Mexico Travel Guide
This giant North American country covers about 2 million square kilometers and over 10,000 km of coastline. It’s among the 10 most visited countries in the world and has something to offer for every taste: Caribbean beaches, mountains, deserts, ruins, colonial cities and much more.
I spent more than a month backpacking around the country, and in this guide you’ll find a lot of tips and information to organize your trip as best you can.
Quick menu
- When to visit Mexico
- Documents and vaccinations to enter Mexico
- What to do and see in Mexico
- Suggested itineraries in Mexico
- How to get around Mexico
- Backpacking Mexico: costs
- Backpacking Mexico: safety
The Pyramids of Teotihuacan near Mexico City.
When to visit Mexico
Summer, which runs from June to October, is theoretically the rainy season, but rainfall varies a lot depending on the region.
The center of the country is where the season is most pronounced, though the daily rainfall is usually concentrated in a few hours in the afternoon (Chiapas is the state where it rains the most). Along the coast, rainfall is less frequent but comes with high humidity, while in the north it almost never rains.
Between September and October it’s hurricane season: along the coasts rainfall is more frequent and, of course, there’s a chance of running into tropical storms.
November marks the beginning of the dry season and is probably the best month to explore the country, since the rains have just ended, the vegetation is lush and the high season hasn’t started yet. From December to April the weather is excellent, and in fact it coincides with the high season, especially in the Yucatan.
That said, you can easily visit Mexico all year round. I was there at the turn of September and October, so during hurricane season: it often rained in the afternoon, but only for a few hours, and it was never a big problem.
Sunrise at Bacalar Lagoon.
Documents and vaccinations to enter Mexico
With an Italian passport, you get a 180-day tourist visa when you enter the country (the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours).
The visa is free, but there’s a 717 MXN tourist tax that has to be paid when you leave the country. Some airlines include it in the ticket price. I entered by land from Guatemala and had to pay it. Keep the receipt!
There are no mandatory vaccinations required to enter Mexico, but Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B are recommended.
For up-to-date information on visas and so on, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).
Waterfall in the forest near the ruins of Palenque.
What to do and see in Mexico
When it comes to planning a trip to Mexico, a country that on its own is bigger than all the Central American countries put together, it’s clear that you’d need to spend months, if not years, to see all of it.
The classic Mexico itinerary basically runs from Mexico City to the Yucatan Peninsula. It’s an easy itinerary to follow and can be combined with neighboring Guatemala and Belize. As you can see from the map, this guide mainly covers these places, which in my opinion are a good compromise between beaches, cities and ruins, between nature and culture.
Prices in this guide are expressed in the local currency. The official currency in Mexico is the Mexican Peso, abbreviated as “MXN” or simply “P.”
The exchange rate is about 1€ = 21 MXN. For the current exchange rate, I suggest checking this page.
Mexico City
The capital, with its 10 million inhabitants, which even exceed 20 million if you consider the entire metropolitan area. Many of the districts that make up the city are sketchy and generally don’t have much to offer tourists, but the heart of the city is truly fascinating and worth a visit.
What to do and see in Mexico City
In the city center, and particularly in the area around the Zócalo which is the main square (Google Maps), there are a lot of historic buildings, churches and museums. Among the museums I recommend the anthropology museum (Google Maps), one of the best in the world, or the Frida Kahlo museum (Google Maps), which, however, I didn’t personally visit.
A couple of blocks from the main square you’ll find La Lagunilla (Google Maps), a huge market that’s definitely worth a visit, and if you feel like it, you can join a free walking tour.
The Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.
Pyramids of Teotihuacan
Also known as the “City of the Gods”, it’s an archaeological site located 40 km north of Mexico City (Google Maps). Here you’ll find some of the largest pyramids in the world, built by what was the largest pre-Columbian civilization, with a population that reached 150,000 people.
The site is truly impressive and deserves at least half a day. You can easily reach it by bus from the Terminal Autobuses del Norte (it’s along Metro line 5, at the stop of the same name, Google Maps); buses leave every 20 minutes from Puerta 8, 60 MXN one way.
Entrance to the archaeological park, on the other hand, costs 80 MXN and includes access to the museum. I recommend visiting in the morning, since there’s quite a lot of walking and the site is completely exposed to the sun; you can climb to the top of the pyramids, so it’s best to avoid the hottest hours of the day.
Note: Once your visit is over, there’s no need to go back to the entrance; it’s better to exit from “puerta 3”, where the same buses pass every 20 minutes or so on their way back to Mexico City.
On top of the Pyramid of the Sun at Teotihuacan.
Where to sleep in Mexico City?
Mexico City Hostel is a good hostel. Quiet atmosphere and great location, literally steps away from the Zócalo.
How to reach Mexico City?
For short and long distances there are direct buses to many destinations. For longer trips I recommend looking at domestic flights which in some cases are really cheap. From all bus terminals, and also from the airport, you have direct access to the subway, which is cheap and efficient.
Puebla
Puebla was the first city in central Mexico that was not founded by the Spanish over the ruins of some ancient settlement. During the colonial period, due to its strategic location between Veracruz and Mexico City, it was the second most important city, and you can still see its former splendor today.
What to do and see in Puebla
The Zócalo (Google Maps) is really beautiful and became a UNESCO site in 1987, with well-preserved colonial buildings everywhere and an impressive cathedral, especially in the evening when it’s lit up. It’s definitely worth walking around the adjacent streets as well.
I also went up to “Los Fuertes” (Fuerte de Loreto and Fuerte de Guadalupe), at the top of Cerro de Guadalupe, which overlooks the city. I walked there and it was a nice walk; there’s a nice park at the top and the view is great (Google Maps). You can also visit the forts.
Puebla cathedral.
Cholula
Cholula is a city only 10 km from Puebla; the town has 45 churches and an archaeological site (not particularly impressive, in my opinion). The symbol of the city is the cathedral built on top of the Tepanapa pyramid, which dominates the city and is the largest pyramid in the world in terms of volume.
Unfortunately, during my visit, access to the top of the pyramid/cathedral was closed because of the recent earthquake, but things may have changed since then. In any case, it was still possible to visit the tunnels under the pyramid and the archaeological area (Google Maps) that surrounds it, as well as the museum (Google Maps), where during my visit they were showing a 3D video of various archaeological sites in Mexico. Admission to the site, which also includes the museum, is 85 pesos.
I visited Cholula on a day trip from Puebla, so I can’t speak from personal experience, but I was told the nightlife is great, since it’s mostly a university town. From downtown Puebla, it’s best to catch the bus at this spot: it’s a 20-30 minute bus ride, 7.50 pesos.
The cathedral at the top of the Cholula pyramid.
Cuexcomate
It’s the world’s smallest volcano and it’s located in one of Puebla’s suburbs (Google Maps), in La Libertad, to be exact. It’s nothing spectacular, but it’s a nice way to spend a couple of hours. Take a bus along Avenida 11 oriente bound for Libertad and get off at the main square, which is also the last bus stop; the volcano is in the middle of the square.
How to get to Puebla?
The city is only two hours from Mexico City and there are buses about every 20 minutes departing from Terminal TAPO (also known as Terminal de Oriente, San Lazaro metro stop, Google Maps) but also from Benito Juarez Airport and from Terminal del Norte, where departures are less frequent, though: it’s about 2 hours, 160-200 MXN.
Where to sleep in Puebla?
Hostal Casa De Arcos is an excellent, really well-kept hostel a stone’s throw from downtown, with large, spacious dorms and a relaxed atmosphere.
Oaxaca
Oaxaca was undoubtedly my favorite city during my trip to Mexico. Its streets have a really relaxed atmosphere, but at the same time there’s always something interesting to see: a street performer, a demonstration or, if you’re lucky like me, even a rather unusual wedding.
The wedding celebrations.
What to do and see in Oaxaca
As always, the area around the Zócalo (Google Maps) is the liveliest part of the city, and that’s where you’ll find the most interesting colonial buildings; also take a stroll through the nearby Mercado Benito Juarez (Google Maps). A few blocks further north, don’t miss the Ex Convento de Santo Domingo (Google Maps), open every day except Monday from 10:00 to 20:00, 90 MXN.
Another site I particularly enjoyed was the botanical garden that is also part of the former convent. To visit it you have to join the guided tour but it was really interesting and I recommend it. The tour is offered three times a day in Spanish and in other languages on alternate days. The tour in Spanish costs 50 MXN versus 100 MXN for the other languages. At the bottom of this page you’ll find the schedule.
Monte Alban
I’ll start by saying that I didn’t visit the site, since I was coming off almost a year of travel and countless archaeological sites, but it’s said to be one of the most impressive in the region (Google Maps).
There are numerous tours that leave from Oaxaca but if you want to visit the site on your own you can simply take a shuttle from Hotel Riviera de Angel (Google Maps) for 90 MXN. Site admission costs 80 MXN.
The ball court at the Monte Alban ruins.
Hierve el Agua
It’s a surreal place, a spring at an altitude of about 1,700 meters that has formed a series of natural pools culminating in a giant petrified waterfall, all topped off with a spectacular view of the valley.
Unfortunately, the place loses some of its charm due to the heavy tourist presence and all that goes with it, but it’s still something unique.
The site is about 2 hours from the city and can also be reached by public transportation: from the baseball stadium take a bus to Mitla (18 pesos, 1 hour), from where there are camionetas to Hierve el Agua, 40 pesos.
The Hierve el Agua waterfall.
Where to sleep in Oaxaca?
Hostal de Las Américas excellent hostel a short walk from downtown, new and clean place, really kind and helpful staff.
How to reach Oaxaca?
From Mexico City but also from nearby Puebla there are numerous departures per day, about 6-7 hours. Coming from San Cristobal take a look at the ADO website, it’s about 11 hours.
Puerto Escondido
The famous Puerto Escondido is known for its excellent surfing conditions and great nightlife. Once a quiet fishing village, it can now be considered the classic “tourist trap”, with prices significantly higher than in the rest of the country, and it’s extremely crowded. If you think it could still be an interesting destination, here’s a guide to the various beaches of Puerto Escondido.
If you’re looking for a more relaxed and authentic atmosphere, I recommend one of the towns further south along the coast, such as Zipolite.
How to reach Puerto Escondido?
There are numerous direct buses leaving from Mexico City and Oaxaca. You can take a look at ADO.
Zipolite
Zipolite is a destination that’s growing in popularity, especially among backpackers; it’s the ideal place for anyone looking for a seaside village with a relaxed atmosphere, an uncrowded beach and really cheap prices.
There’s not much to do in the village except enjoy the beach, maybe with good company or a good book. Surfing is also possible.
The water is so dirty because of the heavy rains!
Where to sleep in Zipolite?
I slept at “El Carrizal Hostel” with a very hippie atmosphere and not exactly the cleanest, but extremely cheap at only 50 pesos a night. The French lady who owns the place is a real character. The hostel probably isn’t for everyone, but there are plenty of other options that are still cheap (closed since November 2023). Check out Maracuyá Hostal Zipolite.
How to reach Zipolite?
Ado has quite a few buses (even at night) to nearby Pochutla (9-10 hours), from where there are colectivos to Zipolite, about half an hour. The quicker and cheaper but less comfortable alternative is to take one of the minibuses that shuttle back and forth during the day between Pochutla and Oaxaca; it’s about 7 hours. In some stretches, though, the road is full of hairpin turns, and for some people that could be a problem.
San Cristóbal de las Casas
San Cristóbal is a charming colonial town in the heart of the mountains of the state of Chiapas. The city itself, with its colonial buildings and its many churches and squares, is undoubtedly the main attraction, but you can also visit numerous villages where Mayan culture and tradition are still strong.
What to do and see in San Cristóbal de las Casas
As mentioned above, the city alone deserves at least a day of exploration; I recommend climbing the steps leading up to the Iglesia de Guadalupe or Iglesia Antonio. From both you have good views of the city.
Mirador Iglesia Antonio.
San Juan Chamula
Of all the Mayan villages surrounding the city, San Juan Chamula is undoubtedly the most visited. Here you’ll find a church where Catholic and Mayan rites have mixed over the years in a really unusual way (Google Maps). The church is literally covered with candles and offerings to the gods are made all the time; I didn’t see it myself, but I was told that sometimes animal sacrifices are made too.
Admission to the church costs 10 pesos if I’m not mistaken, and you’re not allowed to take photos or videos, an interesting experience to say the least. There isn’t much else to do in the village, but you could take a stroll around the market (Google Maps) or have a look at the nearby cemetery (Google Maps), which isn’t exactly a traditional one. The village is only 20 minutes from San Cristobal; colectivos leave from a microbus station near the main market (location), 20 pesos.
The San Juan Chamula cemetery.
El Chiflón
This is a series of truly impressive waterfalls and natural pools (Google Maps). As always you can join a tour, which normally includes a visit to the Montebello Lakes, or rely on public transportation as I explain below.
Take a bus (Google Maps) or colectivo (Google Maps) to Comitán, about 2 hours (colectivos are faster and cheaper); about 3 blocks from the Comitán terminal (Google Maps) you’ll find the shuttles to El Chiflón (Google Maps), about 40 minutes, 40 pesos. Admission to the falls costs 80 pesos. The trail is really short, but the view of the main waterfall, “Velo de la Novia”, is truly spectacular.
The El Chiflón waterfall.
Sumidero Canyon
I didn’t personally visit the canyon, but it’s a fairly popular attraction. In some places it’s more than a kilometer deep. The tour usually involves walking down to the base of the canyon and then getting on a boat to travel along a stretch of the canyon on the river that runs through it. On this page you’ll find a guide that explains how to organize the excursion on your own.
Where to sleep in San Cristóbal de las Casas?
Hostel el Mirador is a stone’s throw from the Guadalupe church I mentioned earlier; there’s a nice inner garden and a great breakfast included in the price, and it’s slightly far from the center.
How to reach San Cristóbal de las Casas?
There are direct buses to and from almost every possible destination; keep in mind that to Palenque the colectivos are faster and cheaper than the buses: you have to change in Ocosingo, but it’s a matter of a few minutes.
If you’re arriving from or continuing on to Guatemala and don’t want to take the tourist shuttles (much more expensive), first take the colectivo to Comitán (the same one as for El Chiflón); from there, there are other colectivos to the “Ciudad Cuauhtémoc” border. Here you’ll find a detailed article on how to continue to Quetzaltenango.
The cathedral of San Cristobal.
Palenque
Palenque is both the name of the town and of the famous ruins, about 6 km from the center. Honestly, the town is nothing special, although the area around the main square isn’t that bad; in any case, I recommend staying just outside the ruins at “El Panchan”, which I’ll talk about in detail in the “where to sleep” section.
What to do and see in Palenque
Obviously the ruins are the main attraction, but Palenque is also an excellent base for exploring other sites not too far away.
The ruins of Palenque
If you’re staying in town, keep in mind that there are colectivos shuttling back and forth every 10-15 minutes, convenient and efficient, 25 pesos (Google Maps). There are two entrances to the ruins. I strongly recommend taking the secondary one just after the museum (Google Maps), about 1.5 km before the main entrance, because there’s a short trail through the jungle with a small waterfall (Google Maps) along the way.
The ruins are really worth it, and if you visit early in the morning (the site opens at 8:00) they aren’t even too crowded. Only the central acropolis has been excavated, so the site isn’t very large; in my opinion, a couple of hours are enough. Entrance to the site costs 90 pesos, and you also have to pay the entrance fee to the national park, 105 pesos.
The ruins of Palenque.
Agua Azul
This is a series of waterfalls somewhat similar to El Chiflón. You can easily visit them on a day trip from Palenque or, if you’re traveling light, you could combine the visit with the transfer to San Cristobal or vice versa.
The falls are in fact along the road to Ocosingo, so you can simply take a colectivo headed there. They leave from this spot and cost 60 pesos. Then you have to get off at this spot and take one of the colectivos that shuttle back and forth to the falls for 30 pesos; if you want, you could even walk. The entrance to the falls costs 40 pesos.
Finally, you can visit the nearby ruins of Yaxchilan (Google Maps). I didn’t go there personally because, even without relying on a tour, it’s still relatively expensive to get there. In fact, the ruins can’t be reached by land, and you have to take a boat from Frontera Corozal for about 40 minutes; the cost starts at 800 MXN, so it may be worth it in a group, but anyway, judging from the photos, the ruins don’t look that impressive.
Agua Azul waterfall.
Where to sleep in Palenque?
As I mentioned before, I recommend staying at “El Panchan”, a complex of all kinds of accommodation and some restaurants, literally immersed in the jungle at the entrance to the national park, a stone’s throw from the ruins.
I personally recommend staying at Jungle Palace: they offer really cheap cabanas (small bungalows). Nothing luxurious, but definitely a great option. In any case, there are other options nearby. There’s a really nice lady who runs a small “restaurant” just outside the place; the food is cheap, but remind her that you’re not a rich “gringo”.
How to reach Palenque?
From San Cristobal there are frequent buses, but remember that the colectivos via Ocosingo are faster and cheaper. Toward the Yucatan Peninsula, the only direct connections are to Merida with ADO. If you continue on to Guatemala, however, you can cross the border at Frontera Corozal as described in detail in the guide dedicated to Guatemala.
Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.
The Yucatán Peninsula
The Yucatán Peninsula is undoubtedly the most touristy and expensive region in the country, especially along the so-called “Riviera Maya”, where places like Cancun and Playa del Carmen are now full of resorts and, more generally, have been extremely busy and popular for years, especially with North American tourists.
In any case, there are many destinations that are definitely worth visiting.
Cancun
Let’s start with the main hub of the peninsula, Cancun. Long story short, it’s not a place I’d recommend unless you’re looking for an all-inclusive vacation at a hotel/resort by the sea, but I doubt you’d be here reading this guide!
In my opinion, the city can be described as a giant playground for Americans, who literally invade it, especially during school vacations. If, however, you’re looking for a few days of beach and nightlife, it’s probably not that bad; in any case, my advice is to skip it.
Cancun on the horizon seen from Isla Mujeres in the company of some of the guys from the hostel.
Where to sleep in Cancun?
The Boat House Cancun is a great hostel a stone’s throw from the bus station, so it’s ideal for spending a night before heading to your next destination.
Isla Mujeres
Isla Mujeres is the island right across from Cancun. It was the last stop of my long trip through Latin America, and because of that the days I spent here had a very special feel, to say the least.
In any case, the island’s beaches are stunning and, despite the short distance from Cancun, much less crowded than on the mainland. I was there at the end of October and the island was extremely pleasant; it’s probably not the same during high season, but in any case the island is better than Cancun in every respect.
There’s not much to do on the island except laze on the beach. I rented a golf cart with some people from the hostel to explore the southern part of the island, where there are some “ruins”: a nice day, but honestly, you’re not missing anything.
Where to sleep in Isla Mujeres?
Mayan Monkey Isla Mujeres is one of the few hostels on the island, nice but not exactly cheap.
How to reach Isla Mujeres?
There are at least a couple of companies that cover the route, and they leave from three different points in Cancun. By far the cheapest ferry is the one that leaves from Punta Sam (Google Maps); it’s the ferry that also carries vehicles, so it’s slower than the others but costs less. You can find the schedules on this page. The faster but more expensive alternative is Ultramar.
To reach Punta Sam, there are colectivos that pass along the road in front of the bus terminal.
Giant soap bubbles on the beach at Isla Mujeres.
Playa del Carmen
It’s the first tourist destination heading south from Cancun. I’ll say up front that I haven’t been there personally, but everyone I talked to described it as a miniature Cancun; Wikitravel even calls it a “resort town”.
So if you’re looking for a destination with nice beaches and great nightlife for your vacation, it’s probably not that bad, but if you’re looking for something more authentic and cheaper, you’d better look elsewhere.
How to get to Playa del Carmen?
From Cancun, there are colectivos that run frequently (Google Maps). The trip takes about 45 minutes.
Cozumel
Cozumel is the island across from Playa del Carmen. I’ll say up front that I haven’t been here either, but only because of time, since from what I’ve read around and from other travelers’ stories, the island seems to be a truly incredible place.
It’s considered one of the best places in the world for diving, and that’s undoubtedly the main activity. The main settlement is the town of San Miguel on the west side of the island, but if you rent a car or a scooter, it’s worth exploring the east side, which is less developed and where breathtaking beaches dominate the landscape.
There are also some archaeological sites, but I don’t think they’re as impressive as others you can find in the Yucatan.
How to reach Cozumel?
Departing from Playa del Carmen there are ferries about every hour. The trip takes 35-40 minutes and is offered by two companies: Ultramar, as always, is the most expensive; the cheaper alternative is Mexico Waterjets.
Tulum
I think Tulum is the best destination along the so-called “Riviera Maya”: a more relaxed atmosphere, more reasonable prices than Cancun and Playa del Carmen, and fantastic beaches. It’s also the ideal base for exploring the nearby ruins of Tulum and Cobá, not far away, and many cenotes (a type of cave with fresh water).
What to do and see in Tulum
The town is small and not particularly lively during the day, but in the evening people come out into the streets and everything comes to life. There are a few bars, but if you’re looking for a more authentic atmosphere, I recommend this square or even Parque dos Aguas, where I caught a concert in the evening. Eat at least once at Antojitos: delicious and extremely cheap food.
The ruins of Tulum
The ruins (Google Maps) are certainly not the most imposing you can see, but their setting makes them unique: the site is in fact on a cliff overlooking the crystal clear sea and white beaches.
The ruins are extremely popular, which is why I recommend visiting them early in the morning, before the busloads of tourists from Playa del Carmen and Cancun arrive; the site opens at 8:00.
The entrance to the ruins is easy to reach with any colectivo heading north, since it’s only a kilometer from the main road; if you want, you could even walk or bike there, as it’s about 4 km from the center. The entrance to the ruins costs 95 pesos.
The archaeological site of Tulum.
Akumal
It’s a small town between Playa del Carmen and Tulum, famous because a seaweed that sea turtles love to eat grows in the main bay, and in fact there are hundreds of them! (Google Maps)
It’s mandatory to go in the water with a life jacket, which makes it impossible to dive down and disturb the turtles; also, there are designated areas where you can snorkel, while others are off-limits. You can easily rent equipment on site. Entrance to the beach costs 120 pesos.
To reach Akumal, here too you just need to take any colectivo heading north; the beach is less than 1 km from the main road.
One of the hundreds of turtles in Akumal bay.
The ruins of Cobá
They’re certainly not the most impressive ruins in the region, but they have “El Castillo”, a really tall temple and one of the few you can still climb; from the top you get incredible views of the surrounding jungle (Google Maps).
The ruins can be easily reached by colectivo from Tulum (Google Maps), which takes about an hour. Admission costs 95 pesos.
El Castillo at Cobá.
The cenotes
There are literally hundreds of them in the region. The most popular ones can be extremely expensive: Dos Ojos (Google Maps) for example costs a whopping 400 MXN. In many cenotes you can go diving or just snorkeling.
Personally, in Tulum I only visited Cenote Calavera (Google Maps), which didn’t particularly excite me; Gran Cenote (Google Maps), not far away, seems to be many people’s favorite. Here you’ll find reviews and photos of some cenotes.
Where to sleep in Tulum?
Maui Hostels Tulum is a good hostel just outside the center.
How to reach Tulum?
There are buses and colectivos frequently shuttling along the coast to Playa del Carmen and Cancun in the north, but also to Bacalar in the south and Valladolid in the east. Colectivo stop (Google Maps).
The Calavera cenote.
Valladolid
Valladolid is a small city in the center of the peninsula that pleasantly surprised me: the center preserves lots of colonial buildings in good condition, and the atmosphere is far more authentic than in any other city I visited in the Yucatan.
It’s also the ideal base for visiting the nearby ruins of Chichén Itzá while avoiding the hordes of people arriving in the late morning from Cancun and Playa del Carmen.
What to do and see in Valladolid
Valladolid is really small and can easily be explored on foot, although I recommend renting a bike for a day to also explore the nearby cenote I’m about to talk about.
Cenote at Hacienda San Lorenzo Oxman
This cenote (Google Maps) is a great alternative to the more popular Cenote Zaci (Google Maps), which is right in the center of town. You can get there by taxi (about 70 pesos) or by renting a bike for about 80 pesos; it’s only 5 km from the town center.
The cenote is really cool, with lots of roots running down the walls until they touch the water, and above all, it’s really uncrowded. Inside the property, there’s a nice pool. When I was there, it was possible to pay for the cenote entrance only (30 pesos), but from what I’ve been told, there are now only two types of tickets: access to the pool and cenote for 150 pesos, or 300 pesos with food and drinks at the bar.
The Hacienda San Lorenzo cenote.
Chichén Itzá
The famous ruins, considered one of the 7 Wonders of the Modern World, are undoubtedly the most visited in the entire region and are literally overrun by day-trippers especially from Cancun and Playa del Carmen.
Valladolid, which is only a 45-minute bus ride away, is the ideal base for exploring the ruins before the crowds arrive. I recommend taking the first colectivo at 7:00 (they leave from the intersection of Calle 46 and Calle 39, at this spot) so that you arrive at the entrance in time for the 8:00 opening. Entrance to the site costs 614 pesos, which is really a lot. I’m not convinced it’s worth it at that price.
Finally, if you don’t want to join an organized tour to visit Las Coloradas, the best place to start from is Valladolid; in this post you’ll find precise instructions on how to get there by public transportation.
The pyramid of Chichen Itza.
Where to sleep in Valladolid?
Hostel Tunich Naj is well located, a stone’s throw from downtown and the bus station, really kind staff.
How to reach Valladolid?
From the bus station (Google Maps) there are several daily departures to all major cities on the Peninsula.
Holbox Island
I didn’t personally visit the island because the weather forecast was dreadful 🙂 but many travelers had recommended it to me. It’s a Caribbean island that’s much less visited than the more popular Isla Mujeres and Cozumel.
It’s best reached from Valladolid and Cancun via the town of Chiquilá, from where ferries leave about every half hour during the day. Here you’ll find an article about it.
Holbox Island from above.
Merida
Merida, the capital of the Yucatan as well as the first city “founded” by the conquistadors. The city preserves a lot of colonial buildings, and in general the historic center is really beautiful.
There’s no particular sight to see, but the attraction is the city itself. There are, however, a couple of places that are undoubtedly worth visiting: Plaza de la Independencia (Google Maps), the main square, where there’s always some event in the evening (find upcoming events here), Palacio del Gobierno (Google Maps) and the Cathedral (Google Maps). There’s also a tour of 3 cenotes in the area: here you’ll find a detailed post.
Where to sleep in Merida?
Hostal Catedral Merida is a great hostel right in the center of Merida.
How to reach Merida?
Merida is a fairly large city and has direct connections to all the major cities on the peninsula, even Palenque. The bus terminal is conveniently located near the center (Google Maps).
Campeche
I haven’t personally been there, but it’s another well-preserved colonial city still far from mass tourism, on the Gulf of Mexico coast. The historic center was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 and is characterized by cobblestone streets and brightly colored buildings.
Here you’ll find a great article that talks about the city in detail.
How to reach Campeche?
The most practical and fastest way to reach Campeche is from nearby Merida, which is only 2 hours away and has buses that run back and forth every hour or so. But there are also direct buses from Ciudad del Carmen and Cancun, although less frequent.
Bacalar
Bacalar, and more specifically the lagoon of the same name, is an incredible place to say the least, a true gem fortunately still little visited by vacationers who often stay further north along the coast.
What to do and see in Bacalar
Without a doubt, the main attraction here is the Bacalar Lagoon, also known as the “Laguna de los 7 Colores” for its incredible shades of blue and azure.
You can also visit a small fort (Google Maps) near the town square, though, honestly, it doesn’t look like much from the outside.
N.b. From the town, access to the lagoon isn’t easy, since it’s full of private properties/hotels/hostels, but there’s a municipal pier where you can get to the water.
Where to sleep in Bacalar?
Yaxche Hostel: the hostel itself is nothing special and isn’t on the lagoon like many other places, but it has another property outside town, with a free shuttle service there every day. The area is really well equipped, with swings in the water, gazebos, a small bar/restaurant and a few rooms. The water here is much cleaner and, being outside the town, it feels like you’re miles away from everything.
How to reach Bacalar?
From the north (Tulum, Playa del Carmen and Cancun) there are several daily departures with ADO or MAYAB (cheaper), but there are also colectivos that go through Felipe Carrillo Puerto, where you have to change. From Chetumal in the south, the cheapest option is the shared taxis that leave from this spot.
The incredible Bacalar Lagoon.
Crossing the Mexico-Guatemala border
Palenque -> Flores
I did the route in the opposite direction, but it shouldn’t make any difference; in any case, I recommend leaving early in the morning. I was told that from Palenque there are colectivos to Frontera Corozal only in the morning; if you miss them, no problem: take any colectivo heading south and ask to get off at this intersection. From here, there are taxis waiting to take you to the village.
Once you get to the village, go through immigration and then continue to the river, where small boats shuttle back and forth to La Tecnica for 40 pesos. From here, there are direct buses to Flores; the bus stops at immigration and waits for you while you get your passport stamped.
San Cristóbal de las Casas -> Quetzaltenango
I haven’t personally done this route, but you can find it described in detail here.
Take a look at my travel guide to Guatemala.
Crossing the Mexico-Belize border
Crossing the border is really easy: getting to Chetumal from any city in the Yucatan is simple, and from there, there are frequent departures to Belize City from the Mercado Nuevo Terminal (cheaper) or from the ADO terminal (more expensive, with less frequent departures).
N.B. You’ll be asked to pay the 717-peso tourist tax. The tax is legitimate, but some airlines include it in the ticket price, so you may not have to pay it: look through the price breakdown of your ticket and keep it as proof to show.
Suggested itineraries in Mexico
Below I list two-, three- and four-week itineraries. Obviously, there’s no perfect itinerary for a given amount of time, so, considering what you’ve read so far, take what follows as inspiration and adapt it to your interests/budget!
Mexico itinerary: 15 days in the Yucatan
Assuming your arrival airport is Cancun, I recommend moving straight on to Tulum the same day, unless it’s late at night.
Tulum (4 nights)
Day 1:
Cancun – Tulum transfer.
Day 2:
Visit the ruins of Tulum and spend the rest of the day at the beach.
Day 3:
Visit Akumal.
Day 4:
Visit the ruins of Cobá or some cenotes in the area.
Bacalar (2 nights)
Day 5:
Tulum – Bacalar transfer.
Day 6:
Full day at the lagoon.
Valladolid (3 nights)
Day 7:
Bacalar – Valladolid transfer.
Day 8:
Day at the Cenote at Hacienda San Lorenzo Oxman.
Day 9:
Visit Chichén Itzá in the morning and maybe cenote Zaci in the center of town when you get back.
Isla Holbox or Isla Mujeres (4 nights)
Day 10-11-12-13:
From Valladolid you can easily reach Holbox, or go back to Cancun and board the ferry to Isla Mujeres. Holbox is less touristy and less developed than Isla Mujeres, but I think both are great choices.
Day 14:
Return.
Central Mexico and Chiapas itinerary: 15 days
Assuming that your departure and arrival airport is Mexico City, I recommend the following itinerary.
Mexico City (2 nights)
Day 1:
Recover from the jet lag and maybe take a quick look around the historic center.
Day 2:
Visit the Pyramids of Teotihuacan.
Puebla (2 nights):
Day 3:
Transfer from Mexico City. Explore the historic center.
Day 4:
Visit the nearby city of Cholula.
Oaxaca (3 nights)
Day 5:
Transfer to Oaxaca, explore the historic center in the afternoon.
Day 6:
Visit Hierve el Agua.
Day 7:
Visit the ruins of Monte Alban. Night bus to San Cristobal.
San Cristóbal de las Casas (3 nights)
Day 8:
Enjoy the city and maybe visit San Juan Chamula in the afternoon.
Day 9:
Visit El Chiflón Falls.
Day 10:
Relaxing day in the city.
Palenque (2-3 nights)
Day 11:
Transfer to Palenque.
Day 12:
Visit the Agua Azul waterfall.
Day 13:
Visit the ruins of Palenque. By visiting the ruins in the morning you have plenty of time to take a bus to Villahermosa with ADO in the afternoon and then the evening flight to Mexico City with VivaAerobus, all of which is fairly inexpensive if booked in advance and will save you a long day on the bus.
Day 14:
Return from Mexico City.
If you want to spend a few days at the beach my advice is to skip Puebla and go to Zipolite from Oaxaca.
Mexico itinerary: 20 days
With three weeks available, I’d honestly still focus on one of the two regions (Central Mexico and Oaxaca, or the Yucatan Peninsula), following one of the two itineraries I’ve just described, maybe spending a few extra days in one of the destinations or adding one or two stops.
That said, if you have some destination in mind in both regions that you absolutely don’t want to miss, I recommend taking a look at domestic flights, since they’d save you a lot of time and generally aren’t too expensive.
One-month itinerary in Mexico
With a month available, you shouldn’t have any problem visiting both regions and seeing many of the destinations described in this guide. My advice is to combine the two two-week itineraries with an overnight bus from Merida to Palenque or vice versa, or with some domestic flights.
How to get around Mexico
Buses in Mexico
Buses and colectivos (minibuses/vans) are by far the cheapest and most popular way to travel within the country. In most of the destinations described in this guide, the company “ADO” operates, which is actually a collection of many different companies grouped under the same name.
They operate different types of more or less luxurious buses: the choice is yours. I’ve always traveled with the cheapest option and the buses have always been of a good standard. If bought a few days in advance, tickets are considerably cheaper.
Especially in the Yucatan, I noticed that second-class bus tickets tend not to be offered to tourists at the terminal; if you want to save a bit, just ask.
As for colectivos, they have fixed prices and really frequent departures on the routes they cover; generally they’re faster and cheaper than regular buses, and I strongly recommend them, especially for short and medium distances.
A colectivo station in Mexico.
Domestic flights in Mexico
Given the size of the country and the long journeys involved, it’s often worth considering some domestic flights, which luckily can be extremely cheap.
The two main low-cost airlines are: Volaris and VivaAerobus. I flew with VivaAerobus from Mexico City to Chetumal for about 30€. For the best fares, though, you need to book in advance.
Taxis in Mexico
In general, taxis are really cheap by European standards. Only some taxis use the meter (mostly in cities); others don’t, and in that case I recommend agreeing on the fare before getting in, so you avoid pointless arguments once you arrive at your destination. In some cities you can use Uber or Cabify.
Hitchhiking in Mexico
As in pretty much all Latin American countries, hitchhiking is really popular in rural areas and less so around big cities. In some cases the driver may expect a contribution toward expenses.
Backpacking Mexico: costs
How much does a trip to Mexico cost?
The cost of a trip to Mexico depends a lot on the type of activities you’re going to do and also on the region you visit. The Yucatan, for example, is one of the most expensive states in the country, while Chiapas is one of the cheapest; in any case, traveling on a budget, an independent traveler shouldn’t have any problem with a daily budget of about 30-40€ a day, and depending on the region you visit you can even get down to 20-25€.
Cost of food in Mexico
Food in Mexico isn’t only delicious but also really cheap. “Street food” is really part of Mexican culture, and even the smallest town has a little stand serving tacos, quesadillas and tortas at rock-bottom prices.
A taco is normally sold for 6-8 pesos a piece, but sometimes even less, and for some people 3 tacos make a meal, so you spend more or less 1 euro. In San Cristobal, in the main square, I found a lady selling three delicious chicken tamales for 10 pesos and single-course dishes like enchiladas or soups for 30-40 pesos! In short, if you stick to eating where the locals eat, or anyway in local restaurants, food is extremely cheap.
Traditional taqueria on the streets of Mexico.
Cost of transportation in Mexico
Transportation is really cheap, although long-distance buses can be relatively expensive compared to other Central American countries, especially if not booked in advance. If you have a well-defined itinerary, book in advance!
Finally, remember to take a look at domestic flights for long distances: if booked in advance and if you travel light with only carry-on luggage, they can be really cheap.
Cost of accommodation in Mexico
Accommodation prices vary a lot depending on the region, but expect to pay about 10€ for a dorm bed in the states of Chiapas and Oaxaca, while in the Yucatan and Mexico City it’s generally closer to 15€; breakfast is often included in the price.
To reduce exchange and withdrawal fees, see my guide to the best travel cards.
Backpacking Mexico: safety
Is Mexico safe? In my personal experience, absolutely yes.
Unfortunately, Mexico has been associated for years with drug trafficking and violent crimes, which are a reality. It has to be said that these issues are closely tied to specific areas and are very unlikely to interfere with tourism. Here you’ll find a really interesting map that shows how the typically touristy states are also the safest.
In any case, as in all developing countries (but not only!), you should use common sense: for example, walking the streets of Mexico City alone at night is certainly not recommended. That said, I got around the country using public transportation only and walking alone through the cities, even at not exactly advisable times, without ever having any kind of problem; follow my advice and you’ll see that everything will be fine.
Are you planning a trip to Mexico? Check out these posts:
Which travel backpack to choose
Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!
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