Canary Islands Travel Guide

I visited the Canary Islands archipelago during a two-month trip, exploring all the major islands except El Hierro.

Whether it’s a backpacking adventure, a road trip or an all-inclusive vacation, in this guide you’ll find plenty of useful tips and ideas to plan your trip as best you can and choose the island, or islands, that suit you best.

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The flowers that symbolize the Canary Islands, photographed on La Palma.

When to visit the Canary Islands

The Canary Islands enjoy a good climate throughout the year and can therefore be appreciated in any season. That said, a lot depends on your expectations during the trip and the activities that interest you the most.

Canary Islands in spring

During the spring, temperatures can reach 22-23 degrees and even a few degrees higher toward the end of May when rainfall, which can occasionally occur in March and April, is virtually absent. This makes May particularly ideal for those who want to avoid the crowds and prices that characterize the peak summer season.

Canary Islands in summer

June, July and August are considered high season in the Canary Islands. The weather is excellent, rainfall is absent, and the ocean water begins to warm toward the end of July. Of course, this is also the busiest and most expensive time of the year.

Canary Islands in autumn

September is probably the best month to visit the islands: the beaches are less crowded (especially toward the end of the month), the weather is excellent, and the ocean is warmer than in summer. October is also a good month; the probability of precipitation goes up, but all in all, it’s still pleasant. On the other hand, the likelihood of a few showers increases significantly in November, and temperatures drop, marking the beginning of winter.

Canary Islands in winter

Although winter in the Canary Islands is very different from winter in mainland Europe and – not by chance – the Canary Islands are a popular destination over the Christmas period, December, statistically speaking, is the rainiest month of all.

Nevertheless, precipitation is still relatively low, and during the day, with the sun shining, temperatures can reach 20 degrees even in January and February. In short, don’t expect to bask in the sun or enjoy a swim without a wetsuit, but if all you’re looking for is some sunshine and mild temperatures, you won’t be disappointed.

San Cristóbal de La Laguna with Teide in the background.

Documents and vaccinations to enter the Canary Islands

The Canary Islands are, for all intents and purposes, part of Spain, and therefore, as for any other country within the European Union, if you’re an EU citizen, you don’t need a visa or a passport: a valid ID card is all you need to visit the islands. If, on the other hand, you’re not an EU citizen, the Schengen Area visa policy applies.

Where to go and what to do in the Canary Islands

Below you’ll find mini travel guides for all the islands in the archipelago that I visited, a sort of overview with the best destinations and the most beautiful places to visit, just to give you an idea of what to expect. For more detailed information, check out the guides for each individual island.

Lanzarote

Lanzarote is characterized by volcanoes and lava fields that give rise to “Martian landscapes” but also beautiful white and golden beaches – in my opinion, the most beautiful in the archipelago. That said, the island is really barren and, a bit like Fuerteventura, it can become monotonous after a couple of days. However, if all you’re looking for is a beach destination to go along with some hiking among volcanoes and lava fields, then Lanzarote is definitely a destination to consider.

For itineraries, things to do, things to see, tips and more, check out my travel guide to Lanzarote.

Lava fields in Lanzarote.

Fuerteventura

Fuerteventura, thanks to its many beaches, excellent year-round climate and excellent surfing and windsurfing conditions, is undoubtedly one of the best-known and most popular islands in the Canary Islands archipelago, especially among Italians, who seem to have turned it into an unofficial colony! Fuerteventura, like Lanzarote, is a really barren, almost desert-like island that, in my opinion, can get old quickly, but if the beach and sea are all you’re looking for, you won’t be disappointed.

For itineraries, things to do, things to see, tips and more, check out my Fuerteventura travel guide.

Ajuy village.

Gran Canaria

Gran Canaria is an incredible island because it really has a bit of everything: colonial-style villages, beaches, almost desert-like parts and, further inland, mountains and forests that create an alpine landscape in sharp contrast with the coast a few kilometers below. Although not as varied in landscapes as Tenerife, Gran Canaria still offers many alternatives to those who decide to visit.

For itineraries, things to do, things to see, tips and more, check out my Gran Canaria travel guide.

High-altitude sunset, Gran Canaria.

Tenerife

Tenerife, the largest island in the Canary Islands archipelago, is best known for its beaches, resorts and nightlife – at first glance, not exactly my favorite island! I have to admit, though, that it actually has a lot more to offer: the Martian landscapes of Teide National Park, which at 3,715 meters is the highest peak in all of Spain, the dense Laurisilva forest of Anaga Park, the sheer cliffs of the Teno Massif, and more than a few towns rich in colonial architecture and cultural interest, Tenerife is probably the most varied island and should please pretty much everyone.

For itineraries, things to do, things to see, tips and more, check out my Tenerife travel guide.

Playa de las Teresitas.

La Gomera

A short distance from the far more popular Tenerife, La Gomera is the exact opposite: compact, with a population of about twenty thousand and largely unspoiled, it offers a unique opportunity to anyone who wants to immerse themselves in nature and, in particular, in the fascinating laurisilva forest that characterizes the Garajonay National Park in the center of the island. The beaches aren’t exactly the best, but if you’re looking for a few days immersed in nature among what are undoubtedly some of the most beautiful trails in the archipelago, then you won’t be disappointed.

For itineraries, things to do, things to see, tips and more, check out my travel guide to La Gomera.

Laurisilva forest inside Garajonay National Park.

La Palma

La Palma is a mountainous island that offers an excellent network of trails for all hiking lovers, lush forests, but also colonial towns, such as the beautiful Santa Cruz de La Palma, and a more authentic atmosphere than other, more popular Canary Islands.

As if that weren’t enough, thanks to its geographical location, the morphology of the land and regulations to limit light pollution as much as possible, the island is one of the best places in the world for stargazing. The only negative note is perhaps the beaches, not exactly the most beautiful in the archipelago.

For itineraries, things to do, things to see, tips and more, check out my travel guide to La Palma.

Along the trails of La Palma.

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El Hierro

Although it was part of the plan, unfortunately I didn’t manage to visit the island, so I can’t speak from firsthand experience, but I think all nature lovers looking for an off-the-beaten-path destination and diving enthusiasts – some of the best dive sites in the world are here – should consider it.

The island, the smallest in the archipelago, was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2000, which means that most of its flora and fauna are protected.

This, combined with the fact that only about 20,000 visitors a year venture out here, makes it a really interesting island for those who want to unplug and stay away from the classic tourist circuits that characterize the other islands in the archipelago.

Canary Islands travel itineraries

For specific itineraries for each island, check out the dedicated section within the individual travel guides that I link below for your convenience:

Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, Tenerife, La Gomera and La Palma.

On the other hand, for those who have a multi-island trip in mind, or perhaps the entire archipelago, the itinerary I recommend following for ease of travel is the one you see roughly in the map below; by doing so, you never have to retrace your steps and can simply continue your journey from island to island westward starting from Lanzarote. Doing the itinerary in reverse is “impossible” because there are no direct flights from Italy to La Palma. Finally, remember that the direct ferry and plane connections to El Hierro are exclusively from Tenerife, so, again, if you want to make your travel between the islands as efficient as possible, plan accordingly.

How to get to and around the Canary Islands

To get to the Canary Islands, you have two options: fly or take the ferry from peninsular Spain, more specifically from the cities of Cádiz and Huelva.

As for flights to the Canary Islands, generally speaking, there are direct flights from many European cities to Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria and Tenerife. Low-cost airlines such as RyanAir and EasyJet operate these routes, and therefore, especially in the low season, you can find extremely cheap tickets. I recommend taking a look at my article on how to find low-cost flights.

As for the ferry to reach the islands, I think it’s only worth considering if you have your own minivan or RV and want to spend quite a lot of time on the archipelago; otherwise, even if it isn’t necessary, I think it’s much better to rent a car once you get there.

Mirador de Los Roques, La Gomera.

Rent a car in the Canary Islands

During my trip to the Canary Islands, I almost always ended up renting a car with Cicar: the prices are low, you can easily pay without a credit card, no deposit is required, insurance is included with no deductibles, and best of all, they have offices at all the ports and airports in the Canary Islands. Really practical for those who are planning a multi-stop trip between the islands. Most other companies have offices only at the airport, which can be really inconvenient if, instead of getting on a plane, you want to drop your car off at the port and get on a ferry to another island.

In short, if you’re thinking about a road trip between the islands or, for whatever reason, you don’t want to drop your car off at the airport, Cicar is probably the best option. Otherwise, it’s definitely worth considering other car rental companies by checking out sites like Discover Cars. In any case, whether it’s Cicar or any other company, if you have specific dates, I recommend booking the car a few weeks in advance; doing so can save you a whole lot compared to a last-minute rental.

Also, it’s worth noting that virtually all companies technically don’t allow you to drive on dirt roads; we did it several times, but if you run into any problems, you risk having to pay out of pocket.

Finally, some companies technically allow you to take your car to another island by ferry as long as you return it on the island of departure; many, on paper, don’t allow you to leave the island at all. Of course, there’s no one checking at the port, but if you need assistance, that’s when the problems could start.

My advice, if you need a car, is to rent a different car for each island you visit, or at least find out exactly what you’re allowed to do and what you’re not.

Playa de Tufia, Gran Canaria.

Public transportation in the Canary Islands

If you’re traveling solo and want to save compared to the cost of renting a car, don’t feel like driving, or for any other reason don’t want to rent a car, public transportation on the islands isn’t bad at all, and you can reach virtually any destination with a bit of planning. For the websites of the various bus companies operating on the archipelago, I encourage you to look at the individual guides.

Domestic flights in the Canary Islands

The only two airlines that operate domestic flights between the islands are CanaryFly and BinterCanarias. Prices tend to be very similar, but generally, Binter seems slightly cheaper and has special fares for those under 29. In any case, look at both and, if possible, book at least a few weeks in advance for the best deals.

Ferries in the Canary Islands

The cheaper alternative to flights, and above all the more practical way to get from one island to another, is the ferry. Obviously, if you have to get to La Palma from Fuerteventura, it’s definitely better to fly, but for neighboring islands, not only do you save money by taking the ferry, but it’s much more convenient, since you don’t have to show up at the airport two hours early: you can simply go to the port an hour before or even less, buy your ticket and board without necessarily booking your trip in advance.

Basically, if you don’t have a well-defined itinerary with specific dates, getting around by ferry gives you much more flexibility. In any case, there are several companies operating between the islands. Direct Ferries is a site that aggregates all the companies, and you can book your tickets if you want.

Playa Francesca, La Graciosa.

Backpacking the Canary Islands: costs

How much does a trip to the Canary Islands cost? The budget you need to visit the Canary Islands obviously depends on how you travel and the activities/tours you’re going to do. Those who read my blog know that I travel extremely frugally, and my trip to the Canaries was no exception. I managed to keep to a budget of 1,000€ a month, or just over 30€ a day, all included. The budget can be summed up as: car rental (split with a friend), cooking almost all my meals and a lot of camping. If you’re looking for ideas on how to save money, check out this article.

I fully realize that not everyone is willing to live the backpacker’s life, or interested in it. However, the good news is that the Canary Islands are still a relatively inexpensive destination by European standards.

Prices, in general, are lower than in mainland Spain itself, as the islands are a kind of special region where VAT is only 7% and on many consumer goods, you don’t pay it at all. To give two examples, gasoline costs about 1€ per liter, and a dinner at a restaurant, if you’re not too fussy, costs about 10€ or a little more. In short, they may not be Latin American prices, but by European standards you certainly can’t complain.

Since we’re talking about costs, I think it’s worth saying a few words about what’s definitely a great way to keep them down: camping. Free camping in the Canary Islands is technically illegal, but in reality it’s widely tolerated. If you pitch your tent away from prying eyes, you shouldn’t have any kind of problem, and even better if, given the very low rainfall that characterizes the summer period, you don’t pitch a tent at all. Many nights during my stay in the Canary Islands, I simply blew up my sleeping pad on some beach when it was bedtime. Again, though, it’s technically illegal; the choice is yours.

If you want to stay within the law, virtually all islands have at least some option for camping without breaking the law, and in the case of government campgrounds, it’s even completely free. Booking arrangements vary from island to island, so I encourage you to look at the costs section of the individual guides, where you’ll find more precise information.

Finally, to find places in the Canary Islands to camp, I recommend the app park4night, designed especially for those who want to spend the night in an RV, minivan, or car. It’s also a fantastic resource for those who simply want to find a secluded place to pitch their tent or just put down a sleeping pad, as I often did. Sleeping in a car or, better yet, in a minivan or RV is basically legal everywhere, with a few rare exceptions.

A night spent at the Laguna de Sotavento.

Backpacking the Canary Islands: what to bring

Of course, it depends on the time of year you decide to visit the archipelago and especially the activities you plan to do. For example, if you plan to spend two weeks on the islands’ beaches in the middle of summer, then a few summer clothes are probably more than enough.

If, on the other hand, you plan to climb to the top of Teide in the middle of winter or perhaps take a multi-stop trip around the islands, which includes not only beaches but also some trekking, especially at high altitude, then I strongly recommend that you also bring some slightly heavier clothing, because although the latitudes are generally warm, some parts of the islands can have less than tropical temperatures due to the altitude and, especially at night or in strong winds, it can get really cold.

That said, traveling light is far from impossible, and I suggest you take a look at my travel packing list, which I always use as a starting point when it’s time to pack my backpack for my travels.

Santa Cruz de La Palma seen from above.

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Backpacking the Canary Islands: safety

The Canary Islands, in general, are an absolutely safe destination, with really low crime rates, and are therefore also recommended for families with children. That said, as with any other destination, you should use common sense, and following the classic safety tips never hurts.

The only two notes I’d make are to be extremely careful where you swim. Since this is the ocean, on some beaches the currents can be extremely dangerous, especially the rip currents, which can quickly take you out to sea with potentially fatal consequences. I met a man who got swept out to sea with his children, and he told me how he’d already seen the end coming. Not exactly a nice experience.

Also, a great many of the more isolated beaches don’t have lifeguards, and especially in the low season, you may be the only person there. In short, especially if you’re not an experienced swimmer, be careful.

Finally, if you decide to rent a car, make sure you don’t leave any valuables inside when it’s unattended. Unfortunately, broken car windows in parking lots and signs urging you not to leave anything in your car are all too common.

Are you planning a trip to the Canary Islands? Check out these posts:

Which travel backpack to choose

What to bring on your trip

Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!

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