Philippines Travel Guide

The Philippines is a tropical paradise in Southeast Asia comprising over 7,000 islands. They are known for breathtaking beaches, crystal clear waters, some of the best diving sites in the world, and the hospitality of the people with whom it is really easy to communicate since English is one of the official languages. The country also has a rich history and culture influenced by its Spanish colonial past.

I spent two months backpacking through the Philippines. Whether you want to do the same or just do some research and then rely on an organized tour, you will find many useful tips and information in this guide to better plan your trip.

Quick menu

• When to visit the Philippines
• Documents and vaccinations to enter the Philippines
• What to do and see in the Philippines
• Suggested itineraries in the Philippines
• How to get around the Philippines
• Backpacking the Philippines: costs
• Backpacking the Philippines: safety

Sohoton National Park.

When to visit the Philippines

The Philippines, like the rest of Southeast Asia, has two distinct seasons: the dry season and the rainy season. 

From a weather point of view, the absolute best time is the dry season that runs from November to April in most parts of the country. December, January and February are the absolute coolest and nicest months. October and May are considered transitional months, and with a little luck you might get some great weather. 

The low season is June to September, during which time rains are more frequent and intense. These are also the months when typhoons hit the country most frequently. Basically, traveling in the Philippines in August is not exactly a great idea. 

However, during my personal visit between February and April, despite it being the dry season, I experienced rain on several days. I’m sure others have enjoyed good weather during the rainy season as well. If possible, I would recommend avoiding the peak typhoon season from August to mid-October.

In conclusion, if you plan to visit the Philippines during Easter week, book your accommodations well in advance. During my Holy Week stay in Siargao, power outages occurred in the evenings due to high electricity demand. Additionally, internet access was unreliable despite having full signal, and ferries were fully booked days ahead of time. Plan accordingly.

Banul Beach, Coron.

Documents and vaccinations to enter the Philippines

Most passport holders receive a free 30-day tourist visa from the moment they enter the country. It is possible to do the classic “visa run,” that is, leave and re-enter the country to get another 30 days but since you have to fly to get there, it is not so practical. 

If you need to stay longer, renewing your visa is really easy and can be done up to a maximum of 16 months. The first “Visa Waiver” renewal is for 29 days after which it can be extended for more months at a time. But it has to be done in time because you need to get the “ACR I-Card.” I renewed my visa for 29 days at the Manila immigration office, paying 3030 PHP, all really easy and relatively fast, in 40 minutes I was in and out. I recommend bringing a pen to fill out the form. In any case, any immigration office is fine, the extension does not have to be done in Manila. There are also rumors that the procedure could soon be completed online, so I recommend inquiring. This is the official immigration website.

Cangbangag Falls, Siquijor.

Officially, the Philippines requires proof of onward travel within the visa validity period. Checks are at the discretion of immigration officers and airlines during check-in. For my flight from Phnom Penh, I was asked for proof of onward travel at the check-in counter. Since I already had my outbound flight, it wasn’t an issue. If you don’t have one, I recommend using a service like onwardticket.

Hepatitis A and B vaccinations are recommended.

Coron Town.

What to do and see in the Philippines

In this guide, prices are often expressed in the local currency. The Philippines’ official currency is called the “Philippine Peso,” abbreviated as “PHP.” The exchange rate, at the time of publication of this article, is €1 = 60 PHP. For the current exchange rate, I suggest you look at this page.

Given the geography of the Philippines, I think it makes sense to divide this section by islands before even talking about destinations within them. For the map below, I applied the same logic.

LUZON

Luzon is the largest and most populous island in the Philippines. It is home to the capital city of Manila and is an important economic and political center. Luzon boasts a variety of landscapes, including mountains, rainforests, and beaches. I personally limited myself to spending a few days upon my arrival in Manila but there are more than a few other interesting destinations that I include to make this guide as complete as possible.

Manila

Manila, the capital of the Philippines, is a bustling metropolis with a rich history and diverse culture. The city is characterized by its unique blend of Spanish colonial architecture and modern skyscrapers, reflecting its complex past and rapid development.

Intramuros.

What to do and see in Manila

For many travelers Manila is simply a forced stop on their trip to the Philippines. I would not advise anyone to disrupt their plans to visit the city but if you are passing through I think it is worth spending a day exploring the old town.

Intramuros

Intramuros is the historic walled area within the city of Manila that was built by the Spanish some 400 years ago as a political and military base in Asia. Among its streets are many well-preserved colonial buildings. San Agustín Church (Google Maps) and Manila Cathedral (Google Maps) are undoubtedly some of the most beautiful Baroque and Romanesque churches found in the capital. Casa Manila (Google Maps) is a nice museum that illustrates the colonial lifestyle of a wealthy family during the Spanish colonization of the Philippines. Admission costs 75 PHP.

Finally, a visit to Intramuros cannot be considered complete without entering Fort Santiago (Google Maps), the place that for years represented the center of power in the city during the colonial era. Inside there is also an interesting museum dedicated to Jose Rizal, a key figure in Philippine nationalism that culminated in independence from the Spanish. Admission costs 75 PHP.

Finally, just outside the walls of Intramuros you can visit Rizal Park (Google Maps), unfortunately it was closed during my visit but it seems like the perfect place to spend a few hours relaxing away from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Plaza de Roma.

Other neighborhoods in the city

Makati (Google Maps) is the city’s financial center and is home to the Philippine Stock Exchange. It has a vibrant nightlife and numerous shopping malls. There are several skyscrapers and modern buildings, and the contrast with the rest of the city is striking. Bonifacio (Google Maps) has a very similar atmosphere.

Malate (Google Maps) is one of the city’s historic districts; its origin dates back to Spanish colonial times, when it was a fishing village. Among the main attractions are a church (Google Maps) and a zoo (Google Maps). Malate is also known for its nightlife, with many bars and restaurants.

Sampaloc (Google Maps) is called University Belt or simply “U-Belt” for the many colleges and universities located within it. It is home to the oldest university in Asia and one of the largest Catholic universities in the world, the University of Santo Tomas which can be visited (Official website).

Fort Santiago.

How to reach Manila?

Most travelers reach Manila by air. Depending on where you decide to stay, you could take the bus offered by UBE Express that connects the airport to various parts of the city, such as Makati, or alternatively take the City Bus Line 2 that connects the airport to the LRT (surface metro). Find more information on the official website. Finally, if you arrive at night, public transportation does not operate, you could simply take a taxi or use Grab. The city is close enough so it should not cost much. The yellow cabs lined up outside the terminal are the official airport taxis; they cost slightly more than the white ones but are considered, for what it’s worth, safer.

Casa Manila entrance.

Where to sleep in Manila?

I slept at Maine City Residences, really cheap single rooms, 24-hour front desk, not far from the airport and convenient access to the LRT. The neighborhood is not the nicest but it was absolutely no problem for me. If you are looking for a real hostel, Crossroads Hostel Manila is a good option but the location is a bit inconvenient in my opinion, NomadsMNL Hostel is very close to the airport and is therefore convenient for anyone just passing through Manila. Finally, Abraham Manila is located in the Makati neighborhood that many travelers seem to prefer.

With Manila ended my short stay in Luzon since I flew to Palawan but for completeness below I include some relatively popular destinations on the island.

Manila Cathedral.

Banaue and Sagada

The Banaue terraces were built between 6,000 and 2,000 years ago and were listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1995. I have been told by some travelers that the town is nothing much but the surrounding landscapes characterized by rice fields are picturesque to say the least. On this page you will find a lot of useful information in case you want to go trekking in and around Banaue.

Sagada, a few hours further north, was described to me as a much prettier and more pleasant town. It too is surrounded by beautiful landscapes and rice terraces but is particularly famous for its iconic hanging coffins. These coffins are part of Kankanaey indigenous burial practices. The coffins are typically reserved for people of high social status, and the height at which they are placed reflects this. On this page you will find useful information in case you want to go trekking in and around Banaue. On this page you will find information on how to visit the famous coffins and more. 

A great way to explore the north of Luzon Island is through the so-called Luzon Loop, a motorbike road trip that is becoming increasingly popular among backpackers.

Mount Taal

Mount Taal with its crater lake is a hike that can be completed on a day trip from Manila. On this page you will find a detailed guide on how to do the hike independently.

Mount Mayon and Ruins of Cagsawa

The town of Legazpi in Albay province is the crossroads for anyone who wants to visit the Cagsawa Ruins and the iconic Mount Mayon, also known as the volcano with the perfect cone. In this article you will find a list of possible activities to do in the surrounding area. 

Donsol

Donsol is considered the ideal destination for anyone who wants to see whale sharks ethically. Unlike Oslob and many other destinations, sharks are not fed here and can only be observed during the natural migration period from November to May. You can find more information about this on this page.

Caramoan Islands (Camarines Sur)

The Caramoan Islands are a group of islands and islets located off the southeastern tip of the main island of Luzon. The islands are known for their white sand beaches and limestone cliffs. The archipelago is considered a secret paradise still little visited by travelers. If you are looking for a destination away from the beaten path, the Caramoan Islands might be for you. You can find more information about them on this page.

Friendly kids on the streets of Manila.

PALAWAN

Palawan is known for its white sandy beaches, crystal clear waters and sheer limestone cliffs. The island is one of the most touristy and popular in the Philippines.

El Nido

As far as I am concerned, El Nido was a huge disappointment. The beauty of the islands, beaches and lagoons of Bacuit Bay where the popular boat tours take you is undeniable but mass tourism has in my opinion reached such a level that it completely ruined the atmosphere of these heavenly places. This is compounded by “insane prices” compared to the rest of the country.

Sunset over Bacuit Bay.

What to do and see in El Nido

Having said that, El Nido can still be a pleasant place to spend a few days. There is no shortage of activities but personally, on a trip to the Philippines, I think you would be better off spending your time elsewhere.

Boat tours

The island hopping tours are undoubtedly the favorite activity of travelers visiting El Nido. Four standard tours are offered: A, B, C and D. According to what locals say, the best are the A and C tours, which consequently are also the most popular. Tours cost between PHP 1200 and PHP 1400. I tried to get a last minute price on the morning of the tour itself but no agency offered me more than PHP 200 off. In the end I booked my tour with Brunch El Nido given the good breakfast included.

PHP 200 environmental tax should be added to the tour price (it should be valid for 10 days in case you want to do more tours) and at least in the case of tour A the entrance to the lagoon costs extra (PHP 200) plus another PHP 300 for Kayak rental, the latter can be shared with another person. All tours include lunch, which in my case was excellent.

I know for a fact that Outpost Hostel organizes private tours with non-standard itineraries for 1800 PHP if I am not mistaken. According to them they visit less busy spots, how much is true I don’t know. What is certain is that tour A, which I participated in, is something I would not recommend. Maybe it was the time of year (late February) but every single place we went to was packed with people. To get into the secret lagoon I literally had to wait in line for at least 15 minutes. Beautiful places but way, way too many people in my opinion.

Sunrise in El Nido.

Expedition from El Nido to Coron (or vice versa)

If budget allows, you could invest the money from the island hopping tour to join one of several expeditions that shuttle from El Nido to Coron and back. There are at least four companies that offer this type of experience: Tao Experience, Buhay Isla, Big Dream, and Keelooma. It is a one-way trip of three to five days during which sailing alternates with semi-deserted islands where you can spend time on the beach or do some great snorkeling. 

Tao Experience is considered the best in terms of boats, overnight accommodations and food, but it is also the most expensive. I did the four-day tour with Buhay Isla paying PHP 18500, discounted from the official price of PHP 21500. That’s a lot of money but if you can afford it I think it’s really worth it, as far as I’m concerned it was a great experience. The food was great, the crew nice and the accommodation for the night (changed every day) was not bad at all. At least in the case of Buhay Isla, even the rum and cola is included in the price, personally I don’t drink but I assure you the other guys were thrilled.

Our boat during the Expedition.

Beaches in and around El Nido 

There are at least three beaches that are often recommended around El Nido: Nacpan Beach, Lio Beach, and Las Cabanas Beach. Nacpan Beach is the farthest from town and can be reached by scooter (the last stretch of road is not in very good condition) but some hostels also arrange shuttles. It is a wide white sandy beach. Admission costs 50 PHP. Lio beach is a more convenient alternative to reach and not bad at all. Admission is free. Las Cabanas Beach is the closest to town and at least during my visit there were quite a few people but the beach is nice and admission is free.

Waterfalls at El Nido

If you decide to rent a scooter (they cost about PHP 500 per day) to go to Nacpan Beach or Lio Beach, you might visit a couple of waterfalls along the way that can be reached at the end of short treks. As you will hear me say several times throughout this guide, I have decided to boycott the visit because the locals force you to get a guide at “crazy” prices, which is totally unnecessary. Looking at the photos, the falls are not even that impressive, quite the contrary. For Bulalacao Waterfalls they charge 300 PHP while for Nagkalit-kalit Waterfalls they seem to charge as much as 350 PHP for a “guide”.

One of the islands visited on the Expedition.

Taraw peak and Canopy Walk

These two hikes are often confused with each other but they are two quite distinct things. Taraw Peak or Cliff is a viewpoint where you have to “climb” up the rock but the views really seem to be amazing.Find the short trail described on this page, it is not an easy route. I downloaded the gps coordinates with the idea of going up on my own and then went on a scouting trip but it really seems that you have to make your way through the inner courtyards of houses and it didn’t seem right, but at the same time I also didn’t feel like paying 500 PHP for a guide so I gave up. If you do decide to go up, I recommend doing it at dawn and making arrangements with the guide the day before. Just ask someone along this road to be directed to the right person. 

The Canopy Walk or via ferrata, on the other hand, is a system of footbridges, suspension bridges, and stairways. Essentially, it is an equipped trail that winds through the same limestone cliffs not far from Taraw peak. Admission costs 400 PHP. This did not appeal to me at all so I decided to move on but I am sure it might be an interesting experience.

Sunrise on the Expedition.

How to reach El Nido?

You can take an air-conditioned “tourist minivan” from Puerto Princesa directly to El Nido. The trip takes 6 hours and costs about 700 pesos. The price varies depending on whether you book directly at the station, including hotel/airport pickup or not. There are also daily minivans to and from Port Barton for 600 PHP. If you want to save some money, there are non-air-conditioned buses used by locals that leave at least once a day from both Puerto Princesa and Port Barton. Another local option are the Jeepneys heading to Roxas from both Puerto Princesa and Port Barton where you then have to change towards El Nido, inquire about the schedule. Here are the locations of the various stations: El Nido, Roxas, Port Barton, and Puerto Princesa.

By sea from Coron, there should be at least one ferry a day around 8:00 a.m. The trip takes about 8 hours and should cost about PHP 1800. El Nido also has a small airport with direct flights to Manila and Coron. Finally, as mentioned earlier, you could reach El Nido from Coron on a multi-day expedition.

Sunrise on the Expedition.

Where to sleep in El Nido?

I spent a few nights at Frendz Hostel El Nido. All in all the hostel is nice and the location is great if you want to stay in the heart of El Nido. Lots of activities are organized for guests to socialize and there is definitely a party hostel atmosphere on the terrace in the evenings but that was not a problem even for people like me who go to bed early. Another nice option in downtown El Nido with a more relaxed atmosphere is Spin Designer Hostel. I spent a few nights at Outpost Beach Hostel. It is located a few kilometers outside of town directly on the beach which is not very pretty but offers crazy sunsets over the bay. It is a very social and extremely popular hostel and should be booked well in advance. I did not find it that outstanding but it is without a doubt a great hostel. A cheaper alternative in the same area is Kame House Backpackers. Finally, if you want to spend a few days away from the chaos of El Nido but are still looking for a social atmosphere check out Mad Monkey Hostel Nacpan Beach.

“Private island” on the Expedition.

Port Barton

If El Nido was the destination that most disappointed me during my trip to the Philippines, Port Barton was one of my favorites. The small village is gaining a lot of popularity but is still far from the mass tourism that characterizes El Nido.

What to do and see in Port Barton

This small village on the west coast of Palawan can be considered a smaller and quieter version of El Nido.

Port Barton.

Island Hopping

For the classic boat tour, there is a kind of “standard” itinerary that is offered by everyone. It officially costs 1500 PHP but there is no shortage of discounts, I paid 1100 + 50 for the eco card. In case you are interested, CocoRico Hostel organizes a party boat with loud music and unlimited alcohol. The various stops may vary slightly but usually you visit Turtle Point, a sandbar full of starfish, a couple of beaches and some great snorkeling spots. Lunch is included in the price and at least in my case it was excellent. In my opinion a much better experience than the boat tour done in El Nido.

Port Barton Island Hopping Tour.

Beaches

Itaytay beach, Port Barton’s main beach is not that bad but I strongly recommend going down the coast in the direction of Coconut Beach and especially White Beach. You could walk there but most travelers prefer to rent a scooter. The road is not in good condition. Alternatively, there is a taxi boat that goes to White Beach every morning and returns at 5 pm. 

White Beach.

The owner of Coconut Beach asks 60 PHP, the beach is nice but White Beach is much nicer so I recommend going directly there, again the entrance fee is 60 PHP. Green Hill Restaurant & Cottages, not far from White Beach, is a really nice place to have lunch and potentially stay that came highly recommended but I didn’t get a chance to visit, the reviews are great, check it out.

Finally, north of Port Barton you could visit Pamuayan Beach. It was the last stop on my island hopping tour but if you wanted to, you could visit it in combination with the waterfalls I discuss below.

Pamuayan Beach.

Waterfalls

There are two waterfalls not bad at all and easily accessible from Port Barton, the closest being Pamuayan Waterfalls (Google Maps). There is no entrance fee but they do ask for a contribution. The waterfall is reached at the end of a short trail marked on Organic Maps. I walked there but if you wanted you could arrange a tricycle or rent a scooter. 

Still on foot, I continued on to Bigaho Waterfalls (Google Maps). This is a long walk that I do not recommend, much better to rent a scooter in this case. The waterfall is reached at the end of a short path in about 15 minutes. The entrance fee is 40 PHP. It seems to be less visited than Pamuayan; when I arrived there was literally no one there.

Pamuayan Waterfalls.

Where to sleep in Port Barton?

I slept at SHENAMAE Pension&Apartel, a small family-run guesthouse with cheap rooms and great location. The two hostels normally recommended are CocoRico Hostel and Russell Place, the former is a party hostel in the center of town while the latter is slightly out of town and offers a more relaxed atmosphere. Finally, if you want a little piece of paradise all to yourself and the budget allows, check out Faith Tourist Inn. I met the young couple who run the bungalows while I was at Bigaho Falls. They are extremely nice, we spent a few hours together, then since it was getting late they offered me a ride back to Port Barton and we stopped briefly at the facility they proudly showed me. There are two other facilities nearby that offer beach bungalows, all very nice.

Bigaho Waterfalls.

How to reach Port Barton?

Minivan tickets from Puerto Princesa if bought directly at the station, cost around PHP 400-500 while with hotel or airport pickup cost PHP 550-650. Minivans from El Nido cost around PHP 600. There should be at least one local bus without air conditioning that leaves daily from Puerto Princesa and should cost about PHP 250. Here are the locations of the various stations: El Nido, Port Barton and Puerto Princesa

Coconut Beach.

Puerto Princesa

For most travelers, myself included, Puerto Princesa is merely a stopover.

What to do and see in Puerto Princesa

The city has nothing to offer but if you want, there are at least a couple of destinations to visit nearby.

Underground River

The Underground River (Google Maps) is the excursion that is often recommended in Puerto Princesa. It is even part of the new Seven Natural Wonders of the World but according to my research and testimonies gathered from some travelers who had been there recently, absolutely nothing special, just another cave where you have to wait in line for a short 10-minute boat ride after almost two hours by minivan. I personally decided to skip it but in case you are interested, the tours from Puerto Princesa cost about PHP 2000, to save some money you could opt for DIY, you can find a detailed guide at this page. I would like to stress that it is important to get your permit in advance especially during high season because there is a daily limit and most permits go to travel agencies.

Nagtabon Beach

Nagtabon Beach (Google Maps) is just over half an hour from Puerto Princesa. You can visit in a day but if you want there are a couple of options for sleeping, such as B&R Hostel Nagtabon. I have not been there but the beach looks really nice. Apparently surfing is not bad.

Port Barton Island Hopping Tour.

Olangoan Waterfalls

If for whatever reason you decide to rent a scooter to visit the Underground River or explore the surroundings of Puerto Princesa on two wheels, north of town there is a waterfall not far from the main road, Olangoan Waterfalls. From what I read, they again charge astronomical amounts for the mandatory guide but it may be possible to haggle.

Balabac Archipelago

If you want an off-the-beaten-path experience, consider the Balabac Archipelago. This group of islands located in the far south of Palawan is still little known, perfect for anyone who wants a “remote” experience. Tours similar to the expedition between El Nido and Coron are offered from Puerto Princesa but don’t expect the same level of comfort. From what I’ve been told, camps are very basic. You can find more information on this page. 

How to reach Puerto Princesa?

There are direct minivans from El Nido and Port Barton. Puerto Princesa Airport has several direct daily connections to Manila, Cebu, and other cities in the country. Finally, by sea there are ferry connections to Manilla with a stop in Coron (operated by 2GO) and also connections to Negros (operated by Montenegro Lines).

Where to sleep in Puerto Princesa?

I spent one night at Casaoro Homestay, an extremely cheap option and all in all not so bad considering the price. But if you are looking for something more comfortable check out Green Turtle, Bamboo Nest and Balai Esperanza.

Expedition El Nido – Coron.

CORON

Given its proximity, Coron Island is often included in the itinerary of anyone visiting Palawan. Most travelers use Coron Town on Busuanga Island as their base where the airport is also located.

What to do and see in Coron

The classic boat tour to nearby Coron Island, where breathtaking cliffs plunging into the sea, famous lagoons and white sand beaches can be seen, is undoubtedly the most popular activity.

Coron Town.

Island hopping tour in Coron

In Coron the boat tours do not have real standard itineraries like A,B,C and D in El Nido, but they still tend to go to the same places: Kayangan Lake, Barracuda Lake, Twin Lagoon plus a few beaches like Banul Beach or Smith Point Beach where you normally have lunch. Prices range from PHP 900 to PHP 1,500 depending on the itinerary you choose and especially which lakes and lagoons you want to visit. For example, entry to Kayangan Lake and Barracuda Lake costs PHP 300. Joining one of these tours is by far the cheapest option to see the highlights of Coron Island but, since they all depart at about the same time and follow the same rough itinerary, crowds can be a problem, especially in high season.

Entrance to Kayangan Lake.

For the more adventurous, you can rent a kayak and basically create an ad hoc itinerary to avoid the crowds. At Kayangan Lake and Barracuda Lake I didn’t even go inside, I simply flew the drone. I rested at a small free beach (Google Maps) and then headed down the scenic shoreline to Twin Lagoon, where I arrived at lunchtime when there was hardly anyone there. If the tide is not too high, you can get your kayak through the small passage that connects the two lagoons. Finally, if you still have enough energy, finish the tour with Smith Point Beach. Theoretically you have to pay admission but no one asked me for anything and by late afternoon there were no more than ten people.

In the market/port area (Google Maps) from where island hopping tours also depart you can easily rent a kayak for the day. Unfortunately the various shops all try to charge 1000 PHP per day which is crazy to say the least, they quickly go down to 800 PHP which is still a lot, in the end after an all-out negotiation I found one that gave it to me for 550 PHP. This is definitely not something I would recommend to everyone, after a full day of paddling in the sun I returned to Coron Town exhausted and with blistered hands. I think many people would prefer the comfort of the boat.

Twin Lagoon.

If you’re traveling in a group or don’t have budget concerns, consider arranging a private boat and leaving early in the morning so that you have a couple of hours ahead of the schedule on tours and thus avoid crowds.

In conclusion, the destinations just described are part of the classic island hopping tour in Coron. But there are many other islands and beaches that can be reached in a day trip from Coron Town. We visited some of these destinations on the last day of the expedition from El Nido, in case you are interested, here are some examples: Malcapuya Island (Google Maps) , Banana Island (Google Maps) , Bulog Dos Island (Google Maps) and Black Island (Google Maps).

Siete Pecados

Siete Pecados (Google Maps) is a small archipelago of islands not far from Coron Town where you can do some great snorkeling. I have not been there but apparently snorkeling is really special. A tricycle from Coron Town should cost around PHP 600-700 including a couple of hours of waiting. Once on site you could rent a kayak or arrange a boat tour among the islets. Alternatively you could rent a kayak as described above and paddle up the coast to the islands.

Smith Point Beach.

Mount Tapyas

From the top of Mount Tapyas (Google Maps) there is an excellent panoramic view of Coron Town and the surrounding islands. The beginning of the staircase to the top is at this point, from here it is about 700 steps, 10-30 minutes depending on pace. Recommended especially at sunset.

Sunset from Mount Tapyas.

Maquinit Hot Spring

The hot springs (Google Maps) are located just outside of town and are really nice. I was there early in the morning, there were no more than five people but after a while it started to get really too hot. I think they are only worth visiting if it is bad weather or maybe in the evening after sunset, but that is what many people do so it can definitely get crowded. The entrance fee is PHP 250. I walked about an hour along the road with little traffic but most people arrive by tricycle, about PHP 400 including a couple of hours of waiting.

Maquinit Hot Spring.

Diving in Coron

I personally haven’t done any diving in Coron, but the island is known for its dive sites where you can explore the wrecks of some Japanese warships from World War II. Basically, if Shipwreck Diving is something you are interested in, you might consider doing some diving in Coron.

Where to sleep in Coron?

I slept at Avisala Hostel, great value for money and all in all recommended. Other interesting options are Dayon Hostel, Happy Camper Hostel and Outpost Coron.

How to reach Coron?

Transfers to and from the airport cost PHP 250 with pick up/drop off directly to your accommodation. If you arrive by ferry, the port (Google Maps) is not far from town. I walked to the hostel but if you want there is no shortage of tricycles waiting at the exit. Finally, as discussed earlier, you could reach Coron on a multi-day expedition from El Nido.

Barracuda Lake.

CEBU

The island of Cebu is among the Philippines’ most populous. Its central location gives easy access to many other surrounding islands and is therefore often included during a trip to the country.

Cebu City

Cebu City is the island’s main city and serves as a transportation hub. Honestly, it does not have much to offer travelers so much so that many do not even spend the night in the city, but in case you have a day to spare you should still be able to keep busy.

What to do and see in Cebu City

Magellan’s Cross (Google Maps), which was planted by Ferdinand Magellan when he arrived in the Philippines in 1521, and the nearby San pedro Fort (Google Maps) at the side of Plaza Independencia (Google Maps), are some noteworthy historical sites that can keep you busy for a few hours. Just outside of the city you can also visit the Sirao Garden (Google Maps) and the Temple of Leah (Google Maps), on this page you will find a guide on how to get there by public transportation. Also in this area is a viewpoint (Google Maps) where you can admire the city from above.

Where to sleep in Cebu City?

For almost all travelers, Cebu is just a gateway city, so I strongly recommend choosing a convenient location. I have slept at HappyNest Hostel both times I have been to Cebu. It is nothing exceptional and the neighborhood is not nice, but it is in a strategic location halfway between the south terminal and the north bus terminal (the direct bus to the airport leaves from here) and close to the port with all the ferry connections. Other interesting options are Murals Hostel and Cafe and Shejoje Poshtel Hostel.

How to reach Cebu City?

As anticipated, Cebu City is a major transportation hub, offering connections to virtually any other destination on the island. There are two bus stations-South Bus Terminal (Google Maps) and North Bus Terminal (Google Maps)-which unsurprisingly serve destinations to the south and north of the city, respectively. For connections to and from the airport, there is a bus that leaves frequently during the day and has the North Bus Terminal as its last stop. It costs only 50 PHP (official website). Besides direct connections to much of the country, the airport also boasts more than a few international destinations. To conclude, the port of Cebu (Google Maps) has direct ferry connections to numerous destinations including: Bohol, Dumaguete, Surigao City, and many more.

White Beach, Moalboal.

Moalboal

Moalboal is Cebu’s most popular destination. This small seaside town is famous for the giant sardine school that lives just steps from the beach but is also a great base for exploring some of the island’s iconic waterfalls.

What to do and see in Moalboal

Between snorkeling, scuba diving, canyoneering, beaches, waterfalls and a bit of nightlife, Moalboal offers activities a bit for everyone.

Sardines Run

The huge sardine school is truly unique. It can be observed any day at any time, but I recommend going early in the morning to avoid the crowds. The area is the one in front of the Chili Bar (Google Maps). There are plenty of stores on the waterfront where you can leave your things in storage and rent snorkeling equipment. Swim to the point where the seabed drops steeply and enjoy the show. It is not uncommon to see a few turtles near the shore as well. Some people will try to offer you a tour for 300 PHP or so; it is not necessary. If you do dive, I met a German couple who paid only PHP 1,000 each for a sardine dive. Staying on the diving theme, Pescador Island, about 3 kilometers off the coast, is a popular dive spot with an underwater cave called Cathedral.

As for snorkeling directly from the beach, two other nice spots are Kasai Point (Google Maps) and Talisay Point (Google Maps).

Sardines Run.

Kawasan Waterfalls

After the sardine run, Kawasan Falls seems to be another must do in Moalboal. If you wanted to, you could visit just the main falls by parking at this spot and then walking back up along the trail marked on Organic Maps. In this case the best option I think is to rent a scooter (about 400 PHP per day) but you could also use the bus since the falls are along the main road. The entrance fee is PHP 45. 

Most travelers, including yours truly, however, decide to visit the falls on a Canyoning tour. The tour ranges from 1200 to 1500 PHP, depending on where you book and how much you negotiate. Helmets and life jackets are provided. In the morning you are taken upstream to the falls where, for an extra PHP 600, you can take a zip line; they say the alternative is to walk for 45 minutes but I’m pretty sure I didn’t walk for more than 15 minutes. You then descend down the canyon for about three hours.The tour ends at Kawasan Falls from where you then walk to the main road and at least in our case, you have a buffet lunch before returning to Moalboal.

Overall, it was a pleasant and enjoyable experience, although there were occasional queues along the route. Nevertheless, the cost is reasonable, so unless on an extremely tight budget, I still recommend it.

Other waterfalls

South of Moalboal are numerous other waterfalls that can be visited over the course of one or more days. Unfortunately, according to my research, they do seem to require mandatory guiding just about everywhere, not to mention that for the most beautiful ones you have to drive over an hour. I can understand mandatory guiding when it comes to canyoning but according to what I read they are often short trails that present no difficulty. In my opinion an unfair way of cashing in so i skipped them. The three that are often recommended and can be visited within the same day are: Aguinid Falls (Google Maps), Binalayan Hidden Waterfalls (Google Maps) and Dau Falls (Google Maps). However, there are numerous other waterfalls such as: Inambakan Falls (Google Maps), Kabutongan Falls (Google Maps) and Dao Waterfalls (Google Maps).

White Beach

White Beach (Google Maps) is the prettiest beach around Moalboal, entry costs PHP 25. To get there a tricycle costs about 100/150 PHP per person, three of us paid 200 PHP. I recommend going there in the afternoon and staying until sunset. It is a popular spot so don’t expect a deserted beach, if possible avoid weekends.

White Beach, Moalboal.

Osmeña Peak and Casino Peak

Finally, Osmeña Peak (Google Maps) is a scenic viewpoint located about an hour from Moalboal. It is especially recommended at sunrise and sunset but at least during my visit the roads were not in very good condition, the idea of driving in the dark did not appeal to me at all, and the organized tours were quite expensive. Either way, it looks really nice. Not far away is another viewpoint called Casino Peak (Google Maps). 

How to reach Moalboal?

Getting to Moalboal from Cebu City is really easy. From the south terminal (Google Maps) there are very frequent connections, I paid 209 PHP with Ceres Liner. You are dropped off at this point (Google Maps) along the main road. From here tricycles charge 150 to get to downtown Moalboal. however if you start walking they stop the shared ones and you can pay 50 PHP or less. On the way out I ended up walking but on the way back I started walking and after two minutes I got a ride from one on a motorcycle for 50 PHP.

Where to sleep in Moalboal?

I slept at Maayong Hostel and recommend it, perfect location within walking distance of the center but far enough away to be quiet. That said, there are a lot of great hostels in Moalboal, a close friend had strongly recommended Chief Mau to me but it needs to be booked in advance. Pig Dive Hostel and Momo Hostel are two other options to consider, although slightly out of the center. If you decide to visit Moalboal during the weekend, I recommend booking in advance because there are a lot of local tourists coming in from Cebu City.

Oslob

I haven’t visited Oslob. The idea of swimming with semi-captive whale sharks didn’t appeal to me, especially with the overcrowding and timed interactions to accommodate the constant influx of tourists.

In case you are interested, without necessarily spending the night in Oslob, they organize day trips to swim with whale sharks from Moalboal. Departure is at 4:00 a.m. and tours cost about PHP 2500. If you decide to sleep in Oslob instead, you could take the opportunity to visit the nearby Tumalog Waterfalls (Google Maps).

How to reach Oslob?

From the bus stop along Moalboal road (Google Maps) you can take a direct bus to Bato for 130 PHP, the last stop is the bus station where you can board a direct bus to Oslob for 50 PHP, about two hours total.

Where to sleep in Oslob?

Sharky Hostel Oslob is often recommended as the owner makes sure to get you on the first boat of the day to see the whale sharks while avoiding the crowds.

Malapascua Island.

MALAPASCUA

This small island north of Cebu is literally the only place in the world where thresher sharks can be seen almost daily and is therefore a “must go” destination for all diving enthusiasts visiting the Philippines. 

What to do and see in Malapascua

If you don’t dive, I personally don’t think there is much point in visiting the island, there is no shortage of nice beaches but if you are in the Philippines, you don’t need to end up in Malapascua to find them. 

Diving with thresher sharks

Diving with thresher sharks was a great experience that I recommend to anyone with a license. I paid PHP 3400 for two dives with Sharks Tail Dive Resort (Google Maps), one of the cheapest options on the island. The equipment is not brand new but the boat was really spacious, the instructors professional and we were literally the first ones out there so during the first dive we were the only ones in the water.

I only did the two thresher shark dives but another site often recommended is Gato Island where there is a 30-meter underwater tunnel that allows you to cross the islet.

Yours truly and a thresher shark.

Shark Point

Shark Point or Sunset Beach (Google Maps) is a nice place to snorkel and watch the sunset. The small beach is managed by the Tepanee Beach Resort, which compared to many other resorts complies with the law and still grants access for free if you arrive by going through the cemetery (the route is clear on Organic Maps), but if you try to access it from Logon Beach thus going through the resort, they charge admission.

That said, the snorkeling is nice because there are a lot of small blacktip reef sharks in the bay. Recommended especially in the afternoon so you can stop and watch the sunset.

Sunset at Shark Point.

Langob Beach

Langob Beach (Google Maps) is perhaps the nicest beach on the island. It is located far from the harbor area where the main accommodations are located but can be easily reached on foot or alternatively by mototaxi. Not far away another nice, semi-deserted beach is Bantigue Beach (Google Maps).

Langob Beach and Bantigue Beach.

Kalanggaman Island

The Kalanggaman Island excursion seems to be quite popular. It takes two hours by boat to reach the island and its iconic sandbar. The tour costs about PHP 800 plus PHP 500 for island admission. Personally, I thought it was a lot of money to see yet another island but I am sure it could be an interesting excursion for someone.

How to reach Malapascua?

Getting to Malapascua from Cebu is really easy, from Cebu North Terminal (Google Maps) there are frequent connections to Maya, air-conditioned buses cost 260 PHP, without air-conditioning they should cost a little less, minivans are slightly faster and cost 350 PHP. I was dropped off directly at the pier but in any case the terminal is not far away (Google Maps). Boats to Malapascua depart frequently during the day and cost PHP 200. One must also pay a fee of PHP 120 to access the island.

Where to sleep in Malapascua?

I slept at Malapascua Budget Inn and all in all I recommend it. The facility has seen better times but the dorm is comfortable and the location within walking distance of the night market is great. Threshershack Inn is another interesting budget option.

Langob Beach.

BANTAYAN

The island of Bantayan is located not far from Malapascua and being slightly off the classic itineraries I think it can be an interesting destination for anyone who wants an alternative to the more popular islands. 

What to do and see in Bantayan

Bantayan was supposed to be the last stop on my trip to the Philippines but unfortunately I did not have enough time. From Malapascua I returned to Cebu and boarded a direct flight to Malaysia the same day. So I cannot speak from direct experience but in case you are interested, you can find more than a few insights in this article.

How to reach Bantayan?

From Cebu’s North Terminal (Google Maps) there are frequent connections to Hagnaya, buses cost PHP 170, boats to Bantayan cost PHP 205. 

Where to sleep in Bantayan?

Casa Isabel Hostel seems to be a good economical option.

Fumaroles near Red Rock Waterfall.

NEGROS

Negros is the fourth largest and third most populous island in the Philippines. Except for a few destinations along the south coast of Negros Oriental, the island is not particularly popular with travelers.

Dumaguete

Dumaguete is the main city of Negro Oriental i.e., the region southeast of Negros Island.

What to do and see in Dumaguete

While the town itself has limited attractions, it serves as a convenient base for exploring the surrounding area. It is also a nearly essential stop when traveling to or from the island. In case you want to spend a few hours walking around the town, Casa Arrieta provides a self-guided walking itinerary. Some notable historical sites are the Campanario de Dumaguete (Google Maps), the nearby cathedral (Google Maps), and Silliman University Hall (Google Maps), built in 1902-1903, is the oldest U.S. structure still standing in the Philippines.

Balinsasayao Twin Lakes

These twin lakes are about an hour from Dumaguete (Google Maps). I recommend renting a scooter for the day and combining the visit with other destinations I discuss below. I rented it at Hey Dudz bike’s rental (Google Maps) for 400 PHP per day. In any case, the lakes, as pretty as they are, are certainly not must-sees; if you’re on a tight schedule I’d probably recommend skipping them. Entry costs 100 PHP, 15 PHP for the scooter and 5 PHP for parking, 120 PHP in total. There is a short path about 1 km long that leads to an observation tower from where you can see both lakes. Alternatively, you can take a boat for 250 PHP that takes you directly to the base of the tower. As anticipated, nothing exceptional but definitely a nice way to spend a couple of hours.

Balinsasayao Twin Lakes.

Casaroro Falls

Casaroro Waterfall (Google Maps) is undoubtedly the most popular in and around Dumaguete. The entrance costs only PHP 20 but unfortunately when I arrived at the place I found out that even here you have to have a guide to complete the short trail, they ask for PHP 250, maximum three people per guide. I left more out of principle than money but you do you. If you arrive early in the morning and are up for a long hike, it is also possible to continue on to Twin Falls (Google Maps). I imagine the guide would cost more in this case but I don’t know how much.

Pulangbato Falls and Red Rocks waterfall 

Instead of visiting the Casaroro waterfall I therefore decided to go to Pulangbato Falls (Google Maps) and Red Rocks waterfall (Google Maps), along the road to the falls there are also fumaroles where you can make a shortstop (Google Maps). The falls are located inside a small “resort” where they charge PHP 100 for entry. I recommend ending the day at the nearby Red Rock Hot Springs (Google Maps). Entrance costs PHP 100 and at least during my visit, they were not crowded at all.

Red Rocks waterfall.

Apo Island

Apo Island (Google Maps) is a true paradise for diving enthusiasts. It is a marine sanctuary, the reef is in excellent health and home to a wide variety of sea creatures. I did three dives on a day trip from Dauin and was thrilled, but clearly you can also do some excellent snorkeling. If you are not planning to continue to Dauin,which I discuss below, you can visit the island on a day trip starting from Dumaguete. These are the instructions provided by Casa Arrieta for a do-it-yourself tour: “take a tricycle to the bus station (Google Maps), get on any southbound bus that goes through the Malatapay market (let the conductor know you want to go to Apo Island), walk from the road to the pier through the empty market (it’s only packed on Wednesdays), then look for Mila and tell her you are from Casa Arrieta.” The cost depends on the number of people you share the boat with, but it should be cheaper than the tour. Expect to pay PHP 300.

In case you want to spend a few days on the island, there are a couple of guesthouses. A friend spent two nights at Mario’s Homestay (Google Maps) paying PHP 300 per night. An alternative is Liberty Lodge (Google Maps). At least at the time of writing this guide, the two facilities do not have an online presence but you can call to make reservations. 

Manjuyod White Sandbar

I don’t understand this obsession with sandbars but the excursion to Manjuyod White Sandbar (Google Maps) seems to be really popular among local tourists. Besides visiting the sandbar, “dolphin-watching” is normally included. I have not participated in the tour so I will not comment.

Mount Talinis

Mount Talinis is a volcano whose last eruption was in 1641. It is surrounded by a series of crater lakes, including Lake Yagumyum, Lake Nailig and Lake Mabilog. I have not personally done the hike but it looks very interesting. Find all the relevant information in this article.

Red Rock Hot Spring.

How to reach Dumaguete?

From Moalboal you have two options: I took the Bus to Bato for 140 PHP and then the ferry from the Port of Bato (Google Maps) to Tempi (Google Maps) for 120 PHP, out of the port I crossed the road and took the first Jeepney heading to Dumaguete for 30 PHP, alternatively, once you get to the terminal in Bato (Google Maps) you can take any southbound bus and get off at the Port of Liloan (Google Maps) from where you then take the ferry to Dumaguete, again once you get out of the port you should have no difficulty catching a jeepney bound for Dumaguete. By sea from the city’s main port (Google Maps) there are direct daily connections to and from more than a few islands, including Bohol and Siquijor. Lastly, Dumaguete airport has more than a few daily flights to Manila and Cebu.

Where to sleep in Dumaguete?

I spent more than a few nights at Casa Arrieta Hostel and highly recommend it. Quiet and clean environment, very friendly staff. The Flying Fish Hostel is another interesting option not far away.

Road leading to Balinsasayao Twin Lakes.

Dauin

This small town south of Dumaguete is a destination I recommend to all scuba divers but also to anyone who wants to do some great snorkeling.

What to do and see in Dauin

In Dauin you can find a marine sanctuary with a very healthy coral reef. Diving and snorkeling can be done right from the beach. If you are not certified, both because of cost and the excellent state of the reef, I think it is a great place to get your Open Water or Advanced. The prices are not much higher than Koh Tao in Thailand, which is considered by many to be the absolute cheapest destination to get your certification. I stayed and did my dives, including the excursion to Apo Island, with Bongo Bongo Divers and I recommend them, there was also a couple on the boat who did only snorkeling. You can find the official website with updated prices and all the relevant information here. Another cheap dive resort often recommended by travelers is La Tortue, it is located slightly out of town, prices are similar and reviews are great. 

Both facilities accept Wise payments, which is very convenient. If you’re not registered yet, use this link for a free first transfer up to 500€.

How to reach Dauin?

From the Dumaguete terminal (Google Maps) you can take any bus heading south. They usually have Bayawan as their final destination. I took a jeepney paying PHP 25, besides being slightly cheaper, it has the closest stop to the center at this point. A tricycle from Dumaguete should cost about 300 PHP.

Where to sleep in Dauin?

As anticipated, I slept at Bongo Bongo Divers, a very nice environment a short walk from the beach, friendly staff and great prices. Another recommended option is La Tortue Diving Resort Dauin. 

Sipalay

To conclude this section on Negros Island, if you are looking for an as yet little-known destination, check out Sipalay. I have not been there, but according to what I have been told, its beaches and surroundings are not bad at all. To get there, there are direct buses from Dumaguete station, alternatively you could take a jeepney to Zamboanguita and then change to Sipalay.

Cambugahay Falls.

SIQUIJOR

The small island is known as “Magic Island” or “Witchcraft Island” for its long history of traditional healing practices and witchcraft. That said, there is no shortage of white beaches, waterfalls, and lush forests, all topped off with a quieter, more relaxed atmosphere than on other more popular islands.  

What to do and see in Siquijor

Considering that, at least at the moment, the island is reached exclusively by sea, there is only one port, and public transportation is not an option for exploring Siquijor, I recommend upon arrival to rent a scooter right away. Many travelers do this and in fact there is no shortage of options around the harbor. I rented it for four days with PLS MOTORBIKE RENTAL (Google Maps) paying PHP 300 per day after tough haggling. Officially they all charge PHP 400 per day.

Tubod Marine Sanctuary.

Siquijor Beaches and Marine Sanctuaries

Paliton Beach (Google Maps) is by far the most popular beach. The most touristy part of the island with lots of restaurants and hostels also develops in its surroundings. The beach is divided into two: the southern part is smaller, the situation can get crowded especially in the late afternoon while the northern part is wider. FYI, Wonderland Restaurant (Google Maps) is a popular option for eating within walking distance of the beach.

Maite Marine Sanctuary (Google Maps) offers some great snorkeling and the beach is not that bad, at low tide however you have to walk a lot to get to the deep water and there are some sea urchins so be careful. The entrance fee is 100 PHP. An alternative not far away, and in my opinion better, is Tubod Marine Sanctuary (Google Maps). Good snorkeling and well-maintained beach from the resort. Admission costs 100 PHP.

Paliton Beach.

Tulapos Marine Sanctuary (Google Maps), on the other hand, is located on the west side of the island, where you can see reef sharks, barracuda and generally larger fish. I have not been there but hiring a guide is mandatory. PHP 250 for the guide plus PHP 100 for admission. 

Finally, Salagdoong Beach (Google Maps) is a nice beach in the east of the island, during my visit they were doing some work in the resort so for safety reasons (??) it was impossible to swim but the work will have to finish sooner or later.

Maite Marine Sanctuary.

Siquijor Waterfalls

The island has more than a few beautiful waterfalls. Cambugahay Falls (Google Maps) is by far the most popular and spectacular. The waterfall is on several levels with large natural pools to swim in. I was there early in the morning so there were not many people but it can get crowded during the day. Admission costs PHP 20 plus another PHP 10 for scooter parking.

There are at least three other waterfalls nearby. At the entrance to Lagaan Falls (Google Maps) there is a sign saying that a guide is required but when I told them I didn’t want one they let me through without making any fuss. The trail is short and easy to follow. The entrance fee is 50 PHP. There was hardly anyone there, there was a kind of natural slide and the classic swing for diving.

Cambugahay Falls.

Locong Falls (Google Maps) and Kawasan Falls (Google Maps) are two other waterfalls in the area. As the crow flies, they are no more than a few hundred meters apart along the same waterway but have different entrances. I have not been to either of them because it was starting to get repetitive. But if you want to spend all day going from one waterfall to another, consider them.

Also in the same area you could visit the Sambulawan Underground River (Google Maps). I have not been here either, but basically you swim through a cave for about 20 minutes. Admission costs 350 PHP including the mandatory guide.

Lagaan Falls.

Another easily accessible waterfall, though not in the same area, is Lugnason Falls (Google Maps). I was there early in the morning shortly after sunrise so there was literally no one there. Technically, admission costs 20 PHP.

Lugnason Falls.

Finally, if you reach the falls from the east coast of the island where most travelers are based, along the main road you might make a brief stop at the old enchanted Balete tree (Google Maps). The tree is 400 years old and there is a natural spring at its base where visitors get their feet nibbled by fish. Admission costs 20 PHP. On the way back you could instead take the coastal road. At this point, you pass through a lot of villages that offer a window into the rural life of the locals and more than a few nice viewpoints. Alternatively, stop at Hidden Valley (Google Maps) for a meal with a great view.

Along the costal road.

Lazi Convent

Lazi Convent (Google Maps) is considered Asia’s largest and oldest. It was built in 1887 with coral stone and wood. Inside is the small Siquijor Heritage Museum where there are religious artifacts and historical exhibits. Not particularly interesting in my opinion but admission costs only PHP 20. I recommend visiting it after you have been to Cangbangag Falls and then go for lunch at Twenty4 Restaurant (Google Maps).

Staying on the restaurant theme, Roch Cuisine (Google Maps) offers good food with a great view at honest prices. The “restaurant” opens only in the late afternoon, just in time to dine while watching the sunset.

Lazi Convent.

Mt. Bandilaan National Park

The park covers the mountainous area in the central part of the island where at an elevation of 1,009 meters you can find Siquijor highest point. To my knowledge there are no real trails to do other than the short hike to the observation tower (Google Maps) from where you have excellent 360-degree views of the island. That said, even just riding the scooter on the roads that make their way through the lush forest is an enjoyable experience. 

View from the observation tower.

Other destinations within the park are Cantabon Cave (Google Maps) where one must have not one but two guides to enter at a cost of PHP 500. An entrance fee of PHP 20 must also be paid. I personally thought it was too much to visit what in the end is just another cave so I skipped it.  

Instead, I entered the Butterfly Sanctuary (Google Maps) where they ask for PHP 100. Honestly, I think the cost is exaggerated but it seems to be a nice conservation project. The owner is really nice and ready to answer any questions. Finally, you could visit the Cangbangag Falls (Google Maps). The road is in bad condition in places and the trail is not always clear but with some luck and help from locals I made it to my destination. I was there in March, there was little water but the height of the waterfall is very impressive. The entrance is free.

Butterfly Sanctuary.

How to reach Siquijor?

From the port of Dumaguete (Google Maps) there are several daily departures. On this page you will find an article that seems to be updated frequently. I paid PHP 200 + PHP 15 port fee. From the island of Cebu, you could reach Dumaguete as described above and then take a ferry from there. But a quicker alternative is to reach the port of Santader (Google Maps). At least during my visit, there was only one ferry to and from Bohol per day, so you should book in advance especially during peak season. To conclude, they are expanding the island’s small airport but currently it does not offer commercial flights.

Cangbangag Falls.

Where to sleep in Siquijor?

I slept at Little Nomads eco-guesthouse, it is a basic but nice accommodation. It is slightly away from the main beaches so I recommend staying here only if you plan to rent a scooter for your stay. The owners, Olivier and Sophie are two lovely people. If you prefer to be closer to the beach and nightlife of San Juan, I was strongly recommended Love Shack Hostel & Cafe.

Lazi Convent.

BOHOL

The island of Bohol with its iconic Chocolate Hills that are also depicted on the 200 PHP bill is undoubtedly one of the most popular islands among travelers. Given its proximity to Cebu and Siquijor, it is often visited in a sort of “triangle” itinerary.  

What to do and see in Bohol

Bohol is much larger than it looks. Although the main roads are in excellent condition, travel from one side of the island to the other can take hours. As discussed in the “Where to Stay” section, if you have enough time on your hands, I recommend splitting your stay in two, spending a few days in Panglao and then moving east to visit the rest of the island.

Sunrise at Chocolate Hills.

Panglao

Panglao is the small island where the airport is located that is connected to the main island by two bridges. Ironically this is the most touristy area of “Bohol” or at least where most of the accommodations are located. 

Alona Beach (Google Maps) is the “main” beach in Panglao. The beachfront is extremely developed with lots of restaurants and stores but all in all it is not that bad. Of the beaches I saw in Panglao, in my opinion the most beautiful is the one at the South Palms Resort (Google Maps) aka Dumaluan Beach (Google Maps). One of the hostels I stayed at was nearby, so I visited the beach frequently. You need to go through the resort to reach it, but they don’t cause any problems. While many establishments might ignore it, the law actually requires them to allow access.

Dumaluan Beach.

Hinagdanan Cave (Google Maps) is a cave with a small natural pool along the north coast of Panglao. Admission costs PHP 50 but if you want to swim you have to pay another PHP 75. I was there early in the morning so there was hardly anyone but it seems to get crowded during the day and given the confined spaces I think the experience would suffer quite a bit.

Hinagdanan Cave.

Island Hopping

A “standard” boat tour is offered in Panglao that starts early in the morning with some Dolphin Watching before continuing to Balicasag Island (Google Maps) where you go snorkeling and finally Virgin Island (Google Maps). Honestly it is not something I would recommend, seeing dolphins early in the morning was nice but the snorkeling in Balicasag Island was probably the worst of my entire trip to the Philippines, so many dead corals and an incredible amount of people in the water.

Balicasag Island.

Finally, Virgin Island is yet another sandbar that locals seem to love. They even wanted 100 PHP for entry to the island, which at the time of our visit was literally submerged by the high tide. I stayed on the boat. I booked the tour through the hostel because it was the cheapest option, 750 PHP including mask and snorkel rental or 700 PHP without.

Virgin Island.

Tarsier Sanctuary

The Tarsier Sanctuary (Google Maps) is the place to see the world’s smallest primate! A nonprofit organization with the primary goal of protecting Philippine tarsiers and their habitat from extinction runs the center. They are very shy and purely nocturnal animals, being surrounded by people taking pictures I doubt is ideal. More like a zoo than a sanctuary. That said, without the revenue from tourism the conservation project probably wouldn’t even exist so perhaps it is the lesser of two evils. Admission costs 120 PHP.

Tarsier Sanctuary.

On the way to the Sanctuary you can pass through the Bilar man-made forest (Google Maps), a stretch of road about 2 km long where a reforestation project has created a particularly photogenic forest given the even height of the various trees. Nothing special but you can stop and take some nice pictures.  

Bilar man-made forest.

Loboc River

At this spot (Google Maps) they offer cruises on the Loboc River. It looked like a classic tourist trap to me so I passed on. A girl in the hostel took the tour and reported to me that the lunch and buffet was not bad but the cruise was nothing special. That said, you can take the road along the river to the Tarsier sanctuary and enjoy some interesting sights. In case you are interested in the tour, the cost is about PHP 850 including lunch.

Loboc River.

Chocolate Hills

On the island there are more than a thousand of these curious geological formations spread over an area of over 50 square kilometers. The hills can also be admired from the road, but from higher up you get to appreciate the extent and the beauty of this interesting geological phenomenon.  

The most popular viewpoint by far is at the Chocolate Hills Complex (Google Maps). I was there at dawn, no one asked me anything but the entrance should cost 100 PHP. Also, from what I understand during the day you cannot reach the top of the hill where there is the short flight of steps leading to the viewing platform driving your own vehicle, you have to park here and then reach the top by minivan.

Sunrise at Chocolate Hills Complex.

Another very nice viewpoint is located here. It is known only to locals and the trail is not marked on any map. I found out about it because every morning Bohol Hammock Hostel organizes a short hike to go see the sunrise so you could ask the hostel for directions or just stay there.

Sunrise at Bohol Hammock Hostel viewpoint.

Waterfalls in Bohol

Bohol also has its fair share of waterfalls, the most accessible from Panglao being those north of Tagbilaran. They are not too far from each other so you can easily combine them. During my stay they were all officially closed to the public, according to what I was told by some locals I met. The local government was discussing their management and possible works to maintain the structures there. Long story short, I did not pay a single euro to enter but I doubt this will be the case in the future.

Kawasan Falls (Google Maps) is very pretty. I visited on Sunday and there were a lot of locals but during the week I think it is much quieter. The road to the parking lot is not perfect but not terrible either, once you get there there is a short flight of steps to the waterfall.

Kawasan Falls.

Mag-Aso Falls (Google Maps) was technically closed to the public but the locals gave me the all clear. Along the trail there were actually more than a few fallen trees but I easily made my way to the waterfall.

Mag-Aso Falls.

Camugao Falls (Google Maps) here unlike the other two waterfalls the locals told me that the waterfall was actually closed to the public so I left.

In the Dimiao area I visited:

Pahangog Falls (Google Maps) is my favorite waterfall of the ones I have visited. The last stretch of road is terrible so if you are not comfortable on two wheels I do not recommend it. In any case, admission is free and you will likely have to share it with a few others.

Ingkumhan Falls (Google Maps) is located not far away, nothing special.They ask 30 PHP for admission.

Pahangog Falls.

Anda

Anda is a town that is located in the southeast of the island, if you stay in Panglao, it’s almost a three-hour drive, honestly I don’t think it’s worth spending the whole day on the scooter but if you decide to sleep somewhere else on the island or maybe split your stay between multiple locations as I did, Anda and its surroundings offer more than a few attractions.

Cabagnow Cave Pool (Google Maps) is a natural pool reminiscent of cenotes in Mexico, very pretty and at least during my visit, not at all crowded. PHP 50 for admission plus another PHP 10 for scooter parking.

Cabagnow Cave Pool.

Quinale Beach (Google Maps) is the beach located in the center of Anda, very nice and uncrowded. Theoretically, admission costs 30 PHP but no one asked me for anything. 

About thirty kilometers from Anda are some beautiful terraced rice fields, the Cadapdapan rice terraces (Google Maps). I recommend having something to eat at Eleuterio’s Restaurant and Rice Terraces where you can enjoy the surrounding views, and if you feel like going for a short hike you can go down to the Can-umantad waterfall (Google Maps). The steep staircase starts directly from the restaurant, entrance is free as long as you consume something.

In conclusion, I did not do any diving in Bohol. But according to a friend’s report, Anda offers some excellent diving.

Cadapdapan rice terraces and Can-umantad waterfall.

How to reach Bohol?

By sea there are direct connections to Dumaguete (OceanJet Ferry), Siquijor (OceanJet Ferry), Cebu City (OceanJet Ferry and Lite Ferry) and Camiguin (Super Shuttle Ferry) . Apparently there is also a speed boat that leaves from Oslob. I would like to point out that ferries from Dumaguete and Siquijor arrive at Tagbilaran port (Google Maps) but some ferries from Cebu City arrive at Tubigon port (Google Maps) and Getafe port (Google Maps), which I do not recommend. Ferries from Camiguin leave from Balbagon Port (Google Maps) and arrive at Jagna Port (Google Maps) three times a week (Super Shuttle Ferry).

If you are arriving by sea and plan to depart from the same port at the end of your stay in Bohol, it is definitely worth considering renting a scooter right away to reach your accommodation and explore the island in the following days. That said, public transportation on the island is not bad, from the Dao Bus Terminal (Google Maps) in Tagbilaran there are frequent connections to the rest of the island while from the Jeepneys Station (Google Maps) there are frequent connections to Panglao, I paid PHP 50 from Alona Beach and PHP 20 to get to Panglao Beach upon my arrival.

Finally, Bohol Airport (Google Maps) has direct daily connections to Manila, El Nido, and a few international destinations as well.

Kawasan Falls.

Where to sleep in Bohol?

Most travelers do not even sleep in Bohol but in Panglao, which is the small island where the airport is located. Here I spent a few nights in Natura Vista, the hostel is nice but the nearby beach is not the best, also in Panglao I then spent a few days in Izla Soanna and I strongly recommend it, the hostel is really cheap and comfortable, the owner is an incredibly kind and hospitable person. Recommended!

I finally spent a few days at Bohol Hammock Hostel, which is very close to the Chocolate Hills and can be used as a base for exploring the rest of the island more easily. The hostel is surrounded by greenery and it is possible to have dinner with other guests every evening. The staff is lovely. Recommended!

Mag-Aso Falls.

CAMIGUIN

Camiguin also known as “the island born of fire” is home to Mount Hibok-Hibok, one of the most active volcanoes in the Philippines. The island is definitely not part of the classic itineraries so much so that at least during my visit there were no actual hostels.

What to do and see in Camiguin

The island is really compact, following the road along the coast you can literally go around the whole island in less than two hours. Despite its small size it offers a really varied landscape ranging from white beaches to lush forest in the central part of the island where there are peaks that exceed 1,600 meters in altitude.

White Island.

Mantigue Island

The island (Google Maps) is really very beautiful: white beach, crystal clear water and some excellent views with Camiguin in the background. The coral reef surrounding it is well preserved and the snorkeling is great. Boats to reach the island leave from this point, cost PHP 750 and carry a maximum of four people. They also rent snorkeling equipment here for PHP 150. Island entry costs PHP 75 plus another PHP 75 to access the marine sanctuary (no one seems to check). The boat can be shared with strangers but you have to come back together and decide the time at departure.

Mantigue Island.

White island

Clearly, Camiguin also has the classic sandbar named White island (Google Maps). I just flew the drone from the beach but, in case you want to visit the island, boats leave from this point and cost PHP 650, maximum four people.

White island.

Spanish church ruins and sunken cemetery

Sunken Cemetery (Google Maps) is one of the remnants of the disastrous Mount Vulcan eruption of 1871. The cemetery cross is still standing a few meters from the shore. To see the cross from the shore you do not have to pay any entrance fee but if you want to reach it by boat you have to pay 100 PHP. 

Sunken Cemetery

Old Spanish Church Ruins (Google Maps) are instead what remains of a church built in the 16th century and partly destroyed by the volcanic eruption itself. Admission costs 50 PHP, nothing exceptional.

Old Spanish Church Ruins.

Waterfalls in Camiguin

Katibawasan Falls (Google Maps) is a waterfall that is very impressive in height. The road to it is in good condition and once you get to the parking lot in less than 5 minutes you are at the base of the waterfall where you can take a refreshing bath. Admission costs PHP 75 plus PHP 15 for parking.

Katibawasan Falls.

Binangawan Falls (Google Maps) is a very pretty waterfall nestled in the forest that you will most likely have just for yourself. The road is in good condition but very steep in places so be careful especially on the way back, make sure you have working brakes. The path down to the waterfall is also very steep and not exactly well maintained. Among the comments on Google Maps there are those who left precise directions. You can find the GPS coordinates here. In short, you have to go up the concrete steps and then once you get to what looks like a water filter you have to take the path on the left. If you go straight instead, after 50 meters or so there is a nice viewpoint where I witnessed a crazy good sunset.

Binangawan Falls.

Of the three main waterfalls on the island, Tusan Falls (Google Maps) is the only one I did not visit. The entrance fee is 50 PHP. Whether you decide to go or not, I still recommend taking the road to it at least once. Doing so takes you across the island from coast to coast with some interesting sights and more than a few bars or restaurants to stop and admire the view.

Sunset from the viewpoint near Binangawan Falls.

Ardent Hot Spring

Ardent Hot Spring (Google Maps) in recent years unfortunately seems to have a problem with the temperature of its spring. As many complain in reviews, the water is lukewarm rather than hot. Admission costs 50 PHP.

Ardent Hot Spring.

Island trekking

There are a couple of really interesting treks on the island, particularly the one leading to the crater lake of Mt. Hibok Hibok that you find described on this page. However, you need to get permission at least a day in advance from the Department of Environment and Natural Resources (DENR) and have a guide. It could be an interesting hike.

Personally, I completed Calvary (Google Maps), the path goes up the mountain and there are literally all fourteen stations of Calvary. It is a nice place to go and see the sunset. The entrance fee is Php 20. I didn’t have time for it but along the same trail there is the turn off that leads to the top of Mount Vulcan as described in detail on this page.

Mantigue Island.

Giant Clams Sanctuary & White Beach

The sanctuary (Google Maps) was closed during my visit because apparently there is a conflict between the owners and the local government. In any case, giant clams that can reach up to one meter can be seen here. Look at recent comments on google maps to see what the situation is. 

To conclude, Soda Water Pool (Google Maps) and Sto Niño Cold Spring (Google Maps) are two “pools” popular with local tourists. Looking at the photos, they didn’t seem like a big deal so I didn’t go there. But if you want to take a refreshing dip and spend a few hours relaxing, you might consider them.  

How to reach Camiguin?

Ferries from Bohol leave from the port of Jagna (Google Maps) and arrive at the port of Balbagon (Google Maps) three times a week (Super Shuttle Ferry). I paid PHP 766. In contrast, connections from Benoni Port (Google Maps) to Balingoan Port (Google Maps) on Mindanao Island are much more frequent with several daily departures. At Balbagon port you can rent a scooter right away for 350 PHP per day. Alternatively, there are a few jeepneys heading north and south. I paid 50 PHP to reach Benoni port not far from Camiguin Blue Lagoon Cottages.

If you leave early in the morning, it is possible to reach Camiguin from Siargao or vice versa within one day as described in detail in the section: “How to Reach Siargao” later in the guide. Finally, The island’s small airport has daily connections to Cebu City.

Katibawasan Falls.

Where to sleep in Camiguin?

The island does not offer many inexpensive options. I slept at Camiguin Blue Lagoon Cottages and I would recommend it. It is slightly away from the main tourist area but on the other hand, it is close to Mantigue Island and Benoni Harbor, from where ferries to Mindanao depart. Beach House Resort and Dive Center and Hostel Lions are two options in the north of the island.

Sunken Cemetery.

SIARGAO

The island directly facing the Pacific Ocean is especially known to travelers for its excellent surfing, literally some of the best in Southeast Asia.

What to do and see in Siargao

My stay in Siargao was heavily influenced by visiting the island during Holy Week when the whole country goes on vacation. Sold-out accommodations (I met more than a few travelers who had to leave the island because they had nowhere to sleep), full ferries, crowded places, and even some power outages due to too high demand for electricity. In essence, my experience was definitely skewed compared to other times of the year.

General Luna.

Surf

Cloud 9 (Google Maps) is the most famous surf break on the island. I don’t surf but I still wanted to go to see the location since there is a nice pier from where to watch the surfers but they still charge 100 PHP for the entrance so I just flew the drone. In case you are interested, there are plenty of people at the entrance willing to give some lessons. Little to do with surfing but not far from Cloud 9 there is a bridge where you can watch the sunset (Google Maps).

That said, Cloud 9 is just one of many places to surf and certainly not one of the least crowded. On this page you will find alternatives.

Cloud 9 observation platform.

Boat Tours

On the island there are at least a couple of “standard tours” leaving from General Luna plus another leaving from Del Carmen. Tours are offered everywhere; there is no need to book in advance.

I only participated in the tour to Sohoton National Park, famous for its caves and lagoons. The tour costs PHP 2,500. It starts with a long boat ride of about two hours then you have to transfer to smaller boats that take you to visit a couple of caves and a lagoon “infested” with really nice jellyfish that are not dangerous to humans. A buffet lunch follows before returning to General Luna. The national park offers spectacular scenery, it really is an amazing place but there were way, way too many people. 

Sohoton National Park.

The 3 Islands Tour is undoubtedly the most popular in Siargao. It costs PHP 1500 and basically you visit three islands off General Luna: Daku Island (Google Maps), Guyam Island (Google Maps) and Naked Island (Google Maps). You spend the day snorkeling or relaxing on the beach. Lunch is included in the price. Given my experience in Sohoton National Park I decided not to join the tour but at other times of the year I think it would be a nice way to spend the day.  

Daku Island.

From Del Carmen you can arrange a boat tour to Sugba Lagoon (Google maps) but also other stops such as the mangrove forest and Kawhagan Island (Google Maps). Given my experience in Sohoton National Park and uncooperative weather I decided not to do this but it can definitely be a nice excursion. Tours can be arranged directly at Del Carmen Harbor (Google maps). The boats carry up to six people, so finding someone to share it with, perhaps directly at the port, is ideal to cut down on costs. A detailed guide can be found on this page.

Finally, you can arrange a tour to Casolian Island (Google Maps) which is not part of the classic itineraries so it should be much quieter. I have not been there but you can find more information on this page.

Sohoton National Park.

Island tour Below I list some destinations that can be visited within the same day. This can be considered a DIY version of the “Land Tour” that is advertised in General Luna. Start the day with the Coconut Tree Overlook viewpoint (Google Maps) where you have a nice view of the expanse of palm trees that cover that part of the island, then continue along “Coconut Road,” the iconic road (Google Maps) just crosses the palm trees you just saw from above and provides an opportunity for some nice photos.

Coconut Road.

Then follows the Maasin Bridge (Google Maps) where you can rent kayaks or dive using the famous swing attached to the palm tree that hangs over the river. Admission costs PHP 20 while kayak rental costs PHP 300. Personally, I just took a few pictures from the bridge. 

Maasin Bridge.

Continuing north you can visit Tayangban Cave (Google Maps). The cave looks nice and there is a natural emerald pool to swim in. They wanted 100 PHP for the entrance plus another 200 PHP for the mandatory guide, it seemed like too much especially on my own so I skipped it.

The Magpupungko Tidal Pools (Google Maps) are natural pools that form at low tide. It is a very nice place indeed but there were a lot of people there (Holy Week). Anyway, admission costs 65 PHP. They have to be visited at low tide. Access is literally forbidden during high tide because it is too dangerous so adjust your visit accordingly. The nearby Magpopongko White Beach (Google Maps) is not so bad.

Magpupungko Tidal Pool.

Continuing north, Pacifico Beach (Google Maps) offers a nice beach and an opportunity to take some surfing lessons away from the chaos of General Luna. I spent a few days at La Finca Hostel in Pacifico and it is literally one of the best hostels I have ever stayed at.

Alegrai Beach (Google Maps) in the far north of the island is my favorite beach in Siargao. White beach, calm sea, crystal clear water and very few people. Finally, continuing along the coastal road is Taktak Falls (Google Maps). The waterfall is nothing special but if you are in the north of the island and want to take a refreshing swim, it is not that bad. The entrance costs 50 PHP, if you leave your scooter at the entrance and walk a few hundred meters you don’t have to pay the 20 PHP for parking.

Alegria Beach.

How to reach Siargao?

As written earlier, it is possible to reach Siargao in one day starting from Camiguin: take the first direct ferry to Balingoan from Benoni port (Google Maps) in my case at 6:00 am, 360 PHP. From the Balingoan terminal (Google Maps) take the first bus direct to Butuan, in my case at 7:30, 331 PHP for an air-conditioned bus with super comfortable seats, you can probably spend less but this one left right away. Arriving in Butuan be careful because there are two terminals, stay on board and get off at the second one. Here again I took an air-conditioned bus since it was leaving shortly after that i.e. at 11:00 heading to Surigao City. I paid 303 PHP. In front of the main exit of Surigao City station (Google Maps) there are Jeepneys that go to the port and cost only 15 PHP. At this point you have to take the 3:30 p.m. speedboat (Fast Craft), 400 PHP plus 15 PHP terminal fee. To check the schedule take a look at the Facebook page since they don’t seem to have an official website. In the morning there are ferries operated by Montenegro Lines that are slightly cheaper, they should cost 260 PHP but it is impossible to arrive that early from Camiguin. On this page you will find an article that seems to be updated frequently with the various options and schedules. The port of arrival is Dapa (Google Maps). From the port, there are mini buses that go to General Luna frequently. They leave from here and cost only 33 PHP. For connections to other parts of the island such as Pacifico, go to the Jeepney station (Google Maps). Alternatively, you could rent a scooter directly at the port. If for whatever reason you want to take a tuk tuk to get to General Luna, expect to pay about PHP 200.

Finally, from Siargao Airport (Google Maps) there are daily flights to both Cebu City and Manila. If you wanted, you could also fly to Surigao city and then reach the island by boat. From Surigao City there are also direct ferries to Cebu City and vice versa once a day except Saturdays operated by Starlite Ferries. The ferry departs in the morning at 9:00 a.m. from Surigao City with arrival at 6:30 p.m., while in the opposite direction it travels at night with departure at 9:00 p.m. 1200 PHP for a reclining seat, paying slightly more can get a berth.

Taktak Falls.

Where to sleep in Siargao?

Most travelers sleep in General Luna, where I stayed at Tropical Temple Siargao Resort and Kanto Hostel Siargao. Both are good options but nothing exceptional. I then spent a few days at La Finca Hostel in Pacifico and it is literally one of the best hostels I have ever stayed in. Clean, modern, comfortable. If you want to escape the chaos of General Luna or just spend a few days surfing in Pacifico, look no further.

Surfer in Pacifico.

BORACAY

Famous for its powdery white sand beach, crystal clear waters and beautiful sunsets, Boracay is perhaps the most popular island in the Philippines, or at least one of the first to develop a tourism industry. Over the years, the situation had become so critical that the island was closed six months to allow an extensive clean-up operation to save it from pollution and tourism-related excesses. There are mostly luxury resorts and hotels here, not exactly a backpacker’s destination even if some inexpensive options are not lacking. Personally, I decided not to visit mainly because it is inconvenient to reach unless flying. That said, I did meet one traveler who reported that he had a pleasant stay despite the “bad” reputation among backpackers. On this page you will find an article with some more information about it.

Cloud 9, Siargao.

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Suggested itineraries in the Philippines

To visit all the places described in this guide without jumping from one destination to another every second day would take at least two months. Considering that many people do not have that much time, I list below some itineraries that can be used as a starting point to build an itinerary based on one’s interests and in light of what has been described so far. I assume the arrival flight is in Manila but Cebu City also has several international connections.

One-week itinerary in the Philippines

With so little time to spare, I strongly recommend focusing on a couple of islands at most. Below I propose two alternatives:

Manila (1 night)

Day 1:

Depending on your arrival time you could pull straight to Puerto Princesa or Coron and not visit the city. Otherwise, a few hours in the historic center should be more than enough.

Port Barton (2 nights)

Day 2:

Flight to Puerto Princesa and direct transfer to Port Barton. Rest of the day at the beach or visit the falls. 

Day 3:

Boat tours in Port Barton.

El Nido (4 nights)

Day 4:

Transfer to El Nido, spend the rest of the day as you wish.

Day 5:

Expedition from El Nido to Coron day 1.

Day 6:

Expedition from El Nido to Coron day 2.

Day 7:

Expedition from El Nido to Coron day 3. With some luck you could catch a flight back to Manila or Cebu City in the afternoon.

Coconut Road, Siargao.

This itinerary can also be done in reverse. If you intend to do the expedition from El Nido to Coron as described you have to plan ahead and try to combine the various dates. Otherwise you could simply spend an extra day in El Nido doing one of the various boat tours, take the ferry to Coron and do a boat tour there as well. A second option might be the following:

Moalboal (2 nights)

Day 1:

From Cebu City, I recommend getting on the first bus to Moalboal and not even visiting the city. Sardine Run and then the rest of the day at the beach.

Day 2:

Kawasan Falls.

Siquijor (2 nights)

Day 3:

Transfer to Siquijor. Afternoon at the beach/marine sanctuaries.

Day 4:

Explore Siquijor by scooter.

Bohol (3 nights)

Day 5:

Ferry to Bohol. Spend the rest of the day at the beach in Panglao.

Day 6:

Explore Bohol by scooter.

Day 7:

Flight directly from Bohol or return to Cebu City by ferry.

Siquijor.

10-day itinerary in the Philippines

With about ten days to spare I personally would just follow one of the routes just described moving more slowly.

Two-week itinerary in the Philippines

With two weeks to spare I would combine the two one-week itineraries just described. There are direct flights to and from Cebu City from both Coron and Puerto Princesa so travel is fairly easy. 

Three-week itinerary in the Philippines

With about 20 days to spare I recommend combining the two week-long itineraries described and including another island which could be Camiguin, Malapascua in case you were interested in diving or perhaps Siargao for surfing.

One-month itinerary in the Philippines

Four weeks at your disposal open several options. Assuming you keep the two one-week itineraries described above as a base, from Moalboal you could head to Negros Oriental for a few days visiting Dumaguete and Dauin before continuing on to Siquijor, Bohol and perhaps even Camiguin from where you can then fly to Manila or Cebu City. 

Two-month itinerary in the Philippines

With two months to spare, you can pretty much visit all the destinations described in this guide, the order in which they are listed broadly represents the itinerary I followed and I think makes the most sense from a logistical point of view especially if you want to avoid flying more than “necessary.” 

Dumaluan Beach, Bohol.

How to get around the Philippines

First, I highly recommend downloading Organic Maps. I have been using the valuable offline maps for many years and I think they are a great tool for traveling. In any case getting around in the Philippines is pretty easy. Buses and Jeepneys are frequent and offer many connections. Also much of the population speaks a minimum of English which makes it very easy to get directions. That said, traveling from island to island can be time-consuming and require a minimum of planning but again, for most routes, ferries are fairly frequent.

Aggregators like 12go and Bookaway offer online booking for some buses and ferries, but they charge fees and might not display all available options. However, they remain a convenient way to book travel if you prefer less hassle.

Balicasag Island.

Buses in the Philippines

Generally, you can choose between air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned buses. While the former is more expensive, they offer greater comfort and make fewer stops for passenger pick-ups and drop-offs. I usually took the first available bus, but when given a choice, I found spending a bit more for a faster, more comfortable journey worthwhile.

Jeepney in the Philippines

A trip to the Philippines cannot be considered complete without boarding a jeepney full of locals. Jeepneys serve as public transportation for short and medium distances and are easily recognized by their decorations and coloring. On the side of the Jeepneys it almost always says the route they cover but in case just ask. They often have a station/parking lot dedicated to them that is different from the buses. Traveling with a single 40-liter backpack I have never had a problem but if you have a lot of luggage they are not at all a comfortable option since they are often filled to the brim. They have fixed fares based on the route and from what has been my experience they are honest with tourists.

Camiguin.

Habal Habal (mototaxi) in the Philippines.

Mototaxis, or Habal Habal as the locals call them, are a really practical and inexpensive way to cover short and medium distances where buses and jeepneys do not go. Often all you have to do is walk down the street for a ride to be offered. Otherwise, from what has been my experience, they seem to be dressed all the same with long sleeves and covered faces to shield themselves from the sun. Spotting them is really easy. It is always best to agree on the price before getting on; often the price is negotiable.

Taxis in the Philippines

Of actual Taxis in the Philippines I have taken literally two, so I don’t have much experience in this regard but as a general rule it is good to agree on the price before getting on. Unfortunately, apps like Grab only work in big cities. A slightly cheaper alternative is JoyRide.

Siquijor.

Ferries in the Philippines

There are dozens of different companies operating in the archipelago and the various aggregators like 12go and Bookaway do not include them all. I have tried to report the information gathered in the sections on how to get to the various destinations, but I still recommend inquiring locally and not blindly trusting online information.

Domestic flights in the Philippines

If booked in advance and traveling with carry-on luggage only, domestic flights can be extremely cheap and depending on the itinerary you could literally save days of travel. Philippine Airlines, Cebu Pacific and AirAsia are the three airlines.

Snorkelling in Mantigue Island, Camiguin.

Backpacking the Philippines: costs

How much does a trip to the Philippines cost? Over the course of my two-month trip (59 days to be exact) I spent exactly 2088.57€ or a little over 35€ per day including six dives, visa extension, domestic flights and even the not-cheap expedition from El Nido to Coron. 

Clearly for a short trip where you perhaps travel more frequently the costs go up and likewise not everyone is willing to travel as cheaply as I do. That being said, I assure you that I have never missed out on anything and in general the Philippines is undoubtedly an inexpensive destination like the rest of Southeast Asia. A particularly cheap traveler who does not participate in expensive activities can easily get away with spending less. Conversely, if you are looking for a little more comfort and frequent travel I would budget at least €40-50 per day. 

Coron Town.

Cost of accommodation in the Philippines

Except for El Nido where lodging has “crazy” prices you can easily stay in a good hostel for less than 10€ a night. Outside the big cities I have had several private rooms in guesthouses and small hotels paying around 10-15€ a night.

Cost of transportation in the Philippines

Getting around by land in the Philippines is quite inexpensive. Buses are really cheap but the moment you start taking ferries and domestic flights the costs rise and are likely to be a major expense in your budget.

Bohol.

Cost of food in the Philippines

As far as I am concerned, Filipino food is some of the worst I have ever eaten in my travels, but at least it is cheap. Clearly it depends on what kind of restaurant you are looking for but if you are not too pretentious, “Eateries” i.e., small local restaurants, where you often choose what to eat straight from the pot or at least the food is served buffet style, are a good option. You pay according to what you put on your plate. A meal usually costs around PHP 100. 

Speaking of food, I definitely recommend trying the two typical Filipino desserts, the Mango Float and the Halo Halo. The former is simply delicious.

Can-umantad waterfall, Bohol.

Other costs (withdrawals and sim cards)

Let’s start with withdrawal fees, which using the best cards for traveling can be reduced to zero. In fact HSBC allows you to withdraw up to PHP20000 per transaction with no fees, unfortunately from what I understand it is literally the only bank in the Philippines that does not charge fees and has atm only in Manila and Cebu City (the links are the locations where I have successfully withdrawn). All other banks charge a fee of PHP 200-300 and often a limit of only PHP 10000 per withdrawal. If you have a local sim, technically you can register on GCash and use Wise to reload the wallet with low fees. I have tried dozens of times without success but should you be luckier, GCash is accepted almost everywhere and can even be used to “withdraw” cash where it is accepted as a form of payment. If you are not yet registered on Wise, using this link gets you one transfer up to €500 completely free.

Regarding SIM cards, Smart is generally recommended for having the best coverage in the Philippines. While I always managed to connect, the speed was often less than ideal. Unfortunately, the Philippines isn’t known for its fast internet connectivity. Globe is the second-best option, so if you’re traveling as a couple, consider getting a second SIM with them to maximize coverage.

Chocolate Hills, Bohol.

Backpacking the Philippines: safety

Is the Philippines a safe country? Traveling to the Philippines presents no particular dangers and in general, somewhat like all of Southeast Asia, it is a safe destination. Of course, common sense should be used as in any other part of the world, but I doubt you will have any problems. 

In any case, I would think twice before walking in certain neighborhoods in Cebu and Manila or any other big city. Similarly, the island of Mindanao has a bad reputation, particularly the region to the west where separatist rebels operate. Kidnappings and terrorist attacks are unfortunately a reality. That said, I had a chance to talk to a Danish guy married to a local girl who visited the region and according to him, if it were not for a few army checkpoints, you would not even notice the extremely dangerous situation described by many government agencies. But I cannot speak from personal experience and I certainly do not recommend going there.

Are you planning a trip to the Philippines? Check out these posts:

The best cards for traveling

What to bring on your trip

Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!

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