New Caledonia Travel Guide

This archipelago, a “French overseas territory,” is considered for all intents and purposes to be part of France. It lies in the middle of the Pacific Ocean off the coast of Australia. This country, unknown to many but definitely among the most beautiful in the world, offers not only stunning beaches and lush rainforests but also an extremely diverse culture. Additionally, it is home to the third longest coral reef on the planet!

I spent a couple of weeks exploring this beautiful archipelago while backpacking. In this guide, you will find a wealth of useful information and tips to help you better plan your trip.

• When to go to New Caledonia
• Documents and vaccinations to enter New Caledonia
• What to do and see in New Caledonia
• Suggested itineraries in New Caledonia
• How to get around New Caledonia
• Backpacking New Caledonia: costs
• Backpacking  Caledonia: safety

Upi Bay, Isle of Pines.

When to go to New Caledonia

New Caledonia essentially has two seasons: the dry season from May to October and the rainy season from November to April.

The climate in New Caledonia is considered semi-tropical. While the difference between the two seasons is distinct, it is less pronounced than in other countries closer to the equator. This makes New Caledonia a potential year-round destination without major weather-related issues. However, it is advisable to avoid February and March, which correspond to the peak of the rainy season and can include cyclonic activity.

Two other periods worth avoiding due to high tourism are mid-December to the end of January, which includes the Christmas holidays in Europe and the summer holidays in neighboring Australia and New Zealand, and July and August, which are the summer vacation months in Europe.

In my opinion, the best time to visit New Caledonia, avoiding high season prices and the peak of the rainy season, is from April to June and September to November. The latter period is generally less rainy and therefore preferable.

A pretty cool bridge in the Hienghene region.

Documents and vaccinations to enter New Caledonia

Most passport holders (with an expiration of less than 6 months) can enter New Caledonia without a visa for short stays (up to 90 days within a 180-day period).

As far as mandatory vaccinations are concerned, the only one required is yellow fever only in case you come from a risky country. Also when traveling I always recommend Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B. 

Traditional pirogue.

What to do and see in New Caledonia

In this guide, prices are expressed in the local currency called “CFP Franc” or “Pacific Franc” often abbreviated simply as “CFP.” The exchange rate at the time of publication of this article is 1€ = 120 CFP. The Pacific Franc is pegged to the euro at a fixed exchange rate of 100 XPF = €0.838 euros. For the current exchange rate with other currencies, I suggest you look at this page.

For convenience, the guide is divided into two sections, the first devoted entirely to the Grande Terre i.e., the main island of New Caledonia that is home to the capital Noumea, and the second devoted to the smaller islands.

N.b. Several times throughout the guide you will find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the Alltrails app you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.

Grande Terre

As previously mentioned, “Grande Terre” refers to the main island, which, as you can see from the map, is the largest in the New Caledonia archipelago. To explore it independently, having a car is practically essential. Although there are bus connections between the main towns, they are infrequent and primarily only reach city centers, not points of interest or more rural areas.

Noumea

The city is considered one of the most European capitals among all the Pacific islands. The vast majority of the archipelago’s population of European descent, primarily French, live here. While it may not be one of the most attractive cities in the world, its compact size, numerous nearby beaches, and a climate that statistically makes it the sunniest capital in the Pacific make it pleasant and livable. However, some neighborhoods, even those not far from the center, can be quite dirty and uninviting.

What to do and see in Noumea

All international flights, as well as flights and ferries to the smaller islands, depart from Noumea Airport. Because of this, you will most likely need to spend at least a few days in the city. Here’s what you can do during your stay.

Ouen Toro Park.

Baie des Citrons, Anse Vata, ile aux Canards and Îlot Maître

Baie des Citrons (Google Maps) and Anse Vata (Google Maps) are probably the two prettiest and most popular beaches in town, but don’t expect anything heavenly. For a decidedly more tropical feel, just take one of the taxi boats that shuttle about every 10 minutes between Anse Vata beach and two islets just offshore: Ile aux Canards (Google Maps) and Ilot Maître (Google Maps).

Ile aux Canards is smaller and has only a restaurant while Ilot Maître is larger and also has a hotel. Both are really nice, offer significantly better beaches than the “mainland” and excellent snorkeling, a nice way to spend the day. If possible avoid weekends when locals also flock to the two islets.

From Anse Vata Bay I also recommend visiting Ouen Toro Park (Google Maps), from the top of the hill where there is a war memorial, there are beautiful views of the city and the bay below.

Ile aux Canards.

Jean-Marie Tjibaou Center Museum

If there is one museum you must visit in New Caledonia, it is undoubtedly this one (Google Maps). Renzo Piano designed the buildings that house the museum and in themselves are worth the entrance fee. 

The museum, located about 8 km north of downtown Noumea, celebrates the Kanak culture, the archipelago’s indigenous people, presenting the history and culture of this ethnic group before and after the advent of the French. 

The center is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Admission costs 1000 CPF (students, children under 18 and seniors over 65 pay 500 CPF). You can get here by bus route N2, which runs every hour from Place Moselle (Google Maps) with a journey time of around 25 minutes.

Jean Marie Tjibaou Center.

The Amédée Lighthouse (le Phare Amédée) 

This lighthouse located on the beautiful island of Amédée about 24 kilometers from Noumea is another particularly iconic and popular destination. Getting there is by no means cheap but all in all I think it is worth it, especially if as in my case your sister is willing to pay for it!

MaryD has virtually a monopoly on organized excursions, the official price for adults is a whopping 16,500 CPF (about €130) and in addition to transportation to and from the island and transfer from the hotel, it includes a range of activities such as a tour on a clear-bottom boat, lighthouse entry, snorkeling, local dance demonstrations, coconut palm climbing, a welcome cocktail and an excellent buffet lunch.

If it’s within your budget, it’s definitely a nice way to spend a day on what is undoubtedly a picture-postcard island. I especially recommend checking out the flash promotions, as there are some dates when the tour is sold for CPF 12,200.

An interesting alternative to the tour offered by MaryD is to use boat taxi companies that provide transportation to and from the island without including food and other activities. This service costs 6,500 CPF (about 50€). While it’s still not cheap, for a large group, the price can likely be negotiated. Coconut Taxi Boat is the company I found but I am sure there are others as well.

Amédée lighthouse.

How to get around Noumea?

Public transportation is not bad at all and can be used to get almost anywhere within the city. The reference site for schedules and routes is this one.

As for travel to and from the international airport (La Tontouta) which is relatively far from the city center, the cheapest option is the regular bus (Line P4) which runs about every hour during the day but has less frequent runs in the evenings and on weekends, stop about 500 meters from the airport, 400 CPF, one and a half hours. Private shuttles leave as each flight arrives and wait just outside the entrance on the right, door-to-door service into town, 3000 CPF, about an hour. Finally a taxi is about 8500 CPF, 45 minutes.

Where to sleep in Noumea?

For those looking for an economical option, the choice is a must: auberges de jeunesse. The facility, located atop a hill overlooking the city, is excellent. The dorms are spacious as are the common areas, and the kitchen is well equipped. I strongly recommend it but suggest booking well in advance as they often sell out. Among hotels, Hotel Beaurivage seems to be a good option that is not too expensive.

Parc Rivière Bleu and south of the Grande Terre

This park, which is located an hour’s drive south of Noumea, offers numerous trails in the greenery and truly impressive scenery. All trails are well marked and it is possible to camp inside the park in designated areas. A detailed map and the park’s official website can be found here.

Parc Rivière Bleu.

As you can see from the map, the southern part of the park is accessible by your own vehicle, while the northern part of “Pont Pérignon” can only be visited on foot, by bike, or via shuttles provided by the park. It is also possible to rent kayaks to explore the lake. 

Some of the park’s landmarks are the Grand Kaori a thousand-year-old tree, the Kagu, a bird that lives exclusively in New Caledonia and can be seen frequently within the park, and finally the drowned forest (La Forêt Noyée), a forest of small Kaoris that lies in the middle of Lake Yaté.

The only access to the park is through the official southern entrance. Admission is 600 CPF for adults. The park is open daily from 7am to 5pm, except Mondays.

Also south of Noumea, about half an hour from the park entrance, I recommend a trip to Madeleine Falls (there is an excellent riverside campground near the falls) and Yaté Dam. 

Still further south is another reserve, Réserve naturelle du Cap N’Dua, which I did not personally visit, however. Within it is an observation point for humpback whales that visit the region annually from mid-July to mid-September.

Finally, to the south, we find one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the country. Known as Cascade de Goro or sometimes Cascade de Wadiana, it is conveniently located along the road, making it easy to access (Google Maps). At the base of the waterfall, it is possible to swim.

Kagu.

La foa

This town, located about 100 km north of Noumea, is usually the first stop on a road trip north. Before even arriving in the town, I recommend stopping at Ouano Beach (Google Maps) where there are a series of educational trails among the mangroves and a coastal trail connecting Ouano North and Ouano South beaches at this point.

From here continue north, pass the town of La Foa and stop at Fort Terembà, this is a fort that served as a prison during the French colonial period, inside there is a rather interesting permanent exhibition. The fort is open to the public daily from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm, admission for adults costs 600 CPF. 

Bourail and Poé Beach

About fifty kilometers further north we find the small village of Bourail. In the village there is a small museum (Google Maps) telling the history of the area and a couple of churches, but nothing more; I recommend continuing to Poe beach (Google Maps) and spending the night here.

Poé Beach.

The beach is really nice, definitely the most beautiful along the west coast of Grande Terre and is a great place to spend a couple of days relaxing. There is also the possibility of good snorkeling as the reef in this area is really close to the shore.

Another activity I recommend is to follow the “Three Bays Trail” (All Trails). Leave your car at this spot just a stone’s throw from La Roche Percée and continue the trail to the Bay of Turtles (Baie des tortues), the Bay of Lovers (Baie des amoureux), and finally this scenic spot before returning to your car along the inner trail or following the trail backwards.

On organic maps what has just been described is much clearer, and most importantly, the trails are plotted.

Where to sleep at Poé beach?

There are a lot of campsites and more or less luxurious hotel facilities along the beach. Auberge de Jeunesse de Poé is an excellent budget option that offers private rooms, dormitories, and even camping. Free kayaks.

Bay of Turtles.

Voh

This municipality in northern New Caledonia became famous because of a curious mangrove formation that, when viewed from above, is shaped like a giant heart. 

To see the famous heart there are both scenic flights and hike to the top of Mt. Ketepai by 4×4 but the cheapest option is undoubtedly to climb on foot. From the base to the top of the mountain is 5 and a half kilometers with 600 meters of elevation gain, so certainly nothing too hard (All Trails). In any case if you want you can stop further down where there is an observation platform that you reach after about 3 kilometers and 300 meters of elevation gain. You can leave your car here.

On google maps the trail is not plotted so for clarity I suggest you take a look at organic maps. I recommend leaving early in the morning from Poé, completing the hike and then continuing to Hienghene without spending the night in Voh.

Heart of Voh.

Hienghene

This is undoubtedly my favorite region of the Grande Terre, the entire stretch of coastline is truly scenic with sheer limestone mountains and lush rainforest contrasting in a landscape that at times resembles that of Halong Bay in Vietnam or some of the islands of Thailand. 

The most iconic rock formation in the region is definitely the “Poule couveuse de Hienghène”. This is a small island not far from the coast that with a little imagination looks like the outline of a Chicken. This is the official viewpoint.

Poule couveuse de Hienghène.

Another excursion I recommend from Hienghène is to the spectacular Tao Waterfall, the whole way north is absolutely scenic and at this point you have to board a small ferry that shuttles frequently between the two banks of the Ouaième River.

To conclude, the area offers excellent access to the nearby coral reef and numerous uninhabited islets. Babou Côté Océan dive center that doubles as a well-equipped campground at this spot is where I spent my nights in Hienghène participating in the Hienga Island tour that includes a nature walk and some of the best snorkeling I have ever done in my life, highly recommended.

Hienga Island Excursion.

Where to sleep in Hienghène?

There are numerous campgrounds in the area but in all honesty I think Babou Côté Océan is hard to beat. On the other hand, if you are looking for more comfortable accommodation, Hotel Koulnoue Village seems to be the only one nearby.

In Hienghène the classic Grande Terre road trip to New Caledonia comes to an end. Now it is time to return to Noumea and explore the islands.

Hienghène coast.

The Islands

The smaller islands are where you will undoubtedly find the most beautiful and pristine beaches in the New Caledonia archipelago so much so that many people snub Grande Terre a bit, unfairly. 

The most famous and touristy, and the only one I have personally visited, is undoubtedly the Island of Pines (île des Pins) which is located not too far from Noumea. The Loyalty Islands (îles Loyauté), of which Lifou, Maré and Ouvéa are the largest, are also definitely worth a visit, from what I have been told.

Isle of Pines

To explore the island, as opposed to the Grande Terre I personally do not think it is necessary to have a car especially if you are staying in Kuto and are willing to get around the island by bicycle, given the size it is absolutely doable. 

I recommend staying at the Nataiwatch GuestHouse, which is about two kilometers from the pier (location) and can therefore be easily reached on foot if desired. The facility offers both bungalows and camping within walking distance of what I think is one of the most beautiful beaches on the island, Kanumera Beach (Google Maps) and even Kutu Beach (Google Maps) is not far away at all.

Kanumera bay.

From the facility it is possible to rent bicycles with which over the course of a day one can easily ride to the Oumagne caves passing through the island’s main villages and perhaps visiting the cemetery and prison ruins of a penal colony (Vestiges Du Bagne).

Grotte d’ Oumagne.

A visit to Pine Island cannot be considered complete without seeing the famous natural pools (Piscine Naturelle). To do this I recommend joining the tour that at Nataiwatch is called “Traditional boat trip”. Basically, in the morning you are loaded onto a minibus and head south to the beautiful Upi Bay; here you board a pirogue that crosses the entire bay from south to north before being dropped off on the beach and thus being able to walk a few kilometers (less than an hour) through the forest until you get to the natural pools where you spend a couple of hours before returning to Nataiwatch. The whole excursion is not exactly cheap but I think it is really worth it!

Of course, through the camp or even other agencies on the island, other activities and excursions such as snorkeling, diving, visiting other islets, etc. etc. can be arranged.

N.b. The tour to the natural pools, and any other activity, in all likelihood can be cheaper if you contact the company in question directly, which in the case of snorkeling/diving is the Kunie Sorry Center or alternatively you could ask the other agencies located around Kuto.

Piscine Naturelle.

Where to sleep in the Isle of Pines?

As mentioned above, I recommend Nataiwatch GuestHouse. The location is great, it can easily be walked to from the pier, the beach is literally no more than 100 meters away, and the facilities are also of very good quality. You can camp or rent bungalows. If you are looking for some more luxurious alternatives, Hotel Kou Bugny is a short distance away and has acceptable prices. Finally, if you can afford it, you can always stay a stone’s throw from the natural pools at Hotel Le Meridien.

How to reach the Isle of Pines? 

You have two options, the cheapest is by sea aboard a ferry, the company is Betico, buying the ticket online gives you a discount of 300 CPF, also promotions are often made. The ferry takes about 2 hours but may not leave because of bad weather and does not have departures every day. 

The more expensive alternative is by air from Noumea Magenta Airport (not La Tontouta International Airport) with AirCaledonie, which offers daily departures that are significantly less weather-prone.

Traditional boat trip.

The Islands of Loyalty (Lifou, Ouvéa, Maré and Tiga) and how to reach them

Lifou, Ouvéa and Maré can be reached either by plane with AirCaledonie or by ferry with Betico from Noumea, again the ferry is cheaper but more subject to weather and less frequent departures. From what I have been told there are cargo ships that accept passengers and are obviously significantly cheaper than plane and ferry but I strongly recommend asking locally.

For inter-island travel, on the other hand, boat connections are infrequent and it is best to ask locally, while by air AirLoyaute airlines operate several flights between all the Loyalty Islands including little Tiga (a couple of times a week).

Lifou

Lifou is the second-largest island in the New Caledonia archipelago (after Grande Terre) and the largest and most populous of the Loyalty Islands, as well as the most frequented by passing cruisers who often stop at Easo in the northwest to make day trips. To visit Lifou freely, as opposed to the Isle of Pines, given its size it may be advisable to rent a car.

The Jokin Cliffs (Falaises de Jokin) are probably the island’s most famous attraction, here concrete stairs give access to a really pretty little bay that offers some great snorkeling.

Further south, however, Luengoni Beach is famous for being a bay where turtles can often be seen. There are also several vanilla plantations on the island that can be visited; I think it almost goes without saying that scattered along the coast are plenty of world-class diving spots.

The Jokin Cliffs.

Ouvéa

This beautiful island is only 35 kilometers long and only 40 meters wide in some sections. It has a single road running north-south and a white beach that stretches 25 kilometers on the inland side and overlooks the large lagoon formed by the reef (just to give you the idea).

In addition to the beautiful beach and the almost endless opportunities for diving and snorkeling, you might check out the small Church of the Holy Name of Mary, Hanawa the Blue Gallery of Turtles (Trou Bleu d’Hanawa), and the Coconut Oil and Soap Factory (free visit).

For those looking for a place to camp, Camping de Lekine seems to be a good solution.  

Trou Bleu d’Hanawa.

Maré

The southernmost island in the Loyalty Islands archipelago is also the highest, with its 5 layers of reefs in fact reaching almost 130 meters in elevation at the highest points, and the entire island is characterized by steep cliffs, dense rainforest, numerous sinkholes (similar to Cenotes in Mexico) and of course beautiful beaches and numerous snorkeling and diving opportunities. Even in Maré, given its size, it is advisable to have a car.

The main attractions of the island are the leap of the warrior (Le Saut Du Guerrier), Shabadran Bay where there is a small beach considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the world that can only be reached at the end of two hours of walking among sharp corals and lush vegetation which makes it decidedly unvisited (excellent photo story). Finally, the Natural Aquarium, a beautiful natural pool nestled in the forest that can be reached at the end of a short trail.

Shabadran bay.

Tiga

Tiga is by far the smallest island of the Loyalty Islands, in fact measuring only 6 kilometers in length and two kilometers in width, tourism is decidedly underdeveloped but it is possible to visit in a day trip from Lifou if there are enough people interested in the excursion.

On the island it is as if time has stood still and its inhabitants still live as they once did, and the entire island is considered a tribute to the traditions of the indigenous tribes.

Tiga island.

Noumea (2 nights)

Day 1:

If you arrived the previous evening or early morning then you could visit the Jean-Marie Tjibaou Center museum in the morning and then one between the islets Le aux Canards and Ilot Maître.

Day 2:

If budget is not an issue then visit the Amédée Lighthouse otherwise spend another day at the beach or go directly to the next day of the itinerary.

Parc Rivière Bleu (1 night)

Day 3:

Take a rental car and visit the Parc Rivière Bleu.

Poe’s Beach (2 nights)

Day 4:

Leave early in the morning because you have a long day ahead. Visit the Cascades de la Madeleine and Cascades de Wadiana before heading north to La Foa, Fort Terembà and Ouano Beach, and finally reach Poe Beach where you will spend the night. 

Day 5:

In the morning complete the Three Bays Trail and spend the afternoon at the beach in Poe.

Hienghene (3 nights)

Day 6:

Go to Voh, climb to the top of Mount Ketepaik to see Voh’s famous heart and then head to Hienghene to spend the night.

Day 7:

Explore the coast to Tao Falls.

Day 8:

Excursion to coral reefs/islands in front of Hienghène.

Noumea(1 night)

Day 9:

Return to Noumea.

Isle of Pines (4 nights)

Day 10:

Noumea – Isle of Pines transfer.

Day 11:

Explore the island and its many bays by bicycle.

Day 12:

Excursion to Upi Bay and natural pools.

Day 13:

Snorkeling/diving/other excursions or simply relaxing on the beach.

Day 14:

Return to Noumea.

This is essentially the itinerary I followed. I believe it strikes a good balance between exploration and beach time. However, if you prefer more beach activities or are seeking a purely “tropical” trip and only have two weeks available, you might consider skipping Grande Terre in favor of the Loyalty Islands.

Three-week itinerary in New Caledonia

With three weeks to spare in addition to the itinerary just described, you can easily include a week in the Loyalty Islands, perhaps choosing two from Lifou, Ouvéa, Maré. 

How to get around New Caledonia

As previously mentioned, the best way to get around Grande Terre is undoubtedly by renting a car. The main roads are in excellent condition, and traffic is moderate, making driving quite pleasant.

Renting a small car, which is more than sufficient to explore the island, starts at 30-35€ per day for a week. For those on a tight budget, I highly recommend staying in a hostel in Noumea and asking if someone is willing to share the rental costs. You might also be lucky enough to find a ride. For example, my sister and I easily found two French women who were more than happy to share a car during our road trip to Grande Terre. You can compare car rentals by checking out sites like Discover Cars.

When you choose a small car to save money.

As for the islands, starting from Noumea there are two options to reach them: the cheapest in principle is by ferry with Betico, the second by plane with AirCaledonie. While for travel between islands there are cargo ships and possibly other ships but nothing scheduled and it is best to ask locally, while AirLoyaute offers daily flights.

In conclusion, if you plan to visit multiple islands, I strongly suggest you take a look at the AirCaledonie Pass, which basically includes 4 routes of your choice for 30388 CPF. It can be really advantageous in certain situations but I still recommend you take a look at the single fares because, especially outside of peak season, there are often promo fares that if booked individually are cheaper than the pass, do your math.

Backpacking New Caledonia: costs

New Caledonia is by no means a cheap country. Prices in many respects are comparable to those of some western countries, sometimes even higher, especially when it comes to imported goods.   

That said, traveling cheaply in New Caledonia is definitely possible. Camping is extremely popular, and sites are numerous and well-equipped throughout the archipelago. In fact, the only night I spent in a hostel was in Noumea; everywhere else, I camped. On average, camping costs no more than 5-10€ per night.

If camping is not for you, be cautious about relying solely on online booking sites for accommodations. There are many more lodging options on the islands than those listed on the internet. Take a look at this page. Additionally, even on this recommended website, not all available accommodations are listed, especially the “Kanak homestays” (accommodations provided by the indigenous people), which are often very affordable compared to hotels.

Bougna, typical local dish.

As for transportation, to and from the islands the fares are fairly standard but keep an eye on the Betico and AirCaledonie sites that often make seasonal deals online. As previously mentioned, the best way to save money on car rentals is by sharing. Also, keep in mind that in some cases, a bicycle might be sufficient. Hitchhiking is generally safe and is undoubtedly an economical option.

Finally, try to bring a mask and snorkel from home. This is probably the best advice I can give you to enjoy the wonders of this amazing country without necessarily having to rent equipment every time! 

In conclusion, by camping, cooking most of your meals, and avoiding renting a car by yourself when possible, it is definitely possible to explore the country on a budget of 30-40€ per day, including some guided activities.

Snorkelling.

Backpacking New Caledonia: safety

New Caledonia is generally a safe country, and crime is practically nonexistent on the smaller islands. The only place that didn’t give me a good feeling was the port area of Noumea in the evening, but like all cities of a certain size, there are neighborhoods best avoided, especially at night.

When in the water, it’s worth following a few precautions. Avoid contact with sea urchins and corals. The Tricot Rayé is a sea snake endemic to New Caledonia. It is extremely venomous but also very shy, only attacking if it feels threatened and tends to avoid contact with humans.

For the most part, don’t worry too much—New Caledonia is not a dangerous country to visit. If you’re looking for more tips, you can always read my advice on how to travel safely anywhere in the world.

Update: There has been significant political unrest in recent years, so make sure you get up-to-date information about the situation.

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