Morocco Travel Guide
Morocco is an affordable and accessible destination, perfect for anyone who wants an introduction to the Arab-Islamic world just a stone’s throw from the old continent.
The lively markets, architecture, quaint old towns but also the variety of landscapes—from the beaches to the Sahara Desert via the High Atlas Mountains, with peaks of more than 4,000 meters—make Morocco a truly interesting destination.
I spent six weeks backpacking around the country (you can find the video of my trip here, in Italian, but you can turn on the subtitles). Whether you want to do the same or just do some research and then rely on an organized tour, in this guide you’ll find lots of useful tips and information to help you plan your trip as best you can.
Quick menu
- When to visit Morocco
- Documents and vaccinations to enter Morocco
- What to do and see in Morocco
- Suggested itineraries in Morocco
- How to get around Morocco
- Backpacking Morocco: costs
- Backpacking Morocco: safety
In the streets of Chefchaouen.
When to visit Morocco
The best times to visit Morocco are spring (April and May) and autumn (September and October). During these months, temperatures are mostly pleasant in all parts of the country, which is ideal for those planning a touring trip.
In the peak of summer (July and August) most of Morocco, especially the south and the interior of the country, experiences very high daytime temperatures. Visiting cities like Marrakech, Fes, or even worse the Sahara Desert, isn’t a good idea. To give you an idea, during my trip, in mid-April, I had temperatures over 30 degrees in Fez, and a few weeks later, in early May, temperatures in Marrakech were close to 40 degrees.
Summer can potentially be an option for destinations along the coast or in the north of the country, while in winter the weather in the south isn’t that bad but along the coast and in the north in addition to being relatively cold, it’s rainy.
Finally, it’s good to remember that in Morocco, being an Islamic country, most of the population practices Ramadan (dates change every year, see the link to see when it falls in the current year). Many people are scared of traveling during the holy month, but the reality is that the impact on the average traveler is minimal. If you limit yourself to large cities or tourist destinations in general, finding open restaurants where you can eat is a given and transportation continues to operate as normal. I spent two weeks traveling in the middle of Ramadan without having any kind of problem. The only exception is perhaps being able to buy food early in the morning since most stores not directly related to tourism tend to open after 10:00. In this case I recommend shopping the day before. Another date to keep in mind is Eid al-fitr, a really important holiday that marks the end of Ramadan. During this day many businesses are closed and even getting around could be difficult.
Koutoubia Mosque, Marrakech.
Documents and vaccinations to enter Morocco
With an Italian passport (valid for more than 6 months) you get a free tourist visa for 90 days from the moment you enter the country (the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours). Entering without a passport, i.e. with just your ID card, is only possible if you arrive on a group trip organized by a tour operator.
In case you’re interested in renewing your visa, although it’s possible to make a formal application at the police station, the procedure seems to be fairly complicated and must be started no later than 15 days after your arrival in the country. The outcome isn’t a foregone conclusion. Most people opt for the so-called “visa run”, i.e. leaving and re-entering the country for the sole purpose of renewing the visa. Apparently this is a really common practice and accepted by the border police. In case you’re interested, probably the most practical and economical option is the ferry to Spain from Tangier.
Morocco doesn’t require any mandatory vaccinations but Hepatitis A and B are recommended.
Finally, for your information, the use and entry of drones into the country are illegal. If you get checked, your drone will be confiscated. At both the entrance and exit at the airport I had my backpack passed through X-rays and upon seeing the camera I was suspiciously asked if I also had a drone. Personally, I wouldn’t risk it.
For up-to-date information on visas and everything else, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).
Rabat Kasbah.
What to do and see in Morocco
In this guide, prices are often expressed in the local currency. Morocco’s official currency is called the “Moroccan Dirham” or simply “Dirham,” abbreviated as “MAD.”
The exchange rate is about 1€ = 11 MAD. For the current exchange rate, I suggest you look at this page. Anyway, the rate has been relatively stable for many years, so much so that in tourist places you’ll sometimes see prices expressed in euros (they’re often accepted). In these cases the “implied” exchange rate is 1 to 10 which although slightly unfavorable is still something to keep in mind since it makes conversions really practical, in fact you only need to divide any price by 10 to get a fairly accurate idea of the euro equivalent.
Finally, the destinations described are listed starting from the capital Rabat continuing north and then descending south. This order is probably the best way to optimize travel, but clearly it depends very much on where you are arriving and what your intentions are.
N.b. Several times throughout the guide you’ll find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the Alltrails app you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.
Rabat
As just mentioned, Rabat is the capital of Morocco. Compared to the rest of the country, it’s a clean and organized city. Also, unlike other more touristy destinations, you are less targeted by the various shopkeepers, so walking through the medina is a more relaxing experience.
What to do and see in Rabat
The city may not have the charm of Marrakech and Fes but if you have a day or two to devote to it I think it’s an interesting option.
Kasbah des Oudaias and Andalusian Gardens
The Kasbah is the oldest part of the city and a UNESCO site. The characteristic narrow streets and blue and white buildings make it a pleasant place to explore. During my visit it looked at times like a construction site but there are still pretty glimpses and in any case the renovation work will end sooner or later! At the north side there’s a nice viewing platform called “Plateforme du Sémaphore” from where you have a great view of the Atlantic Ocean and the mouth of the Bou Regreg River. Unfortunately, both the Andalusian Gardens and the Oudaya Museum were closed during my visit. In any case, admission to the gardens is free and according to what I read they’re really nice.
In the streets of the Kasbah des Oudaias.
Hassan Tower and Mausoleum of Mohammed V
Hassan Tower, also a UNESCO site, dates from the 12th century and is the minaret of what is supposed to have been one of the largest mosques of the time. The columns surrounding it are what remains of this unfinished work. The Mausoleum of Mohammed V on the other hand is much more recent: opened in 1967, it’s the resting place of the current king’s grandfather. The two attractions are literally side by side, and access is free daily from 8:00 to 18:00. Both buildings are especially striking in the evening when illuminated.
Mausoleum of Mohammed V.
Hassan Tower.
Chellah
Chellah or Shalla is another UNESCO site. Founded by the Carthaginians, conquered by the Romans and later by the Arabs, it’s a fortified medieval necropolis. During my visit the site was closed for restoration so I won’t comment on what is inside the walls but if you have time to spare even just walking around the walls isn’t bad. Admission costs 70 dh, normally open daily from 8:30 to 18:30.
Royal Palace
Halfway between Chellah and downtown Rabat is one of the many royal palaces scattered around the country. This one is the official residence of the royal family, while the others are used only during short visits. “Visiting” is allowed but it’s essential to bring your passport; I managed to convince the guards at the entrance that a photo of the data page was enough, but when it came time to register my entry I wasn’t as lucky. Anyway, I had only stopped because it was on my way, since according to what I read you’re only allowed to walk around the outside, and taking photos is frowned upon. The entrance however is free so you have nothing to lose, the important thing is to bring your passport! There are several entrances but the one for the public is exactly at this point.
Rabat Cemetery
Let’s be clear, it’s only a cemetery, but its location a stone’s throw from the sea and its colors make it striking and photogenic, especially at sunset.
Rabat cemetery.
Salé
Salé is the town that lies north of Rabat, across the river. It can be reached by boat for a couple of dirhams (this is the location) or by taking the streetcar. Here you can explore the Medina, the Borj Adoumoue palace, which is technically being restored but if interested apparently you can bribe the guards at the entrance and get access for a few dirhams, and finally the Medrasa whose entrance costs 60dh.
To conclude, other nearby attractions that I haven’t had a chance to visit but I think are worth keeping in mind are the Bouknadel Exotic Gardens, north of Salé (official website), and the Rabat Zoo south of downtown (official website).
How to reach Rabat?
Rabat has frequent connections to most of the country’s major cities. By train to: Casablanca, Marrakech, Meknes, Fes, and Tangier. Be careful because there are two stations in the city, the one in the center being Rabat Ville. Rabat Agadal, meanwhile, is about 5 km from the center. The CTM bus station is at this point.
Where to sleep in Rabat?
I slept at Riad Dar El Mesk, which is the cheapest option I could find. The location is great and the rooms are clean. Other cheap and potentially better options are Dar Ibrahim and especially Riad Dar el Ghali.
View from the Plateforme du Sémaphore.
Tangier
Tangier is the third largest city in Morocco by population and given its strategic location, one of the most important ports in the Mediterranean.
What to do and see in Tangier
Being very close to Spain (the Spanish coast is only 30 km away) Tangier is a city with a strong European influence without, however, missing out on all that Morocco has to offer.
Medina
The Medina in the old part of town is undoubtedly one of the main attractions. The characteristic narrow streets winding their way through shopkeepers and ancient buildings are the perfect place to get lost for a few hours wandering around aimlessly. Some points of interest are the Grande Mosquée, visible only from the outside, and the nearby Petit souq, or “little market,” which in the past was considered the economic center of the city while now it’s a really nice little square full of bars and restaurants. Finally, although there isn’t much to see, you can drop by the tomb of Ibn Battuta, one of the greatest travelers of the past.
One of the entrances to the Medina.
Kasbah
Formerly the sultan’s palace, today there are two museums inside the main building: the Kasbah Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art. I entered the Kasbah Museum, the entrance costs only 20dh, the exhibition isn’t that bad (information is in French and Arabic) and the building itself is interesting. Anyway, the whole area is nice and at Bab Al Bahr there’s a nice viewing terrace.
Kasbah Museum.
Place du 9 Avril 1947 (Grand Socco)
This is the large square south of the Medina opposite the Sidi Bou Abib mosque. Also facing the square is Cinema Rif, an old cinema that also has an “alternative” café popular with Tangier’s youth and artists. On the opposite side is a large market, and on Thursday and Sunday mornings an open-air market takes place along the streets near St. Andrew’s Church. I didn’t go inside but technically the church can be visited for free. Also around the square are the Mendoubia Gardens, nothing special but still a pleasant place to relax under the shade of some trees.
Phoenician Tombs and Cafe Hafa
The archaeological site dates back about 3,000 years and groups together about a hundred tombs. Honestly there isn’t much to see and let’s just say the site isn’t well maintained but there is no entrance fee to pay and there’s a beautiful view of the city with the harbor in the distance. I recommend coming at sunset. A few hundred meters from the tombs, on the other hand, is Cafe Hafa, open since 1921, it’s something of an institution in town and the perfect place to relax while enjoying the view of the Mediterranean Sea.
Sunset from the Phoenician Tombs.
American Legation
The American Legation is a museum and cultural center housing numerous historical and artistic artifacts. It was the first American public property outside national borders. Admission costs 20dh.
Fondation Lorin
Musée de la Fondation Lorin is a small museum, or rather an archive, of historical photos and newspapers related to the city’s history. All displayed inside an old synagogue. The caretaker is really nice and, even though admission is free, a small donation is highly recommended.
Sour Al Maâgazine
Sour Al Maâgazine, also known as Terrasse des Paresseux, is a small square that also serves as a viewpoint. There are old cannons and in general the surrounding area is a pleasant place to walk around. A short distance away is also the Cervantes Grand Theater. Unfortunately, the building is in ruins and can’t be visited but you can take some photos from the outside.
Caves of Hercules and Cape Spartel
This is a nice day trip. The Caves of Hercules (Les Grottes d’Hercule) are part of a giant archaeological area with a history dating back to 2,500 BC. Their name comes from mythology describing them as the home of the mighty Hercules. The system of tunnels stretches over 30 km, but the visitable part is much more compact. Admission is free.
Caves of Hercules.
Once you have visited the caves I recommend walking north to Cape Spartel. Weather permitting, the walk is really pleasant, it’s about 5 km, you cross a couple of beaches and then at one point there’s a nice well maintained pedestrian path where there are tables and benches overlooking the ocean, perfect for a picnic lunch or just contemplating the view. When you arrive at Cape Spartel if you want you can pay for the entrance to the lighthouse and gardens where you’ll find a bar/restaurant. If I’m not mistaken the entrance costs 70 dh, which seemed excessive to me, so I decided not to enter. The views around there are great anyway, so it’s your call.
To get to Hercules Caves or Cape Spartel there are shared cabs that leave here. On Saturdays and Sundays, or in high season, they fill up fast and the trip costs 10dh, if you travel alone expect to pay at least 50-60 dh. To get back to Tangier I hitchhiked and it was really easy. If you want to take a cab, I recommend walking to this point where there are always a few cabs. Another option might be the Hop On Hop Off Bus, a ticket costs 140 dh and stops include both the Hercules Caves and Cape Spartel.
One of the beaches between the Caves of Hercules and Cape Spartel.
Asilah
Personally, I haven’t been there, but Asilah, which is about 50 km south of Tangier, is potentially another day trip and if you wish you can even spend the night there. The Torre de Menagem (Borj Al Kamra) is the city’s main attraction. Built in 1509 when Asilah was under Portuguese control, the tower was the residence of the king’s daughter who had married the city’s governor. It’s possible to reach Asilah either by train or by Grand Taxi.
In conclusion, Cap Malabata (15 km east of Tangier) is another relatively popular destination not far from the city. I haven’t been there but apparently it’s especially nice to see the sunrise there.
How to reach Tangier?
Tangier is connected by train to much of the country. Along the coast there are also high-speed trains that connect the city to Casablanca and Rabat in just over two hours. Then there are regular trains to destinations such as Meknes, Fez, and an overnight train to Marrakech. A cab from the train station (Tanger Ville) to the center, or vice versa, costs between 15-25 dh depending on your negotiating skills. By bus there are frequent connections to Tetouan and Chefchaouen (where the rail network doesn’t arrive) but also many other cities in the country. The CTM bus station is at this point. Cabs to and from the center cost 20-25 dh.
Where to sleep in Tangier?
I slept at Tanja Lucia Hostel and all in all I recommend it. But while I was there I got to know two girls who also stayed at Bayt Alice Hostel and in their opinion it was much better.
Tétouan
Tétouan is a city snubbed by many tourists. I realized this immediately the moment I was literally the only non-local to get off the bus that would continue on to Chefchaouen. I think it’s a real shame.
What to do and see in Tétouan
The Medina of Tétouan is a UNESCO site and in my opinion the number one attraction in the city. To the trained eye, three distinct parts can be identified: Andalusian, Jewish and Berber. Getting lost in the narrow streets is especially a pleasure because, although not completely, you are mostly ignored and are free to explore without being constantly nagged.
Kasbah
The Kasbah that dominates the city from above is being restored and closed to the public, but I still recommend climbing the maze of stairs north of the Medina that lead up to the ruined structure. This part of the city is colored blue and somewhat reminiscent of Chefchaouen. Once you get to the top you can walk along the walls and there are some really nice views.
One of the streets north of the Medina.
Royal Palace and Mohammed V Street
The royal palace isn’t accessible to the public as is much of the square in front of it (Place El Mechouar) but it’s still a pleasant area to stroll around especially in the evening when temperatures drop and the Mohammed V pedestrian street that connects Plaza Muley El Mahdi to the palace comes alive.
Place El Mechouar.
Jbel Dersa
The Jbel Dersa is the mountain you see north of the city, from the top you have excellent views of both Tétouan and the Mediterranean Sea in the distance. It’s a relatively easy hike, starting from the Medina it’s 4-5 km and just over 400m of elevation gain, 1-2 hours maximum to climb, an hour to descend. The route is found at this link. Following this GPS track you walk along a dirt road. On the way down, I discovered that if you want, you can walk down a flight of steps for the first part of the trail that starts here and then rejoins the road. If you don’t feel like walking to the top of Jbel Dersa, there’s a viewing platform after the first flight of stairs.
At the end of the GPS track I couldn’t find a real trail so I walked by sight for a few hundred meters to the top. It’s a really pleasant walk with excellent views, especially recommended if you want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city for a while. Throughout the morning, I only met a couple of shepherds.
View from the viewing platform.
How to reach Tétouan?
There are frequent buses to and from: Fes, Chefchaouen, Casablanca, Rabat, Meknes, and Tangier. The CTM station is a short distance from the Medina at this point, clearly it depends on where you are staying but generally you can easily walk to it.
Where to sleep in Tétouan?
Darna Hostel is one of the best hostels I stayed in during my trip to Morocco. The breakfast is great and the view from the terrace unbeatable. For private rooms and the four-bed dorm where I slept you have to book on Riad Darna. It’s literally the same place but for some strange reason they’re two different properties on booking.com.
View from Jbel Dersa summit.
Chefchaouen
Chefchaouen, also known as the Blue City, was my favorite destination on my trip to Morocco. This small town surrounded by the Rif mountains is not only extremely photogenic but boasts a much more relaxed atmosphere than other tourist destinations in the country.
What to do and see in Chefchaouen
Especially in the past, many travelers were attracted to Chefchaouen by the fact that the city’s surroundings are home to a good portion of Morocco’s marijuana plantations from which the infamous hashish is then produced, which on the local market costs as little as 5-10dh per gram. Tours to the plantations are offered on the street that include demonstrations on how the final product is obtained but if you’re not interested this is one aspect of the city that you can simply ignore and enjoy everything else.
Medina
The medina of Chefchaouen with its blue-colored buildings is undoubtedly the number one attraction in the city. Walking its streets is a dream for photographers, and not only for them. There are a lot of interesting sights but if you’re looking for some of the most beautiful/iconic ones here are a few: inner courtyard with small table (35.170135, -5.260881) 5dh to enter, blue gate (35.169602, -5.264145) and finally the stairways (35.170065, -5.26322).
The inner courtyard with the small table.
Kasbah
The Kasbah located in the beautiful main square (Plaza Uta el Hamman) looks nice from the outside but according to my research there is virtually nothing to see inside except for the garden and a small exhibition, so much so that I personally decided not to go inside. The entrance fee for tourists in recent years has been raised to 60dh so if you’re traveling on a budget you’d probably be better off spending your money elsewhere.
The stairways.
Spanish Mosque
From the Jemaa Bouzafar mosque, commonly called the Spanish mosque, you have in my opinion the most beautiful views of the city. The wide path starts near the Bab El Onsar, the eastern entrance to the city where you can also see local women doing laundry at the Ras El Ma spring, from here it’s then really easy to reach the mosque. I recommend going up to the mosque for the sunset but if you really don’t feel like walking there are a couple of equally nice viewpoints along the way. If you have the time/feel like it, you can continue further until you reach Cafe Panorama where you can have a drink or something to eat with a great view.
Sunset from the Spanish Mosque.
Akchour
About 30 km north of Chefchaouen, Akchour is a nice day trip. Once you get to the small village you basically have two options that are described as one trail at this link. The shorter trail leads to the so-called God’s Bridge or Pont de Dieu, a really photogenic natural bridge that you reach after a short walk (about 45 minutes). We took the path that passes high up and takes you to walk on the actual bridge but if you wish, there’s another path that runs along the bottom of the gorge. This not only saves you some elevation gain but according to the photo boasts better views. However, the trail may be impassable if the creek’s water level is high.
The other option is to walk to the Grand Cascade (about 2 hours) but from what I was told, except for a few winter months, there’s almost never any water. We stopped about halfway and in any case the whole trail is really nice, there are many waterfalls and more than a few places where you can swim in the crystal clear water. With some luck you might even see some monkeys. All along the way there are numerous restaurants.
Getting to Akchour is relatively easy. I was lucky enough to meet two Slovenian guys staying at the hostel who gave me a ride in their rental car. Especially in high season and on weekends, grand taxis go back and forth frequently and you shouldn’t have to wait too long. The grand taxi station is located at this spot. The cost is 25 dh per person and the trip takes about 45 minutes.
Monkeys along the creek.
Jebel El-Kelaa
Jebel El-Kelaa towers over Chefchaouen and is a nice day hike. You can find details of the route at this link. It’s about 1,000 meters of elevation gain so it’s not a walk in the park, but not something too challenging either. Especially in summer, make sure you take enough water with you. Unfortunately, I only completed the trail to the summit in part because when I got to Aïn Tissimlane I met a German couple who had been robbed of all their cash by a local armed with a knife who was hanging around near the summit. Clearly at that point I decided to return to town and give up on the climb. I mentioned the matter to the hostel owners who have lived in Chefchaouen for several years. They were extremely surprised at what had happened and told me it was the first time they had heard of such an incident, so I don’t know what to think. Apparently I was extremely unlucky, but the fact remains that it happened, so I’d avoid going up with any valuables.
In any case, the surroundings of Chefchaouen offer many trails for those interested in hiking. For example, it’s possible to reach Akchour by crossing the Talassemtane National Park over two days. Unfortunately, I think only the Spanish version exists, but while I was in Chefchaouen I came across Senderismo y naturaleza en el parque nacional de talassemtane where you can find a lot of interesting insights.
In conclusion, I don’t usually recommend restaurants but in the case of Chefchaouen I think I have to make an exception, Restaurant Bab Ssour offers great food at honest prices, give it a try.
View from the trail to Jebel El-Kelaa.
How to reach Chefchaouen?
Chefchaouen has direct bus connections to most major cities in the north of the country including: Tétouan, Fez, Meknès, Tangier, Rabat, and Casablanca. There’s only one bus station at this location.
Where to sleep in Chefchaouen?
I slept at Vallparadis Pension Familiar “FIRDAUS” and I strongly recommend it. There are undoubtedly cheaper options but the property is nice, clean and there’s a kitchen available to guests. I had a chance to take a look at the Hotel Ouarzazate as well and while not as nice it’s a great budget option.
Fez
Fez or Fes was the medieval capital of Morocco and is considered by many to be the best-preserved ancient city in the Arab world.
What to do and see in Fez
The ancient walled city can be a real maze just waiting to be explored. The medina is among the largest in the country, and exploring its streets making your way through the various stores and markets is in my opinion the number one experience in Fez.
Fez at sunset.
Medina
There are certainly noteworthy sites that I recommend visiting or in some cases peeking at such as the Qarawiyyin Mosque which also serves as a university (founded in 859 it’s the oldest in the world) and library since 1359, the oldest in continuous service. Unfortunately, access is forbidden to non-Muslims who can still admire its splendor from outside or better yet from the terrace of a store located here (34.065157, -4.973066). They let me go up for free however as always people expect something in return. Personally I left with a simple thank you. Another place banned to non-Muslims is the mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, the city’s founder. Again, however, it’s possible to peek in from the outside. Finally, there are numerous gates to the Medina, some of which are worth seeing, one above all being the one commonly called the Blue Gate, which is particularly beautiful in the evening when it’s illuminated. Bab Ftouh isn’t bad either.
Qarawiyyin Mosque.
Al Attarine Madrasa
Not far from the Qarawiyyin Mosque is the Koranic school Al Attarine Madrasa. It can be visited and admission costs only 20dh. Like the other Madrasas in the country, expect a beautiful inner courtyard decorated with mosaics and carved wood. I was lucky enough to have it to myself for almost 20 minutes and perhaps that’s why it’s my favorite of all the ones I’ve visited. Admission costs 20 dh, open daily from 8:00 to 18:00.
Al Attarine Madrasa.
Bou Inania Madrasa
Bou Inania Madrasa is a 14th century Koranic school. Unlike other Koranic schools that can be visited in the country, here there’s a small part of the building that serves as a mosque, and although the latter can’t be visited, it’s clearly visible. Considered by some to be the best example of Islamic architecture a non-Muslim can see in Fez, if you have seen other Madrasas, the familiar mosaics and carved wooden walls with the classic inner courtyard will certainly not be new. Beautiful nonetheless, and I absolutely recommend the visit. Admission costs 20 dh, open daily from 9:00 to 18:00.
Cherratine Madrasa
Cherratine Madrasa, dating from 1670, is the newest of the city’s historic Koranic schools. It’s spread over three floors and has over 100 rooms. While less well maintained than the others, admission costs only 20 dh so you don’t have much to lose. It’s open daily from 9:00 to 15:00.
Tanneries
Between the bad smell and the people hanging around—who’ll soon be trying to make you pay just to breathe—the iconic tanneries that look so beautiful in photos are, in my opinion, less fascinating in real life. Nevertheless, they’re definitely worth a visit or at least a look from one of the many viewing terraces. First of all, there are two tanneries within the medina:
Sidi Moussa and Chouara. The former is smaller and less photogenic while the latter is the largest and probably the one in most of the photos you see around.
Chouara tannery seen from shop number 10.
The various viewing terraces are bars/restaurants or, in most cases, stores that sell leather products, many of which offer free access to the terrace in the hope that you’ll then buy something, but don’t feel obligated at all. I saw Sidi Moussa from the terrace of a store at this spot (34.063915, -4.975835) while for Chouara, the “prettier” of the two in my opinion, I recommend the terrace of store number 10 at this spot (34.066155, -4.97102). There’s a nice sign at the entrance that clearly states “free admission” so don’t feel obligated to pay anything. At Chouara I went into the actual tannery; if you’re interested, just go down the stairs to the entrance, which is fairly obvious, but you can always ask around and you’ll be directed immediately. Here, as I was going down the stairs, I met a “guard” who demanded 100 dh to enter. My Portuguese friend and I refused to pay and we were about to leave when a worker came along who was willing to let us in for free and gave us a short guided tour—of course the initial “free” turned into 50 dh at the end of the “tour”! We gave him 20 dh, so for 10dh each we got in. Basically, if you want to get in, expect to have to pay someone. To wrap up, although the smell is certainly not pleasant, I found it perfectly bearable, or at least it was in April; with the summer heat it gets worse. In any case, all the shops around offer mint leaves to sniff to cover up the stench that so many people talk about.
Workers in the Chouara tannery.
Dar Batha Museum
A former royal palace converted to a museum in 1916 where historical and artistic works related to the country are on display. During my visit it was closed for renovations but admission costs only 10 dh and from what I had read even without taking into account the exhibition, the palace itself was worth the entrance fee.
Glaoui Palace
Palais El Glaoui is the “house museum” of an artist who still lives there and displays his artwork in part of the property. I was planning to go there but after talking to a guy in the hostel who described it as a dilapidated house without much to see, I changed my mind but I’m sure it might be an interesting visit for some. The entrance fee is 25 dh.
Borj Nord.
Borj Sud and Borj Nord
Borj Sud and Borj Nord are the two fortresses that, as the name suggests, are on opposite sides of the city. Unless you have plenty of time, I don’t recommend going up to Borj Sud; the view is nice but not as nice as the view from the north side of the city. Also, the fortress can’t be visited. Borj Nord, besides offering a better view, is also a museum dedicated to weapons. Admission costs 20dh, plus another 10dh if you want the audio guide.
If you’re not interested in the museum, potentially even better and free views of the city are from the Tombs of the Merenids. The 14th-century ruins are in poor condition, but the views are great. If you don’t feel like climbing all the way to the top of the hill you can opt to watch the sunset from the walls at this spot (34.06882, -4.977524). Although less popular than the tombs, in my opinion the view is better.
Tombs of the Merenids.
Jnan Sbil or Parc de Boujloud
Created by Sultan Moulay Abdallah in the 18th century, the Jnan Sbil is the city’s oldest park. Just outside the medina, it’s a pleasant place to relax away from the hustle and bustle. If you plan to walk to the Jewish quarter, the park is literally on the way.
Parc de Boujloud.
Jewish Quarter
The Jewish quarter east of the Medina is a less touristy area of the city that I recommend visiting if you have extra time or simply want to partially escape the hordes of tourists invading the Medina. The royal palace is also located here, of which unfortunately only the main entrance gate (Bab L’Makhzen) can be admired. During my visit, access to the square (Place des Alaouites) that is in front of the palace was also forbidden.
Beyond strolling through the various streets, you can visit the Aben Danan Synagogue whose admission costs 20dh, while the nearby Jewish cemetery, despite what they would have you believe, is free. Ignore those who try to charge you and don’t hesitate to threaten to call the police.
Royal Palace.
How to reach Fez?
Fez has train connections to Meknes, Rabat, Casablanca, Marrakech, and Tangier. The train station (Gare de Fes) is located here. Opposite is the Supratours bus station, which offers direct connections to Merzouga and many other cities in the country, while the CTM bus station is rather far from the center and is located at this point.
If you arrive at the airport and don’t want to take a cab to the center, bus number 16 costs only 4 dh and connects the train station to the airport about every hour from 6:00 to 23:00. To be precise, the bus stops at this point in front of the train station.
Where to sleep?
I slept at Hostel Amir, a great location and value for money however certainly not one of those unforgettable hostels. Riad Verus, at least on paper, seems like a nicer place.
View from the walls of Fez.
Meknès
Meknès, along with Fès, Marrakech and Rabat, is part of Morocco’s so-called imperial cities, those cities that throughout history have served as the country’s capital. Often snubbed in favor of Fes—a bit like Tétouan with Chefchaouen—if you have time on your hands I really think it’s a destination to consider. Given its proximity to Fes, you can literally visit it on a day trip.
What to do and see in Meknes
Unfortunately, during my visit virtually all of the city’s major attractions were being restored, but the imperial city still has its charm, and even if things don’t change anytime soon, I still recommend a visit.
Medina
The Medina of Meknes is more compact and definitely less touristy than Fes. Walking its streets is definitely a different experience. I’m not much of a shopper, but apparently prices seem to be lower too. The heart of the medina is Lahdim Square, which comes alive in the evening when the sun goes down. Opposite the square is one of the city’s symbols, one of the 27 entrance gates, the Bab Mansour. This was also under restoration during my visit as was the Bab el Khemis considered by many to be the second most beautiful.
Meknes Medina.
Royal Stables (Heri es-Souani)
During my visit, the royal stables and the nearby granary were being restored. In any case, according to the reviews, for what there is to see and the condition they’re in, many people seem to consider the 70 dh entrance fee too high. Who knows, maybe when the work is completed, this place that once housed more than 10,000 horses will return to its former glory. Also part of the same complex is the Bassin Souani, the reservoir that served as a water supply for the city.
Habs Qara Prisons
The prisons were also closed for restoration and again according to the reviews seem to be receiving the same criticism as the stables. 70 dh for a short visit to a place in ruins. Again, who knows, maybe after the renovation work things will change.
Medersa Bou Inania
Guess what? Closed for restoration! In any case, the Medersa Bou Inania is an old Koranic school with a distinctive inner courtyard full of mosaics and carved wood overlooked by the students’ rooms. Before the restoration work, admission cost 60 dh.
Palais Mansour
Clearly, closed for restoration. Anyway, the Palais Mansour was Moulay Ismail’s summer residence. I walked around it and the size is really impressive but being closed to the public and relatively far from the center you’d probably be better off spending your time elsewhere.
Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail
The latter, not surprisingly, was also closed for restoration. In any case, access for non-Muslims is prohibited but you can still peek through the entrance.
View from Dar Merzouga rooftop.
How to reach Meknes?
Meknes has frequent train connections to Fes but also many other cities: Marrakech, Tangier, Rabat, and Casablanca. The city has two stations, a smaller one near the center that I recommend to anyone who wants to visit the main points of interest (Gare de Meknès-Amir Abdelkader) and another larger one slightly outside the center (Gare Meknès-Ville). The CTM bus station, on the other hand, is located here and offers direct buses to all major cities in the country, including destinations where the train doesn’t arrive such as Chefchaouen and Tétouan.
Where to sleep in Meknes?
Dar Merzouga is a good budget option. I recommend it although the seemingly kind and hospitable owner tried to charge me for breakfast which by agreement was included. I refused to pay and as I left rather annoyed he apologized saying there had been a misunderstanding. I think everyone deserves the benefit of the doubt but a few days later in Rabat I met some guys who had the same kind of argument when it was time to check out so I leave it to you to draw your own conclusions about the character’s honesty.
One of the city’s gates at sunset.
Moulay Idriss Zerhoun and Volubilis
Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, or simply Moulay Idriss, is considered the holiest city in Morocco. It was in fact here that Moulay Idriss arrived in 789, bringing Islam with him.
What to do and see in Moulay Idriss Zerhoun
I decided to spend the night in Moulay Idriss only because I wanted to photograph the sunset but honestly I didn’t find the city particularly interesting. The mausoleum of Moulay Idriss I, close to the city’s main square, can’t be visited by non-Muslims.
The only real point of interest is La Grande Terrasse, a terrace from which you have excellent views of the city below. The locals are more than happy to guide you through the streets of the medina in exchange for a small amount of money but albeit with some difficulty I still arrived at my destination. I recommend starting the ascent at this point and whenever there’s a possible turn take the uphill direction until the GPS tells you that you are more or less at the viewpoint. Only then turn right. Anyway, a simple “Grande Terrasse?” addressed to a local should point you in the right direction.
View from the Grande Terrasse.
Volubilis
The Roman ruins of Volubilis located about 4km from the center of Moulay Idriss enjoy UNESCO World Heritage status and are one of Morocco’s most important archaeological sites. The ancient city is, as far as possible, in good condition, with more than a few interesting mosaics that have been preserved over time. Of course there are plenty of similar sites much closer to home, but if you have time I recommend a visit. Admission costs 70 dh but unlike many other historical sites here you’ll find a lot of information along the path that makes its way through the ruins and an interesting museum documenting the entire history of the city. I don’t think it’s necessary but if you want, there are guides at the entrance ready to offer their services. Closing time changes by month and is generally about an hour before sunset. Even in mid-April it was quite hot so if possible I’d avoid the middle hours of the day.
Volubilis.
How to reach Moulay Idriss Zerhoun and Volubilis?
I took the local bus number 15 at this point; if you want to see all the stops, this is the official website. The ticket costs 7dh. If you just want to go to Volubilis I recommend getting off at the roundabout here, where the bus then heads to the center of Moulay Idriss. From here to the entrance to the ruins is just over 2km and if you really don’t want to walk, you shouldn’t have to wait too long before a taxi passes by. I walked both ways but, from asking around, the fixed taxi fare seems to be 30dh. As an alternative to bus 15 you can take a Grand Taxi at this point; the cost is 10dh per passenger.
Where to sleep in Moulay Idriss Zerhoun?
Diyar Timnay is the cheapest option in town and where I thought I’d sleep but there was no one at the front desk and after waiting a while I went to Kasabah Senhaji. The lady was willing to go down to 180 dh including breakfast for a private room with a bathroom. Outstanding food and hospitality, recommended.
Volubilis.
Casablanca
Casablanca is the country’s economic capital and Morocco’s largest city by population but also one of the least attractive destinations from a tourist perspective.
What to do and see in Casablanca
With a compact and unglamorous Medina and a scruffy-looking city center, the temptation to skip Casablanca altogether in favor of other cities might be strong. But if time allows, I strongly recommend spending at least half a day there.
Hassan II Mosque
Opened in 1993, the Hassan II Mosque is Morocco’s largest mosque and the world’s third largest. It’s very impressive both outside and inside. I strongly recommend the visit. To gain access to the interior, it’s mandatory to join a guided tour; to do so, just show up at the ticket office here where the museum is also located. The tour costs 130 dh, the museum entrance costs 30 dh, 140 dh for the combo ticket. The museum is one of the worst I’ve ever seen. It’s only 10dh more but in hindsight I’d save it.
Tours every day at 9:00-10:00-11:00-12:00-15:00-16:00 except Friday when there are tours exclusively at 9:00-10:00-15:00-16:00. In any case, to be on the safe side I recommend having a look at the official website. The tour takes about 45 minutes.
Hassan II Mosque.
Medina
The ancient medina at the side of the port is nothing compared to the splendor of Fes and Marrakech but if you find yourself in the city it’s still worth a visit and a stroll through the classic crowded markets and narrow streets. The port is literally a stone’s throw away. I had read in more than a few places that it was possible to access it but I was turned away at the entrance. Maybe I tried the wrong entrance, maybe the rules have changed. On the other hand, as I walked around the area I discovered a nice pedestrian path that leads up to the Hassan II Mosque.
Casablanca Medina.
Mahkama du Pacha and Royal Palace
Open Monday through Friday from 9:00 to 16:00, Mahkama du Pacha is a historic building used as a government office. The interior is extremely well-kept; take a look at the photos. Admission is technically free but the guards at the entrance say you must be accompanied by a guide. I was in Casablanca over the weekend and the palace was closed so I’m not speaking from firsthand experience but from what I’ve read the guards are willing to let you in for a fee depending on your negotiating skills. Clearly there are “guides” roaming around as well. However, I visited the area thinking you could see something from the outside and all in all, if you have some time to spare, it’s not bad. There are other historic buildings and here is also the royal palace, of which as usual you can only see the entrance gate and finally the Habous market. If you decide to walk from the center, or otherwise look for some other noteworthy places to visit, the post office building has a nice mosaic on the entrance wall and the Mohammed V Square across the street is lively and pleasant, especially in the evening.
Mohammed V Square.
Finally, I haven’t been there but about ten kilometers south of the center there’s a very special little island called Sidi Abderrahman. Its history is linked to legends and folk beliefs. You can visit the small village but the shrine is accessible to Muslims only. If you’re interested, a short distance away is the Morocco Mall, one of the largest shopping malls in the world.
Inside the Hassan II Mosque.
How to reach Casablanca?
Casablanca has frequent train connections to Marrakech, Rabat, Meknes, Fes, and Tangier. The route along the coast to Tangier is covered by the high-speed rail. Casablanca has three train stations: the closest to the center is Casa Port, Casa Voyageurs is slightly outside the center (you can take streetcar line 1) and is the main station of the city, here you can take the high speed rail and reach Tangier in a little over two hours while Casa Oasis is located south of the city, it’s the smallest of the three and you probably have no reason to consider it. As for buses, there are connections to all the major cities in the country. CTM has several stations; in general, the most convenient is the one near the center, a stone’s throw from Casa Port, i.e. CTM Far, CTM Ain Sebaâ is to the north, while to the south there’s CTM Maarif; both are quite far from the center.
Where to sleep in Casablanca?
I slept at Windsor Hotel City Center paying 18€ per night thanks to a promotion on booking. The location is great and the rooms aren’t bad however at full price I think you can find better. Unfortunately there aren’t many hostels in the city, LHOSTEL à Casablanca has great reviews but is quite far from the center (if you want there are frequent streetcar connections) while Auberge de Jeunes Casablanca seems to have seen better times.
Inside the Hassan II Mosque.
Marrakech
After Casablanca and Rabat, Marrakech is Morocco’s third largest city and by far the most visited city in the country. It can be considered for all intents and purposes the capital of Moroccan tourism.
What to do and see in Marrakech
Also known as the Red City, Marrakech can be divided into two parts: the classic Medina, the oldest part of the city, with the usual narrow streets, and the more modern district called Gueliz or Ville Nouvelle. The city has a lot to offer and, especially if you get around by public transportation, it’s also the almost unavoidable crossroads for many other destinations in the country, such as the High Atlas and the desert, so much so that during my trip I was in Marrakech on three different occasions.
Among the markets of Marrakech.
Medina
The sprawling Medina filled with stores and markets is undoubtedly the number one attraction in the city. This is also where most of the accommodations are located and all the major noteworthy sites the city has to offer starting with the iconic Djemaa El-Fna Square, the beating heart of Marrakech. Restaurants, musicians, stalls, monkeys and even snakes can be found here. Especially at night, the square can be really chaotic. Watching the sunset from one of the many terraces overlooking the square and contemplating it from above is something I strongly recommend. The options are many but one of the best views is undoubtedly from the terrace of Cafe Glacier. A measly mint tea costs 25 dh, but I assure you it’s absolutely worth it. I recommend going there for the sunset and, if possible, arriving early if you want any hope of finding a table.
A stone’s throw from Djemaa El-Fna is the Koutoubia Mosque; you can’t visit the inside, but I still recommend walking around it and going into the nearby Parc Lalla Hasna.
Koutoubia Mosque.
Madrasa Ben Youssef
The Ben Youssef Madrasa was recently restored and is therefore in excellent condition compared to other madrasas scattered around the country. As usual when it comes to Koranic schools, expect a beautiful inner courtyard decorated with mosaics and carved wood, overlooked by the small rooms for students. Open daily from 9:00 to 18:00. Admission costs 20 dh. Right beside it stands the Ali Ben Youssef Mosque, almost completely rebuilt in the early 19th century; the original building, built around 1070, was the first mosque in Marrakech. In any case, non-Muslims aren’t allowed inside.
Madrasa Ben Youssef.
El Badi Palace
Construction of the El Badi palace, commissioned by Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur, began in 1578 and unfortunately, after his death in 1603, it was basically abandoned and stripped of all its expensive materials, especially the marble. What you can see today is for all intents and purposes a ruined palace, but I think it’s still a pleasant visit. In the various rooms of the palace there are several exhibits, including vintage photos and historical objects such as the Minbar of the Koutoubia mosque, a carved wooden pulpit dating back to the 12th century. Open daily from 9:00 to 17:00. Admission costs 70 dh.
El Badi palace.
El Bahia Palace
Compared to El Badi, the El Bahia palace is more modern and in excellent condition. The various rooms are a succession of colorful mosaics and carved wood. Undoubtedly the more photogenic of the two. Open daily from 9:00 to 17:00. Admission costs 70 dh. If possible, I recommend avoiding the middle hours of the day when the palace is literally overrun with crowds.
El Bahia palace.
Saadian Tombs
The Saadian Tombs are a mausoleum where about sixty members of the Saadian dynasty rest. The building consists of three rooms, including the iconic Hall of Twelve Columns, the most luxurious of the three. All the monuments are made of Carrara marble and well preserved compared to El Badi Palace. The tombs are open daily from 9:00 to 15:00 and admission costs 70 dh. While it’s not an astronomical amount, I personally don’t think it’s worth it, especially if it means standing in line for hours for a quick look at the famous Hall of Twelve Columns, as apparently happens in high season. If you decide to visit them anyway, my advice is to get there early in the morning as soon as they open and, while you’re there, also see Bab Agnaou, one of the old entrance gates to the walled city, literally a stone’s throw from the tombs. It was under restoration during my visit, but the work will be finished sooner or later!
The Hall of Twelve Columns.
Jewish Quarter
Also near the tombs is the Jewish quarter of Marrakech. Here it’s possible to visit the Salat Al-Azama Synagogue, whose admission costs 10dh. In some rooms there are small exhibits on the history of Judaism in Morocco. I didn’t find it particularly interesting, but the cost is negligible. You can also visit the nearby Jewish cemetery, which is the largest in Morocco. Here, too, admission costs 10 dh.
Majorelle Gardens
The Majorelle Gardens (Jardin Majorelle) are considered one of the city’s symbols. Designed by the artist Jacques Majorelle in the 1920s and 1930s, the gardens house a collection of plants from all over the world. Despite their fame, I personally decided not to go, even though I’m sure it’s a pleasant place. 120 dh for admission seemed like daylight robbery to me, not to mention that, especially in high season, you have to wait in line to get into what is a small garden, so I dare not imagine the crowds. Read some reviews and decide for yourself. If you decide to go, I recommend buying tickets online on the official website so you at least skip the line at the ticket office. Open daily from 8:00 to 18:30. If you’re interested, you can also visit the Saint Laurent Museum and the Berbère Museum by buying the combined ticket for 220 dh also through the official website.
Le Jardin Secret
In my view, the secret garden is another tourist trap, but as with the Majorelle Gardens, I invite you to make up your own mind. In any case, it’s a small botanical garden inside the Medina where you can escape the chaos of the streets. Open daily from 9:30 to 19:30. Admission costs 80 dh and if you want to climb to the top of the tower you have to pay another 40 dh.
El Badi palace.
La Maison de la Photographie
The Maison de la Photographie is a museum displaying original photographs of Morocco taken between 1870 and 1950. One of the rooms also shows Daniel Chicault’s documentary film “The Berbers of the High Atlas,” the first color film, shot in 1957. The panoramic terrace offers an exceptional view of the medina and the Atlas. I found the visit very enjoyable. Open daily from 9:30 to 19:00. Admission costs 50 dh.
Dar Si Saïd Museum
Obviously there are many other museums in Marrakech that might catch your attention, but let me point out the Dar Si Saïd Museum. Set inside a beautiful palace with interior gardens, it displays artifacts that tell the story of Morocco through the various eras, including musical instruments, weapons, clothes, ceramics and carpets. Admission costs only 30 dh. Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00 except Tuesdays.
Tanneries
Having already been to the tanneries in Fez, I didn’t visit the ones in Marrakech, which are considered a poor copy, but if you have no intention of going to Fez on your trip, they’re potentially an interesting place to visit. The tanneries are located here but according to reviews, the people hanging around are the worst that Marrakech has to offer. If you decide to go, I recommend being extremely careful and ignoring anyone who wants to “help” you. Technically, admission is free. Good luck.
Cascade d’Ouzoud
I haven’t been to the falls, but it’s a really popular excursion from Marrakech. Judging by the photos they look really impressive, but especially in summer, from what I’ve read, be prepared for crowds. If you decide to go, based on my research, it’s worth considering joining an organized tour that basically only includes transportation in a private minivan. The alternative is to take a grand taxi to Azilal for about 50 dh and then another one to Ouzoud for about 25 dh. Basically, at least 150 dh for the round trip, with possible long waits, when you could join a tour with private transportation for even less than 300 dh.
Cascade d’Ouzoud.
Agafay Desert
Finally, here too I’m not speaking from personal experience, as I preferred to have my desert experience in Merzouga, which I talk about later in the guide, but if you don’t have much time, the Agafay Desert is a great alternative. You can arrange day trips from Marrakech, while for Merzouga it takes about 9 hours by car just to reach the town.
How to reach Marrakech?
Marrakech is the southern terminus of the Moroccan rail network. Basically, by train you can only travel north, toward Casablanca, Rabat, Meknes, Fez and Tangier. The station is here. The Supratours bus station, as usual, is literally next to it and in case you’re interested, it’s the only company that offers a direct bus to Merzouga. The CTM bus station isn’t far away and can be easily reached on foot. By bus it’s possible to travel to all major cities in the country.
For transfers to and from Marrakech-Menara airport, I recommend taking bus number 19. It runs every half hour from 6:00 to 21:00. The ticket costs 30 dh and the return trip is included in the price, if used within two weeks. You can’t buy a one-way ticket. You can find all the stops at this link. I got on at the Djemaa El-Fna stop and it wasn’t crowded at all; there were only two other people on board. If you’re willing to walk a bit, you could take lines 11, 12, 18, 20 and 33. The stop is just outside the airport grounds at this point and the fare is only 4 dh. For a taxi, be prepared to negotiate and although the official price is 70 dh, expect to pay at least double that.
Where to sleep in Marrakech?
In Marrakech I stayed at two different hostels and I recommend both. Rooftop Hostel is smaller and therefore has a less social atmosphere, but it’s ideal if you’re looking for a quiet, clean place to rest. Mosaic Hostel is where I spent most of my time in the city. Nothing exceptional, but it ticks all the boxes of a good hostel at a great price.
Djemaa El-Fna seen from Cafe Glacier.
High Atlas
The High Atlas is the mountain range visible from Marrakech and boasts the highest peaks not only in Morocco but in all of North Africa, some even exceeding 4,000 m in altitude.
Imlil
Obviously, the possibilities for exploring the region are almost endless, but for 99% of visitors, the High Atlas is synonymous with Imlil, the village where numerous treks start, including the one leading to the summit of Mount Toubkal, which at 4167 meters is the highest mountain in the country.
What to do and see in Imlil
Since it’s only an hour from Marrakech, lots of tourists come on a day trip or maybe spend just one night in the village, but if you have time and especially if you’re interested in doing some longer or shorter treks, I strongly recommend devoting a few days to it.
In the streets of Imlil.
Mount Toubkal
Let’s start with what for many people is the only reason they come to Imlil: Jbel Toubkal, or simply Toubkal, which, as I mentioned, at 4167 m is the highest mountain in the country. Unfortunately, I had to give up on the idea of climbing to the summit because of a minor injury I was afraid of aggravating, but since I made the decision the very morning I was supposed to start the ascent, I assure you I have all the information you need.
First of all, you should know that for the past few years you’ve had to be accompanied by a guide not only to climb to the top of Mount Toubkal but, technically, also whenever you enter the national park of the same name. That said, the only real police checkpoint is along the trail leading to the summit of Toubkal at this point (31.122441, -7.921269); if you wander into the national park somewhere else, you shouldn’t have any problems.
In any case, the “standard” trail completed by most hikers is the one described in detail on this page. Although not many people do it, some decide to go up and down in a single day (a long day, but a well-trained person shouldn’t have any problems), while others decide to take it really easy and complete the route in three days. Most people opt for the two-day itinerary. Keep in mind that it’s still over two thousand meters of elevation gain and, since you go above 4000 m, the altitude could make itself felt, so you need at least some training; don’t take it lightly. It’s also worth remembering that the summit is often covered with snow and ice even as late as May and the first snowfalls can come as early as September, so you may need crampons and ideally some familiarity with these kinds of conditions. Ascents are regularly completed even in the middle of winter, but obviously it’s a different experience.
With this long introduction out of the way, I don’t think there’s any need to explain how the one-day itinerary works, while as for the two-day itinerary: on the first day you climb up to one of the two refuges (Refuge du Toubkal and Refuge Toubkal Les Mouflons), here you spend the night before completing the ascent the following morning. The refuges are about 3 km from the summit. The distance is short but this last section is very steep, climbing about 1,000 meters in altitude and it can take up to 3-4 hours. Once you reach the summit you can decide to return to the hut for lunch or go directly down to Imlil. If you opt for the three-day route, on the second day, after reaching the summit, you return to the hut where you spend another night and descend to Imlil the following day.
View of Imlil and the Toubkal massif on the right, Tizi n’Mzik pass.
If you want, you could book the whole thing from Marrakech, about 150€ for the two-day itinerary with a full package (guide, refuge and transport), but if you organize everything from Imlil you can spend much less, especially if you join a group. The guide, which, remember, is mandatory, officially costs 50€ per day, unofficially 40€, and if you’re good at bargaining you can get it down to 30€. A quick aside: since having a guide became mandatory, all the villagers seem to be guides; if for any reason you want a certified guide, you can contact the official association via its website or show up at the office located in Imlil in person (location). If you want, you can even pay to have a mule carry your backpack up to the refuge.
In any case, the price is the same regardless of the number of participants, so the more people you find, the less you spend. For example, I was supposed to join a group of five Polish guys I’d met at the guesthouse who had agreed on 40€ per day, so the guide would have cost me just over 13€ in total (40×2/6). You can book the refuge yourself via the website/email. I’d been recommended the Refuge du Toubkal, which costs 32€ for full board. Basically, even counting transportation to and from Marrakech, I’d have spent about 60€ for the two-day trek.
Nicola, I’m on my own and I’d have to pay for a guide just for me. What can I do?
You could ask around and see if there are any guides who already have a group, or simply ask the other guests where you’re staying, like I did, or use my plan B, which is to go to the checkpoint I mentioned earlier, located at this point (31.122441, -7.921269), and join the first group willing to take you. I asked several people around (guides included) and it seems to work perfectly. If you’re there before 9:00 you catch all the groups of the day and you shouldn’t have to wait too long before a guide is willing to take you through the checkpoint with his group for 100-200 dh.
I’ve heard stories of people who, by mutual agreement with the guide, passed the checkpoint together and then went their own way. Finally, if you decide to go for the DIY approach, on weekends in high season the refuges tend to be fully booked, so I recommend booking early (you can always cancel your reservation at no cost) or scheduling the ascent during the week.
The upper part of the Imlil waterfall.
Imlil and waterfalls
This is a really pleasant loop, accessible to just about everyone, with nice views of the village, the mountains, two waterfalls and a small hamlet with characteristic mud and straw houses. You can find the GPS coordinates at this link. The straight lines are a rough representation of a recently built dirt road that isn’t on the map, but I assure you it’s really easy to follow. However, it’s marked on Google Maps and clearly visible on the satellite images too. It’s 5-6 km in total, 2-4 hours depending on pace and number of breaks. It includes a visit to the popular Imlil Waterfall.
Imlil waterfall.
Tizi Oussem
Another nice day hike starting from Imlil is the one leading to the village of Tizi Oussem. You can find the GPS coordinates of the route I followed at this link. You start by climbing up to the Tizi n’Mzik pass (2489 m), then descend toward the village of Tizi Oussem and continue along the Azzaden valley before crossing another ridge to reach the village of Anfalkou. Once you reach Tizi Oussem you have to walk a few kilometers along the road, but there’s no traffic and the views are great. It’s a fairly challenging route, almost 20 km with over 1000 m of elevation gain. It took me about 8 hours with short breaks. Once you come out on the road at Anfalkou, just stop any vehicle heading up toward Imlil; you shouldn’t have to wait long. I got on one of the green minibuses that go back and forth; they asked me for 10dh and I paid without making a fuss, but considering that the Imlil – Asni route costs 8dh, I think the right price is 5 dh, if not less.
If that seems too demanding for one day, you could simply climb up to the Tizi n’Mzik pass and then return to Imlil without going down to Tizi Oussem; that way it’s about 8 km in total, with 700 meters of elevation gain. Great views of both valleys. You could also spend the night in Tizi Oussem, there are at least a couple of guesthouses plus a few other options going down the valley (Azzaden Trekking Lodge, Gete anfa idâissa etc etc) and complete the route in two days. Finally, instead of going down the valley, you could go up to the Igholiden Waterfall by following this route. I haven’t been there, but judging by the photos it seems to be really big. There’s probably a lot more water in spring than in fall.
Rhirhaia valley.
Tacheddirt
At 2314 meters, Tacheddirt is the highest village in Morocco, with fantastic views of the Rhirhaia valley, and potentially another great hike from Imlil. To reach Tacheddirt, the shortest route follows, in parts, the road connecting the two villages (if you want, you can reach Tacheddirt by car). It’s about 11 km and 800 m of elevation gain; you can find the GPS coordinates on this page, 3-4 hours depending on your pace. You start by climbing up toward the Tizi n’Tamatert pass (2320m) and then descend gently down the valley before crossing it and climbing back up the other side toward Tacheddirt.
The second option is to take the long way around via the Tizi n’Aguersioual pass, from which you descend to the village of Ikkis before climbing back up the valley to Tacheddirt. This makes the route about 3 km longer. You can find the GPS coordinates on this page, 4-5 hours depending on your pace. The stretch of trail from Imlil to the Tizi Aguersioual pass is easy to follow, but in places it’s not in great condition and it’s slightly exposed. Nothing serious, but I’d avoid doing it with children. I went up one way and down the other, completing the loop over two days.
Tacheddirt.
Once you get to Tacheddirt, instead of going back to Imlil you could keep going. In fact, I met two French guys who were going to Oukaimeden over the Tizi n’Ou Addi pass, and one of them was going to continue on to Sitti Fadma, where there are some relatively famous waterfalls. Another option is to climb up to the Tizi n’Tacheddirt pass (3230m). That way you look down not only on the Rhirhaia Valley but also on the Ourika Valley. If you go in this direction, remember that you’re crossing the national park, so technically a guide is required, but there are no checkpoints and in any case, if you only go up to the pass, nobody should say anything to you. If, on the other hand, you do the Tizi n’Ou Addi pass, contrary to what some locals might tell you, no guide is required. In Tacheddirt there are several Guesthouses, I slept in Dar Bejmate – Chez Hassan. The rooms are spartan and the hot shower is taken with a bucket, but Hassan’s hospitality, despite the language barrier, is something exceptional. The food is excellent.
Finally, these are some of the main loops you can complete on your own, or almost, but the options are pretty much endless. For example, a really popular multi-day trek is the one that makes the complete loop of the Toubkal massif as described on this page while at this link you’ll find all the treks offered by the official association of Imlil guides mentioned earlier. However, if you don’t feel like joining a tour or otherwise paying for the guide to go deeper into the national park, I really think the best options are the ones described so far.
Ikkis.
How to reach Imlil?
The most practical way to reach Imlil is via grand taxi from Marrakech. The station is here. The price is 50 dh per person. Alternatively you could take a grand taxi to Asni for 20 dh and then board one of the old green minibuses used by locals to go back and forth along the valley at a cost of 8dh. Of course, all this also applies in the opposite direction back to Marrakech.
Where to sleep in Imlil?
During my long stay in Imlil I slept in three different Guesthouses. Dar Adouss offers really cheap private rooms about 15 minutes from the center but if there’s availability, the nearby Dar Atlas offers in my opinion a better service while if you’re looking for something cheap in the middle of the “center” then Imlil Refuge isn’t bad.
Sunset over the Rhirhaia Valley, Dar Bejmate – Chez Hassan.
Essaouira
Essaouira is an example of an 18th-century fortified port city just a few hours by bus from Marrakech, so it’s often visited on a day trip, but if time allows, I recommend spending at least one night there.
What to do and see in Essaouira
As with other destinations along the coast, most days the beach is more suitable for surfing and kitesurfing than for swimming, but nobody’s stopping you from going for a swim. Around the city there are also other popular spots for water sports: Sidi Kaouki, Moulay Bouzertoune and Cap Sim. Most surf/kitesurf schools offer transportation services to the most suitable destination depending on the weather forecast for the day.
Essaouira.
Medina
If you’re not at all interested in surfing and kitesurfing, don’t worry. The historic center of the city is not only a UNESCO site but, given its oceanfront setting, it’s in my opinion one of the most fascinating medinas in the country. Not surprisingly, it has been used as a set in several movies, including, recently, Game of Thrones. Some points of interest are: Skala De La Ville (accessible from this point), where you can walk on the city walls and one of its bastions; the original cannons are still there and, more generally, it feels like going back in time. Admission is free, but you can only go in between 9:00 and 18:00. Another part of the fortification system that is accessible to the public is the Skala Du Port, which is the bastion at the entrance to the port. Here you have to pay admission, which until a few years ago cost 10 dh but has recently been raised to 50 dh for foreigners. I decided not to go up, but according to the reviews there’s not much to see, although the view of the city, the main square (Place Moulay Hassan) and the port probably isn’t bad.
Essaouira Medina.
Speaking of the port, I recommend taking a walk there in the evening, when the fishermen sell the catch of the day. The smell is pretty strong, but the chance to take photos or just watch the buying and selling is really something unique. If you want, you can buy fresh fish and then have it cooked at a restaurant in the center for next to nothing. The port is just outside the walls; just go through Bab El Marsa. Alternatively, follow the seagulls!
Skala Du Port.
Dar Sultan
This palace is known by many names, including Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah, Dar Soltane, Dar Es-Sultan, Dar Assoltane and even Maison Blanche. It’s always the same place, located at this position south of the city. Unfortunately, it’s completely in ruins and there isn’t much to see apart from the remains of a few mosaics. If you have time, it’s still a pleasant walk. While I was walking around there, several groups passed by, both on quads and on horseback. If you’re interested, I guess it’s a fun way to explore the ruins.
Skala De La Ville.
How to reach Essaouira?
Essaouira can only be reached by bus. Supratours station is closest to the center at this location while CTM has its own station slightly further south at this location. Direct connections to Marrakech, Agadir, and Casablanca are fairly frequent while for other destinations within the country you may have to change buses. The local bus station that may come in handy in case you want to reach some destination along the coast between Essaouira and Agadir is located here instead.
Where to sleep in Essaouira?
If you don’t mind being about 15 minutes from the historic center, I strongly recommend Essaouira Beach Hostel. It’s the best hostel of my trip to Morocco. The breakfast buffet is really generous, the common areas nice and spacious, and they have quite a few private rooms. You can also take lessons or rent surfing and kitesurfing equipment directly at the hostel, which is 50 m from the beach.
Port.
Tamraght, Taghazout and Imsouane
Along the coast between Essaouira and Agadir there are quite a few oceanfront towns that attract mostly surfers, but not only them. The most popular among travelers are Tamraght, Taghazout and Imsouane.
What to do and see in Tamraght, Taghazout and Imsouane
If you have no intention of surfing, you’d probably be better off spending your time elsewhere. I stayed a couple of days in Tamraght because I was in no hurry and was planning to visit Paradise Valley, which I talk about below, but the sea, or rather the ocean, is certainly nothing incredible, and neither is the beach that Tamraght and Taghazout share. I haven’t been to Imsouane, but I imagine it’s the same. If you’re looking for a beach destination, I think the Mediterranean coast is much more beautiful.
If you’re interested in surfing, the best waves are between November and March, but as a beginner you can surf all year round. If you’re looking for a school, I got to know the girl from wave-dance, who also runs the hostel where I stayed (V&D Tamraght Surfers Hostel). Roberta is originally from Canton Ticino, so she speaks perfect Italian, and she has lived in Morocco for about 10 years. She seemed like a very kind and helpful person. I also met a girl staying at the school who was taking lessons and seemed extremely happy with them, so even though I can’t speak from personal experience, I’d at least recommend checking it out.
Tamraght and Taghazout beach.
Paradise Valley
According to the information I gathered once I got there, Paradise Valley isn’t much of a Paradise anymore. Apparently, over the years it has turned into a very dirty and often overcrowded place, but some people say it’s still worth a visit. What really put me off was the fact that it hadn’t rained for several months and, again according to what I was told, the natural pools had practically dried up.
In any case, this is the location; maybe take a look at recent reviews before you go, or in any case keep in mind that winter is when there’s the most water. To get there from Tamraght, Taghazout or Agadir by public transport, you can take any bus heading to Aourir. You shouldn’t have to wait long, because in addition to the local buses connecting Essaouira to Agadir there are also lines 31, 32 and 33 of Agadir’s suburban transport (5dh). Once you get off in Aourir, the grand taxis should be more or less at this point (if needed, ask around, the town is really compact) and should cost 20-30 dh per person, about 45 minutes. From what I’ve read, there are also direct grand taxis from Agadir station for about 50 dh. Once you get to the parking lot, it’s about a 15-minute walk down to the main area where the natural pools are located.
Sunset in Tamraght.
How to reach Tamraght, Taghazout and Imsouane?
From Essaouira I recommend taking the first local bus to Agadir; the station is here. During the day they leave roughly every hour, with no fixed schedule. Tell them where you’re headed or, if needed, ask to get off when you reach the village of your choice. For Imsouane you’re dropped off at the junction, where there are usually taxis ready to cover the 8 km or so to the sea; in Taghazout the junction is only 1km away, so you can walk, while the road runs literally right through Tamraght. The bus costs 70 dh. This is one of the rare occasions when I recommend the local bus, because you can basically ask to get off wherever you want, unlike Supratours and CTM, which go straight between Essaouira and Agadir. If you’re coming from Agadir, I recommend doing the same, i.e. taking the local bus to Essaouira; the bus station is here.
Where to sleep in Tamraght, Taghazout, and Imsouane?
I slept at V&D Tamraght Surfers Hostel. The hostel is brand new and has a great terrace. In Taghazout I was recommended Onda Surf, while in Imsouane I’d check out Imsouane Soul Lodge.
Sunset over Tamraght with Taghazout in the distance.
Agadir
Popular mostly with people looking for a vacation at one of the many resorts the city offers (take a look at the stretch of coastline on the Google Maps satellite view to see what I’m talking about), its wide beach isn’t that bad after all, and neither is the marina area.
What to do and see in Agadir
Agadir is perhaps the least fascinating destination of my entire trip to Morocco, and for the average traveler I don’t think it’s worth going there on purpose. It’s a modern city where nothing or almost nothing historical remains because of the earthquake that hit it in 1960, but if for whatever reason you find yourself around here, there are at least a couple of things you can do.
Souk El Had
The Souk El Had is a gigantic indoor market with over 6000 stores. Despite its size it’s relatively easy to navigate. Even if you’re not planning to shop, you can easily spend at least an hour strolling around. A stone’s throw away is the Grande Mosquée d’Agadir; as usual you can’t go in, but the entrance facade isn’t bad.
Souk El Had.
Kasbah
Of the old Kasbah that looks down on Agadir from above, the 1960 earthquake that razed the city to the ground, killing a third of the population, spared only the outer walls, but the view is great. I was happy to walk, but it takes at least an hour from the center and the last stretch is uphill, so if you don’t feel like making the effort you could take a taxi up and then walk down. It should cost 30-50 dh.
Agadir Medina
A few kilometers from the center there’s a reconstruction of what Agadir was like before the devastating earthquake. I imagine it could be interesting if you’re planning to spend two weeks at some resort, but personally I wasn’t interested. This is the location; admission costs 40 dh and a round-trip taxi that waits during the visit should cost about 100 dh.
Prayer at Souk El Had.
Tiout and Taroudant
Around Agadir I was recommended Tiout and Taroudant: the former is famous for its oasis and old Kasbah, while the latter is an ancient walled city that was the capital of the Saadi Sultanate for a short time before it moved to Marrakech. Reaching Tiout by public transport isn’t practical, but there are direct bus connections between Agadir and Taroudant. Alternatively, there are organized tours that visit both towns in a single day for about 350 dh.
Finally, Agadir Birds Valley is a free zoo in the center of town. During my visit it was closed and in any case, according to the reviews, it seems to be in a state of disrepair while Crocoparc (official website) seems to be a nice conservation project dedicated to crocodiles that were present in the country in the wild until the 1970s. The park is out of town but there’s a shuttle service which you can read about on this page.
How to reach Agadir?
Agadir, I believe, is one of the few cities that groups all the bus companies into a single station that is located here. There are very frequent connections to Essaouira and Marrakech but also many other cities in the country.
Where to sleep in Agadir?
Agadir doesn’t offer many options when it comes to budget accommodation. I stayed at Hotel Kamal City Center for about 20€, a private room with en-suite bathroom, pool and breakfast, so all in all not bad at all, but there was a promotion going on, so I imagine it usually costs more. In any case, if you can’t find anything better, I recommend it.
Agadir seen from the old Kasbah.
A quick note first: Aït-Benhaddou, Dadès Gorge, Todra Gorge and Merzouga, the destinations I’m about to talk about, are combined in a really popular three-day, two-night tour departing from Marrakech. During my stay at Mosaic Hostel, practically every morning there was a group of travelers in the hostel participating in this tour. I, of course, took the DIY approach and recommend it not only to save some money but mainly because it gives you a chance to do some trekking in the Dadès Gorge and Todra Gorge. If you couldn’t care less about trekking, just want to see what there is to see and ride in a private van without having to figure out public transportation, or maybe you’re short on time, the tour costs about 100€ and includes transportation, accommodation, breakfast and dinner.
Aït-Benhaddou
Aït-Benhaddou was for years a major fortified village along the route between Marrakech and the Sahara Desert. Today it’s best known above all for its excellent state of preservation and its beauty, which over the years has landed it on numerous movie sets, including Gladiator and Game of Thrones, just to name a couple.
What to do and see in Aït-Benhaddou
In my opinion, the charm of Aït-Benhaddou lies entirely in seeing the village from a distance: perched on the hill, it’s really something unique. Once inside the walls, it feels like being in any other Medina, except that practically nobody lives here anymore and the inhabitants have been replaced by souvenir sellers. Climb to the top of the hill; the view isn’t bad at all, but apart from that there isn’t much else to do or see. A couple of hours at most is all you need.
To get into the village, unless you want to pay the 20dh toll/entrance fee at the “Museum of the Kasbah,” take the footbridge on the left as you look at Aït-Benhaddou, or take the long way around through the fields on the right. Spending the night in Aït-Benhaddou is far from necessary, but seeing the village lit up at dawn is really something special.
A nice vantage point just outside of town is at this location where there’s a rock formation that resembles a frog. That said, in my opinion the best views are from the terraces of hotels and restaurants in town.
Sunrise in Aït-Benhaddou, Chez Bilal Ait Ben Haddou.
How to reach Aït-Benhaddou?
Unless you take a local bus that lets you get off wherever you want, even if you’re coming from Marrakech, you’ll still have to go all the way to Ouarzazate. From there you have at least a couple of options. I let myself be talked into taking a local minibus for 30dh that left from beside the bus station, exactly at this location, between delayed departures and constant stops it took me an hour to cover 30 km. In hindsight I think it’s much better to board the first local bus heading to Marrakech (Ouarzazate station location) and ask to get off at the intersection leading to Aït-Benhaddou (10 dh) or take a grand taxi whose station is located behind the bus station here. I’m not sure there are direct ones (Ouarzazate – Aït-Benhaddou), but there are definitely some that go to the intersection mentioned above; the cost is 15 dh. At the intersection there are other grand taxis waiting, 10dh to go to Aït-Benhaddou. To get back to Ouarzazate, just do the same in reverse. With a bit of luck you might find a direct grand taxi (Aït Benhaddou – Ouarzazate) without having to get off at the intersection. For example, I was trying to hitchhike when a taxi driver stopped and told me he had to go to Ouarzazate with a friend, and after a brief negotiation we agreed on 20dh.
If you want to visit Aït-Benhaddou on a day trip from Ouarzazate and you don’t mind spending a little more, a round-trip taxi that waits a couple of hours for the visit should cost about 150-200 dh.
Where to sleep in Aït-Benhaddou?
I slept at Chez Bilal Ait Ben Haddou: one of the cheapest options I could find turned out to be a great choice, at about 17€ including breakfast. The view from my room was spectacular as was the view from the terrace that serves as a restaurant whose menu, considering the location, is fairly priced. Recommended.
The viewpoint just outside of town.
Ouarzazate
Ouarzazate is the main town along the road to Merzouga, but it’s still fairly compact and not very chaotic by Moroccan standards. Walking through its streets, it’s unlikely you’ll get hassled the way you might elsewhere.
What to do and see in Ouarzazate
I’ve been to Ouarzazate twice, but never for more than a few hours, so my knowledge of the city is limited, to say the least. I was planning to spend a night there but after talking to a couple of travelers I changed my mind and preferred to spend my time elsewhere as the only place I was really interested in visiting was the Kasbah which was closed to the public for restoration at that time. The entrance fee is 20 dh.
If you’re interested, the city is home to two film studios: Cinema Studio Atlas and CLA Studios. Both offer guided tours, admission should cost 50 and 100 dh respectively. CLA Studios is considered the better of the two. You could also visit Oasis de Fint, about 15 km south of Ouarzazate; as the name suggests, it’s a natural oasis rich in flora and fauna in the middle of what is for all intents and purposes a desert landscape. Finally, if you have a car, you could pay a short visit to the Noor solar park, just outside the city; even passing by on the bus you can clearly see its glowing tower in the distance. You can’t visit the plant, but you can still admire this impressive feat of engineering from a distance.
Ouarzazate Kasbah.
How to reach Ouarzazate?
There are daily bus connections from Marrakech, Tinghir, Boumalne Dades (the crossroads for the Dades Gorges), and Merzouga. The only direct bus to and from Merzouga is operated by Supratours whose bus stop is located here beside the Gare Routière which is the local bus station. The Grand Taxi station is exactly behind the Gare Routière here and I believe is the best option for travel to and from Boumalne Dadès (60 dh) or Tinghir (80dh). The CTM station, on the other hand, is a couple of kilometers toward the center here.
Where to sleep in Ouarzazate?
I didn’t sleep in Ouarzazate, but the only cheap option in the center seems to be Hotel Atlas Ouarzazate. There’s a hostel with good reviews (Auberge De la Jeunesse) and an interesting place surrounded by greenery (Bivouac Lot Of Stars) but both are slightly out of town in the direction of Oasis de Fint. In my opinion, worth considering if you have a car.
Sunset in the Dades Gorge.
Dades Gorge
The Dades Gorge is probably my favorite place of my entire trip to Morocco. The contrast between the bright green of the fields at the bottom of the valley and the red rock walls is a real feast for the eyes.
What to do and see in the Dades Gorge
Most visitors simply drive up the road along the valley, stopping at a few viewpoints, above all the “Serpent du Dades,” or Dades Serpent, a series of hairpin bends whose photo is often used to advertise the valley. The viewpoint in question is at this spot. Another nice viewpoint is the one in front of “Les Pattes de Singes,” or monkey’s paws, a really distinctive and iconic rock formation. This is the location.
Trekking in the gorges
If you feel like making a bit of an effort and feeling like an explorer, there are at least two treks you can do around Tamellalt, which in my opinion is the ideal village to use as a base, especially if you don’t have a car. At your guesthouse, or just walking down the street, there’ll be no shortage of people offering to be your guide to explore the gorges; if it makes you feel more comfortable, I certainly won’t be the one to tell you what to do, but I assure you that you can manage on your own, like I did.
Canyon Des Doigts Du Singe.
Canyon Des Doigts Du Singe
This is a relatively popular loop that I absolutely recommend doing, and you’ll find it described in detail on this page. The only correction I’d make is to avoid lengthening the route unnecessarily as shown on the map, so follow only the loop and not the small variant described at the end of the canyon.
If you’re coming from Tamellalt, to reach the entrance to the canyon you can walk along the bottom of the valley through the fields without going back up to the road. Finding the spots where you can cross the streams isn’t always easy, but it’s definitely more pleasant and shorter than the asphalt. Once you enter the gorge, I recommend just following the stream bed to this point (31.451859, -5.956731). Here you have to climb the wall on the left and follow the path that runs high up; continuing on the bottom of the gorge becomes complicated/impossible. In places you have to crouch or climb over rocks to make your way through the gorge; I found it extremely fun and the scenery along the way is incredible. One of the most beautiful trails I’ve ever done. It took me about 4 hours to complete the loop starting from Tamellalt. If it has rained recently, or even if there’s a risk of heavy rain, given the nature of the trail, partly along a narrow gorge, I’d avoid it.
The end of the gorge.
Canyon de Sidi Boubkere
This is the other gorge easily accessible from Tamellalt; you’ll find the route described on this page. The trail runs high up and isn’t always obvious; at some point it becomes dangerous to go on, so keep going as long as you feel comfortable. The views of the gorge are fantastic. Alternatively, you can follow the trail along the bottom of the gorge, but after a while you reach a point where the water is too deep to continue. If you want, you could go for a swim.
Finally, even just walking among the fields near Tamellalt without necessarily going up the gorges is a pleasant experience and accessible to anyone.
Canyon de Sidi Boubkere
Where to sleep in the Dades Gorge?
Especially if you don’t have a car, I recommend sleeping in or around Tamellalt. I personally stayed at Maison D’hote Amazir, one of the cheapest options around; the rooms are a bit dated but clean, the elderly owner is really kind and the food is great. The view from the terrace is probably the best in the village. A slightly more expensive option that had been recommended to me by more than one person is Monkey Fingers by Fatima Mellal.
How to reach the Dades Gorge?
The first step is to reach Boumalne Dades, where the road that goes up the valley of the Dades Gorge starts. Boumalne Dades is also an official CTM stop, so you could take the bus, but if you’re coming from Ouarzazate or Tinghir and don’t want to fit your plans around the few daily buses, I think it’s much more practical to take a grand taxi. As mentioned several times, the Grand Taxi station in Ouarzazate is right behind the Gare Routière here, and a seat costs 60 dh, while from Tinghir grand taxis cost 25 dh; the grand taxi station in Tinghir is here. Once you arrive at the Boumalne Dades Grand Taxi station here you could either take another Grand Taxi to Tamellalt, which should cost about 20 dh, or walk a few hundred meters to the roundabout where the turnoff for the Dades Gorge is, and hitchhike. That’s what I did, and after about three minutes someone gave me a ride. To get back to Boumalne Dades I was planning to do the same, but I was even luckier, because the hotel owner had to go down the valley that very day, so he gave me a ride in his car. If you don’t want to hitchhike, there are also local minibuses that go back and forth frequently. In any case, there’s only one road, you either go up or down, so finding a ride is really easy.
Sunrise in Tamellalt, Maison D’hote Amazir.
Tinghir and Todra Gorges
Tinghir, or Tinerhir, isn’t a particularly interesting town, but it’s the gateway to the popular Todra Gorges and is therefore often included as a stop before continuing on to Merzouga.
What to do and see in Tinghir
As I just said, Tinghir is mostly used as a base for exploring the Todra Gorge, but if you have some time left over or decide to stay longer, you could visit the Ikalalne Mosque located on the other side of the river. It’s an old, disused mosque that you can visit. The gatekeeper at the entrance is more than willing to offer a “guided tour.”
Tinghir seen from the terrace of Hike and Chill Hostel.
Todra Gorge
Many people just make a quick stop at the iconic narrows, where the majestic vertical walls of red rock are no more than a hundred meters apart, but if you have the time and feel like it, I strongly recommend doing the loop hike described on this page.
I did the trek with an English guy and a Canadian man in his sixties I’d met at the hostel, so we took it really slowly, also because we started walking around noon, so it was pretty hot on the way up. It took us almost 5 hours, but given the many breaks, I think you can easily complete it in 3-4 hours. It’s a really pleasant loop with great views of the surrounding area.
The Canadian man had a rental car, so we didn’t need to take any taxis, but if you’re not as lucky, here you can take a grand taxi to the gorge for 10dh. If you also arrive by car, there’s ample parking at the spot where I marked the beginning of the trail.
Entrance to the Todra Gorge.
Climbing
The Todra Gorge is also a particularly popular place for climbing. There are hundreds of routes for all levels. Aventure Verticale is the go-to company: they were the first to build a climbing business here and, from what I was told, they maintain many of the routes they opened themselves. They offer lessons and guided ascents, as well as the option of just renting the gear. There are also proper via ferrata routes. The day before the trek, the Canadian man told me he’d done a via ferrata with a guide contacted through the hostel, paying 150 dh, and he’d loved it.
Finally, in the evening when we got back to the hostel, the owner, Jamal, took us to a hammam (a kind of Turkish bath) where for 100 dh we got an exfoliating treatment and a massage. Unfortunately I don’t have the exact location, because I got in the car with nothing but my towel, but even though you can have the hammam experience anywhere in the country, if you happen to sleep at Hike and Chill Hostel and haven’t tried it yet, I recommend it.
Two climbers in the Todra Gorge.
How to reach Tinghir?
Tinghir has daily bus connections from Marrakech, Ouarzazate, Boumalne Dades, and Merzouga. CTM buses stop here, while, though I’m not sure, Supratours (the only one with a daily bus to Merzouga) should stop here. The local bus station is here near the grand taxi station.
Where to sleep in Tinghir?
I recommend Hike and Chill Hostel. The hostel is clean, and the breakfast is great, as is the view from the terrace. The owner Jamal is a really hospitable guy and a great cook.
Trekking in Todra Gorge.
Merzouga
Merzouga is considered the go-to town for anyone who wants to venture into the Sahara Desert.
What to do and see in Merzouga
Many people, me included, just pass through Merzouga, staying only long enough to do the desert tour. I was planning to spend at least one night in town, but for convenience I preferred to take advantage of a guaranteed ride in the car of my dear Canadian friend, who was in a hurry to get back to Casablanca. In any case, if you decide to stay, there are at least a couple of things you could do.
For example, you could walk to Lake Dayet Srij, which is only a couple of kilometers from Merzouga. It’s a seasonal lake, so if you visit the region too late in the season it may be completely dry, but otherwise, among the many bird species, you can see flamingos. Or you could climb to the top of the Grand Dune for sunrise or sunset. Finally, for motor enthusiasts, you can rent quads and motocross bikes to race up and down the dunes.
Sunset in the desert.
Desert tours
There are options for all tastes, budgets and lengths, but let’s say the “standard tour” involves setting off by camel from Merzouga in the late afternoon, with a stop to watch the sunset from the dunes before heading to the camp. In the evening, after dinner, traditional music is played around the campfire under the starry sky. In the morning you have breakfast and then ride a camel back to Merzouga. You can take a small backpack with you on the camel, while the bulk of your luggage goes on a jeep that waits for you at the camp. I arranged everything with Mustafa Camp Merzouga and all in all I recommend it. The tents were clean, and so were the bathrooms, complete with showers, and the food wasn’t bad at all. I paid 30€ all inclusive, except for water. You can contact them via their website or on WhatsApp at +212 666-766093. Let’s be clear: you can definitely spend less, or have a more luxurious or more remote experience (you don’t get very far from Merzouga), but for us it was more than fine. Other travelers had given me the contact a few weeks earlier, so I made arrangements with Mustafa via WhatsApp, and once we arrived in town in the afternoon, everything was already organized and we set off on the tour.
Milky Way.
How to reach Merzouga?
As I wrote earlier, I was lucky enough to meet a Canadian man in Tinghir who had more or less the same plans and gave me a ride in his rental car, so I reached Merzouga comfortably seated in his car. In any case, the only bus that directly connects Merzouga to Marrakech and all the other destinations in between (Tinghir, Ouarzazate and Boumalne Dades) leaves once a day at 8:00 and is run by Supratours. The alternative is to take a Grand Taxi from Tinghir to Errachidia/Rissani/Arfoud and then another one to Merzouga. With a bit of luck you might only have to change taxis once. It’s also worth knowing that, depending on your itinerary, there’s an interesting direct night bus from Fes, or alternatively you could take the CTM bus to Rissani and then a grand taxi to Merzouga. If you want, you could break up the journey by spending the night in Rissani, which apparently isn’t that bad. You can find some information on this page.
Where to sleep in Merzouga?
I personally didn’t spend the night in Merzouga but two guys had strongly recommended Le Gout Du Sahara (formerly Hostel Hassan) to me and looking at the reviews I’m not at all surprised by their enthusiasm.
Traditional music around the bonfire.
Other destinations to consider
So far I’ve talked about the destinations I visited during my trip, but obviously there’s much more to see, so below I list some interesting places.
Plage Lagzira
Lagzira Beach, with its iconic natural arches, is considered one of the most picturesque beaches in the country. I met a French couple who had been there recently and described it enthusiastically. You can find extremely precise directions on how to get there from Agadir in this article.
The Valley of Roses
The Valley of Roses is along the road from Ouarzazate to the Dades Gorge and can be a nice way to break up the journey even more, or simply to visit an area slightly off the main tourist circuits. If you’re interested, you’ll find an interesting article on this page.
Alnif, Tazzarine and Draa Valley
Especially if you’re getting around by car, after doing the classic Aït-Benhaddou – Dades Gorge – Todra Gorge – Merzouga route, you might decide to head back toward Marrakech by taking the long way around to the south, visiting Alnif, Tazzarine and the Draa Valley. In Alnif there’s an important fossil deposit, and there are at least a couple of shops that sell finds and offer guided tours. In Tazzarine, on the other hand, there are tombs of Muslim saints and the Ait Ouazik site, with rock paintings dating back some 7000 years. Finally, along the Draa Valley there are numerous kasbahs you can visit and other activities you can read about on this page.
El Jadida
El Jadida is a small coastal town just over an hour from Casablanca. Here you can visit the cistern built by the Portuguese and the Plage Haouzia beach where you can see a wreck called the Moroccan Titanic. Overall, this should be a pleasant town to spend a day or two in.
Al Hoceima and Nador
Al Hoceima and Nador are two popular destinations along the Mediterranean coast. Around them you’ll find some of the most beautiful beaches in Morocco. If you’re looking for a beach destination, these are probably the best options Morocco has to offer.
Suggested itineraries in Morocco
Visiting all the places described would take almost two months. Considering that many people don’t have that much time, below I list a few itineraries you can use as a starting point to build your own itinerary based on your interests and on what I’ve described so far. If you only have one weekend available, choosing just one city, Marrakech or Fes, is probably the best option.
Itineraries of 3-4 days in Morocco
For a 3-4 day trip to Morocco I’d opt to visit a maximum of two cities. Clearly it depends a lot on the airport you arrive at but some ideas might be as follows. If you fly into Fes you could include a night in Chefchaouen or nearby Meknes, my preference is definitely for the blue city. For flights to Marrakech, you could spend a night in Essaouira; if you have four days and three nights, you could do a short stay in the city and join the 2-night, three-day tour mentioned in the guide (Aït-Benhaddou, Dadès Gorge, Todra Gorge and Merzouga). If you fly to Tangier I recommend including a night in Chefchaouen. Finally, if you fly to Casablanca or Agadir, I’d spend one night there at most and then the rest of the time in Marrakech.
5-day itinerary in Morocco
For a 5-day trip to Morocco, what I said for a 3-4 day itinerary still applies: as a rule, no more than two cities. If you fly into Marrakech, I think including the 2-night, 3-day tour (Aït-Benhaddou, Dadès Gorge, Todra Gorge and Merzouga) is a great idea.
One-week itinerary in Morocco
With a week to spare, many options open up. In the north of the country, if you fly to Fes, you could visit the city and then continue north to Chefchaouen, Tangier, and perhaps Tetouan. Alternatively you could go clockwise via Meknes and Rabat before reaching Tangier but personally I’d always include Chefchaouen.
In the south of the country, if you fly to Marrakech I’d definitely do the classic route to the desert (Aït-Benhaddou, Dadès Gorge, Todra Gorge and Merzouga) and then probably choose another destination between Essaouira, Casablanca and Imlil depending on your interests.
Two-week itinerary in Morocco
With two weeks to spare you could simply combine the two one-week itineraries just described.
Three-week itinerary in Morocco
For a three-week trip to Morocco you can complete the circuit in the north of the country and the one in the south at a fairly relaxed pace and include a few other destinations in between, such as Rabat and Casablanca. Broadly speaking I’d do what is described in the map below.
One-month itinerary in Morocco
With a month or more, if you move quickly you can more or less visit most of the destinations described in this guide. The itinerary I recommend following to make the most of your travel time is the one shown in the map above.
How to get around Morocco
First of all, I strongly recommend downloading Organic Maps. I’ve been using these precious offline maps for many years and I think they’re particularly useful in Morocco, where, unlike Google Maps, the maps are detailed even inside the various medinas and let you navigate what can sometimes feel like real mazes without any major problems.
Also, as you may have noticed, throughout the guide I’ve often only mentioned the location of the train station and the CTM bus station. That’s because for most journeys between two destinations I advise against using other means of transport. Another punctual and reliable bus company is Supratours, which is partly state-owned and basically helps fill the gaps in the rail network, so the Supratours bus station is generally right next to the train station, and you can also buy combo tickets (train + bus), which is very convenient if you need to reach a destination whose route is only partly covered by the rail network.
Taxi to the Caves of Hercules.
Trains in Morocco
Trains, where present, are generally the best option for moving between destinations. I always bought my ticket directly at the station and never had any problems finding a seat but if you wish you can buy online or otherwise check the departure times on the ONCF website. The main cities of tourist interest connected to the rail network are: Marrakech, Casablanca, Rabat, Meknes, Fez, and Tangier. As mentioned earlier, there’s also high-speed rail between Casablanca and Tangier.
Buses in Morocco
As I mentioned, the two bus companies I recommend using are Supratours (if you have a problem with the website you can just use the ONCF one) and CTM. The buses are comfortable and especially punctual. You can easily check departure times online and at least in the case of CTM, buying your ticket online is easy and convenient. Supratours and CTM generally have their own private terminals which are not to be confused with the Gare Routière from where the “local buses” depart. The latter mostly cover the same routes and are slightly cheaper but can be a real nightmare: departures without precise schedules, buses in poor condition, and constant stops to drop off and pick up people at any point along the way. Let me be clear, I’ve traveled in worse conditions and it’s certainly not the end of the world, but when possible, I strongly recommend traveling by train, and if you have to take the bus, CTM and Supratours are much better. The only real advantage of local buses is that they stop everywhere, so if needed you can get on and off even in the middle of nowhere, which in some cases can be really convenient.
If for any reason you have to take a local bus from the station, 9 times out of 10, the moment you walk in or even just get near it, you’ll be approached by someone ready to sell you the ticket you need. It can be useful for finding your way through the chaos, but know that the same ticket probably costs less if you buy it directly at the ticket office inside the station. It’s also good to know that if you’re traveling with a large backpack/suitcase that you can’t take on board, as a rule, with any bus company, each piece that goes in the luggage hold costs 5dh.
Casablanca train station.
Taxis in Morocco
There are two types of taxis in Morocco: grand taxis (large taxis) and petits taxis (small taxis). Grand taxis mentioned several times in this guide are comparable to colectivos in Latin America i.e., taxis, usually seven-seat minivans, that cover certain routes for a fixed price and leave only when they’re full (or someone pays the missing fare). While slightly more expensive than buses, they’re much more practical in many situations. Pretty much every city has a proper “grand taxi station” where there’s a small ticket office with someone to take note of who has to go where, and arrange departures. In the larger stations there are actual platforms numbered according to destination, and you are given a token to hand to the driver before departure to show that you have already paid for the ride.
Petits taxis, on the other hand, are traditional taxis that cover short distances within cities. By law they have meters but especially in tourist places they refuse to use them. In that case it’s essential to agree on the price before getting in and to assume they’re trying to rip you off. Getting more than 50% off the initial price isn’t that unusual. Ideally you’d do well to ask how much a particular route costs at your hostel/hotel. In some cities, such as Essaouira, taxis within city limits have a fixed price wherever you go. In the case of Essaouira it’s 7dh during the day and 10 dh at night.
Hitchhiking in Morocco
Hitchhiking in Morocco is not only possible but also relatively easy. I did it on three occasions and never waited more than 5 minutes. Likewise, I met other travelers who used it successfully. If you want to use the local style, instead of sticking out your thumb, use your index finger to point in the direction you are headed. This is the same signal used by locals to stop buses and grand taxis. Basically, whenever you need a ride, put out your index finger!
Our guide in the desert.
Renting a car in Morocco
Renting a car to get around Morocco is definitely a valid option. The roads are mostly in good condition and the traffic, except in the big cities, isn’t bad at all. I met more than a few travelers who had chosen this option, and I even scrounged a few generous rides. Obviously, especially if you’re traveling alone, the costs go up quite a bit, but the freedom a car gives you is certainly not to be underestimated. In case you’re wondering, with an Italian driving license you can drive in Morocco for up to three months (the rules may differ depending on where your license was issued, so check yours). If you want to take a look at a car rental aggregator, you can check out discovercars.
Another vehicle that seems to be extremely popular especially in the desert area is the motorcycle. I lost count of the groups of motorcyclists I came across between Marrakech and Merzouga. Gorges, hairpin bends and low precipitation seem to be a sought-after combination for two-wheeled enthusiasts.
Domestic flights in Morocco
During my trip I didn’t take any domestic flights, but they can be a valid option for those who are short on time and want to cover long distances, such as the Fez – Marrakech route. If booked in advance, flights can be quite cheap. Royal Air Maroc and Air Arabia Maroc are the main airlines.
Todra Gorge.
Backpacking Morocco: costs
How much does a trip to Morocco cost? Over the course of my six-week trip (43 days to be precise) I spent exactly 1046.12€, or just over 24€ per day. On top of that, there were the Treviso – Fez flight at 14.99€ and Marrakech – Treviso at 37.88€ with RyanAir, without checked luggage (you can see exactly what I packed in this video (in Italian, but you can turn on the subtitles)), and finally Globelink travel insurance for 61.02€. So in total the trip cost me 1160€. Obviously, for a short trip where you maybe move around more often, the costs go up, and likewise not everyone is willing to travel on a budget like I do, but I assure you I never went without anything, and in general Morocco is undoubtedly a cheap destination.
Cost of accommodation in Morocco
Except for Casablanca and Agadir, I’d say that on average I spent around 10€ per night for accommodation. The main tourist destinations have a wide selection of hostels that keep competition high and prices low, but you still end up paying about 8-10€ for a dorm bed in a good hostel, while outside the big cities I had quite a few private rooms in guesthouses and small hotels for around 10-15€ per night. If you travel as a couple, you can get private rooms almost anywhere for 20-30€ per night, i.e. 10-15€ per person.
Cost of transportation in Morocco
Overland transportation is quite cheap by European standards. As a general rule you pay 2-3€ per hour of travel by bus/train while grand taxis are slightly more expensive and let’s say around 4-5€ per hour of travel.
In the alleys of Tetouan.
Cost of food in Morocco
Moroccan food is not only delicious but also pretty cheap. Obviously it depends on what kind of restaurant you’re looking for, but if you’re not too fussy, a tagine or a couscous, which are never missing from the menu, costs 30-70 dh depending on where you are and whether the main course is part of a set menu or not. For example, the fixed price for dinner in many guesthouses is 70 dh, but it also includes a starter (often harira, also known as Moroccan soup, or a salad) and dessert. The same goes for the menu of the day offered by some restaurants in town.
I don’t think couscous needs any introduction, while tajine is the name of the traditional cone-shaped earthenware pot. In general, any dish cooked in that pot is called a tajine. Vegetables are almost always added to the main ingredient, such as chicken, and it’s served with bread.
Finally, although Morocco is an Islamic country, you can still buy alcohol in the big cities. Prices are slightly inflated, but if you go to the supermarket it’s not that bad. Carrefour, which you’ll find pretty much all over the country, generally has a department dedicated to alcoholic beverages and I recommend it even if you have to do normal shopping. The prices of fruits and vegetables in some cases are comparable to those at the market, you can find a little bit of everything there, and you can pay by card. Carrefour was undoubtedly my supermarket of choice especially during the first part of the trip in the middle of Ramadan when I often went to buy lunch at noon.
A chicken tajine.
Other costs (ATM withdrawals and SIM cards)
Let’s start with ATM fees, which you can bring down to zero by using the best cards for traveling. In fact, Al Barid Bank lets you withdraw without fees. It’s the bank of the Moroccan post office (Poste Maroc), so there are branches just about everywhere in the country. I always withdrew money here. As far as I know, all the other banks charge 20-30 dh per withdrawal.
As for SIM cards, there are three providers in the country: Orange, Inwi and Maroc Telecom. If you’re only visiting a few cities, any of them will do, but once you reach some of the more remote areas, Maroc Telecom has better coverage. There were more than a few occasions when I had signal while other travelers with Orange didn’t. I got my SIM at an official store, registering it in my name (bring your passport), for 10 dh. Data basically costs 10 dh per GB: 50 dh for the 5 GB package, 100 dh for 10 GB and so on. Some people sell SIMs on the street, but from what I was told they sometimes stop working for no reason.
If you have a phone that supports eSIMs and want the convenience of being online right away without having to buy a local SIM, I recommend using a service like the ones offered by Airalo and Ubigi. If you go for this option, though, there are at least a couple of things to keep in mind. First of all, with rare exceptions, data costs much more than it would with a local SIM; secondly, their local partner isn’t always the one with the best coverage in the country.
Basically, I think most travelers would be better off buying a local SIM (or maybe trying to buy an eSIM from a local provider), but think it over for yourself, as there’s no shortage of exceptions. For example, when I visited Japan, the plan offered by Ubigi was cheaper than any local SIM I could buy without proving I was a resident.
Blue door in Chefchaouen.
Backpacking Morocco: safety
Is Morocco a safe country? Obviously it depends a lot on what you mean by safe, but in general Morocco doesn’t have the kind of security problems found in other parts of the world. Crime rates are only slightly higher than in Italy. I met plenty of solo female travelers as well as entire families with children in tow. Despite the bad experience I had indirectly in Chefchaouen, I never felt in danger during my trip; most Moroccans are kind and hospitable people. Obviously you need to use common sense, as anywhere else in the world, but if you follow my tips, I doubt you’ll have any problems. The only issue worth highlighting is the one related to scams, or at any rate a “medium level” of persistence and, in some cases, aggressiveness toward tourists, which puts Morocco in first place in this special personal ranking. Being constantly approached as you walk the streets of a tourist destination by someone who wants to sell you this or that, supposed guides who want to offer you their services, kids who offer to walk you somewhere just to practice the language and then end up asking you for money for accompanying you, and a thousand other situations that can drive you to exasperation is unfortunately all too common. I think it’s a real shame, because it often leads travelers to ignore any local who approaches them, even when that person has good intentions. Let me be clear, I don’t want to discourage anyone from visiting the country, but this is the reality, or at least what my experience was, and I think it’s better to arrive prepared.
Finally, if you’re planning to climb to the top of Toubkal, and therefore trek above 3500 meters, the only two insurers that cover this activity (as far as I know) are World Nomads which allows you to insure trekking up to 6000 meters (by adding it as an extra activity as shown on this page) and TrueTraveller which by adding the “Extreme Pack” package offers coverage for trekking above 4600m. As I said before, most other insurers stop at 3500 meters, some even lower.
Are you planning a trip to Morocco? Check out these posts:
Which travel backpack to choose
Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!
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