Australia Travel Guide

Australia, with its vast unspoiled spaces ranging from beautiful beaches to deserts, by way of the rainforest, the famous “outback” and the Great Barrier Reef, is a true paradise for nature lovers, who can see creatures and landscapes found nowhere else in the world here, but also cutting-edge cities.

I lived in Australia for two years, traveling around the country for about six months. I’ve been to all the most popular destinations but also to places that are far less touristy. Here you’ll find a very short video of my life in Australia (in Italian, but you can turn on the subtitles).

Whether you’re planning a backpacking trip, an epic road trip or simply gathering information to organize a more comfortable tour, in this guide you’ll find everything you need.

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Steep Point, West Coast Australia.

When to visit Australia

Given the size of the country, it’s really hard to talk about the climate without making a clear distinction based on the region in question. Also, remember that the seasons are reversed compared to the Northern Hemisphere!

Broadly speaking, if you draw an imaginary line that cuts the country in half from east to west (roughly at the latitude of Brisbane), the lower half, that is, the south, has four distinct seasons, with really hot summers and winters that can be colder than you think, especially in the state of Victoria and Tasmania.

In the upper half, that is, the north of the country, there are basically two seasons: the dry season (April to November), with pleasant temperatures and practically no rainfall, and the rainy season (November to April), which is extremely muggy, with almost daily thunderstorms.

All this applies to the coastal regions, while in the interior – the so-called “outback,” essentially the entire semi-desert area – rain is scarce all year round, and temperatures are extremely high during the austral summer, while in winter they’re mild during the day and close to zero at night.

To sum up, the best time to visit the south of the country is from November to April, around the austral summer (if possible, it’s better to avoid the Christmas period and January, which coincide with the school summer vacations: prices are much higher and the beaches are crowded), while for the north of the country the best time is from April to November, around the austral winter. Finally, for the outback the best time is the shoulder seasons, that is, April-June and October-November.

If you have plenty of time, the ideal would be to visit the south during the summer months and then move north as summer comes to an end, heading into the dry season. Or the other way around: you could start your trip in the north during the dry season and move south at the beginning of summer, thus avoiding the rainy season.

The country’s most iconic and curious animals.

Documents and vaccinations to enter Australia

To visit Australia, you must have an entry visa before arriving in the country. There are different types of visas, but for most people, I think subclass 651 is sufficient. You can easily apply for this visa online, it’s completely free and valid for 12 months from the time it’s granted. During these 12 months, you can enter and leave Australia as many times as you like, but without staying more than 3 months at a time.

If you’re thinking about spending some time living abroad, an interesting alternative for Italian citizens under 31 (the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours) is definitely the working holiday visa. This visa, which costs 440 Australian dollars, lasts twelve months, during which you can also work legally, and if you like, it can be renewed for another 12 months by working for at least 90 days in “remote” areas. For more information, have a look at this page.

As for vaccinations, the only mandatory one is yellow fever, if you enter the country within 6 days of a stay in an at-risk country; beyond that, I personally always recommend the hepatitis A and B vaccines.

Finally, it’s worth remembering that there’s a healthcare agreement between Italy and Australia that guarantees free access to the public system, called “Medicare,” for up to 180 days from entering the country (the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours). However, this is only basic care that, for example, doesn’t even cover the cost of an ambulance, so it’s a good idea to take out private travel insurance.

For up-to-date information on visas and everything else, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).

Hutt Lake.

What to do and see in Australia

Given the size of the country, I’ve decided to divide this section of the guide into seven areas, spanning distinct federal states and territories starting from the state of Victoria in the south and turning counterclockwise. For each region, you’ll find a more detailed map.

In this guide, prices are given in the local currency, called the “Australian dollar,” often abbreviated as “AUD.” The exchange rate is about 1€ = 1.60 AUD. For the current exchange rate, I suggest you look at this page.

Victoria

The small state of Victoria has something for everyone: beautiful beaches along the coast in the southwest, the countryside where they make excellent wine, numerous national parks, the legendary Great Ocean Road, and finally, Melbourne, one of my favorite cities, one of the most livable in the world and the undisputed cultural capital of Australia.

In general, the best time to visit this area runs from September-November to April-May.

Melbourne

Melbourne is a clean, livable and dynamic city. With over 4 million inhabitants, it’s definitely a metropolis, where fortunately all the points of interest are around the downtown area (also known as the “CBD”) or at least not too far from it, and everything is easily reachable thanks to the efficient public transportation system.

Melbourne’s graffiti.

What to do and see in Melbourne

Within the CBD, I recommend visiting the area around Flinders Street Station, where, just a stone’s throw away, you’ll find St. Paul’s Cathedral and Federation Square, which is extremely lively in the evening and often hosts free events, especially on weekends. Finally, you can stroll along the Yarra River on the Southbank side, where, if you like, you could go up to the top of the Melbourne Skydeck (formerly Eureka Skydeck), with a breathtaking view of the city; it’s not exactly cheap, but you can save a couple of dollars by booking online. Slightly further south, there’s the National Gallery of Victoria and the Shrine of Remembrance.

If you like, you could join a free walking tour of the city, which basically covers all the points of interest mentioned so far and many others too. All with a local guide who’s more than happy to give advice and tips, as well as sharing interesting facts about the city’s history.

Outside the center, some interesting neighborhoods are definitely Carlton, which has a very strong Italian influence; Collingwood and Fitzroy, which have a hipster vibe with lots of street art; and finally, St.Kilda and Brighton to the south, where the city’s main beaches are. The former is also the heart of the nightlife: here, along the famous Chapel Street, you’ll find some of the city’s best-known clubs, including the infamous Revolver. Brighton, on the other hand, has a quieter, family-friendly atmosphere, and it’s where you can see the iconic colorful beach huts.

Brighton Beach.

How do you get around Melbourne?

As I said before, getting around the city is really easy thanks to the excellent public transportation system. Within the CBD, trams are completely free, but to use public transportation (trams, trains and buses) outside the CBD, you need a card called Myki, while the fastest way to get to and from the airport is the Skybus (buying your ticket online saves you a few dollars).

Where to sleep in Melbourne?

In general, I recommend sleeping as close to the CBD as possible. For hostels downtown, I recommend Exford Hotel, if you’re looking for something cheap, or Space Hotel for something more luxurious, while the go-to party hostel is the Base in St.Kilda. If you’re looking for a hotel, have a look here.

Phillip Island

The island, about a two-hour drive from Melbourne, is an extremely popular tourist destination, not only because it’s home to the circuit of the same name, which motor racing fans will certainly know, but also because of the colony of penguins and sea lions that live on the island.

To explore the island, you can join one of the many tours departing daily from Melbourne. However, I recommend renting a car, which you’ll also need later to visit the rest of the state of Victoria.

A possible one-day itinerary starting in Melbourne, which includes the famous penguin march (every day at sunset), might be as follows:

Leave Melbourne around 8:00-8:30 so you get to the island around 10:30, and make your first stop at Woolamai Beach. Here, besides enjoying the beach, you could follow the trail that leads to this viewpoint and keep going if you feel like it (I recommend downloading Organic Maps, where the trails are all mapped).

After that, head to nearby Churchill Island. This island was home to the first farm in the state of Victoria, later turned into a sort of living museum where every day between 14:00 and 15:30 there are demonstrations of how sheep are shorn, how sheepdogs work, etc. etc. (admission is charged, but you can buy it as part of a package that also includes the penguin march, more info here). Alternatively, you could simply follow the trail that runs around the island’s perimeter: about 1-2 hours, free.

The sea lion colony.

Every day at 15:00 and 17:00 (depending on the time of year, there may be an extra run at 13:00, schedule), you can also board a boat called the “EcoBoat Adventure Tour,” which will take you to see one of the largest sea lion colonies in Australia.

At this point, you could visit the Koala Conservation Centre (open from 10:00 to 15:00, admission charged) and the Nobbies Antarctic Centre (opening hours), an interactive museum where you’ll learn a ton about Antarctica and its inhabitants.

To end the day, head to the “Penguin Parade” beach at least an hour before the penguins arrive (here you’ll find the times depending on the time of year).

N.B. All the activities I’ve just mentioned can be paid for individually or by buying passes that include several activities together. Especially in the high season, tickets for the penguin parade must be bought in advance! This is the official website! On Klook travel you might find better prices.

March of the penguins.

Wilsons Promontory National Park

The park, located about three hours south of Melbourne, has about 130 km of trails and numerous campsites. The main access point to the park is the village of Tidal River, where the visitor center is located. 

For multi-day hikes, you must register at the visitor center or through the website, where you can find maps, recommended hikes, and other useful information. If you like hiking, I strongly recommend spending a couple of days inside the park. If, on the other hand, you’re interested in a few short day hikes, take a look at this page. Either way, it’s definitely worth a visit!

Little Waterloo Bay

Yarra Valley

The Yarra Valley is a wine region just a stone’s throw from Melbourne. It only takes about an hour’s drive from the city center to get into the heart of this region. Many of the wineries are well-marked and easily accessible from the main road.

I visited the region on a day trip from Melbourne and, although for us Italians days devoted to wine tasting are probably nothing new, it’s definitely a nice way to spend a relaxing day. I don’t remember the name of the winery where we stopped, but if you’re looking for inspiration, you can check out this page.

Great Ocean Road

The famous road that stretches 243 km from Torquay to Allansford is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular in the world. The best way to experience it is by car; ideally, you should have at least two days available. Otherwise, you risk spending the entire day driving. If you don’t have two days, consider joining a tour.

First of all, some honest advice: if you plan to drive the Great Ocean Road in summer (high season) and Melbourne is both your starting and ending point, you’re better off driving the road in reverse: that way, you’ll avoid the crowds at the main points of interest!

The itinerary I recommend is as follows:

Day 1

Take the inland A1 road and head to Port Campbell. Here, continue briefly west, visiting London Bridge, the Bay of Islands Coastal Park and The Grotto, before heading back east and driving the Great Ocean Road in the opposite direction. Visit the following points of interest: The Blow Hole, Loch Ard Gorge, Tom and Eva Lookout, The Razorback, and finally, the Twelve Apostles.

At this point, return to Port Campbell to spend the night. Port Campbell Hostel is a great option, also for private rooms.

The Razorback.

Day 2

You could start the day by stopping again at the Twelve Apostles, where you’re unlikely to find big crowds, and then continue to Gibson Steps for a walk on the beach. From here, the points of interest I recommend are Teddy’s Lookout (just past this viewpoint is the town of Lorne, where you could have lunch), Split Point lighthouse, Point RoadKnight Beach (probably the best beach for swimming along the Great Ocean Road) and finally Bells Beach: this beach is famous for its great surf, whether you want to ride it or just watch!

At this point, all that’s left is to head back to Melbourne.

Obviously, if you plan to continue to Adelaide or Grampians National Park, you’re better off driving the road from east to west, thus following the route just described in reverse!

The Twelve Apostles.

Grampians National Park

This beautiful national park, about 3 hours from Melbourne or 2.5 hours if you’re coming from the end of the Great Ocean Road, is a great place to stop for a couple of days before continuing the journey to South Australia.

Here too, having your own vehicle is practically essential, and I strongly recommend going through the Halls Gap visitor center, where you can get maps, updated information, and anything else you might need. Alternatively, you can consult the official website. 

The park has numerous trails ranging from a few hundred meters to multi-day hikes. If you’re short on time or not much of a hiker, I recommend visiting at least these easily accessible scenic spots and points of interest.

Boroka Lookout, Reed Lookout and The Balconies just nearby, MacKenzie Falls, The Pinnacle Lookout, and the short walk to the Wonderland Grand Canyon. All these places can be visited within a single day, but if you have time, I strongly recommend staying a few days in the park!

The most practical and cheapest option for sleeping is definitely camping: inside the park, there are 13 campgrounds with toilets. You can also camp for free in certain areas or stay at places just outside the park, such as Grampians Eco YHA.

My sister proving braver than me (I’m afraid of heights).

New South Wales

With a population of over 7 million, this is Australia’s most populous state. For years, this state was the center of British colonial power, and its capital, Sydney, is the oldest and largest city in the entire country. Its coastline offers some of Australia’s best beaches; to the south you’ll find the rugged Snowy Mountains, to the west the outback, and finally, to the north, on the border with Queensland, the beginnings of the rainforest.

Also located within New South Wales is the “Australian Capital Territory,” the small territory that’s home to Australia’s capital: Canberra.

Generally, the best time to visit this area is from September-November to April-May. If you plan to visit several national parks, consider buying a pass.

Sydney

I lived in Sydney for more than six months, and as charming and livable a city as it is, I wouldn’t spend more than a couple of days there (the same goes for Melbourne). I strongly believe that the beauty of this country is found away from the cities.

That said, here are some of the things I’d recommend.

What to do and see in Sydney

Here’s my suggested itinerary for two days to spend in Sydney.

Day 1

I’d start the day’s exploration in Darling Harbour, an extremely lively area with lots of restaurants overlooking the small harbor. There are also a few points of interest nearby, such as the Chinese Garden (really nice and only costs $6), the aquarium and a zoo.

From there, I’d continue to Hyde Park, St. Mary’s Cathedral, the Botanical Gardens, and finally, the Opera House. From the Opera House, I’d recommend heading to The Rocks. This neighborhood, at the foot of the Harbour Bridge, is the oldest in the city and still preserves lots of historic buildings. From here, go up onto the famous bridge and walk to the Pylon Lookout, where you get a great view of the bay below and the Opera House.

At this point, you could either head back toward downtown and visit some of the museums/points of interest you’re interested in or take the ferry to Manly that leaves from the nearby Circular Quay station (which I recommend). From the ferry, you first have a beautiful view of the bay, and once you arrive at your destination, you can savor a really different atmosphere than in the “City.” In Manly, you could simply go to the beach or visit the nearby North Head Sanctuary, where there are some relics dating back to World War II, or walk along the trails with several viewpoints to see the city.

The Opera House seen from the Harbour Bridge.

Day 2

A visit to Sydney can’t be considered complete without visiting the famous Bondi Beach. Getting there by bus is really easy, and once you arrive, enjoy some sea and sun before walking the spectacular Bondi-Coogee walk. 

This is a scenic coastal path about 4-5 km long that connects the two beaches; highly recommended! It starts at this point and ends here. Once you get to Coogee, just take another bus to return downtown.

At both beaches there are public BBQs you could use to make your lunch in true Australian style, but be careful, because during the summer, and especially on weekends, the line to cook could be long.

Bondi-Coogee walk.

How do you get around Sydney?

As I said, getting around the city is really easy, but to use public transportation you need a card called Opal. After that, with the website or the app it’s really intuitive to figure out which transportation to take once you’ve entered your starting point and destination. Coming from the airport, the fastest way to get downtown is the train that stops practically inside the airport; this train, however, is relatively expensive, as there’s a $12 airport surcharge. If you want to save a bit and you’re traveling light, consider walking about 2 km to the nearest train station (not inside the airport): from T1 (international flights) Wolli Creek Station, while from T2 and T3 (domestic flights) Mascot Station. From both stations, the train ticket costs exactly $12 less.

Where to sleep in Sydney?

In general, I recommend sleeping as close to downtown as possible, so you can explore the city on foot as much as possible. Sydney Backpackers is a great budget hostel right downtown, while if you’re looking for something really cool, check out Wake Up! Sydney Central, which also has nice private rooms at competitive prices. For hotels, take a look here.

Blue Mountains 

This mountain range, located within the national park of the same name, became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000. The national park is easily accessible from Sydney, as there are frequent train connections to the main towns of the region.

You could easily spend several days inside the park, but if you don’t have much time, you can visit some of the main attractions on a day trip right from Sydney.

I recommend taking the train from Sydney Central to the town of Katoomba; the train runs about every hour, costs $6 and takes 2 hours to get there (check the schedules), and admission to the park is free.

Once you arrive in Katoomba, walk to Echo Point, where you’ll have incredible views of the Jamison Valley below and the rock formation called “The Three Sisters.” You can also visit the visitor center to collect maps and information.

From here, I strongly recommend taking the trail called “The Giant Stairway,” which starts right at Echo Point beside the Three Sisters and descends to the valley floor before climbing back up and returning to Echo Point. The trail is well-marked and well-trodden, so you certainly won’t have any problems; it’s about 6 km in total, with one waterfall and spectacular view after another, and if you like, you can also ride back up from the valley floor on a short railway. See the route in broad strokes here.    

If you have more days available, consider spending the night here and visiting the other towns in the region that offer several hiking opportunities. Some nearby points of interest are Wentworth Falls, a waterfall on the edge of the town of the same name; Gordon Falls, which you could visit on a day trip from Katoomba; and Govett’s Leap, a scenic spot from where several trails start in the nearby town of Blackheath.

Blue Mountains.

Jervis Bay

This huge bay, just under three hours south of Sydney, is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in New South Wales. This is why it can be a relatively crowded area during summer vacations. In any case, the entire region, with the national park of the same name and the adjacent Booderee National Park, is definitely worth a visit. 

The best beach by far is probably Hyams Beach: here the sand is so white that in broad daylight it could literally blind you, so be sure not to forget your sunglasses! If you have the chance, give yourself a couple of days to visit some of the bay’s many other beaches too.

Hyams Beach.

Canberra

Although Canberra technically isn’t part of New South Wales, I decided to include it in this section, since the Australian Capital Territory, of which Canberra is the capital, is to all intents and purposes inside NSW, and on top of that, Canberra is only a 3-hour drive from Sydney.

Unfortunately, despite having traveled the length and breadth of Australia, I’ve never had the pleasure of visiting its capital, so I’ll point you to a post where I’m sure you’ll find some great ideas for visiting the city: What to do in Canberra.

Parliament House.

Snowy Mountains

This region, located in the far south of New South Wales on the border with Victoria, is home to the highest peaks in the country, so much so that in the winter months a few ski resorts are open (the only ones in Australia!).

You probably didn’t come to Australia to ski, and you’re unlikely to be around here during the Australian winter, but if you get the chance, it’s worth exploring the area. Kosciuszko National Park is named after the mountain of the same name, the highest peak in mainland Australia at 2228 meters.

For an overview of the activities you can do in the region, I recommend having a look at this site, while for some of the most popular treks, have a look at this article. The main area at the foot of the mountain to use as a base for accommodation is Thredbo.

Mount Kosciuszko.

Byron Bay

The stretch of coast from Sydney to the Queensland border is full of possible stops where you can spend a few days relaxing on the beach, but the vast majority of people (me included) head straight for Byron Bay, which is about 8-9 hours away by car, so it’s totally doable in a day.

If you’re looking for a few stops along the way, I recommend checking out the Hunter Valley, NSW’s main wine region, and Coffs Harbour, a really popular beach destination, especially with families.

That said, Byron Bay is famous for its great surf and relaxed atmosphere. In the right season, you can also watch the whale migration (June-October), and more generally, it’s definitely a great place to spend a couple of days during your trip along the east coast.

Besides relaxing on the beach and maybe trying a few surf lessons, I recommend the walk from the town center to the Byron Bay lighthouse: the view is breathtaking, and with a bit of luck you might spot whales in the distance. Plus, you’ll be able to say you’ve visited the easternmost point of mainland Australia, which is right here.

A popular excursion is to the small town of Nimbin, about an hour’s drive inland. In the ’70s, a festival was held right here, and since then many of its participants decided to stay and live there, giving it an authentic hippie style!

Today the town is the center of an alternative, eco-friendly and decidedly pro-cannabis lifestyle, and along the main street you’ll find lots of ethnic shops.

To wrap up, if you have your own vehicle, you could visit nearby Mount Warning National Park: admission to the park is free, and there’s a trail about 9 km long that leads to the summit of the mountain of the same name. Other points of interest around Byron Bay are Minyon Falls and Protester Falls.

Where to sleep in Byron Bay?

For hostels, I strongly recommend Arts Factory Lodge, while for hotels, take a look here.

The beach at Byron Bay.

Queensland  

With nearly 7,000 km of coastline, 2,000 islands, and a tropical climate, lovers of sea and sun will certainly have no trouble finding something to do. Add to that the Great Barrier Reef, one of the oldest forests in the world, and the infamous outback to the west, and you’ve got one of the most visited regions in Australia.

In general, the best time to visit this region is from April to November, that is, during the dry season.

Brisbane

Let’s start with the region’s capital, which, with a population of about 2 million, is the third largest city in the country, after Sydney and Melbourne. Unlike the other two cities, where I lived for several months, I was only in Brisbane for a week, at the end of a long road trip, and during my stay I had to tie up a couple of loose ends, so I didn’t have much time to explore the city. In any case, here’s what I suggest doing.

What to do and see in Brisbane

Here’s my suggested itinerary for two days to spend in Brisbane.

Day 1

Start your exploration in the CBD: visit Brisbane City Hall and the Museum of Brisbane (it’s free), and after that, continue to the nearby Botanic Gardens.

From here, cross the Goodwill Bridge footbridge, which takes you to the South Bank neighborhood, where many of the city’s museums are concentrated: the Gallery of Modern Art and the Queensland Museum, just to name a few. The whole area, which stretches south toward South Bank Parklands, where among many other things there are public swimming pools, is really nice.

If you want a little action in the evening, move to the Fortitude Valley neighborhood, where you’ll find numerous bars and restaurants.

Day 2

Spend the second day exploring the New Farm district. If you happen to be in Brisbane on a Saturday morning, don’t miss the local market inside the nearby park.

From here, hop on the boat (the boat system along the river is part of public transportation; you can check the schedules here) heading to West End, which is considered the city’s alternative neighborhood. Especially along the main streets, Boundary Street and Vulture Street, it’s common to see street performers; the atmosphere is really pleasant, and the weekly market is held along the first of the two on Fridays and Saturdays.

To end the day you could climb to the top of Mount Coot – Tha from where you get the best views of the city; the bus to take is number 471.

Brisbane seen from the top of Mount Coot – Tha.

How do you get around Brisbane?

As in all the major Australian cities, the public transportation system is really efficient and at times even free, as with the red ferry that runs along the river in the city center. To use paid public transportation, however, you need to buy a rechargeable card called GoCard. If you’re arriving from the airport, the fastest way is the Airtrain, which however costs $18.50 one way. If you want to save $14, then get on the free T-Bus to Skygate (Airport Village) and wait for the 590 bus, ride it two stops to Toombul Shopping Centre and then take the train into the city. 

Where to sleep in Brisbane?

Summer House Backpackers is a great budget hostel a stone’s throw from downtown, with some interesting activities organized every day. On the other hand, if you’re looking for something inexpensive but more hotel-style with a wide selection of private rooms, check out Bowen Terrace Accommodation.

Gold Coast and Surfers Paradise

Gold Coast is a large city south of Brisbane with several districts, the most famous being Surfers Paradise. The whole area is extremely touristy, popular with Australians and foreign travelers alike. Personally, I spent only one night in Surfers Paradise to break up the trip between Brisbane and Byron Bay.

I wouldn’t advise against it, and in some respects it can be a really striking destination: the huge buildings that practically touch the ocean are undoubtedly fascinating, but at the same time, in my opinion, there’s nothing more to it, just a big modern city a stone’s throw from a beach that’s not exactly deserted. However, if you have time on your hands and you’re looking for a stop along the way to spend a couple of nights, then it may be a destination worth considering; that said, I think the beauty of Australia lies elsewhere.

Surfers Paradise beach.

Noosa

Though probably just as touristy, Noosa is definitely a stop I’d recommend along the East Coast. The atmosphere is much more relaxed than in Surfers Paradise.

In addition to spending a few relaxing days at the beach, I strongly recommend visiting the national park of the same name, which is easily accessible from town. Admission is free, and there are several well-maintained trails that you can hike (trail map). I especially recommend the coastal walk (trail number 4 in blue).

Another nice activity is to visit the Noosa Everglades, which, along with the more famous Everglades in Florida, are the only two regions in the world with such an ecosystem. Joining a tour from Noosa is really easy, but if you want to save some money and you have your own vehicle, I recommend driving to Boreen Point, where numerous stores are ready to rent kayaks and provide maps to explore the area on your own.

Where to sleep in Noosa?

Noosa Flashpackers is a great hostel literally a stone’s throw from the national park. For hotels, take a look here.

Coastal walk.

Rainbow Beach and K’gari (Fraser Island)

Rainbow Beach is merely the base for exploring nearby K’gari (Fraser Island): this island, which measures 120 km in length and 30 km in width at its widest point, is completely composed of sand, making it the largest sand island in the world and the only place where rainforest grows right on the sand.

The island is nothing short of extraordinary, with many attractions ranging from numerous freshwater lakes, including the famous Lake McKenzie, natural swimming pools, and a shipwreck that has become iconic. It’s also the last place in the world where you can see purebred dingoes that colonized the Australian continent more than 3,500 years ago; in the rest of the country, the breed has been “contaminated” by other canines.

If you have rented or perhaps bought a 4×4 for your trip to Australia, you can visit the island on your own as I did. Otherwise, you need to join a tour, which any hostel or agency can organize; if you want to book online, I suggest you look at bookme.

Either way, if possible, try to spend at least two nights on the island; it’s truly an extraordinary place!

Lake McKenzie.

Some info for a DIY trip to K’gari (Fraser Island)

If you plan to drive your 4×4 vehicle on the island, getting your vehicle permit and booking campsites before boarding the ferry is mandatory. My fellow travelers and I did this the same day at the tourist office before boarding, and many of the equipped campsites were full. So, if this is what you’re looking for, book online in advance (permit and campsites).

Here, you’ll find a map of the island with campsites, roads, and attractions. This is the tourist office where we booked campsites and permits, but there are others in the area too. Whatever your itinerary on the island, don’t miss Lake McKenzie, Eli Creek, the Maheno Wreck, and the Champagne pools under any circumstances! Especially if you have no experience driving in the sand, drive with extreme caution and take enough food and water with you. You can find them on the island, but they’re extremely expensive!

Once you return to Rainbow Beach, I strongly recommend visiting this spot. There are dunes overlooking the sea where people go sandboarding, but most importantly, it’s an amazing place to watch the sunset!

The spot I just mentioned in the guide.

Agnes Water / 1770

For many, this is the next stop after Rainbow Beach. It’s a small coastal town with a relaxed atmosphere, often chosen to break up the journey to or from Airlie Beach, the gateway to the famous Whitsunday Islands.

Honestly, I didn’t think much of it, but the drive from Rainbow Beach to Airlie Beach is a really long haul, and if you have a day or two to spare, it’s definitely worth stopping and enjoying some relaxing time on the beach, maybe taking a few surf lessons.

At this point, there are some short trails that lead to some pretty good viewpoints, a nice way to kill a bit of time. If you like, nearby there’s also Eurimbula National Park, which I haven’t personally visited, though, so I don’t know if it’s worth it.

Another stop along the way you might consider before heading to Airlie Beach is the town of Rockhampton; I haven’t been there, but it’s said to be a sort of beef capital, with the pubs and restaurants to match. It’s also home to the Dreamtime Cultural Centre, one of Australia’s best cultural centers on Aboriginal culture.

Where to sleep in 1770?

Cool Bananas is a great budget hostel a stone’s throw from the beach.

Agnes Water beach.

Airlie Beach and Whitsundays Islands

Airlie Beach is a port town that serves as the gateway to the beautiful Whitsunday Islands. The town itself isn’t much to write home about, and the beaches around it aren’t particularly picturesque and are often infested with jellyfish. If you have a free half-day before or after your Whitsundays tour, consider the man-made lagoon instead.

That said, you absolutely must join an island tour; they typically last three days and two nights, but some people opt for longer tours or even day trips to Whitehaven Beach. 

I did the three-day tour, and it was incredible. The visit to Whitehaven Beach, snorkeling, and whale watching, all topped off by the fantastic company during my three-day sailing, is something I’ll never forget and would recommend to anyone visiting this beautiful country.

Much like K’gari (Fraser Island), any agency or hostel can organize an island tour. There are different formats, from party boats (which I don’t recommend) to tours more focused on exploring the islands: the options are really endless. Personally, I did the tour with Spank me, and it seemed like a good compromise between quality and price, but as I said, there are literally dozens of options, so the choice is yours.

Whitehaven beach.

Where to sleep in Airlie Beach?

Technically, if you plan your trip well, there’s no need to stay in Airlie Beach. But if you want to spend the night before or after the tour, Airlie Beach Magnums isn’t bad at all.

Townsville / Magnetic Island

The city of Townsville is the gateway to nearby Magnetic Island, a bit like Airlie Beach for the Whitsunday Islands. The city itself isn’t particularly interesting, and many people simply pass through to catch the ferry to the island, but if you have an extra day or just half a day, you could visit the Museum of Tropical Queensland, the maritime museum, and walk along the Riverway, with public pools, bars, and a small art gallery. Finally, you could walk or drive up to the top of Castle Hill, which has excellent views of the town and Magnetic Island. 

If you wanted to, you could arrange diving/snorkeling trips to the reef from Townsville, but since Cairns is closer to the reef, all activities related to the Great Barrier Reef are generally cheaper from there.

Back to Magnetic Island: the island is really nice, and it’s definitely worth spending at least a couple of days there. More than half of the island is part of the national park, and there are numerous trails, beaches and small bays that can easily keep you busy for days.

In particular, I recommend the Forts Walk: this short walk, 1-2 hours at most, takes you to the ruins of a fort built during World War II, and from here you get great views of the whole island. On the way, you might spot some koalas in the trees! Anyway, there are other trails, all fairly short, that you could do; you can find a map here.

Finally, the snorkeling in Geoffrey Bay isn’t bad at all. Among the beaches, I recommend checking out Radical Bay and Balding Bay: the former is at the end of a dirt road while the latter is only accessible on foot, both of which are less crowded than the island’s main beaches.

Radical Bay.

How do you get to Magnetic Island?

The island is accessible only by ferry from nearby Townsville, which is only 8 km away. Two companies cover the route, and both depart from the Nelly Bay Ferry Terminal. Fantasea offers transportation for pedestrians and vehicles, while Sealink is for pedestrians only; both companies have nearly ten daily departures.

Where to sleep on Magnetic Island? 

I slept at the Base on the waterfront; it’s really nice and has a pretty party atmosphere. If you’re looking for something more comfortable, check out these chalets.

Cairns

From Townsville/Magnetic Island, many people continue directly to Cairns; it’s only a 4-5 hour drive, in fact. If, on the other hand, you’re looking for an intermediate stop to break up the trip even further, then Mission Beach might be just right for you.

It’s a small coastal town made up of four small villages along a 14km beach, and all together they don’t even reach 4000 inhabitants! A perfect place to relax and spend a few days at the beach. If, on the other hand, you’re short on time, I strongly recommend heading straight to Cairns, perhaps taking a short detour inland to visit Wallaman Falls, a truly impressive waterfall, the second highest in the entire country, and if you’re willing to take an even longer detour, you could also visit Blencoe Falls, a little further north, the highest waterfall in all of Australia.

Josephine Falls isn’t bad at all either, and it’s much more accessible from the main road leading to Cairns.

Wallaman falls.

What to do and see in Cairns

Once you arrive in Cairns, the only thing I recommend doing in town, in case you have half a day or so to kill, is to pop over to the Cairns Esplanade: it’s a really nice park with a public pool attached. In the evening, take a walk along the waterfront of the same name, full of bars, restaurants, and stores.

That said, spend as much time as possible exploring what surrounds Cairns, probably starting with the Great Barrier Reef.

The Great Barrier Reef

It’s the largest living organism in the world and the only one visible from space. Over 2000 km long, it’s home to thousands of animal species. A true wonder.

Diving and snorkeling trips to the reef run daily, weather permitting, and are sold by literally anyone in town. Since the competition is so fierce, you can expect good service from virtually every company, and personally, I’d look for some last-minute deals online on bookme or, better yet, simply by walking around town. In any case, expect to pay at least a hundred dollars for a day of snorkeling and about twice that for two dives.

The Great Barrier Reef.

Atherton Tablelands

This plateau, located just outside Cairns, is a really nice area full of waterfalls and unusual landscapes that’s definitely worth exploring. Below, I’ve listed a possible itinerary to follow, with the main points of interest.

Start the day by heading to Barron Falls. This 260-meter-high waterfall is extremely spectacular during the rainy season, but even during the dry season it certainly holds its own and is definitely worth a visit. At the site, there are several viewpoints connected by short trails.

Barron Falls during the rainy season.

You can reach nearby Kuranda aboard the Skyrail, a tourist attraction made up of a circuit you travel half by train and half by cable car, giving you unique perspectives on the rainforest and on Barron Falls too. I haven’t done it personally, but here you’ll find all the information you need.

From Kuranda, continue to Mareeba, where you might like to visit the local Heritage Museum (free) before heading to Atherton; stop at Emerald Creek Falls.

The small town of Atherton doesn’t have much in the way of attractions, except for the nearby mountain bike park, which has a number of excellent trails, and there are several stores in town where you can rent a bike.

From Atherton, continue to Yungaburra and spend the night at On the Wallaby, a beautiful hostel a stone’s throw from the viewing platform where, early in the morning (preferably at dawn), you can see platypuses!

Continue the day to the giant fig tree and then head south to Mount Hypipamee National Park, where there’s a waterfall and a huge crater, and finish with a visit to the iconic Milla Milla Falls. If you still haven’t had enough, visit nearby Zillie Falls before heading back toward Cairns following the Gillies Range Road. With a bit of luck, during these two days you might spot a cassowary, a prehistoric bird (the third largest in the world) that lives exclusively in these parts of northeastern Australia and in Papua New Guinea.

N.b. Following this itinerary with your own vehicle is ideal, but if you prefer, you can join a tour (the Atherton Tablelands tours offered in Cairns follow a similar itinerary).

Milla Milla falls.

Where to sleep in Cairns?

I spent my stay in Cairns at the Calypso, which, all things considered, I’d recommend. If you’re looking for a party hostel, check out Gilligan’s; I’m sure it won’t disappoint you. If, on the other hand, you’re looking for a more comfortable option, Globetrotters International seems like a great option. 

Daintree forest 

Daintree Forest, located about 3 hours north of Cairns, is one of the oldest forests in the world and can be visited in a day, but I think it’s worth spending at least a couple of days there, doing the classic road trip from Cairns to Cape Tribulation and following this itinerary.

After driving north along the coastal road (really scenic in places), stop at Mossman Gorge, a fantastic place to swim in crystal-clear water surrounded by rainforest. There are some short trails, viewpoints, and a suspension bridge; you can easily spend a couple of hours there.

From here, continue north, cross the Daintree River by ferry (frequent crossings from 6 in the morning until midnight), and stop at the Marrdja Walk, a boardwalk trail of about 40 minutes through the forest, and spend the night at Noah Beach Campground.

Taken from the car window!

The next day, do the Dubuji walk before going to see the beautiful Cape Tribulation Beach and nearby Myall Beach. If you feel ready for a not exactly easy hike, then at this spot you’ll find the start of the steep trail that leads to the top of Mount Sorrow. Head back toward Cairns.

N.b. Unfortunately, swimming isn’t recommended on many of the beaches in this region due to crocodiles and jellyfish. Read the signs and ask the locals before doing anything silly!

Finally, if you’re driving a SERIOUS 4×4 and have plenty of time on your hands, you could reach Cape York at the end of one of Australia’s best 4×4 tracks (Old Telegraph Track) in one of the country’s wildest regions, a real adventure!

Cape Tribulation.

Lawn Hill National Park

To conclude this section of the guide dedicated to Queensland, I’d like to mention this national park located on the border with the Northern Territory. Although little known, it’s one of my favorite national parks. Obviously, I absolutely wouldn’t recommend setting off from Cairns specifically to visit the park, but if you plan to continue your trip in Australia overland toward Darwin, then consider it as a stop along the way.

Inside the park there are lots of excellent trails, but above all, you can rent kayaks to explore the beautiful gorge on your own and maybe see a freshwater crocodile or two!

This is the spot where the visitor center and campground are located, at the end of a dirt road about 80 km long. It’s not in bad condition, but it’s definitely advisable to have a vehicle with good ground clearance. You can find excellent information about the park here.

Lawn Hill National Park.

Northern Territory

Known as the “true outback,” this territory boasts what are undoubtedly true natural icons of Australia. Within the territory, there are as many as 52 national parks and nature reserves, and it’s also considered the center of Aboriginal culture; in fact, the country’s largest population and collection of Aboriginal art are located here.

Generally, the best time to visit this region is from April to November, during the dry season. However, the rainy season undoubtedly has its charm too, with the waterfalls in full flow and lush vegetation, which makes March-April the ideal period, as rain is infrequent but the benefits I just mentioned are still there.

Darwin

Let’s start with the capital, Darwin. I lived here for four months, and in itself, it’s easily one of the least interesting cities in the country, especially during the rainy season when, though not exactly in the same way, the city empties out like an Italian beach resort in winter.

There are, however, three things I recommend doing in the city: visit the botanical garden, drop by the Darwin Waterfront, where there’s a nice park for lounging in the sun with access to a safe beach and pool, and finally stroll through the sunset market, open only during the dry season, from April to October, on Thursday and Sunday evenings. I highly recommend it: you’ll find lots of food, artists, and above all spectacular sunsets from the nearby beach!

Getting around Darwin is really easy; the city center is compact, and you can walk everywhere.

Finally, on a day trip from Darwin, you could visit the nearby Berry Springs, about a 45-minute drive away: they’re really nice natural pools nestled in the jungle; avoid weekends if possible. Lastly, an extremely popular tour offered in Darwin is the jumping crocodiles one.

Where to sleep in Darwin?

Melaleuca is considered by many to be the best hostel in the city, and indeed, it isn’t bad at all. If, however, you’re looking for something comfortable, have a look at these apartments.

Kakadu National Park

Obviously, I recommend visiting the park independently by renting a car; much of the park is accessible by regular vehicles, although a 4×4 would be ideal both for convenience and for reaching some less accessible areas. 

Visitors must buy their admission tickets online or at one of the visitor centers within the park.

Here’s a possible 4-day itinerary inside the park, starting from Darwin and entering from the north. The second day varies depending on the type of vehicle you have. 

Day 1 

The first stop within the park is along the main road, Mamukala Wetlands. Here, a short trail leads to an observation platform over a marshy area, from which it’s often possible to see numerous species of birds and crocodiles.

Continue to Cahill Crossing, where again you’ll find an observation platform with a chance to spot crocodiles. Head to this spot not far from a series of short trails that allow you to admire examples of rock art. Finally, wrap up the route by climbing to Nadab Lookout, one of the best vantage points in the park, which is particularly spectacular at sunset. 

You could spend the night at the Merl Camping Ground, but from my own experience and that of many others, it’s infested with mosquitoes, so consider driving on to Jabiru, where you can then look into several options.

Jim Jim Falls (dried up).

Day 2

To keep the 4-day itinerary, you can choose between two options today:

1)

If you drive a 4×4, then I strongly recommend taking the track to Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls. Along the track, you have to ford a river. We made it in a Ford Explorer without a snorkel, but depending on how high the river is, you might need one, and in some cases (especially during the rainy season) the track is even closed. Either way, a 4×4 is absolutely necessary.

If you choose this option, stop at the Garnamarr Campground and quickly set up your tent to secure a spot. Then, continue to Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls before returning to the campground and spending the night. Both falls are at the end of a short trail from the two parking lots. 

The 4×4 track and the two waterfalls are really worth it, and I couldn’t recommend them enough, but if, for whatever reason, you’re not interested, or you simply don’t drive a 4×4, then you could do the following.

2)

Stop at Burrungkuy (Nourlangie), where you’ll find more rock art along some short trails and a viewpoint not far away. Then continue to Bubba Walk and climb to Mirrai Lookout.

From here, you could go straight to Maguk Campground to spend the night (or some other campground in this direction), or stop at the Warradjan Cultural Centre, where there’s a small gallery focusing on Aboriginal history in the region.

Maguk Waterfalls.

Day 3

Spend the night at Maguk Campground and enjoy the rest of the day at Maguk Waterfalls. If you did the 4×4 track, you should have about half a day; if instead you arrived the night before, all the better. The place is worth it, and above all, remember to climb up to the top of the waterfall, where there’s a series of really beautiful natural pools.

Day 4

Today is the day for Gunlom Waterfall. Try to leave early in the morning from Maguk so that you can spend at least half a day at the waterfall before leaving the park. If you have time, you might want to spend another night in the park, sleeping at the campground near the waterfall.

Infinity pool at Gunlom Falls.

Litchfield National Park

Much as with Kakadu National Park, I recommend visiting the park independently by renting a car. Much of the park is accessible by regular vehicles, although a 4×4 would be ideal both for convenience and to reach some less accessible areas.

Here’s my 3-day itinerary in the park for those who drive a 4×4. Here you’ll find a map.

Day 1

From the park’s east entrance, begin your visit at the Magnetic Termite Mounds, where a short trail allows you to get a closer look at giant termite nests. Then, continue to The Lost City, where there are nothing short of incredible rock formations (4×4 track). 

From here, head back in the direction of Buley Rockhole and take a refreshing dip in these natural pools before continuing to the Florence Falls campground, where you’ll spend the night (there are two, one for regular vehicles and the other accessible only by 4×4); leave your vehicle here and walk down to Florence Falls.

Florence Falls.

Day 2

Start the day by going to the Tolmer Falls viewpoint (there’s a short loop you can walk if you like). Then, take the 4×4 track to Tjaynera Falls and Surprise Creek Falls. Afterward, head back along the same track and spend the night at the Wangi Falls campground. 

Day 3

Spend the morning at Wangi Falls, perhaps taking a short hike from where the falls are located and going through the Monsoon forest before leaving the park.

Tjaynera Falls.

Nitmiluk (Katherine) National Park 

There are two easily visited sections:

Edith Falls

The first, less well-known one is the one I call “Edith Falls”; if you’re coming from the north, it’s located before the town of Katherine. Spend the night at Leilyn campground (well-equipped and spacious), and you’ll see that Edith Falls is literally a stone’s throw away. If you arrive in the morning, you could do it right away, but otherwise I recommend waiting until the next day to complete the circuit you see on this map, especially if you decide to do the detour to Sweetwater Pool as well. Either way, do at least the main circuit leading to the Upper Pool; it’s worth it!

Edith Falls, Upper Pool.

Katherine Gorge

The other, better-known section of the park is the one I call “Katherine Gorge.” The main attraction is the gorge where the Katherine River flows. Some trails run parallel to the gorge, as you can see on this map, but the recommended way to visit it is by renting a kayak through the visitor center. However, access is only given to a limited number of kayaks with scheduled departures, and since this activity is extremely popular, the chances of finding a spot by showing up on the day during the dry season are practically zero. I showed up on two separate occasions, a few weeks apart, and was told everything was sold out for the next 3-4 days, so if you have fixed dates and really want to do this, book in advance. There’s also a campground attached to the visitor center.

Katherine Gorge.

Elsey National Park (Mataranka)

This place is simply not to be missed! It’s a system of crystal-clear hot springs nestled in the forest. Here too, there are two easily accessible sections; if you only have time for one, I recommend the first!

Sleep at the Bitter Springs Campground (they also have bungalows) and spend at least a day lazing in a little river not far away, generated by the springs; the temperature of the crystal-clear water and the forest around it make it an exceptional place! 

If you have time, the next day you could visit the other more popular section of the park; here you’re basically in the same setting, only the pools have been cemented over, so some of the charm is lost and the place is more crowded. Here too, there’s a campground a short distance from the pools. From here, if you like, you could walk to Mataranka Falls; the walk along the river is pleasant, but the falls certainly aren’t impressive.

Bitter Springs.

Devils Marbles

These curious rock formations are literally right along the Stuart Highway, which makes them an almost obligatory stop between Alice Springs and the long drive that awaits you to reach Tennant Creek, the pit stop for breaking up the journey north or south.

The area is relatively confined, and an hour or so should be more than enough time to explore it.

Devils Marbles.

Alice Springs 

This not particularly charming town, however, is the crossroads for many attractions in the area and an ideal place to stop for supplies before continuing the journey south or north. 

That said, if you have a few hours to spend in the city, you could climb Anzac Hill from where you have excellent views of the city and the MacDonnell mountain range in the background, and perhaps visit the botanical garden where there are often wallabies roaming around.

Where to sleep in Alice Springs?

Alice’s Secret is a really nice, cheap hostel surrounded by greenery, with some really quirky rooms. Diplomat Motel, on the other hand, seems like a great, not-too-expensive option for those looking for something hotel-style.

West MacDonnell National Park

This national park, located just outside Alice Springs, is often snubbed in favor of Ayers Rock and Kings Canyon. Still, if you have a few days to devote to it, I strongly recommend it.

Below is my two-day itinerary inside the park.

Day 1

Starting in Alice Springs, Simpson Gap is the first stop of the day; walk the short trail to the gorge and maybe even swim before continuing to Standley Chasm.

Standley Chasm is a really spectacular canyon as well as one of the park’s main attractions – admission costs 12 dollars per person to walk along the short trail through the canyon. Ideally, you’d visit the canyon during the middle hours of the day, when the sunlight lights up its walls spectacularly.

From here, continue first to Ellery Creek, Serpentine Gorge, Ochre Pits, and then to Ormiston Gorge. Here, there’s a short trail to the gorge where you can swim; this is also the best-equipped area in the park, and there’s a good campground where you could spend the night. Alternatively, spend the night in nearby Glen Helen, where, if you prefer, there’s also a hotel.

Standley Chasm.

Day 2

Visit Glen Helen Gorge before heading to Redbank Gorge; here there’s a slightly longer walk to do, but still nothing excessive.

At this point, if you drive a high-clearance 4×4, I strongly recommend visiting Palm Valley, which is located within the nearby Finke Gorge National Park, 3-4 hours from Redbank Gorge. Here, you can camp and explore this beautiful area by following some trails (Arankaia Walk is the trail to the famous valley). For 4×4 track conditions and other info, check the park’s official website.

If you don’t have a 4×4 vehicle or just don’t feel up to it, you can always join an organized tour from Alice Springs, or continue your journey to Watarrka National Park!

Watarrka National Park (Kings Canyon)

This park is the ideal stop between West MacDonnell National Park and Ayers Rock (Uluru); spend the night at Kings Canyon Resort, which offers accommodation of every kind, from campsites to hotel rooms, and the facilities aren’t bad at all.

From the resort to the spot where the trails start it’s only 10 km. There are only 4 trails inside the park; the one I recommend is the Rim Walk, a 7 km circuit that runs along the top of Kings Canyon and is really breathtaking. Try to start early in the morning to avoid the hottest hours of the day!

Kings Canyon.

Ayers Rock (Uluru) and Kata Tjuta National Park

For many, this is an essential destination on a trip to Australia; generally speaking, one day is enough to visit the park. The entrance ticket costs $25 and is valid for three days.

With 24 hours available, here’s what I recommend doing.

Start the day admiring the sunrise at Ayers Rock; this is considered the best spot. After that, join the guided walk led by one of the park rangers at the base of the monolith. The walk, which lasts 1-2 hours, is really interesting, and you’re given lots of information about Aboriginal culture and the history of the area; it’s included in your park entrance ticket.

The walk starts every day from the “Mala Car Park” at 8:00 from October to April and at 10:00 from May to September. After that, you could complete one of the other trails. Climbing to the top has no longer been possible since 26 October 2019: the monolith is sacred to the Aboriginal people, and climbing it has always been considered a sacrilege by them.

Sunset at Ayers Rock.

Once you’ve finished your visit to Ayers Rock, head for Kata Tjuta, where I strongly recommend doing the so-called “Valley of the Winds Walk,” a beautiful 7.4km walk through numerous gorges with exceptional views.

Before heading back to Ayers Rock for sunset, make a stop at this beautiful viewpoint along the main road. It offers beautiful views of both Kata Tjuta and Ayers Rock. Highly recommended!

End the day with sunset at Ayers Rock; this is the main viewpoint. 

N.b. If, for whatever reason, you only want to visit Uluru in the shortest possible time, without visiting the nearby national parks, keep in mind that you could fly directly to Uluru (Yulara), where the main hotels are located, and they sometimes provide private shuttles. Or you could use the services offered by this company to reach the park by bus. Generally speaking, Jetstar is the cheapest airline to provide this air route from major Australian cities.

Kata Tjuta.

Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.

Western Australia

Western Australia is the largest state in all of Australia. It covers an area larger than Western Europe, with a population of only two and a half million, more than two million of whom live in the capital city of Perth, the most isolated city of this size in the world!

The main attraction of this state lies in the boundless expanses of “nothingness,” where unspoiled nature gives rise to surreal landscapes within what is, for all intents and purposes, the region of Australia that most fascinated me. 

The best time to visit this region varies enormously, as Western Australia is crossed by practically all of the country’s climate zones. For the classic itinerary along the coast from Perth to Broome, the best times to have good weather both in the south and in the north are September-October and April-May (March to July is whale shark season in Exmouth), but the middle months of winter (June-August) are more than fine too. If, on the other hand, you’re planning to visit the south (Margaret River, Albany, and Esperance), the summer months are the best time.

N.b. If you plan to visit quite a few national parks, it’s definitely worth getting the Western Australia pass, which you’ll find on this page.

Perth

Perth may not have the charm of Melbourne and Sydney, but during my week there, it made a great impression on me. An extremely livable, clean city, full of greenery and with really beautiful beaches a stone’s throw from downtown, which enjoys more sunny days than any other Australian capital!

What to do and see in Perth

Unless you have a lot of time available, I recommend spending two days there at most.

Day 1

Start your first day by visiting the Perth Cultural Centre, where you’ll find the Art Gallery of Western Australia (free) and many other museums, while not far away are government buildings such as Government House and the Supreme Court.

Then, move on to Kings Park, located in the heart of Perth and one of the world’s largest city parks (larger than Central Park in New York). End the day by exploring the prison and maritime museum and strolling through Fremantle, considered the best neighborhood in the city; don’t miss the local market on Fridays and Saturdays.

Fremantle prison.

Day 2

Dedicate this day to exploring Rottnest Island, an island located just 18 km from Perth. It’s a true paradise for nature lovers, who can enjoy its 63 beautiful beaches and the company of the famous quokkas that live only here, all without any cars to spoil the peace and quiet of the island.

Three companies offer transportation to and from the island: RottnestExpress, Sealink, and Rottnest Fast Ferries. I recommend checking all 3, as there are often seasonal offers or certain days of the week with substantial discounts; combos are also often offered, for example ticket+bike rental, at great prices. Take a look!

Once you’re on the island, as you may have guessed, the best way to get around is by bike, but if you prefer, you could rely on the bus, which costs $20 and can be used as many times as you wish. The complete tour of the island is about 25 km, which is great for a full day. The whole island is really beautiful, but I especially recommend the pink lakes, Little Parakeet Bay, and Parker Point, which also has a snorkel trail.

Rottnest Island.

How to get around Perth?

The good news is that to get around the main tourist areas (Perth CBD and Fremantle) there are free buses called CAT. To move between the various neighborhoods, though, you have to pay; here you can find all the different options. The most convenient and cheapest way to get from the airport to downtown Perth is the train (Airport Line). If you arrive at terminals T1 or T2, you can walk to Airport Central station via a covered walkway. From there, the train takes about 18 minutes to reach Perth’s central station and continues on to Claremont. A ticket costs just 3.50 AUD, and you can pay directly at the gates with a contactless card or your smartphone. If instead you arrive at terminals T3 or T4, you can take the free shuttle bus no. 292 to Redcliffe station, where the trains to downtown leave from. Taxis and Uber are definitely more expensive.

Where to sleep in Perth?

Spinner’s Backpacker is a beautiful hostel with a relaxed atmosphere in downtown Perth, while Comfort Hotel seems to be a great budget option for those looking for something other than a hostel.

Margaret River

This region south of Perth is particularly renowned for its vineyards, which produce some of Australia’s best wines. In addition to wine, the region also has excellent beaches and, especially in recent years, mountain biking tourism has really taken off, with numerous trails starting a stone’s throw from town (here you’ll find a detailed map).

In town, check out the labyrinths. As far as beaches go, Hamelin Bay is probably the most picturesque in the region, but Yallingup and Smiths Beach further north are also definitely worth it, as are many other beaches in the region!

As for wineries, unfortunately I don’t have any to recommend, so I suggest you have a look at tripadvisor.

Finally, in case you’re interested in a trail that looks really interesting, head for the “Cape to Cape Track”: 123 km long, it crosses the region from north to south; here you can find more information.

Yallingup Beach.

Albany

For those continuing their journey south, Albany is about a 4-hour drive from Margaret River and is usually the next stop. If, on the other hand, you’re looking for an intermediate stop, take a look at Pemberton: this small town is on the way and is famous for a forest of giant eucalyptus trees inside Gloucester National Park, where there’s one particular tree that can be climbed and was used in the past as a fire lookout.

Finally, about an hour before arriving in Albany, I recommend stopping at Green Pools and Elephant cove, two exceptional beaches right next to each other.

Once you arrive in Albany, Middleton Beach and Emu Point are the two most beautiful beaches in town, while Little Beach, inside the Two People’s Bay reserve, is consistently voted one of the most beautiful in the country.

For great views of the city and the bay, I recommend going up Mount Clarence, where, in addition to some monuments such as the War Memorial and the Military Museum, there are numerous viewpoints.

Finally, don’t miss the nearby Torndirrup National Park, a beautiful coastal park famous for its spectacular rock formations, in particular Natural Bridge, The Gap, and Blow Holes.

Emu Bay.

Esperance

If you want to break the journey to Esperance (it’s about 500km), you could stop in the small town of Bremer Bay; the nearby Blossoms Beach is really worth it.

Once you arrive in Esperance, enjoy the fantastic beaches the region has to offer. Near downtown, Twilight Beach is probably the best, and while you’re there, visit the nearby Pink Lake. Then, I strongly recommend moving on to Lucky Bay and Wharton Beach, both within Cape Le Grand National Park. They’re undoubtedly among the most beautiful beaches in the world, not to be missed.

Lucky Bay.

There are two campgrounds within the park that I recommend booking in advance, especially during the high season (official website). 

Esperance is often where the classic road trip south of Perth ends. At this point, if you have to go back to Perth, I recommend stopping at Wave Rock, a curious rock formation that’s truly one of a kind: undoubtedly a great way to end a fantastic road trip in the south of Western Australia!

From here on, these are all destinations north of Perth, and they can be considered the “standard” West Coast itinerary.

Wave Rock.

Nambung National Park

This national park, located about 200 km north of Perth, is famous for the “Pinnacle Desert,” an arid expanse with numerous limestone pinnacles that create a surreal landscape.

There’s a circuit to follow by car, with several pull-outs where you can get out and walk among the pinnacles, plus a few viewpoints. Take your time, but either way, I think 1-2 hours is more than enough. Before you leave the park, check out the Discovery Centre, with interesting details about the area and how the pinnacles were formed.

Admission to the park costs $13 per vehicle, and the park itself is accessible at any time of day, while the Discovery Centre is open daily from 9:30 to 16:30.

The pinnacles.

Kalbarri National Park

After visiting the pinnacles, continue toward Kalbarri National Park along the coastal road and stop at Hutt Lagoon (pink lake) before continuing north.

Back to the park: it’s good to know that it’s divided into two parts, a coastal one and an inland one; the coastal part comes before you reach the town of Kalbarri, the gateway to the inland part of the park.

So, before arriving in town, I recommend visiting this part, and in particular, don’t miss, in this order: Eagle Gorge, Pot Alley, Mushroom Rock, Red Bluff, and the Blue Holes. These are all short stops to admire some curious rock formations or the scenic stretch of coastline.

Red Bluff.

The inland section of the park, on the other hand, is where the main attractions are, and they can be visited in a single day. The park’s landmark is undoubtedly Nature’s Window, a natural arch that perfectly frames the gorge in the background and is reached at the end of a short walk. Really photogenic!

Next comes Z Bend Lookout, another viewpoint at the end of a short trail, and finally, to the south, Hawks Head Lookout and Ross Graham Lookout. 

Entrance to the park costs $12 per vehicle – consider buying a pass. If you’re looking for cheap accommodation in Kalbarri where you can stay or camp, take a look at Murchison River Caravan Park; there are no campgrounds inside the park. If you’re looking for something more “luxurious,” take a look at Palm Resort.

Nature’s window.

Shark Bay 

This bay, which lies about 4 hours north of Kalbarri National Park, is really full of attractions, and if you have the chance, it’s worth devoting at least a couple of days to it, especially if you’re driving a 4×4.

What to do and see in Shark Bay

If you’re in a hurry, the main tourist attractions can be visited in a day, but, as I said, if you drive a 4×4, you can spend much more time exploring this beautiful region, which has been a World Heritage Site since 1991. Here you’ll find a detailed map of the area.

Hamelin Pool

Hamelin Pool is home to what is, to all intents and purposes, the oldest and largest living fossil in the world: stromatolites. These organisms, which thrive within Shark Bay, can be observed up close at this spot, thanks to special walkways built over the sea. Nothing exceptional or unmissable, but definitely something interesting to see!

Hamelin pool.

Monkey Mia

This reserve, located about 25 km north of Denham (the main town in the region), is famous for the bottlenose dolphins that have been visiting the beach daily for more than 40 years.

These dolphins are wild, so the number and times of their visits vary, but they generally come to the beach up to three times a day, and more often in the morning, so to maximize your chances of seeing them, it’s best to arrive early in the morning.

The dolphins are fed by the rangers, and under their supervision you can try it too, while swimming with them isn’t allowed under any circumstances; either way, the dolphins come so close to shore that you can simply stand in knee-deep water and watch them swim right next to you.

Admission to the reserve costs $6.

Shell Beach

This beach (Google Maps), which stretches for over 60 km, is truly one of a kind. In fact, it’s one of only two beaches in the world made up entirely of shells, which in some places are as much as 10 meters deep: a veritable mountain of shells!

Especially at low tide, the water level is extremely low, and you can walk hundreds of meters out to sea in just a few centimeters of water. Spend a couple of hours exploring the beach or soaking in the water, and enjoy this natural wonder.

The “sand” of Shell Beach.

Eagle Bluff

It’s simply a viewpoint with a short walk along the cliff, but the view of this stretch of coastline and the bay below, with its crystal-clear water, is simply exceptional.

It’s advisable to come before sunset: the location is ideal for watching the sun disappear over the horizon and, above all, for carefully watching the shallow waters of the bay. Seeing sharks, dolphins, and dugongs isn’t rare at all… I saw a shark!

Eagle Bluff.

Francois Peron National Park

This beautiful park (accessible only to 4×4 vehicles) covers the very tip of the peninsula north of Denham and is famous for its red cliffs, beautiful beaches, and crystal-clear water. Here you’ll find a map of the park.

If you enter the park in the afternoon, spend the night at the Big Lagoon campground, and the next day continue north, where, if you like, there are three more campgrounds with their own beaches (see map). The next day, reach Cape Peron for some breathtaking views. Here, you could hike the Wanamalu Trail along the coast to Skipjack Point, but if it’s too hot or you simply don’t feel like it, drive there.

I don’t know if it was the time of year (mid-September) or if it’s always like this, but on the stretch of beach between Cape Peron and Skipjack Point there were literally thousands of birds constantly coming and going, an incredible sight in a place that’s already extremely striking in itself.

Remember to bring enough water with you, as there’s no drinking water inside the park; here, just outside Denham, you can stock up for next to nothing.

Francois Peron National Park.

Steep Point (Edel Land National Park)

Steep Point, located on the outer of the two peninsulas that make up Shark Bay, is the westernmost point of mainland Australia and undoubtedly one of my favorite places in the entire country; however, it’s only accessible to 4×4 vehicles.

Here you’ll find a detailed map of Edel Land National Park, inside which Steep Point is located. If you’re coming from the south, it’s best to visit this part of Shark Bay first, so you don’t have to retrace your steps.

Personally, we visited the park on a day trip from Tamala Station, which is about 60 km south of the entrance. I recommend going up to Steep Point following the road that runs along the east coast, passing through beautiful Shelter Bay, and then coming back along the west coast without going down to Cray Fish Bay. That way, you can visit the park in a single, but really long, day.

Shelter Bay.

Whatever you do, don’t be fooled by the distances: you can’t travel at high speed, as the roads are either heavily corrugated or extremely sandy, so it takes much longer than expected to rack up the kilometers. Either way, I couldn’t recommend it enough; this is, without a doubt, one of the most incredible places I’ve visited in Australia.

If you want to go even further, you could visit nearby Dirk Hartog Island, which is named after the Dutch captain who first landed on the island back in 1616 and can be reached by a ferry that departs from near Steep Point (info). It’s an extremely remote place where the logistics of having enough fuel, water, and food aren’t exactly easy. If this sounds like something you’re interested in, I suggest you do your research and arrive prepared; unfortunately, we had to pass.

Steep Point.

Exmouth, Cape Range National Park, and Ningaloo Reef

Let’s start by clearing things up a bit, since these three names often get mixed up when talking about this stop on a West Coast itinerary: Exmouth is the small town that serves as the gateway to Cape Range National Park, whose shores overlook the Ningaloo Reef Marine Reserve, where in some stretches the coral reef is just a few hundred meters from the shore. Here you’ll find a detailed map.

The region is particularly popular from mid-March to late July, when whale sharks migrate through the bay, peaking between April and May. During this period, tours to spot them and snorkel with them depart daily and are offered just about everywhere in town.

I was there in September and, although I didn’t get the chance to see the whale sharks, I was really impressed by the region. I recommend spending at least a couple of nights inside the park at one of the many well-equipped campgrounds a stone’s throw from the sea, to use as a base for exploring the main attractions.

The ones I got to see and recommend are undoubtedly Turquoise Bay and Oyster Stacks (the latter during high tide) for excellent snorkeling; Sandy Bay is a beautiful beach for swimming, and finally, if you feel like taking a short hike, Mandu Mandu Gorge. Remember to bring your mask and snorkel, but above all, try to book your campsite a bit in advance if you’re planning to visit the park in peak season (official website).

Entrance to the park costs $12 per vehicle. Consider buying a pass.

The view from the campground.

Karijini National Park

This is, without a doubt, one of my favorite national parks in the entire country. I recommend exploring it on foot, because you’ll find deep gorges and remote natural pools, crossing truly breathtaking landscapes. I’m sure you’ll love it too. Here you’ll find a detailed map of the park.

There are only two options for sleeping inside the park: Dales Gorge Campground, a basic campground with toilets but no showers or drinking water; I didn’t mind it at all, and the location is perfect for visiting all the main attractions. Karijini Eco Retreat, on the other hand, isn’t exactly in a great location, but it definitely offers a more luxurious experience. If you like, you could stay outside the park in Tom Price, where there are a couple of options, but you’d lose a lot of time getting back and forth.

Entrance to the park costs $12 per vehicle. Consider buying a pass.

I recommend spending three days and two nights inside the park, following this itinerary. If you don’t have enough time, skip the first day’s plan.

Day 1

If you spent the night somewhere between Exmouth and Karijini, head to Hamersley Gorge, spend a couple of hours relaxing, and once the hottest hours are over, climb to the top of Mount Bruce, from where there are some fantastic views. It’s about a 10 km round trip. Spend the night at Dales Gorge Campground.

Spider Walk.

Day 2 

Visit Weano Gorge and follow the gorge until you reach Handrail Pool. If you feel like exploring, continue further until you reach the top of the waterfall of another natural pool, where there’s a clear sign telling you not to go any further. I strongly urge you to follow that advice, as it would be practically impossible to climb back up the rock face safely.

Next comes Hancock Gorge. From here, at the end of another beautiful walk, challenging but extremely fun, especially along the stretch of the “Spider Walk” where you walk between the very narrow walls of the gorge, you reach Kermits Pool, another really striking natural pool.

From here, visit the “Oxer Lookout” viewpoint; the trail is really short and starts near the main parking lot. Then, continue to Knox Gorge and Joffrey Falls before returning to the campground.

Day 3

Spend the day exploring the area around Dales Gorge. Take the trail to the circular pool, which is about an hour one way, and then visit Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool before leaving the park.

Circular Pool.

Eighty Mile Beach

This beach, located about 600 km north of Karijini National Park, is a great place to stop before continuing the journey to Broome. As the name suggests, it’s a really long beach, stretching for over 200 km, no less.

At this spot (after about 10 km of dirt road, but in good condition), as well as a great caravan park, there’s also beach access for vehicles. So if you drive a 4×4, you can spend a day exploring the endless deserted beach. The beach is often home to lots of migratory birds and is extremely famous for fishing; unfortunately, though, it isn’t suitable for swimming, as there are too many jellyfish, sharks, and stingrays, but it’s still a fascinating and peaceful place to spend a day or two on the way to Broome.

Sunset at Eighty Mile Beach.

Broome

Here we are at what, for many, is the final destination of a road trip along the West Coast, while for others it’s the starting point of another epic road trip in Western Australia, the one through the region called “Kimberley.”

Getting back to Broome, it’s basically an extremely popular beach destination during the dry season (May to September), so much so that the population triples during this period and campgrounds and hotels are often fully booked, especially in the middle of the season.

I didn’t get the chance to spend much time in town, so I honestly don’t know exactly what it has to offer, but the main beach, “Cable Beach,” is really nice and very popular. The sunsets are simply breathtaking, and I absolutely recommend that you don’t miss them if you’re in town.

The city is also famous for its crocodile and pearl farms, for which there are dedicated tours you can join.

At this point, if you plan to continue to the Northern Territory, you have two options:

  • if you’re driving a 4×4, I strongly recommend taking the Gibb River Road (dashed in red)
  • if instead you’re driving a regular car, take the Great Northern Highway (in black) further south, where there are still a couple of attractions worth visiting.

Below you’ll find a guide for both roads.

The Gibb River Road

Let’s start by saying that, despite its reputation, the condition of this roughly 650 km road has improved enormously in recent years, and during the dry season, completing this stretch is certainly no daunting task.

This is an extremely remote region, where it’s absolutely advisable, first of all, to drive a reliable vehicle and, secondly, to bring enough supplies, since the only official place where you can shop (at steep prices) is about halfway, at Mount Barnett. Before starting the trip, check the road conditions.

I recommend spending at least 7 days broadly following this itinerary. If you wanted to, you could spend many more or cut a few stops, but I think a week is the right compromise.

Day 1 

Broome -> Derby

Derby is a small town a couple of hours north of Broome that, honestly, I don’t think is worth visiting unless you plan to drive the Gibb River Road. Before you get into town, stop at the Boab Prison Tree along the main road. 

The city’s other “attraction” is the highest tide in the country, which can reach up to 12 meters in height and be observed at the pier. After that, you might drop by the visitor center to gather up-to-date information on the state of the road and possibly some maps.

Spend the night at the Caravan Park and prepare for the next day’s departure. 

Make absolutely sure you stock up on food, water, and fuel before leaving Derby.

Boab Prison Tree.

Day 2

Derby -> Tunnel Creek -> Windjana Gorge

Head to Tunnel Creek, where you can explore a series of caves filled with interesting rock formations. The route, about 750 meters long (you enter and exit from the same place), is pretty much always obvious and you’re never too far from other people. At times you have to walk in the water, so bring a flashlight and enjoy the walk!

Tunnel Creek.

Then head to Windjana Gorge National Park, where there’s a good campground to spend the night; during the high season, it’s probably better to make reservations. Before sunset, head to the gorge nearby to witness a truly unique spectacle: the river, practically dry (during the dry season), forms a kind of lake where hundreds of freshwater crocodiles wait for the bats to come out of the caves and literally catch them in midair the moment they try to drink! Remember to bring a flashlight for the way back.

The shapes in the water are all crocodiles.

Day 3 

Windjana Gorge -> Bell Gorge

Bell Gorge is one of the most beautiful waterfalls along the Gibb River Road. Start early in the morning from Windjana, spend the afternoon at Bell Gorge, which is reached at the end of a short trail, and finally spend the night at Silent Grove Campground, which isn’t far away.

Bell Gorge.

Day 4

Bell Gorge -> Galvans Gorge -> Mt Barnett Roadhouse -> Manning Gorge

Galvans Gorge isn’t as spectacular as Bell Gorge, but it’s definitely worth a visit: surrounded by greenery, it has a truly magical atmosphere, and there’s even a rope you can use to launch yourself into the water. From here, continue to Mt Barnett Roadhouse, where you can refuel before continuing to the campground, 7 km further north. 

From the campground to the falls is about a 7 km round trip, so you’re probably better off waiting until the next morning to undertake the hike at leisure and spend a couple of hours at the waterfall.

Manning Gorge.

Day 5

Manning Gorge -> El Questro Wilderness Park

If you manage to visit Manning Gorge the evening before, it’s possible to reach El Questro Station at the end of a very long day. Otherwise, spend the night at one of the rest stops along the Gibb River Road and continue the next day.

Day 6

Zebedee Spring and El Questro Gorge (El Questro Wilderness Park)

El Questro Wilderness Park is a beautiful private park whose entrance costs $22 per person. The campground (if you like, there are also luxurious rooms) at El Questro Station is also quite expensive, but personally I think it’s worth it given the level of services offered: hot showers, bar, restaurant, etc. etc.

If you have one day, I recommend visiting the Zebedee Springs, located at this spot, and then El Questro Gorge at this spot (I recommend downloading Organic Maps, which offers a very detailed offline map of the area).

The Zebedee Springs are at the end of a short trail, while for El Questro Gorge, you have to climb up a gorge with some not-so-easy sections, but nothing a healthy person can’t handle! Both places are absolutely fantastic.

Unfortunately, I didn’t get to spend any more time in this part of the park, but there are several activities to do, even on your own, and places to explore. If you’re interested, have a look at this page.

El Questro Gorge.

Day 7

El Questro Station -> Emma Gorge -> Kununurra

This is the last day along the Gibb River Road. Leave El Questro Station and return to the Gibb River Road. After a few kilometers, turn toward Emma Gorge. At this point, the roughly 2 km trail begins, leading to a beautiful waterfall where you can swim.

From Emma Gorge, continue to the end of the Gibb River Road, which joins the Great Northern Highway at this point. There are giant signs showing the road conditions, and the customary photo at the end of this beautiful adventure is a must!

Before you get to the small town of Kununurra, you could make a short detour north to “The Grotto,” a really nice natural amphitheater where, after 140 steps down to the bottom, you can swim. If you continue further north, in the small town of Wyndham, there’s a beautiful viewpoint, “Five Rivers lookout.”

As for Kununurra, you could go to the nearby Ngamoowalem Conservation Park (which I haven’t personally visited, though), continue your trip toward Katherine in the Northern Territory, or maybe spend a few days relaxing on the shores of Lake Argyle, in particular at Lake Argyle Caravan Park, which has a beautiful infinity pool!

Emma Gorge.

The Great Northern Highway

This part of the guide is for those who can’t (don’t have a 4×4) or don’t want to drive the Gibb River Road, or who are simply heading back to Broome after driving the Gibb River Road.

I’ll say up front that I haven’t driven this stretch of road, since once I finished the Gibb River, I continued north, but after a bit of research, here’s what you might consider.

Make your way to Halls Creek, where you could visit China Wall, a rock formation located just outside of town, and Sawpit Gorge, a desert oasis nearby. From what I’ve read, Wolf Creek Crater (which would take a day’s drive there and back) can also be visited without a 4×4, but I recommend checking with the visitor center for confirmation.

From Halls Creek, continuing north in a regular car, you don’t have many options other than going straight to Kununurra, which I talk about at the end of the Gibb River Road section. If instead you’re driving a 4×4 or are willing to join an organized tour, take a look at Purnululu National Park. 

Purnululu National Park.

South Australia

South Australia is one of the least visited regions in Australia, but that doesn’t make it any less interesting than the other states. As part of a road trip across the country, it’s definitely worth a visit.

The state basically has a Mediterranean climate, with hot summers and not-too-harsh winters: in short, pretty much any month of the year is fine for visiting, except for winter, from June to August, especially if you plan to spend a few days at the beach.

Adelaide

Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, with its 1.5 million inhabitants, is significantly less chaotic than Sydney and Melbourne. Additionally, unlike the other capital cities, Adelaide was never a convict settlement, but rather a so-called planned city, that is, a city designed on paper.

What to do and see in Adelaide

I only spent a couple of days in Adelaide, but honestly, I think one day is enough to visit the city’s main attractions.

I’d start the day by visiting the historic district of Glenelg. It’s on the waterfront, about ten kilometers from downtown, and especially during the summer months it’s extremely pleasant, with numerous bars and restaurants and, of course, a beach that’s not bad at all.

In the afternoon, visit the city center starting at Victoria Square and perhaps visit the nearby Central Market. Then, continue to Rundle Mall, a pedestrian street (the first in Australia) with numerous stores, boutiques, and some iconic sculptures. Walk further north and visit the Adelaide Botanical Gardens.

A side street off Rundle Mall.

How do you get around Adelaide?

The city center is extremely compact, and you can easily get around on foot, while for public transportation, you need to buy a MetroCard (you can also buy one on board the buses).

Where to sleep in Adelaide?

Sunny’s Adelaide Backpacker Hostel: the hostel is definitely showing its age, but it’s really cheap, the breakfast pancakes are delicious, it offers free parking, and the two men who run it are extremely friendly and helpful. If you’re looking for a hotel, The Chancellor on Currie looks like a great option.

Kangaroo Island

Unfortunately, I didn’t have the pleasure of visiting what seems to be a simply fantastic island, because during my road trip from Melbourne to Darwin, I found myself around here in mid-June with not exactly summery temperatures and, on top of that, a bad weather forecast, so we reluctantly decided to move on, and the same goes for the Yorke Peninsula.

In any case, I’ve gathered some information that I’m sure will come in handy if you want to visit them.

Let’s start by saying that the island can be reached in two ways: by plane and by ferry. Flights are operated by Qantas, with departures from Melbourne and Adelaide, while Sealink and Kangaroo Island Connect operate ferries. The former allows you to bring your own vehicle on board, while the latter is passengers only, but the company lets you rent a car directly from them when you arrive on the island. Both companies depart from Cape Jervis on the mainland, and bus connections are possible.

To get around the island, having a car is highly recommended, as public transportation is practically nonexistent. Starting from Penneshaw, a possible three-day itinerary could be as follows:

Day 1

Start at Emu Bay, then follow the coast along the North Coast Road until you reach Stokes Bay. From here, continue to the lighthouse, which is within the national park. There are a number of trails here, including the “Cliff Top Hike,” which seems to be really scenic. You could spend the night at Harveys Return campground or further south at West Bay Beach, which seems more inviting.

Admirals Arch.

Day 2

Try to get to Platypus Water Holes early in the morning so you have a chance to see platypuses. Then continue to Admirals Arch, an iconic rock formation where seals can often be seen. Between May and October, you can often spot whales in the distance. 

Numerous trails also start from here, or else get in the car and drive to the Remarkable Rocks. These giant granite boulders have truly fascinating shapes and colors. Finally, visit Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary before stopping at what’s considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the country, Vivonne Bay, and spend the night at Vivonne Bay Campground.

Day 3

Visit Cape Gantheaume National Park. The park offers many trails, but you could simply drive along D’Estrees Bay Road and stop when you feel the need. Climb to the top of Mount Thisby for a great view of the entire island before returning to Penneshaw and catching the ferry.

Yorke Peninsula

As I said earlier, because of the wrong season and the bad weather, I didn’t have the pleasure of exploring the peninsula. If I were you, I’d check out Innes National Park. Some of the main spots are Ethel Beach, Dolphin Bay, and Cape Spencer Lighthouse.

That said, the Yorke Peninsula has a lot more to offer, and I suggest you check out this page, where I’m sure you’ll find more than a few ideas.

Cape Spencer lighthouse.

The Clare Valley, McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley

The Clare Valley, McLaren Vale, and Barossa Valley, all located around Adelaide, are the three main wine regions in South Australia.

Personally, I only visited a couple of wineries in the Clare Valley, but there are really lots of options. For what it’s worth, Paulett Wines isn’t bad at all, both in terms of wine and location: they have a really nice terrace.

A fabulous sunset in the Clare Valley.

Flinders Ranges National Park

This national park is slightly off the main tourist routes since, continuing north, many people take the Stuart Highway toward Uluru, but if you’re willing to make a “small” 170 km detour, I personally think it’s worth it. Here you’ll find a detailed map of the park.

I spent my stay at Wilpena Campground, which I believe is the only one inside the park to offer running water and hot showers, but there are plenty of others if you like.

Inside the park, there are numerous trails of all difficulty levels, for which I suggest you take a look at this page (or head straight to the visitor center once you arrive), but I strongly recommend driving the Bunyeroo Valley Scenic Drive. Although unpaved, the road is in good condition, and it should be possible to drive it even without a 4×4 vehicle; the scenery is fantastic.

Razorback lookout.

Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park

This national park is definitely off the beaten path, and even though I loved it, I’d advise against visiting it unless you have quite a lot of time available. First of all, to reach it from Flinders Range, you need a 4×4: the road isn’t in great condition, especially the stretch that connects the park first to Maree and then to William Creek, before joining the Stuart Highway again in the direction of Uluru.

For me, even just driving literally in the middle of nowhere and visiting “villages” scattered across the Australian Outback like William Creek (population 10!) was a surreal experience, but the fact remains that this “little detour” from the classic itinerary takes up quite a few days.

If it still sounds like something you’re interested in, from Flinders Range I suggest you head for the small village of Arkaroola. Here there’s a sort of visitor center run, among others, by an extremely kind gentleman, and you’ll find accommodation to suit all tastes.

There are numerous walking trails and 4×4 tracks, and all kinds of tours are offered, including scenic flights over the area! For all the relevant information, I suggest you check out the official website.

Arkaroola in the distance.

Coober Pedy

This small town, which describes itself as the world’s opal capital, owes its existence to the very opals mined in this area.

Located in the middle of the Outback, it is, in fact, hundreds of kilometers from civilization, with a decidedly hostile climate where summer daytime temperatures can easily exceed 40°C, and that’s precisely why, in the early years of the “opal fever,” numerous buildings were constructed entirely underground to escape the heat.

As interesting as it is, in my opinion, this small town isn’t worth more than a day: there are a couple of museums and opal exhibitions where the town’s history is told, and numerous stores selling jewelry set with opals, and the opals themselves. What fascinated me the most was sleeping underground; several places offer it, and I slept at the Radeka Downunder Motel: it’s the cheapest option, and honestly, it wasn’t bad at all.

The hostel dug into the rock.

Tasmania

With Tasmania, the country’s only island state, the “What to do and see” section on Australia comes to an end. Unfortunately, this is the only region of the country that I haven’t had the chance to visit firsthand: an extremely wild island and, by many accounts, an extraordinary place for nature and trekking lovers. Over 45% of its territory is covered by national parks, and it’s by far the most mountainous state in Australia, but the beaches are spectacular too!

The classic road trip seems to be fairly standard and to last at least a week; for more information, I suggest you check out these two resources: one-week itinerary and two-week itinerary.

Wineglass Bay, Tasmania.

Recommended itineraries in Australia

If you’ve made it this far in the guide, you’re probably wondering: “But how much time do you need to visit all these places?!” To complete what’s often called “The Big Lap,” that is, a complete overland loop of the country, which is basically what I’ve just described section by section, it takes anywhere from a minimum of 3-4 months up to a year, although I think 5-6 months is a good compromise.

I fully realize that very few people have this amount of time and money available, not least because Australia certainly isn’t famous for being a cheap destination; that’s why below I’ve put together a few itineraries that can be completed in a shorter amount of time.

As with any place, there’s no perfect itinerary for a given amount of time, and that’s especially true here in Australia, where the options are endless and a lot depends on the season, so take what follows as inspiration and modify or create the itinerary according to your interests/budget!

Two/three-week itinerary in Australia: East Coast

Two weeks are enough to see the main attractions along the East Coast following the itinerary described below, but it would definitely be advisable to complete the itinerary in three weeks, perhaps adding a few more stops, such as Brisbane and Magnetic Island.

Alternatively, if you have a couple of days left over, you could visit Uluru or Melbourne with domestic flights. Generally, the best time to travel the East Coast is from April to November.

Sydney (2 nights)

Day 1-2:

In the dedicated section of the guide, you’ll find a suggested two-day itinerary.

Byron Bay (2 nights)

Day 3:

You spend almost the whole day in the car/bus.

Day 4:

Enjoy Byron Bay, and don’t miss the iconic lighthouse walk. 

Noosa (2 nights)

Day 5:

Transfer from Byron Bay to Noosa in the morning. Afternoon at the beach.

Day 6:

Visit Noosa National Park.

K’gari (Fraser Island) (3 nights)

Day 7-8-9:

If you’re traveling by bus, have a look at the various tours (some offer transportation from Noosa); if instead you’re driving a regular car, you’re better off driving to Rainbow Beach; and if you plan to take your own 4×4 onto the island, check out my tips on how to do it in the dedicated section.

Whatever you choose, on the third day, when you get back from the island, I recommend spending the night at Rainbow Beach and going to watch the sunset at this spot.

Airlie Beach – Whitsundays Island (4 nights)

Day 10:

Long day by car/bus from Rainbow Beach to Airlie Beach.

Day 11-12-13:

Three-day, two-night tour of the Whitsundays. On the third day, upon returning from the tour, I recommend spending the night at Airlie Beach.

Cairns (2 nights)

Day 14:

Airlie Beach – Cairns transfer. Explore Cairns in the afternoon/evening.

Day 15:

Snorkeling/diving at the coral reef.

Daintree Forest (1 night) 

Day 16-17:

Explore the coast from Cairns to Cape Tribulation by traversing the ancient Daintree Forest.

As you can see, if you follow the itinerary just described to the letter and have three weeks available, you’d have a couple of days left over to use however you like; if instead you only have exactly two weeks, I suggest you drop the Daintree Forest and join shorter tours to K’gari (Fraser Island)/the Whitsundays.

Three-week itinerary in Australia: from Melbourne to Darwin (Outback)

To complete this itinerary, it’s practically impossible to rely on public transportation, and it’s preferable (but not necessary) to be in a 4×4 to visit the many national parks as best you can.

Generally, the best time to complete this itinerary is April to November.

Melbourne (2 nights)

Day 1: 

Explore downtown Melbourne.

Day 2:

Visit Phillip Island.

Great Ocean Road (1 night)

Day 3:

Drive along the Great Ocean Road to Port Campbell.

Adelaide (2 nights)

Day 4:

Drive the last stretch of the Great Ocean Road before heading to Adelaide.

Day 5:

Explore Adelaide.

Coober Pedy (1 night)

Day 6:

Long day of driving from Adelaide to Coober Pedy. In the evening, if you have time left over, briefly explore the town, or do it the following morning.

Ayers Rock (2 nights)

Day 7:

This is another long day’s drive from Coober Pedy to Yulara.

Day 8:

Visit Uluru and Kata Tjuta as described in the guide.

Kings Canyon (1 night)

Day 9:

Yulara – Kings Canyon Resort transfer in the morning. King’s Canyon Walk in the afternoon.

At this point, if you’re driving a 4×4, I recommend you continue north along the dirt road (you need to buy a permit to travel this road; you can buy it at the resort) in the direction of West MacDonnell National Park, where you can spend a couple of nights; otherwise, turn around and take the Stuart Highway toward Alice Springs (as described below).

Alice Springs (1 night)

Day 10:

Transfer from Kings Canyon to Alice Springs. If you feel like it, briefly explore the town in the late afternoon/evening.

Tennant Creek (1 night)

Day 11:

Drive to Tennant Creek (and further north if you feel like it), stopping along the way to see the Devils Marbles.

Mataranka (2 nights)

Day 12-13:

Drive from Tennant Creek, or wherever you got to, to Mataranka. I recommend spending the afternoon/evening at the most popular section of the park and moving to Bitter Springs Campground the next day.

Nitmiluk (Katherine) National Park (2 nights)

Day 14:

In the morning, take a kayak and explore Katherine Gorge; it has to be booked in advance, see the guide.

Day 15:

Move to Edith Falls and complete the circuit as described in the guide.

Litchfield National Park (1-2 nights)

Day 16-17:

If you’re driving a 4×4, it’s worth spending two nights inside the park, while otherwise I think one night is enough; see the guide.

Kakadu National Park (2-3 nights)

Day 18-19-20:

Here too, the itinerary changes depending on the vehicle; see the guide.

Darwin (1 night)

Day 21:

Visit the Sunset Market. 

By cutting out a few days here and there and perhaps one of the national parks to the north, it’s probably possible to complete the itinerary in less than three weeks. If instead you have more time available, consider other destinations, such as Kangaroo Island, Grampians National Park, and Flinders Ranges National Park.

Two/three-week itinerary in Australia: West Coast

Even though this itinerary doesn’t include any of the most famous destinations, like Uluru and the Great Barrier Reef, or the two best-known cities (Melbourne and Sydney), it’s personally my favorite.

The “classic” itinerary from Perth to Broome can be completed in two weeks (as explained below), but if you have the chance, I strongly recommend adding an extra week and also completing the Gibb River Road (with a 4×4); if you have even more time available, consider a mini road trip in the southwestern part of the coast: Margaret River, Albany, and Esperance.

For the classic itinerary along the coast from Perth to Broome, the best times to get good weather both in the south and in the north are September-October and April-May (March to July is whale shark season in Exmouth), but the middle months of winter (June-August) are also more than fine, even if it’s not exactly warm in the south. If instead you plan to visit the area south of Perth (Margaret River, Albany, and Esperance), the summer months (November-March) are the best time.

N.b. It’s definitely worth getting the Western Australia pass, which you can find on this page. Along the West Coast, long-distance public transportation is virtually nonexistent.

Perth (2 nights)

Day 1:

Visit the city.

Day 2:

Go to Rottnest Island.

Nambung National Park (1 night)

Day 3:

Leave Perth and visit Nambung National Park. Keep driving north toward first Hutt Lagoon and then Kalbarri. Drive as far as you feel like, but stop before the sun goes down.

Kalbarri National Park (1 night)

Day 4:

If you get close enough to the park the day before, it’s definitely possible to visit all the main attractions in a single day and spend the night on the way to Shark Bay.

Shark Bay (2-4 nights)

Day 5-6:

Here it depends a lot on what kind of vehicle you’re driving: if you’re driving a 4×4, add two nights, one for Steep Point and another for Francois Peron National Park; otherwise, two nights are enough.

Exmouth, Cape Range National Park and Ningaloo Reef (3 nights)

Day 7:

Traveling from Shark Bay to Exmouth takes practically the whole day. If it’s the right season, arrange the tour to see the whale sharks the next day.

Day 8-9:

Possible whale shark tour; otherwise, enjoy the national park.

Karijini National Park (3 nights)

Day 10:

You spend practically the whole day driving to Karijini National Park.

Day 11-12:

Explore the park.

Eighty Mile Beach (1 night)

Day 13:

Reach Eighty Mile Beach and spend the night here.

Broome (1 night)

Day 14:

Reach Broome and enjoy the sunset over Cable Beach.

How to get around Australia

I strongly believe the best way to explore this beautiful country is overland. That said, there are numerous options to consider.

As for public transportation (buses, trains, etc.), although it’s extremely efficient within the big cities and main metropolitan areas, when it comes to completing, for example, one of the itineraries I’ve just described, the only one that can be done relying on public transportation alone is the East Coast one, where three companies offer “hop on hop off passes” at fairly cheap prices, worth considering especially if you’re traveling solo: Greyhound is the most popular, has several daily runs and more modern buses, Premier is the cheapest option, has slightly older buses and in many cases only one daily run, and finally Stray offers a service similar to an organized tour, since in addition to transportation, its passes also include activities.

For any other kind of trip, you basically either rely on organized tours or get yourself a vehicle.

Camper vans are extremely popular because, besides getting you around, they also give you a place to sleep, with interior space or rooftop tents. There are literally dozens of companies renting out cars, camper vans, and 4×4 vehicles; some operate only in certain regions, others have special conditions that prohibit driving in certain areas of the country, such as K’gari (Fraser Island). Personally, I’ve never rented a vehicle in Australia, so I can’t recommend one, but if you’re looking for a list that I think is pretty comprehensive, have a look at this page under “Car Rental” and do the necessary research.

My travel companion for a good part of my trip.

Two other options, which definitely require a good dose of flexibility, though, are the so-called “rideshares,” which are very common among travelers in Australia (I myself traveled the West Coast this way): basically, there are sections of sites like Gumtree Rideshare or Facebook groups where offers of, or requests for, travel companions are posted.

The second option, on the other hand, is “Car/Campervan Relocation,” another extremely popular practice in Australia, which consists of moving vehicles from point A to point B within a given time frame. Sometimes, you only have to pay for the fuel, and the rental is completely free; other times, the fuel is also included, or you may have to pay a small amount. In any case, it’s way cheaper than renting a vehicle. Numerous sites offer this type of service, above all Transfercar.

Finally, for long trips (several months), I think it’s definitely worth considering buying a vehicle to sell once the trip is over; barring any nasty surprises, at the end of the day I think it’s the cheapest option.

For domestic flights, the main airlines are Qantas and Virgin, while Jetstar is the low-cost one. There are also some companies, such as Rex, Airnorth, SkyTrans, SharpAirlines, and Ntas, that operate small aircraft between towns in regional areas of the country.

Backpacking in Australia: costs

Let’s get one thing straight right away: Australia is an expensive country even by European standards, unless you’re used to the cost of living in Switzerland or northern Europe.

For a hostel bed, expect to pay at least $20, in Sydney and Melbourne even $25, and for a hotel room at least $50. Organized activities aren’t exactly cheap either, with tours costing, roughly speaking, at least $100 a day. To eat out at a restaurant, expect to pay at least $20-40 depending on the place, although, especially in Chinese neighborhoods or in the so-called “food courts” of shopping malls, you can often eat a really hearty rice/noodle meal for $8-10.

As for supermarkets, the cheapest by far is Aldi, followed by Coles and Woolworths.

Alcohol and tobacco are another really sore point for anyone who uses them: the taxes on these products are really high, and a beer in a bar can easily cost $10.

In Australia, outside the big cities, you can camp practically anywhere, and it’s absolutely part of Australian culture. Some national parks offer free campgrounds, others great equipped campgrounds for little more than $10 a night, and you can often simply pitch your tent at a rest area, on a deserted beach, or in a caravan park; some of these options offer really high standards, with swimming pools, hot water, and great shared areas to cook or just relax.

On that note, I strongly recommend downloading WikiCamps; it proved extremely useful during my road trips.

Happy but exhausted at the end of the Gibb River Road.

In short, regardless of what kind of traveler you are, if you want to explore Australia’s most beautiful and remote areas, camping is practically a must and, in my opinion, the number one rule for saving money while traveling in Australia.

To wrap up, a careful traveler who travels on a budget can definitely travel around the country on a daily budget of at least $70-80, so about €50 a day, assuming they travel by bus along the East Coast or share transportation costs with other people in the other regions, obviously not counting flights and health insurance.

To reduce exchange and withdrawal fees, see my guide to the best cards for traveling.

Backpacking in Australia: safety

The way I see it, from a crime point of view, Australia is a far safer country than Italy, and the statistics confirm it, so if I were you, I wouldn’t worry too much.

What I’d worry about more seriously (I absolutely don’t want to scare you, just to get you to use common sense) are the environmental factors. As you probably know, Australia is particularly famous for the many extremely dangerous animals that live there. Especially in the north, pay particular attention to the signs: many beaches are infested with saltwater crocodiles and the famous “box jellyfish,” and as if that weren’t enough, although attacks on humans are rare, sharks are present practically everywhere.

Finally, especially if you’re not an experienced swimmer, be extremely careful of strong ocean currents: some beaches are famous for strong “Rip Currents,” that is, currents that pull you out to sea and, if you panic, can be deadly. You can find a video here.  

On land, the number one dangers are spiders and snakes. I don’t think it needs to be said, but avoid contact with such creatures. If you find yourself camping inside some national park or far from civilization, it’s good practice to always keep vehicles and tents closed, so that no unwanted guest ends up in the wrong place at the wrong time!

One of the animals that like to cross the road.

Of course, it’s not like snakes and spiders are hiding in the bushes waiting for someone to leave a tent open, but as I said, it’s good practice to close everything behind you.

As for road trips along the West Coast, in the Outback, or in other regions that are less densely populated than the East Coast, where the vast majority of the population lives, it’s absolutely essential to carry several liters of water with you: often, even at campgrounds inside national parks, drinking water is by no means a given.

Also in these less populated regions, avoid driving at night: wild animals are extremely active during the cooler hours, and hitting a kangaroo even at 50 km/h without a bull bar spells disaster.

To wrap up, although there’s an agreement between Italy and Australia that provides free healthcare for up to six months (the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours), this coverage, called “Medicare,” only includes basic care that doesn’t even cover the cost of an ambulance, so it’s strongly recommended to take out separate travel insurance.

P.S. Australians live with the ozone hole over their heads, and for years, skin cancers have been a big problem in this country; use proper protection!

Are you planning a trip to Australia? Check out these posts:

Which travel backpack to choose

What to bring on your trip

Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!

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