Nicaragua Travel Guide
Nicaragua was without a doubt my favorite country during my backpacking trip to Central America. Volcanoes, colonial cities, paradise islands and one-of-a-kind activities, all at bargain prices.
Whether you’re looking for nature, culture or adventure, Nicaragua has something to offer for everyone, and in this guide you’ll find plenty of information and tips to help you best plan your trip to Nicaragua.
Quick menu
- When to visit Nicaragua
- Documents and vaccinations to enter Nicaragua
- What to do and see in Nicaragua
- Suggested Nicaragua itineraries
- How to get around Nicaragua
- Backpacking Nicaragua: costs
- Backpacking Nicaragua: safety
Volcano Telica, León.
When to visit Nicaragua
In Nicaragua, on the Pacific Ocean side where the main tourist destinations are located, there are two distinct seasons:
The dry season runs from December to April. It can be extremely hot but generally dry, coinciding with the peak tourist season.
The rainy season runs from May to November, characterized by almost daily rainfall, often concentrated in the afternoons.
The Caribbean coast is hot and humid year-round, with September and October being particularly rainy due to the peak of tropical storms.
The central mountainous region has its own climate, with sporadic rainfall and lower temperatures compared to the rest of the country.
Volcano Cerro Negro.
Documents and vaccinations to enter Nicaragua
Most passport holders receive a 90-day tourist visa upon entering the country.
Note: Nicaragua, along with Guatemala, Honduras, and El Salvador, is part of CA-4, an agreement allowing a maximum stay of 90 days within these four countries. For example, if you spend 40 days in Nicaragua, then 20 days in Honduras, and another 20 days in El Salvador before entering Guatemala, you will only be granted a 10-day visa upon entry to Guatemala.
You can renew your visa for an additional 90 days for the entire CA-4 region by crossing the border to Mexico or Belize to the north, or Costa Rica to the south, either by land or by air, even for just a day, performing a “visa run.”
Alternatively, you can renew your visa for another 90 days at an immigration office in one of the four countries. This process can be done only once, and the cost varies by country.
There is a $12 entry fee and $2 exit fee.
El Salvador officially requires vaccination against yellow fever if you have recently been in an at-risk country (much of South America and Central Africa). While this check seems discretionary, it is advisable to get the vaccination if coming from one of these countries to avoid potential issues. Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B vaccinations are always recommended.
What to do and see in Nicaragua
Nicaragua is the largest country in Central America, but fortunately, most tourist destinations are conveniently concentrated in the southwest, making travel relatively short.
In this guide, you will often find references to prices. The local currency is called the “Cordoba,” abbreviated as “NIO” or simply “C,” but the U.S. dollar is also widely accepted. The U.S. dollar, much like in Costa Rica, is accepted virtually everywhere. It can be withdrawn at ATMs and is often used as the official currency for tourist activities.
I recommend carrying both currencies. For transportation, food, and local businesses, it’s cheaper to pay in Cordobas because, although the dollar is accepted, it is often given an unfavorable exchange rate. On the other hand, for paying for hostels, hotels, and tours, using the dollar is often more economical.
The exchange rate, at the time of publication of this article, is 1€ = 37 NIO and 1$ = 32 NIO. For the current exchange rate, I suggest you look at this page.
N.b. Several times throughout the guide, you will find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. Upgrade to the pro version if you want offline navigation directly from the Alltrails app. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the site’s desktop version in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to organic maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.
San Juan Del Sur
For those coming from Costa Rica, San Juan del Sur is usually the first destination in Nicaragua. It is basically a “party town” with excellent surf at nearby beaches.
What to do and see in San Juan del Sur
As mentioned, San Juan is an excellent place to surf and learn to surf. There are numerous schools, and many hostels offer surfing lessons. Jeeps shuttle from San Juan to the various beaches. Since the best beaches for surfing are outside San Juan, you might consider staying between Playa Marsella and Maderas, the prettiest and most popular beaches.
Another major attraction is the “Sunday Funday,” a pub crawl in the area that takes place every Sunday. Although I haven’t personally participated, I’ve met travelers who have returned to San Juan multiple times during their trip to Nicaragua just to join this event. During a trip to Central America, you are bound to see someone wearing the event’s tank top! Admission is $30 and does not include drinks. This is the official Instagram page for the event.
Another popular activity in San Juan is hiking up to the miniature Christ the Redeemer statue that overlooks the bay from the hill north of the city. It’s about a 20- to 30-minute walk from downtown, and admission costs $2. The views of the bay and harbor are stunning, especially at sunset (Google Maps).
If you are in San Juan between July and January, particularly during the peak months of October and November, you could visit the nearby reserve at Playa La Flor, about 18 km south of San Juan. Here, olive ridley turtles come to breed every year, and it is possible to observe them. Admission to the reserve costs 200C, and it can be reached from San Juan by taking the bus to El Ostional.
I’ll be honest, San Juan didn’t excite me all that much. It felt really expensive compared to the rest of the country and too touristy. However, it was a nice way to break up my trip north from Costa Rica. If you’re not interested in surfing or the nightlife, I would skip it.
San Juan del Sur.
Where to sleep in San Juan del Sur?
I stayed at the Casa Oro hostel and I would recommend it, clean, cheap and well organized, with a great breakfast included in the price. Another great option is Hostel SaltWater. However, if you are looking for a party hostel, the three most popular are: Pacha Mama, Naked Tiger and Casa de Olas. Pacha Mama offers guests Sunday Funday tickets for $15 .
How to get to San Juan del Sur?
Coming from the north, take a bus to Rivas that has frequent connections to Managua, Masaya, and Granada. Once in Rivas there are frequent departures to San Juan del Sur.
If, on the other hand, you are coming from Costa Rica, once you cross the border at Penas Blanca, take the bus to Rivas and ask the driver to get off at La Virgen (10C), cross the road and wait for the San Juan-bound bus coming from Rivas (10C).
Ometepe
Ometepe is an extraordinary island formed by the union of two volcanic islands located in the middle of Lake Nicaragua. The island is really undeveloped and the atmosphere is very relaxed.
What to do and see in Ometepe
The two islands offer plenty of activities: from trekking to the two volcanoes, kayak tours, coffee tours, and much more. You can also simply relax in a hammock while enjoying the views of the lake and volcanoes.
Concepcion volcano and the Ometepe airstrip.
Explore the island on two wheels
Renting a scooter or motorcycle is undoubtedly the most practical way to explore the island as public transportation, while present, is not particularly efficient. Scooters can be rented for $15 per day and motorcycles for $20. In one day it is possible to do the complete loop of the island. Please note that the section behind the Maderas volcano is not paved.
Along the way I recommend stopping at “El pital Chcocolate Paradise“, a small restaurant/bar that makes chocolate on site, if interested a free mini-tour is offered on how the chocolate is made. Food is not exactly cheap but the place is really nice and the products are really good.
Visit the Ojo de Agua
Ojo de Agua (Google Maps) is nothing more than a natural water spring nestled in the jungle, later transformed into a swimming pool. The place is atmospheric and well equipped although it can get crowded. It is located along the road that connects the two islands and can be reached by bus if desired. The entrance fee is $10 but that gives you $5 to spend on food or drinks once inside.
Climb the volcanoes
It is possible to climb both volcanoes; unfortunately, I visited Nicaragua during the rainy season. During my stay in Ometepe the tops of the volcanoes were perpetually shrouded in clouds, except for the early hours of the day, so I felt there was little point in climbing to the top.
Anyway, know that going up to the top of the Concepcion volcano is not easy at all (it is about 1500 meters of elevation gain) and a guide is required by law, on average it takes people about 8 to 10 hours to complete the hike. If done in a group, the hike is not too expensive; it was offered to me and three other guys for $5 each. You can find the trail on All Trails, people report that it can be done without a guide and if you start early enough you don’t have to pay for the entrance either. Read the comments.
At the Maderas volcano crater, however, you can climb without the need for a guide and it is less exhausting than its big brother. There are a couple of trails but the most popular is the one from Balgue, the whole hike should take about 6 hours. You can find the trail on All Trails. According to the comments, local farmers ask for 3$ to go through their land.
Maderas Volcano.
San Ramon Waterfall
On the southern slope of Maderas volcano is the San Ramon Waterfall (Google Maps), 64 meters high and certainly among the most impressive in the country. The trail to the waterfall is about 3 km long (also marked on organic maps), and entry costs $2. It is possible to get there by bus from Moyogalpa but by scooter/motorbike it is definitely faster, even hitchhiking would probably be faster than the bus.
Where to sleep in Ometepe?
Hostels are mainly in Moyogalpa and Balgue. I slept at a very cheap hostel in Moyogalpa that I would not recommend but a friend was sleeping at Hostel Life is Good so I got to see it and it was really nice. I would stay there.
How to reach Ometepe?
From wherever you are in the country, you must first reach the town of Rivas. From Rivas you then have to reach the small town of San Jorge from where the ferry departs, there is a bus that leaves from the north side of the terminal (7C) or by taxi (20C). The boat/ferry trip costs 35-50 C depending on the company/type of boat. There are departures every half hour or so so don’t worry too much. You can find the schedule here.
Granada
Granada is the oldest colonial city in Nicaragua and arguably the most touristed and visited. Compared to its eternal rival, León, the city seems to have been nicely cleaned up in recent years, with many renovated buildings, numerous bars, and restaurants in the central area.
What to Do and See in and Around GranadaSpend at least half a day wandering around the cobblestone streets and colorful buildings, which are extremely photogenic. I recommend climbing the clock tower of La Merced Church (Google Maps) for a great view of the city and the nearby cathedral. The clock tower is open to the public every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., with an entrance fee of $1.
Granada.
Tour to Las Isletas
This is one of the city’s most popular tours. The tour is fairly standard and involves visiting the hundreds of small islands located in the nearby bay on Lake Nicaragua. It starts with a visit to the old Spanish fort (Google Maps) built to protect the city from pirates, followed by sailing between islands where you are shown numerous villas of the country’s wealthy. You’ll visit Monkey Island and finish at one of the many restaurants on the islands.
The official price for the tour is about $10-15. However, with some other travelers, I managed to get a tour from a guy I met on the way to the port. After haggling, we paid $5 each for the tour, including transportation to and from the port, which is 4 km from downtown. I recommend doing the same and going directly to the port without booking through an agency.
San Pablo fort.
Masaya volcano
Masaya Volcano is one of the few volcanoes in the world where you can see an active lava lake: once you get to the top of the volcano you can see lava bubbling inside the crater.
You can visit the park during the day, but the best time to visit is in the evening when you can clearly see the lava. The problem is that public transportation in the evening is practically nonexistent. Even if you manage to reach the park entrance, you would still have to try to hitchhike up to the crater since walking is not allowed. Therefore, it is worth joining a tour, which can be found for about $20. Considering that the park entrance alone costs $10, and the tour includes door-to-door transportation from Granada, it’s a good deal.
Once you arrive at the park entrance, you have to wait your turn because only a certain number of vehicles can go up to the crater at the same time. Once you get to the top, you only have about 20 minutes before you have to descend. In my opinion, it is absolutely worth it.
Masaya volcano.
Laguna de Apoyo
This lagoon, not far from Granada, is truly a special place. Formed within the crater of a now inactive volcano, the lagoon has been a protected area for years with very few structures built on its shores. It gives the idea of being out of the world, immersed in nature. If you decide to spend a few days here, you can walk to Catarina, a small town on the slopes of the crater where you will enjoy beautiful views. You can find a nice view point here.
Some public access can be found, but the nicer and cleaner areas are controlled by hotels and resorts. The most common way to visit is through the Paradise Hostel, which offers private beach access and use of kayaks and facilities, for $7. The hostel also offers a $6 shuttle service from Granada. It can be booked from any hostel in town with departure at 10 a.m. and return at 4 p.m.
The hostel is really nice and the dorm costs about $15 per night, considering that daily access costs $7 I recommend spending at least one night there but book early! However, on the shores of the lagoon there are other really nice properties like Laguna Beach Club.
Laguna de Apoyo.
Mombacho Volcano
The volcano is only 20 minutes from Granada. A reserve covered by a cloud forest stands on the summit. There is only one short trail that you can hike on your own; the rest requires a guide. Clouds permitting, you have excellent views of Granada and the Isletas below.
I have not personally been there but I found this interesting article that explains how you can get from Granada to the entrance of the park and visit it on your own, spending about $6, without joining a tour, which would cost you a minimum of $40. From what it says, however, be prepared for a long walk uphill.
Where to sleep in Granada?
De Boca en Boca is without a doubt one of the best hostels I have ever stayed in, cheap, clean, breakfast included, great staff and a beautiful indoor garden. Make your reservations early!
How to reach Granada?
From Managua there are regular departures from UCA Terminal, 29C, about an hour and a half. From Léon take the microbus to Managua UCA and then the direct one to Granada.
From San Juan or Ometepe reach Rivas first. From rivas terminal there are 7 departures per day, 34C, two and a half hours.
Managua
The city, the country’s capital, was devastated by two earthquakes in 1931 and 1972. Santiago Cathedral (Google Maps), located in the historic center, is one of the few historic buildings that managed to withstand the second earthquake.
Honestly, the city itself is not exceptional and gives the impression of being unremarkable. Half a day is enough to explore the area adjacent to the cathedral, which is nice and certainly among the more vibrant parts of town. If possible, try to spend more time elsewhere in Nicaragua.
Santiago Cathedral.
Where to sleep in Managua?
I spent one night at Managua Backpackers Inn, a good hostel not far from the UCA minibus terminal.
How to reach Managua?
From all major cities in the country there are direct buses. Be careful, however, because there is no single terminal in Managua. The UCA Terminal (Google Maps) serves mainly Granada and Léon, while Mercado El Mayoreo (Google Maps) serves the Caribbean coast and the north of the country.
Bluefields
For those who want to reach the Corn Islands without flying and save quite a bit of money (I discuss this in more detail shortly), Bluefields is a must, and you may have to spend a night there.
The town is very unique: the region was settled by the English, not the Spanish, and the population is a mix of indigenous people, descendants of English and Spanish settlers, and freed or escaped slaves. The most common language is Creole English. Many people speak Spanish only as a second or third language, and some do not speak it at all.
Honestly, there is not much to do in Bluefields, and the town is certainly not picturesque, but it is definitely an interesting place to see on the way to the Corn Islands. An American sociologist we met at the hostel lived there for six months to do research and called it an amazing city… everything is subjective.
I had to spend four days there waiting for the weather to improve so that I could take the ferry to the islands. Frankly, I was glad to leave, although it was good to spend those days with people who have become very good friends.
Synchronized diving to empty the pool.
Where to sleep in Bluefields?
Hostal Dona vero don’t expect anything much but the hostel is extremely cheap and there is even a “pool,” the ladies who run it are really nice.
How to reach Bluefields?
It is possible to fly to Bluefields from Managua, but honestly, it is not worth it. You are better off flying directly to the Corn Islands, unless you specifically want to visit Bluefields.
Previously, the only other way to reach Bluefields was by a combination of bus and panga (small motor boats) via El Rama—a journey I took in July 2017. However, there is now a much more convenient road that connects Managua directly to Bluefields.
Buses leave from Mercado Ivan Montenegro (Google Maps), and the journey takes about 8-9 hours, costing 280C. Departures are at 6:00, 9:00, 14:00, and 21:00. The Tuesday night bus at 9:00 p.m. is particularly useful as it arrives in Bluefields just in time for the Wednesday morning ferry. It is better to book your ticket in advance at the terminal or by calling 2253-2879.
Islas del Maíz (Corn Islands)
The Corn Islands are a true paradise, a perfect example of the typical Caribbean dream with their fantastic beaches, palm trees, and crystal-clear waters.
There are two islands: Big Corn and Little Corn. Big Corn is more touristy, featuring an airport, numerous resorts, and generally more developed infrastructure. Little Corn, on the other hand, is a favorite among travelers. Motor vehicles are banned here, and the only way to get around is by foot or bike. The atmosphere is extremely relaxed, and the beaches are nothing short of fantastic. I spent a week on the island and highly recommend it!
Little Corn.
What to Do and See on Little Corn
Honestly, there isn’t much to do except spend the days lounging on the beach. The only “must-see” event is the Sunday baseball game, which is very popular among the locals.
Otto Beach (Google Maps) is undoubtedly the most beautiful and where I spent most of my days. You can go on snorkeling trips for about 20$ and enjoy fresh lobster for just $5 a plate.
If you’re interested, you can also get your scuba certification on the island. The cost is about $300, which is reasonable, and individual dives are $35 each.
Note: The islands, being quite remote, are more expensive than the rest of Nicaragua, but it is still feasible to visit without spending a fortune. The only thing I strongly recommend is bringing enough cash, as there are no ATMs on Little Corn and only one on Big Corn.
Otto Beach.
Where to sleep in Little Corn?
With the group of guys I met in Bluefields while waiting for the ferry, we took a whole dorm at Three Brothers, $7 per person per night; but in case you are interested there are also many private rooms. The place is really nice and well-maintained, with a spacious and well-equipped kitchen. The couple who run it are really nice.
How to reach the Corn Islands?
As mentioned above, it is possible to fly from Managua to Big Corn at a cost of $180 round trip with La Costena. The cheapest way to get to the Corn Islands without flying is undoubtedly the Managua – Bluefields bus from where you then take the ferry that leaves every Wednesday at 9:00 am, weather permitting. I had to wait until Sunday because of rough seas. If you are short on time, the ferry is a risky choice, check the weather.
Anyway, the small ferry “Rio Escondido” leaves every Wednesday at 9:00 am and takes about 5-6 hours to get to Big Corn, cost 255 C. So about $32 total between bus and ferry round trip versus $180 for plane. Ps. On the ferry, don’t expect a luxurious trip, especially if the sea is not calm I suggest you take some pills for nausea.
Arriving in Big Corn, if you decide to continue to Little Corn, there are two boats per day leaving at 10:00 am and 4:30 pm directly from the dock where the ferry arrives, costing 155C, about 30 minutes.
N.b. The ferry returns to Bluefields on Thursdays at 9:00 a.m. so you would be “forced” to spend a week on the islands but there are also some cargo ships that pick up passengers-which I ended up doing, I recommend asking around locally as these ships do not have definite departures.
Léon
Léon is one of Nicaragua’s oldest cities, and after the country’s independence there was a long debate over which city, between Léon and Granada, should become its capital. The dispute ended up naming Managua in the middle.
Although Granada is better preserved, Léon is also a beautiful colonial town. All the streets surrounding the center are pretty and full of historic buildings.
Léon Cathedral.
What to do and see in Léon
Obviously you should spend at least half a day wandering the streets of downtown, but try to avoid the middle hours of the day because it gets really hot. I highly recommend going up to the roof of the cathedral which is the largest in all of Central America (Google Maps), it costs a couple of dollars but you get some great views of the city and the volcanoes that surround it.
Cerro Negro and volcanoboarding
This is undoubtedly the most popular activity to do in Léon and, as the word implies, it involves going down the slopes of a volcano while sitting on a board. The tour starts in the morning around 9 a.m. when the shuttle picks you up at the hostel, once you arrive at the base of the Cerro Negro volcano you are provided with a board, a dry suit, a mask and gloves to carry to the top of the volcano.
From the base to the top, it takes about a 45-minute walk. The recent eruption of 1999 is still clearly visible, creating a stark contrast with the lush green vegetation surrounding the volcano. Take in the view before descending down the side of the volcano.
The descent can take as short as 20 seconds or as long as 2 minutes, depending on how much you decide to break. It is undoubtedly one of the most fun things I did during my trip to Latin America! If the idea really scares you you can decide to walk down (some people do and honestly it sounds just as fun). The price for the tour varies between $20 and $25, some hostels include a free night if you book the tour through them, others offer two rides but basically they all do the exact same things, just pick the cheapest tour you can find.
The descent!
Telica Volcano
Telica is another volcano located not far from Léon, the nothing short of a giant and constantly smoking crater is also easily visible from the summit of Cerro Negro.
The tour to the crater is sold by local agencies as a two-day excursion during which you sleep in a tent and visit the crater at night so you can see the lava bubbling at the bottom, otherwise not visible during the day. The tour is sold for about $50 but the good news is that if you have camping gear you can easily do it on your own for a fraction of the price, or just visit it on a day trip as I did.
First of all I suggest you download organic maps as the trail often splits and the correct direction is not always obvious but with organic maps on your side you should have no problem. The trail is also on All Trails.
If you decide to visit the volcano during the day try to leave early in the morning, go to the Léon terminal and take the direct bus to San Jacinto, cost 12C, frequent departures. Get off at the trailhead (Google Maps). As mentioned, the trail is plotted on organic maps so you should have no problem. You might even encounter some tours and decide to simply follow it.
At a normal pace it should take you about three hours to get to the crater and two to get down, bring a packed lunch and at least a liter of water – it’s really hot and there’s no chance to buy anything along the way. Access to the crater costs $2, the hike is really nice and not too difficult, the scenery really impressive.
Telica volcano.
Las Peñitas and Poneloya
Las Peñitas (Google Maps) and Poneloya (Google Maps) are the two beaches about half an hour by bus (10 C) from Leon, or twenty minutes by shuttle offered by many hostels ($4). I have not personally been there but the beaches offer great conditions for surfing (not really my favorite activity), many just go there for the day but there are also a couple of hostels like Cabanas Rusticas and Mano a Mano Eco Hostal where you could spend a few days.
To conclude the section on what to do and see in Léon, Laguna Asososca (Google Maps) is another destination touted by local agencies. It is a water-filled crater surrounded by nature where you can swim. I didn’t go there because of time constraints but if you are interested it is possible to get there by bus by taking the direct bus to La Paz Centro, from where there are buses to Puerto Momotombo; tell the driver you want to go to the lagoon, from where you get off it is about a 45-minute walk, path marked on organic maps.
Where to sleep in Léon?
Poco a Poco Hostel without any doubt one of the best hostels in Nicaragua.
How to reach Léon?
From Managua I recommend the microbuses, which leave when full, from the UCA terminal, about 2 hours, and cost 61C. From Granada and any other destination south it is still worthwhile to go through the capital and take the minibus just mentioned. From Estelì and Matagalpa theoretically there are mini buses only in the morning, otherwise it is better to go through San Isidro.
Cerro Negro.
Estelí
Estelí is a town in northern Nicaragua slightly off the beaten path. The city, which is 844 m above sea level, is surrounded by mountains and has a pleasant climate throughout the year. The entire region is particularly famous for producing fine quality cigars.
What to do and see in Estelí
I visited the city only briefly, so the only activity I did was to walk the streets in search of its many murals. Here you can find a cool map.
That being said, you could go on a tour of a cigar factory that many hostels offer for about 10$ and organize an excursion to the Miraflor Reserve. I don’t have exact information about this but it would seem you can get there by the bus that connects Estelí to Yali.
The nearby Somoto canyon, which I will talk about shortly, is often visited from Estelí by tour (but it is also feasible to do it on your own), if you are not planning to continue your trip to Honduras I recommend using Estelí as your base and going to the canyon on a day trip without spending the night in Somoto.
Where to sleep in Estelí?
Luna international Hostel is a good hostel within walking distance of downtown, the included breakfast served in the cafe across the street is great.
How to reach Estelí?
From Managua, there are several daily connections to Estelí. The journey takes approximately 2.5 hours by express bus or 3.5 hours by regular bus.
From León, there are not that many buses to Estelí. It’s advisable to inquire at the terminal; alternatively, you can take a bus to San Isidro and then transfer more easily to Estelí from there.
Somoto
Somoto is a quiet town in northern Nicaragua, near the border with Honduras. Tourism is relatively new here, with the main attraction being the nearby canyon.
Somoto Canyon, reaching depths of up to 100 meters and in some places only a few meters wide, was “discovered” for tourism purposes in 2006.
How to visit the Somoto Canyon
Many people opt to take a guided tour to visit Somoto Canyon in a day from Estelí. The cost ranges from $20 to $30, depending on the length of the tour (which starts from various points along the river) and the chosen company. Here is a good company. The tour lasts the entire day, typically spanning 4-6 hours inside the canyon. Activities include walking, swimming, optional cliff jumping, or simply floating down the canyon following the current. It’s a lot of fun and, in my opinion, a fantastic way to spend the day. The tour usually includes transportation, a guide, and a life jacket, which is beneficial even for experienced swimmers who can drift with the current in some sections. The guide also provides a waterproof bag for storing personal belongings.
For those looking to save money while still relying on a guide, I recommend traveling to Somoto independently. Guides often offer their services at the bus station or at the Canyon entrance.
Many travelers also explore the canyon on their own by following these steps:
If departing from Estelí, catch the 7:30 a.m. bus to Somoto (costs 34C), where frequent departures to El Espino (10C) are available. If you are already in Somoto, simply take the aforementioned bus.
Before reaching El Espino, get off here and follow the trail to the river. Once at the river, just follow it to the canyon’s exit then get back to the road and take the first bus back to Somoto. This can be easily and safely done independently.
In certain sections, swimming might be required, so having a waterproof bag to safeguard your belongings is essential. It’s advisable to wear closed shoes or sandals instead of flip-flops. Keep in mind that the canyon may close in September and October due to heavy rains.
Boats are offered for the final stretch of the river before the exit, with a small cost involved, but continuing on foot or swimming is feasible. The fee for exiting the canyon and returning to the road is $2.
If you arrive during the day from Estelí, be aware that the last bus from Somoto typically leaves around 5 p.m.
Somoto Canyon.
Where to sleep in Somoto?
As mentioned earlier, unless you plan to travel onward to Honduras, I don’t think it’s necessary to stay overnight in Somoto. It’s more practical to visit the canyon during the day from Estelí. However, there are a few accommodations available in town and around the canyon. I found a hostel in town for $5, but I would not recommend it.
How to reach Somoto?
Direct buses to Somoto from Managua depart from the Mercado Mayoreo terminal (Google Maps) a few times daily. The journey takes approximately 4 hours and costs about $4. If you’re unable to catch a direct bus, you can take a bus to Estelí instead, where there are hourly departures to Somoto.
Crossing the border Nicaragua Honduras
From Somoto or Estelí, if you’re continuing your journey north, you have two options:
Direct route to El Salvador: If you want to head directly to El Salvador, you’ll need to cross the border at El Espino. There are frequent departures from Somoto to El Espino. From there, cross into Honduras during the day and likely stay overnight in San Miguel in El Salvador, just over the border. You can then continue your journey the next day. Detailed itinerary can be found on this page.
Route to Honduras: If you prefer to visit Honduras, you should cross the border at Las Manos. From Somoto or Estelí, take a bus to Ocotal, where there are frequent departures to Las Manos, a border town. Cross the border on foot and catch a bus to Paraiso. From Paraiso, there are direct buses to Tegucigalpa. From there, you can proceed to the ruins of Copan or La Ceiba, where you can take a ferry to the Bay Islands.
Note: I caught the 3:45 am bus to Ocotal from Somoto and by 6:15 am, I had already crossed the border, aiming to reach La Ceiba in time for the afternoon ferry to Utila. Despite being fortunate with bus connections, I arrived too late and had to spend the night in La Ceiba. It’s practically impossible to cover the Somoto/Estelí – Utila route in a single day using public transportation.
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Suggested travel itineraries to Nicaragua
Below I list two 2- and 3-week itineraries, of course take what follows as inspiration and modify the itinerary according to your interests/budget considering what you have read so far!
Two-week itinerary in Nicaragua
This itinerary does not include the Corn Islands. If you want to include them in your two-week itinerary in Nicaragua I suggest you fly and obviously skip one of the other destinations listed below. If you arrive at the airport in Managua during the day I strongly recommend that you transfer directly to Granada. From the airport take a taxi to the UCA terminal and then the microbus to Granada.
Granada (3 nights)
Day 1:
Arrival in Nicaragua. Transfer to Granada.
Day 2:
Explore the city, if you want you could take the tour to the Isletas, in the evening visit the Masaya volcano.
Day 3:
Day at laguna de Apoyo. If you wanted, you could spend the night here.
Ometepe (3 nights)
Day 4:
Transfer to Ometepe.
Day 5:
Explore the island by scooter, perhaps passing Ojo de Agua or San Ramon waterfall.
Day 6:
Concepcion Volcano.
Léon (4 nights)
Day 7:
Transfer to Léon.
Day 8:
Cerro Negro and volcano boarding.
Day 9:
Relaxing day in Léon, don’t miss the cathedral.
Day 10:
Telica volcano.
Estelí (3 nights)
Day 11:
Transfer to Estelí.
Day 12:
Somoto Canyon.
Day 13:
Visit the Miraflores reserva or join a cigar tour.
Day 14:
Return to Managua.
If you are the kind of person who likes to party or just surf, consider skipping Estelí and going from Ometepe to San Juan del Sur.
Three-week itinerary in Nicaragua
With three weeks to spare I strongly recommend that you visit the Corn Islands, but remember that the ferry is only on Wednesdays, so plan your itinerary accordingly.
How to get around Nicaragua
Buses in Nicaragua
Buses and minibuses are the predominant mode of travel within Nicaragua. Most buses are old yellow school buses, affectionately known as “chicken buses” among travelers. They can get quite crowded, and it’s common for luggage to be placed on the roof. Additionally, vendors often board to sell various items, particularly food, which adds to the cultural experience of the journey.
For longer distances, if possible, it’s advisable to opt for “express” buses. These buses stop only at designated locations and don’t pick up passengers randomly, ensuring a faster journey. They also provide assigned seating, eliminating the risk of having to stand.
In most cities, there is typically only one bus terminal, which simplifies navigation, except for Managua where there are multiple terminals serving different regions of the country. I highly recommend using public transportation, including chicken buses, as it is straightforward and very affordable. However, for those preferring more tourist-oriented services, there are numerous shuttles available that cater to major tourist destinations. These shuttles offer door-to-door service and can be booked through hostels/hotels. While more expensive than public buses, they are faster and more convenient.
At this site you will find public transportation schedules and routes, a really useful resource, save it as a favorite!
Chicken bus!
Taxis in Nicaragua
Taxis are a common way to get around within cities but also to cover longer distances as they are extremely cheap, especially when shared.
Beware of the many illegal cabs, especially in Managua: they may not be safe, especially for tourists. In any case, negotiate the fare before boarding to avoid unnecessary arguments.
Domestic Flights in Nicaragua
Costeña is the only airline to offer flights within the country although in my opinion the only destinations for which it may make sense to take a plane are the Corn Islands or the Atlantic coast in general.
Hitchhiking in Nicaragua
Hitchhiking is really common especially in rural areas and small towns, to be avoided in Managua.
Backpacking Nicaragua: costs
In short, how much does a trip to Nicaragua cost? For budget travelers, getting away with about 30€ per day is very doable. That being said, you could also spend a lot more especially if you like to party and take shuttle buses instead of public transport.
Cost of accommodation in Nicaragua
Hostels and lodging in general are really cheap, with dorms normally costing about $10, sometimes I even paid less, and often include breakfast. “Hospedajes” which are small, family-run hotels are another extremely cheap option with private rooms that are often cheaper than a hostel bed.
Cost of food in Nicaragua
The food is generally not fantastic but undoubtedly cheap. A typical dish at a local comedor-which almost always consists of gallo pinto (rice and beans) plus a piece of meat (usually chicken) with a small side dish (often fried plantain)-costs on average 90C.
Street food is even cheaper, quesillos for example, sort of flatbread stuffed with cheese and pickled vegetables are a must try and cost even less than 15 C depending on location and size.
Gallo pinto, eggs and tortillas. Typical breakfast.
Cost of transportation in Nicaragua
Public transportation is extremely cheap, in my opinion the cheapest in all of Central America with buses costing an average of $1 per hour of travel time. As for tourist shuttles, while cheap by European standards, expect to pay up to 10 times more than public transportation.
Backpacking Nicaragua: safety
Is Nicaragua safe? When I visited the country, Nicaragua was undoubtedly a safe place, where-with a bit of common sense-you would not have any kind of problem, with the possible exception of the capital city of Managua.
Unfortunately, Nicaragua has gone through some major political crisis and safety concerns since then but seems to be doing much better now. I will try to keep this article updated if there is any news.
Are you planning a trip to Nicaragua? Check out these posts:
Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!
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