La Gomera Travel Guide
A short distance from the far more popular Tenerife, La Gomera is the exact opposite: small, with a population of about twenty thousand, it is largely unspoiled and offers a unique opportunity to anyone who wants to immerse themselves in nature and in particular in the fascinating laurisilva forest that characterizes the Garajonay National Park located in the center of the island.
I visited La Gomera during a two-month trip during which i explored all the major islands of the archipelago except El Hierro. Whether it’s a backpacking adventure, a road trip or an all-inclusive vacation, you’ll find plenty of useful tips and insights in this guide to help you plan your trip.
Quick menu
- When to visit La Gomera
- Documents and vaccinations for going to La Gomera
- What to do and see in La Gomera
- Suggested itineraries in La Gomera
- How to get around La Gomera
- Backpacking La Gomera: costs
- Backpacking La Gomera: safety
Laurisilva Forest.
When to visit La Gomera
La Gomera, like the rest of the Canary Islands, enjoys a good climate throughout the year and can therefore be appreciated in all seasons. This is especially true when we talk about La Gomera where trekking is undoubtedly one of the main activities to be done on the island and consequently the water temperature of the winter months takes a back seat.
La Gomera in spring
During the spring months, temperatures can reach 22-23 degrees and even a few degrees higher toward the end of May, a month during which the rainfall that can occasionally occur in March and April is instead virtually absent. This makes May particularly ideal for those who want to avoid the crowds and prices that characterize the peak summer season.
However, it is good to remember that among the mountains of the national park, especially on days when the sun does not shine, it can definitely get “cold”.
La Gomera in summer
June, July and August are considered high season in La Gomera and the Canary Islands in general. The weather is excellent and rainfall is absent. Toward the end of July the ocean water also begins to warm up. Of course, this is also the busiest and most expensive time of the year.
Terraces on the island’s north coast.
La Gomera in autumn
September is a great month to visit the island. The weather is good and especially in the second part of the month the summer crowds should not be there anymore. With October and especially November, the probability of precipitation increases and temperatures begin to drop but all in all it is still a pleasant time to visit the island.
La Gomera in winter
Even in the middle of winter in December, January and February, La Gomera can definitely be an interesting destination. However, it is good to remember that the month of December corresponds with the peak of precipitation that then goes down until May.
Visiting the island in winter may not be the ideal time, but the risk of rain is minimal. You might even appreciate the clouds that often surround the national park, enhancing the natural beauty of the island.
Documents and vaccinations for going to La Gomera
The Canary Islands are, for all intents and purposes, part of Spain, and therefore, like any other country within the European Union, Schengen Area visa policy applies.
What to do and see in La Gomera
The island is really compact and if it were not for its mountainous nature, travel between points would be extremely quick. Below is a suggested counterclockwise road trip itinerary for the island. Alternatively, you can use a few destinations as a base and take day trips, although this will require more driving.
The island has a dense network of well-mapped and numbered trails. To see the complete list I recommend downloading the official app (android, iOS). This is the official website. The app also works offline using only gps. In any case I will provide links for gps coordinates but I think it is always best to refer to official sources and when you hear me talk about trail number “X” you know what I am talking about.
N.b. Several times throughout the guide you will find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the Alltrails app you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.
San Sebastián de La Gomera
The capital and main port of the island, San Sebastián has important historical significance as it is the place from where Christopher Columbus left in 1492 on the voyage that led him to discover the American continent. The historic center, while not particularly pretty like Santa Cruz in La Palma, still has some noteworthy historic buildings such as the Torre del Conde and the Assumption Church. In any case, it takes no more than a couple of hours to walk around the small center.
The town’s main beach (Playa San Sebastián) is not exactly the best the Canary Islands have to offer but it is a good place to swim or just sunbathe. Finally, there are a couple of viewpoints where I recommend going up at sunset or even better at sunrise: Mirador de la Hilla and Mirador del Parador. Two other viewpoints outside the city where I recommend stopping when leaving or re-entering San Sebastián are Mirador del Sombrero and Mirador Lomada del Camello, the latter of which with Mount Teide in the background is particularly fascinating.
Assumption Church.
Where to sleep in San Sebastián de La Gomera?
Hostal Colón excellent budget solution within walking distance from the center. The owners are really nice and helpful.
How to reach San Sebastián de La Gomera?
From the port there are daily ferry connections to Los Cristianos in Tenerife and Santa Cruz de La Palma in La Palma. In contrast, the island’s airport is located near Playa Santiago about 30 km further south and offers connections to all the other islands in the archipelago.
San Sebastian.
Hermigua
Following the itinerary north, the first stop after leaving San Sebastian is the beautiful valley of Hermigua and its namesake town, which runs lengthwise until it reaches the sea, where unfortunately, swimming is not recommended due to the strong currents. On the other hand, there is a beautiful natural pool that can be reached at the end of a very short walk starting from the parking lot at this spot. Also, if you are interested in the history of the island, including the Aboriginal culture before the arrival of the Spanish, you can visit the ethnographic park (official website) and the ethnographic museum (official website).
Finally, I recommend completing a shortened version of Circular 33, following this trail, it is about 9km, 2:30 – 3:30 hours. Great views of the coast and Teide in the distance, though certainly not unmissable, all in all an enjoyable hike.
Circular 33.
You’ll notice that the route I described doesn’t go all the way down to Playa de la Caleta but if you feel like walking a few more kilometers you could do that, in fact, if you don’t really feel like walking I think it’s still worth driving there. Unfortunately, swimming is not recommended here either but the beach is really nice and is equipped with lots of tables, barbecue areas and bathrooms. The road to get there is narrow in places so drive carefully.
Hermigua natural pool.
Where to sleep in Hermigua?
Casa Creativa and La Cuadra are both good inexpensive options to use as a base for exploring Hermigua and potentially also Garajonay National Park.
Hermigua.
Agulo
A small town a short distance from Hermigua, it is literally surrounded by mountains, offering striking views both of the mountains and the sea, where the island of Tenerife can be seen. In winter, when rainfall is concentrated, waterfalls apparently form along the sides of the surrounding mountains.
In any case, as charming as the setting is and the small old town is pretty, don’t expect to spend more than a couple of hours in Agulo.
Agulo.
Garajonay National Park
The island’s morphology causes moisture brought in by ocean winds to be trapped by the mountainous central area, which hosts one of the best-preserved laurisilva forests in all of Europe. This forest is a tangle of plants, lianas, ferns, and trees entirely covered with moss, creating a surreal, fairy-tale landscape.
If you come from Agulo, before even reaching the park I recommend a stop at the visitor’s center where interesting films are shown and there are also some permanent exhibits that tell not only about the island from a naturalistic point of view but also from a cultural point of view highlighting rather peculiar ways of life and traditions such as the language of whistles, used mainly by shepherds to communicate over long distances. Of course, it is also possible to obtain all the relevant information for visiting and enjoying the park and the many trails.
Laurisilva Forest.
Recommended trails within Garajonay Park
The trails are listed in order of difficulty. These are just a few of the dozens of possibilities that the trails within the national park have to offer.
Linear 12 (Raso de la Bruma) 2.6km 40 minutes
If you are not an avid walker at all, have limited time, travel with small children, or simply want to see the Laurisilva Forest while making minimal effort, this is the trail for you. There is parking at this point on both sides of the road right where the trailhead is.
Circular 10 (Cañada de Jorge) 3.4km 1:20 hours
The trail starts exactly on the opposite side of the road from Raso de la Bruma. Not as pretty but definitely another good alternative if you want to take a short trail. The forest is less dense and “fairy-like” but still a nice walk.
Circular 6 (La Laguna Grande II) 4.2km 1:30 hours
Although slightly longer than the previous two, it is still largely flat and not too challenging. You cross a part of the national park damaged during a 2012 fire which although sad can be interesting. There is a large parking lot here that also gives access to the La Laguna Grande recreation area where there are benches, barbecue areas, a small information center and a restaurant. In short, lots of amenities, perfect for relaxing between walks.
Circular 5 (Las Creces) 4.5 km 1:30 hours
Another option that is not too strenuous and pleasant. You can park here along the road exactly where the trail begins.
Las Creces Trail.
Circular 37 (Hermigua) 14.3km 4-6 hours
Circular 37, compared to all the trails listed so far, is undoubtedly a more challenging trail with almost 900 meters of elevation gain. The trail crosses the national park and its iconic forest for only a short distance, so if this is what you are looking for it is definitely better to consider other options. In any case, this is a really interesting trail that basically takes you from the edge of the forest down to the center of Hermigua before climbing back up into the park. There are some beautiful views of the Hermigua valley and the Teide in the distance.
Note that this trail literally runs through the camping area (see below in the where to sleep sections) so if you are camping there you don’t even have to move your car, otherwise there is ample parking where you can leave your car and start walking.
Circular 37.
Circular 18 (Alto de Garajonay) 16.1 km 4-6 hours
This is recognized by many as the best trail to complete in a day; it traverses the length and breadth of the forest, passing both the much more mossy north side and the slightly drier south side, reaching the highest point on the island (Alto de Garajonay at 1484m) from which if the day is clear you can see La Palma, Tenerife and El Hierro.
According to the app, the travel time is over nine hours. Personally, at a relatively brisk pace, I completed it in 4 hours. Even going at a leisurely pace I doubt it takes that long. If for any reason 16 km is too much but you still want to go up to the Alto de Garajonay, I recommend circulars 7, 14 or 17. They all go up to the Alto de Garajonay but save quite a bit of elevation gain and kilometers, especially in the case of ruta 7 and 17.
Being a circular trail you could start walking at many different points but I personally recommend parking here especially if you sleep at the campground which is not far away.
Circular 18.
Finally, there are two viewpoints that I highly recommend visiting. First, the Mirador de los Roques, which is perhaps the most iconic on the entire island. I cannot recommend it enough, especially when the Roque de Agando is surrounded by clouds, creating a Jurassic Park-like atmosphere. While the second is the Mirador de Igualero from which you have excellent views of another rock formation, the Fortaleza.
Mirador de los Roques.
Where to sleep in Garajonay National Park?
The only type of lodging within the park is the La Vista campground. It is a somewhat spartan campground but there is everything you need (bathrooms, outdoor showers and even wifi). Besides being strategically located it is also extremely cheap since it costs only 3€ per night per person. I spent four nights there and if you are willing to sleep in a tent I cannot recommend it enough.
La Fortaleza.
Vallehermoso
This small town in the northwest of the island whose name literally means “beautiful valley”-somewhat like Hermigua is not surprisingly set in a beautiful valley leading to the sea. Going down the road to the town offers some pretty good views, and there are at least a couple of viewpoints in the surrounding area that are worth visiting such as the Mirador de la Pilarica and the Mirador de Vallehermoso.
The old town center is pleasant, but not exceptional and has a significant parking issue. Playa de Vallehermoso, the village beach, is not suitable for swimming but on the other hand there is an artificial saltwater pool that was closed, however, during my visit. To conclude, there are several trails that can be completed by starting directly from Vallehermoso and its surroundings, such as Circulars 4,5, 6 and 39.
Vallehermoso.
Where to sleep in Vallehermoso?
I visited Vallehermoso in the day without spending the night but if you decide to stay or perhaps use the town as a base to explore the island then I recommend checking out Telegraph Hostel. Especially if you are traveling alone and looking for something cheap, this is probably one of the best options the island has to offer. The reviews are great.
Gran Rey Valley
Valle Gran Rey is undoubtedly the town’s main tourist destination. Formerly popular with the hippie community looking for somewhere alternative, it has seen a lot of development over the years but still remains a relatively quiet town and a good base especially for those who want to combine excursions to Garajonay National Park with a few days spent at the beach. In fact, the natural pools of Playa Charco del Conde and Playa De Vueltas are perfect for swimming. I also recommend Playa del Inglés just outside of town, it is a beach frequented by nudists not suitable for swimming but perfect for watching the sunset with the island of La Palma in the distance.
Playa de Vueltas
Finally, there are some really nice viewpoints along the road down to Valle Gran Rey, particularly the Mirador de la Curva del Queso and the Mirador César Manrique. If you want there are also a number of trails that run up and down the valley, starting from the center for example you can go up to the Ermita de los Santos Reyes chapel or take the linear trail 9 and 14.
Valle Gran Rey.
Playa Santiago
For years a small fishing village, thanks in part to the proximity of the airport and the construction of a large four-star hotel (Hotel Tecina) over the years it has become the second most popular beach destination on the island after Valle Gran Rey. La Gomera’s only golf course is also here. I spent only one afternoon at the town’s main beach (Playa Santiago) where, especially on the protected side near the port, you can safely swim. The promenade is not bad and there are plenty of bars and restaurants. Otherwise nothing exceptional.
In my opinion, especially if you don’t have much time, it is better to spend your time elsewhere but if you happen to get down to Playa Santiago and feel like walking, I recommend hiking the Circular 24. I walked a section of it following the route described here that avoids going up to Imada and goes down to Playa Santiago saving some miles and elevation gain, doing so is still about 11 km with 700 m elevation gain, 3-4 hours. In any case it is a really nice trail and completely different from what the trails within the national park have to offer.
Circular 24.
Los Organos
This surreal landscape located in the northwest of the island and formed by basalt columns about two hundred meters high and eighty meters wide is unfortunately only visible from the sea. I don’t have exact information about it since I didn’t do the excursion but apparently, especially in the high season, there should be daily tours starting from Playa Santiago and Valle Gran Rey.
Suggested itineraries in La Gomera
The itineraries that follow are designed for a ‘road trip’ style journey. Given the compact size of the island, you are generally never more than an hour’s drive from the main places of interest. The choice of accommodations is quite flexible. Personally, I would recommend heading straight to the La Vista campsite, though I understand that camping may not appeal to everyone. You can also opt to stay in a room in San Sebastián de La Gomera, Vallehermoso, Valle Gran Rey, or perhaps Playa Santiago if you arrive by plane, and use it as a fixed base for your stay on the island.
Hermigua Valley and Tenerife in the background.
Itinerary of 3 days in La Gomera
In case you were wondering how many days you need to visit La Gomera, in my opinion three days is the minimum but of course, especially if you are coming from neighboring Tenerife, you could also take a two-day “trip” and still enjoy the beauty the island has to offer.
Day 1:
Explore the Hermigua Valley, where you can complete Circular 33, check out Playa de la Caleta and the natural pool.
Day 2:
Personally I would opt for Circular 18 but if it is too challenging, consider the other easier options among those recommended in the what to do and see section. Anyway, I would spend all day in the national park. Return to Hermigua for the night.
Day 3:
If timing permits you could return inside the national park to complete a few more trails, otherwise head to San Sebastián, which you can explore briefly before taking the ferry or perhaps spend the day at the beach at Playa Santiago before boarding the plane.
San Sebastian de La Gomera.
Itinerary of 5 days in La Gomera
As with the three-day itinerary, I would personally spend all four nights camping but basically you can decide to use any point on the island as your base or perhaps change locations each night.
Day 1:
Explore the Hermigua Valley, where you can complete Circular 33, check out Playa de la Caleta and the natural pool.
Day 2:
Brief stop at Agulo before continuing to the visitor center and finally entering the national park where I would limit myself to some of the shorter trails.
Day 3:
Personally I would opt for Circular 18 but if it is too challenging, consider the other easier options among those recommended in the what to do and see section. Anyway, I would spend all day in the national park.
Day 4:
If you like to walk I recommend Circular 24 near Playa Santiago and then maybe spend the rest of the day at the beach otherwise go down to Valle Gran Rey where you can spend a relaxing day.
Day 5:
Head to San Sebastián, which you can explore briefly before taking the ferry or perhaps spend the morning on the beach at Playa Santiago before boarding the plane.
Playa del Ingles.
7-day itinerary in La Gomera
With a week or more to spare if you feel like hiking, compared to the five-day itinerary just described, definitely include Circular 37 and perhaps one of the trails from Vallehermoso. A boat trip that includes a visit to Los Organos is definitely another interesting option as you could simply spend a few days at the beach between Playa Santiago and Valle Gran Rey.
How to get around La Gomera
Before discussing how to get around La Gomera, it is important to understand how to get there. Along with El Hierro, La Gomera is the only island in the archipelago that currently has no direct flights from Europe. To reach the island, you have two options: taking a ferry from Tenerife or La Palma, or taking an internal flight from one of the other islands.
Once you arrive, although public transportation is decent, I believe renting a car is by far the best way to explore the island.
North coast with Teide in the background.
Rent a car in La Gomera
Throughout my trip to the Canary Islands, I have almost always rented my car with Cicar: the prices are competitive, you can easily pay without a credit card, no deposit is required, insurance is included and there are no deductibles, but most importantly, they have offices in all the ports and airports on the islands, which is really practical for those who are planning a touring trip.
Many other companies, on the other hand, have offices only at the airport, which is really inconvenient if instead of getting on a plane you want to drop your car off at the port and get on a ferry to another island.
In short, if you have an inter-island road trip on your mind or for whatever reason you don’t want to drop your car off at the airport, Cicar is probably the best option. In all other cases, it’s definitely worth considering other car rentals by checking out sites like Discover Cars.
In any case, whether it’s Cicar or any other company, if you have specific dates, I recommend booking the car a few weeks in advance; doing so can really save you a lot compared to a last-minute rental.
It should also be noted that most car rental companies technically do not permit driving on dirt roads. While we have done so on several occasions during our trip to the Canary Islands, La Gomera’s roads, although winding at times, are generally in good condition.
Additionally, there are companies that technically allow you to take your rental car to another island by ferry, provided you return it to the original island. Many companies explicitly forbid taking their cars off the island at all. While there may not be strict checks at the port, potential issues could arise if assistance is needed.
My advice, should you require it, is to consider renting a different car for each island you visit, or at the very least, thoroughly inquire about the rental company’s policies regarding inter-island travel.
Our Rental Car.
Buses in La Gomera
If you are traveling alone and want to save money compared to the cost of renting a car, have only a few excursions on your mind that you can arrange with some organized tours, don’t feel like driving or for any other reason don’t want to rent a car, public transportation is not bad at all and you can reach virtually any destination on the island with a little planning. On this page you will find the various routes and ride schedules.
Domestic Flights
The only two airlines operating domestic flights between the islands are CanaryFly and BinterCanarias. Prices tend to be very similar but in general Binter seems to be slightly cheaper and even has special fares for under 29s. In any case I recommend taking a look at both and if possible booking at least a few weeks in advance for the best deals.
Ferries to La Gomera
The cheapest alternative to flights and, above all, most practical for moving between adjacent islands are ferries. As a rule of thumb, as long as it is the closest island or at most the next one, so in the case of La Gomera, moves to La Palma and Tenerife, not only do you save money by taking the ferry but it is also much more convenient as you do not have to show up at the airport two hours earlier but can simply go to the port an hour earlier or even less, buy your ticket and board without necessarily booking your trip in advance.
Basically, if you don’t have a well-established itinerary, moving by ferry gives you much more flexibility. However, if for example you want to get to Lanzarote from La Gomera, it is clear that taking the plane is not only much faster but also cheaper. In any case, there are several ferry companies that operate between the islands, Direct Ferris is a site that aggregates all the companies and if you want you can use it to book your tickets.
Specifically, La Gomera has daily departures from San Sebastián to Los Cristianos in Tenerife and Santa Cruz de La Palma with Fred Olsen and Naviera Armas.
Backpacking La Gomera: costs
How much does a trip to La Gomera cost? Obviously it depends on a lot of factors, those who regularly read my blog know that I travel frugally and my trip to the Canary Islands was no exception, in fact I managed to maintain a budget of 1000€ per month or a little over 30€ per day all inclusive.
However, I understand that not everyone is willing or interested in the backpacker’s lifestyle. The good news is that the Canary Islands remain a relatively inexpensive destination by European standards. Prices are generally lower than mainland Spain because the islands are considered a special region where VAT is only 7 percent, and on many consumer goods, you pay no VAT at all.
For example, the cost of gasoline is around 1€ per liter, and a meal at a restaurant, if you’re not too demanding, costs about 10€ or slightly more. In short, while they may not be as cheap as Latin America, by European standards, one can hardly complain about the prices.
Since we’re discussing costs, it’s worth mentioning a great way to keep them low, camping. Free camping in La Gomera, like on the other islands, is technically illegal, but it’s generally tolerated in practice. If you pitch your tent away from view, you shouldn’t encounter any issues. Moreover, during the summer when rainfall is minimal, not pitching a tent at all is even better.
Night spent at Playa Avalo.
During my stay in La Gomera, I spent more than a few nights “camping” on the beach, limiting myself to inflating my camping mat when it was time for bed. Specifically, I slept at Playa de Ávalo, Playa de la Caleta and Playa del Inglés. But again, it is technically illegal, so the choice is yours.
What on the other hand is absolutely legal and I strongly recommend to anyone who wants to spend little money and sleep within walking distance of the limits of Garajonay National Park is to stay overnight at Camping La Vista, as mentioned earlier it is a really spartan campground but for 3€ a night I don’t think you can ask for much more.
Finally, to find places to camp in the Canary Islands I recommend the app park4night, designed especially for those who want to spend the night in an RV, minivan or car it is also a fantastic resource for those who simply want to find a secluded place to pitch their tent or simply put down a mat as we often did.
San Sebastian with Teide in the background.
Backpacking La Gomera: safety
La Gomera and the Canary Islands in general are an absolutely safe destination with really low crime rates. La Gomera is also recommended for families with children. That said, as with any destination, common sense should be used and following classic safety tips never hurts.
The only two notes I would make are to be extremely careful where you swim. This is because being in the ocean, the currents can be extremely dangerous, especially the rip currents that can take you out to sea quickly with potentially fatal consequences. I had the opportunity to meet a gentleman who was taken offshore with his children and he told me how he had already seen the end of it, not exactly a good experience.
Also, many of the more isolated beaches do not have lifeguards, and especially in the off-season you could easily be the only person there. In short, if you are not an experienced swimmer, be careful.
Finally, if you decide to rent a car make sure not to leave any valuables inside when unattended. Unfortunately, seeing broken glass in parking lots and signs urging people not to leave anything in the car are all too common.
Are you planning a trip to La Gomera? Check out these posts:
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