Fuerteventura, thanks to its many beaches, excellent year-round weather and great surfing and windsurfing conditions, is undoubtedly one of the best known and most popular islands in the Canary Islands archipelago.
I visited the island over the course of a two-month trip during which I explored all the major islands of the archipelago, except for El Hierro. Whether it’s a backpacking adventure, a road trip or an all-inclusive vacation, you’ll find plenty of useful tips and insights in this guide to help you plan your trip to the fullest.
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Los Lobos Island.
As anticipated, Fuerteventura, and the Canary Islands more generally, enjoy a good year-round climate and can therefore be enjoyed in all seasons. That said, much depends on what your expectations are during the trip.
During the spring months, temperatures can reach 22-23 degrees Celsius, and even a few degrees higher toward the end of May. Precipitation, which occasionally occurs in March and April, is virtually absent during this time. This makes May particularly ideal for those who want to avoid the crowds and high prices that characterize the peak summer season.
June, July and August are considered high season in Fuerteventura. The weather is great, rainfall is absent, and toward the end of July even the ocean water starts to warm up. Of course, this is also the busiest and most expensive time of the year.
September is probably the best month to visit the island. The beaches are less crowded (especially toward the end of the month), the weather is great and the ocean is warmer than in summer. October is also a good month, the probability of precipitation increases ,but all in all it is still pleasant. In November, on the other hand, the probability of a few showers increases greatly and temperatures drop, marking the beginning of the winter period.
Although winter in Fuerteventura differs significantly from that of mainland Europe—and not coincidentally, the Canary Islands are a popular destination during the Christmas season—December stands out as the rainiest month on record.
Nevertheless, precipitation remains relatively low, and during sunny days, temperatures can reach 20 degrees Celsius even in January and February. In short, don’t expect to bask in the sun or swim comfortably without a wetsuit. However, if all you seek is some sunshine and mild temperatures, you won’t be disappointed.
The Canary Islands are, for all intents and purposes, part of Spain, and therefore, like any other country within the European Union, Schengen Area visa policy applies.
N.b. Several times throughout the guide you will find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the Alltrails app you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.
I usually begin the “what to do and see” section of my guides with the capital of the destination in question, which in this case would be Puerto del Rosario. The town, however, is not particularly interesting and I think it is more practical to start with Corralejo since it seems to be the hub for many travelers who decide to visit the island.
As just mentioned, a great many people, especially younger people, decide to base themselves in Corralejo. The town in the northeast of the island is indeed the place where nightlife is definitely most present. If this is what you are particularly interested in then look no further. The narrow streets of the old town and the waterfront are full of bars and restaurants where you can have a drink and dinner before heading to some of the clubs. On this page you will find a few recommendations.
Saladar de las Lagunillas.
Surf, beaches and dunes
As anticipated, the island is a popular destination among surfers and kitesurfers. If you’re interested, there are numerous schools offering introductory lessons or multi-day courses. During my stay in the low season, the hostel where I stayed offered lessons with instructors in small groups, including all equipment and transportation to the beach, for only 25€. In the high season, you can expect to spend around twice as much.
There are some nice beaches in the town that you can easily reach if you also stay near the center: Playa de Corralejo Viejo, Playa de los Veriliotos and Playa del Medio. A little further south, within the natural park, are the famous dunes of Corralejo; here there are other sandy beaches that are less crowded but also less suitable for swimming; these are beaches mostly frequented by kite surfers but still beautiful: Playa del Pozo, Playa Larga and Playa de los Matos.
The stretch of coast northwest of Corralejo, which I recommend driving through on your way to El Cotillo, which I will discuss later, is instead characterized by rocky beaches. However, a few nice coves can also be found: Playa El Majanicho, also known as “Popcorn Beach” for the curious pebbles found on the beach, Caleta de Beatriz, Punta Blanca, Punta Gorda, and Caleta del Marrajo a stone’s throw from the Toston Lighthouse.
Corralejo dunes.
Isla de los Lobos
The island is part of a nature reserve and has not been permanently inhabited since 1982. It is located a short distance from Corralejo and is an ideal place to spend a day. There are several daily departures from the port; you certainly won’t have a hard time locating the stands that sell tickets! Basically, one is worth the other; the cost is €13.50 for the round trip by boat and €1.50 for processing the island access permit (the latter technically could be requested for free from this page at least 5 days in advance). The return is “open” in the sense that you can take any of the boats going back to Corralejo without necessarily deciding in advance. In any case, I recommend leaving early in the morning, particularly if you plan to complete the route on foot as there is not a thread of shade and in summer it can get really hot.
Once on the island, I recommend completing the walking circuit that from the pier passes El Puertito, the Punta Martiño Lighthouse to the north and finally climbs to the top of Montana la Caldera; from there you have fantastic views of the island itself but also Fuerteventura and Lanzarote. Treat yourself to a few hours of relaxation at Playa de la Concha before returning to the pier and back to Corralejo.
The whole trail can be easily completed in 2-3 hours, it is about 10 km. The trail is really easy to follow and can be viewed here.
Alternatively, if you don’t feel like walking, you could just briefly explore the small port village of El Puertito and then head to the beautiful Playa de la Concha or perhaps take a nice catamaran ride around the island.
Playa de la Concha.
Trekking
Certainly not a must-do hike, but if you feel like going for a hike, the Bayuyo volcano on the outskirts of Corralejo offers an excellent opportunity to spend a few hours. From the top you have wonderful views of the surroundings of Corralejo and more generally of the barren landscape that characterizes the island.
Personally I followed the circular trail described here. It is about 8 km and can be completed in 1.5-2.5 hours but there are also trails going up directly from Corralejo (take a look at organic maps). You can also include the nearby Montana colorada and the Calderon Hondo volcano by following the trail described here for a total of about 14 km or alternatively reserve this hike for another day by following this trail of about 5 km.
Bayuyo volcano view.
Where to sleep in Corralejo?
Kaktus Beach House is a really cheap hostel and all in all not bad at all ,especially considering the central location. I recommend booking in advance because even during my visit in May the hostel was full. Two slightly more expensive and not as well located alternatives are Ohana Guest House Claro and Aloha Surf House.
How to get to Corralejo?
As we will see later in the guide, while not essential (technically you can go almost anywhere by public transportation) I strongly recommend renting a car to explore the island, and the most practical way is probably to do it directly at the airport upon arrival. In any case, if like me you want to spend a few days in Corralejo before visiting other parts of the island, you can save some money and postpone the rental for a few days. In this case, from the airport, you can take line 3 to Puerto de Rosario where you will have to change buses and take line 6 to Corralejo. Buses run frequently and the trip costs €4.80. Alternatively you can take a shuttle, which costs a little more, by booking it at this site at least a few days in advance, especially in high season. The port of Corralejo is also where ferries to Lanzarote depart and arrive (Corralejo – Playa Blanca route).
Playa Larga.
Starting from Corralejo, following the coast westward, one arrives at the small town of El Cotillo. Here one can visit the Torrel del Toston-in the past used as a watchtower for pirates-which dominates the village from the top of the cliff.
The view is great, the tower is honestly nothing much but still worth a visit. Inside there is a small exhibition but during my visit it was closed. From here I recommend going down to the village where there are a couple of nice streets with a lot of restaurants. After having a good meal, I recommend Playa del Muellito.
Other nice beaches to visit around El Cotillo are Playa La Concha to the north and Playa del Castillo to the south, the latter is less suitable for swimming.
El Cotillo.
How to reach El Cotillo?
As mentioned earlier, coming from Corralejo, I strongly recommend following the road along the coast. The road is unpaved but in good condition, and there are many interesting stops along the way. If you are not self-driving, there are buses from Corralejo every hour or so, while direct connections from Puerto del Rosario are less frequent.
Where to sleep in El Cotillo?
El Cotillo does not exactly offer inexpensive solutions and can be easily visited in a day using Corralejo as a base. If you decide to spend the night, Casa Mate Cotillo Mar and Cotillo Arena offer not too expensive apartments that can accommodate up to three people. El Hotelito if you are looking for a hotel instead.
Popcorn beach.
Fuerteventura and the Canary Islands, in general, have many natural pools. These pools are formed by lava flows that have created real saltwater pools where you can swim away from the strong currents that characterize many beaches. Aguas Verde, located halfway between El Cotillo and Ajuy, is one example. A girl I met at the hostel in Corralejo strongly recommended visiting it, but honestly, it partially fell short of my expectations. So, if your days aren’t limited, I would not bother. To reach the natural pools: once you get down to Playa del Valle, walk up the cliff to this point.
Aguas Verde.
Founded in 1404, Betancuria was for years the most important town in the entire archipelago and later the capital of Fuerteventura. It is a perfect little town for a lunch break and a short walk to stretch your legs as you continue your journey south.
Before you even get to the town, if you are coming from the north, I recommend stopping at Mirador Corrales de Guize. From here you can continue on foot to the top of Morro de la Cruz from where you also have excellent views of the eastern part of the island. At the entrance to the town (again coming from the north) and along the main road there are very few parking lots but there is ample parking at this spot complete with a public restroom and free wifi.
Once you arrive in Betancuria, there really isn’t much to do. Visit the main square in front of the Iglesia de Santa Maria, enjoy the relaxed atmosphere and maybe a good meal in one of the little restaurants surrounding the square. You could also hike to Eremita de la Pena, which is a fairly short trail that leads to a small isolated chapel just outside Betancuria.
Betancuria.
This small fishing village, just south of Betancuria, is definitely worth a visit. In addition to being particularly striking with its black beach contrasting the blue sea and its colorful little houses, it is possible to visit the so-called Cuevas de Ajuy, or Ajuy caves, which can be reached at the end of a really pleasant short walk along the cliffs.
Unfortunately, the beach is not the best for swimming. In fact, the currents are really strong but you can still sunbathe and cool your legs in the ocean. The strong contrast between the black beach and the blue ocean make it one of my favorite beaches in Fuerteventura.
Where to sleep in Ajuy?
If you decide to spend the night here, Apartamento Garcey offers apartments at very competitive prices.
Ajuy.
Pájara, capital of the southernmost province of Fuerteventura, is another really nice little town where you can stop for a meal or just have a coffee in one of the cafes along the main street, on the side of the small square in front of the Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Regla. Again, as with Betancuria, don’t expect who knows what, simply a cute little town where you can stop for a walk and maybe have something to eat.
There is a spacious parking lot at this spot, a stone’s throw from the small center, complete with a public restroom. There is also a public swimming pool not far away where you can technically swim in the summer.
If you feel like taking a short hike, about 17 kilometers south of the village, within the Rural Park de Betancuria, there is a relatively popular trail that connects El Cardón to the hermitage La Virgen del Tanquito, a small shrine carved into the rock. On this page you will find a description of the trail (SL-FV 53).
Ajuy Caves.
Not exactly a tourist destination or even a must-see, the wide beach of Gran Tarajal is mostly frequented by locals and can be considered a more authentic experience than other beaches on the island because of this. The sea here is usually calm and suitable for swimming. The promenade, filled with bars, restaurants, and stores, is a pleasant place to walk.
Other than that there is not much else to do. I recommend going out of town, about ten kilometers from the center and reaching Faro de La Entallada from which you have excellent views of the coast. This is the closest point in all the Canaries to Africa and apparently, if the weather cooperates, you can see the African coast. The road up is quite narrow and, especially the last stretch, has a few spots where only one car passes but apparently there is never much traffic.
Faro de Entallada.
Costa Calma is the classic resort town. Hotels, resorts and apartments dedicated to vacationers rule the day. Particularly popular with Germans, the beach is well equipped and suitable for swimming. A little further north is a zoo (Oasis Wildlife Fuerteventura) and a botanical garden (Fuerteventura Botanical Garden).
Slightly south of the resorts that characterize Costa Calma, however, we find the exact opposite. In fact, Laguna de Sotavento and its beach have no structures whatsoever, just a very long stretch of unspoiled coastline characterized by extremely fine white sand. The water in the lagoon is shallow, and even in the middle of winter, the temperature does not drop below 21 degrees Celsius. The only downside is the constant wind, which attracts thousands of windsurfers and kitesurfers. Conditions are so favorable that every July, the beach hosts the World Windsurfing and Kitesurfing Championships. On the opposite side from Costa Calma, at the southern end of Laguna de Sotavento, is another beautiful beach: Risco del Paso.
On the trail to Pico de la Zarza.
The waterfront is teeming with bars, restaurants, and clubs open late, and there is certainly no shortage of hotels. Ferries to Gran Canaria and Tenerife also arrive and depart here (Morro Jable – Las Palmas and Morro Jable – Santa Cruz de Tenerife routes, respectively).
In any case, although Morro Jable is not the most authentic and charming town on the island, its wide beach, Playa del Matorral, is really nice. This white sand beach stretches over four kilometers and is perfect if you want to relax by renting an umbrella and a deck chair. The sea is usually calm, making it ideal for swimming.
A really nice hike that I strongly recommend to anyone willing to put in some effort is the ascent to Pico de la Zarza, which at 807 meters is the highest point on the island.
The trail described on this page makes its way through the Parque Natural Jandía and starts from the outskirts of Morro Jable at this point. It is about 13 km total, you go up and down along the same trail which is really easy to follow and also well marked on organic maps. At a brisk pace I went up in about an hour and a half and down in an hour or so. Once you get to the top you have fantastic views of Cofete beach. I recommend climbing in the morning as the trail is completely exposed to the sun, it can get really hot.
Pico de la Zarza.
The small village of Cofete gives its name to the nearby beach, which is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful in all of Fuerteventura. As beautiful and scenic as it is, however, it is not suitable for swimming due to the strong currents and high waves that characterize it. Nevertheless, it is definitely worth a visit. You will not be disappointed: the mountains overlooking the sea are truly unique and have earned it the distinction of being one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in Europe.
Cofete is reached at the end of a dirt road that is mostly in good condition. I have seen a lot of Fiat 500s tackling it without any problems! The road itself is scenic and if you want there are several spots to stop (I particularly recommend this spot for parking issues). Once there, as mentioned above, there is not much to do except walk on the beach. The beach is by no means equipped, and there are a couple of restaurants in the shantytown-looking village.
If interested, you can visit the nearby Casa Winter, a house now a museum used by Nazi generals fleeing to South America after the end of World War II. Finally, for the more adventurous, there is also the possibility of walking through the “Gran Valle” to Cofete. Follow the trail described on this page (PR FV 55). You can park your car at this spot.
Casa Winter.
Faro de Jandia is the southernmost point on the island of Fuerteventura. Completed in 1864, it is one of the oldest lighthouses in the entire Canary Islands and is still in operation today. There is not much to do or see except contemplate the ocean and take the customary photo. I recommend combining the visit with Cofete and also visiting the Punta Pesebre Lighthouse, slightly further north. Nearby there are many really nice coves such as Playa de los Ojos.
View from Faro de Jandia.
Another resort town, similar in some respects to the aforementioned Costa Calma and Morro Jable. Here the urban center consists mainly of hotels, bars, restaurants and stores.
The golden sand beach (Playa del Castillo) is really nice. It is located inside a bay with extremely calm water and is therefore perfect for swimming. There is everything you might expect from an equipped beach (not only showers, umbrellas and sunbeds but also pedal boats, kayaks, floating slides, etc. etc.) which makes it particularly suitable and frequented by families with children.
Also, a short distance from the coast, there are excellent diving sites.
I end the guide with what has been the capital of the island since 1860. We only stopped in Puerto Rosario for a couple of hours to watch a soccer game after spending the afternoon in nearby Playa Blanca. Playa Blanca, located south of town, is a well-equipped beach and considered one of the best on the island for beginner surfers.
During our brief visit, we were not particularly impressed with the town but in my opinion it is still more interesting than many other resort towns on the island. There is a waterfront where you can pleasantly stroll along and there are plenty of restaurants – such as La Marea – where for just 9€ I had a nice grilled tuna filet with plenty of sides.
For the record, the beach in the center near the port (Playa de los Pozos or Playa Chica) also did not seem so bad and is definitely suitable for swimming.
Faro del Toston.
I know perfectly well that many people visit the island of Fuerteventura and are more than happy to spend all their available time in one location, limiting themselves to a few day trips. While the following itineraries are designed for a road trip, given the relatively short distances involved, they can still be used by those who decide to opt for a different type of travel and use a single “base” on the island. In any case, consider what follows as a starting point for constructing an itinerary based on your interests and in light of what has been described so far.
In my opinion, four or five days in Fuerteventura are more than enough time to see the highlights of the island.
Corralejo (2 nights)
Day 1:
Arrival in Fuerteventura. Rest of the day among the beaches of Corralejo.
Day 2:
Excursion to Isla de Los Lobos.
Ajuy (1 night)
Day 3:
Drive along the coast until you reach El Cotillo. Stop briefly at Betancuria and the Mirador Risco de La Penas before continuing on to Ajuy. Visit the caves and enjoy a beautiful sunset.
Morro Jable (1 night)
Day 4:
Short stop in Pajara before driving to Cofete and if you can reach the Jandia lighthouse. Spend the night in Morro Jable.
Day 5:
If your flight permits, spend the morning at the beach in Morro Jable before heading to the airport.
Playa de Solapa.
With a week to spare, compared to the five-day itinerary just described, I would spend an extra night in Corralejo, perhaps doing a surf lesson, a hike, or just relaxing on the beach. I would also spend an additional night in Morro Jable to climb Pico de la Zarza.
Corralejo (3 nights)
Day 1:
Arrival in Fuerteventura. Rest of the day among the beaches of Corralejo.
Day 2:
Excursion to Isla de Los Lobos.
Day 3:
Choose between a surf lesson, excursion to Bayuyo Volcano and Montana Colorada, or just some relaxation.
Ajuy (1 night)
Day 4:
Drive along the coast until you reach El Cotillo. Stop briefly at Betancuria and the Mirador Risco de La Penas before continuing to Ajuy, visit the caves and enjoy a beautiful sunset.
Morro Jable (2 nights)
Day 5:
Short stop in Pajara before driving to Cofete and if you have time stop at the Jandia lighthouse. Return to Morro Jable for the night.
Day 6:
Excursion to Pico de la Zarza.
Day 7:
If your flight allows, spend the morning at the beach in Morro Jable before heading to the airport.
With ten days to spare, or perhaps two weeks, you certainly have room for a few full days of relaxing on the beach, enjoying a few good nights out, taking surfing and windsurfing lessons, additional hiking, and perhaps even spending a few days in nearby Lanzarote.
On the way to Cofete.
As mentioned several times in this guide, unless you plan to spend your vacation solely on the beach without moving around much, having a car on your trip to Fuerteventura, or at least renting one for part of your stay, is highly advisable.
Mirador de Guise y Ayose.
Throughout my travels in the Canary Islands, I almost always ended up renting a car with Cicar. The prices are competitive, you can safely pay without a credit card, no deposit is required, insurance is included, and there are no deductibles. Best of all, they have offices at all ports and airports in the Canary Islands, which is really practical for those planning an itinerant trip between the islands. Most other companies have offices only at the airport, which can be inconvenient if you want to drop your car off at the port and take a ferry to another island.
In short, if you have a road trip between the islands in mind or for whatever reason you don’t want to drop the car off at the airport, Cicar is probably the best option. In all other cases, it’s definitely worth considering other car rental companies by looking at sites like Discover Cars. In any case, whether you choose Cicar or another company, if you have specific dates, I recommend booking the car a few weeks in advance. Doing so can save you a lot compared to a last-minute rental.
It should also be noted that virtually all companies technically do not allow you to drive on dirt roads. We did so several times, but if you encounter any problems, you risk having to pay out of pocket.
Finally, some companies technically allow you to take your car to another island by ferry as long as you return it to the island of departure. Many on paper do not allow you to leave the island at all. Of course, there is no one to check in at the port, but if something happens, you might get in trouble.
My advice is to rent a different car for each island you visit, or at least find out what you are allowed to do or not do.
Calderon Honto.
If you are traveling alone and want to save money over the cost of renting a car, don’t feel like driving, or for any other reason don’t want to rent a car, public transportation is not bad at all and you can reach virtually any destination on the island with a little planning (there are also buses that go to Cofete). On this page you will find the various routes and ride schedules.
The only two airlines operating domestic flights between the islands are CanaryFly and BinterCanarias. Prices tend to be very similar but in general Binter seems to be slightly cheaper and has special fares for those under 29. In any case, look at both and if possible book at least a few weeks in advance for the best deals.
The cheapest alternative to flights and above all the most practical way to travel between islands are ferries. It is clear that if you have to get to La Palma from Fuerteventura it is definitely better to fly but to go to Gran Canaria, Tenerife and especially neighboring Lanzarote, not only do you save money by taking the ferry but it is much more convenient as you don’t have to show up at the airport two hours earlier but can simply go to the port an hour before or even less, buy your ticket and board without necessarily booking your trip in advance.
Basically, if you don’t have a well-established itinerary, moving by ferry gives you much more flexibility. Anyway, there are several companies that operate between the islands. Direct Ferris is a site that aggregates all the companies and you can book your tickets if you want.
Specifically, Fuerteventura has several daily departures from Corralejo to Playa Blanca in Lanzarote with Fred Olsen, Lineas Romero, and Naviera Armas. From Morro Jable to Las Palmas in Gran Canaria only Fred Olsen and Naviera Armas operate. Ferries to Santa Cruz de Tenerife depart from Morro Jable and Puerto del Rosario with Naviera Armas.
Isla de Los Lobos.
How much does a trip to La Gomera cost? Obviously it depends on a lot of factors, those who regularly read my blog know that I travel frugally and my trip to the Canary Islands was no exception, in fact I managed to maintain a budget of 1000€ per month or a little over 30€ per day all inclusive.
However, I understand that not everyone is willing or interested in the backpacker’s lifestyle. The good news is that the Canary Islands remain a relatively inexpensive destination by European standards. Prices are generally lower than mainland Spain because the islands are considered a special region where VAT is only 7 percent, and on many consumer goods, you pay no VAT at all.
For example, the cost of gasoline is around 1€ per liter, and a meal at a restaurant, if you’re not too demanding, costs about 10€ or slightly more. In short, while they may not be as cheap as Latin America, by European standards, one can hardly complain about the prices.
Since we’re discussing costs, it’s worth mentioning a great way to keep them low, camping. Wild camping in Fuerteventura is technically illegal, but in reality it is widely tolerated. If you pitch your tent away from prying eyes you should not have any kind of problem, even better if, given the very low rainfall that characterizes the summer period, you don’t pitch your tent at all.
During my stay in Fuerteventura, whenever I camped, I simply inflated my camping mat at bedtime. However, it’s important to note that technically, wild camping is illegal, so the decision is yours to make. If you prefer to stay within the law, the island government designates public areas each year where camping is permitted. These dedicated camping zones appear to remain consistent annually, but you must still apply for a permit online through the Cabildo de Fuerteventura website.
Finally, to find places to camp in the Canary Islands I recommend the app park4night, designed especially for those who want to spend the night in an RV, minivan or car. It’s also a great resource for those who simply want to find a secluded place to pitch their tent or simply put down a mat as we often did.
Laguna de Sotavento.
Fuerteventura and the Canary Islands in general is an absolutely safe destination with really low crime rates. It is also recommended for families with children. That said, as with any destination, common sense should be used.
The only two notes I would make are to be extremely careful where you swim, as you may have noticed, throughout this guide, several times I have pointed out that some beaches are suitable for swimming. Since this is ocean, the currents can be extremely dangerous, especially the rip currents can take you out to sea quickly with potentially fatal consequences. I got to know a gentleman who was taken offshore with his children and he told me how he had already seen the end of it, not exactly a good experience.
Also, many of the more isolated beaches do not have lifeguards, and especially in the off-season you may be the only person there. In short, if you are not an experienced swimmer, be careful.
Finally, if you decide to rent a car make sure not to leave any valuables inside when unattended. Unfortunately, seeing broken glass in parking lots and signs urging people not to leave anything in the car are all too common.
Are you planning a trip to Fuerteventura? Check out these posts:
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