Laos Travel Guide

Laos, officially known as the Lao People’s Democratic Republic (Lao PDR), is one of the least explored and most overlooked countries in all of Southeast Asia.

Maybe it’s because it’s the only landlocked country in the whole region, maybe it’s the absence of one-of-a-kind attractions like Bagan in Myanmar and Angkor Wat in Cambodia, but the fact remains that the country gets a fraction of the tourism the other countries get. Still, I assure you it hides many gems that are absolutely worth seeing.

I spent six weeks backpacking from north to south (here you’ll find the video of my trip, in Italian, but you can turn on the subtitles), and in this guide you’ll find lots of useful tips and information to help you plan your trip as best you can.

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Children in a village in northern Laos.

When to visit Laos

Laos, like practically all the other countries in the region, has two distinct seasons: the dry season and the rainy season. In general, the best time to visit Laos corresponds with the dry season that runs roughly from November to April, with the months of November, December, and January being considered the absolute best, given the absence of rainfall and the low temperatures that are undoubtedly the most pleasant of the year. Obviously this period coincides with peak season, which is reflected in prices, especially for accommodation and some activities.

Starting in March, temperatures and humidity rise considerably until peaking around May, just before the rains. These months, while not the most pleasant, still remain a good time to visit the country.

The rainy season, while not ideal, has considerable advantages. The landscape literally turns green, the rice fields finally take on color, and the beautiful waterfalls are in full swing. The almost daily rains tend to be concentrated within a few hours, especially during the early months of the wet season, while they’re much more frequent as the season progresses, peaking in August.

During the peak of the rains, some roads may be impassable making overland travel difficult. Many activities like hiking and tubing are practically out of the question. September and October can be good months, as there’s a decrease in rainfall and a drop in temperatures until the transition to the dry season in November.

Luang Prabang.

Documents and vaccinations for entering Laos

Since the summer of 2019, it has been possible to apply online, on the official government website, for the so-called “Evisa.” It’s currently only accepted at the airports in Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Pakse plus the two land borders with Thailand in Vientiane and Savannakhet (Friendship Bridge I and Friendship Bridge II). The cost is 50$, which is strangely higher than the visa on arrival, so I recommend the second option.

The 30-day visa on arrival can be obtained at all international border crossings, requires a cash payment of 35$ (make sure the bills are in perfect condition) and a passport-size photo. At some borders you’re also asked for 1$ on weekends to process the application, whether this is legitimate or not remains a mystery.

The visa can be extended by 30 days twice at a cost of 20,000 KIP per day (about 2€) at any immigration office. Basically you can decide how many days you want to extend your visa, up to a maximum of 30 days, and for each day the cost is 20,000 KIP. If you exceed the duration of your visa, the so-called “overstay” triggers a fine of 10$ per day. If you’re near the Thai border, making a visa run is more cost-effective than renewal from a financial point of view and is perfectly acceptable.

Laos doesn’t require any mandatory vaccinations but Hepatitis A and B are recommended.

For up-to-date information on visas and everything else, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).

Viewpoint in Nong Khiaw.

What to do and see in Laos

In this guide, prices are often expressed in the local currency. The official Laos currency is called “Lao Kip” shortened to “KIP.”

The exchange rate is about 1€ = 25,000 KIP. For the current exchange rate, I suggest you look at this page.

Since so many enter Laos from northern Thailand, the destinations described, for convenience, will follow the order from north to south.

N.b. Several times throughout the guide you’ll find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the Alltrails app you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.

Huay Xai

On the banks of the Mekong on the border with Thailand, the city is for many a simple crossroads to other destinations in the country.

What to do and see in Huay Xai

The town itself doesn’t have much to offer. As mentioned above, most people spend only one night there before taking the slow boat to Luang Prabang. If you’re really looking for something to keep you busy, you can visit the temple from which you can see a beautiful sunset and the fort, the latter not exactly impressive. Or you can simply spend the day at one of the many bars and restaurants along the river.

Stairs leading to the temple in Huay Xai.

Slow boat to Luang Prabang

Personally, I chose a different route, heading by road to Luang Namtha, but the slow boat to Luang Prabang is by far the most popular option once you get to Huay Xai.

On the slow boat the journey takes two days, with a stop in Pakbeng for the night. You spend about 7 hours a day on the boat, and I’ve heard mixed opinions, from people who say it’s an extremely pleasant trip to people who say they were fed up after the first hour of the first day. Either way, everyone agrees on trying to sit as far away from the engine as possible!

The slow boat ticket can be purchased almost anywhere in the city. The price without accommodation in Pakbeng should be about 300,000 KIP.

The quicker and cheaper alternative, but without the experience of navigating along the Mekong, is to take the night bus, or the daytime minivan, at a cost of 180,000 KIP, it’s about ten hours of travel time.

Finally, for those with the budget, there are luxury cruises that cover the route and include a variety of activities along the way.

One of the tree houses of the Gibbon Experience.

Gibbon Experience

This is the second reason why many people end up in Huay Xai, and this time I speak from personal experience, having personally participated in the three-day tour. This is a beautiful conservation project that started in 1996 and culminated in the establishment of Nam Khan National Park in 2008. The whole project to date employs about 130 local people.

Going into detail, what’s offered is a two- or three-day jungle experience within the national park. Inside it, the world’s tallest tree houses have been built, where you can spend the night, and a network of zip lines over 15 kilometers long that let you move around inside the jungle, as well as, of course, a series of trails.

As the name of the project, Gibbon Experience, suggests, the chance of seeing gibbons is more than real. I personally saw a big group, and hearing their call is seriously awesome! The only downside of this beautiful experience is definitely the price, about 300€ for three days and two nights, 200€ for two days and one night.

Obviously everything is included and the food served is excellent, the guides are friendly and helpful, but if you’re traveling on a tight budget, it’s probably better to use this money to extend your stay by a few extra weeks.

If, on the other hand, you can afford it, I can’t recommend it enough: not only is it an incredible experience, unique in the world, but you also help support a fantastic conservation project.

Finally, there are three types of tour. If you want to maximize your chances of seeing gibbons, or simply don’t want to walk that much, I recommend the “classic”.

In any case, you can find all the relevant information on the official website.

Ziplining during the Gibbon Experience.

Where to sleep in Huay Xai?

If you’re traveling alone I strongly recommend Little Hostel, a really nice and clean hostel in the center of town, extremely friendly and helpful staff. It absolutely has to be booked in advance as they only have eight beds. Alternatively there are numerous guest houses that offer private rooms at modest prices. A friend slept at Oudom Phone Guesthouse 2 and recommended it to me.

How to reach Huay Xai?

If you’re coming from Thailand, there’s a direct bus that leaves from Chiang Rai Terminal 2 every day at 10:00 for 225 THB. It waits for you at both immigration offices and drops you off at the Huay Xai bus station.

A cheaper alternative is to take the bus from Terminal 1 in the center (of Chiang Rai) to the border. From there, there should be a shuttle service between the two immigration offices, and then there are tuk tuks that take you straight to the center; if you arrive at the Huay Xai bus station on the direct bus, you’d still have to take a tuk tuk to the center, at a fixed price of 100 THB per person.

Finally, you don’t need to get rid of all your baht before leaving Thailand, the exchange rate in Huay Xai is excellent.

To Luang Prabang there are at least three buses a day, two during the day and one at night, while to Luang Namtha, in the north, there are two daily departures, in the morning at 9:00 and then at 12:30. There’s only one direct bus to Vientiane, on the other hand.

Luang Namtha

This town in northern Laos, near the border with China, is certainly not charming, but it’s the ideal base for those who want to visit nearby Nam Ha National Park, for those arriving or continuing their journey to China, or simply looking for an alternative to the slow boat or the long bus ride to Luang Prabang.

What to do and see in Luang Namtha

There are at least a couple of traditional saunas in town, which are particularly popular in the north of the country; admission costs only 15,000 KIP, and any massage is paid separately. Other than that, in town I recommend taking a stroll around the morning market just outside the center, while in the evening the night market is right in the center.

Along the trails of Nam Ha National Park.

Trekking and rafting in Nam Ha National Park

There are at least five or six agencies along the main road downtown, each offering a variety of tours: one-day treks or up to five days with overnight stays in ethnic villages, or jungle camps on so-called “survival tours,” a mixture of trekking and rafting. The offerings are really varied as are the prices.

I ended up doing a two-day trek with an overnight stay in an ethnic village with the company Into The Wild, paying 65$. It was the only company to have other participants to share the cost with for the next day, the tour was nice but absolutely nothing exceptional, if I did it again, I’d go with the Discovering Laos agency which has phenomenal reviews, although more expensive.

My two biggest complaints are that we slept in a facility on the edge of the village instead of a homestay, and our guide cooked our meals instead of participating in a traditional cooking class, as offered by other companies.

If you’re on a tight budget, my advice is to walk around downtown and see which agencies have reservations for the next few days (they all have a board outside the office with any reservations) so you can lower the cost of the tour. However, remember to check out the reviews on tripadvisor/Google Maps.

In conclusion, given the time (March) the river level was too low for kayaking but at the beginning of the dry season it should be a really fun activity.

The village where we spent the night during the trek.

Muang Sing

Muang Sing is literally the last town before the Chinese border. It’s absolutely not a must-see, but renting a scooter and riding the 60 km between the town and Luang Namtha is an extremely pleasant way to spend the day.

The road has little traffic, is in good condition and runs through rural villages and the jungle, it’s really scenic. Riding at a relaxed pace it takes about two hours; you can have lunch in Muang Sing and then head back to town in the afternoon. I also recommend stopping at the Pha Yueang Waterfall, which you reach at the end of a short trail, not exactly impressive but definitely pretty and a nice way to stretch your legs. The entrance technically costs 10,000 KIP, but during my visit there was no one checking and I got in for free.

I rented a semi-automatic scooter from this shop for 50,000 KIP, the automatic scooter costs 70,000 KIP, and a passport is required as a deposit.

Pha Yueang Waterfall.

How to reach Luang Namtha?

The bus station is about 10 km south of town, and tuk tuks charge a fixed price of 20,000 KIP. From here there are direct connections to Luang Prabang, about 8 hours, Nong Khiaw, about 6 hours, and Huay Xai, about 4 hours. There are also several departures to the border with China and flights to and from the capital, Vientiane. The new Nateuy train station (Google Maps), which has connections to Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng and Vientiane, is easy to reach. Shared minivans to and from Luang Namtha should cost about 50,000 KIP. You can buy train tickets online through 12go.

Where to sleep in Luang Namtha?

If you’re looking for the absolute cheapest option, Manychan Guesthouse seems to be the only option with a dorm, 30,000 KIP a night. I slept at Adounsiri Guesthouse, away from the main road, a spacious and clean room for 70,000 KIP, even though at first they wanted 80,000. I also checked out Thoulasith Guesthouse, a great option right in the center. If, on the other hand, you’re looking for something that’s still cheap but in a really nice setting outside the center, on the riverbank, take a look at Taidam Guesthouse.

Nong Khiaw

Nong Khiaw isn’t part of the classic itinerary in Laos but since it’s only three hours from Luang Prabang, it’s becoming particularly popular. It’s a small town on the banks of the Nam Ou River, surrounded by limestone mountains with a landscape similar to Vang Vieng but with a distinctly more rural and relaxed atmosphere.

Nong Khiaw seen from Nang None Mountain.

What to do and see in Nong Khiaw

It’s a really peaceful place where you could spend a couple of days relaxing, renting a bungalow by the river, but there are also plenty of excursions and activities to do in and around town.

Climb the viewpoints overlooking the town

There are at least three really cool viewpoints around town. Phadeng Peak can be reached in about 40-60 minutes depending on your pace, with great views at both sunrise and sunset; if you want, you can camp on the summit. The trail is easy to follow and well maintained, and admission costs 20,000 KIP. GPS track on All Trails.

The second viewpoint I went up is Nang None Mountain, where there are actually two distinct viewpoints: the first one slightly lower while the second one is higher up and in my opinion offers a better view; admission costs 15,000 KIP.

Of the two just mentioned, Phadeng is the prettiest. There’s finally a third and last viewpoint, which I didn’t visit, but judging from the photos it doesn’t look bad at all, it was opened recently so it’s not as popular as the other two but it seems by far the highest, so I imagine it takes well over an hour to climb, the beginning of the trail should be this one, the entrance costs 20,000 KIP. All Trails.

In all cases it’s advisable to bring a headlamp, especially if you decide to go up for sunset.

Phadeng Peak Nong Khiaw.

Pha Kuang Cave

The cave is located slightly outside of town but can easily be reached on foot, reviews are somewhat mixed but I assure you that if you like exploration it’s absolutely worth it. Admission costs 10,000 KIP and, in case you don’t have one, a headlamp is provided.

This is a cave used during the war as a bomb shelter and the tunnels are extremely narrow in places, you literally have to crawl on the ground to make your way through the various chambers, extremely fun and adventurous as far as I’m concerned but if you’re not ready to get dirty and pull off some contortionist moves, I’d probably skip it.

Another cave near the town is Pha Tok Cave, I haven’t personally been there but according to the reviews it doesn’t look like much.

To conclude, among the various activities offered in Nong Khiaw are kayaking along the river, visiting ethnic villages that you could do on your own by renting a scooter, zip lining, and finally a fairly popular trek offered by Tiger Trails called “100 Waterfalls” which you can read about on tripadvisor.

Me making my way through Pha Kuang Cave.

Where to sleep in Nong Khiaw?

I slept at Khamphan Guesthouse Riverview where, after bargaining, I managed to get a private room at the back for 50,000 KIP a night. I was told that Delilahs has a good dorm for 35,000 KIP. During high season prices are probably higher; in any case there are quite a few guesthouses and finding a good option shouldn’t be a problem, also because the town is really compact.

How to reach Nong Khiaw?

From Luang Prabang it’s about 3 hours, 40,000 KIP; from Luang Namtha it’s about six hours, 100,000 KIP. Technically there are also night buses to Vientiane and Phonsavan. I walked from the Nong Khiaw station to the center but, if you want, a tuk tuk costs only 5,000 KIP.

Muang Ngoy

This tiny village nestled in the mountains is located on the banks of the river north of Nong Khiaw and can only be reached by boat. Until 2013, it didn’t even have electricity all day; today it has become somewhat of a popular destination but still remains a quiet place to unplug.

What to do in Muang Ngoy

You could easily spend your days lazing in a hammock with a river view but, in case you want to stay active, here are a few ideas.

Phanoi viewpoint

This viewpoint is located here, a stone’s throw from the village, and offers great views of the little village below and the river. The trail starts at this point, admission costs 10,000 KIP, and it takes between 20 and 40 minutes to climb, depending on your pace. On this page you’ll find the GPS track.

If you want, there’s another viewpoint, slightly lower down, whose access is at this point. The view is similar to the other viewpoint but the route is shorter, and there are also two caves you can explore; here too admission costs 10,000 KIP.

Phanoi viewpoint.

Pha Boom Viewpoint

This viewpoint is on the opposite side of the village. I didn’t go up because in mid-March the weather isn’t ideal (there’s pretty much always haze on the horizon), but judging from the photos taken at other times of the year, I think it’s absolutely worth it. The trail starts at this point and, from what’s written there, admission costs 30,000 KIP, to be paid at the Gecko Restaurant.

According to reviews, the trail is fairly tough, especially the last stretch, 4-5 hours round trip. On this page you’ll find a description of the trail.

Houay Bo, Houay Sen and Ban Na

Houay Bo, Houay Sen and Ban Na are three villages you can reach on foot from Muang Ngoy; it’s a nice way to spend the day walking among the rice fields and observing rural life. All three villages have guesthouses where you can spend the night. I visited Ban Na and Houay Bo, nothing exceptional, especially late in the dry season when the rice fields are completely dry, but if you feel like taking a walk and stopping for lunch, or even just for a cup of tea while you watch authentic village life, it’s definitely a nice way to spend the day.

The rice fields along the route.

Tad Mook

This waterfall is located about 10 km south of Muang Ngoy and can easily be reached on foot in about two hours (the trail is plotted on Organic Maps). It’s not exactly the most impressive waterfall in the world, especially in the late dry season, but it’s still a pleasant spot. If you wish, you can rent kayaks (80,000 KIP per day) and go down the river to walk only the last stretch to Sop Keng village.

Finally, you can return to Nong Khiaw by kayak. You follow the current for about 3 to 4 hours. The cost varies between 100,000 and 200,000 KIP, depending on the number of people, and includes transporting your luggage. Some travelers also decide to continue their journey north along the river instead of returning to Nong Khiaw, heading to the town of Muang Khua, from where there are then buses to the main towns in the region, the town apparently doesn’t have much to offer though so I don’t know if it’s worth it.

How to reach Muang Ngoy?

During low season, roughly from March onward, there’s only one boat per day leaving Nong Khiaw at 10:30, the cost is 25,000 KIP, in high season there’s a second boat at 14:30.

On the way back, the boat leaves at 9:30 from Muang Ngoy, upon arrival there are tuk tuks ready to go to the station, and you can easily catch buses to Luang Prabang (40,000 KIP) and Luang Namtha (100,000 KIP), which always wait for boat passengers before leaving.

Where to sleep in Muang Ngoy?

Riverview Bungalows offers nice bungalows overlooking the river, and the owner is friendly and speaks excellent English. If you’re looking for a budget option it’s better to look elsewhere; I slept at Sabaydi Guesthouse, bungalows that are a bit more basic but, given the price I paid (50,000 KIP a night), it’s a great option. In any case, there’s certainly no shortage of options, especially outside high season, and given the size of the village you can easily look for something once you’re there.

The boat ride to Muang Ngoy.

Viang Xai

I haven’t personally visited this town, but apparently it’s a great destination, especially for anyone continuing their trip to Vietnam or arriving from there, and for anyone interested in the so-called “Secret War in Laos”, a civil war fought in the country between 1953 and 1975. In fact, there are hundreds of caves and tunnels that were used as shelter by over twenty thousand people, soldiers and civilians, during the bombings concentrated in this region, since the town hosted the command center of the Pathet Lao.

For a brief history of the town and what to do and see, check out this interesting article. As already mentioned, there are connections to Vietnam, while for other destinations in Laos you first need to reach Sam Neua, from where there are direct connections to Luang Prabang and Phonsavan.

Luang Prabang

Located at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, the small town of Luang Prabang was the capital of Laos until 1975 and is undoubtedly the most touristy destination in the country, as well as one of the few UNESCO sites in Laos.

What to do and see in Luang Prabang

The city is famous for its many well-preserved colonial-era buildings that blend in with typical Laotian architecture.

Sunset along the river in Luang Prabang.

What to see in the city

The town center and the most beautiful buildings are in the part of town that forms a sort of peninsula at the foot of Phousi Hill, from where you get great views over the town. It’s extremely popular at sunset, admission costs 30,000 KIP, and apparently during high season, if you want a “front row” seat, you have to go up well in advance. I found myself a nice quiet spot along the river, which I recommend if you want to avoid the crowds.

You can enter the courtyard of the royal palace for free, where there’s also a museum dedicated to the period when the country was ruled by the monarchy; admission to the museum costs 30,000 KIP. Instead, I recommend the UXO Museum, small but extremely interesting, dedicated to what’s unfortunately still a current problem, namely the thousands of unexploded bombs dating back to the “secret war”. Admission is free and they show two really interesting documentaries, moving at times, highly recommended.

On the streets of Luang Prabang.

I also recommend visiting Utopia, a really cool bar/restaurant with a river view and nice chill-out areas where you can easily spend entire days; the food, although more expensive than usual, is excellent. If you’d like to do a good deed or simply interact with the locals, check out the Big Brother Mouse language school, where foreigners who want to have conversations in English are welcome.

Finally, every morning at dawn the morning alms giving takes place: basically, the people of Luang Prabang give food to the town’s monks, who pass by in a sort of procession through the streets. You can watch it pretty much anywhere, and it’s clear where the monks will pass since the locals wait patiently at the side of the road; here’s a map.

Utopia, Luang Prabang.

Kuang Si Waterfall

This is the waterfall that appears in many travel photos of Laos, unlike many other waterfalls in the country, this one has excellent year-round flow and the many natural pools are nothing short of fantastic, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful waterfalls I’ve seen during my travels.

Admission costs 25,000 KIP, and organized minivans are offered for 60,000 KIP; they wait a couple of hours and then head back to town. I decided to rent a scooter for 70,000 KIP so I could get to the falls on my own and spend as much time as I wanted. I stayed until late, when there was no one left anymore; the middle hours of the day can be extremely crowded, especially during high season. You can swim, so don’t forget your swimsuit. If you’re in the area during the rainy season, or at the beginning of the dry season, apparently Tad Sae Waterfall is also worth checking out.

If you decide to rent a scooter, you can also include two stops: Laos Buffalo Dairy, a nice project that, besides employing some locals, provides a steady source of income for farmers who rent out their buffalo instead of selling them. They offer a tour of the factory for 50,000 KIP, or you can simply buy their products, the ice cream isn’t bad at all! The other stop is the butterfly park; I haven’t been there but I was told it’s really nice, and admission costs 40,000 KIP.

One of the smaller waterfalls at Kuang Si.

Pak Ou Cave

It’s a cave along the river north of Luang Prabang (Google Maps) with numerous Buddha statues inside. I haven’t been there so I won’t comment, but even though many guidebooks call it a “must see”, lots of people actually say it’s a farce and there isn’t much to see, the choice is yours. For something more authentic, you could simply take a boat across the river and visit some of the villages on the opposite bank from Luang Prabang.

Where to sleep in Luang Prabang?

I slept at Downtown Backpackers 2, nice common area and breakfast, great price. The only complaint is the size of the dorms which in my case was really modest, they also have private rooms at great prices. Downtown Backpacker seems to have bigger dorms while Smile Luang Prabang is a great alternative.

How to reach Luang Prabang?

Minivans to and from Vang Vieng cost 80,000 KIP and include pick-up at your hostel/hotel, about 5 hours. Vientiane is 10 hours, about 160,000 KIP with pick-up at your hostel/hotel. Nong Khiaw 4 hours, 70,000 KIP with pick-up at your hostel/hotel. There are also connections to many other destinations such as Luang Namtha, Phonsavan, Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai in Thailand, and Hanoi in Vietnam.

Buses and minivans arriving in Luang Prabang stop at the north station, from there to the center near the night market the tuk tuks have a fixed price of 35,000 KIP. Luang Prabang also has a small airport with flights to Vientiane and Hanoi.

Luang Prabang is one of the stations (Google Maps) along the new railway line so there are fast daily connections to Luang Namtha (Nateuy Train station), Vang Vieng and Vientiane. You can purchase train tickets online through 12go.

Morning alms giving in Luang Prabang.

Vang Vieng

The town is part of the classic Laos itinerary and for several years it was the ideal destination for anyone looking for a few days of getting wasted. Right here, the infamous drunk tubing got to the point of killing about thirty people a year. Now things have changed considerably: the town has been “cleaned up” and the atmosphere is decidedly relaxed.

What to do and see in Vang Vieng

Around the city there are literally dozens, if not hundreds, of scenic spots, caves and lagoons. To visit them all is unthinkable so below I list only the sites that I’ve personally visited or that have been recommended to me.

N.b. Virtually all the attractions are on the other side of the river from the city, to cross the main bridge foreigners have to pay 4,000 KIP on foot, 6,000 KIP by bicycle, 10,000 KIP by scooter and 15,000 KIP by dune buggies, whether this is legitimate or not I don’t know but you can easily avoid paying by taking the bridge that’s about 200 meters further north, at this point, you can also cross by scooter and bicycle.

Nam Xay viewpoint.

Lagoon No. 3

Just from the fact that they’re numbered, you can tell there’s no shortage of options when it comes to lagoons. I met a Swedish couple who had visited all the lagoons from 1 to 5, and this was their favorite. I’ve only been to this one, so I won’t comment on the others, but it’s actually nice: admission costs 20,000 KIP, there are platforms to jump from, pool noodles to float around on, a restaurant, and you can even play bocce. I strongly recommend visiting the cave not far away, it’s really long and fun to explore, and there’s an Ariadne’s thread to follow that leads to a small pond at the end of the route. If possible, bring a headlamp with you, or at least your phone.

This is the location of the lagoon. I went there by scooter; the last stretch of road isn’t in great condition and is probably best avoided if you don’t have at least a bit of riding experience. A tuk tuk, if shared with other travelers, shouldn’t cost much more.

Lagoon No. 3.

Viewpoints

There are many viewpoints. I went up to Nam Xay, nice and not too exhausting, at a brisk pace you can reach the top in about twenty minutes, a great 360-degree view and especially two motorcycles to take really cool photos.

The other viewpoint I visited is Pha Ngeun, a mountain about 4 km from the center that offers the highest viewpoint in the area. There are actually two viewpoints along the way: the first can be reached in about half an hour and is called Silver Cliff, it offers a great view, especially at sunrise, and there’s a dune buggy for the obligatory photos. It’s not the best at sunset, as the sun disappears behind the part of the mountain where the second viewpoint, called Pha Ngeun, is located. We left too late and had to stop at the first one (Silver Cliff), but I imagine the view from up there is great and, above all, you can see the sun set.

On top of Silver Cliff.

Tubing

The experience is totally different compared to years past: back then there were bars one after another and the alcohol levels were really high. Today, to keep the situation from getting out of hand, only three bars a day are allowed to stay open, and the platforms, slides and swings that had caused quite a few deaths and injuries are completely gone.

Basically, it’s now a much more relaxed and less hardcore-party experience: you can still sip a couple of drinks and let the current carry you, but in a “safer” setting. The cost is pretty much standard everywhere, 60,000 KIP for transport and tube rental.

Hot Air Balloon Ride

Apparently Vang Vieng is the cheapest place in the world to take a hot air balloon ride; even during high season the price is around 90$. At the end of March, when I visited the town, the price was advertised at as little as 65$, really cheap when you consider that in Bagan, in Myanmar, they ask about 300$.

I personally haven’t done it but I imagine the views are great considering the lay of the land, and again, if it’s an experience you’d like to have, you’re unlikely to be able to spend less. The flight takes an average of 40 minutes, and at least in high season it’s offered at both sunrise and sunset.

Finally, if you haven’t had enough of temples yet, you can check out Wat That, Wat Kang and Wat Si Sou Mang around town, and if you’re missing a good pizza, head to pizzeria il tavolo.

Vang Vieng from a hot air balloon.

Where to sleep in Vang Vieng?

Freedom View Hostel, a great hostel, extremely clean and really cheap, right in the center, with friendly and helpful staff, highly recommended.

How to reach Vang Vieng?

From Vientiane it’s about 3-4 hours, 50,000 KIP. From Luang Prabang it’s about 5 hours, 80,000 KIP. Vang Vieng is one of the stations (Google Maps) along the new railway line so there are fast daily connections to Luang Namtha (Nateuy Train station), Luang Prabang and Vientiane. You can purchase train tickets online through 12go.

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Vientiane

Here we are in the capital of Laos, which for many is simply a crossroads to other destinations within the country. In fact, the city doesn’t have much to offer in terms of attractions, and compared to other capitals in the Asian region, such as Bangkok and Hanoi, it doesn’t even have the hustle and bustle that might be appealing to some.

Pha That Stupa.

What to do in Vientiane

As already mentioned there isn’t much to do or see but, if you were to stay in town a day or two, I’d recommend taking a trip to Pha That Luang, also known as the Golden Stupa; if you’re in the area, it’s definitely worth a visit.

Another site that could keep you busy for half a day is Buddha Park. It’s located slightly outside the city but can be easily reached by taxi or even using public transportation by taking bus number 14, ask your hostel/hotel where the nearest stop is. Inside the park are hundreds of Hindu and Buddhist sculptures.

Finally, strolling in the evening on the “waterfront” of the Mekong is really enjoyable, as is eating or just hanging out at the night market.

Buddha Park.

Where to sleep in Vientiane?

Bed Terminal Hostel & Cafe, great hostel downtown, extremely comfortable and spacious beds, super fast wifi, friendly and helpful staff. If you’re looking for a cheaper option check out Hive Hostel. Before returning home I treated myself to a few nights of “luxury” at Viryla Hotel, rooms if shared aren’t even too expensive, if budget allows I highly recommend it, really nice and modern rooms, phenomenal staff.

How to reach Vientiane?

To and from Vientiane there are direct bus and air connections to virtually every major city in the country. There are also direct buses to Hanoi and Hue in Vietnam, Phnom Penh and Siem Reap in Cambodia, and Bangkok in Thailand. The airport has many daily flights to major cities in Southeast Asia. Vientiane is one of the stations (Google Maps) along the new railway line so there are fast daily connections to Luang Namtha (Nateuy Train station), Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng. You can purchase train tickets online through 12go.

Phonsavan

Phonsavan is the capital of Xieng Khouang province in central Laos, a crossroads for anyone who wants to visit the Plain of Jars.

What to do and see in Phonsavan

I haven’t personally visited the city because it’s really far away from most other destinations, but if you’re fascinated by archaeology or the role Laos played during the Vietnam War, the city is definitely worth a visit.

The Plain of Jars

The Plain of Jars consists of about 90 archaeological sites. About the civilization that created these jars and their use very little is known which makes it extremely mysterious. Of the many sites, Jar Site 1 is considered the most impressive and accessible; it’s only 7 km from the city and can therefore be easily reached by scooter, followed by Site 2 and Site 3. The latter are located slightly further away and apparently the road isn’t in very good condition but still doable by scooter. The entrance fee is 15,000 KIP.

On the other hand, if you’re interested in the events of the Vietnam War, the Secret War, and the issue related to unexploded ordnance, you can visit Uxo information center and the Mag Visitors Center.

N.b. The region was one of the most bombed during the Secret War, every year numerous people die from unexploded bombs, so if you decide to explore less-traveled areas, it’s strongly recommended to avoid walking off trails and roads.

The Plain of Jars.

How to reach Phonsavan?

Unfortunately the town is far from the other tourist destinations in the country and requires many hours of travel, without necessarily offering a whole lot to see. In any case, there are direct connections to Vientiane as well as Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng, so, if you want, you could include it as an intermediate stop between Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng. There are also flights to Vientiane and Luang Prabang.

Where to sleep in Phonsavan?

Nice Guesthouse and Sipanya Guesthouse seem like good value for money.

Thakhek

This city on the banks of the Mekong is nothing exceptional, but it has become a popular destination since travelers began using it as a base for what’s now called the “Thakhek Loop”: a multi-day road trip that’s generally completed by scooter/motorbike and culminates with a visit to Konglor Cave, an extremely impressive 7-km-long navigable cave.

Konglor Cave, when the water level is too low.

What to do and see in Thakhek

Nothing special to report in town. You can walk along the river and maybe check out the Wat Nabo temple. In the evening you absolutely have to try the Six Friends restaurant, frequented by tourists and locals, the food is great and all dishes cost only 10,000 KIP, highly recommended!

The Thakhek Loop

The loop can technically be completed in three days and two nights, but personally I recommend staying at least three nights. If you want, you could even stretch it by a few more days if you take it slow. Almost everyone, me included, does the loop by scooter, but I’ve met travelers who rented a car with a group of friends; the roads are mostly in excellent condition, so if you don’t feel like getting around on two wheels, it’s still an option.

Let’s start with scooter rental. The two main stores are Wang Wang and Mad Monkey, the former has older scooters and is cheaper, while the latter has newer vehicles but is more expensive, we of course opted for the cheaper option by renting scooters from Wang Wang and in all honesty they were in very good condition, mine had only 18,000 km.

Me, my two travel companions and our mean machines.

Also, one of the guys I traveled with fell off, breaking some of the scooter’s plastic parts, and I have to say the owner was really honest about the cost of the damage, despite having our passports, which in Southeast Asia often turns into blackmail. The price varies depending on the scooter you choose, starting from 35,000 KIP a day for Chinese 100cc semi-automatics and going all the way up to proper dirt bikes. We went for 110cc Yamaha semi-automatics at 60,000 KIP a day.

Below is the itinerary I personally followed. I think it’s a good compromise, but as I said, you could shorten or lengthen the timing as you like.

Day 1 of the loop

The first day is the one that can vary the most depending on preference. We headed to Paseum cave only to find that you can only reach the entrance, while to explore the cave you’d need to rent kayaks. Not far away is Buddha Cave, which, however, doesn’t seem to be anything exceptional.

Leaving a little late and with one of my two traveling mates having already ended up on the ground with the resulting first aid and more time lost, we decided to drive to the Song Sa Waterfall, really pretty, I recommend going up the stream to the base of the main waterfall, super fun!

Song Sa Waterfall (Tad Song Souk).

Alternatively, you could spend the morning exploring the Tham Nang Ene and Xien Liap caves, swimming in the river at Tha Falang or maybe doing some climbing at Green Climbers Home, whose official website you can check out; you could spend several days just here.

We ended the day with this viewpoint where there’s a nice view of the lake and a small bar serving drinks. An alternative is the so-called Sanseda Viewpoint.

We spent the night at Sabaidee Guesthouse in the village of Thalang where a lot of people spend the first night of the loop but even here there’s no shortage of alternatives, there are numerous guesthouses in the previous villages and also in Thalang, such as for example Phosy Thalang Guesthouse.

Day 1 sunset.

Day 2 of the loop

The first few hours of driving are extremely pleasant. The road runs along the shores of the lake and there are several opportunities to take some photos. The first real attraction is Dragon Cave (Mangkone Cave), admission costs 20,000 KIP. From here we continue to Cool Springs, again the entrance costs 20,000 KIP but I assure you it’s worth it, crystal clear water and extremely refreshing.

Cool springs.

After swimming, head to Khoun Kham village where you’ll spend the night. Along the way there are two nice viewpoints (1 and 2) once you get to the village, the two recommended guesthouses are Sanhak Guest House and Khounthavy Guest House.

Leave your things at the guesthouse and go watch the sunset from the Limestone Peaks Lookout, a beautiful view point, complete with a really fancy bar and restaurant, where you don’t have to order anything, though.

Limestone Peaks.

Day 3 of the loop

Today you finally visit Konglor Cave, but first I recommend stopping at Tham Nam Non Cave, which is also a really impressive cave, and admission is free. The turnoff isn’t well signposted: there’s a measly blue sign on the left just before a bridge, more or less at this point. Ride to the end of the dirt road, then follow the path along the rock face to the right until you find the cave entrance.

Entrance to Tham Nam Non cave.

Then continue to Konglor Cave, leave your things at the guesthouse, we slept at Thong Dam Guesthouse, have something to eat at Konglor Restaurant, nice ambiance, delicious food, super nice owners, and finally head to the cave entrance at the end of the road.

Admission to the cave includes the boat tour and costs 200,000 KIP, but I assure you it’s worth every single kip: the cave is truly impressive, over 100 meters high in places and a whole 7 km long! You navigate for about an hour, with a short walk among stalactites and stalagmites, and when you come out on the other side there’s a sort of makeshift village with a couple of restaurants, where you can stop for up to two hours before making the return trip.

Day 4 of the loop

On the last day of the loop we simply drove back to Thakhek, but if you want, with a little detour, you can go swimming in this lagoon. In our case we lacked the desire and the weather wasn’t the best.

Since there isn’t much to see on the last day, I met a couple who brought their scooter on board the boat for an extra fee. Emerging on the other side, they found a road to Thalang, allowing them to visit some places they missed on the first day while returning to Thakhek.

Walking path inside Konglor Cave.

Where to sleep in Thakhek?

Bed & Bike, a really nice and clean hostel, friendly and helpful staff with lots of information about the loop, great breakfast included in the price. I recommend booking in advance as they have few beds and it’s pretty much always full. Naga Hostel and La casa are two great alternatives, but slightly more expensive.

How to reach Thakhek?

From Vientiane, to the north, it’s 7 hours, there are both regular buses and VIP buses. From the south, Savannakhet is about three hours away, while from Pakse it’s about 6-7 hours, I recommend taking the VIP bus as it leaves from the city center, to take the regular bus you’d have to go to the north station paying a tuk tuk and it would cost you more.

Savannakhet

Savannakhet, also simply known as “Savan,” with a population of 120,000, is the second largest city in the country and during the French colonial period was an important port. To this day there remain some examples of colonial buildings concentrated especially around Talat Yen Plaza and the nearby St. Theresa Church.

Other sites of interest are the That Ing Hang Stupa which, however, is located outside the city and you should therefore rent a scooter or take a taxi; admission costs 5,000 KIP. Wat Sainyaphum, meanwhile, is in the center and admission is free.

Other than that, there isn’t much to do or see, and for this reason the town gets little international tourism. However, if you want to break up the trip between Thakhek and Pakse, or you’re arriving from or continuing your trip to Thailand (the second Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge is located here), then maybe you can stop for a day or two.

On the streets of Savannakhet.

Where to sleep in Savannakhet?

Sala Thongyon is an excellent guesthouse offering decently priced bungalows not far from downtown.

How to reach Savannakhet?

From Thakhek it’s about 2-3 hours by bus. Pakse is about 5 hours away. There’s a regular service between Mukdahan (Thailand) and Savannakhet with departures about every half hour.

Pakse

Yet another town along the banks of the Mekong, somewhat like Thakhek, the town itself doesn’t have much to offer, the only noteworthy temple probably being Wat Luang. The town is, however, the ideal base for doing the Pakse Loop.

Unfortunately, I didn’t have the chance to complete this circuit because of the coronavirus emergency. Many accommodations were already closed, and after staying in town a couple of days to figure out what to do, I decided to reach the 4000 islands as soon as possible so that I’d have a nice place to spend my isolation.

In any case below I outline what’s broadly the itinerary across the Bolaven Plateau.

The Pakse Loop

As for scooters, Miss Noy Motorbike seems to be the agency with the best reviews but it’s worth asking around if you’re looking for the absolute best price, along the main road there are several rentals such as Lao Go Car.

Wat Phu is technically not part of the classic Pakse Loop but, considering that it’s only 40 km from the city and is a UNESCO site, it’s probably worth taking a small detour and visiting this archaeological site consisting of a complex of Hindu temples. From here you could simply head back to Pakse to spend the night, or start the loop proper.

Wat Phu.

Day 1 of the Pakse Loop

Start the day by heading to the Tad Phasouam waterfall, from here many stop at the coffee plantation where the owner Mr. Vieng offers guided tours (15,000 KIP) and if you want you can spend the night in the guesthouse, although normally you continue to Tad Lo village to visit the waterfall of the same name and spend the night.

Day 2 of the Pakse Loop

The first stop on day two is the Katu ethnic village near Tad Lo, where Captain Hook offers guided tours that apparently vary every day. During these tours you’re told about the “bizarre” traditions of this village; the tours start every day at 9:30 and 13:30. I’ll leave you to the reviews, because I think it’s absolutely worth it.

At this point you head to Tad Faed waterfall, or directly to the more impressive Tad Tayicseua where you spend the night.

Tad Phasouam waterfall.

Day 3 of the Pakse Loop

It’s advisable to spend a second night here and spend the day exploring the many waterfalls in the surrounding area. There are seven in total and you can easily move around on foot, following trails connecting all the waterfalls.

Day 4 of the Pakse Loop

On the fourth and last day of the loop you visit the two most beautiful waterfalls on the itinerary, Tad Fane in particular appears in many photos of the region and is really picturesque, the other is Tad Gneuang Waterfall. From here you return to Pakse.

Tad Fane waterfall.

Where to sleep in Pakse?

Sanga Hostel is great both for sleeping and for eating; the guy at reception speaks good English and helps you with everything you need, including scooter rental.

How to reach Pakse?

As mentioned earlier, if you’re coming from Thakhek or Savannakhet I recommend the VIP bus as it gets to the city center and you can easily walk from there. It’s 6-7 hours from Thakhek and 2-3 hours from Savannakhet. Si Phan Don is about three hours away, minivans cost 65,000 KIP and include the boat to Don Det.

Si Phan Don (4000 islands)

This archipelago of islands lies right in the middle of the Mekong, in the far south of Laos, on the border with Cambodia. There may not be exactly four thousand islands, but I assure you there are really a lot of them; some are uninhabited and completely submerged during the rainy season. Of all the islands, the main ones are Don Kong, Don Som, Don Det and Don Khon.

N.b. There are no ATMs on the islands so make sure you have enough cash before you get on the boat.

Don Khon Island.

What to do and see in Si Phan Don

Let’s start by saying that although several islands are inhabited, the fact of the matter is that the vast majority of travelers just visit Don Det. In fact, this is the most developed island where most of the guest houses are located, followed by Don Khon connected to Don Det by a bridge. The other islands are much more rural and see very few tourists.

Taking for granted that you could simply spend your days lazing in the hammock of your Mekong-view bungalow reading a good book, here are some things to do at the 4000 islands.

Li Phi Falls

These are a series of really impressive waterfalls located on Don Khon Island and can be easily reached on foot or by bicycle. The entrance to the falls has been completely free for some time now and there are a series of viewpoints from which the various waterfalls can be observed, really impressive even during the dry season. This is the location.

Part of the Li Phi falls.

Tad Khone Pa Soi Waterfalls

These waterfalls are on the other side of Don Khon from Li Phi, at this location. They’re definitely less impressive than Li Phi but still pretty; admission is free, but you can leave a donation if you want. Unlike at Li Phi, swimming here isn’t dangerous at all, and there’s a small beach where you can spend a few hours relaxing.

Dolphin spotting tour and Khone Phapheng waterfall

I didn’t personally take this tour, which is advertised pretty much everywhere on the islands. It lasts a full day and includes food and a visit to the Khone Phapheng waterfall, the largest in Southeast Asia by volume of water. After visiting the waterfall, you get on a boat to try to spot freshwater dolphins, which are now extremely rare – fewer than 80 live in the entire Mekong. The tour costs around 200,000 KIP. If you want, you can visit just the waterfall or join only the dolphin-spotting tour for a lower price.

Khone Phapheng waterfalls.

How to reach Si Phan Don?

From Pakse there are minivans with pick-up at your hostel/hotel for 65,000 KIP, including the boat ticket to Don Det. From Cambodia there are direct minivans from Kratie and a daily bus from Phnom Penh that takes about 7 hours to reach its destination.

Where to sleep in Si Phan Don?

I was based in Don Det, a choice many people make. In general, the northern part of the island, where the pier and the main village are, is the liveliest, with numerous guesthouses, bars and restaurants (Emily’s noodle in Don Khon is recommended), which close early anyway, so the atmosphere always stays absolutely relaxed.

I spent a week away from everything and everyone, staying in one of the bungalows at River garden, in the south of the island near the bridge that connects Don Det to Don Khon. The owner was really kind and helpful, they have a nice restaurant on the banks of the Mekong, and in low season I paid 40,000 KIP a night for my private bungalow with bathroom. It’s about 40 minutes on foot from the pier and the main village, which wasn’t a problem at all for me, but if you’re looking for something closer, my friends went for nice bungalows at Mr.ky guest house, a stone’s throw from the center, with a Mekong view, for 50,000 KIP a night. A nice hostel recommended by one of the blog’s readers is Easy Go Backpackers. If you’re looking for air conditioning in your room and a nice pool, Little Eden offers competitive prices during low season.

Suggested itineraries in Laos

Visiting all the places described would take almost two months. Considering that many people don’t have that much time available, below I list some itineraries of one or more weeks that cover the main tourist destinations and can be used as a starting point to build an itinerary based on your own interests and in light of what I’ve described so far.

One-week itinerary in Laos

With only one week available, and considering that many people enter overland from Thailand, I think the itinerary is pretty much set and should more or less look like the following. I include the slow boat that so many choose, but if you want you could save a day by taking the bus to Luang Prabang, the choice is yours. If you start your trip from Vientiane, you can simply follow the itinerary in reverse.

Pakbeng (1 night)

Day 1:

Slow boat from Huay Xai to Pakbeng.

Luang Prabang (3 nights)

Day 2:

Slow boat from Pakbeng to Luang Prabang.

Day 3:

Explore the city, Phousi Hill, the royal palace, Uxo Museum etc etc.

Day 4:

Day at Kuang Si Falls, dairy farm and butterfly garden.

Vang Vieng (2 nights)

Day 5:

Transfer from Luang Prabang, visit a lagoon in the afternoon and perhaps a viewpoint for sunset.

Day 6:

Tubing, hot air balloon ride, lagoons, viewpoints, the choice is yours.

Vientiane (1 night)

Day 7:

Transfer to Vientiane.

10-day itinerary in Laos

With a couple of extra days to spare, I recommend following the same seven-day itinerary just described, moving at a more leisurely pace or perhaps adding the Gibbon Experience at Huay Xai if it’s within your budget.

Two-week itinerary in Laos

Two weeks gives the flexibility to add a few more destinations in the itinerary. Personally I’d opt for the Gibbon Experience (always budget permitting), Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoy doing the following. Especially if you decide to do the Gibbon Experience I recommend taking the overnight bus to Luang Prabang so you can save time.

Huay Xai (3 nights)

Day 1:

First day of the Gibbon Experience.

Day 2:

Second day of the Gibbon Experience.

Day 3:

Third day of the Gibbon Experience. Night bus to Luang Prabang.

Luang Prabang (3 nights)

Day 4:

Explore the city, Phousi Hill, the royal palace, Uxo Museum etc etc.

Day 5:

Day at Kuang Si Falls, dairy farm and butterfly garden.

Nong Khiaw (2 nights)

Day 6:

Transfer from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw. Climb up to one of the viewpoints for sunset.

Day 7:

Other scenic spots, caves, kayaks, ethnic villages, the choice is yours.

Muang Ngoy (2 nights)

Day 8:

Boat from Nong Khiaw to Muang Ngoy. Climb to one of the viewpoints for sunset.

Day 9:

Explore villages around Muang Ngoy, rent a kayak, relax, the choice is yours.

Vang Vieng (3 nights)

Day 10:

Boat from Muang Ngoy to Nong Khiaw, minibus to Luang Prabang, minibus to Vang Vieng (you have to change stations and if you arrive late you run the risk of missing the last bus of the day).

Day 11:

Tubing, hot air balloon ride, lagoons, scenic spots, the choice is yours.

Day 12:

Tubing, hot air balloon ride, lagoons, scenic spots, the choice is yours.

Vientiane (2 nights)

Day 13:

Transfer to Vientiane. Buddha Park and Pha That Luang.

Day 14:

Return home.

Three-week itinerary in Laos

With twenty days to spare in my opinion you have two options. Focus exclusively on the north of the country, following the itinerary just described more slowly and adding destinations such as: Luang Namtha, Phonsavan and Viang Xai especially if you plan to continue the journey to Vietnam.

Or follow the two-week itinerary just described and then devote a week to the south of the country, choosing between one of the two loops (Thakhek and Pakse) plus a few days of relaxing in Si Phan Don. This version of the itinerary is especially recommended if you plan to continue your trip to Cambodia.

Four-week itinerary in Laos

A month in the country is enough time to explore both north and south without too much hurry. In the map below you see what should be a rough itinerary you can follow.

How to get around in Laos

Laos is one of the poorest and least developed countries in the region, which has an impact on infrastructure, especially in rural areas where roads aren’t exactly in great condition and often need to be paved. Major connections between popular tourist destinations have improved dramatically in recent years and, in my experience, provide relatively fast travel; in addition, the situation is improving rapidly mainly due to Chinese investment.

Buses in Laos

Minivans are by far the fastest and cheapest way to get around Laos. Old guides or articles might suggest getting around by boat along the rivers, but the reality is that the only long-distance boat trip still available is the one from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang. Many other connections have been cut off by the construction of dams, and in any case the roads have improved enormously, making overland travel faster.

On some routes so-called VIP buses are offered. Don’t expect anything special: by our standards, these buses are the equivalent of old buses, with the only advantage, compared to the so-called “local buses”, of having air conditioning, a bit more legroom and generally being faster, because they don’t stop in every village to let people on and off.

For overnight routes there are also “sleeping buses”: generally comfortable since you can lie down completely, but the bunks are shared, so unless you’re traveling as a couple, you might have to share the “bed” with a stranger!

Typical minivan in Laos.

Flights in Laos

If budget isn’t an issue, domestic flights can save you quite a bit of time. The national airline Lao Airlines has a monopoly, and given the low air traffic, prices aren’t exactly cheap.

From the capital Vientiane there are daily flights to numerous other cities in Laos, such as Luang Prabang, Savannakhet, Pakse, Phonsavan, and Luang Namtha but also Cessna flights to more remote destinations such as Phongsali, Sam Neua, and Sainyabuli.

Finally, there are international flights to other capitals in the region such as Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Hanoi mainly from Vientiane but also from Luang Prabang.

Taxi in Laos

As always in Asia, it’s a good idea to agree on the price before getting in and to start from the assumption that they’re ripping you off; unfortunately, apps like Grab and Uber don’t work here yet. In my experience, except for trips to and from bus stations outside town, tuk tuks seem to have a fixed price per person and are absolutely unwilling to bargain; there’s probably a “boss” making sure everyone sticks to the cartel.

Motorcycles in Laos

A bit like in Vietnam, this is a really popular way to get around the country. Many people, in fact, cross the border from Vietnam on their motorbikes and continue their road trip here in Laos too, since there are no particular regulations when crossing the border. I don’t have much info on this, but I’ve written quite a bit about it in my guide to Vietnam.

Trains in Laos

There’s a new railway line which started operating in late 2021 that offers connections from Vientiane to the border with China. The main stations of interest to travelers are Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang, and Luang Namtha (Nateuy Train station). Currently, train tickets can only be purchased online through 12go. A map of the train line can be found on this page.

Scooter rented in Luang Namtha.

Backpacking Laos: costs

How much does a trip to Laos cost?

Despite not being on the level of Myanmar and Vietnam, I personally believe that Laos is still one of the cheapest countries in the region or at least cheaper than southern Thailand for example. Basically, by traveling cheaply you should have no problem with a budget of 20 euros a day.

Cost of accommodation in Laos

Private rooms or bungalows are fairly cheap; outside destinations such as Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng and Vientiane you can easily find something nice for less than 10 euros.

Often, helped by the end of the high season, I managed to pay around 5 euros; in the towns mentioned above I slept in hostels, paying no more than 6 euros a night, often with breakfast included.

Cost of transportation in Laos

Overland transport is really cheap: as a general rule you pay 1-2€ per hour of travel. What I find unusually expensive is the tuk tuk ride from the bus stations outside town; there’s a sort of mafia that seems to guarantee a fixed price that doesn’t reflect the actual cost of the trip. Finally, as mentioned earlier, domestic flights aren’t exactly cheap, with fares generally starting from 100$ for relatively short flights, even when booked in advance.

Cost of food in Laos

Food, if you’re not too fussy about restaurants, usually costs around 1-3 euros per dish, and even in nicer restaurants you’ll rarely spend more than 5 euros.

Laap, a typical Laotian dish (minced meat with spices and mint).

Other costs (withdrawals and sim cards)

Let’s start with the cost of withdrawals, which unfortunately are unavoidable even when using the best travel cards. You have to deal with local bank fees: no ATM in Laos lets you withdraw for free, and many have a limit of just 1 million KIP (about 100 euros) per transaction. The best bank by far is BCEL, which lets you withdraw 1.5 million (about 150 euros) for a fee of 20,000 KIP (about 2 euros).

As for SIM cards, Unitel is the best provider by far; the 4G SIM costs between 10,000 and 20,000 KIP, while thirty-day packages cost about 10,000 KIP per GB.

If you have a phone that supports eSIMs and you want the convenience of being online right away without having to buy a local SIM, then I recommend using a service like the ones offered by Airalo and Ubigi. If you go for this option, though, there are at least a couple of things to consider. First of all, with rare exceptions, data costs much more than it would with a local SIM; secondly, their local partner isn’t always the one with the best coverage in the country.

Basically, I think most travelers would be better off buying a local SIM (or maybe trying to buy the eSIM of a local provider), but I suggest you think it over for yourself, as there’s no shortage of exceptions. For example, when I visited Japan, the plan offered by Ubigi was cheaper than any local SIM I could buy without proving I was a resident.

Backpacking Laos: safety

The security situation in Laos largely mirrors that of the rest of Southeast Asia, i.e. a country where you can easily travel alone without any problems, with an extremely low level of crime and violence compared to other regions, such as South America.

Obviously you need to use common sense, as anywhere else in the world, but by following my tips, which apply everywhere, I doubt you’ll have any problems.

The only issue worth highlighting is the very strong police corruption. I’ll give you two examples, but I assure you I’ve heard all sorts of stories: two French girls caught smoking a joint on the terrace of their hostel (so someone was definitely in on it) were taken to the police station, threatened with prison and let go only after paying a whopping 400€ each, following an initial demand of 800€ each.

Another example is an Italian guy I was waiting with at Vientiane airport to catch a flight: he went out to smoke a cigarette in the parking lot and a policeman rushed over, demanding to fine him 40€. Since he didn’t have any documents or his wallet on him, the policeman confiscated his GoPro pending payment. Unfortunately, these episodes don’t seem to be rare at all. My advice is to eliminate the problem at the root by respecting the rules and, even though paying is often the quickest and most practical solution, try not to let them walk all over you and stand up for your rights: confiscating passports and personal belongings in exchange for summary fines is absolutely illegal.

Finally, dress appropriately, avoid tank tops and excessively short pants when entering temples, and don’t forget to take off your shoes!

Are you planning a trip to Laos? Check out these posts:

Which travel backpack to choose

What to bring on your trip

Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!

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