India Travel Guide

India, the seventh-largest country in the world by area and the most populous, from the great peaks of the Himalayas in the north to the beaches and jungle of the south, is a place of extreme geographic but also cultural diversity, absolutely unique in the world, offering endless travel possibilities for every taste.

I spent almost 4 months backpacking, mostly in the north of the country, only scratching the surface of what can, for all intents and purposes, be considered a continent and would take years to visit properly. Anyway, whether you have a few weeks or a few years available, with this guide full of information and tips I want to help you plan your independent trip to India as best you can.

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Jodhpur, the blue city.

When to visit India

The best time to visit India is generally from October to March, when the days in most of the country are warm, sunny and, above all, dry. The big problem during the rest of the year, in fact, is the monsoon, which starts around June in the south of the country and reaches the north in early August, following the pattern shown in this image.

This means that even months that are normally not recommended, like June and July, are still a great time to visit the mountainous areas in the north, because the monsoon hasn’t arrived yet and temperatures are extremely pleasant thanks to the altitude. August and September also give you the chance to visit some regions, again in the north, that enjoy a particular climate: located in the so-called “rain shadow”, they see very little rain and, again thanks to the altitude, enjoy ideal temperatures during this period. Two classic examples are the Spiti Valley and Kashmir.

It’s difficult to generalize about the best time to visit such a large and geographically diverse country, so I recommend doing specific research on the area you plan to explore. As a general rule, though, the Indian lowlands are best visited from October to March, while the mountains are ideal from May to September.

The red fort.

Documents and vaccinations to enter India

To enter India it’s always necessary to obtain a visa. If you arrive in India by air via one of the 28 international airports, the process of obtaining a visa is quite simple: you can easily do everything online via the appropriate portal and apply for the so-called “E-Visa.”

There are three visa options for India: 30 days, 1 year, and 5 years. The 30-day visa costs only 10$ in the low season (April to June) and 25$ for the rest of the year. This visa is “Double Entry,” meaning you can leave and re-enter the country once during its validity.

The one-year visa costs 40$, while the five-year visa is 80$. Both are “Multiple Entry” visas, allowing you to leave and return as many times as you like, though you can’t stay for more than 90 days at a time. Finally, all e-visas are valid from the day they’re issued, not from the day you enter the country. Also keep in mind that, in theory, on arrival you could be asked for an exit ticket within the limits of your visa. Personally, on both of my entries I was never asked for anything, but I always entered by land; at the airport they might be stricter. Here’s how to travel with a one-way ticket.

The temples of Khajuraho.

The e-visa is undoubtedly the most convenient and economical option for those visiting India, but it’s important to note that it’s only valid for entry through one of the 28 international airports or 5 ports (Mumbai, Cochin, Mormugao, Chennai, and New Mangalore). If you enter via a land border, as I did from Nepal, you’ll need to obtain your visa from an Indian diplomatic or consular office—either in your home country or, in my case, from Kathmandu, Nepal. However, the application process should still be started online through the designated portal before visiting the embassy or consulate.

Note: For the 1-year and 5-year e-visas, which allow “multiple entries,” you can enter by land after your initial entry into the country.

India doesn’t require any mandatory vaccinations unless you’re arriving from a country with a risk of yellow fever. Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B vaccinations are always recommended, and in any case it’s a good idea to talk to a travel doctor.

For up-to-date information on visas and anything else, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).

Trekking in the Himalayas.

What to do and see in India

Given the size of India, I’ve divided this section of the guide into three areas or itineraries: North, Central, and South. These roughly cover everything north of New Delhi, the region between New Delhi and Mumbai, and everything south of Mumbai, respectively. For each region, you’ll find a more detailed map, and for longer trips, you can easily combine the various routes.

Obviously, despite the four months I spent in India, I’ve only scratched the surface of everything there is to see, and although I’ve done my best to make this guide as complete as possible, what follows is, broadly speaking, only the destinations of greatest tourist interest.

Prices in this guide are listed in the local currency, the Indian Rupee, often abbreviated as INR. The exchange rate is about 1€ = 106 INR. For the latest exchange rate, I recommend checking out this page.

Central India

Let’s start with what can be considered the north-central part of the country, which for simplicity I’ll just call the center. It basically covers the states of Haryana, Uttar Pradesh and Rajasthan, roughly following what is probably the most popular itinerary of all. Here you’ll find the video of the first part of my trip (in Italian, but you can turn on the subtitles) and of the time I spent in Rajasthan (in Italian, but you can turn on the subtitles).

It gets really hot in all these regions during the summer, so it’s recommended to visit them between October and March.

New Delhi

The capital of the country and, for many, also the first stop on a trip to India. I only spent a couple of days there, and the time of year (late May) certainly wasn’t ideal weather-wise, but let’s just say I wasn’t exactly impressed by this gigantic, extremely chaotic and polluted city. That said, here are a few things to do if you have a couple of days available.

What to do and see in New Delhi

Delhi has enough attractions to keep you busy for several days, but I believe that a couple of days is sufficient to see the main highlights.

Inside the red fort.

Historic center

The oldest part of the city groups together many of the main tourist sites and you can put together a nice circuit: getting off at the Chandni Chowk metro stop (Google Maps) you can visit the Red Fort (Google Maps) and easily spend a couple of hours there. The entrance fee is 950 INR (900 INR if you pay by card), which is quite expensive, and if you’re on a tight budget I think a look from the outside is enough; in my opinion the inner gardens aren’t exactly impressive.

From the Red Fort, continue along Chandni Chowk Road and visit the two temples Shri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir (Google Maps) and Bhagwan Shri Kalki Mandir (Google Maps) located at the beginning of the road and then walk to the iconic spice market (Google Maps), still following Chandni Chowk Road. From here I recommend backtracking through the alleys of Kinari Bazar and Dariba Kalan before reaching the Jama Masjid Mosque (Google Maps). 

What I’ve just described is, broadly speaking, the classic itinerary in the historic center of Delhi. Personally I also visited the Swaminarayan Akshardham temple (Google Maps), admission is free and the structure is really impressive. It’s a stone’s throw from the Akshardham metro station (Google Maps) which makes it really easy to access. I also went to Lodhi Gardens (Google Maps), free admission and definitely a peaceful spot within the chaotic city. There are also a couple of ancient buildings and monuments that you can visit within the park.

Other iconic places that I personally didn’t visit, however, are undoubtedly Humayun’s Tomb (Google Maps), similar in architecture to the Taj Mahal, the Qutub Minar (Google Maps), home to the world’s tallest brick minaret, and the iconic India Gate (Google Maps), a war memorial. The Sikh Sri Bangla Sahib Gurudwara temple (Google Maps) is nice and in the evening they serve free food to everyone in the “canteen,” an interesting experience.

Sri Bangla Sahib Gurudwara temple.

How to reach New Delhi?

Delhi offers connections to virtually every major city within a radius of at least 1,000 km, whether by train, bus, or air. Within the city, on the other hand, I recommend using the metro, which lets you get virtually anywhere for next to nothing, including to and from the airport.

Where to sleep in New Delhi?

I slept at Joey’s Hostel and I recommend it. The price is great, the staff is really nice and helpful, the breakfast included is good and especially if you’re in Delhi during the summer, the air-conditioned common rooms are a nice touch and the location near the metro station is really handy.

Agra 

The city of Agra, located just a couple of hours from Delhi, is home to India’s most iconic attraction: the Taj Mahal.

What to do and see in Agra

Taj Mahal

Here too, I think the entrance fee is disproportionate, to say the least, and obviously constantly rising. In any case, admission costs 1,100 rupees (1,050 if you pay by card) plus 200 rupees to enter the mausoleum. It’s only a couple of euros more, but if you’re on a really tight budget I honestly don’t think it’s worth it, and I recommend sticking to the standard ticket.

The Taj Mahal is open every day from 6:00 to 19:00, except on Fridays. I recommend entering through the east gate (Google Maps), as it’s less crowded. The ticket office opens around 5:30, and I also recommend showing up at that time so you can get in as early as possible: by around 8:00 the site is already extremely crowded.

The Taj Mahal.

Agra Fort

The structure is similar to that of Delhi’s Red Fort, but better preserved. From the fort (Google Maps) you get an excellent view of the Taj Mahal, and it’s often visited on the same day. A tuk tuk ride from the Taj Mahal to the fort costs around 30 to 50 rupees, while admission to the fort is 600 rupees. You can receive a discount of 50 rupees if you present your Taj Mahal entrance ticket.

Finally, another interesting site just 40 km from Agra is Fatehpur Sikri (Google Maps), a really impressive walled citadel that gets a fraction of Agra’s tourists and can easily be reached by bus as a day trip.

How to reach Agra?

Agra is situated along one of the country’s main rail lines, but it’s also one of the busiest, so it’s hard to book a seat, especially at short notice. However, it’s still worth trying. Alternatively, you can take a bus from New Delhi, which takes about 4 to 5 hours.

Where to sleep in Agra?

Again, I slept at Joey’s Hostel and I highly recommend it. There’s a nice terrace with a view of the Taj Mahal and the hostel is a five-minute walk from the entrance, the included breakfast isn’t bad at all and the staff is super helpful.

Orchha

Orchha is slightly off the classic itinerary but I think it’s absolutely worth a visit; it’s a small medieval village on the banks of the Betwa River with a very impressive fort and a really interesting series of temples.

Orchha from above.

What to do and see in Orchha

All of the attractions are within a few kilometers, so I think one day is enough to visit the town. I recommend starting your visit early in the morning because the fort alone can easily take a couple of hours, and it’s also good to remember that with the entrance ticket, which costs 200 rupees, you can then also visit the catacombs (Google Maps) and the Lakshmi Narayan Mandir temple (Google Maps). 

To conclude, I also recommend visiting the Chaturbhuj Mandir temple (Google Maps) from which you have a beautiful view of the fort and by paying a few rupees to the caretaker you can also climb onto the roof of the temple and enjoy a beautiful view of the whole village.

The catacombs of Orchha.

How to reach Orchha?

Orchha has a very small train station (Google Maps) served only a couple of times a day; if you’re heading to Khajuraho, there should be a passenger train at 7:25 in the morning, which can’t be booked. In any case, the way to get to Orchha is through Jhansi, which is about 15 km away. Jhansi has a well-served train station (Google Maps), as well as a bus station (Google Maps) with connections to all the main nearby towns. From Jhansi to Orchha it’s about 45 minutes by tuk tuk; I paid 220 rupees sharing it with a friend. A cheaper alternative, which I haven’t tried, is to take one of the shared tuk tuks that apparently leave from the bus station once they’re full and should cost 20 rupees per person.

Where to sleep in Orchha?

Shree Ram Homestay is probably the best option in the village. A good alternative seems to be Temple View Guesthouse. In any case, the village is really small and pretty much all the accommodations are concentrated in the center, so finding a place to stay really shouldn’t be a problem at all.

Orchha fort.

Khajuraho

Khajuraho is a small town halfway between Agra and Varanasi, so it’s a great stop to break up the journey between these two popular destinations. Here you’ll find numerous groups of Hindu and Jain temples, which are part of a UNESCO site thanks to the wonderful stone carving that characterizes them.

One of the temples of Khajuraho.

What to do and see in Khajuraho

Many people come to Khajuraho exclusively to visit the so-called main (west) complex or “Western Group”: this is definitely where the most impressive and best-preserved temples are. Admission costs 600 rupees and it opens at 6:00 in the morning, and I recommend watching the sunrise inside the complex.

Once you have visited the main complex I also recommend visiting the east group of temples and the south group, the latter are definitely not as beautiful as those in the west group but I think they’re still worthwhile. There’s no entrance fee to pay except for a couple of temples where a small fee is required, if you’re on a really tight budget you might even consider visiting only these and skipping the west group.

The temples are all within a short distance of each other, and a good way to visit them is definitely on a bike that can be rented for 100 rupees or a little more, alternatively you can always negotiate a couple of hours with a tuk tuk.

The ones that were recommended to me and that I personally visited are: Vamana Temple, Javari Temple, Jain Temples, Duladeo Shiva Temple, Beejamandal Temple and Chaturbhuji Temple.

Finally, from Khajuraho you can join a tour to the nearby Panna National Park, famous for its high density of tigers, which are spotted practically every time during the visit. The cost is “per jeep”, which, if I’m not mistaken, can be shared by up to 4 people, so if you want to save money it’s better to do it as a group.

How to reach Khajuraho?

If you’re coming from Varanasi, the most comfortable and cheapest option is the night train, which runs three times a week (Monday, Wednesday and Saturday) and has Khajuraho as its final destination. If you’re coming from Orchha instead, I recommend going to Jhansi to catch the train; from Agra, I recommend taking the night train (daily departures).

Finally, if you’re continuing to Orchha (via Jhansi) and want to book your train online, enter Datia as the destination, otherwise the system doesn’t show any trains. I was told there’s also a direct train to Orchha, departing at 12:30, but it’s often late and it’s an unreserved train, so it’s extremely crowded, and it costs only 50 rupees.

Where to sleep in Khajuraho?

Moustache Khajuraho is a really nice hostel a stone’s throw from the main (west) complex.

Varanasi

Varanasi, one of India’s and the world’s oldest cities, is also one of the country’s holiest. Every year, in fact, millions of pilgrims visit its ancient ghats (stairways leading down into the river) to bathe in the waters of the Ganges.

One of the many ghats of Varanasi.

What to do and see in Varanasi

Varanasi isn’t one of those cities with absolutely unmissable attractions; here the real attraction is watching the ceremonies that come to life along the river. Every day, more than 60,000 people immerse themselves in the waters of the Ganges, especially at sunrise and sunset. At these two times of day, the hugely popular “boat tours” are offered: a boat ride of about an hour that gives you a different perspective on the various ceremonies taking place along the ghats. The classic sunset route usually starts at Dasaswamedh Ghat (Google Maps), then continues to Manikarnika Ghat (Google Maps), where you can watch the cremations, and finally goes back to Dasaswamedh Ghat for the Aarti ceremony.

I simply recommend getting lost in the maze of alleys in the old part of Varanasi where, among cows, pilgrims and street food, you can really feel a unique atmosphere.

How to reach Varanasi?

From Khajuraho there are three trains a week (Tuesday, Friday and Sunday), while if you’re coming from Agra, there are trains every day. Another possible destination is Lucknow, about 8 hours by bus. There’s also a daily bus that connects Varanasi directly to Kathmandu, in Nepal.

Where to sleep in Varanasi?

I spent a few days at the Good Vibes Hostel, central location and really cheap but nothing more. Then I moved to Gostops Varanasi which is outside the old city in a significantly nicer building and all in all I think is a better option. Further south along the Ganges there’s a Moustache.

The Ganges River in Varanasi.

Lucknow

I’ll wrap up this section on the north-central region with a destination I haven’t personally visited but that several travelers recommended to me: Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh and historically a really important city, so much so that it’s considered the heart of North Indian culture.

The main attraction is the Bara Imambara (Google Maps), a large tomb complex built in 1783 with an interesting labyrinth inside, and the nearby Chhota Imambara (Google Maps), an imposing mausoleum dating back to 1837. There’s a single entrance ticket, which costs 500 INR for foreigners.

How to reach Lucknow?

Lucknow is accessible by train from both Agra and New Delhi. However, if you’re in Varanasi, the only option is to travel by bus. You can also reach Lucknow from the town of Sunauli, located on the border with Nepal.

What I’ve just described is a popular itinerary that basically starts in New Delhi and ends in Varanasi. Another perhaps even more popular itinerary is the one through the state of Rajasthan, which many combine into one trip.

Jaipur

Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan and also known as the “Pink City,” given its proximity to New Delhi and Agra is for many the first stop on a trip to the region.

The monkey temple in Jaipur.

What to do and see in Jaipur

There are numerous sites to visit in and around Jaipur, also, don’t forget that Jaipur is one of India’s leading cities for textile and garment production, you can get some real bargains.

Jaipur City Palace and Hawa Mahal

These two buildings are undoubtedly the most iconic in downtown Jaipur and are located a short distance from each other. Personally, I didn’t visit the Jaipur City Palace because I got to the entrance too late: it’s open every day from 9:30 to 17:00 and admission for foreigners costs 500 rupees. The Hawa Mahal, also known as the Palace of the Winds, is located a short distance away but I was advised against visiting the inside as the outside of the palace is much more impressive, especially in the evening when it’s lit up. 

Finally, the Jantar Mantar, which is literally right between the two, is a UNESCO site famous for having the largest of the five astronomical observatories built by Maharaja Jai Singh during the period 1727-1734. It’s open every day from 9:00 to 16:30, and admission costs 200 INR for foreigners.

N.b. Consider buying the combo ticket that gives access to Jantar Mantar, Amber Fort, Central Museum, Hawa Mahal, Isarlat and Nahargarh Fort for 1,000 INR; the ticket is valid for two days and can be bought at any of the sites just mentioned.

There’s also another combo ticket that for 500 INR, also valid for two days, includes admission to City Palace, Royal Gaitor and the Maharanis and Jaigarh cenotaphs.

Hawa Mahal.

Amber Fort, Jaigarh Fort and Nahargarh Fort

If this is one of your first stops in Rajasthan, or in India more generally, you probably haven’t had enough of forts yet, but personally I’d already seen plenty, not counting the ones I was going to visit later, so I limited myself to a quick visit to Amber Fort! In any case, here’s some info on the various forts.

Amber Fort

It’s located about 11 km north of downtown Jaipur (Google Maps) and is considered the most beautiful of the three forts; you can visit the outer gardens and a good chunk of the first defensive lines for free; if you want to visit the inside of the citadel, on the other hand, the ticket costs 500 INR. The main attraction inside the fort is the “Sheesh Mahal”, a room covered with thousands of small mirrors.

If you wish, you can reach the fort by public transportation thanks to bus number 5, which runs through Hawa Mahal and New Gate.

Amber fort.

Jaigarh Fort

This fort (Google Maps) is located about one kilometer from Amber fort. Never captured in battle, it’s known for having the largest cannon in the world, the Jaivana. Apparently the interior gardens and the views of the large Amber Fort complex below are also really worth it. Admission for foreigners costs 500 INR.

Nahargarh Fort

Finally, Nahargarh Fort (Google Maps), the smallest of the three and also easily accessible on foot from downtown Jaipur, offers excellent views of the city itself and Man Sagar Lake.

Other sites of interest in and around the city are the Jal Mahal (Water Palace), a partly submerged palace that is literally in the middle of the lake and can be seen from the road leading to Amber Fort. One of the famous Step Wells, not far from Amber Fort, with free admission, and finally the Monkey Temple (Galtaji) a temple complex nestled in the forest in a truly picturesque setting that can be reached at the end of a short walk, free admission. 

To move between attractions I recommend paying for a tuk tuk for the whole day; prices during my visit in the low season were about 600 INR for one person and 800 INR for two.

To conclude, starting from Jaipur you can visit Chand Baori in a day: built more than 1,000 years ago, it’s one of the largest and most beautiful stepwells in the world, and the visit is often combined with Bhangarh Fort which is more or less halfway between Jaipur and Chand Baori. Visiting both sites by public transport, although feasible from my research, isn’t exactly straightforward; in case you’re interested, any agency in town offers the one-day tour/transportation to both destinations.

Step Well in Jaipur.

How to reach Jaipur?

Jaipur can be reached by train from all the major surrounding cities (Delhi, Agra, Ajmer, and it also has direct connections to Mumbai). Bus connections are also really frequent, to virtually any city worth mentioning within a radius of hundreds of kilometers.

Where to sleep in Jaipur?

Moustache Hostel Jaipur is one of the best hostels I’ve ever stayed in, not exactly near the center but a stone’s throw from the bus station, the hostel is brand new and really comfortable.

Pushkar

Pushkar is a really popular destination among travelers; it’s a sacred city famous for the temple of Brahma, a Hindu god considered the creator of this world who for convoluted reasons has very few temples dedicated to him. Honestly, I found it extremely touristy, it didn’t impress me all that much but I still think it’s worth a stop to break up the journey to Jodhpur.

Sunset over Pushkar Lake.

What to do and see in Pushkar

Many see Pushkar as a destination for relaxing, and in fact there isn’t much to do. The small town is built around Pushkar Lake, which is said to have been created by Lord Brahma and is therefore a pilgrimage site; there are no fewer than 52 ghats surrounding it, and the ceremonies follow one another all day long.

Speaking of these ceremonies, be careful, because there are a lot of not-exactly-honest monks who will try to bless you, color your forehead, etc. etc., with the sole aim of then getting money out of you.

The bazaar is full of souvenirs of all kinds, and there’s certainly no shortage of yoga and meditation centers. This is a great spot to watch the sunset, and in case you feel like taking a sunrise hike, the Savitree Temple offers some great views; during the day you could also ride the cable car. 

How to reach Pushkar?

From Jaipur, Jai Ambay technically offers a direct air-conditioned bus for 300 rupees. However, when I arrived in Ajmer, they transferred me to a local bus at their expense because there weren’t enough passengers going to Pushkar.

In general, I think it’s better to take one of the many buses (including government-run RSRTC buses) from Jaipur, Jodhpur, or Bundi to Ajmer, and then hop on a local bus for 20 rupees, with really frequent departures for Pushkar. The same applies when leaving Pushkar—take a direct bus to Ajmer first, as there are many more options from there.

If you prefer, there are also train connections; apparently, from the train station it should still be possible to catch a bus to Pushkar without needing to go to the main bus station.

Where to sleep in Pushkar?

Here again I recommend Moustache, excellent facility and beautiful rooftop terrace overlooking the entire city. Another good alternative might be Zostel. On the other hand, if you’re looking for something more luxurious, check out Inn Seventh Heaven.

Bundi

I haven’t been there personally due to weather and time constraints (the city had just experienced heavy rains and was partly flooded), but it definitely enjoys some popularity among travelers.

The city has more than 50 stepwells, most of which are now in a pitiful state, with the exception of Rani Ji Ki Baori (the Queen’s Well). Another notable site is Taragarh Fort, built in the 16th century, and one of the most famous forts in Rajasthan; admission costs 500 INR for foreigners.

How to reach Bundi?

Bus connections to Jaipur and Ajmer are really frequent, 4-5 hours. Bundi also has a train station, but it isn’t well served. An alternative is the town of Kota, about an hour’s drive away, from where buses run between the two cities about every 15 minutes.

Where to sleep in Bundi?

Bhavyam HomeStay seems to be a great budget option, as does Blue Door, if you’re looking for something more luxurious check out Dev Niwas Heritage Hotel.

Jodhpur

Jodhpur is the second-largest city in Rajasthan, it’s literally at the gateway to the Thar Desert and it’s known as the Blue City: in fact, most of the houses in the old town are painted blue.

Sunset over the blue city.

What to do and see in Jodhpur

Of the roughly one thousand forts in India, Jodhpur’s is definitely a must-see and, unlike many others, it’s worth the price of admission.

Mehrangarh Fort

Mehrangarh Fort (Google Maps), perched on a hill overlooking the city, is the largest fort in all of Rajasthan. Built in 1458, it was never conquered in battle.

Unlike all the other forts I visited in India, the 600-rupee entrance fee includes a really interesting and well-structured audio tour (also in Italian). You can easily spend a couple of hours exploring its various rooms and gardens, with a great view of the city below.

Jaswant Thada and Singhoria Hill

Jaswant Thada (Google Maps), the marble tombs of the royal family, is about 1 km from the fort and easily reachable on foot. Admission is only 30 rupees.

I also highly recommend Singhoria Hill (Google Maps), a viewpoint not far from the fort, where you can enjoy spectacular sunset views of the fort and the city. Admission is free, and you simply walk up the steps along the roadside.

Jodhpur fort seen from Singhoria Hill.

The Blue City

Tours are offered everywhere, but honestly I think it’s enough to get lost in the alleys of the old city to savor the atmosphere. The whole part of the city at the foot of the fort to the west is really nice, and if you want there’s also a side exit from the fort that literally leads into the heart of the blue city.

I also found this viewpoint by randomly walking around, and apparently it’s one of the favorite spots of the various tours.

The center of the new part of Jodhpur isn’t exactly impressive, but it’s still worth a stroll; the area around the clock tower isn’t bad.

How to reach Jodhpur?

I reached Jodhpur by state bus (RSRTC) from Ajmer, 205 rupees, about 5 hours. In any case, there are frequent connections from both Ajmer and Jaisalmer. For more distant cities, direct connections are usually at night. The train station is also regularly served with daily direct connections to Delhi in the north and Mumbai in the south.

Where to sleep in Jodhpur?

Again I slept at goStops Jodhpur and I recommend it; the rooftop terrace, and more generally the hostel, is really nice, with spacious dorms. The only downside is perhaps the location, it’s in fact on the opposite side of town from the blue city; however, I always moved around on foot without any problems and the public bus station is really close by.

The blue city.

Jaisalmer

Also known as the Golden City, it’s located in the far west of Rajasthan in the middle of the Thar Desert, a short distance from the border with Pakistan. 

What to do and see in Jaisalmer

Here, too, the fort that dominates the town is the main attraction. In contrast to the other forts in the region, however, this is an inhabited fort: inside is a real inhabited citadel with stores, restaurants, hotels and whatnot.

Jaisalmer fort.

Jaisalmer Fort

Being a citadel (Google Maps), you can go in and visit the fort as you like without paying any admission, and walking through the narrow streets is really pleasant – even though, as often happens in India, you’re constantly invited into shops and restaurants. There are also numerous viewpoints from which you can see the city below and the desert in the distance.

It’s also possible to visit the royal palace located at the entrance to the citadel, I personally didn’t as I was told there’s not much to see and the entrance fee set at 500 rupees isn’t exactly cheap (including audio tour). 

However, I visited the Jain temple complex also inside the citadel (Google Maps). The temples are famous for the really impressive stone carvings, if you haven’t seen other such works I think they’re worth it. They are open to the public from 8:00 to 12:00 and admission costs 200 rupees.

Haveli

These are a collection of luxurious residences built in the early 1800s for the sons of a wealthy Jaisalmer merchant. Patwon Ki Haveli (Google Maps) is the most impressive of the five and has been converted into a museum, where you can view art and furniture that showcase the opulent lifestyle of the time. Admission is 250 rupees, while entry to the other havelis, all located along the same street, costs 100 rupees each.

The facade of one of the Havelis.

Gadisar Lake

This man-made lake (Google Maps) was formerly used as a water supply for the city, but now it’s more of a tourist attraction; there are a couple of temples and tombs on the shores and also in the middle of the lake. Don’t expect anything special but it’s definitely worth a trip there to watch the sunrise or sunset while sitting on the ghats. 

The lake is home to plenty of catfish, which come close to the shore, attracted by locals feeding them. It’s nothing major, but certainly something unusual to see. And of course, you’ll find plenty of people eager to sell you fish food! If you’re interested, boat rides on the lake are also available.

Gadisar lake.

Night in the desert

Spending a night in the Thar Desert, often combined with a camel ride, is undoubtedly the most popular tour offered in town. A visit to Kuldhara is practically always included too: a village about 18 km from Jaisalmer, completely abandoned in the early 19th century for unknown reasons.

The activities and destinations, as well as the level of comfort, vary greatly from company to company. I was about to do the tour with a company called Desert Man, which had great reviews, but since it was low season there weren’t many people, and it was going to cost me 1,750 rupees, dropping to 1,500 if they found someone else. In the end, I ended up doing it with some young people I met by chance at Gadisar Lake who absolutely didn’t want to do the camel ride for ethical reasons; for me it wasn’t essential, so I joined them mostly for the company, paying 1,250 rupees and visiting some villages in the desert instead of doing the camel tour.

Whatever your choice, I think spending a night in the desert is absolutely worth it, if only to experience the stunning starry sky!

In conclusion, I strongly recommend enjoying the sunset from this viewpoint, which is located on top of a small hill, there’s no entrance fee to pay and the view is really great. Someone might suggest that you go to see the sunset at Vyas Chhatri, which besides being further away also has an entrance fee. I think the spot mentioned above is a much better option.

Kuldhara, the abandoned village.

How to reach Jaisalmer?

Jaisalmer can be easily reached by train from Jodhpur or by bus; the train is slightly cheaper and definitely more comfortable, but the travel time is the same, around 6 hours. I took the state bus for 275 rupees. If you’re coming from the south (Udaipur), on the other hand, there are night buses. The best company is Hanuman, whose Jaisalmer office is here; I paid 800 rupees for a sleeper berth by going directly to the office, compared to 987 rupees on Redbus.

Where to sleep in Jaisalmer?

Here too, for the umpteenth time in Rajasthan, I stayed at Moustache. The hostel is really nice, but it’s outside the citadel; inside, a hostel that had been highly recommended to me is Zostel: apparently, the historic building that houses the hostel is really nice.

Sunrise in the desert.

Udaipur

Udaipur was one of my last stops in India so, as is often the case at the end of my travels, there was a lot of relaxation and very little exploration. That said, here are some of the main attractions in Udaipur.

What to do and see in Udaipur

The palace in Udaipur, built entirely of granite and marble, is undoubtedly the top attraction in the city. If you’re on a tight budget (admission costs 500 rupees) and have already visited other forts and palaces in Rajasthan, I think you can easily skip it, but absolutely don’t miss the evening view of the palace from Ambrai Ghat.

Another definitely interesting building is the Jagdish Temple, with really impressive marble carvings and free admission. Two really striking viewpoints over the city are the Shri Manshapurna Karni Mata Temple, which can be reached on foot for free or by cable car for 110 rupees, and the Monsoon Palace, which costs 300 rupees to go up, plus the cost of transport, because the palace is outside the city.

I recommend attending the folklore show held in a theater at exactly this location. It’s really nice to see and costs just 150 rupees, plus another 150 rupees if you want to take photos. It takes place every evening from 19:00 to 20:00; try to arrive early, because even in the low season it was packed.

Udaipur palace.

Kumbhalgarh Fort and Ranakpur Temple

I haven’t personally been there but this is a popular tour starting in Udaipur. The walls of the Kumbhalgarh fort (Google Maps) are the second longest in the world after those of the Great Wall of China, while the Ranakpur temple (Google Maps) is considered the most spectacular of all Jain temples.

Visiting both sites in one day by public transport seems impossible. An alternative that was recommended to me is to rent a motorcycle and do the tour in a day, or else spend the night in Ranakpur; the town doesn’t seem bad, and that way you also break up the journey.

To conclude, if you’re looking for a good coffee, Jheel’s Ginger Coffee, though really expensive by Indian standards, offers an excellent one and the little terrace by the lake is really nice, I literally spent hours reading there. If on the other hand you’re looking for a place to binge on a great Thali (probably the best of my entire trip to India), go to Natraj Dining Hall, again the price isn’t exactly backpacker friendly but given the “all you can eat” format it’s absolutely worth it, I’ve been there twice!

Five-star hotel in the middle of Udaipur Lake.

How to reach Udaipur?

Due to its fairly central location, Udaipur has direct bus connections to all major cities in Rajasthan (Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Ajmer, Jaipur) within 8-10 hours, and to Delhi and Mumbai within 14-16 hours.

By train, there are direct connections only from Ajmer, Jaipur, Delhi, and Mumbai. If you’re traveling from Jaisalmer or Jodhpur, you’ll need to change trains in Ajmer, wasting a ton of time, so it’s better to take the bus.

Where to sleep in Udaipur?

I stayed at Moustache here as well, and I’d absolutely recommend it. Beautiful rooftop terrace, great common areas, clean and spacious rooms. They even have a ping pong table. What more can you ask for?

Ethnic dance in Udaipur.

North India

By North India I basically mean everything north of Delhi, particularly the Himalayan region spanning the states of Himachal Pradesh and Kashmir, where I spent most of my time during my trip to India (here you’ll find the video of this part of the trip, in Italian, but you can turn on the subtitles).

It gets really cold in all these regions during the winter, so it’s recommended to visit them between April and September, which makes this whole area a great alternative to the rest of the country, which in these very months is usually hit by the heat wave that characterizes the Indian summer on the plains.

During the rest of the year (and also the first months of spring), overland travel can be extremely difficult because of the snow; some roads and passes are actually closed.

Me freezing to death at Konmaru La pass.

Rishikesh

Located at the foothills of the Himalayas and crossed by the Ganges River, the city is considered the Yoga Capital of the World, becoming extremely famous after the Beatles visited in 1968. 

What to do and see in Rishikesh

I must say that due to the pre-monsoon period (late May) and school vacations in India, I found the city extremely crowded with terrible weather but I imagine the rest of the year is much more pleasant. 

Yoga and meditation

If you’re not interested in signing up for yoga classes (the courses to become a yoga teacher are extremely popular, and I imagine the prices are really cheap), meditation, vegan restaurants and everything that can in some way be linked to the world of yogis, in my opinion the city itself doesn’t have all that much to offer and you could easily focus on other destinations. However, if you have the time, it’s worth stopping for a few days before continuing north.

Rishikesh from above.

Visit the waterfalls

One activity that isn’t Yoga-related is to visit some waterfalls around the city: Neer Garh (Google Maps), Garud Chatti (Google Maps), Patna (Google Maps) and HimShail (Google Maps). The best way to visit them is by renting a scooter, about 300 rupees per day. 

Sunrise at Maan Kunjapuri Devi Temple

Unfortunately, I couldn’t find anyone to share a taxi with (it was too expensive on my own) to go up to the Maan Kunjapuri Devi Temple, from where they say the sunrise is magnificent. If you want, you can both walk up and walk down along the trail (mapped on Organic Maps), although many people decide to go up by taxi and walk down. During the day, you can get there by public transport with the buses to Gangotri.

To conclude, rafting on the Ganges River is extremely popular and offered virtually everywhere in the city. Rishikesh is also often the starting point for visiting the “nearby” valley of flowers.

How to reach Rishikesh?

Rishikesh is just 230 km from Delhi, and for this reason Delhi’s residents choose it as a vacation spot, even just for the weekend. The most practical and direct way to reach Rishikesh is by bus, which takes 5-7 hours. The train is less convenient in this case, as the nearest station is in Haridwar, from where it’s at least another hour’s drive. Other destinations with direct bus connections are Jaipur and Agra to the south, and Shimla, Chandigarh, and Manali to the north.

Note: From Rishikesh bus station to Lakshman Jhula (the tourist area), if there’s traffic it can take nearly an hour, even though it’s only a few kilometers away!

Where to sleep in Rishikesh?

I got sick while in Rishikesh, so I ended up staying much longer than expected and had the chance to try more than a few hostels. The best by far is Blue Jay Hostel, a bit pricey but really clean and modern, highly recommended. I then went to Shalom Backpackers and Hashtag Hostel; neither is bad, but Blue Jay is definitely better.

The village of Chitkul.

Shimla

From Rishikesh many people head directly to Manali but if you plan to visit the Spiti Valley (which I can’t recommend enough and will discuss in detail shortly) I personally think it’s much better to head to Shimla and visit Manali afterwards.

What to do and see in Shimla

Shimla is a city that has always been of great importance to India, so much so that in 1864, during the colonial period, it became the summer capital. In fact, being at an altitude of 2,276 meters, the city offers a pleasant climate during the hot Indian summer. After independence it became first the capital of Punjab and then the capital of Himachal Pradesh, which it still is today.

The Mall and The Ridge

These two areas make up the city center (Google Maps), where you can admire the Victorian architecture typical of the colonial period. The areas are extremely pleasant, with plenty of bars, shops, and restaurants—perfect for a leisurely stroll. Another nice area to explore is the Lower Bazaar (Google Maps), home to the vegetable market and some extremely cheap restaurants popular with locals.

Jakhu Hill

Jakhu Hill (Google Maps), with its namesake temple situated 2,445 meters above sea level, is the highest point in the city and offers a beautiful 360-degree view, weather permitting. It can be easily reached on foot (I recommend it) or by taking the cable car at this spot. A one-way ticket costs 295 rupees, while a round trip is about 550 rupees—really expensive for the distance covered, in my opinion.

The village of Hikkim in the Spiti Valley.

How to reach Shimla?

I arrived in Shimla by bus from the north and took a really strange route, but the most spectacular way to reach the city is by train from the south. First, you take a 4-7 hour train ride from Delhi to Kalka, where you can board the mountain train that connects Kalka to Shimla. This section of the railway, recently named a UNESCO site, passes through no fewer than 103 tunnels and apparently offers spectacular views.

Alternatively, you can reach the city by bus. There are connections to and from Shimla with direct routes from virtually all surrounding cities, including Delhi to the south.

Where to sleep in Shimla?

The town, extremely popular with local tourists, for some strange reason isn’t at all popular with foreign travelers, and you can tell from the small number of hostels in town. I slept at the Thira Shimla, a bit outside the center in a really strange location, but the place is welcoming and the staff really nice; the alternative is the YMCA Shimla, the location is better but it’s more expensive and the reviews are worse.

The village of Kibber in the Spiti Valley.

Spiti Valley

The Spiti Valley is a cold mountain desert in the heart of the Himalayas, known for its surreal landscapes, ancient monasteries, and an incredibly hospitable population with strong Tibetan influences. The Spiti Valley region was undoubtedly one of the highlights of my trip to India.

As mentioned earlier, most people choose to visit the region starting from Manali or Shimla, but in my opinion, Shimla is the ideal starting point. At the beginning of the summer season, both passes (Rohtang 3,978 m and Kunzum La 4,590 m), which you must cross if entering from the north, may still be closed due to snow. On the other hand, the road to the Spiti Valley from the south is reportedly open year-round. Also, from Shimla you gain altitude much more slowly and you’d leave the passes for the end, which is ideal especially if you’re coming directly from the plains. N.b. Rohtang Pass can now be bypassed thanks to the newly constructed tunnel.

What follows is, broadly speaking, the “classic itinerary”. Obviously you could spend months traveling around the region, but what you see on the map should still keep you busy for at least 2-3 weeks.

To visit the region, and more precisely to cross the area near the border with Tibet, foreigners need a permit called ‘Inner Line Permit,’ which costs 400 rupees (200 for the permit and 200 for the agency); it seems it’s not possible to get it on your own. It lasts 14 days and, as far as I know, you can get it in Shimla, Reckong Peo (where I recommend doing it) and Kaza.

N.b. The itinerary described here and the transport revolve around public transport (that is, how I did it), but if you prefer there are lots of tours or private drivers that can easily be arranged from either Manali or Shimla. Another extremely popular option among travelers is the motorcycle; given the conditions of the roads you’ll be riding on, I recommend this option only to those with some experience. Finally, hitchhiking: I did it myself, mostly around Kaza, and it worked perfectly. Of course, tours and shared taxis/jeeps are available and can easily be arranged from Manali as well.

DIY itinerary in the Spiti Valley

The Spiti Valley officially begins at Tabo, but I recommend spending a couple of days between Sangla and Chitkul before continuing on to Reckong Peo. If you want to break up the journey further from Shimla, Narkanda and Rampur seem like interesting stops.

Finally, I’ve tried to gather as much information as possible about the buses, but I strongly encourage you to double-check everything once you’re there. If you’re looking for a frequently updated site on bus schedules and pass status, take a look here; there are many useful articles.

As for lodging, there are virtually no hostels in these areas—only guesthouses. I was lucky enough to travel with a group of young people, so we always shared rooms, although prices are very affordable anyway.

Dhankar from above.

Sangla

Starting from Shimla, I recommend taking the 7:30 bus; the next one should be at 10:30. The ride takes 9-10 hours and costs 530 rupees. The road is really scenic most of the time!

You’ll arrive in Sangla in the late afternoon or evening, so get a room for the night: there are several options on the main square, and prices are similar. The next day, I suggest waking up early and visiting nearby Kamru village on foot. Walk up to the fort (Google Maps) and then return to Sangla in time to catch the 12:00 bus to Chitkul. It stops at the main square and costs 48 rupees, about 2 hours.

Chitkul

In Chitkul, I recommend spending one or two nights at most. It’s a small mountain village at 3,450 m, the highest one in the Sangla Valley that can be reached by road. Exploring the village itself takes no more than a couple of hours, but you can do some short hikes. In particular, you can take the trail that climbs the mountain behind the village, from where you get great views of the entire valley. Alternatively, you can follow the road to the military base, which marks the limit for foreigners. The border with Tibet isn’t far from there.

The village of Kalpa.

Reckong Peo and Kalpa

I stayed two nights in Chitkul and took the bus to Reckong Peo at 6:30 in the morning (120 rupees, 3.5 hours). I think there’s also a bus in the afternoon at 13:30 that you could use to spend just one night in Chitkul and have the morning to wander around, but I’m not sure you’d make it in time to get the permit: the office should be open from 10:00 to 17:00.

As soon as you get to Reckong Peo, I recommend getting your ‘Inner Line Permit.’ All the agencies have agreed on the same prices, so one is as good as another. I did mine at The Monk Travels: fill out the form, pay 400 rupees, and in less than an hour you should have your permit. Reckong Peo is also the last place with ATMs before you reach Kaza, where the ATMs don’t always have cash.

Once you have the permit, I recommend going up to Kalpa: this really nice little village overlooks Reckong Peo from above, and the views of the valley and the peaks all around are really impressive; a great place to spend the day before going back down to Reckong Peo the next day to catch the bus. Alternatively, you could go up to Kalpa in the afternoon and then go back down to Reckong Peo to spend the night.

Every hour or so there are buses between Kalpa and Reckong Peo, 20 rupees, about half an hour’s ride, departure from here. Keep your permit and passport handy for the trip and take the direct bus to Kaza. The station is located here, try to arrive a little early and buy your ticket to secure a seat; there’s one bus at 6:30 and one at 13:00, the cost is 195 INR, 4-5 hours. On Sunday mornings the first bus down to Reckong Peo from Kalpa is around 10:00; we didn’t know this, so we had to walk down to the station!

N.b. In case you want to skip Sangla and Chitkul, there are direct buses from both Shimla and Manali to Reckong Peo (and vice versa). I think it’s at least a 16-hour bus ride either way.

The village of Nako.

Nako

I recommend spending the night in Nako and continuing the next day, but if you’re on a tight schedule you could take the bus from Reckong Peo in the morning, spend the afternoon in Nako, and then continue to Tabo on the 13:00 bus from Reckong Peo.

In Nako, you can visit the monastery (nothing exceptional), wander through the narrow streets of the oldest part of the village, which literally seems to have stopped hundreds of years ago, and finally stroll around the small lake. If you want a beautiful view, climb up to the prayer wheel you see at the top of the village; from there, you can continue along the trail (mapped on Organic Maps) and do a hike of a few hours.

We slept at Amar Guesthouse, which wasn’t bad.

Tabo

After spending the night in Nako, take the same bus as the previous day, which leaves Reckong Peo at 6:30 and arrives around 11:30, and continue to Tabo, 120 rupees, about 3 hours. During this stretch, your permit will be checked for the second and final time.

Tabo Monastery (Google Maps), founded in 996, is considered the oldest continuously inhabited Buddhist monastery in India and the Himalayan region, making it a must-visit. For a short walk, you can climb up to the meditation caves along the mountainside, with great views of the valley and the village.

Our guesthouse wasn’t anything exceptional, so I recommend heading to Kunzom Top for meals instead — the food is great and the prices are good.

The Tabo monastery.

Dhankar

The old monastery of Dhankar (Google Maps) is one of the most impressive I’ve ever seen, perched on cone-shaped rock formations and overlooking the valley from above, at the confluence of the Pin and Spiti rivers.

Unfortunately, Dhankar is about 7 km off the road between Tabo and Kaza and isn’t accessible by public transportation. What we did was take the bus that leaves Tabo at 9:00, and in about an hour we had them drop us off at the bottom of the road leading to the monastery, 42 rupees.

There we hitchhiked for about half an hour, until an older French couple gave three of us a ride; two other young people and I waited a bit longer without success and ended up walking. The distance isn’t much, but you feel the altitude; if you do walk, I recommend taking the shortcuts that cut across the switchbacks, which are mapped on Organic Maps.

Explore the village and monastery for the rest of the day while on the morning of the next day I recommend going up to the lake (Google Maps), the view and the first light of day hitting the valley is something fantastic.  

In Dhankar I recommend sleeping at the guesthouse at the new monastery, built opposite the old one: from the terrace you have excellent views of the village and the old monastery, and the food is good as are the prices.

Sunset in Dhankar.

Kaza

The next day we walked down to the main road to catch the same bus as the previous day, coming from Tabo around 10:00; about an hour, 50 rupees.

Kaza is the main town in the Spiti Valley, and with a bit of luck you might even get an internet connection here. During my visit, there were only a couple of places with Wi-Fi, one of them being Travellers Shed.

You can decide whether to spend the night here or continue to one of the villages around Kaza. Kunzum Homestay offers private rooms at rock-bottom prices and isn’t bad at all.

How does transport work in and around Kaza? If you want to visit the surrounding villages, know that there are basically 3 buses leaving Kaza every day: one does the Ki Gompa – Kibber – Chicham route, spends the night there and returns to Kaza the next morning doing the route in reverse. Another does the Langza – Hikkim – Komic route, where it spends the night, and returns the next morning. Finally, there’s a bus to Mud in the Pin Valley that does exactly the same thing. This way the villagers can go to Kaza for school, the market, etc. etc. and then go back home in the evening.

The village of Kibber.

Pin Valley

Due to time constraints I had to skip Pin Valley but if you have time, from what I was told, it’s really worth a visit. One itinerary might be as follows: take the bus from Kaza to Mud, the village dominates the valley and offers a beautiful view, spend the night here and then the next morning, when the bus returns to Kaza, get off at Sagnam which you can use as a base to explore the villages of Kungri and Ka while also doing some hiking. 

In Sagnam a guesthouse had been highly recommended to me, located more or less at this spot; the name should be “Shanta Rakshita”.

A multi-day trek connects the Parvati Valley (which I’ll talk about later) to the Pin Valley, there are no villages along the way so you have to bring your own food and camping gear. I met a Polish couple who told me it was beautiful although in some sections it was really hard.

Key Gompa

This is probably the most iconic place in the entire valley. The monastery (Google Maps) located on top of a hill overlooking the valley is absolutely incredible, to date one of the most spectacular places I’ve ever seen.

Take the Key – Kibber – Chicham bus that leaves Kaza at 17:00 and takes about 45 minutes to reach the monastery; the cost is 30 rupees. The return runs roughly at these times: Chicham 6:30, Kibber 7:30, Key Gompa 8:30.

Take the path up the mountain for the best views of the monastery, and the next day attend the 8:00 prayer.

During my visit, the guesthouse at the monastery was being renovated so we had to sleep in the one located near the parking lot at the foot of the building. 

The Key monastery.

Kibber

It’s located a few kilometers from Key Monastery. This is where I said goodbye to my fellow adventurers, who hitchhiked back to the valley in the afternoon, while I walked the next day to the even more remote village of Tashigang.

To reach Kibber, after attending the morning prayer, we walked to the intersection leading to the monastery and hitched a ride. Within ten minutes, a group of Indian tourists picked us up. Alternatively, you could wait for the bus from the previous day.

There’s not much to do in Kibber. I just wandered around the village, but theoretically, you can walk to Chicham village or hike up to Dangmachan Peak.

I stayed at Norling Home: nice common area with a view of the village, clean room and good food.

The village of Kibber.

Tashigang

The small village of Tashigang, home to 22 people during the summer season, is literally cut off from the world. It does, however, boast the highest polling station on the planet. While it’s not accessible by public transportation, there’s a dirt road that can be traveled by motorized vehicles. I decided to walk there from Kibber.

It took me just under 3 hours walking at a brisk pace, with great views all the way. The only guesthouse in the village costs 600 rupees with three meals included; the elderly couple speaks maybe 10 words of English, but they make themselves understood and literally welcome you into their home like a member of the family. Fantastic experience!

There’s not much to do in the village, but as usual, I started following random trails in the surrounding area. Otherwise, you can simply enjoy the views and the peace that comes with being surrounded by the Himalayan peaks.

If I understood correctly, there’s a car that goes down to Kaza almost every morning around 8:00, but I decided to take the trail that connects Tashigang to Key Monastery, which took me about two hours, and there I caught the bus to Kaza. If you decide to walk, ask for directions in the small village of Gette: the trail mapped on Organic Maps isn’t correct, and it took me a really long time to find the right way down.

The small village of Tashigang.

Komic

Take the Langza – Hikkim – Komic bus that leaves Kaza at 17:00 and takes about an hour and a half to reach Komic; the cost is 48 rupees.

The village of Komic at 4,587 meters above sea level is the highest in the world reached by a paved road. I spent the night at the Jordan In World Homestay, 600 rupees for the room with dinner, breakfast and packed lunch, fantastic experience, three different generations live under one roof, the man who deals with guests speaks excellent English and is extremely friendly, the food delicious.

Hikkim

The next day, I recommend walking to the nearby village of Hikkim, home to the world’s highest post office at 4,400 meters (Google Maps). From there, if you wanted, you could continue on to Langza, spend the night, and take the bus back to Kaza the following day. However, due to time constraints, I chose to hitchhike back to Kaza, skipping Langza.

The highest post office in the world.

Chandratal Lake

The last major attraction before leaving the Spiti Valley. To get there by public transport you have to take the Kaza-Manali bus that leaves every day at 4:30 in the morning. Then you have three options: get off at the top of Kunzum Pass (Google Maps), where you should arrive around 8:30 (140 rupees), and walk for about 3 hours along the trail (mapped on Organic Maps), which isn’t particularly hard but, given the altitude, isn’t exactly a walk in the park; in any case I highly recommend it, incredible views!

At a certain point the trail comes out on the road and you can simply hitchhike to the area with all the campsites, where you can spend the night (this spot).

Two less demanding alternatives are: staying on the bus and getting off where the dirt road to the lake begins (this spot) and walking along the road to the campsites; compared to the trail, the road is largely flat and shorter in distance, but the views aren’t as scenic, about 2 hours. If you want, you can try hitchhiking.

Or, if you don’t feel like walking, you can stay on the bus to the small village of Batal, from where you can arrange a taxi.

Chandratal lake.

Whatever your choice, spend the night at one of the many campsites. There are options for all budgets, from simple tents with a mat on the ground to actual tents complete with a bed and private bathroom. We had opted for the cheapest option by far, paying 1,000 rupees each with lunch, dinner, and breakfast (after haggling) but the guys at the campsite befriended us over lunch and gave us a free upgrade, giving us one of the tents with a bed and private bathroom!

Spend the rest of the day at the lake; if you’re not tired of walking, instead of following the dirt road to the lake, you can take a really nice path that runs parallel to the road: it’s not marked on Organic Maps, but it’s really easy to follow, and the guys at the campsite recommended it to us. Alternatively, you shouldn’t have any problem hitchhiking; we walked there and hitchhiked back.

The next day, be at the intersection by 8:40 at the latest so you can board the bus from Kaza, the same one you took the previous day. From here it takes about 6 hours to reach Manali, 207 rupees.  

N.b. If you plan to continue to Leh by bus, I recommend that you get off at this point and wait for the bus bound for Keylang.

Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.

The “road” from Lake Chandratal to the Rohtang Pass.

Manali

Manali is probably the most popular “hill station” in all of India. At 2,050 meters above sea level, the town offers relief from the hot Indian summer, and especially during June (the local school vacations), it’s literally overrun with tourists.

What to do and see in Manali

First of all, it’s worth pointing out that the town is literally split in two: the old part, called “Old Manali”, and the new part. The old part, with its characteristic buildings and narrow alleys typical of mountain villages, is objectively prettier, but really, really touristy.

There isn’t a whole lot to do in town; the only real attraction is the Hadimba Devi Temple, there are, however, many restaurants and bars, and for those interested, marijuana grows wild around here and is practically legal; the nightlife is also not bad at all.  

I particularly liked Rocky’s Cafe, it overlooks the town from above and you have a beautiful view of the whole valley; another much more spartan but nice cafe where you can have a chai and read a good book is the River Valley View Cafe; either way, you’re really spoiled for choice.

Hadimba Devi Temple.

Jogini Falls and Vashisht

This is a nice hike you can do in a day, setting off on foot from Manali. Take the trail that starts near Rocky’s Cafe and head towards the village of Goshal. From there, cross the river to reach Jogini Waterfall. The trail, mapped on Organic Maps, is pleasant and really easy to follow. You can hike up to the base of the waterfall (definitely worth it!), and then continue on to Vashisht, where there are hot springs if you’re interested, though I personally didn’t find them too tempting. From here, you can return to Manali by tuk tuk.

N.B. If you prefer, you could use Vashisht as a base instead of Manali. There are a couple of hostels here, and the village is definitely quieter and less touristy.

Jogini Falls.

Naggar

I haven’t been there personally, but it seems like a good idea for a day trip from Manali, or alternatively a less touristy place to stop for a couple of days. It’s an ancient village that was once the capital of the region and still preserves some historic buildings such as the castle and a couple of temples.

Finally, Manali is the starting point for several treks, the most popular being probably Beas Kund Trek (2-3 days) and Chandrakhani Pass Trek (5-6 days). The day trip to Rohtang Pass is also extremely popular, but I don’t recommend it: it’s just a very busy mountain pass, you’ll spend hours in the car, and the pass, almost always covered in clouds, doesn’t offer a spectacular view.

How to reach Manali?

There are direct buses from many cities, including night buses from Delhi and Rishikesh to the south, about 14 hours. Other destinations are Shimla, Dharamsala and Leh (stopping at Keylong).  

N.b. There are two bus stations in Manali, the first in the center is used by government buses (HRTC) while the one for private buses is a few kilometers south at this location.

Where to sleep in Manali?

I spent quite a bit of time in Manali trying more than a few hostels. Madpackers Manali is my favorite, in a quiet area with a nice garden and an included breakfast that changes daily, not far away is another nice hostel, Orchards House. Folklore is a great alternative in terms of value for money. Finally, Alt Life, though a bit out of the way and slightly more expensive, came highly recommended to me.

Parvati Valley

Parvati Valley lies about halfway between Manali and Shimla, following the banks of the Parvati River. The valley is particularly popular with Israelis, to the point that Kasol, the main village in the region, is nicknamed “Mini Israel”.

What to do and see in and around Kasol

The entire valley is famous for its relaxed atmosphere and above all for how easy it is to get hold of hashish and marijuana, but I assure you there’s much more to it than that, and I recommend a visit to anyone, not just those who enjoy a joint.

Rashol

The small village of Rashol is accessible via a trek starting from Kasol. The trail is fairly short but quite steep, so, especially on the way up, it could take as long as 3 hours, but once you get to the top the view is worth it. The trail is mapped on Organic Maps, and it’s particularly striking during the rhododendron bloom, from March to July depending on the altitude (All Trails).

The village of Pulga.

Manikaran

Also starting from Kasol, you can reach the village of Manikaran at the end of a mostly flat trek, which runs along the opposite side of the river from the road. It’s a short and pleasant walk, taking about an hour. Once in the village, you can explore the market and visit the hot springs.

If you’d rather not walk back too, there are fairly frequent buses to Kasol (Google Maps).

Malana

This truly unusual village is particularly famous among hashish lovers, as it’s where the famous “Malana cream” is produced, an extremely potent hashish that’s sold on every corner of the village.

Another reason to visit the village is the fact that the locals consider themselves to belong to a “superior” caste. Non-Hindus, like yours truly, can’t have direct contact with people when exchanging objects: you actually have to put them on the ground first, people dodge you in the street, and even entering buildings is forbidden.

Getting to the village isn’t exactly easy, as there’s no public transport. The most practical option is to take a shared taxi from Jari, which can easily be reached by bus from Kasol. It costs 1,600 rupees round trip, and the driver waits three hours at the start of the short path leading to the village. I shared it with two other guys; on your own, I really don’t think it’s worth it. The alternative is hitchhiking, but there’s really very little traffic along the road.

The Khirganga hot springs.

Kalga, Tulga, Pulga and Tosh

These four villages are located where the road ends, about 15 km from Kasol. To be precise, the road ends at Barshani, and from there, you must continue on foot, except for Tosh, which can be reached by taxi.

All four villages offer an extremely laid-back atmosphere, far from civilization, making them ideal for a couple of days of complete relaxation. I personally chose Kalga and stayed four nights at Blue Star Guesthouse, which had a great vibe and excellent food. I then visited Tulga and Pulga as day trips, the latter fairly touristy. I didn’t visit Tosh, but it’s apparently the most popular and touristy of the four villages.

Whichever village you choose, I recommend visiting the nearby Kheerganga hot springs (Google Maps), which can be reached via a 2-3 hour trek, depending on your starting point (All Trails). The hot springs, with their view of the mountains, are a truly unique place, but unfortunately they’ve grown a lot in popularity, with campsites everywhere at their foot. I still think the hike is worth it, though. Many people choose to spend the night here (which is why there are so many campsites), but I went back to Kalga the same day.

There are several buses a day between Kasol and Barshani, 40 rupees. When you decide to leave the valley, you can take the Barshani-Kullu bus, 110 rupees.

How to reach the Parvati Valley?

From Manali there are at least a couple of buses a day going to Kasol. I arrived at the station late and had to do Manali – Kullu 70 rupees, Kullu – Bunthat 15 rupees and finally Bunthat – Kasol 62 rupees. I never waited more than 10 minutes between buses, about 6 hours. There are also direct buses from Delhi and Chandigarh.

Where to sleep in Kasol?

I slept at Hostel Cozy beds, nothing exceptional but all in all I recommend it, quiet location slightly outside the center on the banks of the river.

The village of Kalga.

Dharamsala, McLeod Ganj and Bhagsu

Dharamsala was basically “born” in 1959 with the arrival of the Dalai Lama and the government of Tibet, who fled their country following the Chinese invasion. The official residence of the Dalai Lama is still here today, although apparently he isn’t around very often!

McLeod Ganj and Bhagsu are basically two satellite villages that travelers choose as a base for getting around. Bhagsu in particular is where practically all the hostels are; it’s a bit of a hippie village where hashish and marijuana are widely tolerated. There are quite a few really nice cafés and restaurants where you can spend a few days relaxing, but also plenty of opportunities to take all kinds of classes, from cooking to yoga and massage.

What to do and see in Dharamsala, McLeod Ganj and Bhagsu

As I just said, many people base themselves in Bhagsu and literally don’t leave the village, but there are at least a couple of interesting things to do nearby.

The Dalai Lama’s temple and the Museum of Tibet

A visit to Dharamsala can’t be considered complete without going into the Dalai Lama’s temple, but don’t expect anything amazing: in my opinion, the temple is actually far from impressive. What really struck me, on the other hand, is the nearby Museum of Tibet; admission is free.

Triund

This village/camp is about 3 hours from Bhagsu and is reached at the end of a pleasant trail (All Trails) that’s really easy to follow, a little less so if you decide instead to take one of the shortcuts from the center of Bhagsu that then join the main trail.

Once you get to Triund, if you feel like it, you can continue to the top of Triund Hill (at least another hour and a half); otherwise just relax, enjoy the view and then head back down to the valley. If you want, you can spend the night here; it seems to be really popular, especially among locals, and if you don’t have camping gear, it should be possible to rent it on site.

From Triund, if you wanted, you could continue through the mountains and over Indrahar Pass to the village of Lamu, completing a multi-day trek I don’t have any information about, but I think it’s advisable to have a guide.

Triund with Dharamsala in the distance.

Galu Waterfall and Bhagsu Waterfall

These are two other nice and decidedly less strenuous excursions, especially Bhagsu Waterfall, which is about 20 minutes from the village and, though often crowded, is still worth a visit.

Gallu Waterfall, on the other hand, is a bit out of the way and can be reached in an hour or so starting from Bhagsu (All Trails), not exactly impressive but much less crowded and absolutely a nice place to spend a few hours relaxing.

How to reach Dharamsala?

From Manali there are night buses, about 8 hours. There are also direct buses from Delhi, 12 to 13 hours. N.b. These buses belong to private companies that can’t use the government company’s station in the center, so you’ll be dropped off at this point where there’s a gas station that serves as a bus station. From here, I walked to Bhagsu, but it’s quite a hike uphill; alternatively, you can take a taxi. During the day there are apparently local minibuses going back and forth, but the night buses arrive really early, so if you don’t want to walk, a taxi is the only option.

Where to sleep in Dharamsala?

As mentioned earlier, virtually no one sleeps in Dharamsala, all the hostels are in little Bhagsu where I recommend Eevolve Dharamkot – An Eco Hostel and The Hosteller Mcleodganj, Upper Bhagsu.

The village of Nako in the Spiti Valley.

Leh

The capital of the territory of Leh Ladakh is the ideal base for exploring the region and escaping the monsoons that characterize the summer in the rest of the country. In fact, the high season here runs from May to October, with really pleasant weather and little rainfall during this period. Keep in mind, though, that if you want to reach Leh overland from Manali, the road normally only opens around June.

What to do and see in Leh 

There are at least a couple of sites in town worth visiting but as mentioned above, Leh is best used as a base for exploring the region, which many travelers decide to do aboard the iconic “Enfields.”

Among the sites in town I absolutely recommend the Shanti Stupa at sunset, the view over Leh is really worth it and once the sun goes down the lights of the stupa are turned on, really atmospheric. The iconic Leh Palace, prettier from the outside than from the inside (or so I was told), the entrance costs 300 rupees so I decided to skip it but you can still go up and have a look at it from the outside before continuing to the Tsemo Maitreya temple from where you overlook the palace from above, here the entrance costs 100 rupees.

Of the hundreds of monasteries in the region, the most iconic are probably Thiksay, which is located along the main road and can be easily reached by bus, Spituk also easily reached by bus while Likir and Hemis require a combination of bus+hitchhiking if you don’t want to rent a motorcycle/taxi.

There are also numerous excursions and treks that can be organized from Leh; below I list two options that I personally chose and can recommend.

Shanti Stupa.

Markha Valley trek

This trek has become fairly popular in recent years. It’s really nice, and there are several variations, from the short version I did, which can be completed in four days and three nights, to other versions that can easily stretch the trek to six or more days.

Some updated information from a blog reader who completed the trek starting from Zingchen in the summer of 2023:

  • Accommodation costs on the trek have gone up: 1,500 rupees in all the villages for the usual package of dinner, breakfast, packed lunch and overnight stay, except in Nimaling, where you pay 2,000 rupees.
  • They’ve extended the road in two places, so for part of the trek you walk on a dirt road; mind you, the scenery doesn’t change one bit. Specifically, from Zinchen to Rumbak you walk on a dirt road, and from Rumbak to Yurutse it’s a mix of dirt road and trail, although I think what they tried to build (the dirt road) won’t last long: when we passed, it looked freshly made and had already collapsed in several places. From Yurutse to Skyu it’s trail only, and beautiful, by the way. From Skyu to Sara they’ve now built a dirt road along the valley floor, complete with wooden bridges over the river (that’s for August; I think earlier in the season you still have to ford it). After Sara, stretches of road appear here and there, less continuous and less obvious, which only serious off-road vehicles can drive, all the way to Markha. From Markha to Chogdo it’s trail only.
  • For the short version of the trek, we saw several people getting driven off-road as far as Markha, which means doing the trek in 3 days and two nights.

The main difference is the starting point: if you decide to start from Spituk, you’ll spend the first two or three days walking to reach the Markha Valley proper, crossing Gandala Pass at 4,970 meters; once you’re over the pass, the itinerary is basically the same as the four-day trek.

Trekking in the Markha Valley starting from Spituk

If you’re interested in this version, technically you can arrange a taxi from Spituk to “Zingchen”, where the road ends, and save a day’s walk. The next day you reach Rumbak and from there tackle Gandala Pass before reaching Shingo, where you spend the night.

From Shingo you rejoin the short version of the trek and can reach Sara in a day; from here on, you can follow the itinerary described below.

Trekking in the Markha Valley starting from Chilling/Skyu

This is the shortest and most popular version of the trek, which I personally completed in four days and three nights (All Trails). 

Day 1, Leh – Skyu – Sara

If you’re lucky like me, you can take the only bus of the week to Skyu, which leaves on Sundays at 9:00 from the local bus station, about 3 hours, 140 rupees. The alternative is to arrange a private taxi. Some people decide to get off at Chilling instead of going all the way to Skyu; in my opinion it isn’t worth it, since you walk along the road and the scenery is basically the same.

From Skyu to Sara it’s about 2-3 hours. Once in Sara, I recommend sleeping at the guesthouse up on the right; the lady is extremely kind. Accommodation, dinner, breakfast and packed lunch for 1,200 rupees.

My guesthouse in Hankar.

Day 2, Sara – Hankar 

From Sara to Hankar it’s a 5-7 hour walk; if you want to break up the day, you could spend the night in Markha. In Hankar I recommend continuing to the end of the village, where there’s a really nice guesthouse complete with solar panels for hot water. Again, 1,200 rupees for dinner, breakfast and packed lunch.

Day 3, Hankar – Nimaling

From Hankar to Nimaling, called “Tent Restaurant” on Organic Maps, it’s about 3-4 hours. The scenery starts to get really spectacular: from the almost desert-like valley you start gaining altitude and can see the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayan giants. The altitude also starts to make itself felt, and some people decide to break up the ascent by stopping at Tachungtse. Neither Tachungtse nor Nimaling has guesthouses, only decently equipped campsites where everything you need is provided. In Nimaling it costs 1,400 rupees for the tent, dinner, breakfast and packed lunch.

The view from Konmaru La pass.

Day 4, Nimaling – Chogdo – Leh 

Nimaling is at the foot of Kongmaru La Pass. It takes about an hour to reach the top, where there’s a beautiful 360-degree view of the surrounding mountains. From the top of the pass, it’s about 3-4 hours downhill along a stream that has to be crossed several times; in some places it isn’t exactly clear where, but in any case, nothing impossible.

Once in Chogdo, most travelers have a taxi (arranged before setting off) waiting to take them back to Leh. I simply asked other trekkers, and a couple offered me a free ride in their private jeep. A shared taxi costs about 2,800 rupees, split according to the number of passengers.

Alternatively, you could continue to Shang Sumdo, spend the night there, and take the local bus that leaves for Leh every morning.

To conclude, the trail is really easy to follow, it’s mapped on Organic Maps, and, as many people suggest, you just have to “follow the horse poop”. The only “problem” is that, at least in 2019, some stretches of the river had to be forded “shoes in hand”, as there are no bridges. In any case, it’s absolutely possible to complete the trek on your own, and it’s worth it!

Marmots along the trek.

Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso Lake

The two excursions are also offered separately, and if you’re on a tight budget, Pangong Tso Lake can technically be visited by public transport, but if it fits your budget, I recommend joining a “tour” to visit both places.

In fact, rather than an actual tour, what most agencies offer is a “shared taxi” that takes you from place to place over three days. On the first day, you’ll travel to Khardung La Pass at 5,359 meters, then descend into Nubra Valley. There, you can visit Diskit Monastery, followed by a trip to Hunder for sand dunes (where you can take a camel ride) before heading to the village for the night. My travel companions had already booked their accommodation, but I went to sleep at a really nice guesthouse with a private room, dinner and breakfast for 800 rupees.

On the second day, you reach the lake after a 6-7 hour drive through a surreal landscape. You spend the rest of the day on the shores of this beautiful lake, split in half between India and China, and then return to Leh the next morning via Changla Pass, at 5,360 meters. At the lake, I paid 1,000 rupees for a room with dinner and breakfast. Our group also decided to pay an extra 50 rupees each (300 in total) to visit Hemis Monastery before heading back to Leh.

Khardung La pass.

The price of the shared taxi for three days is 19,000 rupees, with a maximum of 6 people. I went to a couple of agencies and found one with a full car, so I paid 3,200 rupees. Additionally, you’ll need to pay 600 rupees for the Inner Line permit, which is required to visit both Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso Lake. Any agency can arrange it, and you can’t apply for it on your own.

If you’re interested in going to Pangong Tso Lake independently, on this page you’ll find a complete guide, but basically there are only two direct buses to the lake from Leh, on Saturday and Sunday, and the same buses return to Leh on Sunday and Monday respectively. So ideally you leave on Saturday and come back on Sunday; it costs about 500 rupees round trip.

Pangong Tso Lake.

How to reach Leh?

Many travelers choose to fly to Leh to avoid the long overland journey, but if, like me, you prefer the cheapest option, Leh can be reached overland either from Manali via Keylong or from Srinagar in the west.

If you’re taking the government bus (HRTC) from Manali, you’ll first need to catch the bus to Keylong, which departs about once an hour, with the last bus leaving in the afternoon. I took the 13:00 one, 208 rupees, 6-7 hours. Spend the night in Keylong, and the next day the same bus leaves at 5:00 in the morning, 550 rupees, about 14 hours; it’s a journey as endless as it is spectacular.

A more comfortable (but pricier) alternative is the HPTDC tour bus, which costs 2,700 rupees including one night in a dorm, dinner and breakfast at the HPTDC hotel in Chandrabhaga. Finally, minibuses or shared taxis can be arranged through any agency in Manali, but obviously the cost goes up even more.

If you’re doing the route in reverse, the bus to Keylong leaves Leh at 3:30 in the morning. To and from Srinagar, the cheapest option is the JKSRTC government bus, which covers the route in two days with a stop in Kargil (470 rupees); the company also offers two more comfortable options (670 – 1,058 rupees, semi-deluxe and deluxe). Finally, there are private minibuses covering the route overnight, 1,200-1,500 rupees.

Leh Palace.

Where to sleep in Leh?

Personally, exhausted from the long bus ride, I took a private room at the Jan Palace hotel, where I ended up staying for my entire time in Leh; nothing special, but a great location. After some haggling, they gave me a room at the back for a rock-bottom price.

Srinagar

N.b. I didn’t visit Srinagar because I was in Leh in August 2019, just when the protests started and the city was literally cut off from the rest of the world. This has happened before, as the political situation has been unstable for years, so I recommend doing your research before visiting the city.

Srinagar is the summer capital of the state of Jammu and Kashmir and the largest city in the Kashmir region.

The Hunder dunes in the Nubra Valley.

What to do and see in Srinagar

The city is mostly used as a base for visiting the nearby valleys where trekking is one of the main activities, but the city also offers several interesting attractions such as various gardens. The main ones are: Shalimar Bagh Mughal, Nishat Mughal, the Tulip Garden (the festival is held in April) and finally Chashma Shahi. For a great sunset view of the lake and city, go up to Pari Mahal Palace. Another really popular viewpoint is the Shankaracharya temple.

Another highlight in the city is visiting the lakes that surround it. Many people decide to rent a boat for the day and visit Dal Lake and Nigeen where every morning you can visit the floating market.

Finally, visit the city’s historic center, where there are several important mosques such as Jamia Masjid, the largest in Kashmir, and Shah Hamdan whose interiors are particularly ornate.  

In conclusion, as mentioned earlier the possibilities for trekking are almost endless, any agency in town should offer several options.

How to reach Srinagar?

As mentioned earlier, the JKSRTC offers buses from Leh that reach Srinagar in two days, with an overnight stop in Kargil. Alternatively, private companies provide direct buses. From Jammu to the south, it’s a 12-hour bus ride.

Jammu

The plan was to visit Jammu after Srinagar, but for obvious reasons, I had to skip it. That said, the city serves as the winter capital of the state of Jammu and Kashmir, alternating with Srinagar.

What to do and see in Jammu

Jammu is known as the city of temples, the main ones being Raghunath, Ranbireshwar, Bawey Wali Mata and Maha Maya. Other places of interest are Bagh-E-Bahu park and the Amar Mahal Museum.

How to reach Jammu?

Jammu is well connected by train to the south; Amritsar is about 5 hours away, while Delhi is around 10 hours. If you plan to continue north to Srinagar, it’s preferable to take the train to Udhampur and then continue by bus. Alternatively, there are direct buses to and from Srinagar, which take about 12 hours.

The Buddha of Diskit Monastery in the Nubra Valley.

Amritsar

The city is considered the spiritual and cultural capital of the Sikh religion. It isn’t chaotic, and the small center is a pleasant place to walk around.

What to do and see in Amritsar

The Golden Temple (or Harmandir Sahib) in the city center is the most important temple of the Sikh religion and absolutely worth a visit. Admission is free, and it’s particularly atmospheric at sunset, when, lit up, it literally comes to life. I didn’t do it myself, but an interesting experience is sleeping in the temple dorms: food and lodging are completely free, but obviously it’s a good idea to leave an offering.

Another very similar temple, though not as spectacular, is the Durgiana Temple. It’s slightly outside the center and much less crowded than the Golden Temple; I recommend a visit.

The Golden Temple.

The ceremony at Wagah Border

The Wagah (Pakistani side) or Attari (Indian side) border is the only open border between the two countries, and a rather peculiar ceremony takes place here every day. The border is only open from 10:00 to 16:00, and at around 15:00 a real closing ceremony begins, during which the border forces of the two countries parade in traditional costumes and put on a show while people watch from the stands.

I watched the ceremony from the Indian side, but obviously you’re just as welcome on the Pakistani side. Admission is free and – as much as I don’t approve of these dick-measuring contests between the two countries, which certainly don’t need to raise the tension – I think it’s absolutely unmissable.

Hostels organize shared tuk tuks, or alternatively there are proper organized buses. I was coming from Pakistan and easily found a minibus with an extra seat that took me to Amritsar for 100 rupees.

N.b. The border opening and closing times seem to change often, and so does the start of the ceremony, so check on the spot. Also, you can’t enter the “stadium” with luggage; I had to leave my big backpack in storage.

To conclude, if you love kulfi, you absolutely have to try Bombay Kulfi; it seems incredible, but they even have sugar-free flavors!

The Wagah border ceremony.

How to reach Amritsar?

Amritsar is a major railway hub, well-connected to all the key cities in the northwest of India, with direct trains even reaching as far as Mumbai and Varanasi. Bus services are also available to all major cities, including Manali to the north, from where many travelers begin their journey into the heart of the Himalayas.

If you’re arriving or continuing your journey to Pakistan (the only border crossing between the two countries), the public bus that runs during the day costs 35 rupees from Amritsar station, about every hour. From the last bus stop to immigration it’s a couple of kilometers, 20 rupees by tuk tuk. The border officially closes at 15:30 Pakistan time, 16:00 India time; the ceremony starts at 18:00, 17:30 in Pakistan.

Where to sleep in Amritsar?

I slept at Gostops Amritsar and I recommend it.

The Durgiana Mandir temple.

South India

By South India I basically mean everything south of Mumbai. It gets really hot in this region during the summer, so it’s recommended to visit between October and March.

What follows is a short description of the main destinations in the region. My trip to India ended in Mumbai, so I didn’t visit the south of the country. In short, what you’ll find below is mostly information gathered online, with the aim of making this guide as complete as possible.

Mumbai

This giant metropolis, with a population of around 20 million, is India’s largest city and the capital of the state of Maharashtra. It’s also considered the country’s commercial capital and one of India’s largest ports.

What to do and see in Mumbai

I spent less than 24 hours in Mumbai, but it was more than enough to take in the city’s chaos. I spent the afternoon with friends, not seeing much of the city itself, and spent most of my time at Girgaum Chowpatty Beach, particularly recommended at sunset: extremely pleasant, with loads of really cheap little restaurants where you can hang out for a couple of hours. If you’re staying further north, Juhu Beach is a great alternative.

Other attractions in the southern part of the city include the Gateway of India, the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya museum, Fashion Street, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (a UNESCO World Heritage site), and Colaba. Lastly, guided tours of Mumbai’s slums are available, with Dharavi probably being the most popular; many tours use their proceeds to fund charitable projects within the slums.

Sunset at Chowpatty beach.

How to reach Mumbai?

The city is extremely well-connected to the rest of the country, with its railway station and airport being among the most important in India. There are direct connections to nearly every corner of the country.

Where to sleep in Mumbai?

I slept at Nap on Map Hostel and recommend it, conveniently located really close to the airport and train station. If you prefer to be closer to the historic center of Mumbai check out Hebbar’s Heritage Home and Backpackers Panda Colaba.

Ajanta and Ellora

It’s a good idea to base yourself in Aurangabad to visit both sites.

The Ellora Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage site, form an impressive complex of rock-cut shrines representing no fewer than three different religions: Buddhism, Hinduism, and Jainism. A tuk tuk from Aurangabad to the caves should cost around 600 rupees. On the way, you can stop at Daulatabad Fort. The entrance fee for the Ellora Caves is 600 rupees for foreigners.

The following day, visit the Ajanta Caves. A taxi should cost 1,200 rupees and it’s worth it if shared; otherwise the bus costs 150 one way. The Ajanta Caves are a group of thirty Buddhist monasteries, also carved into the rock, and here too admission costs 600 rupees.

The Ajanta caves.

How to reach Aurangabad?

There are direct connections from Mumbai by both train and bus, about 7 hours.

Where to sleep in Aurangabad?

Zostel Aurangabad is probably the best hostel in town. 

Nashik

This is an ancient city that some compare to Varanasi, for Hindus it’s one of the holiest cities in the world. Here the ghats are more “authentic” and not yet touched by mass tourism, so if you’re looking for a place where you can witness Hindu rituals without being hassled by someone who wants to sell you a boat tour or the ceremony of the day, Nashik seems to be the ideal place to spend a day or two.

How to reach Nashik?

Nashik is only 180 km from Mumbai and there are frequent buses, 4 to 5 hours of travel, while to Aurangabad it’s about 6 hours.

Where to sleep in Nashik?

Kubera Dormitory seems to be the only decent hostel in town.

The ghats of Nashik.

Bidar and Bijapur

Bidar and Bijapur are even further off the usual tourist routes. The Bidar fort is one of the largest in the country but strangely doesn’t attract large crowds, in fact to date admission is free and you may be one of the few people there during your visit.

To reach Bidar coming from Nashik you must first go through Gulbarga from where it’s about a three-hour bus ride. 

Bijapur, on the other hand, has more than a few sites of interest. Palaces, tombs, temples and minarets completely built of basalt make the city’s architecture particularly interesting. Again with the advantage of enjoying all the major sites without many other tourists.   

To reach Bijapur from Bidar it’s about 7 hours by bus.

The Bidar fort.

Hampi

Here we’re back on the beaten track: Hampi has become an extremely popular destination over the years. The town is famous among travelers for its rice paddies, giant boulders, temples and laid-back atmosphere. Once the capital of Vijayanagar, an empire dating back to the fourteenth century, its ruins are spread over no less than 26 square kilometers.

Hampi backpacking guide.

How to reach Hampi?

From Bijapur take the direct bus to Hospet (3-4 hours) and from here it’s about 30 minutes by Tuk Tuk or local bus. Hospet also serves as a crossroads if you travel by train; in fact, the nearest train station is located here.

Where to sleep in Hampi?

Camping is a really popular option around here, if you’re looking for more comfortable accommodation check out Sunrise Guest House.

Virupaksha Temple, Hampi.

Goa

Undoubtedly one of the country’s most popular destinations, the small state has a rather peculiar history; in fact, the region was a Portuguese colony for a full 450 years and was only annexed to the rest of the country in 1961!

Apparently, the experience varies hugely depending on the beach you choose; in fact, some have been completely overrun and transformed by mass tourism. Two beaches still retain an authentic atmosphere: Palolem and Patnem. 

If you’re visiting the region for the first time and also want to do some cultural tourism, Panaji, the state capital, is definitely a good place to start. Bardez is the center of nightlife, while Pernem is considered the “laid-back” area.

How to reach Goa?

There are direct connections from Mumbai (to the north) by train as well as overnight buses, about 13 hours. From Hampi by bus it’s about 10 hours.

A beach in Goa.

Gokarna

Gokarna is reminiscent of Goa before mass tourism, but apparently things are changing rapidly, especially along the main beach.

There are, however, many beaches, often accessible only by boat, where you can still feel the hippie vibe that many people come here looking for; one of these beaches seems to be Om Beach.

Bangalore

The city is the third largest in India and is considered the tech startup capital of the country. It’s quickly becoming popular among travelers as a city where you can spend a few wild nights out in clubs and bars, especially in the Indiranagar neighborhood.

Apart from that, there doesn’t seem to be much else to do; the city is of little historical interest, but at least it’s much more livable than the other big Indian cities.

Bangalore backpacking guide.

Bangalore.

Kodagu

Just six hours by bus from Bangalore lies this wild region, perfect for all nature lovers. Madikeri, the capital, is the ideal base for organizing excursions to the many waterfalls, surrounded by a landscape that’s unusually mountainous for southern India.

On this page you’ll find some interesting ideas.

Coffee plantation in Kodagu.

Mysore

The city, also known as “Mysuru,” is considered the cultural capital of Karnataka and is ranked as the second cleanest city in India! The ancient city has a remarkable architectural heritage, with Mysore Palace undoubtedly the number one attraction. There are also numerous parks scattered around the city center.

A popular day trip is to Srirangapatna, an ancient fortress city just 20 km from Mysore, where there are numerous sites of historical interest.

Mysore backpacking guide.

Mysore Palace.

Kochi

The port city is particularly famous for the ancient Chinese fishing nets given by the Chinese emperor to the kingdom of Kochi in the 14th century as a token of friendship. Another particularly interesting site is the Hill Palace Museum where the Cochin royal crown is displayed, 1.75kg of pure gold with as many as 95 diamonds and more than 2,000 other precious stones. 

Alleppey

The only reason to visit Alleppey is to arrange a houseboat and explore the backwaters. The backwaters are simply a network of lagoons, lakes, rivers and canals that form a real ecosystem, which locals use for fishing, farming and transporting goods.

There are hundreds of boats and tours to choose from; the most popular option is three days and two nights.

A houseboat in Alleppey.

Munnar and Periyar National Park

Munnar is a classic hill station that the British once used to escape the hot Indian summers. The area is dominated by tea plantations, with plenty of trekking opportunities around the town.

About 100 kilometers to the south lies Periyar National Park, originally established as a sanctuary for tigers and elephants. It now covers no less than 925 square kilometers and is home to many endangered species. Access to the park is through the town of Thekkady, where guided excursions can be arranged.

Munnar.

Varkala

In the far south of India, Varkala is a coastal town away from mass tourism where you can spend a few days relaxing on the beach. Papanasam is the most popular beach. 

A beach in Varkala.

Suggested itineraries in India

Visiting all the places I’ve talked about so far would take months, if not years. Below I list some of the classic itineraries in the country, divided by region, which can easily be combined with each other to create itineraries lasting several months.

As with any country, there’s no perfect itinerary for a given amount of time, so take what follows as inspiration and modify it, or create your own itinerary based on your interests/budget and the time of year!

7-day itinerary in India

A week isn’t a lot of time, but it should be enough to see some highlights and get a taste of India.

New Delhi (2 nights)

Day 1:

Depending on the time you have, you could visit Humayun’s Tomb, similar in architecture to the Taj Mahal, Qutub Minar, home to the world’s tallest brick minaret, and the iconic India Gate, or spend a few hours relaxing in Lodhi Gardens.

Day 2:

Visit the historic center following the itinerary described in the section on New Delhi.

Agra (1 night)

Day 3:

Transfer from Delhi to Agra. If you want, you could visit the Taj Mahal in the afternoon, but if you want to avoid the heat and the crowds, it’s better to do it the following morning.

Jaipur (3 nights)

Day 4:

Visit the Taj Mahal at sunrise and right after that the Agra Fort. Transfer to Jaipur in the afternoon.

Day 5:

Visit the historic center and at least one of Jaipur’s forts.

Day 6:

Shopping, relaxing, visit other sites in Jaipur, or organize a trip to Chand Baori and Bhangarh Fort.

Day 7:

Return to Delhi.

10-day itinerary in India

With a few more days available, I recommend following the itinerary just described up to the fourth day, and then you have two alternatives.

First option.

Varanasi (2 nights)

Day 4:

Visit the Taj Mahal at sunrise and right after that the Agra Fort. Night train to Varanasi.

Day 5:

Explore the city and its ghats.

Khajuraho (2 nights)

Day 6:

Spend the morning in Varanasi and in the afternoon take the night train to Khajuraho.

Day 7:

Explore the temples of Khajuraho.

Orchha (2 nights)

Day 8:

Transfer to Orchha.

Day 9:

Explore the town’s fort and temples.

Day 10:

Return to New Delhi.

Second option. This itinerary can be considered a 10-day tour of Rajasthan with a short stop in Agra. Follow the itinerary described above up to day 5.

Typical look of men in Rajasthan.

Jodhpur (1 night)

Day 6:

Transfer to Jodhpur. Visit the Blue City in the afternoon and climb Singhoria Hill for sunset.

Jaisalmer (3 nights)

Day 7:

Visit Jodhpur fort in the morning and then transfer to Jaisalmer in the afternoon. 

Day 8:

If you wanted, you could explore the fort early in the morning and then in the afternoon start the desert safari.

Day 9:

If you opted for the desert safari, you return to Jaisalmer in the late morning so you have enough time to catch the overnight bus/train to Delhi.

Day 10:

Return to New Delhi.

15-day itinerary in India

With 15 days to spare I’d personally opt for the second version of the 10-day itinerary, perhaps adding one or two stops that could be Pushkar and Udaipur.

Chang La pass.

3-week itinerary in India

Three weeks is a good compromise to visit most of the destinations included in the itineraries described so far. Going into detail, I recommend following the first version of the 10-day itinerary and then once you arrive in Orchha head to Jaipur and visit Rajasthan as described in the second version of the 10-day itinerary. In summary:

New Delhi (2 nights)

Agra (1 night)

Varanasi (2 nights)

Khajuraho (2 nights)

Orchha (2 nights)

Jaipur (3 nights)

Jodhpur (2 nights)

Pushkar (1 night)

Jaisalmer (3 nights)

Udaipur (2 nights)

New Delhi (1 night)

15-day itinerary in North India

This is a perfect itinerary for the summer, when temperatures in the rest of the country are unbearable. I’ve included the Spiti Valley because I think it’s really worth it, but if you’re not interested, I recommend replacing that week with a few days between the Parvati Valley and Dharamshala.

Two other cities that can easily be “squeezed” into the itinerary are Amritsar and Rishikesh, but temperatures there won’t be as pleasant during the summer.

Finally, Leh is definitely a city where you could easily spend a week between treks and various excursions, and it’s absolutely worth a visit, especially when rain and heat are the norm in the rest of the country. With only two weeks available, though, I strongly recommend flying, as the bus ride from Manali and back alone would take up 4 days.

Trekking to Lake Chandratal.

New Delhi (2 nights)

Day 1:

Depending on the time you have, you could visit Humayun’s Tomb, similar in architecture to the Taj Mahal, Qutub Minar, home to the world’s tallest brick minaret, and the iconic India Gate, or spend a few hours relaxing in Lodhi Gardens.

Day 2:

Visit the historic center following the itinerary described in the section on New Delhi. Night bus or train to Shimla.

Shimla (1 night)

Day 3:

Explore The Mall and The Ridge, go up Jakhoo Hill.

Spiti Valley (8 nights)

Day 4:

Shimla Reckong Peo bus. Request permit. Spend the night in Kalpa.

Day 5:

Bus Reckong Peo – Nako. Explore the village and spend the night here.

Day 6:

Nako – Tabo bus. Visit the monastery and spend the night here.

Day 7:

Tabo – Dhankar bus. Visit the monastery and spend the night here.

Day 8:

Dhankar – Kaza bus. Spend the afternoon in town and then take the bus to Key Gompa. Spend the night here.

Day 9:

Attend morning prayers at the monastery and if you wish, hitchhike to Kibber, spend a few hours here or return directly to Kaza.

Day 10:

Bus to Lake Chandratal. Spend the night here.

Day 11:

Bus to Manali.

Manali (2 nights)

Day 12:

Explore the city and relax in one of the many cafes.

Day 13:

Hike to Jogini Falls and nearby Vashisht. Night bus to Delhi.

Day 14:

Return to Delhi.

Three-week itinerary in North India

The extra week should let you add a few stops to the itinerary just described without too much trouble. The two best options are probably a week in Leh, in which case I recommend flying from Delhi at the start of the trip and then heading down to Manali by bus; that way, if you’re on a tight budget, you’ll only have to fly once.

Otherwise, spend the extra week between the Parvati Valley and Dharamshala.

South India itineraries

As I said before, I haven’t been south of Mumbai, and the information here comes purely from research. That said, two itineraries in the south of the country could be the following.

From Mumbai to Goa in two to three weeks

Mumbai -> Ajanta -> Ellora -> Nashik -> Bidar -> Bijapur -> Hampi -> Goa

From Bangalore to Varkala in two to three weeks (Kerala)

Bangalore -> Kodagu -> Mysore -> Kochi -> Munnar -> Periyar -> Varkala

How to get around India

In a country of this size, distances can be worrisome, but I guarantee that travel is surprisingly efficient even for those traveling on a tight budget who can’t afford domestic flights.

Trains in India

Trains are undoubtedly the best way to travel in India: comfortable, relatively fast and cheap, they’re ideal for all backpackers. The rail network is well developed and practically all the main cities are served by trains, except for the north of the country, where the mountains make it impractical.

Here are some practical tips. Most trains have 5 classes, in order of price:

  • “2S” or “Second Sitting” is the cheapest, but I strongly advise against it: people are crammed in. No air conditioning.
  • “SL” or “Sleeper” is already a good option: the compartments have eight “beds” and you travel relatively comfortably, but there’s no air conditioning, so during the summer months you’ll be dying of the heat.
  • “3A” or “AC 3-Tier” is the most popular option among travelers: the layout is identical to the “Sleeper”, but here there’s air conditioning; personally, I almost always traveled in this class. Sheets and a pillow are provided for the night.
  • “2A” or “AC 2-Tier”: compared to “3A”, there are two fewer beds, and each bed has its own curtain.
  • “1A” or “AC First Class”: first class has really spacious compartments with two or four beds, and the bathrooms apparently even have a shower.

3AC and Sleeper layout.

The only problem with trains is that for most routes they need to be booked at least a couple of days in advance, and for extremely busy routes even weeks!

Practically every hostel/hotel/agency can book a train for you, but obviously the service costs money, so I recommend simply registering on the official website; on this page you’ll find a detailed guide in case you run into problems. I used an Indian number and had no problems; with a foreign number, registration could be more difficult.

Some people complain that they can’t pay with a foreign card, but you just need to enable the option if it isn’t there: go to “My Profile”, then “Preferred Bank List”, and select “International Cards”.

Finally, while booking you might see a ticket sold as “WL” or “Waiting List”, which means you’re one of the “reserves” in case someone cancels their ticket; you’re also often given a probability of getting the ticket. For example, if you’re WL10 a week before departure, the ticket is practically guaranteed.

If you prefer to skip the hassle of registering and don’t mind paying a little extra, you can simply use 12Go.

Buses in India

Where trains don’t go, rest assured that buses do, and they’re also a great alternative for those who don’t feel like booking their train ticket in advance. In fact, buses tend to have seats available even at the last minute.

Practically every state in India has its own bus company, which is more often than not the cheapest option, though not always the most comfortable. The so-called VIP buses, which offer a train-style berth, are in fact run by private companies.

The bus situation is much less complicated: Redbus has an extremely complete list of available long- and medium-distance buses, both private and government-run, and foreign cards are accepted without any problem.

From personal experience, if you want to save money, it’s still better to buy the ticket directly from the bus company rather than through Redbus. More than a few times, I simply looked up the bus on the app and then went to buy my ticket at the office, saving money, although sometimes it’s really impractical.

Another app that works really well, for both buses and trains, is Ixigo. Both Ixigo and Redbus frequently offer cashback and various discounts.

Taxis in India

Taxis and tuk tuks can be found practically everywhere in India, and knowing how to haggle is essential. A good strategy is to ask your hostel/hotel how much a given route should cost if you’re heading somewhere. Another technique you can’t go wrong with is offering half of what you’re asked.

Especially in cities, if you have a local SIM, it pays to use apps like Uber and Ola; the latter was founded right here in India and is slightly cheaper. In both cases, the fare offered is still better than what you’d get after 10 minutes of haggling.

A taxi in the Nubra Valley.

Motorcycles in India

Lots of travelers choose to buy a motorcycle during their trip to India, and it’s particularly popular in the north of the country, where spectacular roads and mountain passes are a real paradise for motorcyclists. With your own vehicle, you can also reach places that are otherwise hard to get to. The iconic Royal Enfields normally sell for around 2,000 dollars on the used market.

Rental prices vary depending on engine size, but usually range between 1,000 and 2,000 rupees a day. Many people decide to rent motorcycles to explore the Spiti Valley from Manali and the area around Leh. Given the road conditions, I only recommend it to experienced riders.

Hitchhiking in India

Hitchhiking works pretty well, and especially in the north of the country I used it more than a few times without ever waiting very long. If you absolutely don’t want to pay for the ride, it’s a good idea to say so, because you may be asked for a small fee. Hitchhiking isn’t recommended for women traveling alone.

Travel to India: costs

So, how much does a trip to India cost? Not much, if you’re a backpacker or in any case travel on a budget. India is undoubtedly one of the cheapest countries in the world: if you really put your mind to it and travel slowly, you can easily get by on a budget of just 10-15€ a day.

Even if you move around often and treat yourself now and then – in short, travel with a bit more “style” – it’s unlikely you’ll end up spending more than 20-25€ a day.

Cost of accommodation in India

In major cities and tourist destinations hostels are numerous, cheap and for the most part really nice and clean in spite of what you might think. A good hostel normally costs around 4-5€ a night in a dorm; for a private room, expect to pay about double.

Some hostel chains, such as Moustache (among others), offer discounted rates to those who book their stay directly at the hostel or through their official website; it’s worth taking a look or asking at reception.

Outside the classic tourist destinations, hostels are scarce and are replaced by so-called guesthouses. My experience with them varies a lot: I’ve had great stays and some a bit less so, but nothing outrageous in any case. Take a quick look around before checking in and you shouldn’t have any problems.

To conclude, Couchsurfing seems to be extremely popular, especially in big cities; if you’re on a really tight budget or simply want to come into contact with locals, check it out.

Souvenirs in India.

Cost of transportation in India

As I said before, although India is a developing country, the public transport network is extremely efficient but also really cheap! A long-distance bus (10-12 hours) costs roughly 6-8€, and trains, especially if you’re happy with “Sleeper Class”, cost even less!

Cost of attractions in India

The only “really expensive” thing is admission to monuments and various attractions, which for tourists is normally 10-20 times more expensive than for locals; 600 rupees, about 7€, seems to be fairly standard for government-run buildings and monuments.

Free withdrawals in India

Two banks that have never given me any problems and allow withdrawals without any kind of fee (using the right card) are Bank Of Baroda and State Bank of India.

To conclude, absolutely don’t forget to haggle over any price. Of all the countries I’ve been to, India is by far the one where the culture of bargaining is most deeply rooted, and, especially when it comes to tourists, the prices are real rip-offs. Unfortunately, white people are very often seen as walking bags of money: everything is negotiable, the tuk tuks that 9 times out of 10 throw out absurd figures, accommodation, souvenirs and even food!

Travel to India: safety

Is India a safe country? Is traveling to India safe? These are questions I’ve been asked many times. The short answer is yes: I think it’s extremely hard to feel in danger in India. As far as safety goes, in many respects it’s comparable to Southeast Asia: violent crime is extremely rare, and although I absolutely don’t recommend walking alone at night on the outskirts of big cities, with a bit of common sense and by following some practical tips, you’re unlikely to have any problems. Things are different when it comes to the rip-offs described in the previous section, but these really have little to do with your physical safety.

One of the biggest problems travelers run into concerns women only. Although for obvious reasons I haven’t experienced it firsthand, I’ve met at least a couple of girls who had some problems during their trip to India, such as unpleasant stares. One girl told me she’d been groped on a night bus, and in general the attitude of Indian men toward foreign women can be extremely inappropriate. I don’t have any particular advice on this except to try to dress modestly and, if possible, choose seats next to other women (Redbus shows them in pink).

Traveling in India without getting diarrhea seems to be practically impossible, especially if you’ve only just arrived and haven’t had the time your stomach needs to adapt. Always avoid brushing your teeth with tap water. In general, be careful what you drink and, if you want to do both the environment and your wallet a favor, use a filter water bottle!

Although marijuana use is extremely tolerated in the north of the country, especially among tourists, you should be extremely careful, as the police, fortunately or unfortunately, know they can squeeze a good amount of money out of you. I’m only speaking from hearsay, but according to the locals too, everything can be solved by paying the right amount, so to avoid more serious problems it’s best to pull out the cash and settle the matter as quickly as possible, before too many people get involved!

Finally, especially if you plan to trek above 3500 meters in the north of the country, the only two insurance companies that cover this activity (as far as I know) are World Nomads, which lets you insure treks up to 6000 meters (by adding it as an extra activity, as shown on this page), and TrueTraveller, which, by adding the “Extreme Pack”, offers coverage for treks above 4600m. As I said before, most other insurance policies stop at 3500 meters, some even lower.

Are you planning a trip to India? Check out these posts:

Which travel backpack to choose

What to bring on your trip

Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!

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