Vietnam Travel Guide

The hospitality of the people, the surreal landscapes that change dramatically from north to south, the temples and, last but not least, a cuisine that’s nothing short of delicious make Vietnam one of my favorite countries in Southeast Asia.

Over two trips—on one of which I crossed the country from north to south on a motorbike—I spent a total of two months in Vietnam, always backpacking. Whether you want to do the same or just do some research before relying on an organized tour, in this guide you’ll find plenty of useful tips and information to plan your trip as best you can.

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Mu Cang Chai.

When to visit Vietnam

Vietnam is a country with a wide range of climates that vary significantly from north to south and depending on altitude. Still, there are a few months of the year that can be considered ideal for visiting the entire country.

In fact, the months from September to December (autumn) and from March to April (spring) are the best time to go to Vietnam and avoid the monsoon rains that characterize the rest of the year.

Here’s an overview of the climate by region:

Southern Vietnam

The dry season runs from late November/December to late April and is marked by hot, sunny days. The rainy season, from May to November, brings downpours that are often concentrated in the afternoon or evening, so it isn’t necessarily an obstacle to your visit.

Tea plantations in Moc Chau.

Central Vietnam

The rainy season generally runs from September/October to December. In some areas, like Hue or Hoi An, the rains can continue into January or February, with a risk of flooding, especially in the autumn months. The typhoon season along the central coast is from August to November, with the possibility of strong winds and heavy rainfall. The best time to visit this region is between February and July, when the weather is more stable.

Northern Vietnam

The best time to visit is from October to November, with pleasant temperatures and sunny days. December is cooler, but still good. From January to March, it starts getting colder, with temperatures that can drop below 10°C in the mountainous regions (like Sapa or Ha Giang). The dry season lasts from November to April, while the rainy season runs from May to September, with increased humidity and possible flooding in the mountain areas.

Ha Giang Loop.

Documents and vaccinations to enter Vietnam

Since 15 August 2023, Italian passport holders can visit the country without needing a visa for up to 45 days, a full 30 days more than the 15 days granted in the past (the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours). Also starting from that date, you can get a single- or multiple-entry tourist visa online (“e-visa”) for stays of up to 90 days. The visa must be applied for through the official platform.

Vietnam doesn’t require any mandatory vaccinations, but Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B are always recommended. For up-to-date information on visas and so on, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).

Bai Dinh Pagoda.

What to do and see in Vietnam

In this guide, prices are given in the local currency. The official currency of Vietnam is the “Vietnamese dong,” abbreviated as “VND” or simply “D”.

The exchange rate is about 1€ = 29,000 VND. For the current rate, I recommend taking a look at this page.

Note: throughout the guide you’ll often find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly in the AllTrails app, you need to upgrade to the Pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.

Hanoi

The capital of Vietnam, and the country’s second largest city in terms of population after Ho Chi Minh City, is a truly fascinating city that combines the ancient with the modern, oriental architecture with French architecture dating back to the colonial period, a city of contrasts that, unlike other Southeast Asian capitals, is definitely worth a visit.

What to do and see in Hanoi

Hanoi is chaotic and hectic, a perfect example of the typical Southeast Asian city where scooters and motorcycles whiz by in what appears to be organized chaos. This in itself is a really interesting experience for those who have never experienced anything like it. As in any big city, you could join a free walking tour; I booked one on Guru Walk that wasn’t too bad.

Welcoming Morning Sunlight Bridge.

Historic district of Hanoi

That said, in addition to walking the city streets and savoring the local culture, especially within the old quarter (where most tourist accommodations are located), I recommend visiting the Temple of Literature (Google Maps). Founded in 1070, it became the country’s first university six years later. The entire structure and the inner courtyard are worth the visit, 70,000 VND. A short distance away you could also visit Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum (Google Maps); admission is free but be prepared for long lines, especially on weekends, and dress properly—shorts and tank tops aren’t allowed. Also a short distance away, you could visit the imperial citadel (Google Maps); although I’ve been to Hanoi more than a few times, what with one thing and another, I’ve never visited it, so I can’t speak from personal experience, but it’s often recommended.

A couple of temples worth visiting are the Bach Ma (Google Maps), which is the oldest in the city, and the more iconic Ngoc Son (Google Maps), located on the small island in Hoan Kiem Lake, though I never went inside (Google Maps). If it’s something you’re interested in, across the street is the theater where the popular water puppet show takes place (Google Maps) (official website).

Train Street.

Train Street has become a real attraction in Hanoi. Honestly, I don’t think there’s anything that exceptional about it, but if you’re interested, access is now regulated and the only official entrance is at this point (Google Maps). Technically, you have to sit in one of the various bars/restaurants while you wait for the train to arrive. A somewhat less popular alternative is located slightly further south at this point (Google Maps). On this page, you’ll find the schedules of the various trains.

Other areas of interest in the historic district could be the Long Bien Bridge, which you can see from the station (Google Maps). Built between 1899 and 1902 during French colonial rule, it was one of the first steel bridges in Southeast Asia. Near there is also the Đồng Xuân market (Google Maps).

Lastly, I went to Hoa Lo Prison (Google Maps), also known as the Hanoi Hilton, first used for political prisoners during the French occupation and later during the Vietnam War for U.S. prisoners. Although in my opinion you get a good dose of propaganda, the visit was still interesting; admission costs 30,000 VND and the audio guide another 100,000 VND.

Long Bien Bridge.

Out-of-town excursions

Around Hanoi there are a number of “handicraft villages” (Tho Ha, Thu Sy, Phu Lang, Ban Yen Nhan, and Quang Phu Cau) that specialize in the production of rice paper, pottery, incense, soy sauce and so on. I’ve never visited any of these villages, but I know that tours are offered right from Hanoi, and I imagine that for some people it might be an interesting visit. The same goes for the tea plantations in Long Cốc, although those are definitely farther away.

Pub Street.

Where to stay in Hanoi?

On my last trip to Hanoi, I stayed at three different hostels, and I’d recommend all of them. Bông Hà Nội hostel is conveniently located near the stop for Bus 17 to the airport. Cheers Hostel Hanoi is right in the heart of the Old Quarter, just a short walk from the cathedral. TrangTien Hostel has a decidedly less social atmosphere than the other two, but if you’re simply looking for a place to rest that’s still not too far from the center, the capsule beds are really spacious and comfortable.

How to get to Hanoi?

The airport is connected to the city center by several bus routes. I arrived very late in the evening, and while looking for Express Bus 86, which connects the airport to the train station (Google Maps), I was approached by a driver operating a bus without a number who simply said, “same same.” I paid 50,000 VND. Other options, depending on where you’re staying in Hanoi, include Bus 7, which goes to Kim Ma Station (Google Maps); Bus 17, which goes to Long Bien Station (Google Maps); and Bus 90, which goes to Cat Linh Metro Station (Google Maps). These buses should cost only 9,000 VND. Finally, you could simply take a Grab. If you’re traveling light, you could also walk out of the airport and call a mototaxi—I actually traveled that way in the opposite direction when I left the country.

Hanoi.

Ha Giang

The city of Ha Giang is nothing more than the ideal base for tackling the famous Ha Giang Loop. This loop, usually completed by motorbike or scooter over three, four or five days, offers breathtaking views in the north of the country, all the way to the border with China. While it has become relatively popular and is certainly no longer a hidden gem, I still can’t recommend it enough. It’s truly a beautiful experience.

Most travelers end up booking an organized tour directly in Hanoi that includes literally everything: transportation to Ha Giang, accommodations, food, an easy rider (the driver who rides the scooter), etc. If you don’t know how to ride or simply don’t have much experience on two wheels (the roads are mostly in good condition, but at least in 2023 there were still some stretches waiting to be paved), don’t have an international driver’s license and don’t want to deal with the police (they stop everyone across the board to scrape up money), want a much more social experience or simply want everything organized, the tour is definitely the best option, and the costs aren’t high at all. If you’d like, you can join a tour for the organization and the social side but still ride yourself. Some people go for this solution because, even without an international driver’s license, you can get through the checkpoints riding with an easy rider and then go back to riding as normal. In any case, a friend of mine took the tour with Hong Hao Hostel and Motorbikes and had a great time.

Ha Giang Loop.

That said, I’ll share a little anecdote: On the last night of the loop, I was sitting at dinner with a German guy and a father and son from Switzerland, also independent travelers. In the distance, we could hear an organized group toasting noisily. The gentleman commented on how happy he was that it was just us as guests in the guesthouse. He added that every night, he hoped not to have to share lodging with one of these organized groups.

Clearly, it’s not for me to tell people how to travel, and I fully understand that for a thousand different reasons, many may prefer the organized tour. However, personally, I can only agree with his sentiments. Moreover, if you decide to go DIY, you could take a few extra days and venture off the classic route by riding to the Ban Gioc Waterfall, as I did, which I’ll briefly describe below.

If you choose the organized tour, the only advice I’d give is to go for at least four days and three nights. As for the rest, just enjoy the scenery!

Ha Giang Loop.

Ha Giang Loop DIY itinerary

Before diving into the details of the itinerary, I think it’s worth mentioning a few words about the police situation. As mentioned earlier, the police along the Ha Giang loop are particularly strict but also very corrupt. I personally saw three different checkpoints and spoke to a group of about twenty Slovaks, all of whom lacked international driver’s licenses. After being stopped, they each paid around 100€ to be able to keep riding. We’re talking about serious money which, in case it needs saying, goes straight into the officers’ pockets. The “profession” has become so lucrative that, according to what a local told me, to join the police in Ha Giang province you have to pay tens of thousands of euros to whichever corrupt official happens to be in charge.

Basically, unless you want to “force” the checkpoints or end up paying the “fine,” you’d better have an international driver’s license. The chances of doing the whole loop without ever running into the police are really low. If you’re already abroad or simply want to get it online, you can do so on this site. If you decide to take the risk and receive a ticket, I was told a kind of “pass” is issued that is valid for a few days, to be shown if the police ask for more money. I know, it’s crazy!

Ha Giang Loop.

Below is the itinerary I recommend. If you don’t have five days to devote to the loop, from Yen Minh, you could go directly to Meo Vac, skipping Lung Cu Flag Point. Another option to save one more day is to head straight back to Ha Giang from Meo Vac without going through Du Gia. Basically, you can literally create whatever itinerary you like and change it as you go. Between doing the loop clockwise or counterclockwise, the possible combinations of stops, viewpoints, accommodations and so on are practically endless. For example, if you do the loop on the weekend, there’s a Sunday market in Dong Van or Meo Vac. Similarly, every year from the 25th to the 27th of the third lunar month (usually between April and May), the Khau Vai Love Market takes place.

Ha Giang Loop.

Day 1 Ha Giang Loop (Ha Giang – Yen Minh)

The night before starting the loop, I stayed at Hong Hao Hostel and Motorbikes, which I recommend. I rented a semi-automatic scooter directly at the hostel. I’d advise against automatic scooters, though, because there are lots of ups and downs, and gears are really handy around here. If you take an automatic scooter, make sure it has good brakes. If you like, you can leave some of your things at the hostel. Start riding toward Bac Sum Pass (Google Maps). This stretch of road offers loads of spectacular views, and you could simply stop along the road; I made a short stop at Coffee View (Google Maps). A little further on there are some fields full of flowers (Google Maps). Nothing special, and they charge an entrance fee, but you can take a look from the road. Continue toward the “Gate of Heaven,” or Quan Ba Heaven Gate (Google Maps). Another nice viewpoint, and there’s also a small café with a lovely viewing terrace (Google Maps). From here, continue to another viewpoint nearby, Fairy Bosom Mountain Viewpoint (Google Maps); if you like, you could simply stop along the road a little further on, the view is more or less the same (Google Maps).

Ha Giang Loop.

Afterward, I visited Lung Khuy Cave (Google Maps). You have to park at this spot (Google Maps), where they charge 5,000 VND for parking, and then continue on foot for about half an hour. You absolutely don’t need a guide: the trail is easy to follow and even mapped on Organic Maps. The entrance fee to the cave is 30,000 VND. Nothing exceptional, but definitely pretty, and on top of that many organized tours don’t seem to visit it, so there were very few people.

Lung Khuy Cave.

From here you have two options to reach Yen Minh: I took the old road that passes by the Lonely Tree (Google Maps). This is also the shortest route; it was getting late, so I didn’t really have a choice. If you decide to take this road, you can stop for a drink at CLOUDY Cafe & camping chill chill (Google Maps). That said, if you like, you can take the long way around on the main road. Along the way there’s a pine forest where people often stop for a break (Google Maps). In Yen Minh I stayed at Milk Milk Homestay; I arrived without a reservation and they gave me a private room for the same price as the dorm. That day there were only two other guests, so the atmosphere was very quiet. Excellent buffet dinner.

Ha Giang Loop.

Day 2 Ha Giang Loop (Yen Minh – Dong Van)

If possible, leave Yen Minh early in the morning to get ahead of the organized tours. The first stop along the road could be Coffee Dốc Thẩm Mã (Google Maps), where there’s a nice viewpoint over the hairpin bends of the road you’ve just ridden. Then continue to the Chín Khoanh Ramp viewpoint (Google Maps), which has a great view over the valley; a little further on there’s another nice viewpoint (Google Maps). From here, a popular stop is the Dong Van Plateau (Google Maps), where an expanse of rocks creates a sort of lunar landscape. Not far away is the Dinh Vua Mèo Fort (Google Maps). Honestly, there’s not much to see; the interior is mostly bare and lacks information. The entrance fee is 30,000 VND.

Dinh Vua Mèo Fort.

From the fort, I recommend the detour toward Lung Cu Flag Point (Google Maps). The road is pleasant and the view from the top isn’t bad at all. The entrance fee is 40,000 VND. If you have time, I also recommend riding to the northernmost point of Vietnam (Google Maps); on the other side of the valley is China. Spend the night in Dong Van. I stayed in the dorm at Hotel Van Anh. Nothing special, but more than fine for one night. If you arrive early, you could go and watch the sunset from the French Fort (Google Maps), which overlooks Dong Van from above. Otherwise, you could pop up there the following morning.

Lung Cu Flag Point.

Day 3 Ha Giang Loop (Dong Van – Meo Vac)

Many consider this the most spectacular stretch of the loop. Just outside Dong Van there’s a nice viewpoint right along the road (Google Maps). I then recommend riding at least part of the small side road that starts at this spot (Google Maps). In places it’s fairly narrow, but it’s fully paved and offers fantastic views of the river and the valley. I recommend going down at least as far as this spot (Google Maps).

The view just mentioned.

Next comes the iconic Ma Pi Leng Pass (Google Maps). Unfortunately, the old road has been closed to private traffic, so you can’t ride it with your own vehicle. I carried straight on, but if you really want to go up to the top of the pass, you could leave your scooter at this spot (Google Maps) and walk up, or pay 50,000 VND to use the taxi service offered by the locals.

Dong Van.

An interesting alternative is to do the entire Sky Path (All Trails). The trail starts at the pass and comes out on the main road again after about 3 km. I did part of it, going up from the opposite side, and I promise it offers insane views. If you’re traveling with at least one other person, you could leave a scooter at the end point (Google Maps), ride back together to the parking spot (Google Maps), do the trail and then go back to get the scooter. That day I had to ride all the way to Bao Lac, so I didn’t have time, but if you like, you could simply walk out and back along the same trail or turn around when you’ve had enough, without necessarily going back and forth with the scooters or arranging a taxi. In any case, even if you take the new road without going up to the pass or doing the Sky Path, there’s certainly no shortage of spectacular views, and there are lots of viewpoints like this one (Google Maps), this one (Google Maps), this one (Google Maps) and this one (Google Maps)!

Sky Path.

After properly enjoying the view from above, you can go down to the bottom of the valley for the boat tour through the Tu San Canyon, which all in all isn’t that bad. At this spot (Google Maps) there’s a large parking lot and the ticket office. Here you’re loaded onto an electric cart that takes you to the actual pier, where the boats leave; they go through the gorge, turn around and come back. They charge 5,000 VND for parking plus another 120,000 VND for the boat tour, which takes about an hour. In my opinion the view from above is more spectacular but, as I said, all in all it isn’t that bad if you have time. If you decide to go down, you can also ride part of this side road (Google Maps), which offers great views of the gorge.

Boat tour.

Once in Meo Vac, you could go and watch the sunset along the road at this spot (Google Maps) or here, where there’s a small structure that serves as a viewpoint (Google Maps). As I mentioned, on the third day of my loop I rode to Bao Lac to do the detour toward Ban Gioc Waterfall, but when I came back I spent the night in Meo Vac at Voi Meo Vac Hostel & Breakfast; nothing special, but not bad for one night either.

Viewpoint in Meo Vac.

Day 4 Ha Giang Loop (Dong Van – Du Gia)

The road from Dong Van to Du Gia, while not as spectacular as the previous day’s, still offers lots of interesting views. You can start with this viewpoint (Google Maps) and then have a coffee at H’mong coffee (Google Maps). Not far away there’s another viewpoint (Google Maps).

The road then becomes rather “monotonous” until you start climbing again; I marked this viewpoint (Google Maps), but you can stop literally anywhere along the road. A little further on there’s another viewpoint (Google Maps) and a series of cafés with viewing terraces (Google Maps) (Google Maps). Going down into the valley, you can stop at the ruins of the French fort (Google Maps). Climbing back up the other side, there’s a really popular viewpoint with a great view over the valley (Google Maps). A little further on there’s yet another bar with a beautiful view and a large viewing terrace (Google Maps). I went back there at sunset too, since Du Gia is only about ten minutes away. Once you get to the village, depending on the time of year and the weather, you could take a refreshing dip at the waterfall (Google Maps).

In Du Gia I stayed at Du Già Field View Homestay: a really nice setting, a welcoming family and delicious food. Highly recommended.

Viewpoint near Du Gia.

Day 5 Ha Giang Loop (Du Gia – Ha Giang)

Instead of going back to Ha Giang on the TL 176, which would be the fastest way, I recommend going back via the TL 181. Climbing the hairpin bends of the pass, there are lots of places to stop and a couple of bars, like this one (Google Maps). On the other side of the pass the scenery is just as beautiful. On the way down, I recommend heading toward Nố Thàng village (Google Maps): the road runs much higher up and offers a far better view than the one along the valley floor. Along the way, just for a change, there are loads of views of the rice paddies on the valley floor (Google Maps). Once you reach the village, instead of joining the main road you rode on the first day, take the “shortcut.” Of course, here too there’s no shortage of cafés with a view, like Coffee Spot with view (Google Maps), and there’s even a waterfall (Google Maps).

TL 181.

Ha Giang Loop with a detour to Ban Gioc Waterfall (and other options)

As I mentioned, if you have a few extra days, you could extend the loop by a few days and reach Ban Gioc Waterfall, like I did. In short, on day 3, instead of sleeping in Meo Vac, ride to Bao Lac. Here I’d stopped at Sunny Homestay; the lady was really nice and, realizing I wanted to spend as little as possible, sent me to Cốm Homestay Bảo Lạc. I was the only guest; nothing special, but more than fine for one night. On day 4, ride to Cao Bang via the iconic Khau Coc Cha Pass (Google Maps). Unfortunately, during my visit it was closed for roadworks, so I had to turn around at the start of the hairpin bends, but it doesn’t really matter: the normal road also offers beautiful scenery. If the pass is open, you could then stop at Pac Bo Cave (Google Maps), where Ho Chi Minh took refuge for some time. From what I understood there isn’t much to see; it’s simply a place of historical significance. Anyway, in Cao Bang I stayed at Lan home, excellent accommodation.

Angel eye mountain.

On day 5 you can visit Ban Gioc Waterfall (Google Maps) and go back to sleep in Cao Bang, or spend the night in one of the many guesthouses nearby. I spent the night at Thu Homestay; we agreed on 330,000 VND including lunch, dinner and breakfast. The entrance to the waterfall costs 40,000 VND, and if you want to take the little boat ride, they charge another 50,000 VND. If possible, avoid the weekend. I went during the week and there was still a nonstop stream of people, especially on the Chinese side. If you want a view of the waterfall from above, you can go up to the monastery (Google Maps).

A cave nearby.

Nearby there’s a cave you can visit; nothing special, but it can be a nice way to pass some time (Google Maps). I did the short route, paying 45,000 VND; they also offer a longer route that requires a guide and costs 195,000 VND. I talked to a French couple who did it: you’re assigned a guide who doesn’t speak English and just leads the way through a less developed part of the cave. Nothing extraordinary, in their opinion. Another possible stop on your way to or from the waterfall is the Mountain of the Angel’s Eye, or “Angel eye mountain.” It’s nothing more than a mountain with a hole in it, but since it’s right on the way, you might as well make a quick stop. To admire it, ride to this spot (Google Maps). On day 6, a long day on the motorbike awaits you to get back to Meo Vac and pick up the loop again the next day.

To wrap up, this is just one of the possible variations the region offers to all two-wheel enthusiasts. If you want to stretch your “Ha Giang Loop” even further, or maybe you’re arriving from Hanoi by motorbike, on this page you’ll find more than a few interesting ideas.

Ban Gioc Waterfall.

Where to stay in Ha Giang?

As mentioned earlier, I stayed at Hong Hao Hostel and Motorbikes the night before and after the loop. It’s an excellent hostel with a generous breakfast buffet. I also recommend it for scooter rentals or joining an organized tour.

How to get to Ha Giang?

If you organize the tour in advance from Hanoi, or maybe write directly to Hong Hao Hostel and Motorbikes or another hostel in Ha Giang, the bus ticket is usually included in the price, and if you want to make the most of your time, you can travel overnight, arrive in Ha Giang early in the morning, spend a few hours in bed and then start the loop after breakfast.

If, on the other hand, you go the DIY route, you can book the bus directly on Vexere; there are several direct connections to both Hanoi and Sapa, but also to other destinations like Cat Ba (Ha Long Bay). In Hanoi, many companies also offer pickup directly from your accommodation. Alternatively, the front desks of all the hostels offer booking services for the various routes, but you usually save money by using Vexere.

Ban Gioc Waterfall.

Sapa

Located 1,500 meters above sea level in the mountains of northern Vietnam, Sapa is a truly picturesque town surrounded by breathtaking scenery, iconic rice terraces, and numerous ethnic minority communities who continue to preserve their traditional culture and customs.

What to do and see in Sapa

Let me start by saying that I spent 4 days in Sapa and never saw the sun, so I skipped more than a few activities, like going up to the top of Mount Fansipan. That said, if you’re looking for something to do in town, there’s a small free museum that isn’t that bad (Google Maps); after that, you could go into the park that overlooks the town from above (Google Maps), and the entrance fee is 30,000 VND. If you happen to visit Sapa over the weekend, consider stopping by the Love Market, a traditional gathering where the region’s ethnic minorities socialize and court, which has now become a cultural attraction.

Sapa.

Trekking in Sapa

You literally won’t be able to walk down the street without someone offering you a trek in Sapa. The “classic” route starts with the traditional village of Cat Cat (Google Maps); from here you go down into the valley through rural villages and rice paddies to Quy Khach Waterfall (Google Maps). As usual, I try to avoid organized tours, and given the reviews of Cat Cat village, which seems to have turned into one big souvenir shop where, on top of that, they charge 150,000 VND to get in, I preferred the DIY approach together with some other people I’d met at the hostel. Basically, we followed this trail (All Trails) and combined it with part of the Muong Hoa Valley Loop (All Trails). For lunch we stopped at A Sinh Restaurant (Google Maps), but there are plenty of options along the way. Once we came out onto the road, we paid 300,000 VND for a taxi back to Sapa. Another option is to go down the other side of the valley, as described on this page (All Trails).

Along the trek.

Mount Fansipan

Mount Fansipan, or Phan Xi Pang, at 3,147 meters, is the highest peak in the country. As I mentioned, during my visit to Sapa I practically never saw the sun, so going up to the summit just to be wrapped in clouds didn’t seem like a good idea. That said, I was told that the summit very often rises above the clouds that blanket Sapa, so you could still try your luck even if the weather in town doesn’t look great. To get to the top, many people choose the cable car, which you can book on the official website, but remember that online tickets are limited. The alternative is to go directly to the departure station (Google Maps). It costs 800,000 VND, with surcharges on weekends/holidays. The other option is to hike up, but unfortunately it’s absolutely mandatory to hire a guide, not so much because the trail is hard to follow, but simply because they want to monetize the mountain. You’ll find the trail described in detail on All Trails, including reviews from people who tried to set off early in the morning to avoid the guards but were still stopped and had to pay 1.5 million VND. Basically, if you want to hike up, get a guide.

Cable car station.

Scooter ride

Weather permitting, you could decide to rent a scooter and explore the area around town on two wheels. You could ride to the village of Ta Phin (Google Maps); the road offers some great views. There isn’t much to do in the village itself, but you could visit the cave (Google Maps). You could then ride to O Quy Ho Pass (Google Maps) or beyond, where there are a couple of viewpoints (Google Maps). Along the road there are also a couple of waterfalls: Silver Waterfall (Google Maps) and Love Waterfall (Google Maps).

Lastly, although it’s not exactly close to Sapa, the Bac Ha Market (Google Maps), held every Sunday, is considered one of the most important and interesting in the region. On this page you’ll find an article about it.

Sapa.

Where to stay in Sapa?

There are many guesthouses in much nicer locations, but if you want to stay downtown, Fancy Sapa Hostel 2 isn’t bad at all. Besides speaking excellent English, the owner is an extremely friendly and helpful person. Recommended.

How to get to Sapa?

If you go the DIY route, you can book the bus directly on Vexere; there are several direct connections to both Hanoi and Ha Giang. Many companies also offer pickup directly from your accommodation. Alternatively, the front desks of all the hostels offer booking services for the various routes, but you usually save money by using Vexere. To and from Hanoi, you could consider traveling by train: the closest station to Sapa is Lao Cai (Google Maps), and you can book directly on the official website.

Quy Khach Waterfall.

Mu Cang Chai

If you want to admire breathtaking rice terraces and come into contact with the region’s ethnic minorities, Mu Cang Chai is, in my opinion, one of the best but most underrated destinations in the whole country.

Trekking with Indigenous homestay.

What to do and see in Mu Cang Chai

I had the good fortune and the pleasure of visiting Mu Cang Chai toward the end of the rice harvesting period in mid-October. The rice still waiting to be harvested was turning yellow, creating a sight that was nothing short of unique, but even during the rest of the year I think the impressive terraces are absolutely worth seeing.

Mu Cang Chai.

Viewpoints in Mu Cang Chai

The spectacular rice terraces are undoubtedly the number one attraction; to see them, you could simply rent a scooter and ride to the following viewpoints: La Pan Tan (Google Maps), Mâm Xôi bé (Google Maps) and Mâm Xôi (Google Maps), where they charge 30,000 VND. Then there’s Chòi Vọng Cảnh (Google Maps), where there’s a path that runs along the edge of one of the houses, and Móng ngựa Mù (Google Maps). Here the road up is really steep, and if you’re not very confident on two wheels you might find it dangerous. They charge 10,000 VND to go up, so alternatively you can take a mototaxi or walk up. The ones I’ve just listed are the most famous and spectacular viewpoints, but the whole valley is full of breathtaking views.

Mâm Xôi bé.

Trekking with Indigenous homestay

Although I usually try to avoid tours, I decided to join a trek organized by the guesthouse where I was staying, and I really recommend it. Together with the guests of another guesthouse run by the same family, we were accompanied by the young couple, who speak excellent English. We first visited Hau de Waterfall (Google Maps) and then got lost among the paths through the rice paddies used by the locals. As I mentioned, they were in the middle of the harvest, so we had lots of fascinating interactions throughout the day. Beyond the views, it was a beautiful experience. I only did the trek, but if you want, they offer lots of other organized tours.

Trekking with Indigenous homestay.

Where to stay in Mu Cang Chai?

I stayed at Mu Cang Chai Backpacker Hostel, a good budget option right on the main road. With hindsight, though, I’d have stayed at the Indigenous homestay. As I mentioned, the same family runs both guesthouses, but the latter is in an extraordinary location.

How to get to Mu Cang Chai?

There are direct daily bus connections to and from Hanoi that you can book independently on Vexere. Alternatively, the various accommodations offer booking services and can also arrange pickup with “local” buses that can’t be booked online. To and from Sapa there’s at least one daily minibus; during my visit, at least, it wasn’t possible to book it online, but the lady at the hostel arranged everything for me.

Móng ngựa Mù.

Mai Chau

Just 140 km from Hanoi, Mai Chau is still far from mass tourism, a perfect destination to immerse yourself in Vietnam’s rural beauty.

What to do and see in Mai Chau

In Mai Chau itself there isn’t much to do, except maybe visiting Chiều Cave (Google Maps), a short walk from the village center. They charge 10,000 VND at the entrance. What I recommend instead is renting a scooter and exploring the surrounding area as follows. I rented my scooter directly at the guesthouse; if you can’t ride, they also offer organized tours. Ride to Kho Muong Cave (Google Maps); the last stretch of road is rather narrow but in good condition. The cave is really impressive, and I recommend going down inside it. They charge 10,000 VND at the entrance, where you park. After visiting the cave, you can pop over to these rice paddies, which are really beautiful to photograph (Google Maps); since I was there, I had lunch nearby at the Culture Puluong restaurant (Google Maps), not exactly cheap but great food.

Kho Muong Cave.

After lunch, head up the pass in this direction (Google Maps) and keep following the road. There’s certainly no shortage of viewpoints, but I particularly recommend this spot (Google Maps), where there’s a great view over the valley. Keep following the side road until it joins the main road at this spot (Google Maps). I recommend ending the day by watching the sunset from the viewpoint overlooking Mai Chau (Google Maps).

Viewpoint.

On another day, you could head north and visit Moc Chau plus a few other attractions along the road. Together with two other guys from the hostel, we set off a bit late but still had time to stop at the Sunday market (Google Maps). By the way, if you want to get up early, about ten kilometers along the same road there’s a viewpoint where, early in the morning, you can often see the “sea of clouds” at the bottom of the valley (Google Maps). Anyway, after the market, we carried on to the tea plantations in Moc Chau (Google Maps).

Tea plantations.

Also in the area there are some caves you can visit; to do so, you have to park at the end of the road at this spot (Google Maps). They asked us for 5,000 VND for parking and wanted 200,000 VND for a guide; we said no and carried on alone on foot. Follow the path and turn left at this spot (Google Maps); we went into cave number 3 (Google Maps), but there are other caves if you want. It was fun, but certainly not unmissable. If you take the guide, they turn on the lights inside. Finally, another attraction in Moc Chau, where I didn’t go, though, is the Bach Long glass bridge, just outside town (Google Maps).

The cave we visited.

On the way back to Mai Chau, we stopped at a really nice hot spring that I highly recommend (Google Maps). The entrance fee is 30,000 VND. If you decide to ride to Moc Chau like we did, I doubt you’ll have time to visit them on the same day, but if you want, there are two waterfalls nearby: Thac Tat Nang (Google Maps) and Go Lao (Google Maps).

The hot spring.

Where to stay in Mai Chau?

I highly recommend Nha Tan – Mai Chau Homestay and Tours. Tan and his family’s hospitality is hard to beat and, as if that weren’t enough, dinner is simply delicious.

How to get to Mai Chau?

There’s a convenient daily van from Tam Coc that you can book directly on Vexere; they even called me to ask if I wanted to be picked up at the guesthouse. Alternatively, you can always have your accommodation book it for you. To and from Hanoi there are quite a few daily departures; here too you can book directly on Vexere or ask your guesthouse.

Mai Chau.

Tam Coc (Ninh Binh)

The capital of the province of the same name, Ninh Binh itself has almost nothing to offer in terms of tourism and is famous mainly for the nearby village of Tam Coc and the surrounding areas.

Bich Dong Pagoda.

What to do and see in Tam Coc

The village of Tam Coc is just 6 km south of Ninh Binh, surrounded by rice fields and limestone peaks that have earned it the nickname “Halong Bay on land.” Tam Coc itself doesn’t have any great attractions; the only exception is perhaps the Bich Dong Pagoda (Google Maps), just outside the center. Admission is free, and all in all it’s a nice place to visit if you have some time left over. If you decide to go, there’s a nice restaurant not far away, Tam Coc Green Garden Restaurant (Google Maps).

Trang An Grottoes.

Boat tours

The boat tours along the waterways that wind their way between limestone peaks, caves and a series of temples are the reason many people decide to visit Tam Coc. There are two starting points: the first is right in the center, on the banks of the pond at this spot (Google Maps), 150,000 VND for foreigners, maximum two people per boat. If possible, try to arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the tourists coming from Hanoi haven’t arrived yet or have already left.

A less crowded and, in my opinion, more scenic alternative is the Trang An Grottoes (Google Maps), located 7 km from Tam Coc and easily reachable by bike. Here, three different routes are offered; I didn’t even know that, and we chose number three on the advice of other people in line, but I doubt there’s a big difference anyway. A maximum of four people per boat. Ideally, it’s best to avoid the middle of the day because of the sun and the heat. 250,000 VND for the entrance and the boat ride.

Boat tour.

Núi Ngoạ Long Peak

This peak is located about halfway between Tam Coc and Trang An Grottoes (Google Maps) and can easily be visited on the same day. Ideally at sunset, although that’s probably the busiest time of day. There are 450 steps, at the top of which you get an insane 360-degree view of the entire area. At the foot of the mountain there’s a lotus garden. They charge 5,000 VND for parking and 100,000 VND for admission.

Núi Ngoạ Long.

Bai Dinh Pagoda

Bai Dinh Pagoda (Google Maps) is one of the largest pagoda complexes in Southeast Asia. It’s about twenty kilometers north of Tam Coc; I went by bike, the road is flat and has little traffic, and unless it’s a particularly hot day, I think it’s quite pleasant overall. That said, you could always rent a scooter or arrange a taxi. The official entrance and parking lot (which costs 15,000 VND) are located here (Google Maps).

Bai Dinh Pagoda.

Several ticket types are offered: at the very least you have to pay 60,000 VND for the electric shuttle that runs back and forth between the parking lot and the complex itself; if you also want to go up to the top of the Báo Thiên Stupa, you need the 220,000 VND combo ticket; a guided tour costs 500,000 VND. I went for the middle option and did the self-guided tour: if you have an internet connection, there are QR codes to scan that give you mini guides in English, both audio and written, and a brochure with an itinerary to follow. For some stretches you can also take the golf carts. It’s a truly huge complex with lots of buildings, you can spend several hours there, and I think it’s absolutely worth the visit.

Lastly, while I haven’t visited them, on the way from Tam Coc to Bai Dinh Pagoda, you’ll find the Temple of Emperor Đinh Tiên Hoàng (Google Maps) and his tomb (Google Maps). Judging by the reviews, I’m not convinced it’s worth stopping, but maybe I’m wrong.

Bai Dinh Pagoda.

How to get to Tam Coc?

To and from Hanoi there are quite a few daily departures; here too you can book directly on Vexere. As I wrote earlier, there’s a convenient daily van to Mai Chau that you can also book directly on Vexere. There are also lots of other direct bus connections to Halong Bay, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Hue and Hoi An. As usual, you can always ask your accommodation to book your transportation.

Where to stay in Ninh Binh (Tam Coc)?

Tam Coc Rice Fields Homestay is an excellent budget option a stone’s throw from the center of Tam Coc. The owner is really kind and helpful. They also provide bikes for free.

Tam Coc.

Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay is without a doubt the most iconic place in all of Vietnam: first of all it’s a UNESCO site, and some even consider it the eighth wonder of the modern world. A really popular way to visit the bay is on organized cruises; there are all kinds, more or less luxurious and more or less long. Unfortunately I don’t have any information about them because, as always, I preferred the budget approach. In any case, any agency, hostel or hotel in Hanoi can organize the whole thing, including the transfer from Hanoi to Halong.

Ha Long Bay DIY

If instead you prefer the DIY approach, or simply something cheaper, I recommend one of the following options. Get to the city of Halong on your own, spend the night in the city and the next morning head to Bay Chai pier on Tuan Chau Island, not far from the city center (Google Maps).

Here you’ll find various offers and really pushy people ready to sell you tickets for the various tours. I recommend ignoring them, going inside the building, where there are several counters, and buying your ticket there. I did “route 1”: from what I understood this is the official government tour, and in fact the boat was full of locals. This tour lasts 4 hours: you sail through the islands of the bay, then there’s a short kayak ride and a visit to a cave before heading back to the port. During my first trip to Vietnam I’d paid only 80,000 VND, but prices seem to have gone up quite a bit, especially the bay “entrance” fee. You’ll find updated prices and the various routes on this page.

The floating villages in Halong Bay Floating villages in Halong Bay.

Cat Ba Island

In my opinion, the island is one of the best bases for exploring the bay: it’s much less chaotic than the city of Halong and, given its location, it lets you explore the southern part, which is by far less frequented by the many boats and cruises that instead invade the northern area. It’s no coincidence that Cat Ba seems to be the favorite destination among backpackers who want to explore the bay.

If you’re coming from the city of Ha Long, my advice is to take the direct ferry to Cat Ba Island, which leaves from the same pier on Tuan Chau Island where the day tours leave from. This way you cross the bay all the way to the northern part of the island where, timed with the ferry’s arrival, there are minibuses that take you to the island’s main town, which is in the southern part. The schedules are as follows:

Cat Ba – Tuan Chau ferry, about an hour, 80,000 VND on foot, 100,000 VND with a motorbike.

Tuan Chau – Cat Ba 7:30 9:00 11:30 13:30 15:00
Cat Ba – Tuan Chau 9:00 11:30 13:00 15:00 16:00

Note: I’ve been told that the schedules vary depending on the season, so confirm them once you’re there.

Kayaking in Halong Bay.

From the small town you can join boat tours that take you to less busy areas of the bay. In my case we explored some caves and bays accessible only by kayak and other more popular destinations like Monkey Island and the floating villages. The tour lasted almost a whole day, lunch was included and I paid just over 10$. I much preferred it to the tour of the northern part of the bay.

On the island you can also do other activities, first and foremost climbing, which you can do both on the mainland and on some cliffs that drop straight into the sea. One of the two guys I was traveling with at the time, an Austrian who’s passionate about the sport, was literally ecstatic about some of the climbs on offer.

Note: As you can see from the map, you can reach Cat Ba Island without going through the city of Halong, which I recommend especially if you’re short on time. As usual, you can book buses to various destinations directly on Vexere or through your accommodation.

How to get to Ha Long Bay?

The city of Ha Long has several daily connections to Hanoi; you can book directly on Vexere. If you go for a cruise, the packages usually include transport to and from the capital. To and from Cat Ba Island there are lots of direct connections to the main tourist destinations in the north of the country and beyond; as usual, you can book directly on Vexere or ask your accommodation.

Where to stay in Ha Long Bay?

In Ha Long city I recommend Kim’s Homestay & Villa, while on Cat Ba Island The Oversleep Catba Hostel.

Kayaking in Halong Bay.

Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.

Phong Nha-Ke Bang

Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, named after the nearby village of Phong Nha, was without a doubt my favorite spot during my first trip to Vietnam. The park is home to numerous spectacular caves, including the largest cave in the world, discovered only in 2009, and possibly the second largest, found in 2016!

What to do and see in Phong Nha-Ke Bang

As I just said, inside the park, established in 2010, there are numerous caves, including Son Doong Cave, the largest in the world, for which you need 3000$ for a 5-day expedition. Here you’ll find more information, including other caves you can explore over several days at more reasonable prices. A friend of mine did the three-day Tu Lan trek, which costs “only” about 300€, and told me it was a wonderful experience. Hang En was recommended to me by another friend, and here too the prices are much more affordable.

Obviously, given my tiny budget, I didn’t visit any of the three, but there are at least two other caves that are definitely worth visiting at prices much more suited to a backpacker.

Inside Paradise Cave.

Thien Duong (Paradise Cave)

If you’re short on time, Thien Duong (Google Maps) is probably the cave to visit. The cave was opened to the public only in 2010 and soon became the park’s number one attraction; inside there’s a series of wooden walkways and well-built, well-lit staircases to make the visit easy.

The entrance costs 250,000 VND. The cave is about 30 minutes from Phong Nha village; I got to the entrance by motorbike, and honestly I doubt you can do it by public transport, but any local agency can arrange transport for a few euros.

Hang Toi (Dark Cave)

This is the “adventure cave”. Hang Toi (Google Maps) isn’t lit, so you visit it with flashlights; inside there’s a chamber completely full of mud where you basically float without sinking. You go in via a zip line, and on the way out you cover a stretch by kayak before reaching a sort of adventure park where there are more ziplines.

Entrance to the cave with the guided tour costs 350,000 VND. If you have your own transport, just show up at the entrance, pay and go in with the first available group. Otherwise, you can organize everything from Phong Nha.

Dark Cave.

Phong Nha and Tien Son

These are the two caves next to Phong Nha village. They’re considered the least spectacular of the tourist caves, but they’re still worth a mention.

The two caves are close to each other: entrance to Phong Nha Cave (Google Maps) costs 150,000 VND, while Tien Son (Google Maps) costs 80,000 VND. The caves can only be reached by boat; the price should be 350,000 VND, but it can be split among up to 14 people. I haven’t personally visited these caves, so I’m not exactly sure they’re worth it. The boats leave from the pier at this spot (Google Maps).

To wrap up, especially if you have your own transport (if you like, you could rent a scooter/motorbike in the village) that you can also use to visit the caves, it’s definitely worth spending half a day riding around the countryside surrounding the village. A little further north there’s also a landing strip that was converted into a road after the end of the war, really interesting (Google Maps).

Landing strip converted into a road.

How to get to Phong Nha?

Phong Nha has direct bus connections to many tourist destinations: Ninh Binh and Hanoi in the north of the country, Hue, Da Nang and Hoi An to the south, and here too you can book directly on Vexere. As usual, you can always ask your accommodation to book your transport.

Where to stay in Phong Nha?

Together with my two travel companions I got a triple room in a hotel whose name I don’t even remember. If you’re looking for a dorm bed, Hugo Homestay and Green Riverside Cosy Home seem to be two great options.

Hue

Hue, in central Vietnam, was the imperial capital from 1802 to 1945. Unfortunately, the bombing during the Vietnam War badly damaged it, but it still preserves part of its charm.

What to do and see in Hue

There are plenty of historical sites in and around the city, but most travelers mainly focus on the imperial citadel and the tombs of the emperors.

The imperial citadel of Hue

The ancient center of power (Google Maps), as well as the emperor’s residence, is undoubtedly Hue’s main attraction and consists of a series of temples, moats, gates, walls and museums.

Unfortunately, the citadel was badly damaged during the war between the French and the Viet Minh independence coalition in 1947 and then bombed by the Americans in 1968: some structures were completely razed to the ground, others are still in excellent condition. In any case, the restoration process is slowly making progress. Allow at least half a day to explore the entire citadel at a relaxed pace; the entrance costs 200,000 VND.

Hue.

The tombs of the emperors

This is Hue’s second big attraction: the tombs are scattered along the river south of the city and can be reached by taxi, by bike, by motorbike/scooter or by boat.

There are six tombs, some better preserved than others. Seeing them all in one day is practically impossible, and many people just see the three main and best-preserved ones: Tu Duc (Google Maps), Minh Mang (Google Maps) and Khai Dinh (Google Maps). Entrance to these three tombs costs 150,000 VND. Entrance to Gia Long (Google Maps) is free. If you plan to visit the three main ones, I recommend doing it early in the morning or in the late afternoon, when the organized tours have already left or have yet to arrive.

To wrap up, stop by the now-iconic abandoned water park, which I’m sure you’ve seen a few photos of (Google Maps). The local mafia seems to have started charging for entry, but officially there’s no fee to pay.

How to get to Hue?

There are several direct buses to the main cities of the country, including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh. As usual, you can book directly on Vexere or ask your accommodation to book your transport. Hue is also on the main railway line, which offers connections to the main cities; you can book directly on the official website. If you’re looking for a comfortable way to travel at night (official website), there’s an interesting “luxury” tourist train, which a dear friend had strongly recommended to me. Finally, Hue has an airport offering several daily flights to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh at modest prices.

Where to stay in Hue?

Tò Vò Hostel Huế: great hostel, good location and delicious breakfast. NANO ECO-HOSTEL is near the water park; a friend strongly recommended it to me.

Hue.

Da Nang

Although many travelers prefer to go straight to Hoi An, Da Nang has become a relatively popular destination in recent years.

What to do and see in Da Nang

Da Nang is only an hour north of Hoi An, so you could use the latter as a base without necessarily stopping in Da Nang, or, if you’re traveling by motorbike, you could simply make a stop on your way south.

Hải Vân Pass and Ban Co Peak

In a day you could ride a scooter up the iconic Hải Vân Pass (Google Maps). I recommend a semi-automatic, especially if, like many people, you then decide to go to Ban Co Peak too (Google Maps), where the guards just won’t let you ride up the road if you’re on an automatic scooter. The whole area offers fantastic views of the coast. Stop at the Chùa Linh Ứng Buddhist temple too (Google Maps).

Bà Nà Hills and the Golden Bridge

Personally, I haven’t been to the now-iconic Golden Bridge (Google Maps), as I visited this area of Vietnam just before it opened to the public, so I can’t speak from personal experience. In any case, the Bà Nà Hills, home to this sort of amusement park with the famous bridge inside, are about 45 minutes from the city. Here you can ride one of the longest cable cars in the world and visit the amusement park. The entrance ticket costs about 900,000 VND, so it’s not exactly cheap. I’m not sure it’s worth it. In any case, you’ll find the various packages on the official website.

For a cheaper and more authentic experience, you could consider the Marble Mountains (Google Maps). I haven’t been here either, but it seems like a nice place to visit.

Golden Bridge.

How to get to Da Nang?

Da Nang is one of the biggest cities in the country, and there are lots of direct buses to loads of destinations. As usual, you can book directly on Vexere or ask your accommodation to book your transport. Da Nang is also on the main railway line, which offers connections to the main cities; you can book directly on the official website. If you’re looking for a comfortable way to travel at night (official website), there’s also an interesting “luxury” tourist train, which a dear friend had strongly recommended to me. Finally, Da Nang has an airport offering several daily flights to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh at modest prices.

Where to stay in Da Nang?

I didn’t spend the night in Da Nang, but Hana Homestay Danang and Siro House Da Nang Homestay seem to be two great options.

Hoi An

Hoi An, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, enchants with its lantern-lit streets, its old shops and a mix of Chinese, Japanese and European architecture in one of Vietnam’s best-preserved old towns. The city is also particularly famous for being an extremely cheap place to have a suit made to measure. Many travelers – myself included – end up leaving the city with a nice suit in their backpack.

Hoi An.

What to do and see in Hoi An

Even though the city is extremely touristy, it keeps its charm, and walking along the river, especially in the evening, with the lights and lanterns lit, is really atmospheric.

Hoi An’s old town

The ticket for Hoi An’s old town costs 120,000 VND per person and gives access to all the streets of the old town and to 5 of the more than 22 buildings and historic sites listed below. Although it isn’t expensive, most of the sites are certainly nothing exceptional, and the Japanese Bridge (the city’s symbolic monument) can be crossed without a ticket, which is only required to visit the attached pagoda. Other noteworthy sites are: Hội Quán Phước Kiến (Google Maps), Hội quán Ngũ Bang (Google Maps), Hội quán Hải Nam (Google Maps), Đình Cẩm Phô (Google Maps), the Museum of Folk Culture (Google Maps) and the Tan Ky Ancient House (Google Maps). The ticket is valid for 24 hours.

The beaches of Hoi An

An Bang Beach (Google Maps), 3 km from the center, and Cua Dai Beach (Google Maps), about 4 km away, are considered some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. In all honesty, they’re nothing exceptional, but spending a couple of hours relaxing on the beach after a short bike ride (many hostels provide bikes) or motorbike ride isn’t a bad idea at all.

The ruins of My Son

I should say up front that I haven’t personally visited the ruins (Google Maps), but they’re without a doubt a popular destination for day trips from Hoi An. They’re about an hour from the city, and it’s a Hindu temple that was abandoned years ago and badly damaged during the Vietnam War. Despite this, it seems to be a site of real interest. Inside the site, about every half hour, you can watch a 15-minute show of local culture. The entrance costs 150,000 VND.

Hoi An at night.

Where to stay in Hoi An?

Backhome Hostel & Bar is a good hostel a stone’s throw from the center, breakfast included. Another great option is Happy Town Hoi An.

How to get to Hoi An?

Hoi An is one of the most touristy destinations, so there are lots of direct buses to loads of cities, including night buses to Hanoi in the north and Ho Chi Minh in the south. As usual, you can book directly on Vexere or ask your accommodation to book your transport.

Nha Trang

Nha Trang is an extremely popular beach destination, especially among Russian tourists, so much so that it’s really common to see signs written in Russian. The city is heavily developed, with big buildings and skyscrapers everywhere. The beach is decent but certainly not exceptional; honestly, I wasn’t enthusiastic about it at all. The only real “attractions” in town are the Stone Church (Google Maps), Long Son Pagoda (Google Maps), and the Ponagar Temple (Google Maps).

Nha Trang Beach.

That said, the nightlife is great and there are dozens of bars and clubs where you can go out in the evening spending very little; the most famous one among travelers is definitely the WHY NOT BAR (Google Maps). Basically, if you’re not looking for a place to party a bit, with a not-exactly-spectacular beach, you can easily skip it.

The only thing I really liked was the nearby Ba Ho Falls (Google Maps), just outside the city, which you can easily reach by scooter (there are probably tours on offer too, or just take a taxi). The falls are pretty, and there’s a series of natural pools where you can swim.

Ba Ho Falls.

How to get to Nha Trang?

Nha Trang is one of the biggest cities in the country, so there are lots of direct buses to loads of destinations. As usual, you can book directly on Vexere or ask your accommodation to book your transport. Also, the city is a stop on the main railway line connecting Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, so you can easily reach all the other cities along the line; you can book directly on the official website. Finally, Nha Trang has an international airport with several daily flights to Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, but also to other Southeast Asian cities like Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur.

Where to stay in Nha Trang?

The Alley Hostel: super friendly staff, central location and close to the beach.

Mui Ne

Mui Ne is probably, after Nha Trang, the second most popular beach destination in the country, but in this case it’s a much less developed and much smaller town.

What to do and see in Mui Ne

I spent most of my time a few kilometers outside the town center, which, from what little I saw, certainly doesn’t seem exciting. Even the beach isn’t exactly Caribbean-quality, but it’s more than enough for a few days of relaxing by the sea.

Along the coastal road.

The Red Dunes

The famous Red Dunes are located just outside the city (Google Maps) and practically all along the coastal road. They’re nothing exceptional, but they’re definitely worth a visit if you’re in Mui Ne, because you can easily reach them on foot too. Local children rent out makeshift sleds or plastic bags to slide down the dunes. If you decide to join in, be cautious of those offering to hold your backpack or bag, as they often disappear without a trace.

The White Dunes

In contrast, the White Dunes are located about 20 kilometers north of Mui Ne (Google Maps) and are best reached by scooter, motorbike, or by joining a tour. The coastal road is really nice, and it’s worth renting a vehicle to visit a few nearby villages too.

Anyway, it’s a very large area where you can walk or hop on one of the many dune buggies ready to drive tourists up and down the dunes; the sunset tour is particularly popular. If you decide to go on your own, avoid the hottest hours of the day. Sure, they’re just sand dunes, but it’s definitely a nice way to spend a couple of hours. Entrance used to be free, but now they seem to charge 15,000 VND.

These are the two main “attractions” in Mui Ne; aside from that, there isn’t much else to do except relax on the beach.

The White Dunes of Mui Ne.

Where to stay in Mui Ne?

N’T Homestay is a small, affordable, and cozy place to stay.

How to get to Mui Ne?

There are frequent buses to Ho Chi Minh in the south and Nha Trang in the north (about a 5-hour ride), while Dalat is roughly 4 hours away. As usual, you can book tickets directly on Vexere or ask your accommodation to arrange transportation.

Dalat

Dalat is 1,500 meters above sea level, and for years it was the place where wealthy French people had their villas to escape the stifling heat of not-too-distant Ho Chi Minh. Now it has become a tourist attraction thanks to the mountains, the forests and, more generally, the unspoiled nature surrounding it.

What to do and see in Dalat

The city center is relatively small and a bit scruffy, but its relaxed atmosphere and focus on outdoor activities make it a great stop. That said, if you have some time left over, I recommend visiting the so-called “Crazy House”, not far from the center (Google Maps): it’s a really unusual building and interesting to see, and the entrance costs 50,000 VND. Finally, if you want to go out for a drink in the evening, I recommend the “Maze Bar” (Google Maps), literally a bar with a labyrinth inside made up of numerous corridors, rooms, spiral staircases and much more that make it unique. A must-see!

Canyoning.

Canyoning

Canyoning is definitely the most popular activity in Dalat, a real adventure that involves rappelling down a series of waterfalls, jumps, natural slides, stretches on foot and swimming; basically, a really fun and adventurous day that I recommend to anyone! I’d never tried anything like it myself and, although the first waterfall can be intimidating, after that it becomes really easy and natural.

The activity is regulated by the government, and in my experience the safety standards are high and the guides professional. I’m a complete ignoramus on the subject, but my Austrian friend, an experienced climber, confirmed that the equipment used was also top quality.

Waterfalls

Pongour Waterfall is about 40 km outside the city (Google Maps), and without your own transport I think you need to join a tour; in any case, it’s definitely worth a visit. It’s one of the biggest waterfalls in Vietnam, and especially during the rainy season it’s really spectacular. On the same day you could also visit the Elephant Waterfall, or Thác Voi (Google Maps), and Prenn Waterfall (Google Maps). Unfortunately, the latter seems to have been taken over by a resort that charges 220,000 VND to get in, so I don’t think it’s worth visiting anymore.

Pongour Waterfall.

Thien Vien Truc Lam Monastery

Thien Vien Truc Lam Monastery (Google Maps) seems to be another interesting site, though I haven’t personally visited it. You can reach it either by cable car (Google Maps) or by driving along the road. Admission is free.

How to get to Dalat?

There are several direct bus routes to and from Ho Chi Minh City, Nha Trang, and Mui Ne. As usual, you can book tickets directly on Vexere or ask your accommodation to arrange transportation.

Where to stay in Dalat?

Tiny Tigers, absolutely recommended! The family that runs the hostel is fantastic, the place is clean and really homey. Every evening they organize a dinner with all the hostel guests, perfect for socializing if you’re traveling solo, and the price is honest, to say the least. Highly recommended!

Ho Chi Minh City

Ho Chi Minh City, known as Saigon until 1975, is the largest and most populous city in Vietnam. I wasn’t all that impressed during the days I spent there; I found it extremely chaotic and definitely not very pretty to look at, but if you’re interested in the Vietnam War, you’ll find lots of interesting sites here.

What to do and see in Ho Chi Minh City

Honestly, I only visited the Cu Chi Tunnels, but the War Remnants Museum (Google Maps) and the Reunification Palace (Google Maps) are also recommended visits.

As for the Cu Chi Tunnels (Google Maps), even though I often prefer the DIY approach, I recommend joining a tour: they’re extremely cheap, you get picked up directly at your hotel/hostel and a guide is included, which definitely helps you better understand what was going on during the war. Don’t expect anything special, but the visit is undoubtedly interesting and informative. That said, I wouldn’t spend too much time in Ho Chi Minh City; in my opinion, Vietnam has much better to offer.

To wrap up, a really lively street to go out for a drink in the evening is Bui Vien (Google Maps).

Cu Chi Tunnels.

Where to stay in Ho Chi Minh City?

Unfortunately, I forgot the name of the hostel I stayed at, but the competition is so fierce that finding a good cheap hostel shouldn’t be difficult at all. T Zone Hostel and Triple Hostel seem like two great options.

How to get to Ho Chi Minh City?

Ho Chi Minh City can easily be reached from any city in the country. There are also direct buses to Phnom Penh, the capital of neighboring Cambodia. As usual, you can book transportation directly on Vexere or ask your accommodation to arrange it for you.

Mekong Delta

The Mekong River Delta is another major tourist attraction. Although many people decide to visit it on a day trip from Ho Chi Minh or combine the visit with the transfer to Phnom Penh in Cambodia, I recommend visiting it on your own over at least two days.

The highlight of a visit to the Mekong Delta is the floating markets: the ideal is to get to the city of Can Tho on your own and organize your visit to the Mekong Delta from there, where you can go straight down to the river and bargain with the boatmen. Anyway, check out this page, where you’ll find lots of interesting ideas.

Mekong Delta.

Con Dao Islands

I haven’t personally visited Con Dao (Google Maps), but a couple of French friends described it to me as one of their favorite destinations of their entire trip in Southeast Asia. This small archipelago, off the southern coast of Vietnam, offers quiet beaches, clear waters and dense forests. Once a French colonial prison, the islands carry an important historical legacy. On this page you’ll find a great guide.

Phu Quoc Island

Here too I can’t speak from personal experience, but more than a few friends have given me completely opposite feedback. From what I’ve been told, Phu Quoc (Google Maps) has seen excessive development and lacks authentic charm. The island caters more to a different kind of tourist than backpackers. In any case, on this page you’ll find a guide.

Mu Cang Chai.

Recommended itineraries in Vietnam

Below I list possible 2-, 3- and 4-week itineraries. Obviously, there’s no such thing as the perfect itinerary for a given amount of time, so take what follows as inspiration and change the itinerary according to your interests/budget, bearing in mind what you’ve read so far!

Note: Depending on the time of year, you could consider focusing exclusively on the south or the north of the country because of the rainy season, which basically alternates between north and south depending on the season.

Also, as a rule, an itinerary for a trip to Vietnam starts in Hanoi and ends in Ho Chi Minh or vice versa. Unless it’s a multi-stop trip around Southeast Asia, where you could simply continue your journey overland, in 99.9% of cases it’s absolutely worth buying a round-trip ticket to Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh and then booking a (really cheap) domestic flight to go back and catch your return flight to Europe or wherever your starting point is.

A small village in northern Vietnam.

Two-week itinerary in Vietnam

Two weeks isn’t a lot, but it’s enough to see the highlights the country has to offer, especially if you fit in a few night buses to save time. You can do the classic north-to-south itinerary skipping a few stops, but in my opinion the ideal would still be to have at least three weeks.

Hanoi (2 nights)

Day 1-2:

Spend the first two days getting over jet lag and exploring the city’s Old Quarter; visit the Temple of Literature, Bach Ma Temple and Hoan Kiem Lake.

Halong Bay (2 nights)

Day 3:

I preferred the boat tour from Cat Ba Island rather than from the city of Halong, which is why I recommend the direct transfer from Hanoi to Cat Ba on this day.

Day 4:

Boat tour of Halong Bay from Cat Ba Island.

Ninh Binh (2 nights)

Day 5:

Transfer to Ninh Binh. I think it’s possible to arrange the transfer the previous evening after the boat tour and so save a day, but I’m not sure.

Day 6:

Explore Tam Coc by bike, take the boat ride in Trang An, sunset at Núi Ngoạ Long. In the evening, transfer to Phong Nha.

Phong Nha (1 night)

Day 7:

Visit the Thien Duong (Paradise Cave) and Hang Toi (Dark Cave) caves on your own by renting a scooter, or join a tour.

Hue (2 nights)

Day 8:

In the morning, transfer to Hue. The tourist bus is probably the most practical option; otherwise, go back to Dong Hoi by local bus, from where there are direct trains to Hue. In any case, try to leave early in the morning and visit the imperial citadel in the afternoon.

Day 9:

Visit the imperial tombs of Hue.

Hoi An (2 nights)

Day 10:

Transfer to Hoi An in the morning and spend the rest of the day exploring the town.

Day 11:

Visit the My Son ruins or spend a day at the beach. In the evening, take the night bus to Dalat.

Da Lat (2 nights)

Day 12:

You could visit the many waterfalls around Dalat or the Thien Vien Truc Lam Monastery.

Day 13:

A day dedicated to canyoning. Night bus to Ho Chi Minh.

Ho Chi Minh City (1 night)

Day 14:

If you have time, visit the Cu Chi Tunnels or the War Remnants Museum. Return flight.

Tam Coc.

Three-week itinerary in Vietnam

With three weeks available, I’d keep more or less the same stops just listed in the two-week itinerary, moving at a more relaxed pace. If instead you want to add a few destinations, my advice is to consider the Ha Giang Loop, which I’d actually try to fit into the two-week itinerary too, at the expense of other destinations. Clearly, it’s a very subjective choice.

Ha Giang Loop.

One-month itinerary in Vietnam

Four weeks are enough to cover a good part of the destinations listed in this guide without necessarily having to jump from one place to another every other day. Broadly speaking, I still recommend following the two-week itinerary and, depending on the time of year, spending more time in the north or the south by adding a few destinations. For example, if you visit Vietnam from November to April, I recommend spending more time in the south, including destinations like Mui Ne, Nha Trang, the Mekong Delta and maybe Con Dao. If, on the other hand, you decide to visit the country between May and October, I recommend lingering in the north of the country, visiting destinations like Sapa, Mu Cang Chai, the Ha Giang region and Mai Chau.

Mai Chau.

How to get around Vietnam

On my first trip to Vietnam, I bought a motorcycle in Hanoi as soon as I arrived. On my second trip, I got to experience public transportation. Whatever option you choose, getting around Vietnam between major tourist destinations is really easy and practical, even for first-time travelers.

Buses in Vietnam

Buses are undoubtedly the most common and cheapest way to get around. In recent years, what’s on offer online has grown enormously, and it’s now possible to book loads of buses on your own. As mentioned several times throughout this guide, the number one platform I recommend is VEXERE (Android, iOS). They accept international cards and, in my experience, I have nothing to complain about. The most popular alternative among travelers is to book your journeys through your accommodation: hostels almost always have a complete table with the various options and are more than willing to organize everything, although you usually save a bit with the DIY approach. Many of these buses offer actual bunks, which makes traveling at night more appealing, especially if you’re short on time.

That said, there are still lots of local buses that don’t show up online, useful especially for short or less-traveled routes. I recommend getting information directly on the spot, maybe by asking your accommodation. In short, just because you can’t find anything online, don’t assume there are no buses.

Sleeper Bus.

Trains in Vietnam

The rail network dates back to the colonial period, and for this reason it isn’t exactly the most efficient, but trains are cheap and in many cases are much more comfortable. Here too, for long journeys you can get a sleeper berth. This is the official website of the national train company, where you can also buy tickets. During high season you need to book at least a few days in advance. On this page you’ll find a great map with the main destinations covered by the rail network. Finally, as mentioned a couple of times, if you’re looking for comfort, Lotus train offers a very comfortable service on the route from Hanoi to Da Nang.

Tea plantations.

Vietnam by motorcycle

This is a relatively popular choice among travelers, myself included. The first time I visited Vietnam, I let my travel companions talk me into buying a motorcycle even though I’d never ridden one! It turned out to be one of the best months I’ve spent traveling. Note that my first day on a geared motorcycle was in Hanoi traffic, in the rain!

The most popular model is undoubtedly a Honda Win replica made in Indonesia (not exactly the most reliable motorcycle in the world). 9 backpackers out of 10 ride one, and a real business has grown up around this phenomenon: in both Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi there are in fact numerous shops that buy and resell motorcycles to whichever travelers come through.

If you plan to buy one, my advice is to do it directly from other travelers. There are often ads in hostels, on Facebook or even on Craigslist. The ideal is to buy it from someone who has to leave the country soon and would rather sell it cheap to another traveler than sell it even cheaper to one of the shops I mentioned before. As a rule, one of these motorcycles costs between 150 and 250 dollars; I paid 190$ for mine (the guy wanted 230$) and resold it for 160$. Also make sure the motorcycle in question is sold with the “green card”, which is basically the equivalent of a vehicle registration document, and it would also be a good idea to check that the numbers match those on the frame.

My two travel companions and our motorbikes.

These motorcycles have been mistreated for years and have gone back and forth between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh God knows how many times. I was extremely lucky with mine, but my two travel companions had quite a few problems; one of them even had to replace the entire engine (it cost him just over 50€). In any case, don’t despair: as a rule, even the smallest village has a mechanic ready to work miracles for a few euros!

It’s a real adventure that I’d recommend to anyone. Having my own vehicle allowed me to explore the country with extreme freedom and to spend more than a few nights in towns where tourism is still something new, and it was an unforgettable experience. However, if you only have two weeks or you don’t exactly have an adventurous spirit, maybe it’s better to avoid it, or just rent a vehicle whenever you feel the need.

From a legal point of view, the Italian Foreign Ministry says that an international driving permit issued in Italy is recognized by the Vietnamese government only if you have a visa of at least 3 months; elsewhere I’ve read that it’s always valid, so I suggest you do your own research. In any case, the police very often tend to “fine” foreigners extremely easily, but if you pull out your international driving permit, they tend to let you go without making a fuss. Luckily I didn’t have any problems, but some Dutch guys I met simply started filming the two police officers while they were “fining” them and were let go immediately; in practice, it’s maybe better to pay a few euros and avoid problems. If you’re already abroad or simply want to get your international driving permit online, you can do it on this site.

Ban Gioc Waterfall.

Domestic flights in Vietnam

Domestic flights can be extremely cheap, especially if bought a bit in advance. The main airports are obviously those of Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi, which are connected to each other by numerous flights every day. For this route flying is undoubtedly the best choice; in all other cases, if you’re on a limited budget, it’s definitely worth considering buses and trains.

Other airports to consider are: Da Nang, Hai Phong, Can Tho, Hue, Nha Trang, Da Lat and Phu Quoc. The three airlines operating domestic flights are Vietnam Airlines, VietJetAir and Pacific Airlines (formerly Jetstar Pacific), with the latter two being low-cost options.

Taxis in Vietnam

Taxis and mototaxis are extremely common throughout the country and really cheap. However, make sure you agree on the price before getting on board, and remember that in 99% of cases the price you’re offered is hugely inflated: haggle, and maybe ask your accommodation what the right price is for a given route. In big cities, or rather, more generally, wherever it’s available, I strongly recommend using Grab.

Tam Coc.

Travel to Vietnam: costs

How much does a trip to Vietnam cost? Little, very little. Traveling cheaply, you can easily live on a budget of about 20-25€ per day. Vietnam is undoubtedly one of the cheapest countries I’ve visited so far. On my last 30-day trip, I spent exactly 673.09€ all-inclusive, which comes to just over 22€ per day.

That said, it was a month of slow travel, so much so that I never even left the north of Vietnam. If you plan to move around often and travel the entire country from north to south, transport alone will take a fair chunk of your budget, but it absolutely remains a cheap destination; in my opinion, the cheapest destination in Southeast Asia.

Cost of food in Vietnam

A Banh Mi, basically the classic Vietnamese sandwich that for many could easily be a meal, in the version with the typical sausage and vegetables (Banh mi cha), normally sells for 15,000 – 25,000 VND (about 1€!). For hot meals in a local restaurant, it’s still hard to spend more than 50,000 VND, and a portion of Pho usually costs 30,000 VND. In mid-level restaurants, expect to pay between 60,000 and 120,000 VND.

Cost of transportation in Vietnam

Transport is also really cheap, with buses that rarely cost more than 1-2€ per hour of travel and trains that are only slightly more expensive. As mentioned several times in the guide, domestic flights can also be really cheap, with the Hanoi – Ho Chi Minh route, a two-hour flight, that rarely costs more than 50€ if booked a bit in advance.

Cost of accommodation in Vietnam

Outside the big cities, you can often sleep in a hostel for less than 5€ a night, and this price even includes breakfast. While traveling by motorcycle, I often ended up staying in towns and cities that weren’t exactly touristy, where there were no hostels, only hotels, and even there prices were very similar to hostels, sometimes even cheaper. In touristy places, hotel prices are still extremely affordable.

Mu Cang Chai.

Other costs (ATM withdrawals and SIM cards)

Let’s start with ATM withdrawal costs, which can be reduced to zero by using the best travel cards. In fact, TP Bank and VP Bank allow withdrawals of up to 5 million VND per transaction with no fees. HSBC charges a 20,000 VND fee but allows withdrawals up to 10 million VND per transaction. Other banks like SCB Bank and Shinhan Bank may also allow free withdrawals, but I haven’t tested them personally.

As for SIM cards, Viettel is by far the company with the best coverage across the country. Be careful, though, because at the airport, but also in some official shops in tourist areas, the staff are anything but honest. First of all, they seem to show only the plans for tourists, claiming they’re the only option, and as if that weren’t enough, they charge much more than the real price for the SIM itself. This shop right in the center of Hanoi wanted to charge me 150,000 VND for the SIM and told me that, as a tourist, I couldn’t have the packages shown on their website, only the “tourist” ones. I went to this shop not far away, which asked me for 50,000 VND for the SIM right from the start and didn’t make a fuss when I asked for one of the plans advertised online. In any case, bring your passport with you.

Ha Giang Loop.

If you have a phone that supports eSIMs and you want the convenience of being online right away without having to buy a local SIM, then I recommend using a service like the ones offered by Airalo and Ubigi. If you go for this solution, though, there are at least a couple of things to consider. First of all, with rare exceptions, you pay much more per gigabyte than you would with a local SIM; secondly, their local partner isn’t always the one with the best coverage in the country.

Basically, I think most travelers would be better off buying a local SIM (or maybe trying to buy the eSIM of a local provider), but think it over for yourself, as there’s no shortage of exceptions. For example, when I visited Japan, the plan offered by Ubigi was cheaper than any local SIM I could buy without proving I was a resident.

Travel to Vietnam: safety

Is Vietnam a safe country? Definitely yes.

A bit like all of Southeast Asia, Vietnam is also considered a safe country where the crime level is really low.

That said, especially in big cities like Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh, incidents like pickpocketing and theft in general against tourists are certainly not rare, but with a bit of care and common sense you shouldn’t have any kind of problem.

My tips for traveling safely anywhere in the world.

Something you do need to pay particular attention to, though, is scams. Vietnam is, by all accounts, one of the countries where the most scams against tourists happen, much more than in other Southeast Asian countries. Obviously, this shouldn’t discourage you at all from visiting, but try to always stay alert: not-exactly-honest taxi drivers, corrupt police officers and other dishonest practices are unfortunately common. Dig your heels in, negotiate as much as possible and don’t hesitate to turn around and walk away!

Are you planning a trip to Vietnam? Check out these posts:

Which travel backpack to choose

What to bring on your trip

Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!

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Vietnam Travel Guide

When to visit Vietnam

Southern Vietnam

Central Vietnam

Northern Vietnam

Documents and vaccinations to enter Vietnam

What to do and see in Vietnam

Hanoi

What to do and see in Hanoi

Ha Giang

Ha Giang Loop DIY itinerary

Sapa

What to do and see in Sapa

Mu Cang Chai

What to do and see in Mu Cang Chai

Mai Chau

What to do and see in Mai Chau

Tam Coc (Ninh Binh)

What to do and see in Tam Coc

Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay DIY

Cat Ba Island

Phong Nha-Ke Bang

What to do and see in Phong Nha-Ke Bang

Hue

What to do and see in Hue

Da Nang

What to do and see in Da Nang

Hoi An

What to do and see in Hoi An

Nha Trang

Mui Ne

What to do and see in Mui Ne

Dalat

What to do and see in Dalat

Ho Chi Minh City

What to do and see in Ho Chi Minh City

Mekong Delta

Con Dao Islands

Phu Quoc Island

Recommended itineraries in Vietnam

Two-week itinerary in Vietnam

Three-week itinerary in Vietnam

One-month itinerary in Vietnam

How to get around Vietnam

Buses in Vietnam

Trains in Vietnam

Vietnam by motorcycle

Domestic flights in Vietnam

Taxis in Vietnam

Travel to Vietnam: costs

Cost of food in Vietnam

Cost of transportation in Vietnam

Cost of accommodation in Vietnam

Other costs (ATM withdrawals and SIM cards)

Travel to Vietnam: safety

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