Pakistan Travel Guide

From the incredible hospitality of its people to the second-highest mountain range in the world, the Karakoram, Pakistan is an amazing country that, unfortunately, doesn’t have the best reputation. However, I assure you that after visiting it in person, you’ll definitely change your mind.

I spent about a month backpacking (here you can find the video of my trip – in Italian, but you can turn on the subtitles) and exploring mainly the north of the country, and in this guide you’ll find a ton of information and advice to plan your independent trip as best you can, away from the main tourist circuits, as always with an eye on the budget.

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Hopper Glacier.

When to visit Pakistan

Considering that most travelers come to Pakistan to visit its renowned mountains, the best time to go is roughly from April to October. During the rest of the year, a great many areas are completely inaccessible due to snow, and generally, temperatures are extremely low, making travel within the country very difficult.

On the other hand, if you’re not planning to visit the Karakoram and simply want to focus on the cities of historical and cultural interest found in the vast plains of Pakistan, the best time to go is from November to March, that is, during the winter when temperatures are much more pleasant. During the summer, temperatures can easily exceed 40 degrees Celsius and, I can assure you from personal experience, it’s absolutely not pleasant.

Documents and vaccinations to enter Pakistan

Getting a visa has never been easier. In fact, as of January 2019 you can apply online through the official website, and with an Italian passport you can even apply for the so-called “visa on arrival” (the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours), which is usually issued in 48-72 hours. The three-month single-entry tourist visa costs 35$, but if you want you can apply for longer, multiple-entry visas – obviously the cost is higher. Through the same website you can also extend the visa in case it’s needed. On this page you’ll find the cost calculator.

N.b. Although the website implies that the on arrival visa is accepted only at the airport, after contacting immigration through the appropriate form, I was told that the on arrival visa would be accepted without any problem even at the land border with India and indeed it was. For other land borders I recommend contacting immigration.

Update October 2024:

As of 14 August 2024, the e-Visa will be issued free of charge within 24 hours, allowing a 90-day stay.

Pakistan doesn’t require mandatory vaccinations, but Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B are always recommended.

For up-to-date information on visas and everything else, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).

Altit Fort.

What to do and see in Pakistan

In this guide, prices are often expressed in the local currency. The official currency of Pakistan is called the “Pakistani Rupee” abbreviated as “PKR.”

The exchange rate is about 1€ = 310 PKR. For the current exchange rate, I suggest you look at this page.

Pakistan is a rather large country, but, as mentioned earlier, most visitors focus—for good reasons—almost exclusively on the northern regions, more precisely on the state of Gilgit-Baltistan, basically following the Karakorum Highway, the road that crosses the Karakorum mountain range all the way to the border with China.

I spent the vast majority of my time in Gilgit-Baltistan during my trip to Pakistan, so you’ll find that the information on this region is the most comprehensive. However, if you’re interested in other areas of the country, don’t despair; I’ve gathered quite a bit of information that I believe will be helpful.

N.b. Several times throughout the guide you’ll find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the Alltrails app you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.

Islamabad

Built basically from nothing in 1960 for the sole purpose of becoming the country’s capital, Islamabad is a city that is truly atypical compared to the rest of Pakistan: the roads through the city are wide and flowing, there’s plenty of greenery, and seeing luxury homes and cars is by no means uncommon; in fact, the country’s entire political class and elite live here.

What to do and see in Islamabad

Given its recent founding, the city doesn’t have much to offer in terms of history. My advice is to devote your time to other destinations. However, if you have even one day to spare, there are a couple of things worth visiting.

I recommend visiting the Faisal Mosque (Google Maps), which is the country’s largest mosque and one of the largest in the world. It can be easily reached by taxi or, even better, using Uber, and regardless of where you stay, it shouldn’t cost more than a couple of euros.

Another interesting activity in the city is visiting the Margalla Hills: this hilly area right at the gates of Islamabad (many of the trails start from the city itself!) offers plenty of opportunities for day hikes. During my visit in August it was really too hot, but if it’s something you’re interested in, Trail 3 (All Trails) and Trail 5 (All Trails) seem to be the most popular.

If you just want to enjoy the view of the city without the effort, take a taxi or rent a motorcycle and go to Monal (Google Maps). This viewpoint at the end of trail number 3 is also accessible by road. There are a couple of restaurants and cafes where you can watch the sunset over the city. Another vantage point even closer to the city is Daman-e-Koh (Google Maps), which can be reached either on foot or by car.

Faisal Mosque.

How to reach Islamabad?

Islamabad is connected with direct buses to many of Pakistan’s major cities; there are buses from Lahore about every half hour and the journey takes more or less four hours. Buses from Gilgit, on the other hand, leave in the late morning/early afternoon to arrive early morning in Islamabad, about 15 hours.

Where to sleep in Islamabad?

Backpackers Hostel & Guest House is a really excellent place to stay, more than a hostel it’s an apartment used as a hostel, really spacious common room, shared kitchen, great wifi, friendly and helpful staff. I recommend booking early as they don’t have many beds and it’s often sold out. Another great option is Coyote Den Travelers Hostel Islamabad.

If you’re looking for something more luxurious, Shelton’s Rezidor has good reviews and is a short walk from the Faisal Mosque.

Lahore

Lahore is the second largest city in Pakistan and is for all intents and purposes considered the cultural capital of the country. If you’re arriving overland from India then it’s a must see but I strongly recommend a visit to anyone.

What to do and see in Lahore

The walled city (Google Maps) is where all the major tourist attractions and historic buildings are located. I strongly recommend spending at least a couple of hours walking through the narrow streets that are teeming with life; bazaars and street food are literally everywhere, and the best part is that traffic within the walled city is virtually absent. From Mall Road, where most of the accommodations are located, to the walled city via taxi is 100-200 rupees during the day and 200-300 rupees in the evening.

Badshahi Mosque

Again this is one of the largest mosques in the world. The inner courtyard can hold up to 100,000 worshippers and, unlike the one in Islamabad, it has a more classical style (Google Maps).

Any taxi driver knows which entrance is correct, but in case you want to walk to the mosque, the only entrance for the public is the one located here. This is a really large complex where in addition to the mosque there are a couple of restaurants, a nice green area, the Lahore Fort (Google Maps), and a Sikh temple (Google Maps).

I arrived late in the afternoon and got to visit the mosque only. The entrance is free but leaving your shoes at the shoe check outside costs 20 rupees and when you enter you’re directed to the museum where on the way out you’re asked to leave an offering.

The temple can be visited only in the morning (I don’t remember the time) while the entrance (200 rupees) to the fort is only until 17:40; the mosque, on the other hand, is open until 20:00.

Badshahi Mosque.

Wazir Khan Mosque

There’s another really interesting mosque in the walled city that is worth visiting. It’s called Wazir Khan (Google Maps) and it was built in the 17th century. While not as impressive as Badshahi, it’s definitely worth a visit, if only because for 100-200 rupees (the price is negotiable) you can climb one of the towers on either side of the mosque, from where you get incredible views of the city.

Lahore City Museum

It’s the largest and most important museum in the country, opened in 1864 during the colonial period. It has a really impressive collection of artifacts, ranging from Buddhist to Islamic art, with lots of manuscripts, weapons, costumes, and ancient jewelry. It’s open every day from 9:00 to 19:00 except Fridays, and the admission fee for foreigners is 1000 rupees (Google Maps).

The ceremony at Wagah Border

The Wagah (Pakistani side) or Attari (Indian side) border is the only open border between the two countries, and a rather peculiar ceremony takes place here every day. The border is open only from 10:00 to 16:00, and at around 15:00 a full-blown closing ceremony begins, during which the border forces of the two states parade in traditional costumes and put on a real show while people watch from the stands.

I attended the ceremony from the Indian side, but of course you’re just as welcome on the Pakistani side. Admission is free and—as much as I don’t approve of this pissing contest between the two countries, which certainly don’t need to raise the tension—I think it’s absolutely not to be missed.

A tuk tuk from Lahore to the border costs 600/700 rupees and if you ask the driver to wait for your return you can probably agree on 1,000 rupees round trip; it’s just over 30km, about an hour.

N.b. The opening and closing times of the border seem to change often, and so does the start of the ceremony, so I suggest you check on the spot.

Ceremony at the Wagah Border.

How to reach Lahore?

To and from Islamabad there are buses practically every half hour. Of the “nice” buses, Nazi express is the cheapest company, 900 rupees. Skyways 1,100 rupees and Faisal Movers 1,200 rupees. The terminals of the three companies are all located a short distance from each other, south of Lahore. A tuk tuk from Mall Road costs about 300 rupees.

If you’re coming from India (Amritsar), you could combine the Wagah Border ceremony with the border crossing: go through immigration and then go back to watch the ceremony; this way it should also be easier to find a ride to Lahore once the ceremony is over.

Where to sleep in Lahore?

Lahore Backpackers seems to be the most popular option among backpackers, I slept not far away at Regale Internet Inn, the internet is really fast and the staff is friendly and helpful, but don’t expect anything more as far as the rooms and common areas go.

Wazir Khan Mosque.

Gilgit

Gilgit is the capital of the state of Gilgit-Baltistan and a practically obligatory stop for anyone who wants to explore the north of the country. The city itself doesn’t have much to offer, but it’s still the ideal base to start exploring the surrounding valleys.

In any case, since you’ll most likely have to spend at least a day or two there, when you arrive and before heading back to Islamabad, I recommend taking a walk along the main road that leads to the Bazaar and, if you’re a chicken lover, you absolutely have to try this restaurant.

Another attraction not far from the city that you could visit is the Kargah Buddha (Google Maps), an archaeological site dating back to the 7th century located approximately 8 km west of Gilgit, where you’ll find a representation of the Buddha carved into the rock. It seems they’ve started charging foreigners 1000 rupees; if you’re on a tight budget, it’s probably not worth it.

How to reach Gilgit?

From Islamabad there are at least two companies that operate night buses every night: NATCO, which is the government company, has several departures from 14:00 until 21:00, but runs can be canceled if the bus isn’t full. Along the way there are two checkpoints for tourists where you have to hand in a copy of your passport. The ticket costs 3020 PKR. A blog reader had a positive experience: “The bus was comfortable, didn’t make intermediate stops to load people along the way (as is always the case in India on public buses), and it took 16 hours because of a landslide after Chilas.”

I preferred to opt for Faisal Movers on the advice of the hostel where I stayed in Islamabad; it has departures at 20:00 and 22:00, the cost is 4000 PKR but the service is nothing short of impeccable, the buses are new and every seat has an airplane-style screen. Highly recommended, also based on the stories of other travelers who took NATCO. In any case, it’s at least 15 hours on the bus.

Another tip for those traveling on a budget: once you get off at the Gilgit bus station, without taking a taxi, small Suzuki trucks pass along the main road (to the side of the station) that go back and forth along the road and act as public transportation; the ride costs only 25 rupees.

On the other hand, for those with a more generous budget, limited time, or a desire to save 15 hours by bus, Gilgit has daily flights to Islamabad for about 100€. However, be aware that because of bad weather at high altitude, flights can be canceled without notice.

October 2024 update from a blog reader:

We had booked a flight to Gilgit, but it was canceled, as happens most of the time. To go north it’s always better to fly to Skardu, but we didn’t know that and traveled overland both ways, and the journey is incredibly exhausting. Some companies, like Faisal Movers, no longer accept “solo” tourists on their buses because a policeman is needed on board for the checks. We went both ways by private taxi, and the price is around 8000 PKR per person. Groups can rent minivans and be escorted that way.

Where to sleep in Gilgit?

Medina Hotel 2 is an excellent, affordable, and clean hotel that also features a dorm. All rooms overlook a lovely inner courtyard. The restaurant serves delicious food at reasonable prices, the wifi isn’t bad at all, and the staff are extremely friendly and helpful. If you need to, you can also leave some belongings in their care while you explore the rest of the region, arrange tours, and rent vehicles. Highly recommended.

Fairy Meadows (Nanga Parbat Base Camp)

Fairy Meadows is undoubtedly the quintessential tourist destination in northern Pakistan. Once an alpine pasture with just a few shepherds, it has now transformed into a full-fledged tourist center nestled amidst greenery and mountains, offering accommodations for all budgets. From here, you can enjoy spectacular views of the Rakhiot Glacier and the nearby Nanga Parbat, which, at 8,126 meters, is the ninth highest mountain in the world!

Nanga Parbat seen from Fairy Meadows.

What to do and see in Fairy Meadows

As the title of this paragraph suggests, starting from Fairy Meadows, you can reach Nanga Parbat base camp in a day if you’re in decent physical shape. It’s a little over 8 km with about 700 meters of elevation gain, the trail is mapped on Organic Maps (which I strongly recommend downloading!) and if you go at a brisk pace you can reach it in 3-4 hours. Once you reach this viewpoint, take the right-hand trail – on the way there I took the left-hand one, which runs lower down, and besides having to cross a couple of streams in a way that isn’t exactly safe, the trail has lots of different tracks and isn’t at all easy to follow. The right-hand trail, on the other hand, is much more well-trodden and I think it’s the “official” one, even though the section that crosses the glacier isn’t exactly easy to follow in this case either, despite a few piles of stones here and there marking the way. In any case, absolutely nothing impossible, but watch your step!

Once you reach the base camp, don’t expect any major structures or monuments: there’s only a cross and literally four plaques. On top of that, on the day of my visit I was the only person there, but the views of Nanga Parbat are truly spectacular!

To recap, it should take you 3 to 5 hours maximum to reach the base camp from Fairy Meadows and no more than 3 to 4 hours to return. I recommend leaving early in the morning as mornings tend to be less cloudy. From personal experience, the whole thing can easily be done on your own, but after talking to another traveler, I learned that if you arrive late, there may be a police officer at the viewpoint mentioned above (where the junction is) who won’t let you go any further on your own for safety reasons (evidently I went through too early). Don’t despair, because from what I was told the officer accompanies you free of charge and basically acts as your guide.

If you don’t feel comfortable doing all this on your own, a guide for the whole day shouldn’t cost you more than 3,000 PKR, and if you think doing it all in one go in a single day is too much, you can spend the night at Behal, a shepherd settlement about halfway between Fairy Meadows and the base camp. You can sleep here too, with accommodations ranging from tents to nice wooden bungalows, and the atmosphere is more relaxed than in Fairy Meadows, where most people stay.

Alternatively, you could simply visit Behal and then reach the viewpoint in a day without going any further (lots of people do just that) and enjoy the many other viewpoints along the trail, which up to this point is absolutely easy to follow and really pleasant.

Finally, as many local tourists do, you could simply spend a few days relaxing in and around Fairy Meadows, sipping a few cups of coffee, and admiring the surrounding scenery.

Nanga Parbat seen from Behal.

How to reach Fairy Meadows?

Reaching Fairy Meadows isn’t exactly simple. The first step is to get to Rakhiot Bridge, which is about 80 km south of Gilgit along the Karakoram Highway. To do this, you basically have three options: take the minivans to Chilas that leave every hour from Gilgit station (250 rupees, about an hour and a half), take a taxi, or hitchhike, which works great. Technically, if you arrive in Gilgit by bus from Islamabad, you could even get dropped off directly at Rakhiot Bridge without going through Gilgit first; there are a couple of hotels here where you could leave your extra luggage before heading on to Fairy Meadows.

Whatever your choice, I recommend getting to Rakhiot Bridge as early as possible. The only legal way to continue (there’s a police officer who doesn’t let you continue on foot) is to board a jeep run by locals, who take full advantage of it; the price seems to go up every year. In any case, in August 2019 the price (round trip) was 8,000 PKR, split among a maximum of 5 people, who however have to agree on the date and time of return. If, for example, you want to spend two nights in Fairy Meadows and the other people trying to fill a jeep want to stay only one night, you can’t share the jeep just for the way there and you’d have to pay for the whole jeep: basically, without the 8,000 rupees, the jeep doesn’t move. The way I see it, it’s a scam, but unfortunately that’s how things work. In any case, once on board, you’re looking at almost two hours to cover just 14 km along a road that is definitely not for the faint of heart, and once you get to this point, where the road basically ends, you have a 1-2 hour walk to reach Fairy Meadows.

Update from a reader who visited Pakistan in the summer of 2023: “Now the jeep costs as much as 14,000 PKR. You can still share it with someone, but you have to agree with them on the number of nights and the time of return; they try not to let you share the jeep with Pakistani tourists, who have a very different rate… That said, the road, dangerous in itself, is subject to numerous landslides (and not only when it rains), so much so that this year it was closed for several days (it’s important to get information – even if it’s not easy – before reaching Raikot Bridge), and in any case, when I finally managed to go, there was a roadblock 3 km before the start of the trek, so you had to get out of the jeep, walk a stretch (a very exposed section) and then switch jeeps (the total cost stays the same, but you pay it split between the two jeeps).”

Update October 2024

The jeep fare to Fairy Meadows is now 16,000 PKR. The price has increased because part of the road has collapsed. Until repairs are completed, travelers need to use two jeeps and walk for 10 minutes through the broken section.

Where to sleep in Fairy Meadows?

As mentioned above, Fairy Meadows, while more expensive than the rest of the country, has options for pretty much every budget, from tents to luxurious bungalows. Prices are highly negotiable and the time of year also has quite an impact, but a tent and sleeping bag should cost about 500 PKR per night, while a basic bungalow is around 2,000 PKR. Greenland Resort is a popular option among travelers. Personally, I stayed at The Public House where, after some hard haggling, I paid 2,500 PKR for two nights in a private room with a bathroom (it seems to be closed now).

Minapin (Rakaposhi Base Camp)

Minapin is a small village located about 80 km north of Gilgit and the ideal starting point for anyone who wants to reach the Rakaposhi base camp. If you’re not in the mood for a hard hike, I recommend skipping this leg, but if you have a chance, at least stop at this viewpoint that is literally along the Karakoram Highway from where you still have fantastic views of Mt. Rakaposhi without necessarily reaching base camp.

Rakaposhi Glacier.

How to get to Rakaposhi Base Camp

As already mentioned, reaching the base camp and returning to Minapin in a day is quite a challenge but absolutely doable in 7-9 hours, depending on your pace. The hike is about 18 km with a total elevation gain of 1600 meters. It’s not exactly a walk in the park, but I assure you it’s worth it. Once you reach the top, you’ll have an incredible view of Mt. Rakaposhi and the glacier below—one of the most spectacular places I’ve ever seen.

Unfortunately, in this case too the path to follow isn’t entirely clear, but it’s marked on Organic Maps. If you want, on AllTrails you can also download the GPS coordinates of the trail. About halfway to the base camp, there’s Upper Hapakun Hotel & Camping, where you can eat and, if you wish, spend the night before continuing the next day. Try to leave early in the morning, bring a packed lunch, and enjoy the views!

N.b. If you’re interested, you can spend the night at the base camp either with your own gear, if you have it, or with locals who have a permanent post there and offer room and board. In the latter case, though, I think it’s better to arrange it from the valley. Finally, you could hire a local guide and the next day cross the glacier to reach Mt. Diran base camp. I haven’t done it, but apparently it’s a beautiful hike, absolutely not to be done without a guide!

Rakaposhi base camp.

How to reach Minapin?

Personally, I reached Minapin in a day from Fairy Meadows by hitchhiking from Raikot Bridge to Gilgit, from where I then took a minibus to Aliabad (Google Maps), asking to be dropped off at the intersection leading to Minapin. Here I started walking the 3 km to the village, but after not even 5 minutes, a local stopped and offered me a ride. I think there are also minibuses that go directly to Minapin, but they’re much less frequent than those going to Aliabad; in any case, hitchhiking is probably the most convenient and fastest option of all.

Where to sleep in Minapin?

I strongly recommend sleeping at Osho Thang Hotel. The place is really clean, has a nice inner garden, the staff is friendly and the food is simply delicious!

Karimabad

Karimabad was the main city in the Hunza Valley for centuries and is still its capital. Although Aliabad has surpassed it in size, the city retains a significant historical and cultural heritage, with lots of places of interest within a few kilometers. Almost all the inhabitants here are Ismailis, the most liberal branch of Islam; lots of women walk the streets without the burqa and might even talk to you, and finding alcohol isn’t difficult at all, so much so that more than a few young Pakistanis see Karimabad a bit like our Amsterdam.

What to do and see in Karimabad

It’s no coincidence that Karimabad was the main town of the valley, which in fact it overlooks from above, in a position that was certainly considered strategic in the past and today offers spectacular views of all the surrounding peaks: the ideal place to spend a couple of days relaxing, maybe tasting the walnut cake at Café de Hunza.

Baltit Fort as seen from the trail leading to Ultar Meadows.

Baltit Fort

Baltit Fort (Google Maps), on the other hand, is the one that dominates Karimabad from above. To reach it, you walk through the oldest cluster of houses, which at times resembles the streets of an old European village. I didn’t visit the inside of the fort but limited myself to the courtyard outside, so I won’t comment on it. From what I was told, the interior of the fort is less bare than the one in Altit, and there’s actually something to see. Admission here also costs 1,000 PKR. Open daily from 9:30 to 17:30.

Altit Fort

Altit Fort (Google Maps) is technically not in Karimabad but rather in nearby Altit, but it can easily be reached on foot as it’s only 3 km from Karimabad. The fort is a UNESCO site and has been recently restored. Built on top of a cliff, it’s really striking, but in my opinion it’s not worth the entrance fee, which for us foreigners amounts to 1,000 PKR.

Not much by European standards, but absolute madness by local ones; your call. In any case, whether you decide to visit the fort or not, I recommend taking the walk leading to its entrance, as you pass through the old part of Altit with traditional buildings on both sides; it’s really nice. Open daily from 9:30 to 17:30.

Eagle’s Nest

Since you’re in Altit, I recommend going up to the viewpoint called the Eagle’s Nest (Google Maps). From here you have an even more spectacular view of the entire valley and the iconic mountain called “Lady Finger,” and you can also see Diran and Rakaposhi in the distance. I went up for the day, but if you want, you could also spend the night here since there are numerous hotels and restaurants.

Technically you could walk to the top but, starting from Karimabad, it would take you at least a couple of hours. I had started with that idea but, as has often happened to me in Pakistan, halfway up a local on a motorcycle stopped and offered me a ride and on the way back I didn’t even make it 200 meters before the same thing happened. If that’s not your style and you don’t feel like walking either, a taxi shouldn’t cost you more than a few euros.

The Hunza Valley seen from Eagle’s Nest.

Village of Ganish

Something that in my opinion is worth the price of the ticket, however, is a visit to the village of Ganish (Google Maps): again, this can be easily reached on foot from Karimabad; the entrance for the guided tour is located about here. This is the oldest settlement along the ancient Silk Road in the Hunza Valley. Buildings and mosques dating back more than 400 years still stand here. Admission to the village costs 500 rupees and includes a guide who in my case was an extremely nice man who provided a lot of information. The man, after leading tours throughout Pakistan for years, has returned to his home village to try to help raise the profile of this site.

Ultar Base Camp (Ultar Meadows)

The trail to Mt. Ultar base camp begins not far from Baltit Fort at this point. Theoretically, this is a rather short and nice hike. However, I couldn’t do it because the gully just after the trailhead outside Karimabad has always been prone to constant landslides. During my visit, they were working to fix the situation. Therefore, if you’re interested, I strongly recommend inquiring about the current safety status.

How to reach Karimabad?

Personally, I hitchhiked from the intersection leading to Minapin without waiting more than 5 minutes. Alternatively, you can take any minivan heading to Aliabad and then check for a minivan heading to Karimabad, or opt for a taxi or walk. In theory there’s a minivan that departs early in the morning directly from Minapin bound for Aliabad as well.

Where to sleep in Karimabad?

I recommend Old Hunza Inn for its clean and affordable rooms, WiFi availability, really friendly staff, and a beautiful common room with large windows overlooking the entire valley. Backpackers Stories by Old Hunza Inn is where I actually stayed; it’s essentially the same property, which now has two different profiles on Booking, though.

Hopper

The Hopper Valley isn’t part of the classic route along the Karakorum Highway, but if you have a few days to spare, I personally think it’s absolutely worth it. In particular, I recommend the small village at the end of the road that runs up the valley, where the little town of Hopper lies a stone’s throw from the Hopper Glacier.

The small village of Hopper.

What to do and see in Hopper

Many people come all the way here just to admire the Hopper Glacier. It’s one of the longest glaciers in the world, outside the polar circles of course, and its front is just a short distance from the village, which, from the top of a cliff and its many viewpoints, completely overlooks it, offering a unique view. So you can simply come to Hopper and enjoy fantastic views of the glacier below without too much effort. If you’re interested, there are also a couple of hikes that start right here.

The most popular route of all is the one to Rush Lake at the foot of Mt. Rush, the second highest alpine lake in all of Asia at almost 4,700 meters; it’s usually a multi-day trek that also passes a viewpoint from where you can see K2. If you’re experienced and particularly fast, it can be done on your own (you can find the route uploaded on Wikiloc), but most people spend at least one night in a tent, and along the way you have to cross two glaciers, so it’s not recommended for inexperienced hikers. In the village there are lots of guides and porters willing to offer their services without you having to spend a fortune.

Honestly, I didn’t have all that much time, and on a local’s advice I just went as far as a shepherd settlement from where you get great views of Rush Peak in the distance and of the Barpu Glacier, which joins the Hopper near the village.

In the middle of the Hopper Glacier.

It’s a nice hike that can be done in a day; unfortunately the trail isn’t marked on Organic Maps (actually, I’ve seen that someone has added the track in the meantime). I got as far as this point in a little under 3 hours and I think that’s enough to get a nice view, but you could keep going if you want. That said, it’s really easy to follow since it’s often used by the local shepherds; the only problem is that you have to cross the Hopper Glacier, which turned out to be a bit more complicated than I thought. Especially getting onto and off the glacier, as the locals had warned me: I still managed to find the way, but it wasn’t straightforward at all, so, to relieve myself of any responsibility, I recommend hiring a local guide!

The point where my hike ended, Barpu Glacier.

How to reach Hopper?

If you want to reach Hopper by public transportation, you have only one option: there’s a single minibus that leaves Aliabad every day at 12:00 and comes back down the next day around 7:00. On the way there, though, I successfully hitchhiked by waiting at this point, which can easily be reached on foot from Karimabad. On the way back, I managed to “climb” onto the back of a minibus that was already full and dropped me off at the same intersection, all for 70 rupees.

Where to sleep in Hopper?

I slept at the Rush Lake Gateway Hotel, “obliged” by the fact that the gentleman who gave me a ride while I was hitchhiking was a friend of the manager, so I felt I had to. In any case, I got a private room with a bathroom for 1,500 PKR and the food served was delicious, but there may be cheaper options in the village.

Passu

Passu is another excellent stop along the Karakorum Highway: it’s a small village on the way to the Chinese border, and here you’ll find one of the country’s most iconic mountain ranges, the “Passu Cones,” which with their pointed shape seem almost impossible to climb.

The Passu Cones.

What to do and see in Passu

Attabad Lake

Before even arriving in Passu, if you wish you can make a stop at Attabad Lake. This is a lake of an extremely intense emerald blue color, formed in 2010 after a disastrous landslide that literally wiped out an entire village. Driving along the Karakorum Highway you can clearly see the giant piece of mountain that broke off and gave rise to the lake, which is now a tourist attraction where activities such as jet skiing, fishing or simply a boat ride are offered.

Passu suspension bridge

Still continuing to Passu, another attraction is the suspension bridge that crosses the Hunza River. It’s considered one of the most dangerous in the world as it’s not in very good condition at all and the planks where you rest your feet are far apart. The crossing is forbidden for safety reasons but you can take the customary photo at the beginning of the bridge. Update: apparently you can cross it now, so I guess you can take some cool pictures.

Passu Glacier

The glacier can also be seen from the road, but I strongly recommend a very short hike that starts from Borith Lake. From here it’s less than an hour’s walk to some beautiful viewpoints over the glacier below (Google Maps); at the beginning you walk along the road, while the last part is on a well-maintained and easy-to-follow trail, which is also mapped on Organic Maps. I made it as far as this viewpoint, but you could keep going if you want.

I reached the lake with a Spanish guy with his own car whom I’d met a few days earlier, but if you don’t have a vehicle you shouldn’t have any problem hitchhiking: it’s only 10 km from Passu.

Passu Glacier.

The Batura Glacier

The Batura Glacier is even closer to the village and can be easily reached on foot. There may be other trails leading to better vantage points but I personally followed this one (the only one on Organic Maps). Again, the trail is easy to follow and you can clearly see it going up the slope even from the bottom of the valley. From the top of the “hill” you can clearly see the glacier, but the views aren’t exceptional as the latter turns behind the mountain. If you want you can continue further but it was getting late and I preferred to turn back. In any case it’s worth it: even if the view of the glacier isn’t the best, the view of the valley and the Passu Cones is worth it.

Finally, at the hotel where I was staying they were also offering other longer treks and glacier hiking but I honestly have no information about that.

How to reach Passu?

Once again, I arrived by hitchhiking: a doctor from Gilgit gave me a ride from the crossroads leading to Hopper all the way to Passu, even though he was supposed to stop earlier. Alternatively, you can always catch any northbound minivan that passes by.

Where to sleep in Passu?

I slept at Passu Inn. The family that runs the hotel is really hospitable (especially the elderly man), the room was clean, the food was great, and there’s a nice courtyard to relax in and, when there’s power, they even have wifi! The initial request was 1,500 PKR per night but I managed to get it down to 1,000 PKR. Another popular option seems to be Passu Peak but from what I was told it’s more expensive.

The trail leading to the viewpoint on the Passu Glacier.

Sost

I’ll start by saying that once I reached Passu, I decided to turn back, partly due to time constraints and partly because reaching the Chinese border for the customary photo at the pass didn’t interest me much.

In any case, Sost is essentially the last village before the border with China, just 80 km further north. There isn’t much to do there except try to arrange a taxi to reach the pass the following day.

N.b. Pakistani immigration is located here. So if you want to continue on into China, remember that you must already have a visa and, from what I understand, you’re also required to be accompanied by a Chinese guide, because the military zone has really strict regulations. If you’re planning to cross the border, on this page you’ll find a detailed guide.

How to reach Sost?

Public transportation goes right up to here, so any northbound minivan should take you to your destination, or you can always hitchhike.

Where to sleep in Sost?

Pamir Serai Guesthouse seems to be a popular option among travelers.

Khunjerab Pass

Located at 4,600 meters above sea level, it’s the highest point on the Karakorum Highway and the highest border pass in the world, which is why it has become a full-blown tourist attraction, with lots of people coming every day during the summer (the pass is closed in winter) to take the customary photo. As I said before, I didn’t go, but if you have the time it could be something nice and different to do.

Also, from what I was told, the road leading to the pass is really scenic. However, you can’t reach the pass by public transportation because, even though there are buses to China, getting off at the border and then going back on a bus coming from the opposite direction or by hitchhiking isn’t allowed. So the only option is to take a taxi, which according to my research should cost about 3,000 PKR; ideally you’d manage to share it. Also remember that you have to pay the entrance fee for Khunjerab National Park, 1,300 PKR.

Khunjerab Pass.

Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.

Skardu

Skardu is the crossroads for all the expeditions headed to K2, as well as for the treks to its base camp. In fact, from here you continue to Askole, where the road ends and the actual trek begins. If you’re interested, be aware that it takes at least 12 days, with prices starting from 1,500$. You can find a great guide on this page.

What to do and see in Skardu

There’s honestly not much to do in Skardu, and I think one day is more than enough to visit the K2 Museum, which is located beside the PTDC Motel; the museum was funded by the Italian government and is definitely worth a visit!

Other sites of interest not too far from Skardu are Kharpocho Fort, Katpana Desert, and finally the so-called “Buddha Rock.” Even just visiting these last two sites without your own vehicle is fairly inconvenient, which is why I recommend spending only one day in Skardu. In case you have your own vehicle, or are willing to hire or pay for a driver, you could also visit some of the waterfalls around Skardu such as Manthokha, Khamosh, and Basho.

Finally, Hushe is a remote village located within the valley of the same name about 150 km from Skardu; a local girl described it to me as a fairy-tale village and for many people, especially motorcyclists, it’s the ultimate destination in this region of the Karakoram. Many treks such as the Gondogoro La, Concordia and Charakus also start from here. You can find a guide here.

Katpana desert.

How to reach Skardu?

I was lucky enough to make the trip aboard the Toyota Runner of my Spanish friend, whom I had met a few days earlier, so I avoided what is generally a rather uncomfortable trip if done by public transportation. In fact, the road connecting Gilgit to Skardu is particularly prone to landslides and rockfalls (especially during the monsoon season), which can cause temporary closures, and to constant maintenance work, which stretches travel times to more than 10 hours. The first minibus leaves Gilgit at 9:00, so theoretically you could do it all in one go starting from Sost, where there’s a bus that leaves at 5:00. If you want, Skardu has an airport with flights to and from Islamabad.

Where to sleep in Skardu?

I slept at Indus Motel, a spacious and clean room with a private bathroom. The initial request was 2,500 PKR per night but I managed to get it down to 1,000 PKR. Friendly staff and good food at cheap prices.

Deosai National Park

The Deosai Plateau, situated at an average altitude of 4,141 meters above sea level, is considered the second highest plateau in the world. The landscape here is completely different from what we’ve seen so far: it’s an extremely green, hilly landscape that really has nothing to do with the rocky peaks that characterize the rest of the region.

Our campsite for the night.

What to do and see in Deosai

Deosai National Park is perfect for those who enjoy camping, fishing, and nature in general. There are no particular hikes that can be done within the park and basically you just follow the dirt road through it, making a few stops here and there.

Along the way you might spot some of the native species such as Himalayan brown bear, gray wolf, and snow leopard! Two classic stops are at Bara Pani Bridge, where there’s a restaurant and I believe they also offer tents where you can spend the night, Chota Pani which offers more or less the same facilities, and finally Shausar Lake. Admission to the park costs 1,300 PKR.

How to reach Deosai?

In case it wasn’t clear, I did this part of the trip with my Spanish friend who had his own car, and we also spent the night in the park together. Unfortunately, public transportation isn’t an option: so if you want to visit, it’s probably cheaper to pay for a jeep to take you from Skardu to Astore in a day, visiting the park in between. According to my research, the cost is between 8,000 and 10,000, so finding someone to share it with would be ideal; the Backpacking Pakistan group might be the right place. The trip from Skardu to Astore takes about 7 hours.

Where to sleep in Deosai?

As already mentioned, many people visit the park in a day; at Bara Pani Bridge and at Chota Pani tents are technically offered for sleeping. We had our own camping gear and set up along the river before arriving at Bara Pani; from what we were told, you can camp just about anywhere without any problems. Even in August it was really cold at night.

Shausar Lake.

Astore and Rama Lake

Astore itself doesn’t have much to offer, but it’s a practically necessary stop for those wanting to visit the decidedly prettier Rama Lake (Google Maps): this alpine lake is located at the foot of the north face of Nanga Parbat, essentially on the opposite side from the Fairy Meadows I talked about earlier.

The emerald green lake, surrounded by snow-capped peaks, is undoubtedly a really evocative place. Unfortunately, or fortunately, it’s rather easy to reach, as the road goes all the way to Rama Meadows, from where it takes about half an hour to reach the lake: this makes it extremely popular. Hitchhiking to Rama Meadows from Astore shouldn’t be difficult at all; alternatively, you can arrange a taxi.

Finally, from Rupal, a village just over 30 km from Astore, there’s a 5-day trek that I haven’t had the pleasure of doing but looks really nice, and which basically leads to the base camp of the south face of Nanga Parbat. On this page you’ll find a brief description.

Rama Lake.

How to reach Astore?

If you’re coming from Skardu via Deosai by jeep, then consider including transportation to Rama Lake, maybe doing something like this:

Day 1, Skardu – Deosai – Astore
Day 2, Astore – Rama Lake – Astore. I was told that a jeep for three days and two nights (one spent in Deosai and the other spent at Rama Lake) including camping and fishing equipment, should cost around 20,000 PKR.

From Astore there are frequent public transport connections to Gilgit. The road is in good condition, 4-5 hours.

Where to sleep in Astore?

Personally, we camped inside the forest at Rama Meadows, which is basically where the road ends and the trail to the lake begins. There are a number of campsites around here that offer food and tents to sleep in, and a couple of places that rent rooms, including a PTDC. If you don’t camp, visiting the lake during the day and sleeping in Astore is definitely cheaper.

Other destinations in the north

The destinations described so far are the main ones in the north of the country, following more or less the classic route along the Karakoram Highway. However, in this section, I want to offer some pointers for those who have more time or simply want to venture to destinations off the main tourist routes.

Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Province

This province basically covers the northwest of the country and can be combined with the Karakoram Highway. Instead of heading to Gilgit, head to Peshawar and continue north through the Swat Valley and Chitral, then re-enter the Gilgit-Baltistan region via the Shandur Pass.

Before embarking on this itinerary, though, be aware that this region is the most conservative in the country: most of the population belongs to the Pashtun ethnic group, one of the most fundamentalist in Islam. So if you’re a woman, make absolutely sure to dress modestly, and men are recommended to wear the local “salwar kameez” attire.

N.b. Some areas of this province, especially those near the Afghan border, should be considered unstable and not exactly safe; I encourage you to do your research, as the situation changes all the time.

Curious animals in the mountains of Pakistan.

Peshawar

Peshawar is Pakistan’s oldest city and one of the oldest in all of Asia. Today it’s the capital of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province, and here, within the old city, are some of the best bazaars in the country. Another site of tourist interest is the Bala Hisar fort. There are frequent connections between Peshawar and Islamabad.

Here’s the experience of a blog reader: “I went for the day (departure from the Faisalbad station in Islamabad, by Daewoo bus, about 2 and a half hours, about 700 PKR, with the possibility of booking online): it’s a place with a peculiar atmosphere, rather ‘hard core.’ I was in the old city, but they made me understand not to go to the northern part of the city, where there’s a park… The people (only men) are very curious and generally nice; it seems they don’t see tourists often. If you don’t want to see archaeological sites, I think one day is enough, but recommended. (In Peshawar it’s a good place to change currency, and you can get a visa for Afghanistan).”

Swat Valley

From Peshawar, continue north through the Swat Valley, a truly spectacular mountainous area that offers quite a few trekking opportunities away from the main tourist routes. In the past, the area was under Taliban control—even in 2017, so not that long ago—and the valley was closed to tourists, but now it seems that things have stabilized.

The main tourist destinations in the valley are: Malam Jabba, Mingora (the main town from where several treks can be organized) and finally Kalam. On this page you’ll find excellent information on possible treks from Kalam while on this other page you’ll find a general overview of the Swat Valley.

Chitral

Chitral is a fairly large town that serves as a base for visiting the nearby Kalash valleys: Bumburet, Birir, and Rumbur. Be aware that if you want to visit the Kalash valleys you have to register at the police station and you’ll be assigned a private guard: in 2009, in fact, a group of Taliban crossed the border killing several people. If possible, it’s advisable to visit the region during the Chilam Joshi Festival, which lasts four days starting from 13 May every year.

To reach Chitral from the south: from Mingora there are direct minibuses to Timargara, from where you can take a second minibus to Chitral. The trip is quite long and can take up to 12 hours. Alternatively, you can also reach Chitral by starting from Kalam through the Kumrat Valley, for which you can find an excellent guide on this page.

Shandur Pass.

Shandur Pass

From Chitral, to reach Gilgit, you have to go over the Shandur Pass, which is at an altitude of 3,700 meters. It’s 390 km, which by public transport take two full days: you first have to reach Mastuj, spend the night there, and then continue to Gilgit the next day. Ideally, you’d find someone to share the costs with and a private jeep, which takes about 18 hours to cover the route. Al Farooq Hotel seems to be the go-to place for foreigners looking for companions to share the journey with.

A quick aside: at the top of the pass is the highest polo field in the world, and apparently the road up through the mountains offers truly spectacular views.

Yasin Valley

The Yasin Valley is about halfway between Gilgit and the Shandur Pass, so it might be a good way to break up the trip. Alternatively, you can visit it directly from Gilgit without necessarily continuing on to Chitral. Before even entering the Yasin Valley, I was recommended Khalti Lake and the village of Gupis. If you start from Gilgit, there are shared minibuses that leave every day for Gupis at 11:00 from this point.

Naltar Valley

This is another valley that had been recommended to me and is located a short distance from Gilgit. The valley is much greener than the rest of the region and is especially popular with local tourists. The main attractions are the lakes at the end of the road and a sanctuary where you can see the snow leopard.

Not exactly a snow leopard.

Other destinations in the south

I visited Pakistan during the summer, so I didn’t even consider visiting the south of the country, and therefore I didn’t gather much information about it at the time. In any case, the main stops are undoubtedly Karachi, the former capital of Pakistan as well as the most populous city in the country; here, among many other things, you’ll find the impressive Mazar-e-Quaid mausoleum, built entirely of white marble in honor of the founder of Pakistan. Here you can find a guide.

Thatta, not far from Karachi, which with its many UNESCO sites is definitely another stop to include in an itinerary in the south of the country. Here you can find a short guide. Quetta, the crossroads for anyone who wants to continue their journey overland to Iran, and finally Multan, another of the oldest cities on the Asian continent, which with its many historical sites can keep you busy for at least a couple of days. Here you can find a guide.

Mazar-e-Quaid.

Suggested itineraries in Pakistan

Below I list possible itineraries of 2, 3 and 4 or more weeks. As with any country there’s no perfect itinerary given a time frame and it’s especially true here in Pakistan where someone might come exclusively to do the trek leading to K2 base camp or visit the south of the country. So take what follows as inspiration and modify or create the itinerary according to your interests/budget!

15-day itinerary in Pakistan

This itinerary essentially covers the main attractions along the Karakoram Highway, plus a few days in Islamabad and especially Lahore. I’ll use Lahore as the starting point since flights to Islamabad and Lahore are often priced similarly, and starting from Lahore makes travel slightly more efficient if you’re short on time.

Lahore (2 nights)

Day 1:

Recover from the jet lag, briefly explore the city and climb to the top of the Wazir Khan Mosque for sunset.

Day 2:

Spend the morning at the Badshahi Mosque, the nearby fort, and check out the Sikh temple. In the afternoon you can walk around the walled city, visit the Lahore Museum, and in case you’re interested, get a local sim, ZONG is the best company. Ceremony at Wagah Border in the evening.

Islamabad (1 night)

Day 3:

Take a bus from Lahore to Islamabad, visit Faisal Mosque at sunset.

N.b. In my opinion Islamabad is absolutely not a must-see, so if you prefer to spend your time elsewhere, you could take the bus in the morning from Lahore, leave most of your luggage in storage at the bus station (I recommend Faisal Movers), visit the mosque and then return to the station to catch the bus to Gilgit.

Gilgit (2 nights)

Day 4:

If you opt for the overnight bus to Gilgit then you have basically the whole day that you could use to visit the Margalla Hills.

Day 5:

Arrive in the morning in Gilgit, take a walk along the bazaar and maybe visit the Khargah Buddha.

N.b. Again, as described in the “what to do and see” section you could save a day by stopping directly at Raikot Bridge and skip to day six. Gilgit, somewhat like Islamabad, is also by no means a must-see in my opinion.

Fairy Meadows (2 nights)

Day 6:

Reach Raikot bridge early in the morning and organize the jeep to reach the beginning of the trail leading to Fairy Meadows. During the rest of the day enjoy the views of Nanga Parbat.

Day 7:

Reach Nanga Parbat base camp in the day or alternatively hike up to Behal.

Minapin (2 nights)

Day 8:

Leave Fairy Meadows in the morning and reach Minapin in a day.

Day 9:

Hike to Rakaposhi base camp.

Karimabad (2 nights)

Day 10:

Reach Karimabad. Visit the old part and climb up to Altit Fort.

Day 11:

Visit the Eagle Nest, Baltit and Ganish.

Day 12:

The Faisal Movers bus covering the Gilgit-Islamabad route starts right from Karimabad; departure should be around 8 in the morning.

Day 13:

Bus arrives in Islamabad early in the morning. Return flight from Islamabad or another 5 hours by bus to Lahore and return flight from here.

3-week itinerary in Pakistan

With three weeks in Pakistan I recommend following the itinerary just described and adding the following stops.

Hopper (2 nights)

Day 12:

Reach Hopper from Karimabad.

Day 13:

Spend the day in Hopper.

Passu (2 nights)

Day 14:

Reach Passu from Hopper and visit the Batura Glacier in the afternoon.

Day 15:

Short trek from Borith Lake to Passu Glacier, Passu suspension bridge.

Sost (2 nights)

Day 16:

Reach Sost from Passu and arrange a taxi to Khunjerab Pass for the next day.

Day 17:

Trip to Khunjerab Pass.

Gilgit (1 night)

Day 18:

Reach Gilgit from Sost and spend the rest of the day in Gilgit.

Day 19:

Gilgit – Islamabad bus.

Day 20:

Bus arrives in Islamabad early in the morning. Return flight from Islamabad or another 5-hour bus ride to Lahore and return flight from here.

4-week itinerary in Pakistan

With four weeks to spare I recommend following the three-week itinerary just described and adding the Skardu – Deosai – Astore circuit.

Itinerary of 5 weeks or more in Pakistan

With 5 or more weeks in my opinion, the best thing to do is to add Peshawar, Swat valley and Chitral first and then simply follow the 4-week itinerary just described.

Deosai Plateau.

How to get around Pakistan

Buses in Pakistan

Buses are undoubtedly the most common, practical, and inexpensive way to travel between destinations in the country, especially between large cities. In the north, once you reach Gilgit on one side and Peshawar on the other, the large regular buses almost always give way to a minivan system that connects the more rural parts of the country.

The best company overall is Faisal Movers: slightly more expensive than the competition but I think it’s worth it, the buses are new and each seat has its own airplane-style media station, particularly recommended especially for the long Islamabad-Gilgit route. Other good private companies that connect major cities and are slightly cheaper: Daewoo Sammi and Skyways.

In the north of the country, including the Islamabad – Gilgit route, the cheapest option is the state-owned Natco company; however, the buses are often not in good condition and saving a few hundred rupees isn’t worth it, so avoid them whenever possible. Natco, however, unlike the other companies, also reaches destinations such as Astore, Skardu and Chilas for which there are no alternatives.

Basically, if you stick to the itineraries described, once you reach Gilgit to continue north along the Karakorum Highway by public transportation you have to rely on these often full to the brim minivans that shuttle between the main villages: as in pretty much every developing country, very few people have cars, and local transportation also reaches really remote areas, for information just ask the locals.

Pakistan’s typical psychedelic trucks.

Taxis in Pakistan

In the city, taxis are really cheap and if you have access to the internet, in Islamabad and Lahore Uber is even cheaper than regular taxis. Another really cheap option is the infamous tuk tuks, which are banned from the streets of Islamabad but roam freely around the streets of Lahore and are undoubtedly the cheapest option.

Somewhat like in all developing countries, don’t expect taximeters and always try to agree on the price before boarding. Taxis, especially shared taxis, are particularly popular even in the north of the country where they sometimes replace or run parallel to minivans to reach more rural areas.

Domestic flights in Pakistan

Domestic flights aren’t exactly cheap, but if your budget allows, reaching destinations such as Chitral, Gilgit, and Skardu by plane can literally save you whole days spent on the bus. The three airports just mentioned are served exclusively by Pakistan Airlines. Be careful, however, because although there are almost always two flights a day to these destinations, they’re often canceled due to weather conditions.

For other destinations within the country you can also take a look at Airblue.

Trains in Pakistan

In the south of the country they’re an excellent alternative to buses and objectively more comfortable especially for long distances; the main website is this one.

Hitchhiking in Pakistan

Pakistan can be considered for all intents and purposes a hitchhiker’s paradise. More than once I’ve had someone offer me a ride without even asking while I was walking along the road. This is especially true in the north of the country where so many travelers rely exclusively on hitchhiking; particularly along the Karakoram Highway it works like a charm!

I myself have hitchhiked on several occasions and have never waited more than 10 minutes. The locals are extremely happy to give you a ride and more than a few times have even insisted on taking me to my destination even though they were supposed to stop earlier. Absolutely a must try and I assure you that after hitchhiking a couple of times along the Karakoram Highway you’ll get over the urge to take the packed and much slower minivans.

Finally, if you’re interested in renting a jeep to explore the north, I was told by a group of locals from Lahore whom I met in Astore that they had managed to rent one for only 4,000 rupees a day.

Motorcycles in Pakistan

This is another really popular option among travelers, who often rent, or even buy, a motorcycle during their stay in Pakistan. Prices for a motorcycle in good condition seem to hover around 400€, whereas if you decide, for example, to rent your motorcycle in Gilgit and ride the Karakorum Highway to the Chinese border, as many do, expect to pay around 3,000 rupees per day.

Backpacking Pakistan: costs

At this point you’re probably wondering how much a trip to Pakistan costs. The answer is that it’s a really cheap country, one of the cheapest I’ve ever visited! If you travel low cost, you can easily sleep in private rooms and eat out three times a day on a daily budget of 20 euros, and most importantly, remember that virtually any price is negotiable.

Cost of transport in Pakistan

Just to give you a few figures, the bus from Islamabad to Gilgit, more than 500 km and 15 hours of travel costs about 10-15 € depending on the company and service chosen. Minibuses along the Karakoram Highway are proportionally even cheaper, 100 km from Aliabad to Gilgit for about 2€, 20 km from Hopper to the Karakoram Highway on the back of a minibus about 50 cents.

Taxis and tuk tuks are also really cheap: 5km during the day should cost no more than 300 rupees.

Cost of food in Pakistan

Food is also extremely cheap. You can easily fill your belly for under 50 cents. Just to give you some numbers: a Roti, the flatbread that is served with practically every meal, normally costs 5-10 cents, a portion of Dal, a bean/lentil soup normally costs 40-50 cents, two nice pieces of grilled chicken, about 1.5€.

Cost of accommodation in Pakistan

Unfortunately, hostels aren’t very common and are mainly located in the big cities, but sleeping still remains really cheap. During my month in Pakistan I never paid more than 1,500 PKR for a private room, and I often got by with as little as 1,000 PKR (due to the last few years of inflation, it probably costs 50% more now). These were almost always fairly modest rooms, but almost always with a private bathroom and all in all not bad at all.

If you camp or perhaps travel and sleep in your car, you can park and use the facilities, wifi and common areas for free in almost all PTDCs in the country. PTDCs are basically a chain of hotels belonging to the Department of Tourism Development.

Couchsurfing in big cities seems to be really popular and you should have no trouble finding a place to sleep. On the other hand, if you’re looking for something more luxurious, the Serena Hotels chain has a few accommodations in the north of the country as well.

PTDC in Skardu with K2 museum in the background.

Other costs (ATM withdrawals and SIM cards)

Finally, it’s worth saying a few words about cash withdrawal fees in the country. Cash is absolutely necessary, especially as soon as you leave the big cities, and lots of banks don’t accept international cards. My advice is to bring a good amount of cash: the exchange rate in Lahore was really good, and at this spot there are numerous exchange offices that work at almost the same level as the interbank rate.

If you do end up withdrawing, after trying at least 15 different banks, the only ones that seem to work are MCB, with a fee of 800 PKR per withdrawal, Allied Bank, 800 PKR per withdrawal, and Standard Chartered, the best option, 500 PKR. All three banks only let you withdraw 20,000 PKR per transaction. Take a look at the best cards for traveling.

As for SIM cards, ZONG is the company with the best coverage. If you have a phone that supports eSIMs and want the convenience of being online right away without having to buy a local SIM, then I recommend using a service like the one offered by Airalo and Ubigi. If you go for this solution, though, there are at least a couple of things to consider. First of all, with rare exceptions, data costs a lot more than it would with a local SIM; secondly, their local partner isn’t always the one with the best coverage in the country. Basically, I think most travelers would be better off buying a local SIM (or maybe trying to buy the eSIM of a local provider), but I encourage you to think it over for yourself, as there’s no shortage of exceptions. For example, when I visited Japan, the plan offered by Ubigi was cheaper than any local SIM I could buy without proving I was a resident.

Backpacking Pakistan: food

Most meals simply consist of a curry served with rice or chapati; the latter is basically unleavened bread cooked in clay ovens, while Parantha, made with the same dough, is usually fried and therefore much oilier.

You’ll soon notice that when the curry is served with chapati, the chapati completely replaces cutlery and the meal is eaten using only your hands.

Sometimes, instead of a curry, you’re served a soup, along with the inevitable chapati of course. The most popular soup of all is Dal, which can be yellow (yellow and red lentils) or brown; either way, it’s basically a lentil soup. Ki sabzi, on the other hand, is a vegetable soup that usually has a main ingredient, for example Aloo ki sabzi: aloo means potatoes, so in this case it’s a vegetable soup where the main ingredient is potatoes. There are lots of combinations, and sometimes they include meat too.

Two other extremely popular dishes are grilled chicken, which you’ll find practically everywhere in the big cities, where there are real rotisseries serving almost exclusively chicken, and biryani, rice served with pieces of chicken and vegetables.

Finally, be careful what you drink, avoid tap water and, if you want to do both the environment and your wallet a favor, use a filter water bottle!

Street food in Pakistan.

Backpacking Pakistan: safety

Is Pakistan as dangerous as it seems? Is it possible to travel safely in Pakistan?

Some say the country is extremely safe, and I often heard locals repeating with strong conviction “Pakistan is safe,” but I believe the truth lies somewhere in the middle: it’s true that most of the country can be considered safe, but it’s also true that some regions, especially those near the Afghan border, can’t be considered so, or at least the instability of these areas is plain for everyone to see.

That said, Gilgit-Baltistan, the state that certainly receives the most tourists, besides being the most liberal of all when it comes to Islamism, has been the site of only one terrorist attack in recent years. For example, if we look at this page, we notice that in the city of Quetta alone, there have been about 15 terrorist attacks in the past 10 years. Long story short, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa and Balochistan are two states that, if you’re not willing to accept some risk, it’s probably best to avoid; in the rest of the country, with a little common sense, you shouldn’t have any kind of problem and indeed you’ll enjoy the enormous hospitality offered by these people.

There are also two topics where it’s advisable to be careful about how you talk: India, and in particular the Kashmir region, and Islam. Both are sensitive topics for many Pakistanis, so my advice is to avoid conversations about them or at least to express your opinion with extreme respect.

Although I met more than a few solo female travelers, the travel experience for a woman who isn’t used to such a strongly male-dominated society could be strange, to say the least. I encourage you to read this great article on the subject.

OK, I really hope I haven’t scared you with this last section on safety: Pakistan is absolutely a country worth visiting, and I hope its recent history and the fact that some regions are still considered unstable won’t stop you from visiting it!

Finally, especially if you plan to trek above 3500 meters, the only two insurance companies that cover this activity (as far as I know) are World Nomads, which lets you insure treks up to 6000 meters (by adding it as an extra activity, as shown on this page), and TrueTraveller, which, by adding the “Extreme Pack,” offers coverage for treks above 4600m. As I said before, most other insurance policies stop at 3500 meters, some even lower.

Are you planning a trip to Pakistan? Check out these posts:

Which travel backpack to choose

What to bring on your trip

Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!

Since I no longer run ads, if you found this article helpful, please consider purchasing your travel insurance through one of the links on this site. Doing so supports my work at no additional cost to you. For EU and UK residents, I recommend True Traveller. For everyone else, I recommend HeyMondo, which offers a 5% discount. Thank you for your support!

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