Myanmar Travel Guide

Myanmar, also known as Burma, has avoided mass tourism for years and is now slowly gaining popularity for many good reasons. Fortunately, it still retains a great deal of authenticity!

With its temples, spectacular scenery, and an extremely friendly population that will overwhelm you with smiles, Myanmar has become one of the countries that has stayed closest to my heart.

I spent four weeks backpacking from south to north. In this guide, you’ll find information and tips on how to best plan your trip, always with an eye on your budget.

Quick menu

• When to visit Myanmar
• Documents and vaccinations to enter Myanmar
• What to do and see in Myanmar
• Suggested itineraries in Myanmar
• How to get around Myanmar
• Backpacking Myanmar: costs
• Backpacking Myanmar: safety

Inle Lake.

When to visit Myanmar

Myanmar has a tropical climate with monsoons that bring rain typically from May/June to October. During this period, roads can be in poor condition, making overland travel difficult. However, the north-central part of the country receives only a fraction of the rainfall compared to the south, so the situation is not as extreme.

The dry season runs from November to May and is generally the best time to visit the country. Temperatures are pleasant, and rainfall is absent. The months from November to March are especially recommended, as April and May, just before the rains, can be really hot and humid, with temperatures sometimes exceeding 40 degrees Celsius, especially in the central regions around Mandalay and Bagan. Unfortunately, August, when many people take their well-deserved vacations, is often the rainiest month of the year.

If you are a perfectionist, the absolute best time to visit Myanmar is just after the rains, roughly from late October to late December. During this period, the weather is ideal, the landscape is still green, and not as dry as in the following months. However, this period, coinciding with the Christmas holidays, corresponds to the high season with prices increasing accordingly.

Bagan.

Documents and vaccinations to enter Myanmar

Most passport holders can easily apply for an electronic visa (eVisa), provided their passport has an expiration date of more than six months. This visa is issued within a maximum of three working days and must be used within 90 days from the date of issue. With this type of visa, you can stay in the country for up to 28 days. The visa costs $50, and this is the official website where you can apply. If needed, you can pay an extra $6 to receive the visa in just one business day.

Once you receive your visa via email, you must enter through one of the eight designated borders. If you wish to enter the country through any other border, you must obtain a visa through an embassy or consulate. The full list of borders where the eVisa is accepted includes international airports and some land borders with Thailand and India. The most popular land border with reliable connections is Myawaddy, which is about a 7-hour bus ride from Bangkok. Once you enter the country, you can exit through any other border.

Although it is impossible to renew the visa, it is possible to stay beyond 28 days without incurring too many problems. You will need to pay $3 plus an additional $3 per day for each extra day beyond 28 days and $5 per day beyond 90 days. The “fine” must be paid in cash, and only U.S. dollars are accepted. Be aware that once your visa expires, you may have difficulty getting around and finding accommodation as you often need to show proof of a valid visa.

Myanmar does not require any mandatory vaccinations, but Hepatitis A and B vaccinations are recommended.

N.b. Several times throughout the guide you will find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the Alltrails app you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.

Yangon

Yangon, formally known as Rangoon was the capital of Myanmar until 2005 when it was moved to Naypyidaw, to this day, however, it remains the country’s main city from an economic standpoint as well as the most populous with more than five million inhabitants.

What to do and see in Yangon

Although the British influence from the colonial period is evident in the downtown buildings, the city is not exactly “beautiful.” What makes it interesting, in my opinion, is the mix of cultures—Chinese, Indian, and Burmese—and its somewhat “run down” ambiance, all within a surprisingly “relaxed” atmosphere considering the city’s size. In fact, I believe it is the only city in Southeast Asia where scooters and motorcycles have been completely banned!

Aside from wandering the streets and various markets in the city especially in the Chinatown area (Google Maps), the only real attraction is the Shwedagon Pagoda (Google Maps), a giant Buddhist temple considered the holiest in the country. Admission for foreigners is 10,000 kyat. If you want to see a beautiful sunset with the pagoda in the background (as pictured) I recommend the adjacent park here.

Shwedagon Pagoda.

Sule Pagoda, located downtown (Google Maps), has essentially become a traffic circle. While it may not be spectacular, it’s worth visiting since you’re in the area.

To conclude, walking the streets of Yangon I was approached by a really nice monk who convinced me to do an hour of “volunteering” which consists of conversing in English with local students at the “U Aung Hein Kyaw English Class” school located at this address. Anyone is welcome during the morning and you are offered breakfast in return 😉

How to reach Yangon?

Unfortunately, both the airport and long-distance bus station are at least half an hour taxi ride from the city. If you have a sim card, the most practical way is probably to use Grab, the official taxi fare from the airport is $7, however, if you want to save money you can take buses 35 and 36 to Sule-bus stop, or 56/57/58 to Latha-bus stop (Chinatown).

Buses to most destinations (Bagan, Kalaw, Mandalay, Inle Lake, Hpa An, Mawlamyine) leave from Aung Mingalar Bus terminal, also known as “Highway Bus Station.” From the airport to the station is 5,000 MMK by cab. From the bus station by cab is about $7, alternatively you can take bus 36 to Sule – bus stop or 56/57/58 to Latha – bus stop (chinatown).

Instead, buses to the Irrawaddy region (Chaungtha and Ngapali) leave from the Hlaing Thar Yar Bus Terminal.

Finally, there are direct train connections to Bagan and Mandalay. However, they are old and slow trains. Buses are generally a better option.

Where to sleep in Yangon?

I slept at Hostel9 Yangon, for the price it’s not bad at all, great for those on a budget. On the other hand, if you are looking for something nicer take a look at HOOD Hostel.

Yangon.

Kyaikto and Kinpun (Golden Rock)

In my opinion it is by no means a “must see,” but if you have time on your hands and want to break up the trip to Hpa An, then you could spend a night here.

To clarify, the city of Kyaikto is the crossroads to reach the so-called “Golden Rock” while Kinpun is the village located at the base of the mountain where many people decide to sleep and visit the Golden Rock in the day.

Once you get off the bus at Kyaikto, you could base yourself here, visit this giant buddha statue and then continue to the Golden Rock by first taking a pickup truck to Kinpun for 2,000 MMK and then another to the Golden Rock proper, for another 2,000 MMK. 

I decided to base myself in the small village of Kinpun, which is much quieter and “prettier” than Kyaikto. The entrance fee to Golden Rock for foreigners is 10,000 MMK. While it’s not the most impressive site I’ve ever seen, the view is quite nice, and watching the pilgrims is definitely interesting.

Unfortunately, the last truck (a real truck converted into a bus) to Kinpun departs from Golden Rock at 6:00 pm, making it impossible to see the sunset from the top. Be punctual, as I arrived five minutes late and was told I would have to walk down (about 15 km). Luckily, a large group of locals, also late, persuaded the drivers to arrange a special truck for us, which cost 5,000 MMK each.

An alternative, if budget is not an issue and you want to see the sunrise or sunset at Golden Rock, is to stay on top of the mountain. There are hotels very close to the rock, some quite expensive, but also others not found online.

Golden Rock.

How to reach Kyaikto?

As mentioned above, Kyaikto is the crossroads to Kinpun (the village at the base of the mountain) and Golden Rock, which is at the top. The journey from Kyaikto to Hpa An takes about 3 hours and costs 5,500/6,000 MMK, while the trip to Yangon takes 5 hours. I took the bus directly from Kinpun, paying 8,000 MMK.

Where to sleep in Kinpun?

I recommend sleeping in Kinpun. We took a triple room at Hotel pan myo thu, for $35 but we settled for $30 with breakfast, it also had private rooms for $6 each, but really small. Despite the negative reviews we really enjoyed it. A more popular option is Bawga Theiddhi Hotel. 

Hpa An

The city was undoubtedly one of my favorite stops on my Myanmar trip. It is much less touristy than other destinations in the country. The city is really quiet and pleasant, and the surroundings can keep you busy for days.

What to do and see in Hpa An

Technically, many of the places listed below can be reached by bike, but I honestly believe that renting a scooter is much more practical. Tours are also offered that cover basically the same places listed below.

Yathaypyan Cave.

Explore the caves around the city

This is the classic tour of the main caves, which contain small temples and statues. While they may not be exceptional, especially if you have traveled around Asia for a while, they are quite nice and offer a pleasant way to spend the day.

By scooter, you can safely start in the late morning, visiting Kaw Ka Taung Cave (Google Maps). I also recommend climbing to the top of the nearby viewpoint. From here continue to Saddan Cave (Google Maps), 500 MMK to park the scooter and 1,000 MMK to enter the cave. At the end of the route inside the cave you could complete a sort of circuit by taking a boat and walking a short distance (if you take a look at organic maps/maps.me it should be clear what I mean).

Then continue to the iconic Kyauk Ka Lat Pagoda (Google Maps) and finally the last real cave of the day, Yathaypyan Cave (Google Maps), where you have to pay for parking, 500 MMK. There are, also, quite a few monkeys roaming around, so avoid taking food with you and be sure to make it to the end of the cave where there is a beautiful viewpoint. 

To end the day, head to the Bat Cave (Google Maps) where every evening at dusk you can watch the spectacle of a flock of bats coming out to hunt, really cool! Admission costs 1,000 MMK. Don’t be swayed by the many people you are likely to see at the top of the stupa, the best place to see the bats is further down, as marked on maps.me.

Kaw Ka Taung Cave.

Hpa Pu

Hpa Pu is a small village located on the other side of the river that can be reached by taking a boat for 500 MMK here. Once there, you can walk through the village and then hike up to Hpa Pu Hill, where a popular small stupa offers a great spot for both sunset and sunrise viewing (Google Maps).

The last section of the trail is not in good condition and certainly not considered safe, but with a little care, you can safely reach the summit. Alternatively, you can enjoy the sunset from a lower point on the hill. If you stay late, be sure to arrange a time for the boat to return. Alternatively, you can reach Hpa Pu by land, though it is a longer route.

Hpa Pu Hil.

Mount Zwegabin

This is a really popular hike. On the top of Mount Zwegabin (Google Maps) is a really impressive monastery, from which you have a very spectacular 360-degree view, although in all likelihood there will be a lot of haze on the horizon during the dry season. 

I went up at sunrise, reaching the base of the mountain by scooter in about 20 minutes from Hpa An. The entrance fee is 4,000 MMK. Given the 600 meters of elevation gain, it takes about an hour to an hour and a half to walk up, depending on your pace (All Trails). It is advisable to do this at dawn or early in the morning to avoid the heat during the day.

Upon reaching the top I was greeted by a group of local boys who sat me down to eat Mohinga, a traditional Burmese dish, before watching the sunrise. The latter was not particularly spectacular, but a good experience nonetheless.

Before heading back to the city, check out the Lumbini Garden (Google Maps) at the base of Mount Zwegabin. There are hundreds of Buddha statues, very impressive!

Mount Zwegabin.

Mount Taung Wine

Mount Taung Wine (Google Maps) is a less “hard” alternative to Mount Zwegabin, much less crowded and in my opinion, the view is also prettier or at least very similar. I went at sunset but sunrise must not be bad either!

Reach this point (Google Maps) on your scooter; from here, the direction is quite clear. If you need directions, there are a couple of stalls where you can ask. Climbing at a brisk pace took me about twenty minutes to reach the top, but even at a leisurely pace, it should take a maximum of 40 minutes. At the top, there is a small stupa with a 360-degree view, and when I was there, only five other people were present. I recommend this more than Mount Zwegabin. The entrance is free, but you can leave an offering at the beginning of the trail if you wish.

In conclusion, don’t leave Hpa An without getting a massage from the blind masseurs at this center. Not only will you support a really interesting project, but you will also receive what I consider the best massage ever, all for only 7,000 MMK for an hour and a half session.

Mount Taung Wine.

How to reach Hpa An?

From Yangon it’s about 7 hours, 8,000 MMK, Mawlamyine to the south is about two hours, Mae Sot where you can cross the border into Thailand is about 3 hours by minivan, they might ask for 150,000 MMK but you can easily go down to 10,000 MMK.

From Hpa An you can also take a boat down the river to Mawlamyine. I have not done this but apparently the trip is nice. There should be a boat every day at 8:15 a.m. at a cost of 14,000 MMK. 

Where to sleep in Hpa An?

Thanlwin Pyar Guest House is by far the best place to stay for solo travelers. It is almost always sold out, so it pays to book in advance. I shared a triple room at River View Hotel, really nice staff and good breakfast.

Bat Cave.

Mawlamyine

Mawlamyine, with a population of over three hundred thousand people, is the fourth largest city in Myanmar. Taken by the British during the first campaign of conquest in 1826, it was the colonial capital from 1827 to 1852. This city is also definitely off the classic tourist itinerary but can definitely be an interesting stop, especially for those arriving overland from Thailand.

What to do and see in Mawlamyine

Somewhat like Hpa An, it is advisable to rent a scooter to explore the city and surroundings.

Win Sein Taw Ya Monastery

Here you can find the world’s largest reclining Buddha, about 180 meters long and 30 meters high, is located about 20 km from the city and surrounded by numerous other stupas, statues and religious buildings (Google Maps). Admission is free but of course you can leave a donation. As mentioned above, renting a scooter is probably the most practical option; there is no public transportation but alternatively, a round trip tuk tuk should cost no more than 35,000 MMK.

Mahamyatmuni Pagoda and Kyaik Thanlan

These are the two most important pagodas in the city and are centrally located within walking distance of each other. Kyaik Thanlan (Google Maps) is the taller of the two and offers excellent views of the city with a 360-degree panorama, especially recommended at sunset.

Than Phyu Zayat, Setse Beach and Kyaikkami.

Two other day trips that can be made from Mawlamyine are to Than Phyu Zayat, and Setse Beach in the south (Google Maps). The latter is not exactly a Caribbean beach but nice, while the former is a town where you can visit the Death Railway Museum (Google Maps) and the war cemetery (Google Maps). If you wanted, you could continue further to Kyaikkhami to visit the pagoda (Google Maps) via the village of Panga where there are numerous salt flats.

Finally, don’t forget to visit the night market for an authentic experience, and for museum enthusiasts, the Mon Cultural Museum seems to be an interesting visit where information and artifacts belonging to the Mon ethnic group are collected; admission costs $2.

Pagoda Kyaikkami.

How to reach Mawlamyine?

From Yangon it is about seven hours, 10,000-15,000 MMK depending on the bus. From Hpa it is about two hours, 1,200 MMK for a local bus, 7,500 MMK for an air-conditioned minivan, as mentioned earlier, from Hpa An there are also boat connections, definitely nicer as a trip. Finally, there are direct connections to Mae Sot at the Thai border, about 4 hours, 10,000 MMK for a minivan.

Where to sleep in Mawlamyine?

The old Moulmein Hostel is basically the only hostel in town. If you are looking for cheap private rooms check out Pinlon Hostel. 

Kalaw

Located about 50 km from Inle Lake, Kalaw is a small crossroads town for anyone who wants to undertake a one-day or multi-day trek to Inle Lake.

What to do and see in Kalaw

The town, while pretty, does not have much to offer and most travelers end up spending only one night exclusively to organize the trek. If you have a few hours available I recommend checking out the local market, delicious food at bargain prices, and trying “Hon Toke” similar to Mexican tamales.

Thein Taung Monastery, on the other hand, is a great place to watch the sunset. Finally, if you want a good massage before you start trekking, check out this center.

Inle Lake Trek.

Trekking to Inle Lake

As mentioned earlier, trekking is the main reason people come to Kalaw. There are numerous options offered by various agencies, ranging from a short one-day trek to longer three-day, two-night treks, which is the option I chose.

You’ll journey through rural areas, visiting small villages and walking through fields. Accommodation at night is in basic homestays. Especially in the late dry season, the landscape can be very dry, so don’t expect lush views of rice terraces. Nonetheless, it’s an exciting and enjoyable experience overall.

I opted for the longest trek available: on the first day, we walked 23 km; on the second day, 27 km; and finally, on the last day, 14 km, arriving at the western shores of the lake. From there, you take a boat to the town of Nyaung Shwe. Most hostels and hotels are located in this town, but as mentioned earlier, there are many options, so I recommend visiting different agencies to find the itinerary that suits you best.

I completed the trek with Uncle Sam for 45,000 MMK and had a great experience. Another budget-friendly option is Ever Smile, priced at 40,000 MMK but with larger groups. For a more exclusive experience, Ko Min Kalaw is renowned for its alternative itineraries on less-traveled routes, with excellent reviews, though prices are higher.

Local Train.

Where to sleep in Kalaw?

At that time I was traveling in a group and we took two private rooms at Richard’s Inn; cheap, clean and a good breakfast included. If you are traveling alone and looking for a dormitory, check out Hotel Kalaw and Parami Hotel. 

How to reach Kalaw?

Basically any bus going to Inle Lake can drop you off in Kalaw, which means there are connections from all major destinations in the country (Yangon, Hpa An, Bagan, Mandalay, and Hsipaw). There are also train connections, but these are much slower than the bus. If you want to fly instead, the nearest airport is called Heho Airport and is about an hour’s drive away.

Inle Lake

Inle Lake is considered the second major attraction in Myanmar, after Bagan. The lake, although extremely touristy and at times really inauthentic, is still a fascinating place. 

Nyaung Shwe is the main lakefront town, which is where most of the hotels and hostels are located. To enter the Inle Lake area you have to pay the entrance fee, the cost is 15,000 MMK, technically the ticket is valid for five days but once you enter, hardly anyone will check your ticket. If you decide to do the trek, just before you get to the lake you will find a checkpoint where you can pay the entrance fee, if you arrive by bus there will be someone at the bus station instead.

Inle Lake.

What to do and see at Inle Lake

Taking a boat tour is essentially the only way to explore the lake, although private tours can be arranged. Generally, there are two types of “standard” tours available:

The first includes visits to souvenir stores and “typical” activities where the boat captain earns commissions, making this option cheaper (I paid 9,000 MMK).

The second tour excludes stops at stores and thus costs more.

You can choose between a morning tour to catch the sunrise at the lake and return to Nyaung Shwe by early afternoon, or an afternoon tour departing late morning and returning just after sunset.

Despite initial expectations, I found it quite interesting to visit some of the stores where we stopped. They often offer guided tours of their production workshops before presenting their products for sale, although there is no obligation to buy. I was particularly fascinated by the workshop showcasing lotus fiber weaving for clothes.

Lotus fiber weaving.

Another typical stop on the boat tour is Inthein, also known as “mini Bagan,” where hundreds of stupas can be found. Entrance is free, but a fee of 5,000 MMK is requested for photography, which I’m unsure of its legality.

Lastly, if you decide to photograph the fishermen dressed in traditional clothes with the iconic nets (though these are no longer used in actual fishing), tipping is expected. These individuals are often actors who earn their livelihood from posing, not from fishing. However, photographing other fishermen is usually free of charge.

Finally, in downtown Nyaung Shwe it is worth visiting the Yadana Man Aung pagoda, though not exceptional, as well as the local market and of course try a traditional massage, there is certainly no shortage of options for this; most traditional centers charge only 7,000 MMK for an hour massage, I have been here and recommend it.

Inthein.

How to get to Inle Lake?

Reaching Inle Lake, or more specifically Nyaung Shwe, is relatively easy from any other destination in the country. As with Kalaw, the nearest airport is Heho. From there it is then 45 minutes by taxi, 25,000 MMK. From Yangon by bus it is about 12 hours, 7-8 hours from Mandalay and Bagan, 8 hours from Hisapaw. 

N.b. Some buses drop you off in Shwenyaung, which is about 20 minutes from Nyaung Shwe, so it is good to confirm the destination before booking. From Shwenyaung there are occasional pick up trucks for 1,000 MMK, or shared taxis for 8,000 to 10,000 MMK.

There are also train connections to Shwenyaung but, as with any other destination, the latter while cheaper are much slower than buses 

Where to sleep in Inle Lake?

Song of Travel in Nyaung Shwe is one of the best hostels I’ve ever stayed in and I can’t recommend it enough, the staff is really caring, spacious and super comfortable dorms, breakfast included that changes daily, free bike rental, and if at the end of the trek you arrive at the Nyaung Shwe pier, they pick you up for free by tuk tuk. It pays to book in advance because it is often sold out, if you then decide to extend your stay they offer a $1 discount. A good alternative is BaoBed Hostel.

Hsipaw

Hsipaw is the main city of Shan State in the northeast of the country.

What to do and see in Hsipaw

The city is an excellent base for trekking in northern Myanmar for one or more days, visiting ethnic villages, waterfalls, tea plantations and hilly landscapes, plus-being at an altitude of about 500 meters-it offers a much more pleasant climate than the rest of the country, particularly Mandalay and Bagan.

Hsipaw.

Take the train from Pyin Oo Lwin to Hsipaw or vice versa

Before talking about activities to do in and around Hsipaw, it is worth mentioning the train ride that many people decide to take. In fact, this is the only train I took during my trip to Myanmar: an impressive stretch during which one crosses the Goteik Viaduct, built by the British during the colonial period, a very impressive piece of engineering for those times. 

The entire train route passes through hilly and rural landscapes, offering passengers a unique experience. If you’ve never ridden a train in Myanmar, this is definitely something to try.

The train is quite old, and once it reaches its top speed (about 50 km/h), you’ll feel the whole carriage bouncing. If you have a window seat, you might find a few leaves or small debris blowing in. The cleanliness along the tracks leaves something to be desired; it almost seems as if the train itself is responsible for trimming the grass along the tracks.

While the train connects Mandalay directly to Hsipaw, I recommend boarding or disembarking at Pyin Oo Lwin, depending on your direction. By continuing by road instead of the tracks, you’ll save at least three hours of travel time.

The train fare for the Hsipaw to Pyin Oo Lwin route is 2,750 MMK for first class and 550 MMK for ordinary class. I highly recommend choosing a window seat. Departure from Hsipaw is at 9:45 a.m., with tickets on sale from 8:45 a.m. During peak season, window seats in first class sell out quickly (Google Maps).

From Pyin Oo Lwin station (Google Maps), there are pickup services to downtown Mandalay for 2,000 MMK. We managed to persuade the driver to take us directly to the hostel; otherwise, the official stop is in front of the train station. For the reverse trip, you can take a pickup from this point or a shared taxi for about 5,000 MMK. The train departs Mandalay at 4:00 a.m. and arrives in Pyin Oo Lwin at 7:52 a.m.

I personally didn’t stay, but apparently Pyin Oo Lwin is a nice town to spend a couple of days in. I met a Korean guy who recommended it, along with the waterfalls that are south of downtown.

Goteik Viaduct.

Trekking around Hsipaw

Let’s talk about Hsipaw. In town, there are numerous trekking agencies offering a variety of options, from one-day treks to two-day, one-night treks, and even three-day, two-night treks. Similar to the trek to Inle Lake, don’t expect breathtaking scenery; the focus is more on visiting villages and experiencing local life.

I had received several recommendations to trek with a guide named Kham Lu (you can contact him on WhatsApp at +95 9250 693 985, and he has fantastic reviews). Unfortunately, I would have been the only customer, and the tour would have been costly. So, instead, I decided to join a group of travelers I met on the minivan to Hsipaw, who had booked with Mr. Bike. I paid 35,000 MMK for the two-day, one-night trek. While we were treated well and I have no complaints about the tour, it wasn’t a particularly memorable experience.

N.b. It is impossible to trek in the area without a guide. Some areas are to this day still mined and following an accident during which a German traveler lost his life, venturing out alone is absolutely prohibited.

Trekking in Hsipaw.

Visit the Shan Palace

Rather than a palace, it is a house located northeast of the center, once the residence of the royal family led by the Shan ethnic group whose king “mysteriously” disappeared during the army coup in 1962.

Today, the residence is maintained by his nephew and his wife, who courageously recount the region’s history of the past 50 years, delving into their family’s experiences—a history that is evidently inconvenient for the regime.

Unfortunately, during my stay in Hsipaw, the princess was out of town. However, she is usually present and available to share her firsthand account of events between approximately 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. Alternatively, one can delve into her own written account in the book titled “Twilight over Burma: My Life as a Shan Princess“.

To conclude, there are at least a couple of waterfalls that can be reached independently around the city: Nam Tuk (Google Maps) and Nam Hu Nwe (Google Maps). Sunset hill (Google Maps) is a scenic spot where you can see a beautiful sunset over the city, and finally you can walk to Little Bagan (Google Maps), where there are pretty temples. Before heading back to the city, enjoy a delicious meal at Mrs. Popcorn Garden.

Visiting a local school in one of the villages along the trek.

How to reach Hsipaw?

As mentioned above, many decide to reach or leave the city by train if you are coming from the south, personally I think the ideal is to take a minivan from Nyaung Shwe, 18,000 MMK, about 8 hours and then take the train to Mandalay, or do the opposite if you are coming from the north.

Where to sleep in Hsipaw?

I shared a double room at Lily Guest House for a couple of days and would recommend it. Very good value for money with buffet breakfast. I also spent one night at Yee Shin Guesthouse, slightly cheaper but nothing much and breakfast not as good. Once I got back from trekking, unable to share a room anymore, I moved to Nam Khae Mao Guest House, only 5,000 MMK for a single room. It is frequented exclusively by locals but I guarantee it’s not bad at all-if you can live without wifi!

Mandalay

Mandalay is the second-largest city in Myanmar and undoubtedly the most significant city in northern Myanmar. Despite being overlooked by many travelers, I believe there are more than enough attractions to keep you engaged for at least a couple of days.

What to do and see in Mandalay

The city is built around the royal palace, which I did not personally visit; the reviews about it are somewhat mixed between those who say it is absolutely a must see and others who think it is a sham because the original palace was destroyed during the World War II bombings and what you admire now is merely a replica built in the 1990s. Your choice.  Admission is included in the combo ticket that also allows access to other sites and costs 10,000 MMK. Bring your passport.

Kuthodaw Pagoda.

Kuthodaw Pagoda, Sandar Mu Ni Pagoda and Kyauktawgyi Paya

Kuthodaw Pagoda (Google Maps), Sandar Mu Ni Pagoda (Google Maps), and Kyauktawgyi Paya (Google Maps) are located really close to each other at the foot of Mandalay Hill and are therefore easily visited within a couple of hours, perhaps before climbing the hill to watch the sunset.

Kuthodaw Pagoda is home to what is considered the world’s largest book, consisting of hundreds of stone slabs (730 to be exact) that are located inside the stupas surrounding the main pagoda and collect the Buddha’s teachings in the Pali language. Technically you need a combo ticket to enter but checks are rare and I entered without a ticket.

Admission to Sandar Mu Ni Pagoda and Kyauktawgyi Paya is free. The former is especially impressive when viewed from above (Mandalay Hill) while the latter has a giant Buddha statue.

If you purchased the combo ticket you can also visit the nearby Shwenandaw Monastery, built entirely of wood. Here you can admire its famous carvings. If you are looking for a less touristy alternative with free admission, check out Shwe In Bin Monastery.

Sandar Mu Ni Pagoda.

Mandalay Hill

This hill overlooking the city (Google Maps) is a great way to spend a couple of hours and, as just mentioned, is a great place from which to watch the sunset. The top is reached by a road, but I strongly recommend walking from the base; the steps go through several temples before reaching the main pagoda at the top of the hill, for which there is an entrance fee of 1,000 MMK.

Honestly, the view doesn’t change much, and there are several spots where you can stop and admire the view without necessarily reaching the top and paying admission. By the way, one of the pagodas below is full of monks who want to practice their English, so if you feel like having a conversation, learning about their culture or just doing good work, you can stop here. If I am not mistaken, it is the second to last or third to last pagoda before the top.

Mandalay Hill.

U Bein Bridge

The iconic two-and-a-half kilometer-long bridge (Google Maps) is the longest bridge in the world built of teak wood. It may be that the place is extremely photogenic, but spending an hour watching the locals cross the bridge and the fishermen nearby was very nice.

If you decide to rent the scooter for the whole day, you can easily combine it with visiting other sites in the surrounding area and also visiting Mingun on the other side of the river. I wanted to go at dawn so I took a Grab scooter, 5,000 MMK, the driver offered to wait for an hour and then took me back for another 5,000 MMK. If you don’t necessarily want to go at dawn, you should have no problem finding someone to share a taxi with and pay even less by perhaps visiting the nearby Mahagandayon Monastery, built in 1914. It is the largest Buddhist monastery in Myanmar, so ideally you should visit it before 10:30 a.m. so you can attend the solemn rituals.

U Bein Bridge.

Mingun

Mingun is on the other side of the river and is a great day trip that can be done by ferry, or, as mentioned earlier, if you decide to rent a scooter you can combine it with a visit to the U Bein Bridge and a few other sites.

Once you arrive at your destination, you are asked to pay for an entrance fee to the Mingun Archaeological Area at a cost of 5,000 MMK. The ferry costs 5,000 MMK leaves at 9:00 am from this point (Google Maps) and returns at 1:00 pm. 

In Mingun everything there is to see is within a few kilometers. The main sites are: Mingun Pahtodawgyi, also known as the unfinished pagoda, is described by some as the largest pile of bricks in the world; The Mingun Giant Bell; and finally Mya Thein Tan Pagoda, also known as the “White Pagoda” undoubtedly the most impressive of the three sites.

White Pagoda in Mingun.

How to reach Mandalay?

Mandalay International Airport is the newest and most modern airport in the country, located about 45 km south of the city, a private taxi should cost about 15,000 MMK while shared taxis and minivans cost 4,000 MMK. 

There are at least three bus stations, each offering connections to a different region of the country. Considering that virtually all hostels and agencies that sell tickets include “pick up” at the hostel/hotel I would not worry too much. Generally speaking, there are frequent connections to all major tourist destinations.

Where to sleep in Mandalay?

I personally slept at Aplus Hostel, it is a new hostel that offers great value for money, the rooftop terrace is great as is the wifi, the only complaint I have is the size of the dorms: a bit too small! Mansion Hostel is located not far away, a friend slept there and it did not look bad at all.

Bagan

Here we finally come to the reason why so many people visit Myanmar each year. Located on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River, Bagan boasts the largest and most densely concentrated collection of Buddhist temples, pagodas, and stupas in the world, many of which date back to the 11th and 12th centuries.

During its golden age, it’s estimated that there were over 13,000 structures including temples and stupas. Today, about 2,200 are left, but the city remains absolutely fascinating. In 2019, Bagan was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Bagan.

Note: Admission to the archaeological area costs 25,000 MMK, and the ticket is valid for five days. If you arrive by taxi from the bus station or airport, the driver will stop at the checkpoint for you to purchase the pass. Unlike Inle Lake, checks are especially stringent at the entrances to the man-made hills built for viewing sunrise and sunset. Climbing to the tops of temples, as was done in the past, is no longer permitted for preservation reasons.

What to do and see in Bagan

If you have even a bit of experience behind the wheel, I highly recommend renting “e-bikes” or electric scooters. They cost 7,000 MMK per day and give you the freedom to explore anywhere. I also suggest focusing your explorations in the city during the early morning or late afternoon, as the middle hours can be extremely hot.

Sunrise, sunset and temples

It’s quite likely that after a full day of visiting temples and stupas, you may feel satisfied, especially if you’ve traveled extensively in Asia.That is why below I list those that are considered the “must sees” and can be easily visited within a day: Shwezigon Pagoda (Google Maps), Ananda Temple (Google Maps), Shwegugyi Phaya (Google Maps), Thatbyinnyu Temple (Google Maps), Sulamani Temple  (Google Maps), Dhammayangyi Temple (Google Maps), Shwesandaw Phaya (Google Maps) and the nearby giant reclining Buddha (Google Maps), and finally this temple (Google Maps) that the janitor can open for you.

Shwezigon Pagoda.

As for viewpoints for sunrises and sunsets, I literally spent five days looking for the best ones. For sunrise, I recommend this spot (Google Maps), virtually unknown to the crowds, gives excellent views of Shwesandaw Phaya, Dhammayangyi Temple and hot air balloons. A good alternative is Angel’s sunrise hill (Google Maps).

As for the sunset, Sulamani Sunset hill (Google Maps) is not bad, but if you want to try your luck, at this spot (Google Maps) I saw a local offering access to a temple roof using a ladder for a sunset view.

To conclude, it’s quite common to be approached by locals who know of “secret viewpoints” for watching sunrise or sunset. These spots can sometimes be illegal, like the one I just mentioned, or they may be lesser-known locations with genuinely beautiful views. If approached, it’s wise to ask to see pictures first and then assess the situation carefully. Avoid committing to buying paintings or other items in exchange for tips, as this could end up being costly. Instead, negotiate any financial arrangements upfront.

Bagan.

Hot air balloon ride

This is a really expensive but undoubtedly unique experience, costing around $300 for a one-hour flight. I personally could not justify that cost but a girl I was traveling with at the time decided to treat herself and in her opinion it was absolutely worth it. 

FYI, hot air balloons fly exclusively at dawn during the dry season, roughly from November to April. You can easily book them in town the day before your desired flight.

Mount Popa

At an altitude of 1,500 meters, about 60 kilometers from Bagan, Mt. Popa (Google Maps) is an extinct volcano on top of which is a fascinating monastery; it is quite a popular destination because it can be visited in a day from Bagan. 

To reach the top you have to climb an impressive 777 steps. Fortunately, most of the trail is in the shade, and there are numerous places along the way that sell food and drinks. There are also numerous monkeys and that is why it is not recommended to bring food. Once you reach the top, weather permitting, the view is excellent and you can easily see the Irrawaddy River in the distance.

Mount Popa.

How to reach Bagan?

The connections from Mandalay are frequent, it is about 5 hours and the cost of 9,000 MMK includes pick up from your hostel/hotel. From Mandalay if you want you can also go down to Bagan by ferry, theoretically there is a daily departure at 7:00 a.m., 8-9 hours and about $40, there is also a slow boat that is used by locals that costs about $10 but takes up to 17 hours.

There are also direct buses from Yangon, about 11,000 to 22,000 MMK depending on the bus chosen, 9-10 hours. From Inle Lake it is 8-10 hours, 15,000 – 25,000 MMK. In any case, all long-distance buses arrive at the station which is about 7 km outside of town where the taxi mafia will not allow you to board the pickups used by locals going downtown. Grab does not work and the official fare is 8,000 MMK, although you will probably be asked for much more at first.

It is also possible to reach the city by train, but travel time increases considerably. Finally, Bagan has a small airport that offers domestic flights to the country’s major cities.

Where to sleep in Bagan?

The two main areas to stay in are Nyaung-U and New Bagan. Both are basically equidistant from the ruins. If you are looking for an inexpensive room with a great breakfast included, I strongly recommend Shwe Nadi Guest House. They also have a dormitory and I recommend booking in advance because they often sell out.

If, on the other hand, you want a more social atmosphere, then check out BaoBed Hostel, OstelloBello, and OstelloBello Pool. All three are great hostels even if not exactly cheap.

If you found this article helpful, please consider purchasing your travel insurance through one of the links on this site, doing so supports my work at no additional cost to you. For EU & UK Residents, i recommend True Traveller. For everyone else i recommend HeyMondo (5% discount). Thanks!

Beaches in Myanmar

The following destinations are all places I haven’t personally visited but are ideal for anyone looking to spend a few days at the beach.

Ngapali

This is probably the most popular beach destination in the country, especially among locals. The main beach is not exactly “backpacker friendly”—there are numerous resorts, and it has a luxurious vibe. However, there seem to be plenty of alternatives to explore without breaking the bank. For an overview of the destination, possible activities, where to sleep, etc., etc., I recommend taking a look at this post.

Ngapali.

Ngwe Saung and Chaungtha

These are two destinations in the south of the country that have become popular in recent years.Apparently the beach is not as nice as in Ngapali, but if you are looking for a less traveled alternative to spend a few days at the beach in Myanmar, I recommend you check out these two destinations.

Here you can find a guide.

Chaungtha.

Mergui Archipelago

This archipelago, in the far south of the country bordering Thailand, offers some of the world’s best diving sites. There are hundreds of paradisiacal islands (over eight hundred!) that unfortunately to date, as far as I know, do not offer many options for budget travelers. In fact, there seems to be only a few resorts from which excursions can then be arranged. Instead, a popular alternative especially for divers are liveaboards.   

Suggested itineraries in Myanmar

To visit all the places described would take about two months. Considering that the visa lasts only 28 days, and many people do not have that much time anyway, below I list some one- or multi-week itineraries that include major tourist destinations. These can serve as a starting point for planning an itinerary based on personal interests and the information shared so far:

One-week itinerary in Myanmar

With only one week to spare I personally recommend focusing on Bagan, Mandalay and Inle Lake. Should you arrive in Yangon then it is worth spending a day in the city, otherwise I recommend saving time and staying in the north of the country by flying directly to Mandalay.

Yangon (1 night)

Day 1:

Explore the city, visit the Shwedagon Pagoda then take the overnight bus to Bagan, or a flight the next day.

Bagan (2 nights)

Day 2:

Visit temples, enjoy sunsets.

Day 3:

Hot air balloon ride (if you can afford it!) otherwise explore the city, don’t miss the sunrise.

Inle Lake (2 nights)

Day 4:

Transfer to Inle Lake.

Day 5:

Lake Tour.

Mandalay (1 night)

Day 6:

Inle Lake – Mandalay transfer. Sunset from Sunset Hill.

Day 7:

If you have arrived in Mandalay, then technically you have an extra day that I would recommend spending among the various pagodas in the city, Mingun or whatever else is of interest to you. In case you have arrived in Yangon, and you have a flight back from Yangon, then I doubt you have time to do all that.

10-day itinerary in Myanmar

With ten days to spare my advice is to follow the itinerary just described, in which case arriving in Yangon might be “preferable” so as to spend a day or two there before following the week-long itinerary and staying slightly longer in Mandalay at the end of the trip.

Two-week itinerary in Myanmar

With fifteen days to spare I would personally add only one stop, Hpa An and a nice activity like trekking to Inle Lake, following the itinerary described below:

Yangon (1 night)

Day 1:

Explore the city, visit the Shwedagon Pagoda.

Hpa An (3 nights)

Day 2:

Transfer to Hpa An. Mount Taung Wine at sunset.

Day 3:

Explore caves around the city as described in the dedicated section.

Day 4:

Mount Zwegabin at sunrise. Overnight bus to Kalaw.

Kalaw (1 night)

Day 5:

Book your trek for the next day, relax and visit the local market.

Inle Lake(4 nights)

Day 6:

First day of the trek.

Day 7:

Day two of the trek.

Day 8:

Day three of the trek. Arrival at Inle Lake.

Day 9:

Inle Lake Tour.

Bagan

Day 10:

Transfer to Bagan. Enjoy the sunset.

Day 11:

Hot air balloon ride (if you can afford it!) otherwise explore the city, don’t miss the sunrise.

Mandalay (2 nights)

Day 12:

Inle Lake – Mandalay transfer. Sunset from Sunset Hill.

Day 13:

Visit the city’s various pagodas, Mingun or whatever is of interest to you.

Day 14:

Return to Yangon.

Three-week itinerary in Myanmar

A twenty-day trip provides a decent time frame, so my advice is to follow the previously described itinerary, perhaps spending a few extra days in Bagan. Additionally, you can include a stop at either Hsipaw for trekking or a seaside destination for some beach time.

Four-week itinerary in Myanmar

This is technically the maximum stay allowed under the tourist visa, although as mentioned at the beginning of this guide, overstay is not punished severely so you could easily spend a few more days without incurring hefty fines. 

In any case, with a month to spare you should be able to touch all the destinations described in the guide, except for those described in the “Beaches in Myanmar” section, for which you would most likely have to compromise.

How to get around Myanmar

While researching my trip to Myanmar, I frequently read that the infrastructure was poor, the roads were in bad condition, and travel times were very long. However, in recent years, the situation has improved significantly, and the main routes connecting major tourist destinations are now in good condition.

Exceptions include the roads to the country’s east coast and the far south toward the Thai border. It’s also important to remember that during the rainy season, road conditions can deteriorate drastically.

Buses in Myanmar

For those on a tight budget, buses are undoubtedly the best option. There are various types, and for long routes, “VIP” buses are often available. These buses have three seats per row instead of four, offering plenty of space and a good level of comfort.

Especially on night buses, I strongly recommend bringing a sweatshirt. Although a blanket is almost always provided, the air conditioning is kept at very cold temperatures. Virtually any accommodation I have stayed at had a complete list of possible destinations, schedules, and bus prices. Booking directly with the company can save some money, but often the bus station is outside the city. Therefore, booking through your accommodation is much more convenient as “pick up” at the hostel/hotel is often included.

Another means of transportation used extensively by locals for short and medium distances are old Toyota pickups converted to “minibusses,” with benches in the back. They are extremely cheap and often the only form of public transportation in remote parts of the country. They generally leave only when full or nearly full. One popular route for backpackers aboard these pickups is from Mandalay to Pyin U Lwin, which can be a real adventure.

Local Pick up in Myanmar.

Trains in Myanmar

Despite the country’s extensive rail network, trains are not exactly a practical way to get around, much less quickly. Infrastructure dates back to colonial times and has seen virtually no investment over the years. Compared to buses, travel times from point A to point B are often at least twice as long, except for the Yangon – Mandalay line, where buses remain faster, however.

That said, taking a train in Myanmar at least once is definitely a worthwhile experience. As described in this guide, I took the train from Mandalay to Hsipaw; another popular route is the Yangon Circular Train described in this post.

Domestic Flights in Myanmar

If budget is not an issue, domestic flights are by far the most practical and quickest way to travel within the country, especially between the north, south, and possibly the west coast. However, it is advisable to avoid the state-owned Myanmar National Airlines due to its relatively poor safety record.

Some private companies that operate domestic flights are: AirMandalay, Airmyp, Golden Myanmar Airways and Air KBZ.

Taxi in Myanmar

In my experience, taxi drivers in Myanmar are generally more honest than in the rest of Southeast Asia. However, it is still worthwhile to haggle over the price before boarding. If you have a SIM card, using Grab in big cities is often more practical and cheaper.

Backpacking Myanmar: costs

You will be happy to know that a trip to Myanmar is very inexpensive. Of all the countries I have visited, it is objectively one of the cheapest. As mentioned at the beginning of this guide, prices for accommodation and various activities are often quoted in U.S. dollars, which are widely accepted as a form of payment.

Cost of Accommodation in Myanmar

Lodging is probably the only exception when it comes to low prices. Given the recent opening of the country, some destinations still do not have many hostels or hotels, so competition is low and prices are relatively high. However, this is changing quickly, and in a few years, prices are likely to drop significantly.

Even now, accommodation is more than affordable, with dormitory prices generally ranging between $5-10 and private rooms in guesthouses between $10-20. Often in Myanmar, sharing a double room is cheaper than two beds in a hostel. Almost all accommodations in the country include breakfast in the price.

Cost of transportation in Myanmar

The cost of transportation is really low, long-distance buses hardly cost more than two euros per hour in the “VIP” version, regular ones cost on average a good 30 percent less, the so-called “pick-ups” are extremely cheap, 70 km from Pyin Oo Lwin to Mandalay cost a little more than one euro. For taxis, as already mentioned, I recommend using Grab where present.

Typical course in Myanmar.

Cost of food in Myanmar

Street food, or food served in restaurants, is among the cheapest I have ever encountered. A noodle soup can cost as little as 500 MMK, and even a more substantial meal is unlikely to cost more than 2,000 MMK. In more touristy places or less local sit-down restaurants, you can still eat for about three dollars.

Other costs (withdraws and sim card)

Entrance fees to monuments are often charged for foreigners and are free for locals, but they remain reasonably priced. For example, Shwedagon Pagoda costs 10,000 MMK, Inle Lake 15,000 MMK, and Bagan 25,000 MMK.

If you pay by card, you incur a 3% fee, so it is preferable to pay in cash. However, withdrawing cash is not cheap. The best options are CB Bank, which allows a maximum withdrawal of 300,000 MMK at a cost of 6,500 MMK, and AYA Bank, which allows withdrawals of 400,000 MMK at the same cost. From personal experience, the amount you can withdraw can vary from ATM to ATM, and international cards are not always accepted.

In addition to the 6,500 MMK charged by the local bank, any fees your own bank charges must be added. For this reason, I encourage you to check out my article on the best cards for traveling.

Finally, for those who want a data SIM, I recommend Telenor, which seems to have the best nationwide coverage. There are various data packages available, and I paid 7,500 MMK for six gigs.

If your phone supports eSIMs and you prefer immediate internet access without buying a local SIM, consider services like Airalo or Ubigi. However, note that eSIMs typically cost more per gigabyte than local SIMs, and their local partner may not always offer the best coverage. Most travelers would likely benefit from a local SIM (or even a local eSIM), but consider your specific needs, as exceptions exist. For instance, during my Japan trip, Ubigi’s plan was cheaper than any local SIM available to non-residents.

Are you planning a trip to Myanmar? Check out these posts:

The best cards for traveling

What to bring on your trip

Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!

If you found this article helpful, please consider purchasing your travel insurance through one of the links on this site, doing so supports my work at no additional cost to you. For EU & UK Residents, i recommend True Traveller. For everyone else i recommend HeyMondo (5% discount). Thanks!

For donations/pizzas and virtual beers 🙂 

Did you like the post? Pin it!