Mexico Travel Guide
This giant North American country covers about 2 million square kilometers and over 10,000 km of coastline. It is among the 10 most visited countries in the world and has something to offer for every taste: Caribbean beaches, mountains, deserts, ruins, colonial cities and much more.
I spent more than a month traveling backpacking in the interior of the country. In this guide you will find a lot of tips and information to better organize your trip.
Quick menu
- When to visit Mexico
- Documents and vaccinations to enter Mexico
- What to do and see Mexico
- Suggested itineraries in Mexico
- How to get around Mexico
- Backpacking Mexico: costs
- Backpacking Mexico: safety
The Pyramids of Teotihuacan near Mexico City.
When to visit Mexico
Summer in Mexico, from June to October, is theoretically the rainy season, but rainfall varies significantly by region.
In the central part of the country, the rainy season is most pronounced, with daily rainfall typically concentrated within a few hours in the afternoon. Chiapas is the state with the highest rainfall. Along the coast, rainfall is less frequent but accompanied by high humidity, whereas in the north, it rains very little.
September and October are hurricane season. Along the coasts, rainfall is more frequent, and there is a possibility of encountering tropical storms.
November marks the beginning of the dry season and is probably the best month to explore the country since the rains have just ended, the vegetation is lush, and the high season has not yet begun. From December to April, the weather is excellent and coincides with the high tourist season, especially in Yucatan.
That said, Mexico can be safely visited year-round. Personally, I was there at the turn of September and October, during hurricane season. It often rained in the afternoon, but only for a few hours, and it was never a major issue.
Sunrise in Bacalar.
Documents and vaccinations to enter Mexico
Most passport holders receive a 180-day tourist visa once they enter the country.
The visa is free but there is a 717 MXN tourist tax that must be paid when leaving the country. Some airlines include it in the cost of the ticket. I entered by land from Guatemala and had to pay it. Keep the receipt.
There are no mandatory vaccinations required to enter Mexico, but Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B are recommended.
Waterfall in the forest near the ruins of Palenque.
What to do and see Mexico
When planning a trip to Mexico, a country larger than all the Central American countries combined, it’s evident that one would need months, if not years, to explore it entirely.
The classic Mexico travel itinerary typically runs from Mexico City to the Yucatan Peninsula. This route is easy to follow and can be combined with trips to neighboring Guatemala and Belize. This guide focuses on these areas, which I believe offer a good balance between beaches, cities, and ruins, blending nature and culture.
Prices in this guide are expressed in the local currency. The official currency in Mexico is the Mexican Peso, abbreviated as “MXN” or simply “P.”
At the time of publication, the exchange rate is 1€ = 20 MXN. For the current exchange rate, I suggest checking this page.
Mexico City
The capital, with its 10 million inhabitants, exceeds 20 if the entire metropolitan area is considered. Many of the districts that make up the city are sketchy and generally do not have much to offer in the way of tourism, but the heart of the city is truly fascinating and worth a visit.
What to do and see in Mexico City
In the city center, and particularly in the area around the Zócalo which is the main square (Google Maps), there are a lot of historic buildings, churches and museums. Among the museums I recommend the anthropology museum (Google Maps), one of the best in the world, or the Frida Kahlo museum (Google Maps), which I did not personally visit, however.
A couple of blocks from the main square we find La Lagunilla (Google Maps), a huge market that is definitely worth a visit, if you feel like you can join a free walking tour.
The Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.
Pyramids of Teotihuacan
The Pyramids of Teotihuacan (Google Maps) also known as the “City of the Gods,” is an archaeological site located 40 km north of Mexico City. It features some of the largest pyramids in the world, built by what was once the largest pre-Columbian civilization, with a population of up to 150,000 people.
The site is truly impressive and deserves at least half a day to explore. It can be easily reached by bus from the Terminal Autobuses del Norte (located along Metro line 5, Google Maps). Buses depart every 20 minutes from Puerta 8, the one-way fare is 60 MXN.
Entrance to the archaeological park costs 80 MXN and includes access to the museum. I recommend visiting in the morning due to the extensive walking and the site being completely exposed to the sun. You can climb to the top of the pyramids, so it’s best to avoid the hottest hours of the day.
Note: Once your visit is over, there is no need to return to the main entrance. It is better to exit from “puerta 3,” where the same buses run every 20 minutes or so back to Mexico City.
Pyramid of the sun at Teotihuacan.
Where to sleep in Mexico City?
Mexico City Hostel is a good hostel. Quiet atmosphere and great location, literally steps away from the Zócalo.
How to reach Mexico City?
For short and long distances there are direct buses to many destinations. For longer trips I recommend looking at domestic flights which in some cases are really cheap. From all bus terminals, and also from the airport, you have direct access to the subway, which is cheap and efficient.
Puebla
Puebla was the first city in central Mexico that was not founded by the Spanish over the ruins of some ancient settlement. During the colonial period, due to its strategic location between Veracruz and Mexico City, it was the second most important city. One can still see what were the splendors of the past.
What to do and see in Puebla
The Zócalo (Google Maps) became a UNESCO site in 1987, well-preserved colonial buildings everywhere and an impressive cathedral especially in the evening when it is lit up. It is definitely worthwhile walking around the adjacent streets as well.
I also went up to “Los Fuertes” (Fuerte de Loreto and Fuerte de Guadalupe) at the top of Cerro de Guadalupe, which overlooks the city. It was a pleasant walk, with a nice park at the top and a great view (Google Maps). You can also visit the forts.
Puebla cathedral.
Cholula
Cholula is a city located only 10 km from Puebla. The town boasts 45 churches and an archaeological site (Google Maps), although I did not find it particularly impressive. The symbol of the city is the cathedral built atop the Tepanapa pyramid, the largest pyramid in the world in terms of volume.
Unfortunately, during my visit, access to the top of the pyramid and cathedral was closed due to a recent earthquake, but this may have changed since then. However, it was still possible to visit the tunnels under the pyramid, the surrounding archaeological area, and the museum (Google Maps). During my visit, the museum was showing a 3-D video of various archaeological sites in Mexico. Admission to the site, which includes the museum, is 85 pesos.
I visited Cholula from Puebla on a day trip, so I can’t speak from personal experience about the nightlife, but I was told it is great, as it is mostly a university town. From downtown Puebla, it is best to take the bus (Google Maps), it’s about a 20-30 minute ride and costs 7.50 pesos.
The cathedral at the top of the Cholula pyramid.
Cuexcomate
It is the world’s smallest volcano and is located in one of Puebla’s suburbs (Google Maps), just off La Libertad. It is nothing spectacular but it is a nice way to spend a couple of hours. Take a bus along Avenida 11 oriente bound for Libertad and get off at the main plaza, which is also the last bus stop. The volcano is in the center of the square.
How to get to Puebla?
The city is only two hours from Mexico City and there are buses about every 20 minutes departing from Terminal TAPO (also known as Terminal de Oriente, San Lazaro metro stop, Google Maps) but also from Benito Juarez Airport and Terminal del Norte from where, however, departures are less frequent, it is 2 hours about 160-200 MXN.
Where to sleep in Puebla?
Hostal Casa De Arcos is an excellent hostel, really well taken care of a stone’s throw from downtown, large and spacious dorms, and a relaxed atmosphere.
Oaxaca
Oaxaca was undoubtedly my favorite city during my trip to Mexico. Its streets have a really relaxed atmosphere but at the same time there is always something interesting to see: some street performer, demonstration or, if you are lucky like me, even a rather unique wedding.
Wedding celebrations.
What to do and see in Oaxaca
As always, the area around the Zócalo (Google Maps) is the liveliest area of the city and you will find the most interesting colonial buildings, also check out the nearby Mercado Benito Juarez (Google Maps). While a few blocks further north, don’t miss the Ex Convento de Santo Domingo (Google Maps), which can be visited every day except Mondays from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. and costs 90 MXN.
Another site I particularly enjoyed was the botanical garden that is also part of the former convent. To visit it you have to join the guided tour but it was really interesting and I recommend it. The tour is offered three times a day in Spanish and in other languages on alternate days. The tour in Spanish costs 50 MXN versus 100 MXN for the other languages, at the bottom of this page you will find the schedule.
Mount Alban
I will preface this by saying that I did not visit the site as I was coming from almost a year of travel and countless archaeological sites but it is said to be one of the most impressive in the region (Google Maps).
There are numerous tours that leave from Oaxaca but if you want to visit the site on your own you can simply take a shuttle from Hotel Riviera de Angel (Google Maps) for 80 MXN. Site admission costs 80 MXN.
Monte Alban ruins.
Hierve el Agua
This is a surreal place, a spring of water at an elevation of 3,000 meters that has formed a series of natural pools culminating in a giant petrified waterfall all topped with spectacular views of the valley.
Unfortunately, the place loses some of its charm due to the heavy tourist presence and all that goes with it, but it is still something unique.
The site is about 2 hours from the city and can also be reached by public transportation, from the baseball stadium take a bus to Mitla (18 pesos, 1 hour) from where there are then camionetas to Hierva el Agua, 40 pesos.
Hierve el Agua.
Where to sleep in Oaxaca?
Hostal de Las Américas excellent hostel a short walk from downtown, helpful staff.
How to reach Oaxaca?
From Mexico City but also from nearby Puebla there are numerous departures per day, about 6-7 hours. Coming from San Cristobal take a look at the ADO website, it is about 11 hours.
Puerto Escondido
Famous Puerto Escondido is known for its excellent surfing conditions and great nightlife. Once a quiet fishing village it can now be considered the classic “tourist trap” with prices significantly higher than in the rest of the country and extremely crowded. If you are interested anyways, here you can find a guide to Puerto Escondido’s beaches.
If you are looking for a more relaxed and authentic atmosphere I recommend a few towns further south along the coast, such as Zipolite.
How to reach Puerto Escondido?
There are numerous direct buses leaving from Mexico City and Oaxaca. Check out Ado.
Zipolite
Zipolite is a destination that is growing in popularity especially among backpackers; it is the ideal place for anyone looking for a seaside village with a relaxed atmosphere, uncrowded beach and really cheap prices.
There is not much to do in the village except enjoy the beach perhaps with good company or a good book. Surfing is also possible.
Zipolite, the water is so dirty because of the heavy rains.
Where to sleep in Zipolite?
I slept at “El Carrizal Hostel” with a very hippie atmosphere and not exactly the best of cleanliness but extremely cheap at only 50 pesos a night. The French lady who owns the facility is a real character. The hostel is probably not for everyone but there are plenty of other options however cheap (it was closed in November 2023). Check out Maracuyá Hostal Zipolite.
How to reach Zipolite?
Ado has several buses (even at night) to nearby Pochutla (9-10 hours) from where there are then collectivos to Zipolite, about half an hour. The quicker and cheaper but less convenient alternative is to take one of the minibusses that shuttle during the day between Pochutla and Oaxaca; it is about 7 hours.
San Cristóbal de las Casas
San Cristóbal is a charming colonial town in the heart of the mountains of the state of Chiapas. The city itself with its colonial buildings and the many churches and plazas is undoubtedly the main attraction. But one can also visit numerous villages where Mayan culture and tradition are still strong.
What to do and see in San Cristóbal de las Casas
As mentioned above, the city alone deserves at least a day of exploration; I recommend climbing the steps leading up to the Iglesia de Guadalupe or Iglesia Antonio. From both you have good views of the city.
Mirador Iglesia Antonio.
San Juan Chamula
Of all the Mayan villages surrounding the city, San Juan Chamula is undoubtedly the most visited. Here you will find a church where Catholic and Mayan rites have mixed over the years in a very unique way (Google Maps). The church is literally covered with candles and offerings to the gods are made all the time; I have not seen it but I was told that sometimes animal sacrifices are also made.
Admission to the church costs 10 pesos if I am not mistaken, and you are not allowed to take photos or videos, an interesting experience to say the least. There is not much else to do in the village but you could check out the market (Google Maps) or the nearby cemetery (Google Maps), which is not exactly a traditional one. The village is only 20 minutes from San CristobaI, collectivos leave from a microbus station near the main market (location), 20 pesos.
San Juan Chamula cemetery.
El Chiflón
This is a series of truly impressive waterfalls and natural pools (Google Maps). As always you can join a tour, which normally includes a visit to the Montebello Lakes, or rely on public transportation as I explain below.
Take a bus (Google Maps) or collectivo (Google Maps) direct to Comitán, about 2 hours (collectivos are faster and cheaper), from the Comitán terminal (Google Maps) about 3 blocks away you can find shuttles to El Chiflón, about 40 minutes, 40 pesos (Google Maps). Admission to falls costs 80 pesos. The trail is really short, but the view of the main waterfall “Velo de la Novia” is really spectacular.
El Chiflon.
Sumidero Canyon
I have not personally visited the canyon, but it is a popular attraction. In some places, it exceeds one kilometer in depth. The tour typically involves a walk to the base of the canyon followed by a boat ride along the river that runs through it. Here you can actually find a guide of some travelers who managed to visit it on their own.
Where to sleep in San Cristóbal de las Casas?
Hostel el Mirador is a short walk from the Guadalupe Church I mentioned earlier. There is a nice indoor garden and a great breakfast included in the price. It is slightly off center.
How to reach San Cristóbal de las Casas?
There are direct buses to and from almost every possible destination, know that to Palenque the collectivos are faster and cheaper than the buses, you have to change at Ocosingo but it is a matter of a few minutes.
If you are arriving or continuing on to Guatemala and do not want to take the tourist shuttles (much more expensive) take first the colectivo bound for Comitan (same for El Chiflón) from here there are then other collectivos bound for the “Ciudad Cuauhtémoc” border. A detailed article on how to continue to Quetzaltenango can be found here.
San Cristobal.
Palenque
Palenque is both the name of the town and of the famous ruins, about 6km from the center. The town is honestly nothing much although the area around the main plaza is not that bad, in any case I recommend settling just outside the ruins at “El Panchan” which I will discuss in detail in the “where to sleep” section.
What to do and see in Palenque
Obviously the ruins are the main attraction, but Palenque is also an excellent base for exploring other sites not too far away.
The ruins of Palenque
If you are staying in town, be aware that there are colectivos shuttling every 10-15 minutes, which are convenient and efficient, costing 25 pesos (Google Maps). There are two entrances to the ruins. I strongly recommend taking the secondary one just after the museum (Google Maps), about 1.5 km before the main entrance. This route includes a short path through the jungle with a small waterfall (Google Maps) along the way.
The ruins are definitely worthwhile. If you visit early in the morning (the site opens at 8:00 am), they are not too crowded. Only the central acropolis has been excavated, so the site is not very large; a couple of hours should be enough to explore it. Entrance to the site costs 90 pesos, and there is an additional entrance fee to the national park of 105 pesos.
Palenque.
Agua Azul
This is a series of waterfalls somewhat similar to El Chiflón. You can easily visit them in a day from Palenque or if you travel light you could combine the visit with a transfer to San Cristobal or vice versa.
The falls are in fact located along the road to Ocosingo so you can simply take a colectivo headed there (Google Maps). Get off here and then take one of the many colectivos that shuttle to the falls for 30 pesos. You could also walk this last stretch. The entrance fee is 40 pesos.
Finally, it is possible to visit the nearby ruins of Yaxchilan (Google Maps). I have not personally been there, as even without relying on a tour, it is still relatively expensive to reach. The ruins cannot be accessed by land; you have to take a boat from Frontera Corozal for about 40 minutes, with costs ranging from 800 MXN. It might be more worthwhile if you are in a group. Based on the photos, the ruins do not look particularly impressive.
Agua Azul.
Where to sleep in Palenque?
As previously mentioned, I recommend staying at “El Panchan,” a complex of various hotel facilities and some restaurants, literally nestled in the jungle at the entrance to the national park, just a stone’s throw from the ruins.
I personally recommend staying at Jungle Palace. They offer affordable cabanas (small bungalows). While not luxurious, they are definitely a good option. There are other nearby options as well. There’s a really nice lady who runs a small “restaurant” just outside the facility. The food is cheap, but you may need to remind her that you are not a rich gringo.
How to reach Palenque?
From San Cristobal there are frequent buses, but remember that collectivos via Ocosingo are faster and cheaper. Toward the Yucatan Peninsula, the only direct connections are to Merida with ADO. If you continue on to Guatemala, however, you can cross the border at Frontera Corozal as described in detail in the guide dedicated to Guatemala.
The Yucatán Peninsula
The Yucatán Peninsula is undoubtedly the most touristy and expensive region in the country, especially along the so-called “Mayan Riviera,” where places like Cancun and Playa del Carmen are filled with resorts and have been extremely popular with North American tourists for years.
Nevertheless, there are many destinations that are definitely worth visiting.
Cancun
Let’s start with the main hub of the peninsula, Cancun. Long story short, it’s not a place I would recommend unless you are looking for an all-inclusive vacation at a hotel or resort by the sea. If you’re reading this guide, that’s probably not your aim!
In my opinion, Cancun can be described as a giant playground for Americans who flock there, especially during school vacations. However, if you’re looking for a few days of beach time and nightlife, it might not be that bad. Still, my advice is to move on to other destinations.
Cancun on the horizon seen from Isla Mujeres in the company of some of the guys from the hostel.
Where to sleep in Cancun?
The Boat House Cancun is a great hostel within walking distance of the bus station so it is ideal for spending a night before reaching your next destination.
Isla Mujeres
Isla Mujeres, located just opposite Cancun, was the last stop on my long trip to Latin America, making my days there particularly memorable.
The beaches on the island are wonderful and, despite the short distance from Cancun, are much less crowded than those on the mainland. I visited in late October, and the island was extremely livable—though it may be different during peak season. In any case, Isla Mujeres is better than Cancun in every respect.
There’s not much to do on the island except relax on the beach. I rented a golf cart with some people from the hostel to explore the southern part of the island, where there are some “ruins.” It was a nice day, but honestly, you wouldn’t miss much if you skipped it.
Where to sleep in Isla Mujeres?
Mayan Monkey Isla Mujeres is one of the few hostels on the island, nice but not exactly cheap.
How to reach Isla Mujeres?
There are at least a few companies that cover the route and depart from three different points in Cancun. By far the cheapest ferry is the one that leaves Punta Sam (Google Maps), it is the ferry that also carries vehicles so it is slower than the others but cheaper. You can find the schedule here. The faster but more expensive option is Ultramar. To reach Punta Sam there are collectivos that pass along the road in front of the bus terminal.
Isla Mujeres.
Playa del Carmen
Playa del Carmen is the first tourist destination south of Cancun. While I haven’t been there personally, everyone I’ve spoken to has described it as a miniature Cancun. Wikitravel even calls it a “resort town.”
If you’re looking for a destination with nice beaches and great nightlife for your trip, Playa del Carmen is probably a good choice. However, if you’re seeking something more authentic and inexpensive, you might want to look elsewhere.
How to get to Playa del Carmen?
From Cancun, there are colectivos that run frequently (Google Maps). The trip takes about 45 minutes.
Cozumel
Cozumel is the island opposite Playa del Carmen. I haven’t been there either, but only due to time constraints. From what I’ve read and heard from other travelers, the island is truly amazing.
Cozumel is considered one of the best diving sites in the world, which is undoubtedly the main activity there. The main settlement is the village of San Miguel on the west side of the island. Renting a car or scooter is recommended to explore the undeveloped east side, where breathtaking beaches dominate the landscape.
There are also some archaeological sites, but they are not as impressive as others found in Yucatan.
How to reach Cozumel?
Departing from Playa del Carmen there are ferries about every hour. The trip takes 35-40 minutes and is offered by two companies, Ultramar as always is the most expensive, the cheaper alternative is Mexico Waterjets.
Tulum
Tulum, in my opinion, is the best destination along the so-called “Mayan Riviera.” It offers a more relaxed atmosphere, more reasonable prices than Cancun and Playa del Carmen, and fantastic beaches. Additionally, Tulum serves as an ideal base for exploring the nearby ruins of Tulum and Cobá, as well as numerous cenotes (freshwater caves).
What to do and see in Tulum
The town is tiny and not particularly active during the day but in the evening people take to the streets and everything comes alive, there are a few clubs but if you are looking for a more authentic atmosphere I recommend this square or even Parque dos Aguas, where I caught a concert in the evening. Eat at least once at Antojitos, delicious food and extremely cheap.
The ruins of Tulum
The ruins (Google Maps) are certainly not the most impressive to be seen, but the context in which they are set makes them unique. In fact, the site is located on a cliff overlooking the crystal clear sea and white beaches.
The ruins are extremely popular, which is why I recommend visiting them early in the morning before the buses full of tourists from Playa del Carmen and Cancun arrive. The site opens at 8:00 am.
The entrance to the ruins is easily accessible by any colectivo heading north as the entrance is only a kilometer from the main road. If you wanted you could even walk or bike there, it is in fact about 4km from the center. The entrance to the ruins costs 95 pesos.
The ruins of Tulum.
Akumal
Akumal is a small town between Playa del Carmen and Tulum, famous for the seaweed that grows in the main bay, which attracts hundreds of sea turtles (Google Maps).
To protect the turtles, it’s compulsory to wear a life jacket in the water, which prevents diving and disturbing them. There are designated areas for snorkeling, while other areas are off-limits. Equipment can be easily rented on the beach. There is a 120 pesos entrance fee.
To reach Akumal, simply take any collectivo heading north. The beach is less than 1 km from the main road.
Akumal.
The ruins of Cobá
The ruins at Cobá (Google Maps) are definitely not the most impressive in the region, but they do feature “El Castillo,” a very tall temple and one of the few that you can still climb. From the top, you get incredible views of the surrounding jungle.
The ruins can be easily reached by colectivo from Tulum (Google Maps), which takes about an hour. Admission costs 95 pesos.
El Castillo, Cobá.
The cenotes
There are literally hundreds of them in the region, the most popular ones can be extremely expensive, Dos Ojos (Google Maps) for example costs a whopping 400 MXN. In many cenotes you can go diving or just snorkeling.
I personally in Tulum have only visited Cenote Calavera (Google Maps) which did not particularly excite me, Gran Cenote (Google Maps) not far away seems to be a favorite of many. Here you will find reviews and photos of some Cenotes.
Where to sleep in Tulum?
Maui Hostels Tulum is a good hostel not far from the center.
How to reach Tulum?
There are buses and collectivos frequently shuttling along the coast to Playa del Carmen and Cancun in the north but also to Bacalar in the south and Valladolid in the east. Collectivos stop here (Google Maps).
Calavera Cenote.
Valladolid
Valladolid is a small town in the center of the Yucatán Peninsula that pleasantly surprised me. The center features many well-preserved colonial buildings, and the atmosphere is markedly more authentic than any other town I visited in Yucatán.
It is also an ideal base for visiting the nearby ruins of Chichén Itzá while avoiding the hordes of tourists arriving in the late morning from Cancun and Playa del Carmen.
What to Do and See in Valladolid
Valladolid is really small and can easily be explored on foot, although I recommend renting a bike for a day to also explore the nearby cenote that I will now discuss.
Cenote in Hacienda San Lorenzo Oxman
This cenote (Google Maps) is a good alternative to the more popular Cenote Zaci (Google Maps), which is located exactly in the center of town. It can be reached by taxi (about 70 pesos) or by renting a bike for about 80 pesos; it is only 5 km from the town center.
The cenote is really cool, with lots of roots running down the walls until they touch the water, and best of all, it is really uncrowded. Inside the property, there is a nice pool. When I was there, it was possible to pay for cenote entrance only (30 pesos), but now there are only two types of tickets: access to the pool and cenote for 150 pesos, or 300 pesos with food and drink at the bar.
Hacienda San Lorenzo Cenote.
Chichén Itzá
The famous ruins, considered one of the 7 Wonders of the Modern World, are undoubtedly the most visited in the entire region and are literally overrun by day-trippers especially from Cancun and Playa del Carmen.
Valladolid which is only a 45-minute bus ride away is an ideal base for exploring the ruins before the crowds arrive. I recommend taking the first 7:00 a.m. collectivo (they leave at the intersection of Calle 46 and Calle 39 at this point) so that you arrive at the entrance in time for the 8:00 a.m. opening. Entrance to the site is now 614 pesos which is a lot. I’m not sure it’s worth it anymore.
In conclusion, if you do not want to join an organized tour to visit Las Coloradas, the best place to start is Valladolid. In this post you will find precise instructions on how to reach them by public transportation.
Chichen Itza.
Where to sleep in Valladolid?
Hostal Tunich Naj is well located, walking distance from downtown and the bus station, nice staff.
How to reach Valladolid?
From the bus station (Google Maps) there are several daily departures to all major cities on the Peninsula.
Holbox Island
I did not personally visit the island due to bad weather forecasts, but it was highly recommended by many travelers. It is less crowded compared to the more popular Isla Mujeres and Cozumel.
The best way to reach it is from Valladolid and Cancun via the town of Chiquilá, from where ferries depart about every half hour during the day. For more detailed information, you can find an article about it here.
Holbox island.
Merida
Mérida, the capital of Yucatán, was the first city “founded” by the conquistadors. The city preserves many colonial buildings, and the historic center is truly beautiful.
While there isn’t a single standout attraction, the charm of Mérida lies in the city itself. However, there are a few places that are undoubtedly worth visiting: Plaza de la Independencia (Google Maps), the main square where there is always some event in the evening (find upcoming events here), Palacio del Gobierno (Google Maps) and the Cathedral (Google Maps). There is also a tour of the 3 cenotes area. You can find a detailed post here.
Where to sleep in Merida?
Hostal Catedral Merida is a good hostel in downtown Merida.
How to reach Merida?
Merida is a fairly large city and has direct connections to all the major cities on the peninsula, even Palenque. The bus terminal is close to the center (Google Maps).
Campeche
I have not personally been there, but it is another well-preserved colonial town still relatively untouched by mass tourism along the Mayan Riviera. The historic center, characterized by cobblestone streets and brightly colored buildings, was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999.
For more detailed information, you can find an excellent article discussing the city here.
How to reach Campeche?
The most practical and fastest way to reach Campeche is from nearby Merida, which is only 2 hours away and has buses that run back and forth every hour or so. But there are also direct buses from Ciudad del Carmen and Cancun, although less frequent.
Bacalar
Bacalar, and more specifically the lagoon of the same name, is an incredible place to say the least, a true gem fortunately still little visited by vacationers who often stay further north along the coast.
What to do and see in Bacalar
Without a doubt, the main attraction here is the Bacalar Lagoon, also known as the “Laguna de los 7 Colores” for its incredible shades of blue and azure.
You can also visit a small fort (Google Maps) near the town square, though, honestly, it doesn’t look like much from the outside.
N.b. From the village, access to the lagoon is not easy as it is full of private properties/hotels/hostels but there is a municipal pier from where you have access.
Where to sleep in Bacalar?
Yaxche Hostel isn’t particularly remarkable and is not located directly on the lagoon like many other facilities. However, it has another property outside of town, with a free shuttle service provided daily. This area is well-equipped with swings in the water, gazebos, a small bar/restaurant, and a few rooms. The water here is much cleaner, and being outside the town gives the feeling of being in a remote paradise.
How to reach Bacalar?
From the north (Tulum, Playa del Carmen, and Cancun) there are several daily departures with ADO or MAYAB (cheaper) but there are also colectivos that go through Felipe Carrillo Puerto where you have to change. From Chetumal to the south the most convenient method is the shared taxis that leave from this point.
Laguna Bacalar.
Crossing the border Mexico Guatemala
Palenque -> Flores
I took the route in the opposite direction, but it should make no difference. In any case, I recommend leaving early in the morning. From Palenque, I was told that there are colectivos heading to Frontera Corozal only in the morning. If not, take any colectivo heading south and ask to get off at the intersection for Frontera Corozal. From there, taxis are available to take you to the village.
Once in the village, go through immigration and then continue to the river where small boats shuttle to La Técnica. From there, direct buses to Flores are available. The bus stops at immigration and waits for you to stamp your passport.
San Cristóbal de las Casas -> Quetzaltenango
I have not personally done this route but you can find it described in detail here.
Crossing the border Mexico Belize
Crossing the border is really easy. Reaching Chetumal from any city in Yucatán is simple, and from there, frequent departures to Belize City are available from the Mercado Nuevo Terminal (cheaper) or the ADO Terminal (more expensive with less frequent departures).
Note: You will be asked to pay a tourist tax of 717 pesos. This tax is legitimate, but some airlines include it in the cost of your ticket, so you may not have to pay it. Check the details of your ticket cost and keep the receipt as proof to show.
Suggested itineraries in Mexico
Below, I have listed two-, three-, and four-week itineraries. Obviously, there is no perfect itinerary given a specific time frame, so consider what you have read so far as inspiration and modify it according to your interests and budget!
Itinerary Mexico 15 days in the Yucatan
Assuming your arrival airport is Cancun, I recommend moving directly to Tulum the same day, at least as long as it is not late at night.
Tulum (4 nights)
Day 1:
Cancun – Tulum transfer.
Day 2:
Visit the ruins of Tulum and spend the rest of the day at the beach.
Day 3:
Visit Akumal.
Day 4:
Visit the ruins of Cobá or some cenotes in the area.
Bacalar (2 nights)
Day 5:
Tulum – Bacalar transfer.
Day 6:
Full day at the lagoon.
Valladolid (3 nights)
Day 7:
Bacalar – Valladolid transfer.
Day 8:
Day at the Cenote at Hacienda San Lorenzo Oxman.
Day 9:
Visit Chichén Itzá in the morning and perhaps cenote Zaci in the center of town in the afternoon.
Isla Holbox or Isla Mujeres (4 nights)
Day 10-11-12-13:
From Valladolid you can easily reach Holbox or return to Cancun and board the ferry to Isla Mujeres. Holbox is less touristy and developed as opposed to Isla Mujeres but I think both are good choices.
Day 14:
Return.
Itinerary Central Mexico and Chiapas 15 days
Assuming that your departure and arrival airport is Mexico City I recommend the following itinerary.
Mexico City (2 nights)
Day 1:
Recover from the jet leg and explore the historic center.
Day 2:
Visit the Pyramids of Teotihuacan.
Puebla (2 nights):
Day 3:
Transfer from Mexico City. Explore the historic center.
Day 4:
Visit the nearby city of Cholula.
Oaxaca (3 nights)
Day 5:
Transfer to Oaxaca, explore the historic center in the afternoon.
Day 6:
Visit Hierva el Agua.
Day 7:
Visit the ruins of Monte Alban. Night bus to San Cristobal.
San Cristóbal de las Casas (3 nights)
Day 8:
Enjoy the city and maybe visit San Juan Chamula in the afternoon.
Day 9:
Visit El Chiflón Falls.
Day 10:
Relaxing day in the city.
Palenque(2-3 nights)
Day 11:
Transfer to Palenque.
Day 12:
Visit the Agua Azul waterfall.
Day 13:
Visit the ruins of Palenque. By visiting the ruins in the morning you have plenty of time to take a bus to Villahermosa with ADO in the afternoon and then the evening flight to Mexico City with VivaAerobus, all of which is quite inexpensive if booked in advance and will save you a long day on the bus.
Day 14:
Return from Mexico City.
If you want to spend a few days at the beach my advice is to skip Puebla and go to Zipolite from Oaxaca.
Itinerary Mexico 20 days
With three weeks to spare I would honestly still focus on one of the two regions (Central Mexico and Oaxaca or Yucatan Peninsula) thus following one of the two itineraries just described, perhaps spending a few extra days in one of the destinations or adding one/two stops.
Having said that, if you have any destinations in mind that you definitely don’t want to miss in either region, I suggest you take a look at domestic flights as they would save you a lot of time and are generally not too expensive.
One-month itinerary in Mexico
With a month to spare, you should have no problem visiting both regions touching many of the destinations described in this guide. My advice is to combine the two two-week itineraries with an overnight bus from Merida to Palenque or vice versa or with some internal flights.
How to get around Mexico
Buses in Mexico
Buses and colectivos (minibuses/vans) are by far the cheapest and most popular way to travel within the country. In most of the destinations described in this guide, the company “ADO” operates, which is actually a collection of many different companies grouped under the same name.
They operate different types of more or less luxurious buses, the choice is yours. I have always traveled with the cheapest option and the buses have always been of a good standard. If bought a few days in advance, tickets are considerably cheaper.
Especially in Yucatan I have noticed that second class bus tickets tend not to be offered to tourists at the terminal, if you want to save some money, just ask.
As for colectivos, the latter have fixed prices and for the routes they cover have really frequent departures, in general they are faster and cheaper than regular buses and I strongly recommend them especially for short and medium distances.
Collectivos.
Domestic flights in Mexico
Given the size of the country and the long travels involved, it is often worth considering some domestic flights, which fortunately can be extremely cheap.
The two main low-cost airlines are: Volaris and VivaAerobus. I flew with VivaAerobus from Mexico City to Chetumal for about €30. However, for the best fares you need to book in advance.
Taxis in Mexico
In general, taxis in Mexico are quite affordable compared to European standards. Some taxis use meters, especially in cities, while others do not. In cases where meters are not used, I recommend agreeing on the fare before boarding to avoid any disputes upon arrival at your destination.
In some cities, alternatives like Uber or Cabify are available, providing additional options for transportation.
Hitchhiking in Mexico
As somewhat in all Latin American countries, hitchhiking is really popular in rural areas and less so around large cities. In some cases the driver may expect to get some money.
Backpacking Mexico: costs
How much does a trip to Mexico cost?
The cost of a trip to Mexico depends a lot on the type of activities you are going to do and also on the region visited. Yucatan for example is one of the most expensive states in the country, while Chiapas one of the cheapest, in any case traveling low cost the independent traveler should have no problem with a daily budget of about 30-40€ per day.
Cost of transportation in Mexico
Transportation is really cheap although long-distance buses can be relatively expensive compared to other Central American countries especially if not booked in advance. If you have a well-defined itinerary, book in advance!
Finally, remember to consider domestic flights as well. These can be very affordable if booked in advance, especially if you travel light and only have carry-on luggage.
Taqueria.
Cost of accommodation in Mexico
Lodging prices vary widely by region but expect to pay about 10€ for a dormitory bed in the states of Chiapas and Oaxaca while in Yucatan and Mexico City we are generally closer to 15€. Breakfast is often included in the price.
Cost of Food in Mexico
Food in Mexico is not only delicious but also very cheap. “Street food” is really part of Mexican culture and even the smallest town has a small stand serving tacos, quesadillas and tortas at bargain prices.
A taco is normally sold for about 10 pesos a piece but sometimes even less and for some people 3 tacos make a meal. In San Cristobal in the main square I found a lady selling three delicious chicken tamales for 10 pesos and unique dishes like enchiladas or soups for 30-40 pesos! In short if you just eat where the locals eat or at least in local restaurants the food is extremely cheap.
Backpacking Mexico: safety
Is Mexico safe? In my personal experience, absolutely yes.
Unfortunately, Mexico has been associated for years with drug trafficking and violent crimes, which are a reality. It has to be said that these issues are closely linked to certain areas and very unlikely to interfere with tourism. Here you will find a really interesting map that shows how typically tourist states are also the safest.
In any case, as in all developing countries (but not only!) common sense should be used and for example walking through the streets of Mexico City alone at night is certainly not recommended, having said that, I have been around the country using exclusively public transportation and walking alone through the cities even at times that are not really advisable without ever having any kind of problem, just follow my advice and you will be fine.
Are you planning a trip to Mexico? Check out these posts:
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