Laos Travel Guide

Laos, officially known as the Lao People’s Democratic Republic (Lao PDR), is one of the least explored and snubbed countries in all of Southeast Asia.

Despite being the only landlocked country in the region, and lacking globally renowned attractions like Myanmar’s Bagan or Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, this country still boasts hidden gems well worth discovering.

I spent six weeks backpacking north to south. In this guide you will find many useful tips and information to help you better plan your trip.

Quick menu

Children in a village in northern Laos.

When to visit Laos

Laos, like all other countries in the region, has two distinct seasons: the dry season and the rainy season. In general, the best time to visit Laos corresponds with the dry season that runs roughly from November to April, with the months of November, December, and January being considered the absolute best, given the absence of rainfall and the low temperatures that are undoubtedly the most pleasant of the year. Obviously this period corresponds with the very high season reflecting on prices, especially of accommodation and some activities.

Starting in March, temperatures and humidity rise considerably until peaking around May, just before the rains. These months, while not the most pleasant, still remain a good time to visit the country.

The rainy season, while not ideal, has considerable advantages. The landscape literally turns green, the rice fields finally take on color, and the beautiful waterfalls are in full swing. The almost daily rains tend to be concentrated within a few hours, especially during the early months of the wet season, while they are much more frequent as the season progresses, peaking in August.

During the peak of the rains, some roads may be impassable making overland travel difficult. Many activities like hiking and tubing are practically out of the question. September and October can be good months, there is indeed a decrease in rainfall and a drop in temperatures until the transition to the dry season in November.

Luang Prabang.

Documents and vaccinations for entering Laos

Since the summer of 2019, it has been possible to apply online, on the official government website, for the so-called “Evisa.” It is currently only accepted at the airports in Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Pakse plus the two land borders with Thailand in Vientiane and Savannakhet (Friendship Bridge I and Friendship Bridge II). The cost is $50 which is strangely higher than the visa on arrival. I recommend the second option.

The 30-day visa on arrival can be obtained at all international border crossings, requires a cash payment of $35 (make sure the bills are in perfect condition) and a passport-size photo. Some borders also charge $1 over the weekend to process the application, whether this is legitimate or not remains a mystery.

The visa can be extended by 30 days twice at a cost of 20,000 KIP per day (about 2€) at any immigration office. Basically you can decide how many days you want to extend your visa, up to a maximum of 30 days, and for each day the cost is 20,000 KIP. If you exceed the duration of your visa, the so-called “overstay” triggers a fine of $10 per day. If you are near the Thai border, making a visa run is more cost-effective than renewal from a financial point of view and is perfectly acceptable.

Laos does not require any mandatory vaccinations but Hepatitis A and B are recommended.

Nong Khiaw.

What to do and see in Laos

In this guide, prices are often expressed in the local currency. The official Laos currency is called “Lao Kip” shortened to “KIP.”

The exchange rate, at the time of publishing this article, is €1 = 23,500 KIP. For the current exchange rate, I suggest you look at this page.

Since so many enter Laos from northern Thailand, the destinations described, for convenience, will follow the order from north to south.

N.b. Several times throughout the guide you will find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the Alltrails app you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.

Huay Xai

On the banks of the Mekong on the border with Thailand, the city is for many a simple crossroads to other destinations in the country.

What to do and see in Huay Xai

The town itself does not have much to offer. As mentioned above, most people spend only one night there before taking the slow boat to Luang Prabang. If you are really looking for something to keep you busy, you can visit the temple from which you can see a beautiful sunset and the fort, the latter not exactly impressive. Or you can simply spend the day at one of the many bars and restaurants along the river.

Huay Xai Temple.

Slow boat to Luang Prabang

While the slow boat to Luang Prabang is the most popular choice for travelers in Huay Xai, I personally opted for a different route, traveling by road to Luang Namtha.

The slow boat journey takes two days, with an overnight stop in Pakbeng. You spend approximately seven hours per day on the boat, opinions on the experience vary widely. Some find it extremely pleasant, while others claim to have grown weary after just the first hour. However, everyone agrees on one thing: try to sit as far away from the engine as possible!

The slow boat ticket can be purchased almost anywhere in the city. The price without accommodation in Pakbeng should be about 300,000 KIP.

The quicker and cheaper alternative, but without the experience of navigating along the Mekong, is to take the night bus, or the daytime minivan, at a cost of 180,000 KIP, it is about ten hours of travel time.

Finally, for those on a budget, there are luxury cruises that cover the route and include a variety of activities along the way.

Gibbon Experience.

Gibbon Experience

This is the second reason why many people end up in Huay Xai, and this time I speak from personal experience, having personally participated in the three-day tour. This is a beautiful conservation project that started in 1996 and culminated in the establishment of Nam Khan National Park in 2008. The whole project to date employs about 130 local people.

Going into detail, what is offered is a two- or three-day jungle experience within the national park. Here you’ll find the world’s tallest tree houses, where you can spend the night, and a network of zip lines over 15 kilometers long that allow travel within the jungle.

As the project’s name suggests, the possibility of seeing gibbons is very real. I personally saw a group and hearing their call is truly amazing! The only downside to this incredible experience is the price, roughly €300 for three days and two nights, or €200 for two days and one night.

While everything is included and the food and guides are excellent, if you’re on a tight budget, it’s probably best to use this money to extend your trip by a few weeks.

However, if you can afford it, I highly recommend the Gibbon Experience: it’s not only a unique and unforgettable adventure, but you also support a vital conservation project.

There are three tour options. If you want to maximize your chance of seeing gibbons or prefer less walking, choose the “classic” tour. Anyway, you can find all the relevant information on the official website.

Gibbon Experiance.

Where to sleep in Huay Xai?

If you are traveling alone I strongly recommend Little Hostel, a really nice and clean hostel in the center of town, extremely friendly and helpful staff. It should definitely be booked in advance as they only have eight beds. Alternatively there are numerous guest houses that offer private rooms at modest prices. A friend slept at Oudom Phone Guesthouse 2 and he said it was quite good.

How to reach Huay Xai?

If you are coming from Thailand, there is a direct bus that leaves from Chiang Rai Terminal 2 every day at 10:00 am for 225 THB. It will wait for you at both immigration offices and drop you off at Huay Xai bus station. A cheaper alternative is to take the bus from Terminal 1 in Chiang Rai directly to the border, from there there should be a shuttle service between the two immigration offices and then there are tuk tuks that take you directly to Huay Xai. It is not necessary to get rid of all the baths before leaving Thailand. The exchange in Huay Xai is very good.

To Luang Prabang there are at least three buses per day, two during the day and one at night while to Luang Namtha, in the north, there are two daily departures, in the morning at 9:00 am and then at 12:30 pm. There is only one bus heading to Vientiane.

Luang Namtha

This town in northern Laos, near the border with China, is the ideal base for those who want to visit nearby Nam Ha National Park, for those arriving or continuing their journey to China, or simply looking for an alternative to slow boating or the long bus ride to Luang Prabang.

What to do and see in Luang Namtha

There are at least a couple of traditional saunas in town, which are particularly popular in the north of the country. Admission costs only 15,000 KIP, any massage is charged separately. Other than that, I recommend checking out both the morning market and the night market.

Nam Ha National Park.

Trekking and rafting in Nam Ha National Park

There are at least five or six agencies along the main road downtown, each offering a variety of tours: one-day treks or up to five days with overnight stays in ethnic villages, or jungle camps on so-called “survival tours,” a mixture of trekking and rafting. The offerings are really varied as are the prices.

I ended up doing a two-day trek with an overnight stay in an ethnic village with Into The Wild company paying $65. It was the only company to have other participants to share the cost with for the next day, the tour was nice but absolutely nothing exceptional, if I went back I would have opted for the Discovering Laos agency which has phenomenal reviews, although more expensive.

My two biggest complaints are that we slept in a facility on the edge of the village instead of a homestay, and our guide cooked our meals instead of participating in a traditional cooking class, as offered by other companies.

If you are on a tight budget, my advice is to walk around and see which agencies have reservations for the next few days (they all have a boards outside the office with any reservations) so you can lower the cost of the tour. However, remember to check out the reviews on tripadvisor/google maps.

In conclusion, given the time (March) the river level was too low for kayaking but at the beginning of the dry season it should be a really fun activity.

The village where we spent the night during the trek.

Muang Sing

Muang Sing, the last town before the Chinese border, may not be a must-see destination, but renting a scooter and riding the 60 kilometers between Muang Sing and Luang Namtha is a nice way to spend a day. The scenic route winds through rural villages and lush jungle, with minimal traffic and well-maintained roads. You can have lunch in Muang Sing and then return to town in the afternoon. I also recommend stopping at the Pha Yueang Waterfall, it is reached at the end of a short trail, not exactly impressive but definitely pretty and a nice way to stretch your legs, the entrance technically costs 10,000 KIP but during my visit there was no one there to check and I got in for free. I rented a semi automatic scooter from this store, a passport is required as a deposit.

Pha Yueang Waterfall.

How to reach Luang Namtha?

The bus station is about 10 km south of the city. The fixed price of tuk tuk is 20,000 KIP. From here there are direct connections to Luang Prabang about 8 hours, Nong Khiaw about 6 hours, and Huay Xai about 4 hours. There are also several departures to the border with China and air connections to and from the capital Vientiane. The new Nateuy Train Station, which connects to Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng, and Vientiane, is easily accessible. Shared minivans to and from Luang Namtha should cost approximately 50,000 KIP. You can purchase train tickets online via 12go.

Where to sleep in Luang Namtha?

If you are looking for the absolute cheapest, Manychan Guesthouse seems to be the only option with a dormitory. I slept at Adounsiri Guesthouse, away from the main road, spacious and clean room. I also looked at Thoulasith Guesthouse, a great option in the center of town. On the other hand, if you are looking for a solution that is still cheap but in a really nice setting outside the center on the banks of the river take a look at Taidam Guesthouse.

Nong Khiaw

Nong Khiaw is not part of the classic itinerary in Laos but being only three hours from Luang Prabang is becoming particularly popular. It is a small town on the banks of the Nam Ou River, surrounded by limestone mountains with a landscape similar to Vang Vieng but with a distinctly more rural and relaxed atmosphere.

Nong Khiaw.

What to do and see in Nong Khiaw

While Nong Khiaw is a peaceful place where one could easily spend a couple of days relaxing in a riverside bungalow, there are also numerous excursions and activities available in and around the town.

The viewpoints

There are at least three really cool viewpoints around town. Phadeng Peak, can be reached in about 40 to 60 minutes depending on the pace, great views at both sunrise and sunset, if you want you can camp on the summit, the trail is easy to follow and well maintained, admission costs 20,000 KIP. All Trails.

The second viewpoint I went up is Nang None Mountain, where there are actually two distinct viewpoints: the first one slightly lower while the second one is higher up and in my opinion offers a better view; admission costs 15,000 KIP.

Of the two just mentioned, Phadeng is the prettiest. There is finally a third and last viewpoint, which I did not visit though but judging from the photos it does not look bad at all, it was opened recently so it is not as popular as the other two but it seems by far the highest, so I imagine it takes well over an hour to climb, the beginning of the trail should be this one, the entrance costs 20,000 KIP. All Trails.

In all cases it is advisable to bring a headlamp, especially if you decide to go up for sunset.

Phadeng Peak Nong Khiaw.

Pha Kuang Cave

The cave is located slightly outside of town but can easily be reached on foot, reviews are somewhat mixed but I assure you that if you like exploration it is absolutely worth it. Admission costs 10,000 KIP and, in case you don’t have one, a headlamp is provided.

This is a cave used during the war as a bomb shelter and the tunnels are extremely narrow in places, you literally have to crawl on the ground to make your way through the various chambers, extremely fun and adventurous as far as I’m concerned but if you’re not ready to get dirty, I would probably avoid it.

Another cave near the town is Pha Tok Cave, I have not personally been there but according to the reviews it doesn’t look like much.

To conclude, among the various activities offered in Nong Khiaw are kayaking along the river, visiting ethnic villages that you could do on your own by renting a scooter, zip lining, and finally a fairly popular trek offered by Tiger Trails called “100 Waterfalls” which you can read about on tripadvisor.

Pha Kuang Cave.

Where to sleep in Nong Khiaw?

I slept at Khamphan Guesthouse Riverview where, after bargaining, I was able to get a cheap private room. I was told that Delilahs has a good dormitory that is not too expensive. In any case there are several guesthouses and finding a good option should not be a problem.

How to reach Nong Khiaw?

From Luang Prabang it takes about three hours; from Luang Namtha it is about six hours. Technically there are also night buses to Vientiane and Phonsavan. I walked from Nong Khiaw station to the center but, if you want, a tuk tuk should be very cheap.

Muang Ngoy

This tiny village nestled in the mountains is located on the banks of the river north of Nong Khiaw and can only be reached by boat. Until 2013, it did not even have electricity all day; today it has become somewhat of a popular destination but still remains a quiet place to unplug.

What to do in Muang Ngoy

One could easily spend the days lounging in a hammock overlooking the river. If you want to stay active, here are some suggestions.

Phanoi viewpoint

This viewpoint is located here, just a stone’s throw from the village, and offers excellent views of the village below and the river.The trail starts here, admission costs 10,000 KIP, and it takes between 20 and 40 minutes to climb, depending on one’s pace.

If you want, there is another viewpoint, slightly lower down, access to which is at this point, the view is similar to the other viewpoint but the route is shorter and there are also two caves that can be explored, again entry costs 10,000 KIP.

Phanoi viewpoint.

Pha Boom Viewpoint

This viewpoint is on the opposite side of the village. I did not go up there as in mid-March the weather is not ideal (it’s always very hazy) but judging from the photos taken at other times of the year I think it is definitely worth it. The trail starts here and from what it says the entrance fee that costs 30,000 KIP to be paid at Gecko Restaurant.

According to reviews, the trail is quite hard, especially in the last section, 4-5 hours round trip (All Trails).

Houay Bo, Houay Sen and Ban Na

Houay Bo, Houay Sen and Ban Na are three villages that can be reached on foot from Muang Ngoy; it is a nice way to spend the day walking among the rice fields and observing rural life. All three villages offer guest houses for overnight stays. I visited Ban Na and Houay Bo, which, while not exceptional during the late dry season when the paddy fields are parched, still offer a pleasant way to spend a day walking, enjoying lunch or tea, and observing authentic village life.

The rice fields along the route.

Tad Mook

This waterfall is located about 10 km south of Muang Ngoy and can easily be reached on foot in about two hours (the trail is plotted on maps.me). It is not exactly the most impressive waterfall in the world, especially in the late dry season, but it is still nice. If you wish, you can rent kayaks (80,000 KIP per day) and go down the river to walk only the last stretch to Sop Keng village.

Finally, you can return to Nong Khiaw by kayak. You follow the current for about 3 to 4 hours. The cost varies between 100,000 and 200,000 KIP, depending on the number of people, and includes transporting your luggage. Some travelers also decide to continue their journey north along the river instead of returning to Nong Khiaw by reaching the town of Muang Khua from where there are then buses to the main towns in the region, the town apparently does not have much to offer though so I don’t know if it is worth it.

How to reach Muang Ngoy?

During low season, indicatively from March onward, there is only one boat per day leaving Nong Khiaw at 10:30 a.m., the cost is 25,000 KIP, in high season there is a second boat at 2:30 p.m.

On the way back, the boat leaves at 9:30 a.m. from Muang Ngoy, upon arrival there are tuk tuks ready to go to the station, and you can easily catch buses to Luang Prabang (40,000 KIP) and Luang Namtha (100,000 KIP), which always wait for boat passengers before leaving.

Where to sleep in Muang Ngoy?

Riverview Bungalows offers nice bungalows overlooking the river. The owner is nice and speaks very good English. If you are looking for an economical option it is better to look elsewhere. I slept at Sabaydi Guesthouse, bungalows a bit more basic but given the price paid (50,000 KIP per night) it is a good option. In any case, there is certainly no shortage of options especially outside the high season, and given the size of the village you can just walk around looking for accommodation.

Boat Ride to Muang Ngoy.

Viang Xai

While I haven’t personally visited, Xam Neua is reportedly an excellent destination, particularly for those traveling to or from Vietnam, or for anyone interested in the “Lao Secret War,” a civil conflict fought between 1953 and 1975. The area boasts hundreds of caves and tunnels that sheltered over twenty thousand soldiers and civilians during heavy bombings concentrated in the region, as the city served as the Pathet Lao’s command center.

For a brief history of the city and what to do and see, I refer you to this interesting article. As already mentioned there are connections to Vietnam, while for other destinations in Laos, one must first reach Sam Neua from where there are then direct connections to Luang Prabang and Phonsavan.

Luang Prabang

Situated at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, Luang Prabang, the former capital of Laos until 1975, is arguably the country’s most popular tourist destination and one of its few UNESCO World Heritage sites.

What to do and see in Luang Prabang

The city is famous for its many well-preserved colonial-era buildings that blend in with typical Laotian architecture.

Sunset along the river in Luang Prabang.

What to see in the city

The city center, boasting Luang Prabang’s most beautiful buildings, is located on a peninsula at the foot of Phousi Hill. The hill offers excellent city views and is extremely popular at sunset. Admission costs 30,000 kip, during high season if you want to get a “front row” seat you have to go up well in advance. If you want to avoid the crowds, I found a nice quiet spot along the river to watch the sunset.

You can enter the courtyard of the royal palace free of charge where there is also a museum dedicated to the period when the country was ruled by the monarchy. Admission to the museum costs 30,000 KIP.

Luang Prabang.

I highly recommend the UXO Lao Visitor Center, a small but fascinating museum dedicated to the ongoing issue of thousands of unexploded bombs remaining from the “secret war.” Admission is free, and the two documentaries shown are both informative and moving, making it a must-visit.

I also recommend visiting Utopia, a really cool bar/restaurant with a view of the river and nice lounging areas. You can easily spend the whole day there. The food, though more expensive than the norm, is excellent.

If you’d like to volunteer or simply interact with locals, the Big Brother Mouse language school welcomes foreigners who want to practice conversational English.

Finally, at dawn each morning, the traditional morning alms giving ceremony takes place. Locals offer food to the city’s monks, who walk in procession through the streets. A map of the procession route can be found here.

Utopia, Luang Prabang.

Kuang Si Waterfall

This is the waterfall that appears in many travel photos of Laos, unlike many other waterfalls in the country, this one has excellent year-round flow and the many natural pools are nothing short of fantastic, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful waterfalls I have seen during my travels.

Entry costs 25,000 KIP and organized minivans are offered for 60,000 KIP. They wait a few hours, then return to town. I decided to rent a scooter for 70,000 KIP so I could get to the falls independently and spend as much time as I wanted. I stayed until late and eventually it got really quiet but the middle hours of the day can be extremely crowded. Swimming is possible so don’t forget your bathing suit. During the rainy season, or at the beginning of the dry season, apparently Tad Sae Waterfall is also worth checking out.

If you decide to rent a scooter you could stop at Laos Buffalo Dairy, a nice project that not only employs some locals but also provides a steady source of income for farmers who rent their buffalo instead of selling them. A tour of the factory is offered for 50,000 KIP, or you can just buy some ice cream which is not bad at all! The other stop is the butterfly park, I have not been there but was told it is really nice.

Kuang Si.

Pak Ou Cave

It is a riverside cave north of Luang Prabang (Google Maps) with numerous Buddha statues inside. I have not been there so I won’t comment, but although for many guidebooks it is a “must see,” in reality many say it is a farce and there is not much to see. For something more authentic you could simply take a boat to cross the river and visit some of the villages that are on the other side from Luang Prabang.

Where to sleep in Luang Prabang?

I slept at Downtown Backpackers 2, nice common area and breakfast, great price. The only complaint is the size of the dorms which in my case was really modest, they also have private rooms at great prices. Downtown Backpacker seems to have bigger dorms while Smile Luang Prabang is a good alternative.

How to reach Luang Prabang?

There are Minivans to and from Vang Vieng that include pick up at your hostel/hotel, about 5 hours. Vientiane is 10 hours and Nong Khiaw 4 hours away. There are also connections to many other destinations such as Luang Namtha, Phonsavan, Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai in Thailand, and Hanoi in Vietnam.

Buses and minivans arriving in Luang Prabang stop at the north station, from there to the center near the night market the tuk tuks have a fixed price of 35,000 KIP. Luang Prabang also has a small airport with flights to Vientiane and Hanoi.

Luang Prabang is one of the stations (Google Maps) along the new railway line so there are fast daily connections to Luang Namtha (Nateuy Train station), Vang Vieng and Vientiane. You can purchase train tickets online through 12go.

Alms giving ceremony.

Vang Vieng

Vang Vieng, a popular stop on the classic Laos itinerary, was once notorious for its wild nightlife and the infamous “tubing” scene, which tragically led to around thirty deaths per year. However, the town has since undergone a significant transformation, with a calmer, more relaxed atmosphere prevailing.

What to do and see in Vang Vieng

Around the city there are literally dozens, if not hundreds, of scenic spots, caves and lagoons. To visit them all is unthinkable so below I list only the sites that I have personally visited or that have been recommended to me.

N.b. Virtually all the attractions are on the other side of the river from the city, to cross the main bridge foreigners have to pay 4,000 KIP by foot, 6,000 KIP by bicycle, 10,000 KIP by scooter and 15,000 KIP by dune buggies, whether this is legitimate or not I don’t know but you can easily avoid paying by taking the bridge that is about 200 meters further north, at this point, you can also cross by scooter and bicycle.

Nam Xay.

Lagoon No. 3

Just from the fact that they are numbered you can tell that there is no shortage of options when it comes to lagoons. I met a Swedish couple who visited all the lagoons 1 through 5 and this one was their favorite. I’ve only been here, so I won’t comment on the others but it’s actually nice, entry costs 20,000 KIP. I strongly recommend visiting the cave that is not far away. It is fun to explore, there is an arianna thread to follow that leads to a small pond at the end of the path, if possible bring a headlamp with you or at least your cell phone.

This is the location of the lagoon. I went there by scooter, the last part of the road is not in very good condition. A tuk tuk if shared with other people should not cost much.

Lagoon No. 3.

Viewpoints

There are many viewpoints. I went up to Nam Xay, nice and not too exhausting, at a brisk pace you can reach the top in about twenty minutes, a great 360-degree view and especially two motorcycles to take really cool photos.

The other viewpoint I visited is Pha Ngeun. It is a mountain that is about 4 km from the center and offers the highest viewpoint in the area. There are actually two viewpoints along the way, the first can be reached in about half an hour and is called Silver Cliff. It offers a great view especially at sunrise and there is a dune buggy for taking pictures. It is not the best at sunset as the sun disappears behind the part of the mountain where the second viewpoint is located called Pha Ngeun. We unfortunately left too late and had to stop at the first viewpoint, Silver Cliff. However, I imagine the view from there is spectacular, especially with the setting sun.

Silver Cliff.

Tubing

The experience in Vang Vieng is now vastly different from years past. Previously, countless bars lined the riverbanks, and excessive alcohol consumption was rampant. Today, to curb the chaos, only three bars are allowed to operate daily. The dangerous platforms, slides, and swings that caused numerous deaths and injuries have been completely removed.

Essentially, it’s a more relaxed and less extreme party scene. You can still enjoy a drink or two while floating down the river, but in a safer environment.

Hot Air Balloon Ride

Apparently Vang Vieng is the cheapest place in the world to take a hot air balloon ride, the price even during peak season is around $90. At the end of March when I visited, the price was advertised as low as $65, very little when you consider that Bagan in Myanmar charges about $300.

I personally haven’t done it but I imagine the views are great considering the geology of the land, and again, if it’s an experience you’d like to have, you’re unlikely to be able to spend less. The flight takes an average of 40 minutes, and at least in peak season it is offered at both sunrise and sunset.

Finally, if you haven’t seen enough temples yet, you can check out Wat That, Wat Kang, and Wat Si Sou Mang.

Where to sleep in Vang Vieng?

Freedom View Hostel is extremely clean and really cheap, friendly and helpful staff, highly recommended.

How to reach Vang Vieng?

From Vientiane it is about 3-4 hours by minivan. From Luang Prabang it is about 5 hours by minivan. Vang Vieng is one of the stations (Google Maps) along the new railway line so there are fast daily connections to Luang Namtha (Nateuy Train station), Luang Prabang and Vientiane. You can purchase train tickets online through 12go.

Vientiane

Here we are in the capital of Laos, which for many is simply a crossroads to other destinations within the country. In fact, the city does not have much to offer in terms of attractions, and compared to other capitals in the Asian region, such as Bangkok and Hanoi, it does not even have the hustle and bustle that might be appealing to some.

Pha That Stupa.

What to do in Vientiane

As already mentioned there is not much to do or see but, if you were to stay in town a day or two, I would recommend taking a trip to Pha That Luang, also known as the Golden Stupa.

Another site that could keep you busy for half a day is Buddha Park. It is located slightly outside the city but can be easily reached by taxi or even using public transportation by taking bus number 14, ask your hostel/hotel where the nearest stop is. Inside the park are hundreds of Hindu and Buddhist sculptures.

Finally, strolling in the evening on the “waterfront” of the Mekong is really enjoyable, as is eating or just hanging out at the night market.

Buddha Park.

Where to sleep in Vientiane?

Bed Terminal Hostel & Cafe, great hostel downtown, extremely comfortable and spacious beds, super fast wifi, friendly and helpful staff. If you are looking for a cheaper option check out Hive Hostel. Before returning home I treated myself to a few nights of “luxury” at Viryla Hotel, rooms if shared are not even too expensive, if budget allows I highly recommend it, really nice and modern rooms, phenomenal staff.

How to reach Vientiane?

To and from Vientiane there are direct bus and air connections to virtually every major city in the country. There are also direct buses to Hanoi and Hue in Vietnam, Phnom Penh and Siem Reap in Cambodia, and Bangkok in Thailand. The airport has many daily flights to major cities in Southeast Asia. Vientiane is one of the stations (Google Maps) along the new railway line so there are fast daily connections to Luang Namtha (Nateuy Train station), Luang Prabang and Vang Vien. You can purchase train tickets online through 12go.

Phonsavan

Phonsavan is the capital of Xieng Khouang province in central Laos, a crossroads for anyone who wants to visit the Plain of jars.

What to do and see in Phonsavan

I have not personally visited the city because it is really far away from most other destinations, but if you are fascinated by archaeology or the role Laos played during the Vietnam War, the city is definitely worth a visit.

The plain of the jars

The plain of jars consists of about 90 archaeological sites. About the civilization that created these jars and their use very little is known which makes it extremely mysterious. Of the many sites, Jar Site 1 is considered the most impressive and accessible; it is only 7 km from the city and can therefore be easily reached by scooter, followed by Site 2 and Site 3. The latter are located slightly further away and apparently the road is not in very good condition but still doable by scooter. The entrance fee is 15,000 KIP.

On the other hand, if you are interested in the events of the Vietnam War, the Secret War, and the issue related to unexploded ordnance, you can visit Uxo information center and the Mag Visitors Center.

N.b. The region was one of the most bombed during the Secret War, every year numerous people die from unexploded bombs, so if you decide to explore less-traveled areas, it is strongly recommended to avoid walking off trails and roads.

The plain of the jars.

How to reach Phonsavan?

Although Phonsavan is located quite far from other tourist destinations, requiring several hours of travel, and might not offer a wealth of attractions, it does have direct connections to Vientiane, Luang Prabang, and Vang Vieng. If desired, it could be included as an intermediate stop between Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng. Additionally, there are flights available to Vientiane and Luang Prabang.

Where to sleep in Phonsavan?

Nice Guesthouse and Sipanya Guesthouse seem a good value for money.

Thakhek

This city on the banks of the Mekong is nothing exceptional, but it has become a popular destination since travelers began using it as a base for what is now called the “Thakhek Loop”: a multi-day road trip that is generally completed by scooter/motorbike and culminates with a visit to Konglor Cave, an extremely impressive 7-km-long navigable cave.

Konglor Cave, when the water level is too low.

What to do and see in Thakhek

Nothing special to report in town. You can walk along the river and maybe check out the Wat Nabo temple. In the evening you should definitely try the Six Friends restaurant, frequented by tourists and locals, the food is great and all dishes are really cheap, highly recommended!

The Thakhek Loop

While the Thakhek Loop can technically be completed in three days and two nights, I recommend a minimum stay of three nights, with the option to extend it further if you prefer a more leisurely pace. Most people, including myself, complete the loop by scooter, but I’ve met travelers who opted for a rental car. Since the roads are generally in excellent condition, it’s a viable alternative for those who prefer not to travel on two wheels.

Let’s start with scooter rental. The two main stores are Wang Wang and Mad Monkey, the former has older scooters and is cheaper, while the latter has newer vehicles but is more expensive, we of course opted for the cheaper option by renting scooters from Wang Wang and in all honesty they were in very good condition, mine had only 18,000 km.

The Thakhek Loop gang.

Additionally, one of my travel mates fell off their scooter, causing minor damage. Despite having our passports, which can often lead to unfair demands in Southeast Asia, the owner was surprisingly honest about the repair costs. Scooter rental prices vary depending on the model, starting at 35,000 kip per day for a 100cc Chinese semi-automatic and going up to proper dirt bikes. We opted for 110cc Yamaha semi-automatics at 60,000 kip per day.

Below is the itinerary I personally followed for the Thakhek Loop. I believe it’s a good compromise, but as mentioned earlier, you can adjust the timing to your preference.

Day 1 of the loop

The first day is the one that can vary the most depending on preference. We headed to Paseum cave only to find that you can only reach the entrance, while to explore the cave you would need to rent kayaks. Not far away is Buddha Cave, which, however, does not seem to be anything exceptional.

Leaving a little late and with one of my two traveling mates having already ended up on the ground resulting in medication and further loss of time, we decided to drive to the Song Sa Waterfall, really pretty, I recommend going up the stream to the base of the main waterfall, super fun!

Alternatively, you could spend the morning exploring Tham Nang Ene caves, Xien Liap, bathing along the river at Tha Falang or perhaps some climbing at Green Climbers Home (official website).

Song Sa Waterfall.

We ended the day with this viewpoint where there is a nice view of the lake and a small bar serving drinks. An alternative is the so-called Sanseda Viewpoint.

We spent the night at Sabaidee Guesthouse in the village of Thalang where a lot of people spend the first night of the loop but even here there is no shortage of alternatives, there are numerous guesthouses in the previous villages and also in Thalang, such as for example Phosy Thalang Guesthouse.

Day 1 sunset.

Day 2 of the loop

The first few hours of driving are extremely pleasant. The road runs along the shores of the lake and there are several opportunities to take some photos. The first real attraction is Dragon Cave (Mangkone Cave) admission costs 20,000 KIP. From here we continue to Cool Springs, again the entrance costs 20,000 KIP but I assure you it is worth it, crystal clear water and extremely refreshing.

Cool springs.

After swimming, head to Khoun Kham village where you will spend the night. Along the way there are two nice viewpoints (1 and 2) once you get to the village, the two recommended guesthouses are Sanhak Guest House and Khounthavy Guest House.

Leave your things at the guesthouse and go watch the sunset from the Limestone Peaks Lookout, a beautiful view point, complete with a really fancy bar and restaurant.

Limestone Peaks.

Day 3 of the loop

Before reaching Konglor Cave, I highly recommend a stop at Tham Nam Non Cave. This impressive cave is free to enter, but the turnoff is poorly marked with a small blue sign on the left just before a bridge, roughly around this point. Continue to the end of the dirt road, then follow the path along the rock face on the right until you reach the cave entrance.

Tham Nam Non cave.

Then continue to Konglor Cave, leave your things at the guesthouse, we slept at Thong Dam Guesthouse, have something to eat at Konglor Restaurant, nice ambiance, delicious food, super nice owners, and finally head to the cave entrance at the end of the road.

The cave entrance fee, which includes the boat tour, costs 200,000 kip. However, I assure you it’s worth every penny! The cave is truly impressive, reaching over 100 meters high in some areas and spanning a remarkable 7 kilometers. The boat journey lasts about an hour, with a brief walk among the stalactites and stalagmites. On the other side, you’ll find a small village with a couple of restaurants where you can relax for up to two hours before returning.

Day 4 of the loop

On the last day of the loop we simply drove back to Thakhek, but if you want, with a little detour, you can go swimming in this lagoon. In our case we lacked the desire and the weather was not the best.

Since there isn’t much to see on the last day of the Thakhek Loop, I met a couple who brought their scooter on the boat through Konglor Cave for an extra fee. Emerging on the other side, they found a road to Thalang, allowing them to visit some places they missed on the first day while returning to Thakhek.

Walking path inside Konglor Cave.

Where to sleep in Thakhek?

Bed & Bike hostel, friendly and helpful staff with lots of information about the loop, great breakfast included in the price. I recommend booking in advance as they have few beds and it is pretty much always full. Naga Hostel and La casa are two good alternatives but slightly more expensive.

How to reach Thakhek?

From Vientiane it is 7 hours, there are both regular buses and VIP buses. From the south, Savannakhet is about three hours away, while from Pakse it is about 6-7 hours, I recommend taking the VIP bus as it leaves from the city center, to take the regular bus you would have to go to the north station paying a tuk tuk and it would cost you more.

Savannakhet

Savannakhet, also simply known as “Savan,” with a population of 120,000, is the second largest city in the country and during the French colonial period was an important port. To this day there remain some examples of colonial buildings concentrated especially around Talat Yen Plaza and the nearby St. Theresa Church.

Other sites of interest are the That Ing Hang Stupa which, however, is located outside the city and you should therefore rent a scooter or take a taxi; admission costs 5,000 KIP. Wat Sainyaphum, meanwhile, is close to the center and admission is free.

Other than that there is not much to do or see and because of this the city is reached by little international tourism. If, however, you want to break up the trip between Thakhek and Pakse, you arrive or continue your journey to Thailand (the second Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge is located here) then perhaps you can stop for a day or two.

Savannakhet.

Where to sleep in Savannakhet?

Sala Thongyon is an excellent guesthouse offering decently priced bungalows not far from downtown.

How to reach Savannakhet?

From Thakhek it is about 2-3 hours by bus. Pakse is about 5 hours away. There is a regular service between Mukdahan (Thailand) and Savannakhet with departures about every half hour.

Pakse

Yet another town along the banks of the Mekong, somewhat like Thakhek, the town itself does not have much to offer, the only noteworthy temple probably being Wat Luang. However, the town is the base used for completing the Pakse Loop.

Unfortunately, I did not have the chance to complete this circuit because of the coronavirus lockdown. Many accommodations were already closed, and after staying in town a couple of days to figure out what to do, I decided to reach the 4000 islands as soon as possible so that I would have a nice place to spend my lockdown.

In any case below I outline what is broadly the itinerary across the Bolaven Plateau.

The Pakse Loop

As for scooters, Miss Noy Motorbike seems to be the agency with the best reviews but it’s worth asking around if you’re looking for the absolute best price, along the main road there are several rentals such as Lao Go Car.

Wat Phu is technically not part of the classic Pakse Loop but, considering that it is only 40 km from the city and is a UNESCO site, it is probably worth taking a small detour and visiting this archaeological site consisting of a complex of Hindu temples. From here you could simply drive back to Pakse and start the loop proper.

Wat Phu.

Day 1 of the Pakse Loop

Start the day by heading to the Tad Phasouam waterfall, from here many stop at the coffee plantation where the owner Mr. Vieng offers guided tours (80,000 KIP) and if you want you can spend the night in the guesthouse, although normally you continue to Tad Lo village to visit the waterfall and spend the night.

Day 2 of the Pakse Loop

The first stop on day two is the Katu ethnic village near Tad Lo, where Captain Hook offers guided tours that apparently vary daily. The tours start each day at 9:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. I’ll leave you to the reviews because I think they are absolutely worth it.

At this point most travelers head to Tad Faed waterfall, or directly to the more impressive Tad Tayicseua where you spend the night.

Tad Phasouam.

Day 3 of the Pakse Loop

It is advisable to spend a second night here and spend the day exploring the many waterfalls in the surrounding area. There are seven in total and you can easily move around on foot, following trails connecting all the waterfalls.

Day 4 of the Pakse Loop

On the fourth and last day of the loop you visit the two most beautiful waterfalls on the itinerary, Tad Fane in particular appears in many photos of the region and is really picturesque, the other is Tad Gneuang Waterfall. From here you return to Pakse.

Tad Fane.

Where to sleep in Pakse?

I personally slept at 1918 Hostel, a nice, cheap and really clean hostel. The only negative note is the breakfast included in the price, which is poor to say the least. A better but slightly more expensive alternative is Sanga Hostel.

How to reach Pakse?

As mentioned earlier, if you are coming from Thakhek or Savannakhet I recommend the VIP bus as it gets to the city center and you can easily walk from there. It is 6-7 hours from Thakhek and 2-3 hours from Savannakhet. Si Phan Don is about three hours away, minivans include the boat ride to Don Det.

Si Phan Don (4000 islands)

Located on the Mekong River in southern Laos, near the Cambodian border, this archipelago might not have exactly four thousand islands, but it boasts numerous ones. Some are uninhabited and become submerged during the rainy season. The main islands to visit are Don Kong, Don Som, Don Det, and Don Khon.

N.b. There are no ATMs on the islands so make sure you have enough cash before you get on the boat.

Don Khon.

What to do and see in Si Phan Don

Let’s start by saying that although several islands are inhabited, the fact of the matter is that the vast majority of travelers just visit Don Det. In fact, this is the most developed island where most of the guest houses are located, followed by Don Khon connected to Don Det by a bridge. The other islands are much more rural and see very few tourists.

While spending your days lounging in a Mekong-view bungalow with a good book is tempting, here are some activities to consider during your time at the 4000 Islands:

Li Phi Falls

These are a series of really impressive waterfalls located on Don Khon Island and can be easily reached on foot or by bicycle. The entrance to the falls has been completely free for some time now and there are a series of viewpoints from which the various waterfalls can be observed, really impressive even during the dry season. This is the location.

Li Phi.

Tad Khone Pa Soi Waterfalls

These waterfalls are on the other side of Don Khon from Li Phi in this location, they are definitely less impressive than Li Phi but still remain pretty. Admission is free but if you want you can leave a donation. Compared to Li Phi here, swimming is not dangerous at all. There is a small beach to spend a few hours relaxing.

Dolphin spotting tour and Khone Phapheng waterfall

I did not personally participate in this tour that is advertised almost everywhere on the islands, lasts a full day, includes food and a visit to the Khone Phapheng waterfall, the largest in Southeast Asia by volume of water. After the visit to the waterfall, you board a boat to try to spot freshwater dolphins, which are now extremely rare as less than 80 live in the entire Mekong.

Khone Phapheng.

How to reach Si Phan Don?

From Pakse, minivans are offered with pick up at your hostel/hotel and a boat ticket to Don Det. From Cambodia there are direct minivans from Kratie and a daily bus from Phnom Penh that takes about 7 hours to reach your destination.

Where to sleep in Si Phan Don?

I stayed in Don Det. In general, the northern part of the island, where the pier and main village are located, is the busiest; there are numerous guesthouses, bars and restaurants. I spent a week away from everything and everyone, staying in one of the bungalows at River garden in the south of the island near the bridge connecting Don Det to Don Khon. The owner was really nice and helpful, they have a nice restaurant by the Mekong. If you’re looking for a room with air conditioning and a nice pool, Little Eden during the off-season offers competitive prices.

If you found this article helpful, please consider purchasing your travel insurance through one of the links on this site, doing so supports my work at no additional cost to you. For EU & UK Residents, i recommend True Traveller. For everyone else i recommend HeyMondo (5% discount). Thanks!

Suggested itineraries in Laos

To visit all the places described in this guide it would take almost two months. Considering that many people do not have that much time at their disposal, I list below some short itineraries that touch on major tourist destinations and can be used as a starting point for constructing an itinerary based on one’s interests and in light of what has been described so far.

One-week itinerary in Laos

With only one week to spare, taking into account that many enter by land from Thailand I think the itinerary should more or less reflect the following, I include the slow boat that so many choose but if you wanted you could save a day by taking the bus to Luang Prabang, the choice is yours. Should you start your trip from Vientiane you can simply follow the itinerary in reverse.

Pakbeng (1 night)

Day 1:

Slow boat from Huay Xai to Pakbeng.

Luang Prabang (3 nights)

Day 2:

Slow boat from Pakbeng to Luang Prabang.

Day 3:

Explore the city, Phousi Hill, the royal palace, Uxo Museum etc etc.

Day 4:

Day at Kuang Si Falls, dairy farm and butterfly garden.

Vang Vieng (2 nights)

Day 5:

Transfer from Luang Prabang, visit a lagoon in the afternoon and perhaps a viewpoint for sunset.

Day 6:

Tubing, hot air balloon ride, lagoons, Viewpoints, the choice is yours.

Vientiane (1 night)

Day 7:

Transfer to Vientiane.

10-day itinerary in Laos

With a couple of extra days to spare, I recommend following the same seven-day itinerary just described, moving at a more leisurely pace or perhaps adding the Gibbon Experience at Huay Xai if it is within your budget.

Two-week itinerary in Laos

Two weeks gives the flexibility to add a few more destinations in the itinerary. Personally I would opt for the Gibbon Experience (always budget permitting), Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoy doing the following. Especially if you decide to do the Gibbon Experience I recommend taking the overnight bus to Luang Prabang so you can save time.

Huay Xai (3 nights)

Day 1:

Day 1 Gibbon Experience.

Day 2:

Day 2 Gibbon Experience.

Day 3:

Day 3 Gibbon Experience. True Luang Prabang overnight bus.

Luang Prabang (3 nights)

Day 4:

Explore the city, Phousi Hill, the royal palace, Uxo Museum etc etc.

Day 5:

Day at Kuang Si Falls, dairy farm and butterfly garden.

Nong Khiaw (2 nights)

Day 6:

Transfer from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw. Climb up to one of the viewpoints for sunset.

Day 7:

Other scenic spots, caves, kayaks, ethnic villages, the choice is yours.

Muang Ngoy (2 nights)

Day 8:

Boat from Nong Khiaw to Muang Ngoy. Climb to one of the viewpoints for sunset.

Day 9:

Explore villages around Muang Ngoy, rent a kayak, relax, the choice is yours.

Vang Vieng (3 nights)

Day 10:

Boat from Muang Ngoy to Nong Khiaw, minibus to Luang Prabang, minibus to Vang Vieng (you have to change stations and if you arrive late you run the risk of missing the last bus of the day).

Day 11:

Tubing, hot air balloon ride, lagoons, scenic spots, the choice is yours.

Day 12:

Tubing, hot air balloon ride, lagoons, scenic spots, the choice is yours.

Vientiane (2 nights)

Day 13:

Transfer to Vientiane. Pha That Luang and Buddha Park.

Day 14:

Leave the country.

Three-week itinerary in Laos

With twenty days to spare in my opinion you have two options. Focus exclusively on the north of the country, following the itinerary just described more slowly and adding destinations such as: Luang Namtha, Phonsavan and Viang Xai especially if you plan to continue the journey to Vietnam.

Or follow the two-week itinerary just described and then devote a week to the south of the country, choosing between one of the two loops (Thakhek and Pakse) plus a few days in Si Phan Don. This version of the itinerary is especially recommended if you plan to continue your trip to Cambodia.

Four-week itinerary in Laos

A month in the country is plenty of time to explore both north and south without too much hurry. In the map below you see what should be a rough itinerary you can follow.

How to get around in Laos

Laos is one of the poorest and least developed countries in the region, which has an impact on infrastructure, especially in rural areas where roads are not exactly in great condition and often need to be paved. Major connections between popular tourist destinations have improved dramatically in recent years and, in my experience, provide relatively fast travel; in addition, the situation is improving rapidly mainly due to Chinese investment.

Buses in Laos

Minivans are currently the fastest and most affordable way to travel within Laos. While older guides might recommend river travel, the only viable long-distance boat trip is from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang. Dam construction has disrupted other routes, and improved roads have made overland travel faster.

“VIP buses” are available on some routes, but don’t expect luxury. Compared to Western standards, these buses are essentially older models with air conditioning, slightly more legroom, and faster travel times due to fewer stops.

For overnight journeys, “sleeping buses” offer lie-flat bunks, though these are typically shared. Unless traveling as a couple, be prepared to share a “bed” with a stranger.

Minivan in Laos.

Flights in Laos

If budget is not an issue, domestic flights can save you quite a bit of time. The national airline Lao Airlines has a monopoly, and given the low air traffic, prices are not exactly cheap.

From the capital Vientiane there are daily flights to numerous other cities in Laos, such as Luang Prabang, Savannakhet, Pakse, Phonsavan, and Luang Namtha but also Cessna flights to more remote destinations such as Phongsali, Sam Neua, and Saint Yabuli.

Finally, there are international flights to other capitals in the region such as Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Hanoi mainly from Vientiane but also from Luang Prabang.

Taxi in Laos

As is common in Asia, it’s wise to negotiate the price before boarding a tuk-tuk and expect some initial overcharging. Apps like Grab and Uber are not yet available here. In my experience, except for trips to and from out-of-town bus stations, tuk-tuks in this area seem to have fixed prices per person and drivers are generally unwilling to bargain. There may be a “boss” ensuring consistent pricing.

Motorcycles in Laos

Similar to Vietnam, motorbikes are a popular mode of transportation in Laos. Many travelers cross the border from Vietnam on their motorcycles and continue their journey within Laos without any problems.

Trains in Laos

There is a new railway line which started operating in late 2021 that offers connections from Vientiane to the border with China. The main stations of interest to travelers are Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang, and Luang Namtha (Nateuy Train station). Currently, train tickets can only be purchased online through 12go. A map of the train line can be found on this page.

Riding around Luang Namtha.

Backpacking Laos: costs

How much does a trip to Laos cost?

Despite not being on the level of Myanmar and Vietnam, I personally believe that Laos is still one of the cheapest countries in the region or at least cheaper than southern Thailand for example. Basically, traveling economically you should have no problem with a budget of 20 euros a day.

Cost of accommodation in Laos

Private rooms or bungalows are quite cheap. Outside destinations such as Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng and Vientiane you can easily find something nice for less than 10 euros. In the cities mentioned above I slept in hostels paying no more than about 6 euros per night with breakfast often included.

Cost of transportation in Laos

Land transportation in Laos is very affordable, typically costing €1-2 per hour of travel. However, tuk-tuk rides from out-of-town bus stations are unusually expensive due to a seemingly organized system ensuring fixed, inflated prices. Additionally, domestic flights are relatively costly, with fares generally starting at $100 for short distances, even when booked in advance.

Cost of food in Laos

If you’re not picky about restaurants, food in Laos typically costs between €1 and €3 per dish. Even at nicer establishments, prices rarely exceed €5.

Laap, typical local dish.

Other costs (withdrawals and sim cards)

Unfortunately, even with the best travel cards, withdrawal fees in Laos are unavoidable. Local banks charge a fee, and no ATMs offer free withdrawals. Many have limits as low as 1 million kip. The best bank, BCEL, allows withdrawals of 1.5 million kip.

As for sim cards, Unitel is the best provider overall.

If your phone supports eSIMs and you prefer immediate internet access without buying a local SIM, consider services like Airalo or Ubigi. However, note that eSIMs typically cost more per gigabyte than local SIMs, and their local partner may not always offer the best coverage. Most travelers would likely benefit from a local SIM (or even a local eSIM), but consider your specific needs, as exceptions exist. For instance, during my Japan trip, Ubigi’s plan was cheaper than any local SIM available to non-residents.

Backpacking Laos: safety

The security situation in Laos is similar to the rest of Southeast Asia: it is generally safe for solo travelers, with an extremely low level of crime and violence compared to other regions, such as South America.

Of course, common sense should be used as it would be anywhere in the world. By following standard precautions, you should not encounter any problems. However, one issue worth highlighting is the strong police corruption. I’ll give you two examples to illustrate this: two French girls were caught smoking a joint on the terrace of their hostel (suggesting some level of complicity) and were taken to the police station where they were threatened with jail time and released only after paying €400 each, down from an initial demand of €800 each.

Another example involves an Italian man I met at the Vientiane airport. While smoking a cigarette in the parking lot, a policeman demanded a €40 fine. Since the man had no ID or wallet on him, the policeman seized his GoPro while waiting for payment. Unfortunately, such incidents are not uncommon. My advice is to avoid problems by abiding by the rules. While paying fines is often the quickest solution, try to assert your rights: seizing passports and personal property is illegal.

Finally, dress appropriately when visiting temples—avoid tank tops and excessively short pants, and remember to remove your shoes.

Are you planning a trip to Laos? Check out these posts:

The best cards for traveling

What to bring on your trip

Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!

For donations/pizzas and virtual beers 🙂

Did you like the post? Pin it!