Myanmar Travel Guide

Myanmar, or Burma, stayed away from mass tourism for years and is now slowly gaining popularity for lots of good reasons, but luckily it still keeps a good dose of authenticity!

Temples, spectacular scenery and an extremely friendly population that will literally overwhelm you with smiles make Myanmar one of the countries that has stayed closest to my heart.

I spent 4 weeks backpacking from south to north (you can find the video of my trip here, in Italian, but you can turn on the subtitles). In this guide, you’ll find information and tips to plan your trip as best you can, as always with an eye on your budget.

Quick menu

• When to visit Myanmar
• Documents and vaccinations to enter Myanmar
• What to do and see in Myanmar
  Destinations

  • Yangon
  • Kyaikto and Kinpun (Golden Rock)
  • Hpa An
  • Mawlamyine
  • Kalaw
  • Inle Lake
  • Hsipaw
  • Mandalay
  • Bagan
• Suggested itineraries in Myanmar
• How to get around Myanmar
• Backpacking Myanmar: costs
• Backpacking Myanmar: safety

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Fisherman on Inle Lake.

When to visit Myanmar

When should you go to Myanmar? The country has a tropical climate with monsoons that bring rain roughly from May/June to October. During this period, the roads can be in terrible condition and overland travel can be difficult. That said, the center-north of the country gets only a fraction of the rain compared to the south, so the situation shouldn’t be all that extreme.

The dry season runs from November to May and is generally the best time to visit the country: temperatures are pleasant and there’s no rain. The months from November to March are especially recommended, as April and May, just before the rains, can be really hot and humid, with temperatures that in some cases exceed 40 degrees, especially in the central regions around Mandalay and Bagan. Unfortunately, August, when many people take their well-deserved vacation, is often the rainiest month of the year.

If you’re a perfectionist, the absolute best time to go to Myanmar is the months right after the rains, roughly from late October to late December, when the weather is ideal and the landscape is still green and not particularly dry like in the following months. Of course, this period, partly because of the Christmas holidays, is the peak season, with prices to match.

Sunrise in Bagan.

Documents and vaccinations to enter Myanmar

Since September 2014, holders of an Italian passport (valid for more than 6 months) can easily apply for an electronic visa (eVisa), which is issued within a maximum of three working days and must be used within 90 days of the date of issue (the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours). With this type of visa, once you’ve entered the country you can stay for up to 28 days. The visa costs $50, this is the official website to apply. If you need it, for an extra $6 you can get the visa in just one working day.

Once you’ve received the visa by email, you must enter through one of the eight designated border crossings (if you want to enter the country through any other border, you need to get a visa from an embassy/consulate).

For up-to-date information on visas and the like, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).

You’ll find the full list of border crossings where the eVisa is accepted on this page; basically, it includes the international airports and some land borders, such as those with Thailand and India. The most popular land border, with reliable connections, is Myawaddy, which is about 7 hours by bus from Bangkok. Once you’re in the country, you can generally exit through any other border.

Finally, although it isn’t possible to extend the visa, you can stay beyond the 28 days without running into too many problems: you’ll just have to pay $3 plus another $3 for each extra day beyond the 28 days, and $5 a day after 90 days. The “fine” must be paid in cash, and only US dollars are accepted. Keep in mind that once your visa has expired, you might have trouble both getting around and finding accommodation, as you often need to show that you have a valid visa.

Myanmar doesn’t require any mandatory vaccinations, but Hepatitis A and B are recommended.

N.b. Several times throughout the guide you’ll find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the Alltrails app you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.

Yangon

Yangon, formerly known as Rangoon, was the capital of Myanmar until 2005, when it was moved to Naypyidaw; today it’s still the country’s main city from an economic point of view, as well as the most populous, with over five million inhabitants.

What to do and see in Yangon

Although the British influence from the colonial period is definitely noticeable in the downtown buildings, the city isn’t exactly “beautiful.” What makes it interesting, in my opinion, is the mix of cultures that live there: Chinese, Indian and Burmese, and a very “run down” feel, all in a strangely “relaxed” atmosphere considering the size of the city. In fact, I think it’s the only city in Southeast Asia where scooters and motorbikes have been completely banned!

Apart from wandering the streets and the various markets of the city, especially in the Chinatown area (Google Maps), the only real attraction is the Shwedagon Pagoda (Google Maps), a gigantic Buddhist temple considered the most sacred in the country; admission for foreigners is 10,000 kyat. If you want to see a beautiful sunset with the pagoda in the background (as in the photo), I recommend the adjacent park, at this spot.

Shwedagon Pagoda.

Sule Pagoda (Google Maps) is downtown and has practically become a traffic circle; nothing spectacular, but since you’re in the area, it’s worth seeing.

Finally, while walking around the streets of Yangon, I was approached by a really nice monk who convinced me to do an hour or so of “volunteering,” which consists of chatting in English with local students at the “U Aung Hein Kyaw English Class” school, located at this address. Everyone is welcome in the morning, and in return you’re offered breakfast 😉

How to reach Yangon?

Unfortunately, both the airport and long-distance bus station are at least a half-hour taxi ride from the city. If you have a SIM card, the most practical way is probably to use Grab, the official taxi fare from the airport is $7, however, if you want to save money you can take buses 35 and 36 to Sule-bus stop, or 56/57/58 to Latha-bus stop (Chinatown).

Buses to most destinations (Bagan, Kalaw, Mandalay, Inle Lake, Hpa An, Mawlamyine) leave from Aung Mingalar Bus terminal, also known as “Highway Bus Station.” From the airport to the station is 5,000 MMK by cab. From the bus station by cab is about $7, alternatively you can take bus 36 to Sule – bus stop or 56/57/58 to Latha – bus stop (Chinatown).

Instead, buses to the Irrawaddy region (Chaungtha and Ngapali) leave from the Hlaing Thar Yar Bus Terminal.

Finally, there are direct train connections to Bagan and Mandalay. However, they’re old and slow trains. Buses are generally a better option.

Where to sleep in Yangon?

I slept at Hostel9 Yangon, for the price it’s not bad at all, great for those on a budget. On the other hand, if you’re looking for something nicer take a look at HOOD Hostel.

On the streets of Yangon.

Kyaikto and Kinpun (Golden Rock)

In my opinion, it’s absolutely not a “must see,” but if you have time and want to break up the trip to Hpa An, you could spend a night here.

To be clear, the town of Kyaikto is the junction for reaching the so-called “Golden Rock,” while Kinpun is the village at the foot of the mountain, where many people decide to stay and visit the Golden Rock as a day trip.

Once you get off at Kyaikto, you could base yourself there, also visit this gigantic Buddha statue and then continue to the Golden Rock, first taking a pickup truck to Kinpun for 2,000 MMK and then another one to the Golden Rock itself, for another 2,000 MMK.

My alternative was to base myself in the small village of Kinpun, much quieter and “prettier” than Kyaikto. Admission to the Golden Rock for foreigners costs 10,000 MMK; it’s not exactly the most impressive site I’ve ever seen, but the view isn’t bad at all and seeing all those pilgrims is definitely interesting.

Unfortunately, the last truck (an actual truck converted into a bus) to Kinpun leaves the Golden Rock at 18:00, so it isn’t possible to see the sunset from the top. Try to be on time, because I arrived five minutes late and was told I’d have to walk down (it’s about 15 km), if it hadn’t been for a large group of locals, also late, who luckily showed up and kept pestering them until they organized a special truck for us, for 5,000 MMK each!

One last alternative, if budget isn’t an issue and you want to see sunrise or sunset at the Golden Rock, is to sleep at the top of the mountain, a stone’s throw from the rock: there are some really expensive hotels, like this one, but also others that aren’t online, though prices are similar.

The Golden Rock.

How to reach Kyaikto?

As mentioned above, Kyaikto is the crossroads to Kinpun (the village at the base of the mountain) and Golden Rock, which is at the top. The journey from Kyaikto to Hpa An takes about 3 hours and costs 5,500/6,000 MMK, while the trip to Yangon takes 5 hours. I took the bus directly from Kinpun, paying 8,000 MMK.

Where to sleep in Kinpun?

I recommend staying in Kinpun. We took a triple room at Hotel Pann Myo Thu for $35, but we agreed on $30 with breakfast; they also had private rooms for $6 per person, but really small ones. Despite the negative reviews, we really liked it there. A more popular option is Bawga Theiddhi Hotel.

Hpa An

The town was without a doubt one of my favorite stops on my trip to Myanmar: much less touristy than other destinations in the country, it’s really quiet and pleasant, not to mention that the surroundings can literally keep you busy for days.

What to do and see in Hpa An

Technically, many of the places listed below can be reached by bike, but I honestly believe that renting a scooter is much more practical. Tours are also offered that cover basically the same places listed below.

Yathaypyan Cave.

Explore the caves around the city

This is the classic tour of the main caves; inside there are small temples and statues, nothing exceptional, especially if you’ve been traveling around Asia for a while, but absolutely lovely and a nice way to spend the day.

By scooter, you can easily start in the late morning, visiting Kaw Ka Taung Cave (Google Maps); I also recommend climbing to the top of the nearby viewpoint (Google Maps). From here, continue to Saddan Cave (Google Maps), 500 MMK to park the scooter and 1,000 MMK to enter the cave. At the end of the route inside the cave, you could complete a sort of loop by taking a boat and walking a short stretch (if you take a look at Organic Maps, it should be clear what I mean).

Then continue to the iconic Kyauk Ka Lat Pagoda (Google Maps) and finally the last real cave of the day, Yathaypyan Cave (Google Maps), where you have to pay for parking, 500 MMK. There are also quite a few monkeys around, so avoid bringing food with you, and make sure you go all the way to the end of the cave, where there’s a beautiful viewpoint.

To end the day, head to the Bat Cave (Google Maps), where every evening at sunset you can watch a swarm of bats coming out to hunt, really cool! Admission costs 1,000 MMK. Don’t be swayed by the many people you’ll probably see at the top of the stupa: the best place to see the bats is lower down, as marked on Organic Maps.

Kaw Ka Taung Cave.

Hpa Pu

Hpa Pu is a small village on the other side of the river. You can take a boat for 500 MMK at this spot, walk around the village and then hike up to this viewpoint, known as Hpa Pu Hill, where there’s a small stupa that’s popular for sunset (Google Maps).

The last stretch of the trail isn’t in good condition and certainly can’t be considered safe, but if you’re a bit careful, you can easily reach the top. Alternatively, you can also enjoy the sunset from lower down. Especially if you stay late, make sure you agree on a time for the boat back. If you want, you can also reach Hpa Pu overland by taking the long way around.

Sunset from Hpa Pu Hill.

Mount Zwegabin

This is a really popular hike. On the top of Mount Zwegabin (Google Maps) there’s a really atmospheric monastery, with a very spectacular 360-degree view, although in all likelihood there’ll be a lot of haze on the horizon during the dry season.

I went up for sunrise, reaching the base of the mountain by scooter, about 20 minutes from Hpa An. Admission costs 4,000 MMK and, given the 600 meters of elevation gain, you’ve got about an hour to an hour and a half of walking ahead of you, depending on your pace (All Trails). It’s best to do it at sunrise, or at least early in the morning, to avoid the heat of the day.

Once at the top, I was welcomed by a group of local guys who sat me down to eat Mohinga, a traditional Burmese dish, before watching the sunrise. The sunrise itself wasn’t particularly spectacular, but it was a nice experience anyway.

Before going back to town, check out Lumbini Garden (Google Maps) at the foot of Mount Zwegabin: there are hundreds of Buddha statues, really striking!

Sunrise on Mount Zwegabin.

Mount Taung Wine

Mount Taung Wine (Google Maps) is a less “tough” alternative to Mount Zwegabin, much less crowded and, the way I see it, the view is even prettier, or at least very similar. I went at sunset, but sunrise can’t be bad either!

Ride your scooter to this spot; from here, the direction to head in is really clear, and if you need directions, there are a couple of stalls where you can ask. Walking at a brisk pace, it took me about twenty minutes to reach the top, but even taking it easy, it should take you 40 minutes at most. At the top there’s a small stupa with a 360-degree view, and when I was there, there were only five other people; I recommend it more than Mount Zwegabin. Admission is free, but you can leave an offering at the start of the trail if you like.

Finally, don’t leave Hpa An without getting a massage from the blind masseurs at this center. Not only will you support a really interesting project, but you’ll also get what for me was the best massage ever, all for only 7,000 MMK for an hour-and-a-half session.

The peaks of Mount Taung Wine.

How to reach Hpa An?

From Yangon it’s about 7 hours, 8,000 MMK; Mawlamyine, to the south, is about two hours away; Mae Sot, where you can cross the border into Thailand, is about 3 hours by minivan: they might ask for 15,000 MMK, but you can easily get them down to 10,000 MMK.

From Hpa An you can also take a boat down the river to Mawlamyine. I haven’t done it, but apparently it’s a nice trip. There should be a boat every day at 8:15, costing 14,000 MMK.

Where to sleep in Hpa An?

Thanlwin Pyar Guest House is by far the best place to stay for solo travelers. It’s almost always sold out, so it pays to book in advance. I shared a triple room at River View Hotel, really nice staff and good breakfast.

The Bat Cave exit.

Mawlamyine

Mawlamyine, with a population of over three hundred thousand people, is the fourth largest city in Myanmar. Taken by the British during the first campaign of conquest in 1826, it was the colonial capital from 1827 to 1852. This city is also definitely off the classic tourist itinerary but can definitely be an interesting stop, especially for those arriving overland from Thailand.

What to do and see in Mawlamyine

Somewhat like Hpa An, it’s advisable to rent a scooter to explore the city and surroundings.

Win Sein Taw Ya Monastery

Here you can find the largest reclining Buddha in the world, about 180 meters long and 30 high; it’s about 20 km from the city and surrounded by numerous other stupas, statues and religious buildings (Google Maps). Admission is free, but of course you can leave a donation. As already mentioned, renting a scooter is probably the most practical option; there’s no public transportation, but alternatively, a round-trip tuk tuk shouldn’t cost more than 35,000 MMK.

Mahamyatmuni Pagoda and Kyaik Thanlan

These are the two most important pagodas in the city and are centrally located within walking distance of each other. Kyaik Thanlan (Google Maps) is the taller of the two and offers excellent views of the city with a 360-degree panorama, especially recommended at sunset.

Than Phyu Zayat, Setse Beach and Kyaikkhami

Two more day trips you can do from Mawlamyine are to Than Phyu Zayat and Setse Beach, to the south. The latter is a beach that’s not exactly Caribbean, but nice, while the former is a town where you can visit the Death Railway Museum and the war cemetery. If you like, you could continue on to Kyaikkhami to visit the pagoda, passing through the village of Panga, where there are lots of salt pans.

Finally, don’t forget to visit the night market for an authentic experience, and for museum enthusiasts, the Mon Cultural Museum seems to be an interesting visit where information and artifacts belonging to the Mon ethnic group are collected; admission costs $2.

Kyaikkhami Pagoda.

How to reach Mawlamyine?

From Yangon it’s about seven hours, 10,000-15,000 MMK depending on the bus. From Hpa An it’s about two hours, 1,200 MMK for a local bus, 7,500 MMK for an air-conditioned minivan, as mentioned earlier, from Hpa An there are also boat connections, definitely nicer as a trip. Finally, there are direct connections to Mae Sot at the Thai border, about 4 hours, 10,000 MMK for a minivan.

Where to sleep in Mawlamyine?

The Old Moulmein Hostel is basically the only hostel in town. If you’re looking for cheap private rooms check out Pinlon Hostel. 

Kalaw

Located about 50 km from Inle Lake, Kalaw is a small crossroads town for anyone who wants to undertake a one-day or multi-day trek to Inle Lake.

What to do and see in Kalaw

The town, while pretty, doesn’t have much to offer, and most travelers end up spending just one night there, only to organize the trek. If you have a few hours, I recommend taking a stroll around the local market: delicious food at rock-bottom prices, best visited at lunchtime; try the “Hon Toke,” similar to the Mexican tamale.

Thein Taung Monastery, on the other hand, is the perfect place to watch the sunset. Finally, if you want a good massage before you start trekking, check out this center.

Trekking to Inle Lake.

Trekking to Inle Lake

As mentioned earlier, trekking is the main reason people come to Kalaw. There are numerous options offered by various agencies, ranging from a short one-day trek to the longest, three days and two nights, which is the option I chose.

You go through really rural areas, visiting small villages and walking through fields. At night you sleep in really basic homestays. Especially late in the dry season, the landscape is extremely arid, so don’t expect breathtaking views of rice terraces, but all in all it’s a really exciting and enjoyable experience.

I opted for the longest trek available: on the first day, we walked 23 km; on the second day, 27 km; and finally, on the last day, 14 km, arriving at the western shores of the lake. From there, you take a boat to the town of Nyaung Shwe. Most hostels and hotels are located in this town, but as mentioned earlier, there are many options, so I recommend visiting different agencies to find the itinerary that suits you best.

I did the trek with Uncle Sam, paying 45,000 MMK, and I was really happy with it. An even cheaper company, but with larger groups, is Ever Smile, 40,000 MMK. If you want something more exclusive, Ko Min Kalaw is known for its alternative itineraries on less beaten paths; the reviews are fantastic, but prices are much higher.

Local train in one of the villages we visited.

Where to sleep in Kalaw?

At that time I was traveling in a group and we took two private rooms at Richard’s Inn; cheap, clean and a good breakfast included. If you’re traveling solo and looking for a dorm, check out Hotel Kalaw and Parami Hotel. 

How to reach Kalaw?

Basically any bus going to Inle Lake can drop you off in Kalaw, which means there are connections from all major destinations in the country (Yangon, Hpa An, Bagan, Mandalay, and Hsipaw). There are also train connections, but these are much slower than the bus. If you want to fly instead, the nearest airport is called Heho Airport and is about an hour’s drive away.

Inle Lake

Inle Lake is considered the second major attraction in Myanmar, after Bagan. The lake, although extremely touristy and at times really inauthentic, is still a fascinating place. 

Nyaung Shwe is the main lakefront town, which is where most of the hotels and hostels are located. To enter the Inle Lake area you have to pay the entrance fee, the cost is 15,000 MMK, technically the ticket is valid for five days, but once you’re in, it’s unlikely anyone will check your ticket. If you decide to do the trek, just before you get to the lake you’ll find a checkpoint where you can pay the entrance fee, if you arrive by bus there will be someone at the bus station instead.

Sunset on Inle Lake.

What to do and see at Inle Lake

Taking a boat tour is basically the only way to explore the lake. Of course, you can arrange private tours, but in general there are two kinds of “standard” tours on offer: the first includes visits to some souvenir shops and “typical” workshops where the boat captain gets a commission, so it’s cheaper (I paid 9,000 MMK). The second doesn’t include the shop stops and is therefore more expensive.

You can choose between a morning tour to catch the sunrise at the lake and return to Nyaung Shwe by early afternoon, or an afternoon tour departing late morning and returning just after sunset.

Although it may seem counterintuitive, I found it really interesting to visit some of the shops where we stopped, as you get a sort of guided tour of the production workshop before they offer you the products for sale, which you’re absolutely not obliged to buy. I especially liked the one with the lotus fibers that are used to weave clothes, really fascinating!

The lotus flower workshop.

Another stop that’s almost always included in the boat tour is Inthein, also known as “mini Bagan.” There are hundreds of stupas; admission is free, but they ask you for 5,000 MMK to take photos, and I don’t know if that’s legal or not.

Finally, remember that if you decide to photograph the fishermen/actors dressed in traditional clothes and with the typical nets that nobody uses anymore, a tip is pretty much mandatory. As I just said, they’re actors and they make a living from this, not from fishing! Photographing any other fisherman, on the other hand, is free!

To wrap up, in downtown Nyaung Shwe it’s worth visiting the Yadana Man Aung pagoda, though it’s nothing exceptional, as well as the local market, and of course trying a traditional massage; there’s certainly no shortage of options for that: most traditional centers charge only 7,000 MMK for an hour’s massage. I went here and I recommend it.

Inthein.

How to get to Inle Lake?

Reaching Inle Lake, or more specifically Nyaung Shwe, is relatively easy from any other destination in the country. As with Kalaw, the nearest airport is Heho. From there it’s then 45 minutes by taxi, 25,000 MMK. From Yangon by bus it’s about 12 hours, 7-8 hours from Mandalay and Bagan, 8 hours from Hsipaw.

N.b. Some buses drop you off in Shwenyaung, which is about 20 minutes from Nyaung Shwe, so it’s best to confirm the destination before booking. From Shwenyaung there are occasional pickup trucks for 1,000 MMK, or shared taxis for 8,000 to 10,000 MMK.

There are also train connections to Shwenyaung but, as for any other destination, although cheaper, they’re much slower than buses.

Where to sleep at Inle Lake?

Song of Travel in Nyaung Shwe is one of the best hostels I’ve ever stayed in and I can’t recommend it enough, the staff is really caring, spacious and super comfortable dorms, breakfast included that changes daily, free bike rental, and if at the end of the trek you arrive at the Nyaung Shwe pier, they pick you up for free by tuk tuk. It pays to book in advance because it’s often sold out, and if you then decide to extend your stay, they offer a $1 discount. A great alternative is BaoBed Hostel.

Hsipaw

Hsipaw is the main city of Shan State in the northeast of the country.

What to do and see in Hsipaw

The city is an excellent base for trekking in northern Myanmar for one or more days, visiting ethnic villages, waterfalls, tea plantations and hilly landscapes, and, being at an altitude of about 500 meters, it offers a much more pleasant climate than the rest of the country, particularly Mandalay and Bagan.

Hsipaw at sunset.

Take the train from Pyin Oo Lwin to Hsipaw or vice versa

Before talking about things to do in and around Hsipaw, it’s worth mentioning the train ride that many people decide to take. In fact, this is the only train I took during my trip to Myanmar: a scenic stretch during which you cross the Goteik Viaduct, built by the British during the colonial period, a very impressive piece of engineering for those times.

October 2026 update: on August 24, 2025, the Goteik Viaduct was badly damaged by an explosion during the ongoing conflict in the country. According to Myanma Railways, repairs were completed in November 2025 (you can read the news here), but before you go, I recommend checking whether the passenger train on this route is running again.

The entire train route passes through hilly and rural landscapes, offering passengers a unique experience. If you’ve never ridden a train in Myanmar, this is definitely something to try.

The train is very old, and once it reaches its top speed (about 50 km/h), you’ll feel the whole carriage start to bounce. If you have a window seat, you’ll probably end up with a few leaves or small branches between your legs; in fact, the clearing along the sides of the tracks leaves a bit to be desired, or rather, it almost seems as if the train itself takes care of cutting and trimming the grass around the tracks.

While the train connects Mandalay directly to Hsipaw, I recommend boarding or disembarking at Pyin Oo Lwin, depending on your direction. By continuing by road instead of the tracks, you’ll save at least three hours of travel time.

The train ride on the Hsipaw – Pyin Oo Lwin route costs 2,750 MMK in first class and 550 MMK in ordinary class; obviously, I recommend the window side. It leaves Hsipaw at 9:45, with tickets on sale from 8:45; especially in high season, the window side of first class sells out very quickly (Google Maps).

From Pyin Oo Lwin station (Google Maps), there are pickup services to downtown Mandalay for 2,000 MMK. We managed to persuade the driver to take us directly to the hostel; otherwise, the official stop is in front of the train station. For the reverse trip, you can take a pickup from this point or a shared taxi for about 5,000 MMK. The train leaves Mandalay at 4:00 in the morning and arrives in Pyin Oo Lwin at 7:52.

I personally didn’t stay, but apparently Pyin Oo Lwin is a nice town to spend a couple of days in. I met a Korean guy who recommended it, along with the waterfalls that are south of downtown.

Goteik Viaduct.

Trekking around Hsipaw

Finally, let’s talk about Hsipaw. In town there are lots of trekking agencies and lots of options; generally speaking, they range from one-day treks to two-day, one-night treks, and finally three-day, two-night ones. Here too, as with the trek to Inle Lake, don’t expect breathtaking scenery: the experience is more about visiting the villages.

I had received several recommendations to trek with a guide named Kham Lu (you can contact him on WhatsApp at +95 9250 693 985, and he has fantastic reviews). Unfortunately, I’d have been the only customer, and the tour would have been costly. So, instead, I decided to join a group of travelers I met on the minivan to Hsipaw, who had booked with Mr. Bike. I paid 35,000 MMK for the two-day, one-night trek. We were treated really well and I have no complaints about the tour, but it certainly wasn’t an unforgettable experience.

N.b. You can’t trek in the area without a guide. Some areas are still mined to this day, and following an accident during which a young German man lost his life, venturing out alone is absolutely prohibited.

Trekking in Hsipaw.

Visit the Shan Palace

Rather than a palace, it’s a house located northeast of the center, home of the royal family that ruled the Shan people, whose king “mysteriously” disappeared during the army coup in 1962.

Today the residence is looked after by his nephew and his wife, who bravely tells the history of the region over the last 50 years every day, going into detail about what happened to her family. A story that’s obviously awkward for the regime.

Unfortunately, during my stay in Hsipaw the princess wasn’t in town, but as a rule she almost always is, and you can hear the story firsthand roughly between 15:00 and 18:00. Alternatively, you can read the book she wrote herself, titled: “Twilight over Burma: My Life as a Shan Princess.”

To wrap up, there are at least a couple of waterfalls you can reach on your own around the town: Nam Tuk (Google Maps) and Nam Hu Nwe (Google Maps). There’s a viewpoint (Google Maps) where you can watch a beautiful sunset over the town, and finally you can walk to Little Bagan (Google Maps), where there are some nice temples and, before heading back to town, enjoy a delicious meal at Mrs. Popcorn Garden.

Visiting a local school in one of the villages along the trek.

How to reach Hsipaw?

As mentioned above, many people decide to reach or leave the town by train. If you’re coming from the south, personally I think the ideal is to take a minivan from Nyaung Shwe, 18,000 MMK, about 8 hours and then take the train to Mandalay, or do the opposite if you’re coming from the north.

Where to sleep in Hsipaw?

I shared a double room at Lily Guest House for a couple of days and I recommend it. Great value for money, with a buffet breakfast. I spent the first night at Yee Shin Guesthouse instead, slightly cheaper but nothing special, and the breakfast wasn’t as good. When I got back from the trek, since I couldn’t share a room anymore, I moved to Nam Khae Mao Guest House, only 5,000 MMK for a single room; it’s used only by locals, but I guarantee it’s not bad at all… if you can live without wifi!

Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.

Mandalay

Mandalay is the second-largest city in Myanmar and undoubtedly the most significant city in northern Myanmar. Even though a lot of people snub it, I think there are more than a few attractions to keep you busy for at least a couple of days.

What to do and see in Mandalay

The city is built around the royal palace, which I didn’t personally visit; the reviews about it are somewhat mixed between those who say it’s absolutely a must see and others who think it’s a sham because the original palace was destroyed during the World War II bombings and what you admire now is merely a replica built in the 1990s. It’s up to you. Admission is included in the combo ticket that also allows access to other sites and costs 10,000 MMK. Bring your passport.

Kuthodaw Pagoda.

Kuthodaw Pagoda, Sandar Mu Ni Pagoda and Kyauktawgyi Paya

Kuthodaw Pagoda (Google Maps), Sandar Mu Ni Pagoda (Google Maps) and Kyauktawgyi Paya (Google Maps) are really close to each other at the foot of Mandalay Hill, so you can easily visit them within a couple of hours, maybe before climbing the hill to watch the sunset.

Kuthodaw Pagoda is home to what is considered the world’s largest book, consisting of hundreds of stone slabs (730 to be exact) that are located inside the stupas surrounding the main pagoda and collect the Buddha’s teachings in the Pali language. Technically you need a combo ticket to enter but checks are rare and I entered without a ticket.

Admission to Sandar Mu Ni Pagoda and Kyauktawgyi Paya is free. The former is especially impressive when viewed from above (Mandalay Hill) while the latter has a giant Buddha statue.

If you purchased the combo ticket you can also visit the nearby Shwenandaw Monastery, built entirely of wood. Here you can admire its famous carvings. If you’re looking for a less touristy alternative with free admission, check out Shwe In Bin Monastery.

Sandar Mu Ni Pagoda.

Mandalay Hill

This hill overlooking the city (Google Maps) is a great way to spend a couple of hours and, as I just said, it’s the ideal place to watch the sunset. The top is reached by a road, but I strongly recommend walking from the base; the steps go through several temples before reaching the main pagoda at the top of the hill, for which there is an entrance fee of 1,000 MMK.

Honestly, the view doesn’t change much, and there are several spots where you can stop and admire the view without necessarily reaching the top and paying admission. By the way, one of the pagodas below is full of monks, of various ages, who want to practice their English, so if you feel like chatting, learning about their culture or simply doing a good deed, you can stop here. If I’m not mistaken, it’s the second- or third-to-last pagoda before the top.

View from Mandalay Hill.

U Bein Bridge

This iconic bridge, about 1.2 kilometers long, is the longest teak bridge in the world (Google Maps). Maybe it’s because the place is extremely photogenic, but spending an hour watching the locals cross the bridge and the fishermen nearby was incredibly atmospheric.

If you decide to rent a scooter for the whole day, you can easily combine the visit with other sites in the area and also with a visit to Mingun, on the other side of the river. I wanted to go at sunrise, so I took a Grab scooter, 5,000 MMK; the driver offered to wait for an hour and then took me back for another 5,000 MMK. If you don’t necessarily want to go at sunrise, you shouldn’t have any trouble finding someone to share a taxi with and paying even less, maybe also visiting the nearby Mahagandayon Monastery, built in 1914. It’s the largest Buddhist monastery in Myanmar; ideally, visit it before 10:30 so you can watch the solemn rituals.

U Bein Bridge.

Mingun

Mingun is on the other side of the river and is a great day trip that can be done by ferry, or, as mentioned earlier, if you decide to rent a scooter you can combine it with a visit to the U Bein Bridge and a few other sites.

Once you arrive, you’re asked to pay an entrance fee to the Mingun archaeological area, which costs 5,000 MMK. The ferry costs 5,000 MMK, leaves at 9:00 from this spot (Google Maps) and comes back at 13:00.

In Mingun everything there is to see is within a few kilometers. The main sites are: Mingun Pahtodawgyi, also known as the unfinished pagoda, is described by some as the largest pile of bricks in the world; the Mingun Giant Bell; and finally Mya Thein Tan Pagoda, also known as the “White Pagoda” undoubtedly the most impressive of the three sites.

The White Pagoda in Mingun.

How to reach Mandalay?

Mandalay International Airport is the newest and most modern airport in the country, located about 45 km south of the city, a private taxi should cost about 15,000 MMK while shared taxis and minivans cost 4,000 MMK. 

There are at least three bus stations, each offering connections to a different region of the country. Considering that virtually all hostels and agencies that sell tickets include “pick up” at the hostel/hotel, I wouldn’t worry too much. Generally speaking, there are frequent connections to all major tourist destinations.

Where to sleep in Mandalay?

I stayed at Aplus Hostel, it’s a new hostel that offers great value for money, the rooftop terrace is fantastic, and so is the wifi, the only complaint I have is the size of the dorms: a bit too small! Mansion Hostel is located not far away, a friend stayed there and it didn’t look bad at all.

Bagan

Here we finally come to the reason why so many people visit Myanmar each year. Located on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River, Bagan boasts the largest and most densely concentrated collection of Buddhist temples, pagodas, and stupas in the world, many of which date back to the 11th and 12th centuries.

During its golden age, it’s estimated that there were over 13,000 structures including temples and stupas. Today about 2,200 are left, but I can assure you the city is still absolutely fascinating. In 2019, Bagan was finally added to the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Sunset in Bagan.

N.b. Admission to the archaeological area costs 25,000 MMK, and the ticket is valid for five days. If you arrive by taxi from the bus station or the airport, the driver will stop at the checkpoint so you can buy the pass. Unlike at Inle Lake, here tickets do get checked, especially at the entrances to the artificial hills built for watching sunrise and sunset, since for a few years now it hasn’t been possible to climb to the top of the temples as people used to.

What to do and see in Bagan

If you have even a bit of experience behind the wheel, I highly recommend renting “e-bikes” or electric scooters. They cost only 7,000 MMK a day and let you go anywhere. I also suggest focusing your explorations in the city during the early morning or late afternoon, as the middle of the day is extremely hot.

Sunrise, sunset and temples

It’s highly likely that after seeing temples and stupas for even just one full day, you’ll have had enough, especially if you’ve been traveling around this part of the world for a while. That’s why below I list the ones considered “must sees,” which can easily be visited in a single day: Shwezigon Pagoda (Google Maps), Ananda Temple (Google Maps), Shwegugyi Phaya (Google Maps), Thatbyinnyu Temple (Google Maps), Sulamani Temple (Google Maps), Dhammayangyi Temple (Google Maps), Shwesandaw Phaya (Google Maps) and the nearby giant reclining Buddha (Google Maps), and finally this temple (Google Maps) that the caretaker can open for you.

Entrance to Shwezigon Pagoda.

As for viewpoints for sunrise and sunset, I literally spent five days looking for the best ones. For sunrise, I recommend this spot (Google Maps), practically unknown to the crowds, which gives you a great view of Shwesandaw Phaya, Dhammayangyi Temple and the hot air balloons. A good alternative is Angel’s sunrise hill (Google Maps).

As for sunset, Sulamani Sunset hill (Google Maps) isn’t bad, but if you want to try your luck, at this spot (Google Maps) I found a local with a “customer”: with a ladder leaning against a temple, he was giving access to the roof. Obviously this isn’t legal, and I imagine he isn’t there every day, but I enjoyed a beautiful sunset.

To wrap up, it’s extremely likely you’ll be approached by locals who know some “secret viewpoints” for watching sunrise or sunset; often they’re illegal spots, like the one I just described, while other times they’re little-known spots that really do have great views. Ask them to show you some photos and then think it over for yourself; don’t promise to buy paintings in exchange for the tip, because it could cost you dearly: agree on a cash price instead.

Sunrise in Bagan.

Hot air balloon ride

This is a really expensive but undoubtedly unique experience, costing around $300 for a one-hour flight. I personally couldn’t justify that cost but a girl I was traveling with at the time decided to treat herself and in her opinion it was absolutely worth it. 

$300 is two weeks of your travel budget; obviously, it’s an entirely personal choice. FYI, the hot air balloons fly only at sunrise during the dry season, roughly from November to April. Generally speaking, you can easily book even the day before.

Mount Popa

At an altitude of 1,500 meters, about 60 kilometers from Bagan, Mt. Popa (Google Maps) is an extinct volcano on top of which is a fascinating monastery; it’s a fairly popular destination because it can be visited in a day from Bagan. 

To reach the top, you have to climb a good 777 steps. Fortunately, most of the trail is in the shade, and there are numerous places along the way that sell food and drinks. There are also lots of monkeys, which is why it’s best not to bring food. Once you reach the top, weather permitting, the view is excellent and you can easily see the Irrawaddy River in the distance.

Mount Popa.

How to reach Bagan?

The connections from Mandalay are frequent, it’s about 5 hours and the cost of 9,000 MMK includes pickup from your hostel/hotel. From Mandalay if you want you can also go down to Bagan by ferry, theoretically there’s a daily departure at 7:00, 8-9 hours and about $40; there’s also a slow boat used by locals that costs about $10 but takes up to 17 hours.

There are also direct buses from Yangon, about 11,000 to 22,000 MMK depending on the bus chosen, 9-10 hours. From Inle Lake it’s 8-10 hours, 15,000 – 25,000 MMK. In any case, all long-distance buses arrive at the station which is about 7 km outside of town where the taxi mafia won’t let you board the pickups used by locals going downtown. Grab doesn’t work and the official fare is 8,000 MMK, although you’ll probably be asked for much more at first.

It’s also possible to reach the city by train, but travel time increases considerably. Finally, Bagan has a small airport that offers domestic flights to the country’s major cities.

Where to sleep in Bagan?

The two main areas to stay in are Nyaung-U and New Bagan, and honestly it doesn’t make any difference: both are basically the same distance from the ruins. If you’re looking for an inexpensive room with a great breakfast included, I strongly recommend Shwe Nadi Guest House. They also have a dorm and I recommend booking in advance because they often sell out.

If, on the other hand, you want a more social atmosphere, then check out BaoBed Hostel, OstelloBello and OstelloBello Pool; all three are great hostels, though not exactly cheap.

Beaches in Myanmar

The following destinations are all places I haven’t personally visited but are ideal for anyone looking to spend a few days at the beach.

Ngapali

This is probably the most popular beach destination of all, especially among locals. The main beach isn’t exactly “backpacker friendly”: there are lots of resorts and it feels like a luxury destination, but apparently there’s no shortage of ways to visit it without spending a fortune.

For an overview of the destination, possible activities, where to stay, etc., etc., I recommend taking a look at this post.

A beach in Ngapali.

Ngwe Saung and Chaungtha

These are two destinations in the south of the country that have become popular in recent years. Apparently, the beach isn’t as nice as in Ngapali, but if you’re looking for a more off-the-beaten-path alternative to spend a few days at the beach in Myanmar, I recommend checking out these two destinations. Here you can find a guide.

A pagoda in Chaungtha.

Mergui Archipelago

This archipelago, in the far south of the country bordering Thailand, offers some of the world’s best diving sites. There are hundreds of idyllic islands (over eight hundred!) that unfortunately to date, as far as I know, don’t offer many options for budget travelers. In fact, there seem to be only a few resorts from which excursions can then be arranged. A popular alternative, especially for divers, is liveaboards.   

Suggested itineraries in Myanmar

To visit all the places described would take about two months. Considering that the visa lasts only 28 days, and many people don’t have that much time anyway, below I list some one- or multi-week itineraries that include major tourist destinations. These can serve as a starting point for planning an itinerary based on personal interests and the information shared so far:

One-week itinerary in Myanmar

With only one week available I personally recommend focusing on Bagan, Mandalay and Inle Lake. Should you arrive in Yangon then it’s worth spending a day in the city, otherwise I recommend saving time and staying in the north of the country by flying directly to Mandalay.

Yangon (1 night)

Day 1:

Explore the city, visit the Shwedagon Pagoda then take the overnight bus to Bagan, or a flight the next day.

Bagan (2 nights)

Day 2:

Visit the temples, enjoy the sunset.

Day 3:

Hot air balloon ride (if you can afford it!) otherwise explore the city, don’t miss the sunrise.

Inle Lake (2 nights)

Day 4:

Transfer to Inle Lake.

Day 5:

Lake tour.

Mandalay (1 night)

Day 6:

Inle Lake – Mandalay transfer. Sunset from Mandalay Hill.

Day 7:

If you’ve arrived in Mandalay, then technically you have an extra day that I’d recommend spending among the various pagodas in the city, Mingun or whatever else is of interest to you. In case you’ve arrived in Yangon, and you have a flight back from Yangon, then I doubt you’ll have time to do all that.

10-day itinerary in Myanmar

With ten days available my advice is to follow the itinerary just described, in which case arriving in Yangon might be “preferable” so as to spend a day or two there before following the week-long itinerary and staying slightly longer in Mandalay at the end of the trip.

Two-week itinerary in Myanmar

With fifteen days available I’d personally add only one stop, Hpa An and a nice activity like trekking to Inle Lake, following the itinerary described below:

Yangon (1 night)

Day 1:

Explore the city, visit the Shwedagon Pagoda.

Hpa An (3 nights)

Day 2:

Transfer to Hpa An. Mount Taung Wine at sunset.

Day 3:

Explore caves around the city as described in the dedicated section.

Day 4:

Mount Zwegabin at sunrise. Overnight bus to Kalaw.

Kalaw (1 night)

Day 5:

Book your trek for the next day, relax and visit the local market.

Inle Lake (4 nights)

Day 6:

First day of the trek.

Day 7:

Second day of the trek.

Day 8:

Third day of the trek. Arrival at Inle Lake.

Day 9:

Inle Lake tour.

Bagan (2 nights)

Day 10:

Transfer to Bagan. Enjoy the sunset.

Day 11:

Hot air balloon ride (if you can afford it!) otherwise explore the city, don’t miss the sunrise.

Mandalay (2 nights)

Day 12:

Bagan – Mandalay transfer. Sunset from Mandalay Hill.

Day 13:

Visit the city’s various pagodas, Mingun or whatever is of interest to you.

Day 14:

Return to Yangon.

Three-week itinerary in Myanmar

Twenty days is starting to be a good stretch of time; my advice is to follow the itinerary just described, maybe spending a few extra days in Bagan and adding a stop, which could be Hsipaw or a beach destination.

Four-week itinerary in Myanmar

This is technically the maximum stay allowed under the tourist visa, although as mentioned at the beginning of this guide, overstay isn’t punished severely so you could easily spend a few more days without running into hefty fines.

In any case, with a month available you should be able to cover all the destinations described in the guide, except for those described in the “Beaches in Myanmar” section, for which you’d most likely have to make some compromises.

How to get around Myanmar

While researching my trip to Myanmar, I frequently read that the infrastructure was poor, the roads were in bad condition, and travel times were very long. The reality is that in recent years the situation has improved enormously, and the main routes connecting major tourist destinations are now in good condition.

Exceptions include the roads to the country’s west coast and the far south toward the Thai border. It’s also important to remember that during the rainy season, road conditions can deteriorate drastically.

Buses in Myanmar

For those on a tight budget, buses are undoubtedly the best option. There are various types, and for long routes, “VIP” buses are often available. These buses have three seats per row instead of four, offering plenty of space and a good level of comfort.

Especially on night buses, I strongly recommend bringing a sweatshirt. Although a blanket is almost always provided, the air conditioning is set to arctic temperatures. Virtually every place I stayed at had a complete list of possible destinations, schedules, and bus prices. Booking directly with the company can save some money, but often the bus station is outside the city. Therefore, booking through your accommodation is much more convenient as “pick up” at the hostel/hotel is often included.

Another means of transportation used extensively by locals for short and medium distances is old Toyota pickups converted into “minibuses,” with benches in the back. They’re extremely cheap and often the only form of public transportation in remote parts of the country. They generally leave only when full or nearly full. One popular route for backpackers aboard these pickups is from Mandalay to Pyin Oo Lwin, a real adventure.

A local pickup in Myanmar.

Trains in Myanmar

Despite the country’s extensive rail network, trains aren’t exactly a practical way to get around, let alone a fast one. The infrastructure dates back to colonial times and has seen virtually no investment over the years. Compared to buses, travel times from point A to point B are often at least twice as long, except for the Yangon – Mandalay line, where buses are still faster anyway.

That said, taking a train in Myanmar at least once is definitely a worthwhile experience. As described in this guide, I took the train from Mandalay to Hsipaw; another popular route is the Yangon Circular Train described in this post.

Domestic flights in Myanmar

If budget isn’t an issue, domestic flights are by far the most practical and quickest way to get around the country, especially between the north, the south and possibly the west coast. The state-owned Myanmar National Airlines apparently has a relatively poor safety record and is best avoided if possible.

Some private companies that operate domestic flights are: AirMandalay, Airmyp, Golden Myanmar Airways and Air KBZ.

Taxis in Myanmar

In my personal experience, taxi drivers are generally much more honest than in the rest of Southeast Asia, but it’s still worth haggling over the price before getting in, and if you have a SIM card, in big cities Grab is not only more practical but often cheaper too.

Backpacking Myanmar: costs

You’ll be happy to know that a trip to Myanmar costs very little. Of all the countries I’ve visited, I think it’s objectively one of the cheapest. As I said at the beginning of this guide, prices for accommodation and various activities are often quoted in US dollars, which are therefore widely accepted as a form of payment.

Cost of accommodation in Myanmar

Accommodation is probably the only anomaly when it comes to prices. Since the country only opened up recently, some destinations still don’t have many hostels/hotels, competition is low and, as a result, prices are “high.” Things are changing fast, though, and I imagine that in a few years prices will drop drastically.

Even now, accommodation is more than affordable, with dorm prices generally ranging between $5-10 and private rooms in guesthouses between $10-20. Often in Myanmar, sharing a double room is cheaper than two beds in a hostel. Almost all accommodations in the country include breakfast in the price.

Cost of transportation in Myanmar

The cost of transportation is really low, long-distance buses rarely cost more than two euros per hour in the “VIP” version, regular ones cost a good 30% less on average, the so-called “pickups” are extremely cheap, 70 km from Pyin Oo Lwin to Mandalay cost a little more than one euro. For taxis, as already mentioned, I recommend using Grab where present.

A typical dish in Myanmar.

Cost of food in Myanmar

Street food, or food served in restaurants, is among the cheapest I’ve ever encountered. A noodle soup can cost 500 MMK, and even a more substantial meal is unlikely to cost more than 2,000 MMK. In more touristy places or less local sit-down restaurants, you can still eat for about three dollars.

Other costs (ATM withdrawals and SIM cards)

Entrance fees to monuments are often charged for foreigners and are free for locals, but they remain reasonably priced. For example, Shwedagon Pagoda costs 10,000 MMK, Inle Lake 15,000 MMK, and Bagan 25,000 MMK.

If you pay by card, you incur a 3% fee, so it’s better to pay in cash. Withdrawing cash isn’t cheap, though. The best options are CB Bank, which allows a maximum withdrawal of 300,000 MMK at a cost of 6,500 MMK, and AYA Bank, which allows withdrawals of 400,000 MMK at the same cost. From personal experience, the amount you can withdraw can vary from ATM to ATM, and international cards aren’t always accepted.

In addition to the 6,500 MMK charged by the local bank, any fees your own bank charges must be added. For this reason, I encourage you to check out my article on the best cards for traveling.

Finally, for those who want a data SIM, I recommend Telenor, which seems to have the best nationwide coverage. There are various data packages available, and I paid 7,500 MMK for six gigs.

If you have a phone that supports eSIMs and want the convenience of being online right away without having to buy a local SIM, I recommend using a service like the ones offered by Airalo and Ubigi. If you go for this option, though, there are at least a couple of things to consider. First of all, with rare exceptions, data costs much more than it would with a local SIM; secondly, their local partner isn’t always the one with the best coverage in the country.

Basically, I think most travelers would be better off buying a local SIM (or maybe trying to buy a local provider’s eSIM), but I encourage you to think it over for yourself, as there’s no shortage of exceptions. For example, when I visited Japan, the plan offered by Ubigi was cheaper than any local SIM I could buy without proving I was a resident.

Planning a trip to Myanmar? Check out these posts:

Which travel backpack to choose

What to bring on your trip

Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!

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