Nepal Travel Guide

This small, landlocked country located between Tibet and India contains no fewer than eight of the world’s ten highest peaks (including, of course, Mount Everest), the city of Lumbini, birthplace of Gautama Buddha, the founder of Buddhism, and, finally, a truly remarkable cultural heritage.

I spent nearly two months backpacking in Nepal, completing several treks and visiting the main tourist attractions. Whether it’s a mountain-focused trip or a cultural one, in this guide you’ll find all the tips and information you need to organize it as best you can, as always with an eye on the budget.

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Monkey Temple, Kathmandu.

When to visit Nepal

Much of Nepal enjoys a temperate climate year-round, with four distinct seasons. Many consider autumn (September, October, and November) the best time to visit (especially those who want to go trekking): after the monsoons that characterize the summer and clear away pollution and dust, mountain visibility is optimal, and so are the temperatures, which aren’t too high at low altitude or too low up high. On top of that, two of the country’s most important festivals, Dasain and Tihar, take place right in this period.

As you’ve probably guessed, autumn is by far the most expensive and crowded time (especially October), with accommodations at high altitude along the main treks constantly sold out.

In any case, Nepal can easily be visited year-round, as long as the activities and destinations on your trip suit the season. Here’s an overview of the other seasons.

Winter (December, January, and February): the weather tends to be sunny and stable. It’s a great time to visit the whole Terai, the region in the south of the country at the foot of the Himalayan giants, and the Kathmandu Valley, where the fairly low average altitude means there’s no snowfall, and although mornings can be really chilly, the rest of the day offers pleasant temperatures.

In this period low-altitude trekking is possible and, with the right gear and barring heavy snowfall, it’s technically possible to go up high and complete some of the most popular treks like the Everest Base Camp trek and the Annapurna Circuit, but it’s certainly not the ideal time to do it.

Spring (March, April, and May): this is the second most popular season to visit the country. Temperatures and visibility for trekking are good, but humidity often builds up in the afternoon and the peaks get covered by clouds.

Either way, the advantage of less crowded trails combined with the blooming of many plants and flowers (rhododendrons above all) makes spring a great time to visit the country, especially for those who want to trek and avoid the peak autumn season.

Summer (June, July, and August): in Nepal this is monsoon season, which typically arrives in the first weeks of June and can last until September. It’s definitely an interesting time to visit the country, with nature literally coming to life, the air is clean and butterflies are everywhere. Trekking, however, is widely advised against, except in some areas known as “rain shadow”. Here rainfall is considerably lower than in the rest of the country, the best example being the northern part of the Annapurna Circuit (Manang, Upper Pisang, Muktinath), where rainfall is decidedly lower. In any case, especially at low altitude, the risk of roads blocked by landslides and the presence of leeches are definitely things to take into account.

Pashupatinath Temple, Kathmandu.

Documents and vaccinations to enter Nepal

Let’s start with the visa to enter the country. A visa is mandatory but fortunately holders of an Italian passport (valid for more than 6 months) receive a visa called Visa On Arrival (VOA) the moment they enter the country (the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours). The process is extremely simple and straightforward but unfortunately it isn’t free.

There are three options:

15 days – 30 USD.

30 days – 50 USD.

90 days – 125 USD.

The visa can easily be extended to a maximum of 150 days per calendar year (January 1-December 31), although it isn’t exactly cheap. You can find the costs here; it’s probably better to leave and re-enter with a new visa. In any case, with a tourist visa you can’t stay in the country for more than 150 days per calendar year.

Two passport-size photos are also officially required to complete the visa process once you arrive at the airport/land border. However, if you complete the form online (it stays in the system for 15 days, so don’t do it too far in advance) they aren’t required and you’ll most likely save quite a bit of time upon arrival, especially at the Kathmandu airport where you can head straight to immigration without standing there filling out the form. I recommend doing it.

The visa at Tribhuvan airport can theoretically be paid by credit card, but in practice, from what I’ve read, it varies from day to day! I tried and was told it wasn’t possible. All major currencies (including euros) are accepted. To avoid unfavorable exchange rates, ideally, you should pay in U.S. dollars, but I wouldn’t dwell on it too much unless you already have them.

As for land borders (find the full list here) apparently only U.S. dollars are accepted, so adjust accordingly.

Nepal doesn’t require any mandatory vaccinations, but Hepatitis A and B are recommended.

For up-to-date information on visas and so on, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).

On the streets of Kathmandu.

What to do and see in Nepal

In this guide, prices are expressed in the local currency called “Nepalese Rupee” often abbreviated simply as “NPR.” The exchange rate is about 1€ = 170 NPR. For the current exchange rate, I suggest you look at this page.

Kathmandu

Kathmandu is the largest city and the country’s capital; the only international airport is also located here, making it the starting point for most people visiting Nepal. Here you’ll find a short video of the days I spent in Kathmandu (in Italian, but you can turn on the subtitles).

What to do and see in Kathmandu

The city and its surroundings can easily keep you busy for days with squares, temples, and historic neighborhoods. You’re spoiled for choice, and of course simply walking the streets of Thamel, the city’s tourist district, has its appeal too, especially if you’re looking for a few souvenirs to take home. Here are the main tourist sites in and around Kathmandu.

Kathmandu Durbar Square

This is undoubtedly the most iconic square in Kathmandu (Google Maps) and, more generally, in Nepal. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site that contains numerous temples and palaces. Unfortunately, like most historical sites in the city, the buildings suffered serious damage during the 2015 earthquake and are still being rebuilt, but they’re definitely worth a visit.

The square can easily be reached on foot from Thamel, and honestly I recommend it: the streets you pass through are teeming with life. I recommend visiting early in the morning, when the square literally comes alive and lots of locals crowd the various temples and bring their offerings.

Entrance for foreigners is really expensive: we’re talking 1,000 NPR. However, getting in by blending in with the crowd or through some side alley isn’t difficult at all.

Kathmandu Durbar Square.

Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple)

This temple, located atop a hill overlooking Kathmandu (Google Maps), offers excellent views of the city and the entire valley. The main stupa with the Buddha’s eyes and golden spiral stretching skyward is truly fascinating as are all the small temples surrounding it.

The entire area is literally infested with monkeys (not surprisingly, the temple has been nicknamed “Monkey Temple”) which makes it even more interesting especially for those who have never dealt with these cute creatures.

Don’t forget to also visit the lower part of the complex facing west. I was told that admission cost 200 NPR, but since I probably entered through a back staircase, I unintentionally avoided paying.

To get to the site you could easily walk from Thamel, as it’s only 3 km through decidedly non-touristy neighborhoods, or take one of the many minibuses that run along this road north of Thamel; the destination you’ll hear shouted, or that you need to ask for, is “Swayambhu”, and it costs only 15 NPR.

Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple).

Pashupatinath Temple

More than a temple, it’s a complex of Hindu temples (Google Maps). The main one, dedicated to Shiva, is the largest in the country and one of the holiest. Access to this temple is restricted to Hindus only, but the rest of the complex is accessible to anyone.

Admission again is quite expensive, 1,000 NPR, but once you get to the main entrance just take a right and cross the river to explore the complex for free.

To reach the site from Thamel I simply walked, as it’s only 4 km, but if you prefer to use public transportation you can board the blue line at this point near Ratna Park, 20 rupees. Of course, a taxi is always an option.

Pashupatinath temple complex.

Boudhanath Stupa

It’s one of the largest in the world and it’s indeed a really impressive site. The stupa is located within a truly stunning circular plaza and is without a doubt one of my favorite sites in Kathmandu (Google Maps).

I recommend combining the visit with the nearby Pashupatinath Temple, which is less than a 2km walk away. Again, if you wish, you can avoid paying the NPR 400 entrance fee by entering through one of the many secondary entrances to the square.

To return toward Thamel simply board one of the blue buses that run along the road opposite the main entrance to the stupa and drop you off near Ratna Park for 25 rupees.

Boudhanath Stupa.

Patan Durbar Square

Patan is technically the oldest city in the entire Kathmandu Valley; today, being only 5 km from the center of the capital, it’s for all intents and purposes part of the Kathmandu metropolitan area, and distinguishing it from the rest of the city is almost impossible.

Patan retains refined architecture made up of numerous historic buildings culminating in one of the most beautiful squares in the entire region, Patan Durbar Square (Google Maps). The square is a really pleasant place to hang out and it’s very busy, especially in the late afternoon when locals use it as a meeting point.

Again, entry is quite expensive at 1,000 NPR but if you wish you can enter through one of the secondary entrances and avoid paying.

To get to Patan from Thamel, I recommend taking a minibus to “Lagankhel” at this point, the cost is 15-20 rupees, I recommend getting off at this stop and walking to the square which is only 1km from here.

Patan Durbar Square.

Kirtipur

Kirtipur is definitely a far less popular destination than those mentioned so far, so much so that during my afternoon spent walking the streets of Kirtipur I didn’t meet any other tourists.

The city is only 5 km from downtown Kathmandu; the old part is perched atop a hill where traffic is virtually absent and limited to a few scooters, and all the sites of interest are free. It’s a great way to get to know ancient Nepal, away from mass tourism but a stone’s throw from the capital.

Half a day is more than enough time to explore the city: the main sites of interest are the Tri Ratna temple, Dev Pukko (center of the city with the queen’s palace attached), the Bagh Bhairab temple, and finally the Uma Maheshwor temple. Walking and getting lost in the streets of the ancient city is in itself really interesting and a great way to spend a couple of hours.

Finally, before returning to Kathmandu I strongly recommend eating at the Newa Lehana restaurant: they serve excellent traditional food here, and the quality is really great, so much so that many locals visit Kirtipur just to eat here.

Reaching Kirtipur is really easy: buses frequently leave from Ratna Bus Park and take about 25 minutes to reach Naya Bazaar at the base of the ancient city, 20 rupees.

Uma Maheshwor Temple.

Bhaktapur

Bhaktapur city is about 12 km from Kathmandu. Bhaktapur is known by many names: culture city, living heritage, open-air museum, etc. etc. Bhaktapur was in fact the capital of the Kathmandu Valley until the 15th century and preserves many historic buildings and monuments. Unfortunately, many of these structures were severely damaged during the 2015 earthquake but the city still retains its charm.

The most important site is definitely the famous Bhaktapur Durbar Square (Google Maps) where the palace that housed the royal family until 1769 is located and is now the home of the National Art Gallery. Other notable sites in Bhaktapur are Taumadhi Square and Dattatreya Temple.

Reaching Bhaktapur from Kathmandu is really easy, as there are buses that frequently leave from Bhaktapur Bus Park, 30 rupees.

Bhaktapur Durbar Square.

Namo Buddha

Namo Buddha is a small village that houses the Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery (Google Maps), which is one of the most important pilgrimage sites for Buddhists in all of Nepal and one of the holiest in the world. Legend has it that this is the place where Buddha, in a previous life as a prince, fed his body to a tiger and her cubs.

Reaching the village from Kathmandu is relatively easy. You can take a local bus from Ratna Park Bus to Banepa (2-3 hours) and here change for one bound for Namo Buddha.

Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery.

Where to sleep in Kathmandu?

I spent two weeks in Kathmandu, trying out several accommodations, first with Dad and then on my own while waiting for my visa to India. Here are my recommendations.

Gurung’s Home – Rock-bottom prices for both dorm and private rooms.

The Sparkling Turtle Backpackers Hostel – Great hostel at a very good price with really nice staff. The only downside is the location, as it’s about 3 km from the center of Thamel near the Monkey Temple; otherwise, it’s highly recommended.

Andes House – Clean and inexpensive private rooms right in the center of Thamel.

Patan Durbar Square.

Pokhara

Pokhara is the second largest city after Kathmandu and the ideal starting point for most treks in the Annapurna region.

Overlooking Lake Phewa, it definitely has a much more relaxed and less chaotic atmosphere than the capital city. For those looking for sites of historical/cultural interest it probably leaves a little to be desired but if nature is what you’re looking for, you definitely won’t be disappointed.

What to do and see in Pokhara

Most people visit the city briefly before or after one of the many treks the region offers. If you have a few days to spare, here are some sites you might visit in and around Pokhara.

Lake Phewa

Lake Phewa, which the city overlooks, is a great place to spend a few hours simply walking along its shores or perhaps renting a rowboat with or without a rower.

In the middle of the lake there’s even a small island that houses one of the city’s most famous Hindu temples (Google Maps).

Lake Phewa.

Sarangkot Viewpoint

This is probably the most spectacular viewpoint in the entire city. Sunrise is undoubtedly the ideal time to visit this place and see the sun rise over the Annapurna massif.

Try to arrive at least 20 minutes before sunrise; from Pokhara it’s about 40 minutes by taxi along a road not exactly in great condition, and the taxi costs 2,000 rupees (Google Maps).

International Mountain Museum

Interesting museum about Nepal’s mountains, local communities, climbers, flora and fauna of the region (Google Maps). It also covers historic expeditions and the impact of global warming on the mountains. In short, it’s a place any mountain lover is sure to find interesting.

Admission costs 500 rupees; the museum can be reached on foot in about 45 minutes from Lakeside, and a taxi costs about 300 NPR.

The World Peace Pagoda

Also known as Pokhara Shanti Stupa (Google Maps), this is a Buddhist pagoda overlooking the city and the lake from the top of Anadu Hill. There are several ways to reach it: since it’s just over 5 km from Lakeside (where virtually all the hotels are located), you can easily walk, and the route is well marked on Organic Maps.

The alternatives are a short boat crossing of the lake (700 rupees one way, 1,000 round trip) and then walking for about 45 minutes, or taking a taxi to the pagoda and walking the last stretch.

World Peace Pagoda.

Mahendra Gupha and Chameri Gufa

They’re two not exactly spectacular caves that are about a 10-minute walk from each other, the first houses a small temple inside (Google Maps) and there are some interesting rock formations while the second is basically full of bats (Google Maps).

Devis Falls

A small waterfall just a stone’s throw from town, but it certainly won’t keep you busy for hours; entry costs 100 rupees (Google Maps).

Other activities that can be arranged in Pokhara are paragliding flights, the cost in tandem is about $50, rafting, bungee jumping, ziplining and yoga retreats.

Where to sleep in Pokhara?

HOTEL FORESTWAY Hostel & Backpackers – Great budget hostel 50 meters from the lake that also offers private rooms.

Hotel Santana – If you’re exclusively looking for an affordable private room to sleep in before or after your trek, look no further.

How to reach Pokhara?

From Kathmandu to Pokhara, tourist buses leave every morning at 7:00 a.m. from this point north of Thamel and reach the Tourist Bus Park in Pokhara in about 6-7 hours, costing from 600/700 NPR for standard buses, to nearly 3,000 NPR for luxury buses. Local microbuses cost 400/600 NPR but the journey can be really uncomfortable. If you want, you can also take a night bus, but given the nature of the road it’s probably not the best idea. There are also numerous daily flights, about 40 minutes, about 100$ one way.

If you’re coming from India, there are daily buses from the border town of Sunauli to Pokhara for 600 NPR, about 8 hours.

Talbarahi Temple.

Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.

Lumbini

Lumbini is the birthplace of the Buddha and a pilgrimage destination for anyone interested in the world of Buddhism.

There are loads of temples, built by numerous countries, and they’re all concentrated within a confined area that can easily be visited within a day, perhaps on a rented bicycle (Google Maps).

Where to sleep in Lumbini?

Lumbini Garden Lodge – modest private rooms at honest prices; if you’re looking for something luxurious, take a look at Hotel Buddha Maya Garden.

How to reach Lumbini?

There are daily buses from Pokhara and Kathmandu, but it’s also possible to reach Lumbini from Varanasi as the town is only a few kilometers from the Sunauli border with India. Once across the border, reach Bhairahawa in a shared jeep and then board a bus bound for Lumbini.

Maya Devi temple.

Bandipur

Bandipur is a still little-known destination. It’s a small village in the hills of Nepal that offers a quiet place ideal for those who want to spend a few days relaxing or taking short walks.

The main attraction is probably the Tundikhel, a viewpoint that on a clear day allows you to see snow-capped peaks in the distance. There are, however, other short hikes such as the one leading to the summit of Gurunche Dada (Google Maps).

Where to sleep in Bandipur?

Samira Homestay and Kayastha Lodge are both great, really cheap options. If you’re looking for something more luxurious, take a look at Bandipur Kaushi and Bandipur Chhen, both look great.

How to reach Bandipur?

From Pokhara or Kathmandu take any bus to Dumbre Bazaar or in most cases a bus that goes through Dumbre Bazaar, from here there are shared jeeps that leave relatively frequently to Bandipur.

Tundikhel.

Chitwan National Park

Chitwan National Park is home to numerous animals, including rhinos, elephants, tigers, crocodiles, and numerous bird species. The park covers a flat, wet, and lush area, especially during the monsoon season.

The two towns that serve as the gateways and bases for exploring the park are Sauraha and Meghauli. From these towns, you can easily arrange tours and safaris to suit all tastes and budgets. While you can arrange tours from Kathmandu or Pokhara, or even online, you’ll definitely get the best prices locally.

For any activity inside the park, you need to pay the 1,700 NPR entrance fee, and there’s no way to enter the park without a guide/organized tour.

I haven’t personally visited the park, so I suggest you read this guide.

How to reach Chitwan National Park?

Whether you decide to visit the park from Sauraha or Meghauli, you must pass through the town of Narayangarh, which has frequent buses to both destinations. Narayangarh also has an airport with flights to and from Pokhara and Kathmandu.

There are also direct buses from Kathmandu to Meghauli that depart every morning from Kalanki Bus Park. Generally, tourist buses departing from Kathmandu and Pokhara with the destination “Chitwan National Park” go to Sauraha. However, they stop at a station about 7 km from the town, and from there you’ll most likely have to take a taxi.

Rhinos in Chitwan National Park.

Trekking in Nepal

N.B. Unfortunately, starting from 1 April 2023 it will no longer be possible to complete many treks in Nepal without being accompanied by a guide. I think it’s a real disgrace, yet another decision driven by greed hiding behind “safety concerns”. I hope the Nepalese government will reconsider the decision in the future, but for now this is the reality. Fortunately, from what I understand, the problem arises when you want to get the TIMS (Trekker’s Information Management System), which however isn’t needed to complete the Everest Base Camp trek, so it seems the Everest region has been spared for the moment, as you can read here: https://explorersweb.com/solo-trekking-banned-nepal/. That said, I think it’s better to wait for some first-hand accounts before leaving with the idea that a guide isn’t necessary. For all the treks that require the TIMS, it’s certainly the end of independent trekking.

For many, a trip to Nepal is synonymous with trekking, and during my two months in the country trekking took up most of my time. By far the two most popular and easily accessible regions for completing multi-day treks are undoubtedly the Annapurna region and the Khumbu region, where Everest is located.

I’ve written two detailed guides for the two regions, which include several treks and possible variants.

Trekking in the Annapurna Region: on this page you’ll find detailed descriptions of the Annapurna Circuit, the Poon Hill trek and the Annapurna Base Camp trek.

N.B. To trek in the Annapurna region you need to apply for permits (everything is explained in detail at the link above); among the various details (passport number, itineraries, etc. etc.) you’ll also be asked for your travel insurance number. If you plan to complete either the circuit or the base camp trek, I strongly recommend getting a World Nomads policy, the only policy I know of that offers (among the extra activities) insurance coverage up to 6,000 meters of altitude.

On this page I explain how to select this coverage, and if you’re not convinced, take a look at my article on travel insurance.

Trekking in the Khumbu (Everest) region: on this page you’ll find detailed descriptions of the classic route to Everest Base Camp, possible variants, and finally the Three Passes Trek.

Dad and I at Thorong Pass, Annapurna circuit.

Other treks to more remote regions that are likely to require the support of local guides/agencies and in some cases having to camp a few nights are:

Manaslu: This approximately 14-day trek circumnavigates the eighth highest peak in the world (8,156 m). In terms of difficulty, it’s comparable to the Annapurna Circuit and Everest Base Camp, and it’s only completed by about 2,000 people each year for two main reasons: first, before 2010 it was necessary to camp for at least one night, and even now the lodges are very basic compared to those on other routes; second, the region still requires a special permit that essentially requires the presence of two or more guides. It goes without saying that for those looking for a DIY experience the costs go up. On the other hand, the route is significantly less crowded and more authentic than the Annapurna and Everest treks. You can find a guide here.

Kanchenjunga: The trek to Kanchenjunga Base Camp (third highest mountain in the world) takes about ten days and is located in a remote area in eastern Nepal accessible by plane from Kathmandu in about 40 minutes or at the end of a 40-hour bus ride. Again, this is a protected area accessible only with the help of a guide/organized tour. You can find a guide here.

Upper Mustang: The region was officially opened to foreign trekkers only about 15 years ago, and access is still highly restricted: you have to be accompanied by a guide. Until 1950 the region was even independent from the rest of Nepal. Being in the so-called “rain shadow”, the area is suitable for trekking even during the monsoon period.

Other restricted-access areas are Dolpo, Mugu and Jumla. Of course there are dozens of other treks, longer or shorter and more or less popular, but the ones I’ve just mentioned are broadly the main ones.

Everest Base Camp.

Suggested itineraries in Nepal

Recommending an itinerary for Nepal is really difficult as many people visit the country exclusively for trekking without devoting time to other destinations, so I’ll just suggest a short itinerary in case you’re not interested in any trekking, and then share a few thoughts in case you have more time and are interested in one of the more popular treks.

Nepal 10-day itinerary

Ten days isn’t a lot, but it’s definitely possible to properly visit Kathmandu and its surroundings plus a few other destinations. Depending on your interests, you could add one of the shorter treks like Ghorepani – Poon Hill or Annapurna Base Camp.

If you decide to do a multi-day trek, with so little time available I recommend doing it at the start of your trip to avoid possible setbacks. If instead you decide not to do any trekking, here’s how you could divide your days.

Kathmandu (3 nights)

Day 1:

Recover from jet lag and briefly explore Thamel.

Day 2:

In the morning visit Pashupatinath Temple and the nearby Boudhanath Stupa. In the afternoon go up to the Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple). Finally head to Kathmandu Durbar Square for sunset when the square gets crowded with people.

Day 3:

I recommend spending the day between Patan and Bhaktapur.

Chitwan (2 nights)

Day 4:

Kathmandu – Chitwan bus in the morning. Arrange activities for the next day or even the same day.

Day 5:

Chitwan Park.

Pokhara (3 nights)

Day 6:

Chitwan – Pokhara bus.

Day 7 – 8:

Explore Pokhara and its surroundings.

Kathmandu (2 nights)

Day 9:

Pokhara – Kathmandu bus.

Day 10:

Return home.

Nepal 15-day itinerary

With two weeks available, long treks like the Annapurna Circuit and Everest Base Camp are doable, but time is really tight and you’ll have to make some compromises. For Everest Base Camp the flight to Lukla is a must and there still isn’t much margin, while for the Annapurna Circuit I recommend starting at the very least from Jagat and ending your trek in Muktinath.

In my opinion, better options for this time frame are shorter treks like Ghorepani – Poon Hill or Annapurna Base Camp, and then dedicating the remaining days to some other destination or simply roughly following the 10-day itinerary.

Nepal 3-week itinerary

With three weeks you have enough time to consider one of the longer treks like the Annapurna Circuit (roughly 10 – 20 days depending on the chosen itinerary) or Everest Base Camp (roughly 12 – 20 days depending on the chosen itinerary). You’ll also have a few extra days in case something doesn’t go according to plan, or you can explore some other destination within the country.

In any case, my advice is to prioritize the trek, which, because of bad weather or various setbacks, can take a few days longer than expected, and only then dedicate the remaining days to some other destination.

Sunrise at Chukhung Ri.

How to get around Nepal

Despite the country’s small size, every journey overland takes much longer than you’d think, so absolutely don’t be fooled by the number of kilometers. The road that connects Kathmandu and Pokhara, the country’s two main cities, is only 200 km long, but between stops, traffic and terrain that isn’t exactly ideal for overland transport, it takes no less than 6/7 hours by bus.

Buses in Nepal

Buses in Nepal can be divided into three categories:

Microbuses: particularly popular especially for urban routes, they’re basically minivans with 10-12 seats that can easily carry up to 20 people if needed. They’re a quick and efficient way to get around but especially during rush hours they can be really full and not exactly comfortable.

Local Buses: the system isn’t exactly well organized and it’s often hard to figure out where they leave from, but with a bit of research they’re a really cheap way to get around, slower than Microbuses and Tourist Buses. In fact, local buses stop literally everywhere to let people on and off, which wastes a lot of time. It’s also common practice to fill the bus to the brim, including the aisle.

Tourist Buses: as the name suggests, these are the buses dedicated to tourists or more generally to those who can afford to spend a little extra. Don’t expect anything luxurious but at least the seat is assigned, there are no standing passengers, and except for a few predetermined stops to eat or go to the bathroom the trip usually runs fairly smoothly. However, this type of bus basically serves four destinations: Kathmandu, Chitwan, Lumbini, and Pokhara.

Jeeps: for many destinations there are jeeps that act as buses. Often they connect remote destinations where road conditions are poor, but in some cases they run along the same routes covered by buses, offering faster though not exactly more comfortable service. It’s actually standard practice to put one person next to the driver and then two rows of 4 people instead of 3 (there’s a row of seats instead of a trunk), which can be really uncomfortable for long routes.

Our bus in the mountains of Nepal.

Taxis in Nepal

Taxis are really cheap by European standards and generally a great way to get around over short and medium distances for those whose budget isn’t exactly tight and who want a bit more comfort. Remember to agree on the price before getting in; haggling is absolutely advisable.

A taxi from the international airport to downtown Thamel officially costs 700 NPR but by bargaining you can get it down to 500/600 NPR. It’s about 8 km and, depending on the time of day, 20/30 minutes.

Domestic flights in Nepal

There are a couple of companies that offer domestic flights between the country’s major cities but also to remote destinations. These are often small twin-engine planes in less than excellent condition, and the prices aren’t exactly budget-friendly. In many cases, however, they save literally dozens of hours over road transportation, so if your budget allows it, they can be a great option.

It should also be kept in mind that many flights are often canceled due to weather conditions especially to high mountain destinations where the weather can be unstable even during the warm season so always leave yourself a few days of leeway.

Major airlines are: Yeti Air and Buddha Air.

Backpacking Nepal: costs

How much does a trip to Nepal cost? Little, very little: for independent trips of 2-3 weeks, if you travel on a budget, the cost of your flight and travel insurance will likely exceed what you spend once you’ve arrived. Here’s an overview of the costs.

N.B. If you’re planning to trek, keep in mind that the higher you climb, the higher the prices, in some cases up to 7 or 8 times what you’d pay at the bottom of the valley.

Cost of Food in Nepal

The food is extremely cheap: the national dish called “Dal Bhat” usually consists of rice, boiled vegetables and lentil soup, but sometimes it can be much more elaborate and be served with meat, yogurt, roti (bread), etc. etc.

A dish like this in a local restaurant can cost as little as 100 NPR and more often than not includes a second helping. Even in not-exactly-cheap restaurants or in the touristy areas of the country, it’s hard to spend more than 500 NPR on a single dish.

A plate of momos (similar to ravioli).

Cost of transportation in Nepal

Getting around the city by local bus is unlikely to cost more than 15-25 rupees, while taxis cost roughly 50-100 rupees per kilometer, but for long routes the price drops considerably. A tourist bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara or Chitwan costs about 700 – 2,000 NPR depending on the service chosen. Domestic flights are fairly expensive: 30/40-minute flights cost about $100.

To sum up, a daily budget of 15-20€ in Nepal should be more than enough for most people. If you want some tips on how to save money while traveling, take a look at this article.

Cost of accommodation in Nepal

A dorm bed in a good hostel ranges from 400 to 600 NPR.

A private room in a guesthouse or hostel from 800 to 1,000 NPR.

A good hotel room from 1,000 to 2,000 NPR.

Lodges/tea houses along the treks often give you the room for free as long as you eat your meals there; otherwise the room usually costs from 100 to 500 NPR depending on the altitude.

Typical mountain lodge.

To reduce exchange and withdrawal fees, see my guide to the best travel cards.

Backpacking Nepal: safety

Nepal is generally a really safe country, even for solo travelers; the only real precautions need to be taken in the mountains, especially at high altitudes, where altitude sickness can have serious consequences.

Here are four useful tips to avoid altitude sickness:

The most important rule of all is to avoid overdoing it. Climb at a steady pace. Ideally, climb slower than you feel you could sustain.
Don’t underestimate the symptoms. If you experience a slight headache before bedtime and feel fine the next day, there’s no problem. But if the symptoms persist, avoid gaining more altitude. Often, a day of acclimatization/rest is more than enough to then continue. In some cases, it’s advisable to descend a few hundred meters and, once you feel better, resume the ascent. Basically, never continue climbing if you feel sick.
Above 3,000 meters, it’s recommended to never sleep more than 500 meters higher than the previous night. To be honest, we often went beyond this recommendation without any problems, but in any case I’d limit myself to 700/800 meters at most.
Drink lots of water. Staying hydrated is essential.

There are also some medications, such as Diamox (acetazolamide), that help prevent altitude sickness, but honestly I have no experience with them and I’m not a huge fan of medications. In my opinion, it’s better to listen to your body instead of relying on medicines: take your time acclimatizing and, if your symptoms get worse, go down to a lower altitude. Keep in mind, though, that Diamox is a prescription drug that some trekkers take as a preventive measure, so if you’re thinking about using it, talk to your doctor before you leave.

For the rest, with a bit of common sense you shouldn’t have any safety-related problems, but especially in Kathmandu some “scams” are fairly common: avoid the “holy men” who offer to bless you and then pester you for money in return, or the mothers who come up to you saying they don’t want money but then take you to buy food, which they return as soon as you turn the corner to get cash. In general, in the capital be wary of anyone who approaches you with suspicious offers or requests.

In any case, I suggest you take a look at my tips for traveling safely anywhere in the world.

Finally, especially if you plan to trek above 3,500 meters, the only three insurance companies that cover this activity (as far as I know) are World Nomads, which lets you insure treks up to 6,000 meters by adding it as an extra activity, TrueTraveller, which offers coverage for treks above 4,600m if you add the “Extreme Pack”, and finally SafetyWing, which covers treks up to 6,000 meters if you add the “Adventure Sports” pack. As I said before, most other insurance companies stop at 3,500 meters, some even lower.

N.B. In light of fraudulent practices by some local tour operators, if you really need a helicopter evacuation, it’s important to try to contact your insurance company to arrange everything, so as to avoid disputes.

Are you planning a trip to Nepal? Check out these posts:

Which travel backpack to choose

What to bring on your trip

Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!

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