El Salvador Travel Guide
El Salvador is the smallest but also most populous country in Central America. Often skipped even within a long trip to the region, in truth it has much to offer in every respect, pristine forests, beaches and archaeological sites.
Similarly to neighbouring Honduras, it is labelled as “too dangerous,” but the situation has improved a lot in recent years and the local people are among the kindest and most hospitable in the region.
I spent a couple of weeks backpacking through El Salvador, and in this guide you will find a lot of useful tips to help you better plan your trip.
Quick menu
- When to visit El Salvador
- Documents and vaccinations to enter El Salvador
- What to do and see in El Salvador
- Travel itinerary in El Salvador
- How to get around El Salvador
- Backpacking El Salvador: costs
- Backpacking El Salvador: safety
Suchitoto.
When to visit El Salvador
There are two distinct seasons in El Salvador:
The rainy season, which runs from May to November, is characterised by thunderstorms concentrated mainly in the afternoon and usually lasting no more than a few hours. The warmest and wettest months are March and April.
The dry season runs from November to April and is generally the best time to go to El Salvador, but obviously also the most expensive and crowded.
I visited the country during the month of August, and honestly, the brief afternoon downpours were never a big problem.
Documents and vaccinations to enter El Salvador
Most passport holders receive a 90-day tourist visa upon entering the country.
Note: El Salvador, along with Guatemala, Honduras, and Nicaragua, is part of CA-4, an agreement allowing a maximum stay of 90 days within these four countries. For example, if you spend 40 days in Nicaragua, then 20 days in Honduras, and another 20 days in El Salvador before entering Guatemala, you will only be granted a 10-day visa upon entry to Guatemala.
You can renew your visa for an additional 90 days for the entire CA-4 region by crossing the border to Mexico or Belize to the north, or Costa Rica to the south, either by land or by air, even for just a day, performing a “visa run.”
Alternatively, you can renew your visa for another 90 days at an immigration office in one of the four countries. This process can be done only once, and the cost varies by country.
El Salvador officially requires vaccination against yellow fever if you have recently been in an at-risk country (much of South America and Central Africa). While this check seems discretionary, it is advisable to get the vaccination if coming from one of these countries to avoid potential issues. Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B vaccinations are always recommended.
Abandoned old art school, Santa Ana.
What to do and see in El Salvador
In this guide, you will often find references to prices. For clarity, note that the official currency in El Salvador has been the U.S. dollar since 2001. At the time of this publication, the exchange rate was 1€ = 1.07$. For the current exchange rate, please refer to this page.
As you can see from the map, El Salvador is a small country, with all its main attractions concentrated in the west, ensuring that travel distances are never too long.
N.b. Several times throughout the guide, you will find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. Upgrade to the pro version if you want offline navigation directly from the Alltrails app. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the site’s desktop version in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to organic maps, which is by far one of my favourite travel apps.
San Salvador
The capital of El Salvador, San Salvador, is the second largest city in Central America after Guatemala City. The city itself offers limited attractions, still bearing the marks of a long civil war and devastating earthquakes in 1986 and 2001. However, there are some interesting destinations nearby.
What to do and see in San Salvador
Once considered a place to avoid, the area surrounding Plaza Gerardo Barrios (Google Maps) and Plaza Morazán (Google Maps) in the historical center is now a nice place for a leisurely stroll. Take advantage of the opportunity to admire landmarks like the national palace (Google Maps) and the iconic national theater of San Salvador (Google Maps). Don’t miss Iglesia el Rosario (Google Maps), a unique architectural gem.
For an upscale neighborhood experience, head to Colonia San Benito (Google Maps), part of the Zona Rosa. While it may not offer many specific attractions, its pleasant atmosphere makes it an enjoyable area to explore on foot.
Puerta del diablo
Puerta del Diablo (Google Maps) is a sacred site not far from San Salvador and was used in the past by the Maya to perform sacrificial rites. The climb is steep but not too long. From the top you have a great view of the capital and some volcanoes in the distance.
To reach Puerta del Diablo: from downtown take bus number 12 that runs along Avenida Cuscatlan, about 40 minutes, $0.30.
Volcan el Boqueron
Volcan el Boqueron also known as San Salvador Volcano (Google Maps) is a giant volcanic crater about 5 km wide and 558 m deep. Admission to the park costs $2 and there are a few well-marked trails to follow. The main one (All Trails) leads to a number of scenic viewpoints and is not too long (about one hour). It is also possible to descend into the crater if desired.
The bus that you need to take leaves from a side street near the “Plaza Marilot” shopping center. It runs every twenty minutes and costs $0.50. The bus will drop you off about 1 kilometer from the park entrance.
Volcano Boquerón.
Joya de Cerén
Joya de Cerén (Google Maps) is an archaeological site named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It is an extraordinarily well-preserved Mayan village thanks to a volcanic eruption that submerged it in ash more than 1,400 years ago and therefore called “The Pompei of the Americas.”
About ten buildings have been unearthed, and honestly an hour is more than enough time to visit the site. Admission is $10, closed Mondays.
The site is located about halfway between San Salvador and Santa Ana and can be visited in one day arriving from both cities, or, to save time, you could visit it while transferring between cities by leaving your luggage at the entrance.
From the West terminal in San Salvador take the bus to Opico, about an hour and a half, $0.50. While from Santa Ana take bus 201 or 202 direct to San Salvador, ask the driver to get off at the intersection leading to Joya de Ceren and wait for bus 108 coming from San Salvador.
Joya de Ceren.
Where to sleep in San Salvador?
La zona Hostel in Zona Rosa is a good hostel although not cheap.
El Tunco
Let’s face it, El Salvador does not have a noteworthy coastline for anyone who is looking for white beaches and crystal clear water, but there are plenty of opportunities for anyone who is looking for good surfing conditions or learning to surf.
The most popular destination among travelers is undoubtedly El Tunco; I have not personally visited as I am not an avid surfer. But if you are looking for a surfing location with great nightlife then look no further.
A friend of mine had suggested that I visit the nearby Tamanique Falls in case I decided to pass through El Tunco. Here you can find a detailed guide to El Tunco.
El Tunco.
Santa Ana
It is the second largest city in El Salvador and by far the tourist capital of the country with plenty of activities to do in the surrounding area.
What to do and see in Santa Ana
Santa Ana, unlike San Salvador, retains several colonial buildings. Its historic center is worth exploring for a couple of hours, particularly the cathedral (Google Maps) and theater (Google Maps), both of which overlook the main square.
I also recommend that you check out the now-abandoned old art school (Google Maps) located in front of Parque Colon. Admission is free, just register at the entrance.
Santa Ana Volcano
Undoubtedly, Santa Ana Volcano is the top attraction, featuring an incredible turquoise sulfuric lake within its crater. As the highest peak in the country, Santa Ana Volcano also offers breathtaking panoramic views from its summit.
The volcano is within Cerro Verde National Park and can easily be reached with public transport. Once at the park entrance, however, one must join the police-escorted tour that leaves every morning at 11:00 a.m. (in the past there have been robberies along the trail). The hike is not particularly strenuous if in reasonably good health, about an hour and a half to climb, a scant hour to descend (All Trails). Since it is a single tour that everyone is required to participate in, try to avoid weekends.
The bus from Santa Ana goes directly to the entrance and departs daily at 7:30 a.m. from Vencedora Terminal (Google Maps), bus number 248, about 2 hours, $0.90. Entrance to Cerro Verde Park costs $3, $1 to be paid to the guide and $1 to cross private property, $6.80 for the entire excursion. The bus returns to Santa Ana at 3 pm.
It was brought to my attention by a reader (thank you Marco!) that an additional cost has been added, now foreigners, in addition to the costs just mentioned, have to pay $6 at the forestry station (Estación guardaparque) while locals and residents of the country enjoy a discount ($3).
Santa Ana Volcano lake.
Ruta de las flores
It is a route that passes through several really pretty mountain villages surrounded by coffee plantations and pristine forest. Many people decide to spend a few days stopping along the various stages but it can easily be done in a day by doing the following.
Start with a bus to Juayua (ideally on Sunday when there is a “food festival”). Visit the nearby La Calera waterfall (Google Maps), which is about 2 km outside the village. Return to the village and take the bus to Apaneca where you can visit the nearby Laguna Verde (Google Maps), there are pickups that go back and forth for $0.25).
From Apaneca you then take the bus to Concepcion de Ataco, enjoy the village and the cute little main square (Google Maps), from here you then continue to the last stop, Ahuachapan, before returning to Santa Ana.
La Calera waterfall.
Tazumal
Tazumal Archaeological Park (Google Maps) is undoubtedly one of the most impressive sites in El Salvador and the largest Mayan temple in the region although we are a far cry from sites like Tikal, Copan or Teotihuacan.
Admission to the park, which is open Monday through Sunday from 9am to 4pm, costs only $5 and includes the small museum attached. It can be easily reached by bus from Santa Ana by taking bus 218, about half an hour, $0.30.
Finally, Lake Coatepeque (Google Maps), located halfway between the volcano and the city of Santa Ana, is another popular destination that I have not yet visited.The lake occupies a caldera of an extinct volcano and, based on the photos I’ve seen, it appears to be quite picturesque. You can find a complete guide at this page.
Tazumal.
Where to sleep in Santa Ana?
Hostal Casa Verde is a hostel that everyone recommends. When I was in Santa Ana it was sold out and I opted for Casa Frolaz…I couldn’t be happier! The two brothers who run the hostel are wonderful people. One afternoon they invited me to a friend’s house to taste different types of coffee and the next day to dinner at other friends’ houses. Fantastic!
How to reach Santa Ana?
From Occidente terminal in San Salvador, there are buses about every 15 minutes. If you are coming from Guatemala take a look at the How to Cross the El Salvador Guatemala Border section below.
Suchitoto
Lost in the mountains of El Salvador, “Suchi”-as it is called by locals-is probably the best-preserved example of colonial architecture in the entire country.
The village is as cute as it is tiny, so a day or two is more than enough. During your stay you could go down to Lake Suchitlan-not particularly spectacular-or visit the nearby Los Tercios waterfall (Google Maps) where there are some interesting rock formations.
Suchitoto.
Where to sleep in Suchitoto?
There are not many options online but there are several guesthouses once you get there. I slept at Posada Blanca Luna, a really nice and extremely cheap private room with a shared bathroom.
How to reach Suchitoto?
From El Salvador take the direct bus 129 from the Oriental terminal, about an hour and a half, $0.90. If, on the other hand, you are coming from the border with Honduras (El Poy) take any direct bus to El Salvador or that goes through Aguilares, where you then have to change buses to Suchitoto.
La Palma
La Palma, near the border with Honduras, is a small town famous because an internationally renowned artist named Fernando Llort spent several years there teaching his style to locals who still largely make their living from art.
I only passed through the town by bus, but it gave me the impression that it was quite nice, with colorful murals adorning every corner. It might be worthwhile to consider stopping for a few hours or even overnight, particularly if you plan to continue your journey to Honduras or vice versa. La Palma is conveniently situated along the main road that connects the two countries, making it an accessible destination.
To conclude the section on what to do and see in El Salvador I point you to this interesting article that explains in detail how to visit El imposible National Park.
La Palma.
If you found this article helpful, please consider purchasing your travel insurance through one of the links on this site, doing so supports my work at no additional cost to you. For EU & UK Residents, i recommend True Traveller. For everyone else i recommend HeyMondo (5% discount). Thanks!
Crossing the border El Salvador Honduras
This is the border to cross if you plan to reach the ruins of Copan. But if you want to cross the border south to Tegucigalpa or directly into Nicaragua, check out this post.
From Terminal de Oriente in San Salvador take bus 119 bound for the border town El Poy, about 4 hours. Once in El Poy, walk across the border and then take a shared taxi to Nueva Ocotepeque (10L) from where there are buses to La Entrada (4 hours, 120L). From La Entrada there are frequent buses to Copan Ruinas (2 hours, 70L). Try to leave early in the morning.
Crossing the border El Salvador Guatemala
From terminal do Santa Ana take bus 236 bound for border city San Cristobal, departing about every 20 minutes, one hour ride. Once across the border there are direct buses to Guatemala city, about 4 hours, 50Q. If you prefer to go directly to Antigua instead take a look here, Santa Ana to Antigua by bus.
N.b. There are also tourist shuttles and international buses that cover these routes but are far more expensive.
Suggested itinerary in El Salvador
If you are not an avid surfer in my opinion the coast can be skipped and you can simply focus on San Salvador and Santa Ana with maybe a night in Suchitoto.
One-week itinerary in El Salvador
While I enjoy exploring countries in-depth, I believe that a week is sufficient to cover El Salvador’s best attractions.
San Salvador (2 nights)
Day 1-2:
Visita the Volcano el Boquerón and La Puerta del Diablo.
Santa Ana (4 nights)
Day 3:
Leave San Salvador with your luggage, visit Joya de Cerén and then continue to Santa Ana.
Day 4:
Go to the Santa Ana Volcano.
Day 5:
Ruta de los Flores.
Day 6:
Tazumal archaeological site.
Suchitoto (1 night)
Day 7:
Explore the streets of Suchitoto.
If you are interested in surfing or a few days at the beach (don’t expect spectacular beaches) then add a couple of days until you complete a 10-day or two-week itinerary.
How to get around El Salvador
Buses in El Salvador
Buses are by far the most convenient and practical way to travel within the country. Local buses are called “chicken buses” , they are basically old school buses from the United States and Canada, they can be very crowded at times but in principle not that bad and most importantly extremely cheap.
Buses are generally safe although remember that as tourists, there is always a risk of being targeted, use common sense and keep an eye on your luggage.
For a look at route schedules to major tourist destinations I recommend this site.
Chicken bus.
Taxis in El Salvador
Taxis are considered safe. Taxi meters are not used so decide on the price before you leave so that you can set the record straight right away and avoid unnecessary arguments.
Hitchhiking in El Salvador
Hitchhiking is considered safe in rural areas where it is common to see people in the back of pickup trucks. Walking down the road in cerro verde park some locals let me ride in the back without even asking.
Backpacking El Salvador: costs
Cost of accommodation in El Salvador
Accommodation is cheap with hostel dorms costing on average between $5 and $10 and private rooms costing $10-15. Not all hostels have kitchens. “Hospedaje” or “posada” are generally small family-run hotels that are often cheaper than hostels.
For good hotels expect to pay around $30 per night.
Cost of food in El Salvador
The food is really cheap, especially for lunch. At local “comedor” you can find a full menu for less than $3. During your stay in El Salvador you should definitely try “pupusas,” a dough made of cornmeal or rice usually filled with beans, meat and cheese, but there are various kinds. The whole thing is cooked on a greased griddle. They are delicious and can be found for less than $0.50 each, eat 2-3 and you will be full!
Pupusas.
Cost of transportation in El Salvador
Buses are extremely cheap, in my opinion the cheapest in all of Central America along with Nicaragua. With local transportation, so-called “chicken buses,” expect to pay less than $1 per hour of travel time.
While tourist shuttles, for example Ticabus, and long-distance buses to other countries are much more expensive.
Backpacking El Salvador: safety
Is El Salvador safe? In principle yes but somewhat like its neighbours Honduras and Guatemala if you look at the statistics you come to think the exact opposite.
It must be said, however, that all the violence we hear about is mostly related to clashes between the various gangs known as “maras,” hardly having anything to do with tourists or tourist areas in general. This has actually changed a lot in recent years. Mass incarceration has made El Salvador a much safer country.
Of course, as throughout Latin America and beyond, common sense should be used. Avoid walking alone in urban slums especially in the evening, and on the off chance that something happens to you, do not resist for any reason and you will see that you will not have any problems.
Are you planning a trip to El Salvador? Check out these posts:
Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!
If you found this article helpful, please consider purchasing your travel insurance through one of the links on this site, doing so supports my work at no additional cost to you. For EU & UK Residents, i recommend True Traveller. For everyone else i recommend HeyMondo (5% discount). Thanks!
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