Uruguay Travel Guide
Uruguay, the second smallest country in South America, is home to some of the continent’s most beautiful beaches and to avid consumers of yerba mate and asados.
Often visited only as part of a backpacking trip, spending a couple of weeks there between Argentina and Brazil, it’s definitely worth considering as a trip in its own right too.
In this guide you’ll find all the information you need to plan a budget trip to Uruguay.
Quick menu
- Why visit Uruguay
- When to visit Uruguay
- Documents and vaccinations to enter Uruguay
- What to do and see in Uruguay
- Suggested itineraries in Uruguay
- How to get around Uruguay
- Backpacking Uruguay: costs
- Backpacking Uruguay: safety
Colonia del Sacramento.
Why visit Uruguay
A safe and progressive country. After Chile, Uruguay is the safest country in South America, but that’s not all: it’s also one of the most progressive countries in the world. Here marijuana is legal, and so are abortion and same-sex marriage. On top of that, the vast majority of its electricity is produced from renewable sources.
The beaches. As I already said, this is where you’ll find some of the most beautiful beaches in South America: Punta del Diablo, Punta del Este and La Paloma are the best known, but the options along the coast are practically endless. The surf at many beaches isn’t bad at all.
The cities. The capital, Montevideo, is safe and clean, and with only 1.3 million inhabitants it’s nowhere near as chaotic as other South American capitals, so much so that it has been named the most livable city in South America. Colonia del Sacramento, not far away, is a really pretty town whose historic center, dating back to the seventeenth century, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Food, and especially meat. Uruguay is a huge producer and exporter of meat (there are about four head of cattle for every inhabitant), and a huge consumer of it too (81.5kg per person per year). Asado (barbecue) is taken as seriously as in Argentina, if not more, and of course it’s delicious.
When to visit Uruguay
Uruguay has a temperate climate with four very distinct seasons.
Summer, which runs from December to February, has average temperatures ranging from 20 to 30 degrees, with peaks of 35, and rainfall is low.
Fall (March – May) and spring (September – November) aren’t particularly cold: during the day temperatures hover around 20 degrees and the nights are cool.
Winter (June – August) isn’t particularly cold, with average daytime temperatures of 10-15 degrees that rarely drop below freezing, but of course all the beach destinations are half-deserted, with many places even closing their doors.
To sum up, the best times to go to Uruguay are December before Christmas, March and early April. Temperatures are pleasant, the beaches aren’t too crowded and prices aren’t at high-season levels. In January, February and over the Christmas holidays, the beaches are literally invaded by local, Argentinian and Brazilian tourists, and prices are high.
The Colonia del Sacramento lighthouse.
Documents and vaccinations to enter Uruguay
With an Italian passport you get a free 90-day tourist visa from the moment you enter the country (the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours).
You can renew the visa by leaving the country and coming back in, even on the same day (a process known in travel slang as a “visa run”), or by going to the national immigration office in Montevideo; the process can be repeated up to a maximum of 1 year.
Uruguay doesn’t require any mandatory vaccinations, but Hepatitis A and B are recommended.
For up-to-date information on visas and everything else, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).
What to do and see in Uruguay
Many travelers limit themselves to the coast because the main destinations are only a few hours apart, making a country that’s already easy to get around, given its size, even easier to navigate. Many cross Uruguay on their way from Argentina to Brazil and vice versa.
In this guide, prices are expressed in the local currency, the “Uruguayan peso,” often abbreviated as “UYU.” The exchange rate is about 1€ = 45 UYU. For the current exchange rate, I recommend checking this page.
Montevideo
Founded in 1724, for years it didn’t grow in size, remaining what’s now called the Ciudad Vieja (old town); from the mid-1900s the city began to expand eastward, forming what is today the southernmost capital in all of South America. The city is pretty and has a relaxed atmosphere; there may not be any major attractions, but it’s still worth spending a couple of days there.
What to do and see in Montevideo
Although the city is certainly not known for its beaches, there are two that aren’t so bad after all: Playa Ramirez (Google Maps) and Playa de los Pocitos (Google Maps), which are extremely popular on weekends during the warm months.
As always, if you speak a bit of English or Spanish, I recommend joining the free walking tour that takes you around the historic center (my guide was really good!).
In any case, in my opinion Montevideo’s charm lies within the old town, which you can easily explore on foot, and this is where you should spend most of your time; a visit to the Mercado del Puerto market is almost a must (Google Maps).
For the rest of your visit, I recommend walking along the Rambla, the approximately 22-kilometer-long bicycle and pedestrian path that runs along the coast, which is particularly pleasant in the late afternoon. And finally, soccer lovers in particular might consider visiting “Estadio Centenario” (Google Maps), the stadium that hosted the final of the first World Cup. Official website.
The stadium is really close to the bus station, about 5 km from the old town, and is easily reached by bus. The museum is open Monday to Friday from 10:00 to 17:00, 80 UYU.
If you decide to get around by public transport in the city, this is the go-to site for schedules and routes. Or apps for Android and iOS.
The gateway to Montevideo’s old town.
Where to sleep in Montevideo?
If you’re looking for something right in the center, check out Circus, while El Viajero has a more youthful atmosphere. Destino 26, on the other hand, is in the Pocitos neighborhood a stone’s throw from the beach.
How to get to Montevideo?
Just outside the airport there are buses that go to Terminal Tres Cruces (Google Maps); from here you can also walk to the center (about 3 km) or take city buses.
There are buses to and from Punta del Este (2 hours) and Colonia del Sacramento (2 1/2 hours) about every hour.
Colonia del Sacramento
Colonia del Sacramento, particularly its small historic center, is probably the most visited destination in the country. Founded in 1680 by the Portuguese and strategically located between Brazil (a Portuguese colony) and the Spanish territories in present-day Argentina, it has changed hands several times, but despite it all it has been remarkably well preserved.
What to do and see in Colonia del Sacramento
To be honest, there isn’t much to do apart from strolling around the historic center (a UNESCO site), full of brightly colored colonial buildings, little cafes and restaurants. You can climb to the top of the lighthouse (Google Maps) from where there’s a great view of the city and the Rio de la Plata, 20 UYU. In my opinion, one day should be more than enough.
Where to sleep in Colonia del Sacramento?
Hostel & Suites del Rio, an excellent modern and clean hostel just a stone’s throw from the center.
How to reach Colonia del Sacramento?
There are regular departures to Montevideo, about 2 hours. From the port (Google Maps) which is very close to the bus terminal (Google Maps) there are several daily ferries to and from Buenos Aires where you can continue your trip in Argentina. The cheapest company is Colonia Express; use the Uruguayan website (the one in the link): its prices are cheaper than the Argentinian one’s! The more expensive alternative is Seacat.
In the streets of Colonia.
Piriapolis
A small coastal town located between Montevideo and Punta del Este, famous above all for the many hills that surround it, but also for its beaches, which are much less crowded than those of nearby Punta del Este.
What to do and see in Piriapolis
If you’re not interested in the beach, Piriapolis still has a lot to offer. The Castillo de Piria (Google Maps), the home of the town’s founder Francisco Piria, is undoubtedly the most beautiful building in town; it’s not a must-see, but admission is free and you can find interesting information about the town’s history. A little further north along the same road there’s a sort of reserve/zoo called “Pan de Azucar Reserve” (Google Maps), also free. I recommend visiting it early in the morning or in the late afternoon, when the animals are more active.
As I already said, there are loads of hills around town: San Antonio (Google Maps) is right in the middle of town and is the most popular one; from the top, on a clear day, you can see Punta del Este. There’s a cable car that goes up, but you can also walk up or take a taxi. Recommended for sunset.
Two other popular hills are “Cerro del Toro” (Google Maps), not far from the town center and easily reached on foot, which is more of a picnic area, and “Cerro Pan de Azucar” (Google Maps), which has a giant cross at the top with a spiral staircase inside. The hike isn’t extremely hard, but it still takes about two hours to get up. The well-marked trailhead is near the reserve.
Where to sleep in Piriapolis?
Hostel Piria is an excellent hostel just a stone’s throw from the sea.
How to get to Piriapolis?
From Montevideo, there are buses about every hour during the day, and it’s about a two-hour trip, while Punta del Este is about an hour away. The bus terminal is here.
Sunset at Cerro San Antonio in Piriapolis.
Punta del Este
Also called the “Monaco of South America,” Punta del Este is a resort city complete with luxury hotels, casinos, yachts, nightclubs, and many tourists. From December through February, the city’s population swells from 20,000 during the winter to over 250,000 during the peak of the high season.
What to do and see in Punta del Este
This is the classic summer destination where nightlife alternates with relaxing on the beach; on top of that, you can surf at Playa Brava, although conditions are better further north in La Paloma. If you decide to stop in town, you can’t miss the now-famous “Hand in the Sand,” a modern outdoor sculpture (Google Maps). If you’re looking for a quiet, relaxed place, you’re probably better off skipping it.
Where to sleep in Punta del Este?
Tas D Viaje Hostel, an excellent hostel right in the center of town, a stone’s throw from the beach and three blocks from the bus station. They also offer private rooms with hotel-like services. The Trip Hostel is probably the cheapest option in town.
N.B. If you visit the town in the summer, I strongly recommend booking well in advance.
How to reach Punta del Este?
From Montevideo it’s only 2 hours by bus, while heading east there are frequent connections to Rocha (2 hours), and from there you can continue to La Paloma (40 minutes) or Cabo Polonio (about an hour and a half). Location of the bus station.
The Hand in the Sand.
Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.
La Paloma and La Pedrera
The two towns are located close to each other, and for anyone looking for a quiet place to spend a few relaxing days at the beach, away from the crowded beaches and nightclubs of Punta del Este, they’re probably the best choice along Uruguay’s entire coast.
There isn’t much to do here apart from lazing around, walking and sunbathing on the beach, unless you’re a surfer or an aspiring one (La Paloma is considered one of the best places to surf in Uruguay).
Basically, if you’re looking for a peaceful spot to spend a couple of days at the beach, this is the ideal place.
Where to sleep in La Paloma?
There aren’t many hostels in town, but Hostel Ibirapita is undoubtedly a great choice.
How to reach La Paloma?
From the bus station (Google Maps) there are connections to Cabo Polonio (1 hour), Rocha (45 minutes) and Montevideo (3 hours).
La Paloma.
Cabo Polonio
This rather curious little village is considered one of Uruguay’s hidden gems. The local community rejects electricity, running water, and even a sewer system; here, when the sun goes down, the village goes completely dark. In some ways, it resembles an Amish community.
The atmosphere in the village is very hippie-like, and apart from beach bonfires, long walks, and relaxation, there isn’t much to do. The only real attraction, besides the feeling of being cut off from the world, is the colony of sea lions and seals on the rocks behind the lighthouse (Google Maps). For 25 UYU you can climb to the top of the lighthouse.
N.B: If you decide to visit Cabo Polonio, I recommend bringing a flashlight, some food (as there are no supermarkets, only small stores), and most importantly, enough cash, since there are no ATMs.
Where to sleep in Cabo Polonio?
Lobo Hostel Bar is good value for money.
How to reach Cabo Polonio?
The only way non-residents can get to Cabo Polonio is by some kind of truck/bus that shuttles between the village and the visitor center that also serves as a bus terminal (Google Maps), 296 UYU round trip. From the visitor center/bus terminal there are buses to La Paloma, Montevideo via Rocha and Punta del Diablo (1 hour).
A typical little house in Cabo Polonio.
Punta del Diablo
Punta del Diablo is the second most popular beach destination in Uruguay after Punta del Este, and for many people it’s Punta del Este’s rival, since the atmosphere here is totally different.
In fact, there are no big skyscrapers, and the vibe is much more “hippie” than in luxurious Punta del Este. Here too, as in most of Uruguay’s coastal towns, there isn’t much to do and the main activities are all beach-related, surfing included; there are also quite a few bars and the chance to party, obviously in the summer.
N.B. There’s only one ATM in town, which only works in the summer, and since it’s the only one, there’s a risk it runs out of cash.
Where to sleep in Punta del Diablo?
Posada Mar Azul has some fairly cheap rooms.
How to reach Punta del Diablo?
There are daily connections to Chuy (on the Brazilian border), Rocha, and Montevideo. The bus terminal (Google Maps) is slightly outside town, but there are colectivos shuttling back and forth (25 UYU).
Punta del Diablo.
Suggested itineraries in Uruguay
To complete the classic itinerary along the coast following the stops I’ve just described, about 2 weeks should be enough. Remember that outside the period that roughly runs from October to April, the following itinerary doesn’t make much sense and means going to the beach in winter. If you find yourself in Uruguay outside this period, my advice is to visit Montevideo and Colonia and then take a ferry to Argentina, where you can easily visit Buenos Aires, the Iguazu Falls and the north of the country more generally.
15-day itinerary in Uruguay
Here’s the classic travel itinerary along Uruguay’s coast. Take what follows as inspiration and modify or create the itinerary according to your interests/budget!
Montevideo (2 nights)
Day 1:
Recover from jet lag and explore the city, maybe by joining the free walking tour. Enjoy the sunset along the Rambla.
Day 2:
Depending on the time of year and your interests, you could spend the day at the beach, visit the Estadio Centenario, a few museums, or just stroll around the historic center.
Colonia del Sacramento (1 night)
Day 3:
Take a bus in the morning and spend the afternoon exploring Colonia del Sacramento’s historic center.
Punta del Este (3 nights)
Day 4:
Spend the morning in Colonia and take an early afternoon bus to Montevideo, then catch a connection to Punta del Este.
Day 5-6:
Two full days to spend in Punta del Este.
La Paloma (3 nights)
Day 7:
Bus to La Paloma in the early afternoon.
Day 8-9:
Two full days to spend in La Paloma.
Cabo Polonio (2 nights)
Day 10:
Transfer to Cabo Polonio in the early afternoon. Avoid arriving in the dark!
Day 11:
Day in Cabo Polonio.
Punta del Diablo (3 nights)
Day 12:
Transfer to Punta del Diablo in the early afternoon.
Day 13 – 14:
Two full days to spend in Punta del Diablo.
Day 15:
Return to Montevideo.
How to get around Uruguay
Buses in Uruguay
The bus system is efficient and has an extensive network, especially along the coast. From Montevideo’s main terminal – Terminal Tres Cruces – there are international departures to São Paulo and Porto Alegre in Brazil, Asuncion in Paraguay, most cities in northern Argentina, and even Santiago in Chile.
COT, CYNSA and Rutas del Sol are the main companies; the buses are modern and clean, and some even have wifi on board.
For schedules and routes, I suggest you check out this website.
Taxis in Uruguay
Taxis in Uruguay are safe and reliable, and they use a meter.
Domestic flights in Uruguay
Domestic flights are practically nonexistent and honestly wouldn’t make much sense given the distances involved; for “long” routes within the country, buses are by far the best choice.
Hitchhiking in Uruguay
Hitchhiking is common and safe, especially in rural areas.
Backpacking Uruguay: costs
How much does a trip to Uruguay cost?
A flight from Europe to Uruguay, if booked in advance, costs around 600/700 euros, excluding the Christmas period and January. The only international airport is Montevideo’s, but since Buenos Aires is only an hour by ferry from Colonia del Sacramento, it’s definitely worth considering, and so is Porto Alegre in Brazil, about 7 hours by bus from Punta del Diablo – with TapAir I’m seeing flights for under 500€! You might want to check out the guide I wrote on finding flights.
Cost of transport in Uruguay
There are no great distances involved, so transportation isn’t a big factor in costs. Count on 3-4€ per hour of travel time.
Cost of food in Uruguay
Food isn’t very cheap compared to other South American countries; a meal in a cheap restaurant costs around 10€. For budget travelers who don’t feel like cooking, empanadas are, as always, great value for money.
Typical asado.
Cost of accommodation in Uruguay
A dorm bed can cost anywhere between 10 and 15 euros. A private room usually costs from 20 euros up. Breakfast at hostels is very often included in the price, and almost all places provide a kitchen.
To sum up, Uruguay is definitely not among the cheapest countries in South America, and since it’s mainly a summer destination, prices vary a lot between high and low season. But considering that for many travelers the main activity is lazing on the beach, if you avoid eating out and sleep in hostels, a budget of 30-35€ a day should be enough – outside December and January, when prices, especially for accommodation, in some cases double. You might be interested in reading 40 ways to save money while traveling.
To reduce exchange and withdrawal fees, see my guide to the best travel cards.
Backpacking Uruguay: safety
Is Uruguay dangerous? Absolutely not! As mentioned earlier, Uruguay is among the safest countries in all of Latin America, and when it comes to violent crime in particular, its rate is extremely low. For instance, in the ranking of intentional homicides per 100,000 inhabitants, where neighboring Brazil ranks first, Uruguay ranks 109th and Italy 83rd! Perhaps this is also why many Brazilians choose to spend their vacations in Uruguay.
However, this doesn’t mean that crime is completely absent: especially in some areas of Montevideo, it’s a good idea to use common sense, above all at certain times of day. That said, safety is definitely not a problem when it comes to Uruguay.
In any case, I recommend you take a look at my tips for traveling safely anywhere in the world.
Are you planning a trip to Uruguay? Check out these posts:
Tips for planning a budget trip
Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!
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