Gran Canaria Travel Guide

Gran Canaria is a truly incredible island because it really has a bit of everything: colonial-style villages, beaches, almost desert-like areas and, further inland, the mountains and the forest that create an alpine landscape in stark contrast with the coast, just a few kilometers further down.

I visited the island during a two-month trip in which I explored all the major islands of the archipelago, except for El Hierro. Whether it’s a backpacking adventure, a road trip or an all-inclusive vacation, in this guide you’ll find plenty of useful tips and ideas to plan your trip as best you can.

Quick menu

↑ Menu

Roque Bentayga.

When to visit Gran Canaria

Gran Canaria and the Canary Islands more generally have a good climate throughout the year and can therefore be enjoyed in all seasons. That said, much depends on what your expectations are during the trip.

Gran Canaria in springtime

During the spring months, temperatures can reach 22-23 degrees and even a few degrees higher toward the end of May when precipitation, which can occasionally occur in March and April, is instead virtually absent. This makes May particularly ideal for those who want to avoid the crowds and high prices that characterize the peak summer season.

Gran Canaria in summer

In Gran Canaria June, July and August are considered high season. The weather is great, rainfall is absent, and toward the end of July even the ocean water starts to warm up. Of course, this is also the busiest and most expensive time of the year. 

Gran Canaria in autumn

September is probably the best month to visit the island: the beaches are less crowded (especially toward the end of the month), the weather is great, and the ocean is warmer than in summer. October is also a good month; the probability of precipitation increases but all in all it’s still pleasant. In November, however, the likelihood of a few showers increases significantly and temperatures drop, marking the beginning of the winter period. 

Gran Canaria in winter

Although winter in Gran Canaria is quite different from that of mainland Europe and, not surprisingly, the Canaries are a popular destination during the Christmas season, December—according to the data—is the rainiest month of all!

Nevertheless, precipitation is still relatively low and during the day with the sun shining, temperatures can reach 20 degrees even in January and February. In short, don’t expect to bask in the sun or pleasantly swim without a wetsuit, but if all you’re looking for is simply some sunshine and mild temperatures, then you won’t be disappointed.

Documents and vaccinations for going to Gran Canaria

The Canary Islands are, for all intents and purposes, part of Spain, and therefore, as for any other country within the European Union, if you’re an EU citizen you don’t need a visa or a passport: a valid national ID card is all you need to visit the island. Otherwise, the Schengen Area visa policy applies.

What to do and see in Gran Canaria

For convenience, I’ll list the places to visit counterclockwise, starting from the capital Las Palmas and broadly following the coast before ending with the center of the island. If you’re interested, you can find the video of my trip here (in Italian, but you can turn on the subtitles).

N.B. Several times throughout the guide you’ll find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the AllTrails app, you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.

Las Palmas

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria is not only the largest city in the entire archipelago and the capital of the island, but it’s also one of the most populous cities in all of Spain. While I personally preferred to spend my time elsewhere, depending on what you’re looking for, the city certainly has a lot to offer.

The oldest part of the city, and consequently the most historically interesting, is centered around the Catedral de Santa Ana, where you’ll also find the museum Casa de Colón—dedicated to the voyage of Christopher Columbus and especially to the role the Canary Islands played in it—and the Museo Canario dedicated to the history of the islands before the arrival of the Spanish. The city’s most beautiful beach is located to the north, in the center of what is the newest part of the city: Playa Las Canteras, about 3 km long, has a beautiful promenade full of bars and restaurants. Playa El Confital, north of the city, on the other hand, isn’t suitable for swimming but is extremely popular with surfers, as it has what are considered some of the best “tube waves” in all of Europe.

Other attractions to consider are the Jardín Botánico Canario Viera y Clavijo and the Poema del Mar aquarium.

Playa Las Canteras.

Where to sleep in Las Palmas?

Pura Vida Las Palmas and Agüita House, if you’re traveling solo and looking for something cheap, are two great options right in the center and a stone’s throw from the beach. For private rooms check out A Casa Mia.

Las Palmas seen from Playa El Confital.

Caldera de Bandama

The island definitely has much more interesting excursions to offer, but if you’re looking for a nice way to stretch your legs a stone’s throw from the capital, I think Caldera de Bandama is a great option, also suitable for families with children or anyone who isn’t exactly in shape.

The circuit, which basically runs along the crest of an ancient caldera, can be completed in an hour or a little more and, although I think it’s impossible to get lost, you can find all the relevant information on this page. If you don’t feel like walking, or perhaps just want a better view, I recommend climbing to Pico de Bandama, which overlooks the caldera from above and can be easily reached by car. If you’re interested, you can reach the Caldera by taking bus line 311 from Las Palmas.

Along the trail that runs on the crest of the caldera.

View from the top of Pico de Bandama.

Arucas

Located just over ten kilometers from Las Palmas, the town of Arucas—with its iconic cathedral and numerous colonial-style buildings that define the historic center—is definitely a destination worth exploring. Especially as part of what could be a road trip along the island’s north coast, where you’ll find other really interesting little towns, also in colonial style, that can all be visited in a single day.

As I mentioned, the Church of San Juan Bautista is definitely the highlight in town, but the narrow streets and numerous buildings surrounding Plaza de San Juan and Plaza de la Constitución in the historic center are certainly not to be outdone. The Parque Municipal, also known as the Parque de Las Flores, is a great place to relax and visit the Municipal Museum. If you’re interested, just outside the town center there’s a small botanical garden, Jardín de la Marquesa and a Rum distillery. Finally, Mirador de Arucas offers the best views of the town, and especially of the black cathedral towering over the white buildings around it.

The Church of San Juan Bautista.

Teror

The small town is another colonial gem along the island’s north coast. The historic center is really compact so don’t expect to spend who knows how much time exploring it, but I think it’s worth including in your trip. Unfortunately, during my visit, the iconic Basilica de Nuestra Senora was under renovation but the adjacent streets full of colorful houses and colonial architecture are still a feast for the eyes, especially Calle Real de la Plaza that leads right up to the basilica.

Calle Real de la Plaza.

Firgas

Firgas is another really nice colonial-style town a short distance from Teror that’s definitely worth a visit.

Definitely fascinating to visit are El Paseo de Canarias, a flight of stairs with scale models of all the islands in the archipelago, Fuente Paseo de Canarias, another flight of stairs with a multi-level fountain in the middle, and the small square in front of the Iglesia De San Roque.

El Paseo de Canarias.

Cenobio de Valerón

The caves of Valerón are one of the most important archaeological sites on the island. It’s a set of caves (about 300) dug into the rock between seven hundred and a thousand years ago. Nobody knows for sure what they were used for: between those who say it was simply a granary with dedicated spaces for the various families and those who claim it was a monastery, we’ll probably never know for sure.

Unfortunately, during my visit the site was closed due to Covid, so I didn’t get the chance to visit it in person, but I think it’s undoubtedly something interesting to include in your itinerary. You can complete the visit on your own by paying 3€ per person, but guided tours are also offered if you wish. 

The caves of Valerón.

Gáldar

Another point of interest along the north coast is the town of Gáldar, which, although not as extremely compact as Firgas or Teror, can still be visited in a short time. Again, the colonial-style old town is undoubtedly a pleasant place to walk around and perhaps have a bite to eat in one of the many restaurants along Calle Capitan Quesada and around Plaza de Santiago, the town’s main square.

Archaeology enthusiasts can also visit the “Cueva Pintada,” an archaeological site located in the center of town where they can admire wall paintings dating back to pre-Hispanic times. Admission is allowed only by guided tour that lasts about an hour and a half and costs 3€.

Finally, if you’re on the island in December or May, a festival called Gáldar en Flor takes place every year. For the occasion, Calle Capitan Quesada, the main street in the historic center, is filled with flowers and plants, and it seems to be a truly unique sight.

In the streets of Gáldar.

Sardina del Norte

This small fishing village in the far northwest of the island is particularly popular as a diving site. The beach (Playa de Sardina del Norte) isn’t bad at all either. The beach tends to be much sunnier than other options in the north of the island and in line with what the south coast offers from a weather perspective, but with the advantage of being less crowded than the southern beaches.

Agaete

The town is first and foremost the most convenient departure port for ferries to Tenerife and vice versa. The oldest part of the town, or what was once a fishing village, is known as Puerto de Las Nieves. The oldest and most distinctive buildings stand here and there’s a wide selection of bars and restaurants. The town’s two main beaches, Playa de las Nieves and the beach beside the old pier, are also exactly on the Puerto de Las Nieves waterfront. They’re pebble beaches, but still nice and suitable for swimming.  

Another perfect place for swimming, since they’re protected from the ocean waves, are the natural swimming pools north of the town. It’s worth pointing out, though, that while they’re protected from the sea currents, they’re exposed to the wind, which isn’t the case for the beaches in town.

If you’re looking for an uncrowded sandy beach that’s still close to Agaete, check out Playa Guayedra. Positioned in a valley full of palm trees, it’s a really nice beach and not very busy because the road isn’t in great condition. Also, once you’ve parked the car you have to walk down; at high tide, however, the beach almost completely disappears, and it isn’t protected from the currents like the other two beaches or the natural pools.

The town center of Agaete is situated further inland, centered around the Iglesia Matriz de Nuestra Señora de la Concepción. The small center with its classic white buildings and balconies is nice, though in my opinion there’s definitely better on the island. In any case, I think Agaete can be a great base for exploring the northwest of the island while having the sea right on your doorstep.

Where to sleep in Agaete? 

Casa Calma Yoga Guesthouse is a great option both for solo travelers willing to sleep in a dorm and for those who want a private room without spending a fortune.

Playa de las Nieves.

Parque natural de Tamadaba

A short distance from Agaete, heading down the coast to the south, we find the Tamadaba Nature Park, which stretches from the ocean to the mountains and offers several options for those wishing to explore it on foot or by car. 

Driving along the old GC-200 coastal road is indeed a treat for the eyes without making the slightest effort. Unfortunately, the road is blocked by a landslide near Montaña Blanca (at this point). At the moment due to the presence of the new road that runs parallel to it, the local authorities have no intention of clearing it, so you have two options: drive the road up to the point where it’s blocked and then do the same from the other side, or head directly to Mirador del Balcón, skipping the “north side” of the road. The latter is a beautiful viewpoint with a platform that juts out over the cliff, really scenic. 

Moving on to the hikes you can do on foot, here are a few that I recommend.

Mirador del Balcón.

Charco Azul

Charco Azul is a small waterfall that can be reached on foot by following the trail described on this page or this other trail if you prefer a longer circuit. In both cases you start from the village of El Risco. At the base of the waterfall you can also swim, but be aware that in the middle of summer, when it doesn’t rain, the water may be stagnant and therefore not suitable for swimming.

Charco Azul.

Roque Faneque

This is a beautiful trail that isn’t too strenuous—there are no major elevation gains—that leads to a stunning vantage point offering fantastic views of both the northern and southern coast. The trail is described on this page and leads to the base of Roque Faneque. For a shorter and more accessible version that still gives you a similar view, I recommend walking to Mirador Llanos de La Mimbre; the starting point is more or less the same.

View from the base of Roque Faneque.

Camino de San Pedro

Finally, if the distance and elevation gain don’t scare you, I recommend checking out this circuit which has excellent reviews and I think is broadly what some guidebooks mention as the Camino de San Pedro. Unfortunately, due to time constraints, I wasn’t able to complete it.

Where to sleep at the Parque natural de Tamadaba?

Inside the park you can camp in the designated areas of the Llanos de la Mimbre campground, which can be booked through the appropriate portal. Alternatively, Agaete is probably the best base to use.   

Los azulejos

Heading south toward Maspalomas, Los Azulejos are an interesting stop that requires no detour. They’re bare mountain ridges with rather unusual colors due to the minerals that make up the rock.

During the months with the most rainfall, proper natural pools form where you can swim. I just admired the view from the road, but if you want to swim or simply get a different perspective, at this point there’s a trail that climbs up the mountain.

Los azulejos.

Maspalomas

Maspalomas, along with nearby Playa del Inglés, San Agustín and San Fernando, forms an agglomeration that we can describe as a large resort full of tourist facilities on every side.

Nothing exciting as far as I’m concerned, but if all you’re looking for is a destination where you can spend your vacation in peace and quiet with all the amenities, then you can definitely consider Maspalomas and the surrounding area. My travel companion, for example, decided to take a surf lesson with one of the many surf schools in town and was happy with it. From what I’ve been told, the nightlife, while certainly not on the level of the Balearic Islands, is also probably among the best the island has to offer.

What excited me instead, if for no other reason than to take some photos, was to explore the Reserva Natural Especial de Las Dunas de Maspalomas. These dunes, which reach all the way to the sea, offer a unique and fascinating landscape. I recommend visiting especially at sunset, or even better at sunrise. There’s a viewpoint here that also gives easy access to the dunes where you can enjoy going up and down or just admire the sunset. If you arrive by car, I recommend this parking lot: it may have been the time of year, but it was surprisingly half-empty and literally a stone’s throw from the dunes. If you’re interested, on the west side of the dunes, at this location, you can arrange a camel ride.

Maspalomas dunes.

Finally, Playa de Maspalomas and Playa del Inglés, which are located west and east of the dunes respectively, are beautiful sandy beaches suitable for swimming that together form a long stretch of uninterrupted beach of more than 6 km. Even in high season, if you’re willing to walk a bit, you can find your own corner of peace; keep in mind that the central part, by the dunes, is frequented by nudists.

Where to sleep in Maspalomas?

The town doesn’t offer many options for budget travelers, especially if you’re traveling solo. In any case, I recommend checking out Inez & Flor Nice Rooms and Casa Victoria.

Playa del Inglés.

Beaches along the south coast

Along the south coast, in the “surroundings” of Maspalomas, there are dozens of other popular beaches. For obvious time reasons I didn’t visit them all, but if you’re a beach person, I recommend taking note.

In the area west of Maspalomas, known as Mogán, there are some beaches literally built with the idea of meeting tourists’ needs. These artificial beaches are particularly nice, with golden sand, and of course they’re suitable for swimming and have all the amenities. The beaches that fit this description are: Playa de Amadores, Playa Anfi del Mar, Playa de Mogán, and Playa de Puerto Rico. 

Other beaches, not as pretty but definitely less crowded, are Playa de Pasito Blanco, Playa de Patalavaca, and Playa de San Agustín. Although not exactly along the south coast of the island, I strongly recommend Playa de Tufia. This small beach, frequented mostly by locals, has an authentic atmosphere and the small wind-protected bay is suitable not only for swimming but also perfect for snorkeling. 

Finally, if artificial or crowded beaches aren’t your thing, Playa de Güigüí—which can only be reached by boat or on foot at the end of a not-exactly-easy trail described on this page—can certainly be an interesting option for spending a day. Some people even spend the night there, but besides being technically illegal you have to watch out for the tide.

Playa de San Agustín.

Playa de Tufia.

Barranco de las vacas

I haven’t been there personally, but as you go up or down to the center of the island it’s definitely worth considering a short stop at Barranco de las Vacas. It’s a small canyon that’s vaguely reminiscent of Antelope Canyon in Arizona. The short trail starts at this point; you have to leave your car along the road, and apparently there isn’t much parking. Among the various reviews there’s useful info on where to park and find the trailhead, so I recommend taking a look if you decide to visit.

Barranco de las Vacas.

Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.

Tejeda

Nestled in the mountains in the center of the island, a stone’s throw from the main sights of the Nublo Rural Park, Tejeda is not only the ideal base for exploring the park but also an extremely pleasant little town where you can spend a few hours relaxing in its streets or perhaps cooling off inside the municipal swimming pool (admission costs 4€).

Along the road that goes down into the village it isn’t always easy to park, but at this spot there’s a large free parking lot.

Tejeda.

Parque rural del Nublo

The Nublo Rural Park is in the heart of the island and offers unique alpine landscapes, in stark contrast with what you find just a few kilometers further down. If you’re not particularly into hiking, I think spending a day in the park is more than enough, but if, on the other hand, you like walking or simply want to spend a few days surrounded by nature, then staying a few days in the park can definitely be a good idea.

Of course, there are plenty of trails and hikes to choose from; below I’ll list the ones I completed myself. Technically, some of these trails aren’t inside the Parque rural del Nublo, but they’re still nearby in the center of the island, so for simplicity let’s pretend they are!

Roque Nublo

Roque Nublo, the island’s iconic rock from which the park takes its name, is undoubtedly something not to be missed. If you only have time for one long hike, I strongly recommend the circuit you find described in detail on this page. Be careful, however, because this is a fairly challenging trail. In fact, even walking at a really brisk pace, it took me about three and a half hours to complete it—not exactly a walk in the woods.

A much shorter alternative for anyone who wants to visit the iconic Roque Nublo while making minimal effort is the one described on this page. It’s just over 3 km and is by far the shortest trail to the base of the monolith. There’s a fairly large parking lot along the road at the trailhead, but given the popularity of the place, it can fill up quickly, especially in high season. My advice is to arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon, so you also avoid the hottest hours of the day. If you plan to do the circuit mentioned above, although it’s suggested to start from the Mirador de Degollada Becerra (I strongly recommend visiting it at sunset by car!), just so you know, basically any point is fine; I, for example, started directly from the Llanos de la Pez campground.

Roque Nublo.

Pico de la Nieve

At 1949 meters above sea level, Pico de la Nieve is the highest point on the island and offers incredible views all the way to the ocean, with Tenerife and Mount Teide in the distance. The summit can easily be reached by car, but if you’re up for it, I recommend following the short trail described on this page. Starting from the Bailico campground and thus avoiding the section along the road, the circuit can easily be completed in about two hours with the satisfaction of hiking to the highest point on the island. 

Ideally, go up for sunset and descend with a flashlight, or alternatively, as I did, hike up during the day and drive back in the evening for sunset. I recommend arriving early because the parking lot is quite small and the place is really popular, especially at sunset, so much so that it was packed even in the low season.

View from Pico de la Nieve with Teide in the background.

Barranco de Guayadeque

The circuit, described on this page runs on both sides of the Barranco de Guayadeque (a gorge) and briefly crosses the pine forest toward the center of the island. Here too, since it’s a circuit, you can decide to start from any point. If you come from the center of the island you can park at this point as I did without going further down the valley. 

In any case, of the trails I completed in the park, this is the one I liked least. Don’t get me wrong, it’s still a pleasant hike, but if you’re short on days, the Roque Nublo long circuit and Pico de la Nieve are better options.

Finally, I’d also mention the Cascada Bonita circuit, which you’ll find described on this page. It was supposed to be my last hike on the island, but unfortunately the road leading to the trailhead was cut off by a landslide. In any case, the reviews are great, and if I were looking for another idea for a day on the island, I’d definitely give it some thought.

Barranco de Guayadeque.

Where to sleep in the Nublo rural park?

If you’re willing to sleep in a tent, I strongly recommend the Llanos de la Pez Campground area. I spent three nights there, and in addition to being in a strategic location in the center of the park, it has all the amenities. Otherwise, Tejeda and the surrounding area are probably the best option. Mountain Hostel Finca La Isa and Ecoturismo Casa Cueva offer both dorm beds and private rooms at good prices.

Diving in Gran Canaria

I’ll wrap up this section on what to do and see in Gran Canaria with a mention of something that, for many people, is a major draw, since the island is considered one of the best places in the world for diving.

Personally, even though I’ve tried it several times and even got a few certifications, I’m certainly not crazy about diving, but if it’s something you’re already into or the idea appeals to you, the island could be a good place to start. Sardina del Norte, for example, is particularly famous for mantas in the fall, Las Palmas has the largest wreck in the entire Canary Islands, Arinaga, to the east, is known for the ‘El Cabron’ site, and more generally the whole south of the island, especially around Mogán. You can find more information on this website; in any case, there’s certainly no shortage of opportunities, and I’m sure you shouldn’t have any trouble finding a dive shop.

Mirador de Degollada Becerra.

Suggested itineraries in Gran Canaria

I know perfectly well that many people visit Gran Canaria and are more than happy to spend all their time in a single location, limiting themselves to a few day trips. Although the following itineraries are designed for a multi-stop, road-trip style of travel, given the fairly short distances they can still be used by those who opt for a different kind of trip and use a “base” on the island, or at least don’t change where they sleep every other day. In any case, take what follows as a starting point for building an itinerary based on your interests and in light of everything described so far.

3-day itinerary in Gran Canaria

Three days is a bit short to visit the island, but if you’re coming from nearby Tenerife for a short visit it makes “perfect” sense and you can still enjoy what Gran Canaria has to offer.

Agaete (1 night)

Day 1:

Whether you arrive at the airport, the port in Agaete or the one in Las Palmas makes little difference, other than where you decide to spend the night. In any case, I recommend spending the first day exploring the north coast: Arucas, Teror, Firgas, Cenobio de Valerón and Gàldar. 

Tejeda (1 night)

Day 2:

Hike to Roque Nublo, choose between the short and long versions. Explore Tejeda and climb to Pico de la Nieve for sunset.

Maspalomas (1 night)

Day 3:

I’ve put Maspalomas, but really you could spend the day at any of the beaches along the south coast. Watch the sunset at the dunes.

5-day itinerary in Gran Canaria

With two more days available, you can definitely include a few more destinations and explore the island a little more in depth.

Agaete (1 night)

Day 1:

Whether you arrive at the airport, the port in Agaete or the one in Las Palmas makes little difference, other than where you decide to spend the night. In any case, I recommend spending the first day exploring the north coast: Arucas, Teror, Firgas, Cenobio de Valerón and Gàldar. 

Tejeda (2 nights)

Day 2:

Drive along the old GC-200 coastal road, visit the Mirador del Balcón and then go up to the Parque natural de Tamadaba where you can complete the hike to Roque Faneque or just the Mirador Llanos de La Mimbre; another option is the hike to Charco Azul. Reach Tejeda and its surroundings for the night. 

Day 3:

Hike to Roque Nublo, choose between the short and long versions. Explore Tejeda and climb to Pico de la Nieve for sunset.

Maspalomas (2 nights)

Day 4:

I’ve put Maspalomas, but really you could spend the day at any of the beaches along the south coast. Watch the sunset at the dunes.

Day 5:

A day you could simply spend at the beach, or maybe doing some activity you’re interested in, such as surfing or diving.

7-day itinerary in Gran Canaria

In my opinion, one week is the right compromise if you want to discover the island’s main attractions without having to make too many compromises.

Las Palmas (1 night)

Day 1:

Explore the historic center of Las Palmas and everything else the city has to offer. Spend the afternoon at the beach or visit the nearby Caldera de Bandama. 

Agaete (1 night)

Day 2:

Explore the north coast: Arucas, Teror, Firgas, Cenobio de Valerón and Gáldar.

Tejeda (3 nights)

Day 3:

Drive along the old GC-200 coastal road, visit the Mirador del Balcón and then go up to the Parque natural de Tamadaba where you can complete the hike to Roque Faneque or just the Mirador Llanos de La Mimbre; another option is the hike to Charco Azul. Reach Tejeda and its surroundings for the night. 

Day 4:

Hike to Roque Nublo, choose between the short and long versions. Explore Tejeda and climb to Pico de la Nieve for sunset.

Day 5:

Choose another hike to complete within the park.

Maspalomas (2 nights)

Day 6:

I’ve put Maspalomas, but really you could spend the day at any of the beaches along the south coast. Watch the sunset at the dunes.

Day 7:

A day you could simply spend at the beach, or maybe doing some activity you’re interested in, such as surfing or diving.

10-day itinerary in Gran Canaria

With ten days or maybe two weeks available, you can really go far and wide, spending more than a few days relaxing on the beach without necessarily being “active” every day. Use the one-week itinerary I just described, adding a few days of relaxation here and there or maybe doing some activity you’re interested in, such as surf lessons, shopping or whatever else.

How to get around Gran Canaria

As mentioned several times in this guide, unless you plan to spend a beach vacation without moving around too much, I think having a car during your trip to Gran Canaria, or at least renting one for part of your stay, is extremely advisable.

Rent a car in Gran Canaria

During my trip to the Canary Islands, I almost always rented my car with Cicar: the prices are competitive, you can easily pay without a credit card, no deposit is required, insurance is included and there are no deductibles, and above all they have offices at all the ports and airports in the Canary Islands. That’s really practical if you’re planning a multi-stop trip between the islands. Most other companies only have offices at the airport, which can be really inconvenient if instead of getting on a plane you want to drop your car off at the port and get on a ferry to another island. 

In short, if you have an inter-island road trip on your mind or for whatever reason you don’t want to drop your car off at the airport, Cicar is probably the best option. In all other cases, it’s definitely worth considering other car rentals by checking out sites like Discover Cars. In any case, whether it’s Cicar or any other company, if you have specific dates, I recommend booking the car a few weeks in advance; doing so can really save you a lot compared to last-minute bookings. 

Also, it’s worth noting that technically none of the companies allow you to drive on dirt roads. We did it several times, but if you run into any problems, you risk having to pay out of your own pocket.

Finally, there are companies that technically allow you to take the car to another island by ferry, as long as you return it on the island where you rented it; many, on paper, don’t allow you to leave the island at all. Obviously there’s nobody checking at the port, but if you ever need assistance, that’s where the problems could start.

My advice, if you need one, is to rent a different car for each island you visit, or at least find out exactly what you are and aren’t allowed to do.

Roque Nublo.

Buses in Gran Canaria

If you’re traveling solo and want to save on the cost of renting a car, don’t feel like driving, or for any other reason don’t want to rent a car, public transportation isn’t bad at all, and with a little planning you can get to virtually any destination on the island. 

There are two companies that operate public transportation buses: Global (find the various routes here) connects all the major cities on the island while Guaguas Municipales operates mainly in the capital city of Las Palmas.  

Domestic flights

The only two airlines operating domestic flights between the islands are CanaryFly and BinterCanarias. Prices tend to be very similar but in general Binter seems to be slightly cheaper and has special fares for those under 29. In any case, look at both and if possible book at least a few weeks in advance for the best deals.

Ferries to Gran Canaria

The cheapest alternative to flights, and above all the most practical one for getting from one island to another, is the ferry. Obviously, if you need to get to La Palma from Gran Canaria, it’s definitely better to fly, but to go to Fuerteventura and especially neighboring Tenerife, not only do you save money by taking the ferry, but it’s much more convenient, since you don’t have to show up at the airport two hours before but can simply go to the port an hour before or even less, buy your ticket and board without necessarily booking your trip in advance. 

Basically, if you don’t have a fixed itinerary, moving from island to island by ferry gives you much more flexibility. Anyway, there are several companies operating between the islands.

Direct Ferries is a site that aggregates all the companies, and you can book your tickets there if you want.

Specifically, Gran Canaria has several daily departures from Agaete and Las Palmas to Santa Cruz de Tenerife with Fred Olsen, Naviera Armas and Trasmediterranea. Departures to Morro Jable in Fuerteventura, on the other hand, leave from Las Palmas, again with Fred Olsen, Naviera Armas and Trasmediterranea.

Roque Nublo with Tenerife and Teide in the background.

Backpacking Gran Canaria: costs

How much does a trip to Gran Canaria cost? Obviously it depends; those who read my blog know that I travel extremely frugally, and my trip to the Canary Islands was no exception. I managed to stick to a budget of 1,000€ per month, or just over 30€ per day all inclusive. If you’re looking for some ideas on how to save money, check out this article.

I fully realize that not everyone is willing or interested in the backpacker’s life, but the good news is that the Canary Islands are still a relatively inexpensive destination by European standards. Prices in general are lower than in mainland Spain itself because the islands are a kind of special region where VAT is only 7% and on many consumer goods you don’t pay it at all. To give two examples, gasoline costs about 1€ per liter, and a dinner at a restaurant, if you’re not too demanding, costs about 10€ or a little more. In short, they may not be Latin American prices, but by European standards you certainly can’t complain.

Since we’re talking about costs, I think it’s worth saying a few words about what is definitely a great way to keep them down: camping. Wild camping in Gran Canaria is technically illegal, but in reality it’s widely tolerated, so much so that even the locals don’t think twice about it, and I spent a night at Playa de Aguadulce a short distance from two young locals sleeping in a tent. If you set up away from prying eyes you shouldn’t have any kind of problem, even better if, given the very low rainfall in the summertime, you don’t pitch your tent at all.  

During my stay in Gran Canaria, I spent a few nights “camping” on the beach during which I merely inflated my camping mat when it was bedtime. But again, it’s technically illegal; the choice is yours. 

If you want to stay within the law, the island government provides some equipped areas where you can camp legally and for free. I’ve mentioned some of them throughout this guide and at this link you’ll find the complete list. I strongly recommend booking early and, above all, creating the account needed to book, as this step alone can take a few days: once created, it has to be verified by sending an ID document to the email address provided.

Finally, to find places to camp in the Canary Islands I recommend the app park4night, designed especially for those who want to spend the night in an RV, minivan or car. It’s also a fantastic resource for those who simply want to find a secluded place to pitch their tent or put down a mat, as we often did.

Incredible sunsets at Mirador de Degollada Becerra.

To reduce exchange and withdrawal fees, see my guide to the best travel cards.

Backpacking Gran Canaria: safety

Gran Canaria and the Canary Islands in general are an absolutely safe destination, with really low crime rates, and they’re also recommended for families with children. That said, as with any other destination, you should use common sense, and following the classic safety tips never hurts.

The only two things I’d point out: first, be extremely careful where you swim. As you may have noticed, throughout this guide I’ve pointed out several times that some beaches aren’t suitable for swimming. Since this is the ocean, the currents can be extremely dangerous; rip currents in particular can quickly carry you out to sea, with potentially fatal consequences. I met a man who was swept out to sea with his children, and he told me he’d already seen the end coming—not exactly a nice experience.

Second, many of the more isolated beaches don’t have lifeguards, and especially in the low season you may be the only person there. In short, be careful, especially if you’re not an experienced swimmer.

Finally, if you decide to rent a car, make sure you don’t leave any valuables inside when it’s unattended. Unfortunately, broken car windows in parking lots and signs urging you not to leave anything in the car are all too common.

Are you planning a trip to Gran Canaria? Check out these posts:

Which travel backpack to choose

What to bring on your trip

Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!

Since I no longer run ads, if you found this article helpful, please consider purchasing your travel insurance through one of the links on this site. Doing so supports my work at no additional cost to you. For EU and UK residents, I recommend True Traveller. For everyone else, I recommend HeyMondo, which offers a 5% discount. Thank you for your support!

For donations/pizzas and virtual beers 🙂

Did you like the post? Pin it!
 


Leave a Reply