A guide for Trekking to Everest Base Camp

Trekking to Everest Base Camp in Nepal is undoubtedly a dream for anyone who loves mountains and trekking. For some, it is a true Mecca.

There are several options to complete this beautiful experience, from the classic flight to Lukla to less traveled starting points where flying is not necessary, such as Salleri/Phaplu and Jiri. In this guide, you will find all the relevant information, including variations such as the Three Passes trek and Island Peak.

I personally completed the trek without a guide or porters, accompanied by my not-so-young dad. In this blog, you will find all the information and advice you need to best organize your DIY trip to Nepal and complete the trek to Everest Base Camp.

Sunrise at Chukhung Ri.

In this guide, prices are expressed in the local currency called “Nepalese Rupee” often abbreviated simply as “NRP.” The exchange rate at the time of publication of this article is 1€ = 145 NRP. For the current exchange rate, I suggest you look at this page.

How to get to Everest Base Camp (the various routes and possible variations)

Before we begin, here is a map that will hopefully shed some light on what the options are for reaching Everest Base Camp and the possible variations described in this guide.

Basically, here are the four main alternatives:

Annapurna circuit or Everest base camp?

If you’re reading this article, you’ve probably already made up your mind. However, in case you’re still debating what to do, I want to share a few words about what, for many, is a tough choice when you have perhaps only two weeks to trek in Nepal: Annapurna Circuit or Everest Base Camp?

First, they are both beautiful treks. If I have to express my preference, I would opt for the Circuit as the scenery is much more varied. You start from an almost tropical climate all the way up to the 5416 meters of the Thorong La pass. Plus, being a circuit, each day is different, and you don’t have to follow the same trail up and down.

Two other things that make me lean toward the Circuit are that it is much less busy/popular than the Everest Base Camp trek. To use Dad’s expression after finding a real traffic jam near a suspension bridge, “It’s like being on the trail to the three peaks of Lavaredo!” (the most iconic trek in the Dolomites) And our experience was in the spring; I dare not imagine what the situation is like in the fall.

Another reason I would recommend the Circuit is the cost. Food and lodging are, on average, 30 percent cheaper than Everest Base Camp. Especially if you decide to complete the latter with a flight to Lukla (a practically forced choice if you only have two weeks to spare), then the Circuit will cost you practically half as much as Everest Base Camp.

Taking all this into consideration, Everest Base Camp still has its appeal, and the final choice is obviously up to you. What has been said so far is merely my humble opinion.

In case you are interested, you can check out my guidebook on the Annapurna Circuit, Annapurna Base Camp and Poon Hill.

Phaplu to Nunthala section.

Permits and visas needed to trek and enter Nepal

Let’s start with the visa to enter the country. The visa is mandatory, but fortunately, most passport holders (with an expiration date of less than 6 months) receive a visa called Visa On Arrival (VOA) the moment they enter the country. The process is extremely simple and straightforward, but unfortunately, it is not free.

There are three options:

15 days – 25 USD.

30 days – 40 USD.

90 days – 100 USD.

The visa can easily be extended to a maximum of 150 days per calendar year (January 1-December 31), although it is not exactly cheap. You can find the costs here; it is probably best to leave and re-enter the country with a new visa. In any case, with a tourist visa, you cannot stay in the country for more than 150 days per calendar year.

Two passport photos (passport-size) are also officially required to complete the visa process once you arrive at the airport/land border. However, if you complete the form online (it stays in the system for 15 days so don’t do it too far in advance) they are not required and you will most likely save quite a bit of time upon arrival, especially at the Kathmandu airport where you can head straight to immigration without standing there filling out the form.

The visa at Tribhuvan airport can theoretically be paid by credit card, but in practice, from what I have read, it varies day by day. I tried it and was told it was impossible. All major currencies (including euros) are accepted. To avoid unfavorable exchange rates, ideally, you should pay in U.S. dollars, but I wouldn’t dwell on it too much unless you already have them.

As for land borders (find the full list here) apparently only U.S. dollars are accepted, so adjust accordingly.

Nepal does not require any mandatory vaccinations but Hepatitis A and B are recommended.

Bupsa to Surke.

Permits for trekking to Everest Base Camp.

N.b. TIMS (Trekker’s Information Management System) which is required to complete many treks in Nepal is no longer required for the Everest region as of 2018, be wary of those who say otherwise.

Two / three permits are required to reach Everest Base Camp depending on the starting point chosen:

Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit

This new permit, introduced in October 2018, essentially replaces the TIMS. The fee goes to the local Khumbu government. The permit can be obtained in Lukla or Monjo if you decide to start your trek in Jiri or Salleri. It is not possible to obtain the permit in Kathmandu.

The cost is 2,000 rupees, about 15€.

Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit

As you may have guessed this is the permit to enter Sagarmatha National Park. It can be obtained at the Kathmandu Tourism Board which is about 2 km from the main tourist area of Thamel (you can easily walk). The office is open from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm.

Alternatively, as many do, you can get it directly in Monjo where the entrance to the national park is located.

The cost is 3000 rupees, about 25€.

Gaurishankar Conservation Area

This permit should be obtained only and exclusively if you decide to complete the trek to base camp starting from Jiri. The permit must be obtained at the Kathmandu Tourism Board.

The cost is 3000 rupees, about 25€.

N.B. Unfortunately, as of April 1, 2023, it is no longer possible to complete many treks in Nepal without being accompanied by a guide. I believe this is a disgrace, another decision driven by greed disguised as “safety issues.” I hope the Nepalese government reconsiders this decision in the future, but for now, this is the reality. Fortunately, as I understand it, the issue arises when obtaining the TIMS (Trekker’s Information Management System), which is not necessary to complete the trek to Everest Base Camp. It seems the Everest region has been exempted for now, as detailed here: ExplorersWeb.

Sunrise from Kala Patthar.

When to go? Weather, temperatures and best time

Spring (March, April, and May)

This period precedes the monsoons that characterize the summer months (June, July, and August). Early in the season, there may be occasional snowfall, but the weather is generally stable and dry, ideal for high-altitude trekking.

March, although colder, is preferable to April and May for those wanting to avoid crowds. April and May, with milder temperatures, bring a busier and more fascinating base camp. Late May, just before the monsoons, is the most favorable time to attempt the summit ascent. Outside of April and May, the base camp is essentially an expanse of ice.

Summer (June, July, and August)

Rain, rain, and more rain. The monsoon season is definitely not advisable for trekking. I met a group of French travelers who recounted a friend completing the route in June by starting each day at 5 a.m. to avoid the rain. Apparently, it worked.

However, it is certainly not ideal, as the views would almost certainly be obscured. July and August are even rainier, so it is really not worth venturing out. If you want to trek during this time, the Annapurna circuit is a better alternative.

Fall (September, October, and November)

This is considered the best season in terms of weather. The rain of the summer months clears the haze, offering the best views of the year. Beware of September, which may still be relatively rainy depending on the year.

In general, it is slightly colder than spring but still the best time to trek and also the most crowded. At high altitudes, lodges can be extremely crowded, especially during October, which sees the peak of tourists in the region.

Winter (December, January, and February)

It is definitely possible to trek, but at high altitudes, it can get extremely cold with temperatures dropping to as low as -30 degrees overnight. Days are short, and there may be significant snowfall, resulting in some passes being closed (generally not the traditional trail to base camp).

If the cold and snow don’t deter you, this might be a good time to trek the region and avoid the crowds. Just make sure you have the right equipment!

Cheplung.

Difficulty and preparation for Everest Base Camp Trek

The trek is certainly not a walk in the woods. The altitude, especially near the base camp, definitely takes its toll, but anyone in decent shape can complete the trek.

To give an objective fact: I completed the trek with my dad, who, although definitely more fit than most of his peers, was 63 years old at the time and did not have the recovery time of much younger people. Not to mention, we started from Phaplu, adding six days of not exactly easy trekking compared to starting from Lukla, and we had no porters.

So if you decide to start from Lukla and perhaps hire a porter, the trek becomes accessible to many. That said, I recommend taking the preparation seriously. In the months leading up to the trek, try to walk at least a couple of times a week for at least 4-5 hours at a time to simulate a typical day on the trail. Ideally, you should also load your backpack properly, perhaps with the same weight you will carry during the trek. More information and tips on managing altitude can be found later in the guide.

The Three Passes Trek, on the other hand, is definitely harder than the Everest Base Camp Trek. However, if you are in good shape, it should not be a problem at all.

Thame.

The trekking routes to Everest Base Camp

As seen above, there are basically three routes to Everest Base Camp. I will start by describing the classic route from Lukla in detail. For the other two itineraries starting from Jiri and Salleri, I will describe only the section up to Lukla in detail, as once you reach Lukla, the route is the same.

Finally, there is the Three Passes Trek, which technically does not include a visit to Everest Base Camp, but many trekkers include this short detour once they arrive in Lobuche.

The following itinerary is designed so that you walk only in the morning to early afternoon (with some rare exceptions) for a total of 5-6 hours per day and have lunch only once you arrive at your destination. Generally, departure is around 7:00/7:30 and arrival around 13:00/14:00 at the latest. We are probably slightly faster than the average person, so if after the first few days the schedule doesn’t add up, adjust accordingly.

There are at least three good reasons to adopt this strategy:

Better Weather: Throughout the year, the weather is generally better in the morning, providing better views and lower chances of rain.
Avoiding Breaks: Walking without taking long breaks helps maintain your rhythm and avoids walking with a full belly, which can divert blood to the digestive system—especially at high altitude, this is a bad idea. Once you arrive at your destination, you will have plenty of time to relax and recover.
Saving Money: Arriving at your destination and then having lunch can often save you money on the room. Ninety-nine percent of lodges, especially at low altitudes, are willing to offer the room for free as long as you consume three meals. However, if you stop to eat on the way, the meals become two, and the lodge may be more reluctant to offer the room for free.

Another thing to remember is that you can actually stop almost anywhere along the way. Especially at low altitudes, the villages are close to each other, and the recommended stops can be adjusted to the next village. Additionally, the lodges/tea houses between villages are plentiful, giving you endless possibilities to stop if you are tired or want to keep walking after reaching your designated destination.

Finally, I recommend downloading maps.me/organic maps, the app works offline after you download the maps and I think it is a great tool for completing the trek.

Trekking itinerary to Everest Base Camp starting from Lukla in 12 days

This is the shortest version of the trek. The only faster way to reach base camp is by helicopter. Despite being the shortest version of the three itineraries, it is also the most expensive. The round-trip flight from Kathmandu to Lukla costs over $300 for a 30-minute flight, and tickets can be purchased on the Yeti Airlines website.

Considering that the cost of the entire trek—starting from Salleri and making some variations from the shorter version for a total of 20 days—was about €370 each, if you have the time and the will, with just the money you would spend on the flight to Lukla, you could easily finance the entire trek.

I understand that for some people, time is a significant factor and money takes a back seat. So, here is the itinerary starting from Lukla.

Pangboche.

Day 1. Flight Kathmandu – Lukla (about 30 minutes) / Hiking Lukla – Phakding (4 hours, 8 km)

Lukla (2860m) – Phakding (2610m)

I strongly recommend taking the flight early in the morning so that you have the whole day ahead of you, especially considering potential delays, which are apparently frequent. The flight has been described to me as extremely scenic, so take the opportunity to enjoy the views.

Upon arriving in Lukla, you’ll find a very manageable stretch to Phakding ahead of you, mostly flat or even slightly downhill.

Day 2. Phakding – Namche Bazar (6 – 7 hours , 10 km)

Phakding (2860m) – Monjo (2835m) – Namche Bazar (3440m)

Again, I recommend leaving early to avoid the queue at the entrance to the national park in Monjo. When we arrived around mid-morning, we waited in line for 40-minute to buy tickets.

The section from Phakding to Monjo is very manageable and similar to the previous day’s trek. However, upon reaching Monjo and entering the national park, a prolonged ascent begins that continues almost relentlessly until Namche Bazaar.

It’s only a 5 km ascent, but the recommended hiking time is 6 hours, which may be exaggerated. We were already acclimatized from the Annapurna Circuit, and we made it up in less than 3 hours. Nonetheless, it’s still a challenging stretch, and the altitude at this point begins to affect many trekkers.

N.B. If you did not purchase your Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit in Lukla, you must do so in Monjo. The small office is located before the entrance to the national park. However, most trekkers already had the permit, likely obtained in Lukla, so we didn’t have to wait in line here.

Namche Bazar.

Day 3. Namche Bazar (Rest day / acclimatization)

We skipped this day because, as just mentioned, we were already acclimatized from the Annapurna circuit. If this is not your case, it is definitely advisable to spend the day in Namche Bazar to give your body a chance to adjust to the altitude.

It is also advisable to keep active anyway, perhaps by climbing up to one of the many viewpoints surrounding the town. If you are missing a few pieces of equipment or maybe want to treat yourself by eating something other than the typical local food, this is the ideal place to do so, more than a village it is in fact a real town with restaurants, bars, wifi, stores, atm etc etc.

Accommodations are also plentiful here including very good quality hotels such as Hotel khangri but if like us you are traveling on a budget I recommend this lodge, we only paid for meals, the family who by the way is really nice is willing to give room for free, wifi and shower (cold but if you want you can pay and get it hot) for free, I assure you that in Namche this is a real bargain.

Day 4. Namche Bazar – Tengboche (4 – 6 hours, 8km)

Namche Bazar (3440m) – Tengboche (3870m)

Leaving Namche, the first few kilometers are quite pleasant and easy, mostly flat. After about two hours, you reach a checkpoint at the bottom of the valley. From here, a steady climb begins towards Tengboche, gaining 600 meters in elevation. The altitude makes this climb challenging, but once you reach the top, the day’s trekking ends.

In Tengboche, there is a Buddhist monastery that visitors can explore, which is fascinating to discover. A little curiosity: the renowned Tenzing Norgay was originally from Tengboche itself. For those unfamiliar, Tenzing Norgay was the Sherpa who, along with Edmund Hillary, first reached the summit of Everest in 1953.

Tengboche.

Day 5. Tengboche – Dingboche (4 – 6 hours, 10km)

Tengboche (3870m) – Pangboche (3930m) – Dingboche (4360m)

The day begins with a downhill stretch, but then the trail steadily ascends. During this section, the trees start to thin out, and the vegetation reduces to shrubs, exposing you to the sun for most of the way. The views become increasingly captivating.

N.B. During the high season, roughly April, May, September, and October, once you reach this point, I strongly recommend booking your lodging at least a day in advance. There are few lodges from here onwards. Without booking, the risk of not finding a room and having to spend the night in the dining hall at Lobuche and Gorak Shep is quite high. To make reservations, simply ask the lodge where you are staying to make a call—they are familiar with each other and know how to arrange accommodations.

Day 6. Dingboche (Rest day / acclimatization)

Again, we skipped this day altogether because we were already acclimatized from the Annapurna Circuit. However, if you are not acclimatized, it is advisable to spend the day in Dingboche to allow your body to adjust to the altitude. If you feel exceptionally well, you could consider moving on to day 7, but this decision is entirely subjective: listen to your body.

Possible variant towards Chukhung

If you have two extra days available, there’s a really interesting variation I recommend. If you don’t have altitude issues, on this day (or even the previous day), you could hike up to Chukhung following the Three Passes Trekking route. The next morning, you can climb up Chukhung Ri and return to Dingboche or Pheriche along the same trail. It’s not necessary to reach the summit of Chukhung Ri (which is over 5500m). The first viewpoint at 5375m offers a spectacular panorama and was undoubtedly one of the highlights of the entire trek.

We were already acclimatized and made the ascent in a little over an hour and a half, starting around 4:30 AM from the lodge in Chukhung. It would probably take at least two hours otherwise. Doing this hike at sunrise is particularly enjoyable, but it can also be done during the day.

The lodges in Chukhung all charge around 500 rupees for a double room, so you might as well choose the best option. Khangri Resort is considered one of the top choices. If you want to extend the detour even further, from Chukhung you can also decide to visit the Island Peak base camp.

Chukhung Ri.

Day 7. Dingboche – Lobuche (4 – 6 hours, 7km)

Dingboche (4360m) – Lobuche (4940m)

The day begins with a pleasant false flat slope slightly uphill through a beautiful valley until you cross a small stream. Just above is a small lodge serving as a refreshment point. From there, a nice climb of about 300 meters leads to a beautiful viewpoint with a memorial overlooking the entire valley.

After this ascent, the trail flattens out and is similar to the gentle slope earlier, leading to the small village of Lobuche. We stayed at Mother Heart Lodge, where our room had been booked two days earlier by the lodge in Chukhung. However, I believe there are better options available. The New EBC Guesthouse seems to be the best choice, but it’s advisable to book well in advance as agencies often sell out days ahead. Lodges here also charge around 700 rupees for a double room.

N.B. There’s an interesting alternative for those with a flexible budget. About 1.5 km from the village of Lobuche towards Gorak Shep, there’s an Italian research center known as “La Piramide” where you can spend the night. I’ve heard from people who stayed there that the facility is quite nice. It costs about $50, which includes all meals and a hot shower. If you’re seeking comfort at high altitude, this could be a good option for you.

Lobuche.

Day 8. Lobuche – Gorak Shep – Everest Base Camp – Gorak Shep (5 – 8 hours, 15 km)

Lobuche (4940m) – Gorak Shep (5160m) – Everest Base Camp (5364m)

This is the day you finally arrive at Everest Base Camp. The first section is in line with the end of the previous day and continues on the valley floor, but after a couple of kilometers a really annoying up and down begins, which, combined with the really uneven rocky terrain and the funnel effect that is created here, can take quite a while.

We left early and took just under two hours to get to Gorak Shep but again, we were already acclimatized so I think 3-4 hours is more reasonable. Upon arriving at Gorak Shep, leave your backpack at the lodge (or at least empty it of what you don’t need) and proceed to Everest Base Camp, the earlier you leave the better so as to avoid possible afternoon clouds.

From Gorak Shep to base camp is about 1-2 hours. There are no major climbs but the route is along the lines of the section before arriving at Gorak Shep (uneven terrain and funnel effect). Once you arrive at the base camp, enjoy it, take the usual photos and then return to Gorak Shep to rest in preparation for the next day as the ascent to Kala Patthar awaits you.

Here we spent the night at Yeti Resort, the worst lodge on the entire trek. But the room had been booked for us two days before so we had no choice. I think there are better options. 700 rupees for a double room.

N.b. If you are not interested or simply do not feel fit, it is not absolutely necessary to spend the night in Gorak Shep. Doing so is only useful if you want to climb the following morning to the summit of Kala Patthar (5545 m), but if you wanted to, you could simply leave your pack in Lobuche, go up to base camp and then return to spend the night in Lobuche before starting to descend the following day.

Everest Base Camp.

Day 9. Gorak Shep – Kala Pattar – Gorak Shep – Pherice (5 – 8 hours, 15 km)

Gorak Shep (5160m) – Kala Pattar (5545m) – Gorak Shep (5160m) – Lobuche (4940m) – Pheriche (4280m)

Climbing to the top of Kala Pattar is not exactly an easy walk and definitely not necessary, but if you feel like it and feel good I recommend doing it. I started in the dark to get to the summit at dawn and it took me about an hour and a half (I was already acclimatized) but it could take you as long as 2-3 hours. In any case you might decide to climb only up to halfway, from there on the view doesn’t get much better and it would be more a matter of being able to say, “I made it to the top!”

If you decide to go up early in the morning as I did I recommend dressing properly. As you go up you warm up quickly but during the interval of time spent on the summit waiting for the sun to rise I literally froze.

Once back at Gorak Shep, you descend along the same trail taken the previous day to the base of the climb leading to the memorial. From there, you continue towards Lobuche but instead of heading towards Dingboche, you descend towards Pheriche.

Here, I recommend staying at the White Yak. The owner is willing to give you the room for free as long as you consume three meals. The food is excellent, with generous portions, and there’s a pleasant outdoor area to relax in. Thanks to the greenhouse effect, it maintains a comfortable temperature during the day.

Pheriche.

Day 10. Pherice – Namche Bazar (6 – 8 hours, 15 km)

Pheriche (4280m) – Pangboche (3930m) – Tengboche (3870m) – Namche Bazar (3440m)

This is a fairly long day but going down in altitude should help you regain your strength. In addition, the trail, which is the same one made on the way out, is mostly downhill and that should help in no small part.

At a decidedly brisk pace we took 6 hours but probably 7-8 hours is more likely.

Day 11. Namche Bazar – Lukla (6 – 8 hours, 18 km)

Namche Bazar (3440m) – Monjo (2835m) – Phakding (2860m) – Lukla (2860m)

This is also a fairly long day retracing the same trail made on the outward journey and largely downhill. Your knees may be begging for help at this point but this is the last effort, hang in there!

Day 12. Lukla – Kathmandu flight (about 30 minutes)

Return to Kathmandu. If you have the time and inclination, here you could opt to return to Kathmandu via one of the other two starting points described below saving some money but more importantly going through a part of the trek that is decidedly less commercial and busy than the section from Lukla.

In principle it would be 2 – 3 extra days if you decide to return from Phaplu/Salleri and 6 – 8 days from Jiri.

View from Kala Patthar, Everest on the left.

Trekking itinerary to Everest Base Camp starting from Salleri / Phaplu in 18 days

This is the itinerary I personally followed and is ideal for those who want to reach Everest Base Camp without flying and spending as little as possible, provided you have a couple of extra days available. It’s also a great way to trek through less-traveled areas of the region and visit villages less affected by mass tourism, as most people reach Everest Base Camp by starting with a flight to Lukla.

Compared to the Lukla itinerary, this route requires an additional six days. It might be possible to condense it to four days each way if you’re willing to walk 8-10 hours a day, though I personally don’t recommend pushing it that much. Another way to shorten the trek by one day each way is to take a jeep from Salleri to Kharikhola, as described below.

Surke.

Day 1 Bus/Jeep Kathmandu – Salleri (9 – 16 hours, 260km)

For the trip from Kathmandu, you have two options: the quickest is to take a jeep departing at 5:30 a.m., which takes 9 to 10 hours with breaks for meals and restroom stops. This option is the most uncomfortable, as the jeep typically carries up to ten people—two in the front, four in the back, and four more in what’s supposed to be the trunk.

If you’re fortunate to sit in the front with the driver, the journey isn’t as bad. However, our experience in the back row for the outward journey and middle row for the return (slightly better) was one of the most uncomfortable trips I’ve ever taken, and I’ve traveled extensively. My advice, if comfort matters and budget allows, is to purchase two seats or the entire row if you’re traveling with two or three people.

The cost of the jeep is typically between 1400 to 1500 rupees. This price is negotiable, especially on the return trip, but harder to bargain for on the outbound journey unless you go to Chabil personally (where both jeeps and buses to Salleri depart), which is almost a 5 km walk from Thamel costing around 300 to 400 rupees for a taxi ride one way. An alternative is taking a local bus from Ratna Park. We opted to pay slightly more, 1800 rupees, through an agency in Thamel.

The second option is to take a local bus from Chabil, which offers a more comfortable experience with decent seating. However, due to multiple stops for passenger drop-offs and pickups, the journey can extend up to 16 hours. The cost ranges from 1000 to 1100 rupees.

Technically, there’s a third option of flying from Kathmandu (Phaplu has an airport), but considering the costs, it may be more practical to fly directly to Lukla at that point.

Regardless of whether you choose the bus or jeep, once in Salleri, I recommend walking a couple of kilometers to Phaplu to stretch your legs and slightly shorten the next day’s journey.

In Phaplu, Hotel New Shrestha, located across from the airport, offered us a free room and wifi, we only paid for meals, and on the return, they sold us a jeep ticket for 1500 rupees with direct pickup from the hotel, which I highly recommend.

N.B. Upon arriving in Salleri, if time is a concern, you could take a jeep to Kharikhola, saving a day and a half of walking. However, be aware that the road from Salleri to Kharikhola is in poor condition, and the journey is likely more challenging than the one from Kathmandu, taking 5-6 hours to cover 30 km, costing between 1300 to 1400 rupees.

Kharikola.

Day 2. Phaplu – Nunthala (6 – 7 hours, 18 km)

Phaplu (2500m) – Ringmu(2810m) – Taksindu (2930m) – Nunthala(2220m)

The first part of the journey involves walking along the road where traffic is virtually nonexistent. Upon reaching Ringmu, you leave the road and join the trail coming from Jiri.

Here, the path begins to ascend towards the pass, occasionally crossing the road. Once you reach the top, you’re rewarded with excellent views of the valley. There’s also a beautiful stupa that was under renovation during our visit. The descent from here to Nunthala village is then all downhill and takes about an hour or so.

I recommend sleeping at Shangrilla Lodge, a great facility, great food and free wifi.

Day 3. Nunthala – Bupsa (5 – 6 hours, 11 km)

Nunthala(2220m) – Jubing (1660m) – Kharikola (2100m) – Bupsa (2300m)

The day begins with a downhill trek through forests and small farming villages. Once at the bottom of the valley, you cross a suspension bridge and then embark on a long ascent to Kharikola. The trail flattens out briefly for a couple of kilometers before beginning to climb again towards Bupsa.

I recommend staying at the Bupsa Guesthouse located at the village entrance. They offer a free room and wifi in exchange for consuming meals, with great food and stunning views of the valley. If you wish to shorten the next day slightly, you can continue walking a couple of kilometers to Kharte or Puiya. On our journey, we initially planned to reach Puiya, but due to rain, we stopped in Kharte where the lodges are very basic. Puiya offers higher standards, but it can make for a longer day.

The pass before descending to Nunthala.

Day 4. Bupsa – Cheplung (7 hours, 17 km)

Bupsa (2300m) – Kharte (2530m) – Puiya (2760m) – Surke (2270m) – Cheplung (2690m)

The day starts with an uphill climb, followed by a gentle slope, and then a significant descent to Surke. From Surke, the trail ascends again towards Cheplung. We stayed at the first lodge at the village entrance in Cheplung, where we enjoyed a free room in exchange for meals and a hot shower for only 100 rupees, a great deal.

Note: There’s no necessity to pass through Lukla, as it would unnecessarily lengthen the route. From Cheplung, you can effectively follow the itinerary described in the section starting from Lukla, beginning on day 2 where you would start from Cheplung instead of Phakding, slightly extending the day’s trek.

In brief:

Day 5. Cheplung – Namche Bazar (7 – 8 hours , 15 km)

Day 6. Namche Bazar (Rest day / acclimatization)

Day 7. Namche Bazar – Tengboche (4 – 6 hours, 8km)

Day 8. Tengboche – Dingboche (4 – 6 hours, 10km)

Day 9. Dingboche (Rest day / acclimatization)

Possible variant to Chukhung, see itinerary from Lukla.

Day 10. Dingboche – Lobuche (4 – 6 hours, 7km)

Day 11. Lobuche – Gorak Shep – Everest Base Camp – Gorak Shep (5 – 8 hours, 15 km)

Day 12. Gorak Shep – Kala Pattar – Gorak Shep – Pherice (5 – 8 hours, 15 km)

Day 13. Pherice – Namche Bazar (6 – 8 hours, 15 km)

Day 14. Namche Bazar – Cheplung (6 – 7 hours, 15 km)

Day 15. Cheplung – Bupsa (7 hours, 17 km)

Day 16. Bupsa – Nunthala (5 – 6 hours, 11 km)

Day 17. Nunthala – Phaplu (6 – 7 hours, 18 km)

There is no need to walk all the way to Salleri. In contrast to the outward journey where the last stop for the Jeep is Salleri and you then have to walk to Phaplu, on the return journey the Phaplu lodges can arrange pickup directly from here.

Day 18. Bus/Jeep Phaplu – Kathmandu (9 – 16 hours, 260km)

Dingboche.

Trekking itinerary to Everest Base Camp starting from Jiri in 23 days

This is the longest trek to reach Everest Base Camp, following the original route taken in the 1950s by Edmund Hillary before the construction of the Lukla airport.

Compared to the itinerary starting from Lukla, this route adds approximately 6 days of walking from Jiri, passing through rice terraces and charming villages that are far from mass tourism. Once reaching Lukla, the itinerary essentially follows the same path, so I’ll provide a brief description to avoid repetition.

Note: I haven’t personally done this trek, so I’m sharing information I’ve found online and details I’ve gathered from the elevation profile of the route.

Day 1 Bus Kathmandu – Jiri (7-8 hours, 190km)

For the trip from Kathmandu you have two options: the microbus which costs 500/600 rupees and takes about 8 hours, has to be booked the day before to secure your seat, makes a couple of stops for restroom and eating but is basically a direct bus. The other option is the local bus which in addition to making the stops to pick up people on the street takes at least a couple of hours longer, 10 to 12 hours.

Both leave in the mornings between 6 and 8 a.m. from Ratna Parka, the bus station located south of Thamel (the neighborhood where most of the accommodations in Kathmandu are located) and can easily be reached on foot, as mentioned above I recommend getting tickets and confirming the time the day before. The road winds through the mountains, so if you get carsick you may have a miserable day. After the long journey I recommend spending the night in Jiri.

N.b. There is also a bus that covers the route to Bhandar but the part of the road from Jiri to Bandar is in poor condition and can take up to 18 hours starting from Kathmandu, the cost is 800 to 900 rupees.

Namche – Thame section.

Day 2. Jiri – Bhandar (7-8 hours, 18km)

Jiri (1905m) – Bhandar (2190m)

Many people decide to walk the first day to Bhandar but it is a long and tiring day consisting of many ups and downs and quite a bit of elevation gain. If you want to break up the day I recommend spending the night in Shivalaya which is about half way.

Day 3. Bhandar – Sete (5-6 hours, 13km)

Bhandar (2190m) – Sete (2575m)

The day starts downhill passing through a couple of villages until you reach the bottom of the valley and continue along a false plain that leads to the village of Kenja from where a steep climb then begins to Sete.

Day 4. Sete – Junbesi (6-7 hours, 13km)

Sete (2575m) – Junbesi (2670m)

The day continues uphill through the forest until you reach the Lamjura Pass from where you then descend to Jumbesi, one of the largest villages in the region.

Day 5 Junbesi – Nunthala (7-8 hours, 16km)

Junbesi (2670m) – Nunthala(2220m)

You start with a gentle climb through the forest, with occasional views of Mount Everest in the distance. Passing through the village of Ringmo, you can admire exceptional examples of Tibetan architecture. Finally, there’s a final push to cross the pass before beginning a gradual descent to Nunthala, where the trek joins the route to Everest Base Camp from Salleri/Phaplu, as described earlier.

Pheriche.

In brief:

Day 6. Nunthala – Bupsa (5 – 6 hours, 11 km)

Day 7. Bupsa – Cheplung (7 hours, 17 km)

Day 8. Cheplung – Namche Bazar (7 – 8 hours , 15 km)

Day 9. Namche Bazar – Tengboche (4 – 6 hours, 8km)

Day 10. Tengboche – Dingboche (4 – 6 hours, 10km)

Day 11. Dingboche (Rest day / acclimatization)

Possible variant to Chukhung, see itinerary from Lukla.

Day 12. Dingboche – Lobuche (4 – 6 hours, 7km)

Day 13. Lobuche – Gorak Shep – Everest Base Camp – Gorak Shep (5 – 8 hours, 15 km)

Day 14. Gorak Shep – Kala Pattar – Gorak Shep – Pherice (5 – 8 hours, 15 km)

Day 15. Pherice – Namche Bazar (6 – 8 hours, 15 km)

Day 16. Namche Bazar – Cheplung (6 – 7 hours, 15 km)

Day 17. Cheplung – Bupsa (7 hours, 17 km)

Day 18. Bupsa – Nunthala (5 – 6 hours, 11 km)

Of course, at this point you might decide to return to Kathmandu from Salleri/Phaplu and avoid a couple of days of walking.

Day 19. Nunthala – Junbesi (7-8 hours, 16km)

Day 20. Junbesi – Sete(6-7 hours, 13km)

Day 21. Sete – Bhandar (5-6 hours, 13km)

Day 22. Bhandar – Jiri (7-8 hours, 18km)

Day 23. Jiri Bus – Kathmandu (7-8 hours, 190km)

Thame monastery.

Trekking Itinerary of the Three Passes plus Everest Base Camp in 16 days

The Three Passes Trek, if followed strictly, skirts Everest Base Camp without actually reaching it, yet offers excellent views of the mountain. However, many trekkers opt to include a variant that combines the Three Passes Trek with a visit to Everest Base Camp.

While I’ve only completed a small part of this trek—from Dingboche to Chukhung and from Thame to Namche—I’ve gathered insights from other trekkers along the way. It appears to be a spectacular yet challenging trek. The three passes—Kongma La, Cho La, and Renjo La—are situated at 5545m, 5420m, and 5345m respectively, making it a demanding route, especially if undertaken without a porter.

Starting from Lukla, here’s a possible itinerary:

Day 1. Flight Kathmandu – Lukla (about 30 minutes) / Hiking Lukla – Phakding (4 hours, 8 km)

Day 2. Phakding – Namche Bazar (6 – 7 hours , 10 km)

Day 3. Namche Bazar (Rest day / acclimatization)

Day 4. Namche Bazar – Tengboche (4 – 6 hours, 8km)

Day 5. Tengboche – Dingboche (4 – 6 hours, 10km)

Day 6. Dingboche – Chukhung (2 hours, 4.5 km)

Day 7. Day of rest and acclimatization. Possible ascent to Chukhung Ri.

From Chukung, you can also consider visiting the nearby Island Peak base camp or even arranging a climb to the peak. Climbing Island Peak is a serious endeavor, not just a trek, and it requires a minimum level of mountaineering experience.

Island Peak, known as Imja Tse in Nepal, stands at 6189m. While it’s often recommended for novice mountaineers, it’s not suitable for everyone. Additionally, climbing above 6,000 meters requires special permits and can incur significant costs, easily amounting to a few thousand euros.

Sunrise from Chukhung Ri.

Day 8. Chukhung – Kongma Pass – Lobuche (8 hours, 9.5km)

Day 9. Lobuche – Gorak Shep – Everest Base Camp – Gorak Shep (5 – 8 hours, 15 km)

Day 10. Gorak Shep – Kala Pattar – Gorak Shep – Lobuche (4- 5 hours, 8 km)

Day 11. Lobuche – Dzongla (2 -3 hours, 6.5km)

Day 12. Dzongla – Chola Pass – Gokyo (7- 8 hours, 12km)

Day 13. Gokyo Ri – Rest day

Gokyo Ri is a peak that is only 2 km from Gokyo. It has been described to me several times as the best vantage point in the entire region so I truly believe it is worth it.

Day 13. Gokyo – Renjo Pass – Marlung (6 – 7 hours, 14km)

Day 14. Marlung – Namche Bazar (5 – 6 hours, 16km)

Day 15. Namche Bazar – Lukla (6 – 8 hours, 18 km)

Day 16. Lukla – Kathmandu flight (about 30 minutes)

Sunrise in Lobuche.

If you found this article helpful, please consider purchasing your travel insurance through one of the links you find on the blog to support my work at no additional cost to you. The insurance I recommend for this type of trip is TrueTraveller, adding the “Extreme Pack” package offers coverage for treks above 4600 meters. Alternatively, sign up for SafetyWing and add the “Adventure Sports” package which offers coverage up to 6000 meters.

What to bring for the Everest Base Camp Trek

Counting that camping is not necessary, the equipment needed is not much. Here is the complete list of equipment and clothing to put in your backpack.

Backpack – 50 liters is more than enough, but if you decide not to carry a sleeping bag, 40 is probably enough. Dad used his Berghaus TrailHead 50 while I used my Kelty Redwing 50 travel backpack, both are excellent backpacks – the former specifically for hiking, the latter is a hybrid.

Smartphone – The trails are well marked but having organic maps handy can definitely help in certain situations.

LifeStraw, water filter or water bottle with filter- All three are viable options that will save you quite a bit of money. At altitude, a water bottle can cost up to 300 rupees. I do not recommend tablets, as in my opinion they are impractical and expensive in the long run.

Headlamp – Most lodges have lights in the room and you would probably be able to get by with just your cell phone. However, having a headlamp is more convenient especially if you want to see the sunrise at Poon Hill or start walking early, for example on Thorong Pass day.

Sleeping Bag – We both brought it and did not regret it but you could potentially do without it especially if you plan to do the trek to Poon Hill only. Lodges always provide at least one blanket and you can often get a second one for free which is sufficient in most situations but I would also bring a light sleeping bag for a hygiene issue.

Neck Warmer – Useful for both cold and sun protection. I personally never leave without my merino wool buff that I also use for dust/smog. If you are not a fan of the buff, I recommend bringing a hat, the sun can really do damage.

Base Layer – Never used during the day but really useful in the evenings in lodges, and as pajamas to go to sleep, light and unobtrusive.

Synthetic towel – Practical, lightweight and dries quickly.

Waterproof case – Keep your documents and permits safe from water.

Kindle paperwhite – Obviously not necessary but both Dad and I were more than happy to have it during the afternoons spent relaxing in the lodges.

Sunglasses – Better if polarized.

Map – We completed all the treks without a physical map but it might come in handy. In Pokhara/Kathmandu it costs no more than 400 rupees.

Power Bank – You can almost always recharge for free in the lodges but at high altitudes you have to pay and having a power bank can save you quite a bit of money. 10000mah is more than enough if you just need to charge your phone.

First Aid Kit-Buy one already pre-packaged or prepare it yourself.

Hiking shoes – One pair of hiking shoes is more than enough to complete all routes but if you prefer boots, opt for a lightweight pair. I used a pair of Columbia Peakfreak, while Dad used a pair of Salomon LTR GTX.Flip-flops – Really comfortable in the evening to let your feet breathe a bit and take a shower. I do not recommend flip-flops as they are uncomfortable to wear with socks which are necessary at high altitude.

Merino wool socks – Nothing beats merino wool when it comes to hiking socks. At least 2 – 3 pairs so you can manage to wash them.

Light crampons – We didn’t have them, but they would have come in handy on the day of Thorong Pass and the day of Annapurna Base Camp. However, it’s worth mentioning that usually in April (when we did the trek), there should be no more snow. It varies from year to year and depends on the time of year you choose to do the treks. In fall and late spring, I think they are always unnecessary.

Trekking poles – I think you don’t need to spend a fortune, these AdventureAustria have served us well and are definitely inexpensive. In case you are a skeptic of trekking poles, I invite you to think again, especially on long distances they help a lot.

Down jacket – If you complete the circuit or reach the base camp during colder weather, these jackets really come in handy. They take up little space and keep you very warm.

Pail – In the evening, and also while walking at higher altitudes, it’s not particularly warm, so having a shawl is really comfortable. I wore mine pretty much every night.

Waterproof jacket or Poncho – In over 20 days, we have only caught rain once but it is always better safe than sorry.

Beauty case – Sunscreen, chapstick, bar of soap with case and perhaps a piece of soap for doing laundry, toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant and toilet paper (never provided by lodges).

To all this, I would add 2-3 synthetic T-shirts that dry really fast once washed, a pair of lightweight convertible pants (girls might opt for a pair of leggings) and a pair of thicker pants for use in the evenings or on colder days at high altitudes, and finally 3 pairs of underwear.

This is basically everything you need for trekking but you can always check out my complete list of things to bring on your trip so you don’t forget anything at all. Obviously, it is not absolutely necessary but I personally try to always put my body in the best possible condition and having some minerals on hand (low altitude can get really hot and you sweat a lot), some magnesium to take in the evening to relax the muscles and maybe some omega 3 to fight inflammation especially after 10 to 20 days of trekking would not hurt at all.

Thame.

Guide, porter or do-it-yourself

As mentioned earlier, we completed the trek independently in full DIY style and doing it is really easy. Getting lost is basically impossible as the trail is pretty much always obvious and well marked, plus, especially from Lukla on up, it is virtually impossible to walk without having someone in sight.

In the rare cases where you might have some doubt, you can always take a look at maps.me/organic maps where the route is plotted in full and the application works perfectly even offline. If all that doesn’t work, a village or some local place to ask for directions is never too far away although I highly doubt you’ll need it.

The only issue that might arise for those who decide to complete the trek independently are high altitude accommodations. Lobuche and Gorak Shep are in fact practically obligatory stops for everyone and during the high season the lodges always sell out, obviously the organized tours, but also the guides/porters, know this well so they book in advance, in any case do not despair.

The solution is quite simple: settle for sleeping in the dining hall or ask the lodges further down to make a reservation on your behalf. We chose this option to play it safe and all went well.

Clearly, not everyone feels up to trekking alone. Even from home, organized tours are not overpriced. If you want to save some money, booking directly in Kathmandu is definitely cheaper.

A final option that I would recommend especially for those who want a degree of freedom from the organized tour is to find yourself, once you arrive in Kathmandu, a porter/guide. If you wish, it is possible to do this along the way; I often saw signs advertising the service. This option is of course also useful in case you think you will not be able to carry your backpack.

The cost is about $20 per day and can normally carry up to 20-25 kilograms so it can also be shared by up to three people. Usually the price also includes his room and food but it is good to establish this in advance.

Base Camp.

Food and accommodation overview of the trek

Let’s talk about the lodges, often referred to as teahouses, encountered along the way, which pleasantly surprised me. Nearly every lodge we stayed in provided WiFi, hot water, and electricity. While these services are often charged for at high altitudes, their consistent availability was a pleasant surprise.

Each lodge typically provides at least one thick blanket, and you can usually request a second one without additional charges. Since we had sleeping bags, we rarely needed extra blankets. The only place where I saw a charge for an extra blanket was at High Camp along the Annapurna Circuit, which is understandable given its altitude of 4900 meters, where the bathroom was also a latrine. However, in all other guesthouses, the bathrooms were decent, although sometimes basic, with either toilets or Turkish-style toilets flushed with a bucket of water.

The rooms are quite simple, mostly double rooms with two single beds and a small bedside table. At lower altitudes, en-suite bathrooms are also possible. There is always a common area, typically serving as a dining room, which is heated in the evening when necessary due to altitude.

Tipycal Lodge.

In conclusion, don’t expect luxury hotels, but the accommodations are perfectly decent. As you ascend, the facilities become more basic: power outlets may disappear from rooms, and charges may apply for hot showers and WiFi.

Regarding food, the offerings are consistent throughout the trek. The cuisine mainly includes Nepalese, Indian, Chinese, and some Western dishes. The menus typically feature noodles, rice, stir-fried dishes with vegetables/chicken/beef/eggs/cheese, boiled eggs, omelets, dal bhat (a local dish with rice, vegetables, and lentil soup), various soups, pizzas, pancakes, porridge, muesli, a variety of teas, coffee, and other drinks.

Note: I recommend avoiding meat to prevent stomach issues, as the preservation methods may not always be optimal.

As you can see, there’s a good variety available, but we often found ourselves enjoying dal bhat twice a day, as it offers the best value in terms of cost and quantity, with refills usually offered generously.

As for water, some villages offer safe filling stations that guarantee water potability and are definitely a greener solution than plastic bottles. As mentioned above, I strongly recommend one between LifeStraw, water filter, and water bottle with filter-you save money and don’t have to rely on filling stations.

Overview costs of trekking to Everest Base Camp

Food

Breakfast (porridge, omelet, muesli)

At low altitude: 300 to 400 rupees.

At altitude (above 3000 to 3500m): 500 to 600 rupees.

Lunch/dinner (Fried rice, pizza, pasta, dal bhat etc etc)

At low altitude: 450 to 500 rupees.

At altitude (above 3500m): 700 to 800 rupees.

Soups

At low altitude: 200 to 250 rupees.

At altitude (above 3500m): 300 to 450 rupees.

Tea

At low altitude: 50 rupees.

At altitude (above 3500m): 120 rupees.

Water

At low altitude: 50 to 100 rupees.

At altitude (above 3500m): 200 rupees.

As mentioned several times in this guide, I strongly recommend a LifeStraw, water filter or water bottle with filter.

Dal Bhat.

Accommodation

Lodging is really cheap, often even free by consuming 2-3 meals especially if you have the will to bargain. We, for example, paid for the room only in Pangboche (250 for a double), Chukhung (500 rupees for a double), Lobuche (700 rupees for a double) and in Gorak Shep (700 rupees for a double).

Being two certainly puts you in an advantageous position for negotiating prices, but even alone at lower altitudes, it’s possible to find accommodation for free or for no more than 100-200 rupees.

There are other costs to consider, such as hot showers, WiFi, and electricity. These amenities typically become chargeable from Namche Bazaar onwards. We basically stopped showering, as hot showers, when available, usually cost around 500 rupees. I chose not to pay 5€ for WiFi access and relied on my power bank to charge my cell phone and camera.

Charging rates usually apply per hour or per device. However, especially at higher altitudes, charging efficiency can be low. Some travelers in Gorak Shep mentioned that even after leaving their phones charging all night, they only gained a 10% charge.

Namche Bazar.

Total cost of trekking to Everest base camp

The cost of our trek, starting from Phaplu, including all costs (food, lodging and permits but not the visa to enter the country) and expenses incurred for two days in Kathmandu (the day before and after the trek) was 370€ each. For 20 days, about 20€ per day should be enough. In any case I recommend having at least the equivalent of 25€ per day in cash, except about the same costs starting from Jiri (20€ per day for 23 days so about 460€).

This is counting three meals a day but practically no extras (alcohol, soft drinks, desserts, etc. etc.) another thing to keep in mind is that being two people it is often possible to have free lodging, the only exceptions for us were in Lobuche, Chukhung and Gorak Shep.

N.b. We had just completed the Annapurna circuit so our itinerary did not include any acclimatization days (thus saving two days of food and lodging compared to the described itinerary) but on the other hand we did two variants, to Chukhung and Thame which took us two days, so to make a long story short we still spent 18 days trekking (as per the described itinerary starting from Phaplu) plus two days in Kathmandu for a total of 20 days.

Starting from Lukla the costs rise considerably counting that the flight alone costs around $330 and the total cost of the trek should be approximately €600 for the planned 12-day itinerary starting from Lukla.

In any case, once the flight is paid for, food and lodging expenses are more or less the same and an average of €20 per day should be sufficient. I still recommend having at least the equivalent of €25 per day in cash.

Being able to pay with a card is by no means a given but it is technically possible to withdraw cash in Lukla and Namche. I still recommend not relying on it too much and filling up with cash in Kathmandu.

Nabil Bank allows you to withdraw up to 35000 rupees with a fee of 500 rupees while Standard Chartered Bank allows you to withdraw up to 25000 with no fees. These are the two best options for withdrawing depending on the card you have. For more information on which cards to use abroad (without spending a fortune in bank fees) I strongly recommend you check out this article.

Pheriche valley.

Safety along the trails

The entire area (and Nepal more generally) is extremely safe. We never felt threatened, and the locals were incredibly friendly and helpful throughout our journey. The trails are well-marked and well-maintained, making them easy to follow. However, as mentioned several times, you can always consult maps.me/organic maps if you have any doubts.

The only real danger may be the altitude. You may experience so-called mountain sickness. After reaching 3000 to 3500 meters, some people may start to experience symptoms such as lack of appetite, difficulty breathing, headache, difficulty sleeping, fatigue, vomiting, etc.

Here are four useful tips:

The most important rule of all is to avoid overdoing it. Climb at a steady pace. Ideally, climb slower than you feel you could sustain.
Don’t underestimate the symptoms. If you experience a slight headache before bedtime and feel fine the next day, there is no problem. But if the symptoms persist, avoid gaining altitude again. Often, a day of acclimatization/rest is more than enough to continue. In some cases, it is advisable to descend a few hundred meters and, once you feel better, resume the ascent. Basically, never continue climbing if you feel sick.
After reaching 3000 meters, it is recommended to never sleep more than 500 meters above the previous night’s altitude. To be honest, we often exceeded this recommendation without any problems. In any case, I would limit myself to 700/800 meters at most.
Drink lots of water. Staying hydrated is essential.

There are also some medications, such as Diamox, that help prevent altitude sickness. However, I have no experience with them. In my opinion, it is better to listen to your body instead of relying on medications.

Finally, most of the supplies to the villages are carried by mules and yaks, these animals are not exactly graceful in their movements so be especially careful and always keep to the inside of the trail to avoid being pushed towards the valley floor.

N.b. In light of fraudulent practices by some local tour operators, in case you really need a helicopter evacuation, it is important to try to contact your insurance company to make arrangements to avoid disputes.

Mules along the trail.

Where to sleep in Kathmandu

I spent two weeks in Kathmandu, trying out several accommodations, first with Dad and then on my own while waiting for my visa to India. Here are my recommendations.

Thamel Hostel – Bargain prices for both dorm and private rooms, breakfast included. The facility and wifi are not the best but it definitely remains a good value for money.

The Sparkling Turtle – Great hostel at a very good price with really nice staff. The only downside is the location, it is in fact about 3km from the center of Thamel near the Monkey Temple, otherwise, it is highly recommended.

Shangrilla Lodge – Clean and inexpensive private rooms right in the center of Thamel, great Wifi and the attached restaurant is a real treat.

Hotel Triratna – Good facility slightly further from downtown Thamel, wifi great, single room is really cheap.

Thamel Home – Slightly more expensive than the options listed so far, but still affordable by my standards. The rooms are really nice, the Wi-Fi is great, the included breakfast is decent, the staff is definitely friendly and helpful, and the location is great.

For donations/pizzas and virtual beers 🙂

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