Patagonia Travel Guide
Divided between Argentina and Chile, Patagonia is a unique place in the world. Here, you’ll find the majestic Andes, glaciers, waterfalls, and glacial lakes, creating some of the most beautiful and wild landscapes on the planet.
I spent 6 weeks backpacking through Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, and in this guide you’ll find lots of useful tips and information to plan your trip to the far south of the American continent on your own.
Quick menu
- When to visit Patagonia
- What to do and see in Patagonia
- Travel itineraries in Patagonia
- How to get around Patagonia
- Backpacking Patagonia: costs
- Backpacking Patagonia: what to bring
- Backpacking Patagonia: safety
Torres del Paine national park, Chile.
When to visit Patagonia
Generally speaking, the best time to visit Patagonia is during the summer, which corresponds to winter in the Northern Hemisphere, from December to February. However, this is also when prices are considerably higher and the parks are crowded: Torres del Paine and the most famous parks are literally overrun by tourists.
For this reason, I strongly recommend considering spring and fall, partly because, even though the weather tends to be better in summer, conditions in Patagonia can change quickly, within a few hours, at any time of the year.
Spring (September to October): This season usually offers pleasant daytime temperatures and cold nights, lower prices, and fewer people.
Fall (March to May): Comparable to spring in terms of temperatures, prices, and crowds, with the difference that the colors of the vegetation are a feast for the eyes.
To sum up, in my opinion the right compromise between prices and weather is October-November in spring and March-April in fall. September and May are “complicated” months, especially in the far south of Patagonia, where winter arrives earlier and ends later, so many tourism-related activities aren’t fully up and running yet or are even closed. For example, some campgrounds in Torres del Paine open on October 1 and close on April 30.
Personally, I visited Chilean and Argentine Patagonia between March and April, over the course of 6 weeks, during which the weather was really kind to me, with ups and downs, of course.
El Chaltén, Argentina.
Backpacking Patagonia: what to do and see
It should be noted that Patagonia is divided between Argentina and Chile, and although it’s the same region, the climate, vegetation, and landscapes vary greatly between the two sides of the Andes Mountains, which essentially serve as the border.
Argentine or Chilean Patagonia?
Argentine Patagonia is largely covered by the “Pampas,” an immense treeless plain that stretches from the foothills of the Andes to the Atlantic Ocean, while Chilean Patagonia is characterized by fjords and a temperate forest that covers it almost entirely.
My favorite? Without a doubt, Chilean Patagonia. In any case, below you’ll find detailed information on what to do and see on both sides of the Andes, all conveniently divided by region.
Backpacking Chilean Patagonia
As you see from the map above, Chilean Patagonia officially begins at Puerto Montt and therefore doesn’t include the Lakes Region and Chiloe Island. If you’re interested in visiting these regions as well, take a look at my travel guide for Chile.
Puerto Montt
Puerto Montt is a not particularly pretty port city that, for most travelers, serves as a starting point for exploring the Carretera Austral, the nearby island of Chiloe, taking a fjord cruise to Puerto Natales, or simply ending their adventure in Chile and crossing the border to Bariloche in Argentina.
Regarding the Puerto Montt – Puerto Natales cruise, this is the reference site; the trip lasts four days and three nights, and prices vary greatly depending on cabin type and time of year but start at a minimum of $400 for a dorm bed during high season.
From Puerto Montt to Bariloche it takes 6-7 hours by bus, costing 10,000-15,000 CLP.
Where to sleep in Puerto Montt?
Casa Perla is the cheapest option in town. The atmosphere is homey in every sense, since the owners (extremely friendly) live in the house. It’s not the best accommodation around, but it’s totally fine for a night, and the included breakfast is a bonus.
How to reach Puerto Montt?
From Pucon, it’s about 6 hours, 10000 CLP with JAC. There are frequent minibus connections with Puerto Varas (800 CLP). From Santiago, if booked in advance, it’s cheaper to fly. Flights to and from Punta Arenas (near Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine) are also really cheap if booked in advance and if you want to skip the Carretera Austral entirely.
Carretera Austral
The Carretera Austral is a 1240-kilometer-long road from Puerto Montt to Villa O’Higgins. Construction began in 1970 and is still a work in progress. Many sections are still unpaved and not in excellent condition. The road passes through landscapes that are nothing short of spectacular, across a sparsely populated area where wilderness still reigns.
With this mini-guide, I want to cover the most popular destinations and provide helpful information to enjoy this fantastic adventure to the fullest, as always keeping an eye on the budget, since the whole area is extremely expensive compared to the rest of Chile, which isn’t exactly a budget country to begin with.
First of all, I recommend stocking up on food in Puerto Montt, where there’s a big supermarket. Canned vegetables, tomato puree, rice, peanut butter and jam for breakfast, and freeze-dried soups are all great options.
I also recommend withdrawing enough cash. In Puerto Montt there’s a Banco Security branch, which, along with Banco Internacional, is one of the only two Chilean banks that don’t charge any withdrawal fees.
Puerto Bertrand.
How to travel along the Carretera Austral?
There are four ways to travel along the road:
- Hitchhiking is extremely popular, especially among backpackers. In Chile, hitchhiking is an extremely common practice, but especially in January and February the competition among hitchhikers is really high, so you risk getting stuck in the middle of nowhere. That’s why it’s a good idea to bring a tent.
- Public transportation exists along the road, but it’s much more expensive than in the rest of the country and infrequent on some routes, so it takes a good deal of planning. If you decide to rely on public transportation, I recommend asking around and buying your tickets for the next destination as soon as you arrive, because especially in January-February there’s a risk of not getting a seat.
- Renting a car in Puerto Montt costs about 25-30€ per day, which isn’t that bad if split with a couple of people.
- By bike or on foot. It’s a very popular destination among bike tourers from all over the world, but some people even do it on foot.
Personally, I used a combination of public transportation and hitchhiking. Below, I list the most popular stops along the way.
Chaiten
It’s a small town at the beginning of Carretera Austral that was partially destroyed by the eruption of the volcano of the same name in 2008.
The main attraction here is Parque Pumalin, which came into existence in 1991 after Douglas Tompkins (founder of “The North Face” brand) acquired about 42,000 acres. In the following years, he purchased another 700,000 acres, creating a series of trails, campgrounds, and publicly accessible facilities.
Here you can find all available trails, as well as information on campgrounds, park history, etc.
I only did the Chaiten Volcano trail (All Trails), which I recommend. It’s 2-3 hours round trip to reach the smoking base of the volcano and then come back down the same trail. Given the recent eruption, the scenery is really striking.
I reached the trailhead, a few kilometers north of Chaiten, by hitchhiking, really easily, but there’s also a day tour to the volcano that includes transportation and a guide; it should cost about 5,000 CLP.
The smoking Chaiten volcano.
How to reach Chaiten?
From Puerto Montt, Kemel bus leaves every morning at 7:00, and the trip between fjords and snow-capped mountains is really scenic. It takes about 8 hours, including two ferry crossings, and costs 14,000 CLP. There’s also a ferry that arrives weekly from Chiloé.
Where to sleep in Chaiten?
I slept at Hostel Las Nalcas, which seems to be the cheapest option in town. The lady is friendly, and there’s access to the kitchen. The cost is 10,000 CLP per night in the dorm. All in all, I recommend it.
Futaleufu
It’s a small village surrounded by mountains, only 16 km from the border with Argentina. Many people come to this little village tucked away in the mountains just for rafting: there are class 4 and 5 rapids along the beautiful river. The cost is about 45,000 CLP for a half-day tour.
In addition to rafting, there are a couple of scenic spots around town and the nearby “Reserva Nacional Futaleufu,” which has a couple of marked trails (free admission). The tourist office (Google Maps) near the plaza provides maps of the area’s trails.
How to reach Futaleufu?
Two buses a day make the Chaiten – Futaleufu route. It takes about 4 hours, and the cost is only 2000 CLP (they’re subsidized by the state).
From Esquel in Argentina, it’s about 3 hours, 4500 CLP.
Where to sleep in Futaleufu?
Hostal y Cabanas Los Abuelos is the only real hostel in the village, 10,000 CLP for a dorm bed. There are, however, lots of hospedajes scattered around the village that offer private rooms for the same price.
Futaleufu river.
Puyuhuapi
It’s a small German-influenced town overlooking one of the many fjords that characterize the region. There isn’t much to do in town except for a viewpoint (not too impressive either), but it’s a great base for exploring the nearby Queulat National Park (11,400 CLP for foreign adults, updated October 2026), where you can admire the majestic Ventisquero Colgante glacier (hanging glacier), and the fascinating Bosque Encantado (3000 CLP, Google Maps) a little further south. You have to book your visit to Queulat in advance on the official website, because they don’t sell tickets at the entrance.
With a bit of luck, it’s possible to hitchhike to both places on the same day, then return to Puyuhuapi to spend the night and depart for Coyhaique the following day. Theoretically, there’s even a private bus that leaves if there are enough people interested in the Puyuhuapi -> Queulat -> Bosque Encantado -> Puyuhuapi “tour.”
From what I remember, only two buses a week run the Puyuhuapi -> Coyhaique route, but things may have changed, and it’s worth talking to locals as some of these companies don’t have websites.
How to reach Puyuhuapi?
From the north by bus, from what I know, there are only two buses a week that travel the Chaiten -> Puyuhuapi route; the days should be Wednesday and Sunday during the summer. In any case, I recommend checking the website. I hitchhiked the stretch of road.
Where to sleep in Puyuhuapi?
Hostel Evelyn, on the left along the main road toward the end of the village, is the cheapest option, at 8000 CLP, but in all honesty, it’s not the best.
Ventisquero Colgante.
Coyhaique
It’s the largest town along the Carretera Austral. There are two big supermarkets here with decent prices compared to the rest of the region, so I recommend stocking up. Coyhaique National Reserve isn’t far from town, but from what I’ve read, it doesn’t seem to be anything spectacular. My advice is to take advantage of the supermarket, spend the night, and move on the next day.
How to reach Coyhaique?
In addition to the two Becker buses a week that run the Chaiten -> Puyuhuapi route, there should be another minibus that only runs the Puyuhuapi – Coyhaique route once a week. I hitchhiked this stretch of road.
Villa Cerro Castillo
About 100 km south of Coyhaique, crossing the highest pass on the Carretera Austral at 1100 m, you’ll find the small town of Villa Cerro Castillo. Here, the main attraction is the nature reserve of the same name, which some call the new Torres del Paine.
If you have camping gear with you, it’s possible to do some multi-day treks; otherwise, I recommend the day hike to the lagoon just below Cerro Castillo (All Trails). The hike is spectacular and highly recommended. At a normal pace, it’s about 3-4 hours up and 2-3 hours down.
Entry to the reserve costs 20,000 CLP for foreigners (updated October 2026), but in early April, no one was there to collect the money.
Cerro Castillo.
Where to sleep in Villa Cerro Castillo?
Sendero Patagonia is by far the best hostel along the Carretera Austral: hot water, a well-stocked kitchen, Wi-Fi, and a great heated common area. Especially during the high season, I recommend booking in advance on their website. It’s 10,000 CLP for a bed with sheets and blankets, 8000 CLP if you have your own sleeping bag, and 5000 CLP to camp. The owners are really nice and know the area inside out, so they can give you all the information you need for one or more days of trekking inside the Cerro Castillo Reserve. Highly recommended.
How to reach Villa Cerro Castillo?
Some minibuses run the Coyhaique – Cochrane route daily; one company is called Buses Don Carlos, with daily departures at 9:30. You can find the complete list of companies here (day abbreviations are in Spanish). I hitchhiked this stretch of road.
Puerto Rio Tranquilo
It’s about 3 hours south of Villa Cerro Castillo. Here, a visit to the “capillas de marmol” (marble caves, Google Maps) is highly recommended. The excursion costs between 5,000 and 10,000 CLP; the price is negotiable because the many companies you’ll find at the port compete with each other and are willing to lower their prices just to fill the boat. Tours start more or less at all hours of the day, so if possible, I recommend waiting for a sunny moment so that the colors of the caves and of the water itself really stand out.
This is where many people end, or start, their adventure on the Carretera Austral to cross the border into Argentina. To do so by public transportation, you first have to head to Chile Chico; there’s a company that runs the route daily (17,000 CLP). From the border, there’s a minibus that shuttles to Los Antiguos for 100 Argentine pesos; the alternative is to walk for about an hour and a half. Once in Los Antiguos, buses going up or down Ruta 40 are frequent.
The Marble Cathedral.
Where to sleep in Puerto Rio Tranquilo?
Hospedaje y Camping Bellavista is really great. The place is clean, with a spacious common area, a well-stocked kitchen, hot water, and wifi. They have private rooms and dorms. 10000 CLP per night for a bed, and I think 5000 for camping.
How to reach Puerto Rio Tranquilo?
From Argentina, follow the instructions above. When coming from Villa Cerro Castillo, you can take any minibus that runs the Coyhaique – Cochrane route daily. For this stretch of the road, after attempting to hitchhike for a couple of hours in Villa Cerro Castillo, I ended up taking the second bus of the day, paying something like 7000 CLP.
Cochrane
The drive to Cochrane, the second largest town after Coyhaique along the Carretera Austral, is really scenic. Once in town, there’s a fairly large supermarket just off the main square, free wifi all around the central park, and a bank. Here, I recommend stocking up on food if you need it.
About 5 km from town is the Tamango National Reserve, which can easily be visited in a day and offers a couple of really nice, well-marked trails. This is the trail I hiked.
For the more adventurous and prepared, a trail network allows you to cross the entire Tamango Reserve, enter Parque Patagonia further north, and reach Chile Chico in 3 to 5 days. Find a description of the hike here.
Lake Cochrane, Tamango National Reserve.
Where to sleep in Cochrane?
There are several hospedajes and hostels scattered around the town. I was approached by a lady who offered me a private room for 8000 CLP while I was using the wifi in the plaza. The address should be 200 Teniente Merino. In any case, there’s no shortage of options.
How to reach Cochrane?
This is the same bus “line” that covers Villa Cerro Castillo and Puerto Rio Tranquilo, so you can take any minibus that runs the Coyhaique – Cochrane route daily. I started hitchhiking early in the morning (it’s worth it), planning to take the bus later in case it didn’t work out; after 10 minutes, a couple of Chilean tourists headed to Caleta Tortel gave me a ride.
Caleta Tortel
It’s an interesting little village, really picturesque and one of a kind, because there are no roads, only a system of boardwalks connecting the various parts of town. The village was first connected by land to the rest of Chile only in 2003 and immediately became a major tourist attraction.
In addition to strolling along the boardwalks and savoring the magical atmosphere of this small village lost in the Chilean fjords, I recommend climbing to the Mirador Cerro Vigía (Google Maps), which overlooks the village on the left and the mouth of the Rio Cochrane on the right, with the mountains in the background.
Caleta Tortel.
From here, you basically have two options to continue your journey south, besides, of course, turning back to Chile Chico and crossing the border, or perhaps reaching Puerto Montt to fly to Punta Arenas (or whatever other route you have in mind!):
- Reaching Villa O’Higgins (where the Carretera Austral officially ends). Theoretically, there’s also a direct bus that covers the Caleta Tortel – Villa O’Higgins route, but I’m not sure. There isn’t much to do here, and getting there is simply a matter of principle for many. However, it’s possible to cross the border into El Chalten in Argentina, but it’s not easy. In fact, there are no roads, and the only way to do it is by taking a ferry (plus an optional second one) that leaves only a couple of times a week during the summer season and then walking at least 22km (another 12km if you don’t take the second ferry). The whole thing is generally done in two days and thus requires camping gear. Here you’ll find an extremely detailed article with prices and a description of the route.
- The second option is a spectacular trip through the fjords aboard a ferry that covers the Puerto Yungay – Caleta Tortel – Puerto Natales (Torres del Paine) route in about two days. The trip costs 125,000 CLP, including food. Departures vary depending on the time of year, and booking in advance during peak season is highly advisable. This is the reference site.
Where to sleep in Caleta Tortel?
Hospedaje Giselle is the cheapest option in the village; the common area where the kitchen is located is well heated, there’s a hot shower, and overall it’s a good place to stay, 10000 CLP. There’s a free municipal campground.
How to reach Caleta Tortel?
At least 2-3 companies cover the Cochrane – Caleta Tortel route almost daily. During the high season, I recommend asking around and buying your ticket as soon as you arrive in Cochrane. I took the bus for fear of missing the ferry I had already paid for, but as always, hitchhiking is an option.
What I’ve described so far are the most popular stops along the Carretera Austral; obviously they’re not the only ones, and if your budget allows, there are lots of tours, for example the one to the San Rafael Lagoon from Puerto Rio Tranquilo or the O’Higgins Glacier, which seem to be spectacular.
The “streets” of Caleta Tortel.
Punta Arenas
It’s the largest city in southern Chile. Many travelers use it solely as an arrival point to move on to Puerto Natales and visit nearby Torres del Paine National Park since flights from Santiago and Puerto Montt are quite cheap.
I haven’t been to Punta Arenas as my ferry from Caleta Tortel went directly to Puerto Natales, where I was going to meet my sister, who was flying in from Santiago; while waiting, she visited Porvenir by ferry, a small fishing village on the other side of the Strait of Magellan. Nothing exceptional, apparently, but definitely a good way to spend a day, perhaps while waiting to catch a plane.
Another popular excursion from Punta Arenas is to Magdalena Island, which has a massive colony of penguins. However, the ferry is quite expensive.
How to reach Punta Arenas?
There are frequent buses to Puerto Natales, about 3 hours, 7000 CLP, while to Ushuaia it’s about 12 hours, 25,000 CLP. By plane from Santiago or Puerto Montt, prices aren’t bad at all; check out the airline Sky.
Where to sleep in Punta Arenas?
Hostel Entre Vientos is a great hostel with breakfast included; my sister was happy with it.
Puerto Natales
If you want to explore the famous Torres del Paine National Park, you’ll likely have to go through Puerto Natales sooner or later. Here, you can find several stores that rent camping gear in case you need it, and a big supermarket (Unimarc) with decent prices where you can stock up.
This is a great guide for organizing your trek in Torres del Paine independently.
Grey Glacier, Torres del Paine.
If you’re doing the W as described in the guide, on the last day, if you walk at a decent pace and still have some energy left, you can easily walk all the way to the bus stop without taking the shuttle (there’s even a trail that cuts across the dirt road in places). I want to stress that campsites/refugios must be booked VERY far in advance and, if possible, avoid January and February, when the park is literally overrun by tourists. Don’t worry about drinking water, since every stream away from the trails provides it. For the rest, check the guide I just mentioned.
The park is truly stunning, and I strongly recommend doing at least the W circuit, but if for whatever reason you can’t (physical condition or full campsites/refugios, for example), there’s always the option of visiting the park on day trips and seeing at least Grey Glacier and the towers on two separate days, returning to Puerto Natales for the night.
Where to sleep in Puerto Natales?
Hostel la Bitacora is a great family-run hostel that, besides being extremely cheap, offers a delicious breakfast buffet.
How to reach Puerto Natales?
From Punta Arenas, buses are frequent, about 3 hours, 7000 CLP.
From El Calafate and El Chalten in Argentina, buses are frequent.
From Caleta Tortel, along the Carretera Austral, by ferry.
Backpacking Argentine Patagonia
While Argentine Patagonia officially begins much further north, for many people the first stop within the region is Bariloche, near the Chilean border, or Puerto Madryn on the Atlantic coast. If you’re interested in visiting destinations further north, such as Iguazu Falls and much more, I recommend checking out my travel guide to Argentina.
Puerto Madryn
It’s a fairly popular summer destination despite not being part of the classic itinerary. Here are some of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in the country, but it’s especially a great base for exploring the nearby Valdes Peninsula, where you can observe a lot of marine wildlife.
What to do and see in Puerto Madryn
As mentioned earlier, the real attraction is the nearby Valdes Peninsula, a UNESCO site for its unique wildlife and geology. Here, it’s possible to observe some penguin colonies from October to March, while whale season is from June to mid-December. Among the many other species present are sea lions, seals, armadillos, guanacos, maras, gray foxes, and, with any luck, killer whales that attack the seals on shore at Punta Norte in April.
The most popular way to visit the peninsula is on a tour from Puerto Madryn; the tour starts around 7:30 and ends around 19:00, and the stops are Puerto Pirámides (for the whales), Caleta Valdes (penguins), and Punta Norte.
Many travelers decide to rent a car in Puerto Madryn to explore the peninsula without being tied to a tour. If you’re only interested in the whales, you could take a bus to Puerto Pirámides and haggle for a boat tour; this is the only option with public transportation, and you’d end up missing the rest of the peninsula.
Puerto Pirámides, Valdes peninsula.
Where to sleep in Puerto Madryn?
La Casa de Tounens has an average review score of 9.8 and is also among the cheapest in town; breakfast is included and the owners are extremely friendly. La Tosca is another great hostel with lots of private rooms.
How to reach Puerto Madryn?
There are direct connections to Buenos Aires and Mar del Plata to the north, as well as Rio Gallegos to the south and Esquel to the west.
San Carlos de Bariloche
This town in the foothills of the Andes, built on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi and surrounded by the national park of the same name, is extremely popular all year round with both tourists and locals, because when the hiking season ends, the ski season begins. In fact, here you’ll find the largest ski resort in South America, Cerro Catedral, only 20 km from the center of Bariloche.
What to do and see in Bariloche
As mentioned above, the main activities are hiking and skiing, but you’ll definitely find things to do in town too, since it’s famous for its chocolate and craft beer production. Now, let’s look at some of the most popular excursions.
N.B. To use public transportation in Bariloche, you need to purchase a prepaid card called “SUBE.” It’s the same one in operation in Buenos Aires, so if you already have it, keep it.
Laguna Escondida, Circuito Chico.
Circuito Chico
This is about a 60 km route that can be done by bike or bus (line 10). After talking with the hostel owner, however, I decided to do only the northern part of the circuit since, in his opinion, the next section isn’t as pleasant. Of course, I can’t confirm this, but I decided to trust him! Besides, the northern part of the circuit can be done on foot thanks to a system of well-marked and maintained trails that keep you away from the main paved road where all the traffic is. To do the northern part of the Circuito Chico on foot, follow these steps:
- Download Organic Maps. It works offline, and unlike Google Maps, all the trails in question are plotted; the following directions will be much clearer with a map in front of you.
- Take bus number 20 to Hotel Llao Llao and get off at the second-to-last stop; the last stop is the hotel itself, and then the bus turns around and returns. If, like me, you tend to “sleep,” then get off at the hotel and walk back; it’s a few hundred meters.
- Instead of heading up toward the hotel from the second-to-last stop, take a right and walk along the paved road for about 1 km before finding a trail on your left leading to Mirador Lago Moreno (Google Maps).
- Continue along the trail until you come out on the main road. Follow it for a few hundred meters before taking the trail on the right, and at the fork, turn left toward Laguna Escondida (Google Maps).
- Go back along the same trail and continue toward Mirador Del Tacul once you reach the fork where you had turned left.
- I then went down to the shores of the lake to have lunch, but if you prefer, you can head straight on to the Mirador del Cerro Llao Llao (Google Maps).
- Once you descend from the Cerro, take a right and follow the path back to the main road, not far from where you turned left to Mirador Lago Moreno earlier in the day. From here, walk to the bus stop.
The whole thing is extremely easy, especially with the help of Organic Maps, and undoubtedly a great way to spend the day.
Mirador del Cerro Llao Llao.
Cerro Campanario
Cerro Campanario (Google Maps) offers excellent views of the lakes and the mountains surrounding Bariloche. It’s located along the same road that leads to the Circuito Chico and can, therefore, be conveniently visited on the same day. From the bus stop, it’s about a 30-minute walk; alternatively, you can take the ski lift. To get back from here to downtown Bariloche, you can also take buses 10 and 21.
Refugio Frey
This is a lovely day hike (All Trails) that can be done by taking the bus to Villa Catedral (line 55, approximately every hour). Once you arrive at the parking lot, stand facing the mountain, and you’ll find the beginning of the trail at the far end of the parking lot on the left; there’s a sign that says “Frey.” From there, the trail that goes through the woods and leads to the refugio is well-marked and maintained, and as always, it’s plotted on Organic Maps.
Other excursions in and around Bariloche
These hikes listed so far are the ones I’ve had a chance to do and would recommend, but there are plenty of other one- or multi-day hikes in the surrounding area. You can sleep in the refugios (especially during the high season, they have to be booked in advance) or in a tent if you bring one with you. If you’re an avid trekker and you have time on your hands, I recommend you check out this site.
Ruta de los Siete Lagos (the road of the seven lakes)
This is the name of road 234 between San Martin de los Andes and Villa La Angostura. The 107-kilometer-long road passes through Lanin and Nahuel Huapi National Parks and, as you might have guessed, gives access to several lakes. One-day tours are offered from Bariloche, but many travelers prefer to rent a car for a couple of days and camp, while others hitchhike; the choice is yours. Here you’ll find an interesting account of the circuit done by car.
If you’re interested, you could spend a few nights between San Martin de los Andes and Villa La Angostura. They’re not part of the typical itinerary, and I was told there isn’t much to do except for a hike to the Bosque Arrayanes from Villa La Angostura, but they’re two picturesque villages where you could spend a few days relaxing.
Laguna Toncek, Refugio Frey.
Where to sleep in Bariloche?
Bariloche Hostel is a great budget hostel near the center of Bariloche; it has friendly and helpful staff, a well-equipped kitchen, and a common area overlooking the lake.
How to reach Bariloche?
From here, there are direct buses to Buenos Aires, Mendoza, Cordoba, and all destinations south along Ruta 40 (Esquel, El Bolson, El Calafate, El Chalten). You can also take buses to continue your trip in Chile toward Puerto Montt and Osorno, which aren’t far away, or go to Santiago.
Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.
El Bolsón
It’s a small village near Bariloche that’s particularly popular with hippies worldwide, Argentine students, and travelers. There are lots of self-sufficient communities and, more generally, ecotourism-related activities.
What to do and see in El Bolsón
As you may have already guessed, many people come simply to relax and spend a few “alternative” days in this small town lost in the mountains, tasting artisanal beer and ice cream, visiting the local market, practicing yoga, etc. For trekking lovers, there are also lots of one- or multi-day hikes from El Bolsón with the option of sleeping in refugios. For information on this, you can check out this site or, once you arrive, visit the tourist center directly.
Where to sleep in El Bolsón?
Earthship Patagonia is a great modern, eco-friendly place near the village center, with a relaxed atmosphere.
How to reach El Bolsón?
Ruta 40 literally runs right through the village, so all the buses going south from Bariloche pass through there. From the coast, there are connections to Trelew.
Esquel
The town is about 150 kilometers south of El Bolsón and is an ideal base for visiting the nearby Los Alerces National Park. Although it’s not very busy, it’s considered among the best in the country and is definitely worth a visit.
N.B. Esquel is only 60 km from the Chilean border, and there are daily buses to the border, where you then connect to the not-so-distant Futaleufu, in Chile. From here, you can continue your journey south into Chile along the Carretera Austral and avoid the great expanse of nothingness that separates Esquel from El Chalten, and then re-enter Argentina, for example, from Chile Chico. For more information, look for the section on the Carretera Austral in the article I just linked.
What to do and see in Esquel
The town itself is nothing special, and as mentioned above, in my opinion the only worthwhile reasons to visit are the nearby national park and short excursions in the surrounding area.
Los Alerces national park.
Los Alerces National Park
The park can be visited in a day, or you can opt to camp overnight: there are paid campsites with facilities, free camping areas, and some lodges that offer various services at different price points. I had planned to spend a few nights in a tent, but unfortunately, due to the time of year (May), many trails were closed or under maintenance.
In any case, a company operates the route from the bus terminal to the park with several daily departures (schedules vary depending on the time of year; ask for information as soon as you get to the bus terminal). The minibus stops at the entrance for about ten minutes, allowing passengers to disembark and visit the ranger’s office for a map or any necessary information. I even got a mini lesson on the park’s flora and fauna from the super friendly ranger. This is where I found out that many trails were closed, so I decided to turn my visit into a day hike, and I didn’t pay the entrance fee, maybe because it was low season and many trails were closed.
For a day hike, I recommend the following: get back on the bus and get off at the start of the trail to the Laguna Verde mirador; there’s a nice viewpoint nearby. Afterward, return to the road and head toward Puerto Chucao, crossing the bridge. Along the way, you’ll encounter an approximately 300-year-old alerce tree (indicated by a sign). Upon reaching the pier, the trail continues, eventually completing a loop that leads back to the bridge. Then, return to the main road and proceed to Laguna Escondida before making your way back to the road, where you can catch the first bus back to Esquel. All the trails and points of interest just mentioned are plotted on Organic Maps.
On the way to Laguna Escondida.
There are lots of other, more or less challenging trails within the park, and if you visit during the high season, there’s a combined boat and hiking excursion from Puerto Limonao to a forest of nothing but alerce trees, where you can admire “El Abuelo,” a specimen about 2,600 years old.
Where to sleep in Esquel?
Casa del Pueblo is a somewhat expensive hostel, but there isn’t much competition in town, and in any case, the service offered is great and breakfast is included.
How to reach Esquel?
There are daily buses to Buenos Aires, Puerto Madryn, Bariloche, and the Chilean border. However, connections to the south (El Chalten, El Calafate) are often every other day, especially in the low season.
El Chalten
The small town, which began as an Argentine outpost in the late 1970s to anticipate possible territorial claims by Chile, has become a huge tourist hub over the years thanks to its proximity to two of the most famous peaks in the Andes: Cerro Torre and Mount Fitz Roy.
What to do and see in El Chalten
As you may have already guessed, the main activity is trekking. Coming from El Calafate, our bus stopped at the tourist center before entering the village (I think this is standard procedure). Here they give you tips and information for visiting the park (which is free) and a real 10-minute or so “lesson” before you get back on the bus to the terminal.
There are many one-day and multi-day hikes around El Chalten, and it’s possible to camp for free in dedicated areas along the trails. Below, I list the most popular ones. The trails are well marked, but as always, you’ll find them well plotted on Organic Maps.
Mount Fitz Roy and Laguna de Los Tres
Laguna de Los Tres is located at the base of the famous Mount Fitz Roy. This is a really spectacular trek and not particularly challenging except for the last kilometer and a half, which is entirely uphill. From the center of El Chalten, it’s about 22 kilometers round trip and 800 meters of elevation gain, 6-8 hours depending on your pace (All Trails); my advice is to leave early to avoid the crowds and especially the clouds that often obscure the summit. If you have a tent, you can camp at “Campamento Poincenot,” at the base of the last climb. By leaving early the next day and with a bit of luck, you can watch the first light of day hit this spectacular peak and get your postcard photo.
Mount Fitz Roy.
Cerro Torre and Laguna Torre
Cerro Torre is a legendary peak among mountaineers worldwide because of its controversial history and especially the fact that, despite being only 3128 meters high, it remains one of the most difficult mountains to climb. The trek to Laguna Torre, which lies at the base of this legendary peak, is another great El Chalten classic. From the village center to the lagoon, it’s about 19 km round trip, mostly flat; in fact, it’s only 250 meters of elevation gain (All Trails). Here too, the peak shrouded in perennial ice is often surrounded by clouds, so I recommend leaving early in the morning; as you can see from the photo, I had no luck this time. If you’re up for a long day, you can combine the two trails as described here.
These are by far the two most popular treks I recommend in El Chalten; other short hikes to do, perhaps between days to rest or perhaps while waiting for the night bus as I did, are those to Mirador Condor and Mirador Las Aguilas (Google Maps) – the two hills behind the tourist office. The Chorrillo del Salto waterfall (All Trails) is a pretty waterfall only 5 km from the center of El Chalten, on completely flat ground.
Laguna Torre; unfortunately, Cerro Torre wasn’t visible.
Where to sleep in El Chalten?
I visited El Chalten during the low season, as you can tell from the fall colors in the photos. With my sister and a couple of friends, we found an apartment on Booking in a residence complete with a heated pool for just over 10 euros a night. If you’re traveling alone, Lo de Trivi seems to be a good budget hostel.
How to reach El Chalten?
From Bariloche, heading south, there are daily buses during the high season (about 24 hours, 2400 ARS in February 2018); they all pass through El Bolson, Esquel, Perito Moreno (the town, not the glacier), and Los Antiguos, where you can cross the border to Chile Chico in Chile.
From El Calafate, there are several buses a day, 2 and a half hours.
N.b. If you’re coming from the south and want to continue your trip north along the Carretera Austral in Chile, you can cross the border to Villa O’Higgins with a combination of ferries and trekking. You’ll find everything in this article.
El Calafate
It’s a small town not far from El Chalten that has become a regular stop for those visiting Argentine Patagonia over the years because the famous Perito Moreno glacier is about 80 km from the city.
What to do and see in El Calafate
There are many excursions offered in the town, glacier trekking, boat tours, 4×4, and even helicopter tours, but I honestly don’t have any information about them. I assure you they aren’t low-cost, so I’ll only talk about the visit to Perito Moreno, which in itself isn’t cheap.
Perito Moreno Glacier
If you’re traveling alone, the cheapest way to reach the park is on one of the many minibuses departing from the bus terminal (420 ARS in April 2017, but already 600 ARS in November 2017 from what I read online), or hitchhiking, especially in high season.
If you’re traveling in a group or as a couple, consider the following options: a round-trip taxi with a 2-hour stop cost 1300 ARS (negotiable) in April 2017, so with four people it was cheaper than the bus. At the time, I was traveling with my sister, two friends, and a fifth person interested in sharing the trip, so we ended up renting a car from a local agency for 1100 ARS including gas. So we spent about 250 ARS each. In short, do the math. Admission to the park costs 50,000 ARS for foreigners (updated October 2026).
Perito Moreno Glacier.
The park is really well maintained, with a series of boardwalks, similar to those at Iguazu Falls, leading to a series of viewpoints where you can admire the glacier from different angles and get relatively close to it. My advice is to take a look at the map once you arrive, so you can put together a sort of circuit to follow. I recommend bringing a packed lunch. As impressive as the site is, in my opinion a couple of hours are more than enough to complete the various paths and admire the glacier.
Where to sleep in El Calafate?
Again, thanks to the low season, the four of us stayed at Apart Hotel el Jardin de los Presentes for about 10 euros each; it’s a really nice mini apartment on two floors, but I doubt it’s that cheap in high season. If you’re traveling alone, Bla Guesthouse seems to be a great, fairly cheap place.
How to reach El Calafate?
To El Chalten (to the north), connections are frequent, 2 and a half hours. Puerto Natales in Chile (to the south), where Torres del Paine is located, is about 5 hours away by bus. In fact, if you intend to reach Ushuaia by land from here, you necessarily have to cross a piece of Chile.
Ushuaia
Here we are at the “end of the world.” Located in the so-called “Tierra del Fuego,” it’s considered by many to be the southernmost city in the world; this is more of a tourist slogan because, technically, the record would belong to Puerto Williams in Chile. You can take a look at the curious ranking here.
What to do and see in Ushuaia
I’ll start by saying that I stopped in Puerto Natales without going that far south, partly because of time, partly because of budget (the city is really expensive), but mainly because I was told that the city doesn’t have much to offer, unless you can afford a cruise to Antarctica – it starts at a minimum of 4000€ for a last-minute one! The nearby Tierra del Fuego National Park was described to me as the least spectacular in all of Patagonia; the bus to get there costs 500 ARS (round trip, about 15 km; price as of January 2018), the entrance 40,000 ARS for foreigners (updated October 2026), and all the trails can be completed in one day. In short, in my opinion, for many, it’s more a matter of saying “I’ve been there.”
The town of Ushuaia.
Where to sleep in Ushuaia?
In high season, expect to pay around 20 euros per night for a dorm bed; you can take a look here.
How to reach Ushuaia?
There are daily buses to and from Rio Gallegos in Argentina. From there, there are connections to all destinations in Argentine Patagonia. There are also buses from Punta Arenas in Chile, which has frequent connections to Puerto Natales. By air, there are several flights a day to and from Buenos Aires.
Recommended travel itineraries in Patagonia
Below I list some travel itineraries ranging from Chilean or Argentine Patagonia alone, and a few itineraries that touch both regions. Of course, take the following itineraries as inspiration and modify them according to your interests and what you’ve read so far.
15-day Patagonia itinerary
This is the “classic itinerary” that covers the major tourist destinations, from the Perito Moreno Glacier to Torres del Paine National Park, passing through El Chalten: the highlights of Patagonia.
The itinerary can be easily followed starting from either Santiago or Buenos Aires, since there are direct buses from both capitals to Bariloche (the first stop) and the travel time is similar; if you prefer to fly or intend to visit Puerto Madryn, then Buenos Aires is more convenient.
Buenos Aires/Santiago (1 night)
Day 1:
I recommend spending the day in Santiago or Buenos Aires and taking the night bus the next day.
Bariloche (3 nights)
Day 2:
Transfer to Bariloche.
Day 3:
Circuito Chico. Cerro Campanario.
Day 4:
Trekking to Refugio Frey.
El Chalten (3 nights)
Day 5:
Overnight bus to El Chalten in the afternoon.
Day 6:
Trekking to Laguna de los Tres (Mount Fitz Roy).
Day 7:
Trekking to Laguna Torre.
El Calafate (1 night)
Day 8:
Transfer to El Calafate in the morning. Visit Perito Moreno in the afternoon.
Puerto Natales (5 nights)
Day 9:
Transfer from El Calafate to Puerto Natales. Preparation for next day’s trek.
Day 10:
Day one of the W trek in Torres del Paine.
Day 11:
Day two of the W trek in Torres del Paine.
Day 12:
Day three of the W trek in Torres del Paine.
Day 13:
Day four of the W trek in Torres del Paine.
Day 14:
Day five of the W trek in Torres del Paine. Return to Puerto Natales and possibly spend the night in Punta Arenas if you need to return to Santiago or Río Gallegos if you need to return to Buenos Aires.
Day 15:
Flight Punta Arenas – Santiago or Río Gallegos – Buenos Aires. Flight home.
Argentine Patagonia backpacking itinerary (2 weeks)
If, for any reason, you prefer to limit yourself to Argentine Patagonia alone, I suggest following the itinerary I just described starting from Buenos Aires and, instead of visiting Torres del Paine National Park, once you arrive in El Calafate, continue to Ushuaia.
Theoretically, you also have enough time to visit Puerto Madryn at the beginning of the trip, either before or after Bariloche.
Chilean Patagonia backpacking itinerary (20 days)
This itinerary includes the Carretera Austral. If you have a few extra days, I also recommend visiting the lakes region further north, especially Pucon, Puerto Varas, and Chiloe Island, which I discuss in my travel guide for Chile. If for whatever reason you’re not interested in traveling the Carretera Austral, I suggest visiting the lakes region and, once you arrive in Puerto Montt, either fly to Punta Arenas or take the ferry.
Santiago (1 night)
Day 1:
Spend the day in Santiago and take a bus to Puerto Montt the next day.
Puerto Montt (1 night)
Day 2:
There isn’t much to do in town; the only thing I recommend is to get your ticket as soon as you arrive for the 7:00 bus the next day to Chaiten.
Chaiten (2 nights)
Day 3:
Transfer to Chaiten.
Day 4:
Short trek to the volcano.
Puyuhuapi (2 nights)
Day 5:
Transfer to Puyuhuapi.
Day 6:
Visit the nearby Ventisquero Colgante Glacier and Bosque Encantado.
Villa Cerro Castillo (2 nights)
Day 7:
Transfer to Villa Cerro Castillo via Coyhaique.
Day 8:
Trekking to Cerro Castillo.
Puerto Rio Tranquilo (1 night)
Day 9:
Transfer to Puerto Rio Tranquilo, visit the marble caves in the afternoon.
N.b. At this point you could continue on to Caleta Tortel from where you can take the ferry to Puerto Natales (it leaves once a week and if you can fit the timing in, I recommend it!), make the adventurous crossing to Villa O’Higgins or, as many do – and as I show in this itinerary – cross the border to Los Antiguos in Argentina and, since you’re on the way, stop in El Calafate and potentially even El Chalten.
El Calafate (2 nights)
Day 10:
Transfer to Los Antiguos and overnight bus to El Calafate.
Day 11:
Visit the Perito Moreno Glacier.
Puerto Natales (5 nights)
Day 12:
Transfer from El Calafate to Puerto Natales. Preparation for next day’s trek.
Day 13:
Day one of the W trek in Torres del Paine.
Day 14:
Day two of the W trek in Torres del Paine.
Day 15:
Day three of the W trek in Torres del Paine.
Day 16:
Day four of the W trek in Torres del Paine.
Day 17:
Day five of the W trek in Torres del Paine. Return to Puerto Natales.
Days 18-19:
Transfer to Punta Arenas. Return to Santiago. Flight home.
Theoretically you have one day left, but it’s good to have some margin in case something doesn’t go according to plan.
Sunrise at Torres del Paine.
How to get around Patagonia
Buses in Patagonia
In both Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, buses are by far the most popular and cheapest way to get around. During the high season departures are frequent (less so along the Carretera Austral) but there are also a lot of people so I recommend buying tickets for the next destination as soon as you get somewhere. If you want, you could buy some tickets online on sites like Busbud but especially in Argentina it’s much cheaper to buy the ticket at the terminal, where, if you pay in cash, it’s really common to pay 20-30% less.
For long distances there are different types of buses: “cama” are the most comfortable and have only three rows of seats; they’re extremely spacious and recline up to 160 degrees. Double-decker buses often have cama seats on the first floor and semi-cama seats on the second, which, in addition to being narrower (classic rows of 4), recline less.
Flights in Patagonia
As far as Chilean Patagonia is concerned, along the Carretera Austral the only busy airport is Coyhaique, while further south the airport of choice is Punta Arenas. Flights, if booked in advance, are quite cheap. I recommend checking out LATAM, Sky Airline and JetSMART.
While in Argentine Patagonia the two main ones are Rio Gallegos and Ushuaia, Aerolineas Argentinas, Latam, Andes, Avianca are the companies that operate domestic flights. Flybondi is a new low-cost airline that covers several routes; it’s worth a look.
LADE is a small state-subsidized company that operates flights mainly in Patagonia and offers really competitive prices, often lower than the cost of buses.
Check their website for times and routes, but make reservations at the office or by phone because the website often shows availability when there isn’t any. It’s best to ask a local to call or book for you, as they have priority over foreigners.
Hitchhiking in Patagonia
Hitchhiking is an extremely common and safe practice in this part of the world, both in Argentina along Ruta 40 and in Chile along the Carretera Austral. Competition, however, is really high especially during the high season.
Ferry Caleta Tortel – Puerto Natales.
Backpacking Patagonia: costs
How much does a trip to Patagonia cost? Is it possible to plan a budget trip to Patagonia?
Much depends on the time of year and travel style. If you travel with a tent, camp every chance you get, make your own food, and hitchhike, Patagonia can be a relatively inexpensive place to travel.
But in general the whole region is expensive with a dorm bed that can easily cost even more than 20€ per night during January and February. Even bus travel is quite expensive, especially in Argentina.
That said, traveling on a budget you shouldn’t have any problem with a daily budget of about 30-40€ per day, sleeping in hostels, cooking most of your meals and getting around by bus. If you then, as mentioned above, hitchhike and sleep in a tent whenever possible, you can easily go down to 15€ a day.
Flights from Europe to Buenos Aires and Santiago aren’t too expensive: outside the Christmas period, it isn’t hard to find round-trip tickets for 500-600€, so, roughly speaking, a two-week trip to Patagonia can be done for about 1200-1300€.
To conclude, I personally found Argentine Patagonia more expensive than Chilean Patagonia, but this can vary a lot even over a few months, given the very high inflation the country has had for years now.
N.b.1 In the costs section for Argentina, it’s worth mentioning the absurd fees for withdrawing cash at ATMs: it’s the only country, out of all the ones I’ve visited in Central and South America, without a single bank offering free withdrawals. We’re talking at least 4-5 € per transaction on top of your bank’s fees, and a maximum of about 100€ per transaction. The only solution is to bring cash (euros or dollars), which is easy to exchange, often at a better rate than the official one.
N.b.2 In both countries, by law, all payments for accommodation only – so no food or extra services – made with a foreign credit/debit card (in Chile, also US dollars) aren’t subject to VAT (21% in Argentina, 19% in Chile). Many places pretend not to know, others claim their card reader is “out of order.” If it wasn’t specified at the time of booking with a “cash only” or “solo efectivo,” then stand your ground. On at least two occasions, after a brief discussion, I saved myself the VAT: it’s your right.
Suspension bridge in Torres del Paine.
Backpacking Patagonia: what to bring
To get started, I recommend checking out my list of essential items for your trip. This list also includes camping equipment, which I strongly suggest if you plan on trekking for several days. However, keep in mind that renting equipment is always an option, allowing you to avoid carrying unnecessary weight.
I wouldn’t worry too much about the cold. Personally, even in late April, I didn’t suffer that much wearing a thermal shirt, a sweater, and a sweatshirt layered on top of each other. Essentially, try to travel as light as possible.
To reduce exchange and withdrawal fees, see my guide to the best travel cards.
Backpacking Patagonia: safety
South America certainly doesn’t have a good reputation when it comes to safety, and that’s true of Chile too, but above all Argentina, particularly in the big cities; Patagonia, however, is the exception. In fact, in the entire region crime is virtually nonexistent, the people are extremely welcoming and hospitable, and the chances of being robbed or encountering an unpleasant situation are much lower than in any big Italian city.
As always when traveling, it’s important to use common sense and not take unnecessary risks. I suggest you read my tips on how to travel safely anywhere in the world, but you’ll see that during your trip to Patagonia, safety won’t be an issue at all!
Planning a trip to Patagonia? Take a look at these posts:
Which travel backpack to choose
Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!
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