is evident from the small number of hostels in town. I slept at the Thira Shimla, a bit outside the center in a really strange location but the facility is cozy and the staff really nice.The alternative is the YMCA Shimla, the location is better but it is more expensive and the reviews are worse.

Kibber, Spiti Valley.

Spiti Valley

The Spiti Valley is a cold mountain desert in the heart of the Himalayas, known for its surreal landscapes, ancient monasteries, and an incredibly hospitable population with strong Tibetan influences. The Spiti Valley region was undoubtedly one of the highlights of my trip to India.

As mentioned earlier, most people choose to visit the region starting from Manali or Shimla, but in my opinion, Shimla is the ideal starting point. At the beginning of the summer season, both passes (Rohtang 3,978 m and Kunzum La 4,590 m), which you must cross if entering from the north, may still be closed due to snow. On the other hand, the road to the Spiti Valley from the south is reportedly open year-round. Additionally, starting from Shimla allows for a much slower altitude climb, which is ideal, especially if you’re coming directly from the plains. N.b. Rohtang Pass can now be bypassed thanks to the newly constructed tunnel.

What you see below is the ‘classic itinerary’ for the region. While it’s possible to spend months exploring this area, this route should keep you occupied for at least 2-3 weeks.

To visit the region, particularly near the Tibetan border, foreigners need an ‘Inner Line Permit,’ which costs 400 rupees (200 for the permit and 200 for the agency). It appears that obtaining the permit independently is not possible. The permit is valid for 14 days and can be obtained in Shimla, Rekong Peo (which I recommend), and Kaza.

Note: The itinerary described here is based on public transportation (as I did), but if preferred, numerous tours or private drivers can be arranged from either Manali or Shimla. Another popular option among travelers is renting a motorcycle. However, given the road conditions, I recommend this only for those with some experience. I also did a fair amount of hitchhiking, mostly around Kaza, and found it to be a convenient and reliable option. Of course, tours and shared taxis/jeeps are available and can easily be arranged from Manali.

DIY itinerary in the Spiti Valley

The Spiti Valley officially begins at Tabo, but I recommend spending a couple of days between Sangla and Chitkul before continuing on to Reckong Peo. If you want to break up the journey further from Shimla, Narkanda and Rampur seem like interesting stops.

I’ve tried to gather as much information as possible about the buses, but I strongly encourage you to double-check the details when you’re there. If you’re looking for an up-to-date site on bus schedules and pass status, take a look here; there are many useful articles.

As for lodging, there are virtually no hostels in these areas—only guesthouses. I was fortunate to travel with a group of friends, so we always shared a room, although prices remain quite affordable even when solo.

Dhankar.

Sangla

Starting from Shimla, I recommend taking the 7:30 bus, with the next one at 10:30. The ride takes about 9-10 hours and costs 530 rupees, offering scenic views for most of the journey!

You’ll arrive in Sangla in the late afternoon or evening, get a room for the night. There are several options around the main square, and prices are generally similar. The next day, I suggest waking up early and visiting nearby Kamru village on foot. Walk up to the fort (Google Maps) and then return to Sangla in time to catch the 12:00 bus to Chitkul. It departs from the main square and costs 48 rupees, with a ride lasting about 2 hours.

Chitkul

In Chitkul, I recommend spending no more than one or two nights. It’s a small mountain village at 3,450 m, the highest point in the Sangla Valley accessible by road. Exploring the village itself takes just a couple of hours, but there are some great short hikes you can do. For instance, you can take the trail up the mountain behind the village, which offers breathtaking views of the entire valley. Alternatively, you can follow the road to the military base, which marks the limit for foreigners. The border with Tibet is not far from there.

Kalpa.

Reckong Peo and Kalpa

I stayed two nights in Chitkul and took the bus to Reckong Peo at 6:30 a.m. (120 rupees, 3.5 hours). I believe there’s also a bus in the afternoon at 1:30 p.m. if you’d prefer to spend just one night in Chitkul and have the morning to explore. However, I’m not sure if you’d make it in time for the permit office, which is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Once you reach Reckong Peo, I recommend immediately getting your ‘Inner Line Permit.’ All the agencies work together, so one is as good as the other. I did mine at The Monk Travels: fill out the form, pay 400 rupees, and in less than an hour you should have your permit. Reckong Peo is also the last place with ATMs before you reach Kaza, where machines don’t always have cash.

After getting your permit, I suggest heading up to Kalpa. It’s a charming village that overlooks Reckong Peo, offering stunning views of the valley and surrounding peaks. It’s a great place to spend the day before heading back down to Reckong Peo the next day to catch the bus. Alternatively, you could go up to Kalpa in the afternoon and then return to Reckong Peo to spend the night.

Every hour or so there are buses between Kalpa and Reckong Peo, 20 rupees, about half an hour’s ride, departure from here. Keep your permit and passport handy for the trip and take the direct bus to Kaza. The station is located here, try to arrive a little early and buy your ticket to secure a seat. One bus at 6:30 am and one at 1 pm cost 195 INR, 4-5 hours. On Sunday mornings the first bus down to Reckong Peo from Kalpa is around 10:00, we did not know this so we had to walk down to the station!

N.b. In case you want to skip Sangla and Chitkul, there are direct buses from both Shimla and Manali to Reckong Peo (and vice versa). I think it is at least a 16-hour bus ride either way.

Nako.

Nako

I recommend spending the night in Nako and continuing the next day, but if you are on a tight schedule you could take the bus from Reckong Peo in the morning, spend the afternoon in Nako, and then continue to Tabo on the 1 p.m. bus from Reckong Peo.

In Nako, you can visit the monastery (which is nothing extraordinary), stroll through the narrow streets of the village’s oldest part, where it feels like time has stood still for centuries. You can also walk around the small pond. For a stunning view, head up to the prayer wheel at the top of the village. From there, you can follow the trail (marked on organic maps) and enjoy a few hours of hiking.

We slept at Amar Guesthouse, which was not bad.

Tabo

After spending the night in Nako, take the same bus as the previous day, which departs from Reckong Peo at 6:30 a.m. and arrives around 11:30 a.m. It continues on to Tabo for 120 rupees, a journey of about 3 hours. During this stretch, your permit will be checked for the second and final time.

Tabo Monastery (Google Maps), founded in 996, is considered the oldest continuously inhabited Buddhist monastery in India and the Himalayan region, making it a must-visit. For a short walk, you can climb up to the meditation caves along the mountainside, which offer stunning views of the valley and village.

Our guesthouse wasn’t anything exceptional, so I recommend heading to Kunzom Top for meals instead — the food is great and the prices are good.

Il monastero di Tabo.

Dhankar

The old monastery of Dhankar (Google Maps) is one of the most impressive I’ve ever seen, perched on cone-shaped rock formations and overlooking the valley from above, at the confluence of the Pin and Spiti rivers.

Unfortunately, Dhankar is about 7 km off the road between Tabo and Kaza and isn’t accessible by public transportation. What we did was take the bus from Tabo at 9:00 a.m., and in about an hour, we were dropped off at the base of the road leading to the monastery (42 rupees).

From there, we hitchhiked for about half an hour until a couple of French gentlemen gave three of us a ride. Two others and I waited a bit longer without success, so we ended up walking. The distance isn’t too far, but the altitude can be challenging. If you plan to walk, I recommend taking the shortcuts that cut through the switchbacks, which are mapped on organic maps.

Explore the village and monastery for the rest of the day while on the morning of the next day I recommend going up to the lake (Google Maps), the view and the first light of day hitting the valley is something fantastic.  

In Dhankar I recommend sleeping at the guesthouse at the new monastery, built opposite the old one: from the terrace you have excellent views of the village and the old monastery, and the food is good as are the prices.

Dhankar.

Kaza

The next day, we walked down to the main road to catch the same bus from Tabo, arriving around 10:00 a.m. after about an hour (50 rupees).

Kaza is the main town in the Spiti Valley, and if you’re lucky, you might even find an internet connection here. During my visit, there were only a couple of places with Wi-Fi, one of them being Travelers Shed.

You can decide whether to spend the night in Kaza or continue to one of the nearby villages. Kunzum Homestay offers private rooms at bargain prices and is a solid choice.

As for transportation in and around Kaza, if you want to visit the surrounding villages, there are essentially three buses leaving from Kaza every day. One bus follows the Ki Gompa – Kibber – Chicham route, stays overnight, and returns to Kaza the next morning. Another bus goes to Langza – Hikkim – Komic, spending the night and returning the next morning. Lastly, there’s a bus to Mud in Pin Valley, following the same pattern. These buses serve as a way for villagers to travel to Kaza for school, shopping, etc., and then return home in the evening.

Kibber.

Pin Valley

Due to time constraints I had to skip Pin Valley but if you have time, from what I was told, it is really worth a visit. One itinerary might be as follows: take the bus from Kaza to Mud, the village dominates the valley and offers a beautiful view, spend the night here and then the next morning, when the bus returns to Kaza, get off at Sagnam which you can use as a base to explore the villages of Kungri and Ka while also doing some hiking. 

In Sagnam I had been strongly recommended a guesthouse that is located at about this spot, the name should be “Shanta Rakshita.”

A multi-day trek connects the Parvati Valley (which I will talk about later) to the Pin Valley, there are no villages along the way so you have to bring your own food and camping gear. I met a Polish couple who told me it was beautiful although in some sections it was really hard.

Key Gompa 

This is probably the most iconic place in the entire valley. The monastery (Google Maps) located on top of a hill overlooking the valley is absolutely incredible, to date one of the most spectacular places I have ever seen.

Take the Key – Kibber – Chicham bus that leaves Kaza at 5 p.m. and takes about 45 minutes to reach the monastery, the cost is 30 rupees. The return has roughly these times: Chicham 6:30, Kibber 7:30, Key Gompa 8:30.

Take the path up the mountain for the best views of the monastery, and the next day attend the 8:00 a.m. prayer. 

During my visit, the guesthouse at the monastery was being renovated so we had to sleep in the one located near the parking lot at the foot of the building. 

Key Gompa.

Kibber

It’s located a few kilometers from Key Monastery. This is where I said goodbye to my fellow adventurers, who hitchhiked back to the valley in the afternoon, while I walked the next day to the even more remote village of Tashigang.

To reach Kibber, after attending the morning prayer, we walked to the intersection leading to the monastery and hitched a ride. Within ten minutes, a group of Indian tourists picked us up. Alternatively, you could wait for the bus from the previous day.

There’s not much to do in Kibber. I just wandered around the village, but theoretically, you can walk to Chicham village or hike up to Dangmachan Peak.

I stayed at Norling Home, which had a nice common area with views of the village, clean rooms, and great food.

Kibber.

Tashigang

The small village of Tashigang, home to just 22 people during the summer, is literally off the grid. However, it does boast the highest polling station in the world. While it’s not accessible by public transportation, there is a dirt road that can be traveled by motorized vehicles. I decided to walk there from Kibber.

It took me just under 3 hours walking briskly, with amazing views along the way. The only guesthouse in the village charges 600 rupees, including three meals. The elderly couple running it speaks only about 10 words of English, but they communicate warmly and truly make you feel like part of the family—a wonderful experience!

There’s not much to do in the village, but as usual, I set off to explore some trails in the surrounding area. Otherwise, you can simply enjoy the views and the peace that comes with being surrounded by the Himalayan peaks.

If I understand correctly, a car goes down to Kaza nearly every morning around 8:00 a.m. However, I chose to take the trail from Tashigang to Key Monastery, which took about two hours. From there, I caught the bus down to Kaza. If you choose to walk, be sure to ask for directions in the small village of Gette, as the path plotted on organic maps is inaccurate. It took me a while to find the correct entrance to the trail.

Tashigang.

Komic

Take the Langza – Hikkim – Komic Bus that leaves Kaza at 5 p.m. and takes about an hour and a half to reach Komic, the cost is 48 rupees. 

The village of Komic at 4,587 meters above sea level is the highest in the world reached by a paved road. I spent the night at the Jordan In World Homestay, 600 rupees for the room with dinner, breakfast and packed lunch, fantastic experience, three different generations live under one roof, the man who deals with guests speaks excellent English and is extremely friendly, the food delicious.

Hikkim

The next day, I recommend walking to the nearby village of Hikkim, home to the world’s highest post office at 4,400 meters (Google Maps). From there, if you wanted, you could continue on to Langza, spend the night, and take the bus back to Kaza the following day. However, due to time constraints, I chose to hitchhike back to Kaza, skipping Langza.

Highest post office in the world.

Chandratal Lake 

The last major attraction before leaving the Spiti Valley. To get there by public transport you have to take the Kaza-Manali bus that leaves every day at 4:30 am. Then you have three options: stop at Kunzum Pass (Google Maps) where you should arrive around 8:30 a.m. (140 rupees) and walk for about 3 hours along the trail (mapped out on organic maps) which is not particularly hard but given the altitude it is not really a walk in the park; in any case I strongly recommend it, incredible views! 

Once the trail joins the road you can hitchhike to the area where all the campsites are located where you can spend the night (this point).

If you don’t want to hike, stay aboard the bus and get off where the dirt road to the lake begins (this point) and walk along the road to the campsites, the road compared to the trail is largely flat and shorter in distance but the views are not as scenic, 2 hours or so. If you want you can try hitchhiking. 

Or, if you don’t feel like walking, you can stay aboard the bus to the small village of Batal from where a cab can be arranged. 

Chandratal lake.

Whatever your choice, spend the night at one of the many campsites. There are options for all budgets, from simple tents with a mat on the ground to actual tents complete with a bed and private bathroom. We had opted for the cheapest option by far, paying 1,000 rupees each with lunch, dinner, and breakfast (after haggling) but the guys at the campsite befriended us over lunch and gave us a free upgrade by giving us one of the tents with a private bed and bathroom! 

Spend the rest of the day at the lake, if you’re not tired of walking, instead of following the dirt road to the lake, you can take a really nice path that runs parallel to the road, it’s not marked on organic maps but it’s really easy to follow, it was recommended to us by the guys at the campsite. Alternatively, you should have no problem hitchhiking, we walked and hitchhiked back.  

The next day, be at the intersection by 8:40 a.m. at the latest so you can board the bus from Kaza, the same one you took the previous day. From here it takes about 6 hours to reach Manali, 207 rupees.  

N.b. If you plan to continue to Leh by bus, I recommend that you get off at this point and wait for the bus bound for Keylang.

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The “road” from Lake Chandratal to the Rothang Pass.

Manali

Manali is probably the most popular “hill station” in all of India. At 2,050 meters above sea level, the town offers refreshment from the hot Indian summer, and especially during June, the local school vacations, it is literally overrun with tourists. 

What to do and see in Manali

First of all, it’s important to note that the town is essentially divided into two parts: the old section, known as ‘Old Manali,’ and the newer part. The old part, with its characteristic buildings and narrow alleys typical of mountain villages, is objectively the more beautiful, but it’s also far more touristy.

There is not much to do in the city, the only real attraction being the Hadimba Devi Temple, there are, however, many restaurants and bars, and for those interested, marijuana grows wild around here and is practically legal; the nightlife is also not bad at all.  

I particularly liked Rocky’s Cafe, it overlooks the town from above and you have a beautiful view of the whole valley; another much more spartan but nice cafe where you can have a chai and read a good book is the River Valley View Cafe.

Hadimba Devi Temple.

Jogini Falls and Vashisht

This is a lovely hike that can be done in a day starting from Manali on foot. Begin the trail near Rocky’s Cafe and head towards the village of Goshal. From there, cross the river to reach Jogini Waterfall. The trail, marked on Organic Maps, is pleasant and easy to follow. You can hike up to the base of the waterfall (definitely worth it!), and then continue on to Vashisht, where there are hot springs if you’re interested, though I personally didn’t find them too tempting. From Vashisht, you can return to Manali by tuk-tuk.

N.B. If you prefer, you could use Vashisht as a base instead of Manali. There are a couple of hostels here, and the village is much quieter and less touristy.

Jogini falls.

Naggar

I have not been there personally but it seems to be a good idea for an excursion starting from Manali, or as a less touristy alternative where you can stay a couple of days. It is an ancient village that was the capital of the region and preserves some historic buildings such as the castle and a couple of temples.

Finally, Manali is the starting point for several treks, the most popular being probably Beas Kund Trek (2-3 days) and Chandrakhani Pass Trek (5-6 days). Another very popular trip is to Rohtang Pass, but I don’t recommend it. It’s just a busy mountain pass, and you’ll spend hours in the car. The pass is almost always covered in clouds, so it doesn’t offer spectacular views. 

How to reach Manali?

There are direct buses from many cities, including night buses from Delhi and Rishikesh to the south, about 14 hours. Other destinations are Shimla, Dharamsala and Leh (stopping at Keylong).  

N.b. There are two bus stations in Manali, the first in the center is used by government buses (HRTC) while the one for private buses is a few kilometers south at this location.

Where to sleep in Manali?

I spent quite a bit of time in Manali trying more than a few hostels. Madpackers Manali is my favorite, in a quiet area with a nice garden and an included breakfast that changes daily, not far away is another nice hostel, Orchards House. Folklore is a good alternative for value for money. Finally, Alt Life, though a bit out of the way and slightly more expensive, came highly recommended to me.

Parvati Valley

Parvati Valley lies about halfway between Manali and Shimla, following the banks of the Parvati River. The valley is particularly popular with Israelis, to the point that Kasol, the main village in the region, is often nicknamed “Mini Israel”.

What to see and do in and around Kasol 

The entire valley is known for its relaxed atmosphere and the ease with which hashish and marijuana can be found, but I assure you, there’s much more to it than that. I highly recommend a visit to anyone, not just those interested in cannabis.

Rashol

The small village of Rashol is accessible via a trek starting from Kasol. Though the trail is relatively short, it’s quite steep, so the ascent can take up to three hours. However, the view from the top is well worth the effort. The trail is marked on Organic Maps and is especially stunning during the rhododendron bloom, which occurs between March and July depending on the altitude (All Trails).

Pulga.

Manikaran

Also starting from Kasol, you can reach the village of Manikaran at the end of a mostly flat trek, which runs along the opposite side of the river from the road. It’s a short and pleasant walk, taking about an hour. Once in the village, you can explore the market and visit the hot springs.

If you’d rather not walk back, there are frequent buses to Kasol (Google Maps).

Manala

This truly unique village is especially famous among hashish enthusiasts, as it is the home of the renowned ‘Malana cream,’ an exceptionally potent hashish sold on nearly every corner of the village.

Another reason to visit Malana is the distinct social structure of the locals, who consider themselves to belong to a ‘higher’ caste. Non-Hindus, like myself, cannot have direct contact with the villagers when exchanging items; you must place them on the ground first. People will avoid physical contact, even dodging you on the street, and entering buildings is prohibited for outsiders.

Getting to the village isn’t straightforward, as there is no public transportation. The most practical option is to take a shared cab from Jari, which is easily reached by bus from Kasol. The round trip costs 1,600 rupees, with the driver waiting three hours at the start of the short path leading to the village. I shared the taxi with two other travelers, as I don’t think it’s worth the cost alone. Alternatively, you could try hitchhiking, but there’s very little traffic along that road.

Khirganga.

Kalga, Tulga, Pulga and Tosh

These four villages are located where the road ends, about 15 km from Kasol. The road terminates at Barshani, and from there, you must continue on foot, except for Tosh, which can be reached by taxi.

All four villages offer an extremely laid-back atmosphere, far from civilization, making them ideal for a couple of days of complete relaxation. I personally chose Kalga and stayed four nights at Blue Star Guesthouse, which had a great ambiance and excellent food. During the day, I visited Tulga and Pulga, though the latter is quite touristy. I didn’t visit Tosh, but it’s apparently the most popular and touristy of the four villages.

Whichever village you choose, I recommend visiting the nearby Kheerganga hot springs (Google Maps), which can be reached via a 2-3 hour trek, depending on your starting point (All Trails). The hot springs, overlooking the mountains, are truly unique, although the area has become quite popular, with campsites everywhere at the base. Despite this, I still think the hike is worth it. Many people choose to spend the night at Kheerganga (hence all the campsites), but I opted to return to Kalga the same day.

There are several buses each day running between Kasol and Barshani, costing 40 rupees. When you’re ready to leave the valley, you can take the Barshaini-Kullu bus for 110 rupees.

How to reach the Parvati valley?

From Manali there are at least a couple of buses a day going to Kasol. I arrived at the station late and had to do Manali – Kullu 70 rupees, Kullu – Bunthat 15 rupees and finally Bunthat – Kasol 62 rupees. I never waited more than 10 minutes between buses, about 6 hours. There are also direct buses from Delhi and Chandigarh.

Where to sleep in Kasol?

I slept at Hostel Cozy beds, nothing exceptional but all in all I recommend it, quiet location slightly outside the center on the banks of the river.

Kalga.

Dharamsala, McLeod Ganj and Bhagsu

Dharamsala essentially came into being in 1959 with the arrival of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government, who fled their country following the Chinese invasion. It remains the official residence of the Dalai Lama today, although he is reportedly not around often.

McLeod Ganj and Bhagsu are two neighboring villages that travelers frequently choose as their base. Bhagsu, in particular, is home to nearly all the hostels and has a laid-back, hippie vibe where hashish and marijuana are widely tolerated. There are several great cafés and restaurants where you can relax for a few days, as well as plenty of opportunities to take classes in everything from cooking to yoga and massage.

What to do and see in Dharamsala, McLeod Ganj and Bhagsu

As just mentioned, many people base themselves in Bhagsu and literally do not leave the village but there are at least a couple of interesting activities to do nearby.

The Dalai Lama’s temple and the Museum of Tibet

A visit to Dharamsala cannot be considered complete without entering the Dalai Lama’s temple, however, do not expect who knows what wonder, the temple is in fact in my opinion far from impressive. What really impressed me, however, is the nearby Museum of Tibet; admission is free.

Triund

This village/camp is about 3 hours from Bhagsu and is reached at the end of a pleasant trail (All Trails) that is really easy to follow, a little less so if you decide instead to take one of the shortcuts from the center of Bhagsu that then join the main trail.

Once you get to Triund if you feel like it you can continue to the top of Triund Hill (at least another hour and a half) otherwise just relax, enjoy the view and then head back to the valley. If you want you can spend the night here, it seems to be really popular especially among locals, if you don’t have camping equipment it should be possible to rent it locally.

From Triund, if you wanted, you could continue through the mountains and Indrahar Pass to the village of Lamu, completing a multi-day trek for which I have no information about but I think it is advisable to have a guide.

Triund.

Galu Waterfall and Bhagsu Waterfall

These are two other nice and decidedly less strenuous excursions, especially Bhagsu Waterfall, which is about 20 minutes from the village and, though often crowded, is still worth taking a tour.

Gallu Waterfall, on the other hand, is a bit out of the way and can be reached in an hour or so starting from Bhagsu (All Trails), not exactly impressive but much less crowded and absolutely a nice place to spend a few hours relaxing.

How to reach Dharamsala?

From Manali there are night buses, about 8 hours. There are also direct buses from Delhi, 12 to 13 hours. N.b. These buses belong to private companies that cannot use the government company station in the center, you will therefore be dropped off at this point where there is a gas station that serves as a bus station. From here, I walked all the way to Bhagsu but it is quite a hike uphill, alternatively you can take a taxi. During the day apparently there are local minibuses that go back and forth but the night buses come really early so if you don’t want to walk a taxi is the only option.

Where to sleep in Dharamsala?

As mentioned earlier, virtually no one sleeps in Dharamsala, all the hostels are in little Bhagsu where I recommend Eevolve Dharamkot – An Eco Hostel and The Hosteller Mcleodganj, Upper Bhagsu.

Nako, Spiti Valley.

Leh

The capital of the Leh Ladakh Territory is an ideal base for exploring the region and escaping the monsoons that affect much of India during the summer. The high season here runs from May to October, with pleasant weather and minimal rainfall during this period. However, keep in mind that if you’re planning to reach Leh by road from Manali, the route typically only opens around June due to snow conditions.

What to do and see in Leh 

There are at least a couple of sites in town worth visiting but as mentioned above, Leh is best used as a base for exploring the region, which many travelers decide to do aboard the iconic “Enfields.”

Among the sites in town I absolutely recommend the Shanti Stupa at sunset, the view over Leh is really worth it and once the sun goes down the lights of the stupa are turned on, really impressive. The iconic Leh Palace, prettier from the outside than from the inside (or so I was told), the entrance costs 300 rupees so I decided to skip it but you can still go up and have a look at it from the outside before continuing to the Tsemo Maitreya temple from where you overlook the palace from above, here the entrance costs 100 rupees.

Of the hundreds of monasteries in the region, the most iconic are probably Thiksay, located along the main road and can be easily reached by bus, Spituk also easily reached by bus while Likir and Hemis require a combination of bus+hitchhiking if you do not want to rent a motorcycle/taxi.

There are also numerous excursions and treks that can be organized from Leh, below I list two options that I have personally chosen and would recommend.

Shanti Stupa.

Trekking Markha Valley

This trek has gained significant popularity in recent years, and it’s truly a rewarding experience. There are multiple variations, ranging from the shorter version I completed in four days and three nights to longer versions that can easily stretch to six or more days.

A blog reader who completed the trek starting from Zingchen in the summer of 2023 provided some updated information:

• Lodging costs along the trek have increased, with the usual package (dinner, breakfast, packed lunch, and an overnight stay) now costing 1,500 rupees in most villages, except in Nimaling, where it’s 2,000 rupees.
• Road extensions have been made in two areas, meaning that parts of the trek now follow dirt roads. Specifically, from Zinchen to Rumbak, you walk on a dirt road. From Rumbak to Yurutse, it’s a mix of dirt road and trail, although the newly constructed dirt road had already collapsed in several places when we passed, so it may not last long. From Yurutse to Skyu, it’s all trail and truly beautiful. From Skyu to Sara, a dirt road has been created at the bottom of the valley with wooden bridges crossing the river. This applies to August, though in earlier months, fording the river may be necessary. After Sara, patches of road appear but are unstable and only passable by serious off-road vehicles, up until Markha. From Markha to Chogdo, it’s purely a trail again.
• For those opting for the short version of the trek, we saw several people driving off-road to Markha, reducing the trek to three days and two nights.

The main difference lies in the starting point. If you begin in Spituk, you’ll spend the first two or three days walking through Gandala Pass at 4,970 meters to reach the Markha Valley. After crossing the pass, the route follows the same path as the four-day trek.

Trekking in the Markha valley starting from Spituk

In case you are interested in this version, technically you can arrange a cab from Spituk to “Zingchen” where the road ends and save a day’s walk. The next day you will reach Rumbak and from there tackle the Gandala Pass before reaching Shingo where you will spend the night.

From Shingo you rejoin the short version of the trek and can reach Sara in the day, from here on you can follow the route described below.

Trekking in the Markha valley starting from Chilling/Skyu

This is the shortest and most popular version of the trek that I personally completed in four days and three nights (All Trails). 

Day 1, Leh – Skyu – Sara

If you are lucky like me, you can take the only weekday bus to Skyu that leaves on Sundays at 9:00 a.m. from the local bus station, about 3 hours, 140 rupees. The alternative is to arrange a private taxi. Some people decide to get off at Chilling instead of going all the way to Skyu, in my opinion it is not worth it, you walk down the road and the view is basically the same.

From Skiu to Sara is about 2-3 hours. In Sara I recommend sleeping at the Guesthouse which is up on the right, the lady is extremely nice. Accommodation, dinner and breakfast and packed lunch for 1,200 rupees.

Hankar.

Day 2, Sara – Hankar 

From Sara to Hankar is a 5-7 hour walk, if you want to break up the day you could spend the night in Markha. In Hankar I recommend continuing to the end of the village where there is a really nice guesthouse complete with solar panels for hot water. Again 1,200 rupees for dinner, breakfast and packed lunch.

Day 3, Hankar – Nimaling 

From Hankar to Nimaling, also known as ‘Tent Restaurant‘ on maps.me, it takes about 3-4 hours. As you gain altitude, the scenery becomes truly spectacular. The landscape transitions from a nearly desert-like valley to stunning views of snow-capped Himalayan giants. However, the altitude starts to take its toll, and some trekkers choose to break up the ascent by stopping at Tachungtse.

Neither Tachungtse nor Nimaling have guesthouses, but both offer well-equipped campsites with everything you’ll need. In Nimaling, the cost is 1,400 rupees, which covers the tent, dinner, breakfast, and a packed lunch.

Konmaru La pass. 

Day 4, Nimaling – Chogdo – Leh 

Nimaling is located at the base of Kongmaru La Pass. It takes about an hour to reach the top, where you’ll be rewarded with a stunning 360-degree view of the surrounding mountains. From the pass, it’s a three-to-four-hour descent along a stream that must be crossed several times. In some places, the exact crossing points can be unclear, but nothing too challenging.

Upon reaching Chogdo, most travelers arrange a cab in advance for the return trip to Leh. I, however, asked around and found a couple of trekkers who offered me a free ride in their private jeep. If you opt for a shared cab, the cost is around 2,800 rupees, divided among the passengers.

Alternatively, you can continue to Shang Sumdo, spend the night there, and take the local bus to Leh the next morning.

In conclusion, the trail is easy to follow, plotted on maps.me, and as many trekkers suggest, you can simply ‘follow the horse poop.’ The only challenge, at least in 2019, is that some sections of the river require fording ‘shoes in hand’ as there are no bridges. That said, it’s entirely possible to complete the trek independently, and it’s well worth it!

Groundhogs along the trek.

Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso Lake

The two tours to Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso Lake are offered separately, but if you’re on a tight budget, Pangong Tso can technically be visited using public transportation. However, if it’s within your budget, I recommend joining a “shared taxi tour” that covers both places.

Instead of a formal tour, most agencies offer a shared taxi service over three days. On the first day, you’ll travel to Khardung La Pass at 5,359 meters, then descend into Nubra Valley. There, you can visit Diskit Monastery, followed by a trip to Hunder for sand dunes (where you can take a camel ride) before heading to the village for the night. My travel companions had already booked their accommodation, but I stayed at a lovely guesthouse with a private room, dinner, and breakfast for 800 rupees.

On the second day, you’ll make the 6-7 hour drive to Pangong Tso Lake, passing through a surreal landscape. You’ll spend the rest of the day by the lake, which straddles the India-China border, and then return to Leh the next morning via Changla Pass, at 5,360 meters. At the lake, I paid 1,000 rupees for a room with dinner and breakfast. Our group also decided to pay an extra 50 rupees each (300 in total) to visit Hemis Monastery before heading back to Leh.

Khardung La pass.

The price of the shared taxi for three days is 19,000 rupees, with a maximum of 6 people. I went to a couple of agencies and found one with a full car, so I paid just 3,200 rupees. Additionally, you’ll need to pay 600 rupees for the Inner Line permit, which is required to visit both Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso Lake. This permit can only be arranged through an agency and cannot be done independently.

If you’re interested in a DIY trip to Pangong Tso, there’s a complete guide here. However, note that there are only two direct buses to the lake from Leh, running on Saturday and Sunday, with return buses on Sunday and Monday. The cost is around 500 rupees for the round trip.

Pangong Tso lake.

How to reach Leh?

Many travelers choose to fly to Leh to avoid the long overland journey, but if you prefer a more budget-friendly option like I do, Leh can be reached by road either from Manali via Keylong or from Srinagar in the west.

If you’re taking the government bus (HRTC) from Manali, you’ll first need to catch the bus to Keylong, which departs about once an hour, with the last bus leaving in the afternoon. I took the 1:00 pm bus, which cost 208 rupees and took about 6-7 hours. After spending the night in Keylong, you can continue on the next morning with the same bus, which leaves at 5:00 am for the 14-hour journey to Leh, costing 550 rupees. It’s a long but breathtakingly scenic trip.

A more convenient (but pricier) option is the HPTDC tour bus, which costs 2,700 rupees. This includes an overnight stay in a dormitory, dinner, and breakfast at the HPTDC hotel in Chandrabhaga. Additionally, minibuses or shared taxis can be arranged through any agency in Manali, but these come at a significantly higher cost.

If you’re returning from Leh, the bus to Keylong departs at 3:30 am. For travel to and from Srinagar, the cheapest option is the JKSRTC government bus, which takes two days with a stop in Kargil (470 rupees). There are also semi-deluxe and deluxe options available (670 to 1,058 rupees). Private minibuses run overnight, costing between 1,200 to 1,500 rupees.”

Leh palace.

Where to sleep in Leh?

Personally, very tired from the long bus ride I took a private room at the Jan Palace hotel where I ended up staying for my entire stay in Leh, unremarkable but great location. They gave me a back room for a bargain price.

Srinagar

Note: I didn’t visit Srinagar because I was in Leh in August 2019, just as the protests began, and the city was literally cut off from the rest of the world. This has happened before, as the political situation in the region has been unstable for years. I recommend doing thorough research before visiting the city.”

“Srinagar is the summer capital of the state of Jammu and Kashmir and the largest city in the Kashmir region.

Hunder dunes in the Nubra Valley.

What to do and see in Srinagar

The city is mostly used as a base for visiting the nearby valleys where trekking is one of the main activities, but the city also offers several interesting attractions such as various gardens. The main ones are: Shalimar Bagh Mughal, Nishat Mughal, the Tulip Garden (festival is held in April) and finally Chashma Shahi. For a great sunset view of the lake and city, go up to Pari Mahal Palace. Another really popular viewpoint is the Shankaracharya temple.

Another highlight in the city is visiting the lakes that surround it. Many people decide to rent a boat for the day and visit Dal Lake and Nigeen where every morning you can visit the floating market.

Finally, visit the city’s historic center, where there are several important mosques such as Jamia Masjid, the largest in Kashmir, and Shah Hamdan whose interiors are particularly well maintained.  

In conclusion, as mentioned earlier the possibilities for trekking are almost endless, any agency in town should offer several options.

How to reach Srinagar?

As mentioned earlier, the JKSRTC offers buses from Leh that reach Srinagar in two days, with an overnight stop in Kargil. Alternatively, private companies provide direct buses. From Jammu to the south, it’s a 12-hour bus ride.

Jammu

The plan was to visit Jammu after Srinagar, but for obvious reasons, I had to skip it. That said, the city serves as the winter capital of the state of Jammu and Kashmir, alternating with Srinagar.

What to do and see in Jammu

Jammu is known as the city of temples, the main ones being Raghunath, Ranbireshwar, Bawey Wali Mata and Maha Maya. Other places of interest are Bagh-E-Bahu and the Amar Mahal Museum.

How to reach Jammu?

Jammu is well connected by train to the south; Amritsar is about 5 hours away, while Delhi is around 10 hours. If you plan to continue north to Srinagar, it’s preferable to take the train to Udhampur and then continue by bus. Alternatively, there are direct buses to and from Srinagar, which take about 12 hours.

The buddha of Diskit Monastery in the Nubra Valley.

Amritsar

The city is considered the spiritual and cultural capital of the Sikh religion. The city is not chaotic, and the small center is a pleasant place to walk around.

What to see and do in Amritsar

The Golden Temple, or Harmandir Sahib, located in the city center, is the holiest site in Sikhism and definitely worth a visit. Admission is free, and it’s especially impressive at sunset when it’s illuminated and seems to come to life. I haven’t personally done it, but an interesting experience is to sleep in the temple dormitories. Both food and lodging are completely free, though it’s customary to leave an offering.”

“Another temple worth visiting, though not as spectacular, is the Durgiana Temple. Located slightly outside the city center, it’s much less crowded than the Golden Temple, and I recommend visiting it as well.

Golden Temple.

The ceremony at Wagah Border

The Wagah (Pakistani side) or Attari (Indian side) border is the only open border between the two countries, and a special ceremony takes place here every day. The border is open from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., and around 3:00 p.m., a grand closing ceremony begins. During this event, the border forces of both countries parade in traditional uniforms and put on a show for spectators watching from the stands.

I attended the ceremony from the Indian side, but you’re welcome to watch from the Pakistani side as well. Admission is free, and while I don’t support the rivalry between the two nations, which I believe doesn’t need to be amplified, I still think this ceremony is something you shouldn’t miss.”

Hostels often arrange shared tuk-tuks, or there are organized buses available. I was coming from Pakistan and easily found a minibus with an extra seat that took me to Amritsar for 100 rupees.”

Note: The opening and closing times of the border frequently vary, which also affects the start time of the ceremony, so I recommend checking on-site for accurate timings. Additionally, you can’t bring luggage into the ‘stadium’; I had to leave my large backpack in custody.”

To conclude, if you’re a fan of Kulfi, you definitely need to try Bombay Kulfi, they even offer sugar-free flavors!

Wagah border.

How to reach Amritsar?

Amritsar is a major railway hub, well-connected to all the key cities in the northwest of India, with direct trains even reaching as far as Mumbai and Varanasi. Bus services are also available to all major cities, including Manali to the north, from where many travelers begin their journey into the heart of the Himalayas.

If you’re arriving or continuing your journey to Pakistan (the only border crossing between the two countries), the public bus that operates during the day costs 35 rupees from Amritsar station and runs approximately every hour. From the last bus stop to the immigration checkpoint is a couple of kilometers, which can be covered by tuk-tuk for around 20 rupees. The border officially closes at 3:30 p.m. Pakistan time (4 p.m. India time), and the flag ceremony starts at 6 p.m. (5:30 p.m. in Pakistan).

Where to sleep in Amritsar?

I slept at Gostops Amritsar and highly recommend it.

Durgiana Mandir temple.

SOUTH INDIA

Sunset at Chowpatty beach.

How to reach Mumbai?

The city is extremely well-connected to the rest of the country, with its railway station and airport being among the most important in India. There are direct connections to nearly every corner of the country.

Where to sleep in Mumbai?

I slept at Nap on Map Hostel and recommend it, conveniently located really close to the airport and train station. If you prefer to be closer to the historic center of Mumbai check out Hebbar’s Heritage Home and Backpackers Panda Colaba.

Ajanta and Ellora

It’s a good idea to base yourself in Aurangabad to visit both sites.

The Ellora Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage site, form an impressive complex of rock-cut shrines representing three different religions: Buddhism, Hinduism, and Jainism. A tuk-tuk from Aurangabad to the caves should cost around 600 rupees. On the way, you can stop at Daulatabad Fort. The entrance fee for the Ellora Caves is 600 rupees for foreigners.

The following day, visit the Ajanta Caves. A taxi ride should cost about 1,200 rupees, and it’s worth it if shared. Otherwise, the bus is an affordable option at 150 rupees one way. The Ajanta Caves consist of 30 Buddhist monasteries carved into the rock, with an entrance fee of 600 rupees.

Ajanta caves.

How to reach Aurangabad?

There are direct connections from Mumbai by both train and bus, about 7 hours.

Where to sleep in Aurangabad?

Zostel Aurangabad is probably the best hostel in town. 

Nashik

This is an ancient city that some compare to Varanasi, for Hindus it is one of the holiest cities in the world. Here the ghats are more “authentic” and not yet touched by mass tourism, so if you are looking for a place where you can witness Hindu rituals without being hassled by someone who wants to sell you a boat tour or the ceremony of the day, Nashik seems to be the ideal place to spend a day or two.

How to reach Nashik?

Nashik is only 180 km from Mumbai and there are frequent buses, 4 to 5 hours travel time while to Aurangabad is about 6 hours.

Where to sleep in Nashik?

Kubera Dormitory seems to be the only decent hostel in town.

Nashik.

Bidar and Bijapur

Bidar and Bijapur are even further off the usual tourist routes. The Bidar fort is one of the largest in the country but strangely does not attract large crowds, in fact to date admission is free and you may be one of the few people there during your visit.

To reach Bidar coming from Nashik you must first go through Gulbarga from where it is about a three-hour bus ride. 

Bijapur, on the other hand, has more than a few sites of interest. Palaces, tombs, temples and minarets completely built of basalt make the city’s architecture particularly interesting. Again with the advantage of enjoying all the major sites without many other tourists.   

To reach Bijapur from Bidar is about 7 hours by bus.

Bidar fort.

Hampi

Here, we return to a much more well-trodden path—Hampi has become an extremely popular destination over the years. The city is well-known among travelers for its rice paddies, massive boulders, temples, and laid-back atmosphere. Once the capital of the Vijayanagar Empire, which dates back to the 14th century, the ruins are spread over an area of around 26 square kilometers.

Hampi backpacking guide.

How to reach Hampi?

From Bijapur take the direct bus to Hospet (3-4 hours) and from here it is about 30 minutes by Tuk Tuk or local bus. Hospet also serves as a crossroads if you travel by train; in fact, the nearest train station is located here.

Where to sleep in Hampi?

Camping is a really popular option around here, if you’re looking for more comfortable accommodation check out Sunrise Guest House.

Virupaksha Temple, Hampi.

Goa

Undoubtedly one of the country’s most popular destinations, the small state has a rather peculiar history; in fact, the region was a Portuguese colony for a full 450 years and was only annexed to the rest of the country in 1961!

Apparently, the experience varies profoundly depending on the beach one chooses; in fact, some have been completely overrun and transformed by mass tourism. Two beaches still retain an authentic atmosphere: Palolem and Patnem. 

If you are visiting the region for the first time and also want to do some cultural tourism, Panaji, the state capital, is definitely a good place to start. Bardez is the center of nightlife, while Pernem is considered the “chilled” area.

Goa backpacking guide.

How to reach Goa?

There are direct connections from Mumbai north by train as well as overnight buses, about 13 hours. From Hampi by bus it is about 10 hours.

Goa.

Gokarna 

Gokarna is reminiscent of Goa before mass tourism but apparently this is changing rapidly especially along the main beach. 

There are, however, many beaches, often accessible only by boat where one can still feel the hippie vibe that many seek in these parts, one such beach seems to be Om Beach.

Bangalore

The city is the third largest in India and is considered the tech startup capital of the country. It’s also becoming increasingly popular among travelers for its vibrant nightlife, especially in the Indiranagar district, known for its clubs and bars.

Aside from that, there doesn’t seem to be much else for tourists to do, as the city holds little historical interest. However, it is generally more livable compared to other major Indian metropolises.

Bangalore backpacking guide.

Bangalore.

Kodagu

Just a six-hour bus ride from Bangalore lies a wilderness region perfect for nature lovers. Madikeri, the capital, is the ideal base for organizing excursions to the area’s many waterfalls, set against a surprisingly mountainous landscape for southern India.

On this page you will find interesting insights.

Coffee plantation in Kodagu.

Mysore

The city, also known as “Mysuru,” is considered the cultural capital of Karnataka and is ranked as the second cleanest city in India! This historic city boasts a significant architectural heritage, with Mysore Palace being its top attraction. The city center is also home to numerous parks, adding to its charm.

A popular day trip from Mysore is to Srirangapatna, an ancient fortress city located just 20 km away, where you can explore several sites of historical significance.

Mysore backpacking guide.

Mysore Palace.

Kochi

The port city is particularly famous for the ancient Chinese fishing nets given by the Chinese emperor to the kingdom of Kochi in the 14th century as a token of friendship. Another particularly interesting site is the Hill Palace Museum where the Cochin royal crown is displayed, 1.75kg of pure gold with as many as 95 diamonds and more than 2,000 other precious stones. 

Alleppey

The main reason to visit Alleppey is to arrange a houseboat and explore the backwaters. These backwaters are a network of lagoons, lakes, rivers, and canals that form a unique ecosystem, which locals use for fishing, farming, and transporting goods.

There are hundreds of boats and tours to choose from, with the most popular option being a three-day, two-night journey.

Houseboat Allepey.

Munnar and Periyar National Park

Munnar is a classic hill station that the British once used to escape the scorching Indian summers. The area is dominated by tea plantations, with plenty of trekking opportunities around the town.

About 100 kilometers to the south lies Periyar National Park, originally established as a sanctuary for tigers and elephants. Now spanning an impressive 925 square kilometers, it is home to many endangered species. Access to the park is through the town of Thekkady, where guided excursions can be arranged.

Munnar.

Varkala

In the far south of India, Varkala is a coastal town away from mass tourism where you can spend a few days relaxing on the beach. Papanasam is the most popular beach. 

Varkala.

Suggested itineraries in India

Visiting all the places I’ve mentioned so far would take months, if not years. Below, I’ve listed some classic itineraries by region, which can easily be combined to create multi-month journeys.As with any country, there’s no “perfect” itinerary for a given time frame, so take the following suggestions as inspiration and feel free to modify or create your own itinerary based on your interests, budget, and the time of year!

7-day itinerary in India

A week isn’t a lot of time, but it should be enough to experience some highlights and get a taste of India.

New Delhi (2 nights)

Day 1:You could visit Humayun’s tombs, similar in architecture to the Taj Mahal, Qutub Minar, home to the world’s tallest minaret made of bricks, and the iconic India Gate or a few hours of relaxation at Lodhi Gardens.

Day 2:Visit the Old Town by following the itinerary described in the section on New Delhi.

Agra (1 night)

Day 3:Transfer from Delhi to Agra. If you wanted, you could visit the Taj Mahal in the afternoon, but if you want to avoid the heat and crowds, it is best to do it the following morning.

Jaipur (3 nights)

Day 4:Visit the Taj Mahal at sunrise and immediately afterwards the Agra Fort. Transfer to Jaipur in the afternoon.

Day 5:Visit the old town and at least one of Jaipur’s forts.

Day 6:Shopping, relaxing, visiting other sites in Jaipur, or planning an excursion to Chand Baori and Bhangarh Fort.

Day 7:Return to Delhi.

10-day itinerary in India 

With a few more days to spare, I recommend following the itinerary just described until the fourth day, and then you have two alternatives.

First option:

Varanasi (2 nights)

Day 4:Visit the Taj Mahal at dawn and immediately afterwards the Agra Fort. Overnight train to varanasi.

Day 5:Explore the city and its ghats

Khajuraho (2 nights)

Day 6:Spend the morning in Varanasi and in the afternoon take the overnight train to Khajuraho.

Day 7:Explore the temples of Khajuraho.

Orchha (2 nights)

Day 8:Transfer to Orchha.

Day 9:Explore the city’s fort and temples.

Day 10:Return to New Delhi.Second option: This itinerary can be considered a 10-day tour of Rajasthan with a short stop in Agra. Follow the itinerary described above until day 5.

Typical look of men in Rajasthan.

Jodhpur (1 night)

Day 6:

Transfer to Jodhpur. Visit the Blue City in the afternoon and climb Singhoria Hill for sunset.

Jaisalmer (3 nights)

Day 7:

Visit Jodhpur fort in the morning and then transfer to Jaisalmer in the afternoon. 

Day 8:

If you wanted, you could explore the fort early in the morning and then in the afternoon start the desert safari.

Day 9:

If you opted for the desert safari, you return to Jaisalmer in the late morning so you have enough time to catch the overnight bus/train to Delhi.

Day 10:

Return to New Delhi.

15-day itinerary in India

With 15 days to spare I would personally opt for the second version of the 10-day itinerary, perhaps adding one or two stops that could be Pushkar and Udaipur.

Chang La pass.

3-week itinerary in India

Three weeks is a good compromise to visit most of the destinations included in the itineraries described so far. Going into detail, I recommend following the first version of the 10-day itinerary and then once you arrive in Orchha head to Jaipur and visit Rajasthan as described in the second version of the 10-day itinerary. In summary:

New Delhi (2 nights)

Agra (1 night)

Varanasi (2 nights)

Khajuraho (2 nights)

Orchha (2 nights)

Jaipur (3 nights)

Jodhpur (2 nights)

Pushkar (1 night)

Jaisalmer (3 nights)

Udaipur(2 nights)  

New Delhi (1 night)

15-day itinerary in North India

This is an ideal itinerary for the summer, when temperatures are unbearable in much of the country. I’ve included Spiti Valley because I loved it, but if that doesn’t interest you, I recommend spending that week exploring the Parvati Valley and Dharamshala instead.

Two other cities you could easily add to the itinerary are Amritsar and Rishikesh; however, the temperatures there won’t be as pleasant during the summer months.

Finally, Leh is a place where you could easily spend a week, with plenty of trekking and excursions. It’s definitely worth visiting, especially when the rest of the country is dealing with heat and rain. However, if you only have two weeks, I strongly suggest flying, as the bus ride from Manali and back would take up four days of your trip.

Trekking to Lake Chandratal.

New Delhi (2 nights)

Day 1:

Depending on your time, you could visit Humayun’s Tombs, similar in architecture to the Taj Mahal, Qutub Minar, home to the world’s tallest minaret made of bricks, and the iconic India Gate or a few hours of relaxation at Lodhi Gardens.

Day 2:

Visit the old town following the itinerary described in the section on New Delhi. Night bus to Shimla or train.

Shimla (1 night)

Day 3:

Explore The Malle and The ridge, go up Jakhoo Hill.

Spiti Valley (8 nights)

Day 4:

Shimla Reckong Peo bus. Request permit. Spend the night in Kalpa.

Day 5:

Bus Reckong Peo – Nako. Explore the village and spend the night here.

Day 6:

Nako – Tabo bus. Visit the monastery and spend the night here.

Day 7:

Tabo – Dhankar bus. Visit the monastery and spend the night here.

Day 8:

Dhankar – Kaza bus. Spend the afternoon in town and then take the bus to Key Gompa. Spend the night here.

Day 9:

Attend morning prayers at the monastery and if you wish, hitchhike to Kibber, spend a few hours here or return directly to Kaza.

Day 10:

Bus to Lake Chandratal. Spend the night here.

Day 11:

Bus to Manali.

Manali (2 nights)

Day 12:

Explore the city and relax in one of the many cafes.

Day 13:

Excursion to Jogini waterfall and nearby Vashisht. Overnight bus to Delhi.

Day 14:

Return to Delhi.

Three-week itinerary in North India

The extra week should give you enough time to add a few stops to the itinerary without much hassle. Two great options are:

1. A seventh day in Leh. If you choose this, I recommend flying from Delhi at the start of your trip and then taking a bus to Manali. This way, if you’re on a budget, you’ll only need to fly once.
2. Alternatively, spend the extra week exploring the Parvati Valley and Dharamshala.

South india itineraries

As mentioned earlier, I have not been south of Mumbai and the information present is purely from research. That said, two itineraries in the south of the country might be as follows.

Mumbai to Goa in two three weeks

Mumbai -> Ajanta -> Ellora -> Nashir -> Bidar -> Bijapur -> Hampi -> Goa

Bangalore to Varkala in two three weeks (Kerala)

Bangalore -> Kodagu -> Mysore -> Kochi -> Mannur -> Periyar -> Varkala

How to get around India

In a country of this size, distances can be worrisome, but I guarantee that travel is surprisingly efficient even for those traveling on a tight budget who cannot afford to take domestic flights.

Trains in India

Trains are undoubtedly the best way to travel in India: comfortable, relatively fast, and inexpensive, making them ideal for backpackers. The rail system is well-developed, and nearly all major cities are connected by train, except in the northern regions where the mountainous terrain makes train travel less practical.

Here are some practical tips. Most trains have five classes, listed in order of price:

2S (Second Sitting): This is the cheapest option, but I strongly advise against it. The compartments are overcrowded, and there’s no air conditioning.

SL (Sleeper Class): This is a good option. The compartments have eight “beds,” and while it’s relatively comfortable, there’s no air conditioning, so during the summer months, it can get unbearably hot.

3A (AC 3-Tier): This is the most popular choice among travelers. The layout is the same as Sleeper Class, but with air conditioning. I’ve almost always traveled in this class. Sheets and pillows are provided for the night.

2A (AC 2-Tier): Compared to 3A, there are two fewer beds, and each bed has its own curtain, offering a bit more privacy.

1A (AC First Class): First-class compartments are very spacious, with two or four beds. The bathrooms are reportedly equipped with showers.

3AC.

The only downside is that most trains need to be booked at least a couple of days in advance, and for extremely busy routes, it can be weeks before you find a ticket!

Almost every hostel, hotel, or agency can book a train for you, but there’s usually an additional fee for this service. I recommend registering on the official website instead. I registered using an Indian number without any problems, but using an international number might make the process a bit more complicated.

Some people have reported issues paying with a foreign card, but this can usually be resolved by enabling the option. Go to “My Profile,” then “Preferred Bank List,” and select “International Cards.”

During the booking process, you might come across a ticket listed as “WL” (Waiting List). This means you’re on standby in case someone cancels their ticket. The website usually provides the probability of getting a confirmed ticket; for instance, if you’re WL10 with one week to go, the chance of getting the ticket is almost guaranteed.

If you prefer to skip the hassle of registering and don’t mind paying a little extra, you can use services like 12Go to book your tickets instead.

Bus in India

Where trains don’t reach, buses are a reliable alternative, and they’re also a great option for those who prefer not to book train tickets in advance. Buses generally offer last-minute availability.

Almost every state in India has its own bus company, often the cheapest option, though not always the most comfortable. The so-called VIP buses, which provide train-style berths, are typically operated by private companies.

The bus booking process is much simpler. Redbus, for example, has an extensive list of available long-distance and medium-distance buses, both private and government-operated, and accepts foreign cards securely.

From personal experience, if you want to save money, it’s often better to buy tickets directly from the bus company rather than through Redbus. Many times, I’ve checked the bus on the app, then gone to the company’s office to purchase the ticket, saving some money. However, this can be impractical in some cases.

Another app that works well for both buses and trains is Ixigo. Both Ixigo and Redbus frequently offer cashback and various discounts.

Taxi in india

Taxis and tuk tuks in India can be found almost everywhere, knowing how to haggle is key, a good strategy is to ask your hostel/hotel how much a particular route should cost if you are headed somewhere. Another technique you can’t go wrong with is to offer half of what you are asked. 

Especially in the city, if you have a local sim it pays to use apps like Grab and Ola, the latter of which was founded just in India and is slightly cheaper. In both cases the rate offered is still better than what you would get after haggling for 10 minutes. 

Nubra Valley.

Motorcycles in India

Many travelers choose to buy a motorcycle during their trip to India, especially in the northern regions where the stunning roads and mountain passes create a motorcyclist’s paradise. Owning a motorcycle allows access to remote and otherwise difficult-to-reach places. Iconic Royal Enfields on the used market typically sell for around $2,000.

Rental prices vary based on engine size, usually ranging from 1,000 to 2,000 rupees per day. Renting a motorcycle is a popular option for exploring areas like the Spiti Valley from Manali and around Leh. However, given the challenging road conditions, I strongly recommend that only experienced motorcyclists attempt these routes.

Hitchhiking in India

Hitchhiking works quite well and especially in the north of the country I have used it more than a few times without ever waiting for long. If you absolutely do not want to pay for the ride it is good to specify this because you may be asked for a small fee. Hitchhiking is not recommended for women traveling solo.

Travel to India: costs

So, how much does a trip to India cost? If you’re a backpacker or prefer to travel on a budget, very little. India is undoubtedly one of the cheapest countries in the world. If you travel slowly and mindfully, you can easily manage on a budget of just 10-15€ per day.

Even if you move around frequently and indulge in a few treats—essentially, travel with a bit more “style”—you’re unlikely to spend more than 20-25€ per day.

Cost of accommodation in India

In major cities and tourist destinations hostels are numerous, cheap and for the most part really nice and clean in spite of what you might think. A good hostel normally costs about €4-5 per night in a dormitory, for a private room expect to pay about double that.

Some hostel chains, like Moustache (among others), offer discounted rates if you book directly through the hostel or their official website. It’s worth checking or asking at the front desk about any special offers.

Outside the main tourist areas, hostels are rare and are often replaced by guesthouses. My experiences with guesthouses have varied significantly: I’ve had some great stays, and occasionally less impressive ones, though nothing too problematic. A quick inspection should help you avoid any major issues.

Finally, Couchsurfing, especially in big cities, is extremely popular. If you’re on a very tight budget or want to connect with locals, it’s definitely worth considering.

Souvenirs in India.

Cost of transportation in India

As mentioned earlier, despite being a developing country, the public transport network is extremely efficient but also really cheap! A long-distance bus (10-12 hours) costs approximately €6-8, and trains, especially if you settle for “Sleeper Class,” cost even less!

Cost of attractions in India

The only thing “really expensive” are admissions to monuments to various attractions that are normally 10-20 times more expensive for tourists than for locals. 600 rupees, about 7 € seems to be pretty standard when it comes to government-run buildings and monuments.

Free withdrawals in India

Two banks that have never given me any problems and allow withdrawals without any kind of fee (using the right card) are Bank Of Baroda and State Bank of India.

In conclusion, never forget to bargain on any price. Of all the countries I’ve visited, India is by far the place where bargaining is most deeply ingrained in the culture. Especially for tourists, it’s easy to fall victim to overpricing. Unfortunately, foreigners, particularly white tourists, are often viewed as walking wallets. Almost everything is negotiable—from tuk-tuks (which 9 times out of 10 quote absurd prices), to accommodations, souvenirs, and even food!

Travel to India: safety

Is India a safe country? Is traveling to India safe? These are questions I get asked frequently. The short answer is yes—it’s extremely rare to feel genuinely in danger while in India. In terms of safety, it’s comparable to Southeast Asia. Violent crime is very rare, and although I wouldn’t recommend walking alone at night in the suburbs of large cities, with a bit of common sense and some practical advice, you’ll likely encounter very few issues. However, the situation changes when it comes to the type of “shenanigans” mentioned earlier, but these are not necessarily related to personal safety.

One of the biggest concerns for female travelers is safety. Although I can’t speak from personal experience, I’ve known a couple of women who’ve encountered some problems. For example, one woman was groped on a night bus, and the general attitude toward foreign women can sometimes be inappropriate. My advice is to dress modestly and, if possible, sit near other women (on platforms like Redbus, these seats are marked in pink).

Traveling in India without experiencing stomach issues seems nearly impossible, especially if you’re short-term in the country and haven’t had time to adjust. Always avoid brushing your teeth with tap water. Be cautious about what you drink, and for both your wallet and the environment, using a water bottle with a filter is a great option.

In conclusion, while marijuana use is widely tolerated in the north, especially among tourists, it’s important to be extremely cautious. The police often know they can make a lot of money off you, and although this is based on hearsay and local advice, everything can be “solved” with the right amount of cash. So, if you find yourself in such a situation, it’s best to pay quickly and resolve the issue before it escalates further.

Are you planning a trip to India? Check out these posts:

The best cards for traveling

What to bring on your trip

Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!

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