Colombia Travel Guide
Colombia is undoubtedly one of the hottest destinations of the moment. Associated for years with guerrillas and drug trafficking, it has made such strides in security that Lonely Planet named it the second-best country to visit in 2017.
I spent 6 weeks traveling on a budget as a backpacker in Colombia, and here you’ll find my guide to visiting it with a close eye on costs, which can certainly also come in handy for those who “spare no expense”.
Quick menu
- Why visit Colombia
- When to visit Colombia
- Documents and vaccinations to enter Colombia
- What to do and see in Colombia
- Suggested itineraries in Colombia
- How to get around Colombia
- Backpacking Colombia: costs
- Backpacking Colombia: safety and security
The Colombian parliament, Bogotá.
Why visit Colombia
- Biodiversity: Colombia ranks 17th for environmental diversity and even takes first place for variety of species per square kilometer! There are 311 ecosystems and around 55,000 species of flora and fauna. The landscape ranges from the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada to Caribbean paradises, by way of the Amazon rainforest. Nature lovers certainly won’t get bored.
- Culture: From the pre-Columbian civilizations to the more recent dark era of the war on drug trafficking, by way of the colonial period, Colombia has a huge amount to offer in terms of history and culture.
- A great budget destination: For lovers of budget travel like me, this is without a doubt something to take into account. Although it’s not the cheapest country in Latin America (Peru and above all Bolivia are undoubtedly cheaper), Colombia is still undoubtedly a budget destination.
- The people: Maybe it’s because mass tourism is a very recent phenomenon, so people haven’t grown tired of tourists yet and still show a certain interest in them, or maybe it’s because being kind and friendly is part of their culture, but having visited most of Latin America, I found Colombians to be undoubtedly the friendliest.
When to visit Colombia
The proximity to the equator means that temperatures remain constant throughout the year and vary mainly with altitude. What differs significantly with the time of year is rainfall; in fact, there are two seasons:
- The dry season, December-January and July-August, is commonly called summer.
- The rainy season, April-May and October-November, is usually called winter.
The Amazon rainforest covers about a third of Colombia, and here, unfortunately, the climate is humid throughout the year.
It’s good to remember that the tourist season, with the highest prices, is from December to February. Although this period coincides with the best weather, it’s good to remember that even during the rainy season, the rain comes as short storms and never lasts long, which makes it an excellent year-round destination.
Mirador Alto de la Cruz in Salento.
Documents and vaccinations to enter Colombia
With an Italian passport (valid for more than 6 months) you receive a 90-day tourist visa when you enter the country (the rules change depending on your nationality, so check yours). You can renew the visa by leaving the country and coming back in, even on the same day, and this will get you another 90 days on your visa.
Alternatively, you can renew the visa for another 90 days by going to one of the many immigration offices in the main Colombian cities. Keep in mind that the maximum stay allowed on a tourist visa is 180 days per calendar year (from 1 January to 31 December).
Colombia doesn’t require any mandatory vaccinations, but Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B and yellow fever are recommended, the latter especially if you decide to visit the Amazon rainforest.
For up-to-date information on visas and everything else, I recommend checking your own government’s official travel advice (for example, the UK’s Foreign travel advice).
Where to go and what to see in Colombia
As you can see from the map, most of the tourist destinations, as well as the main cities, are clustered in the west and north of the country, while the southeast is covered by the Amazon rainforest. Below you’ll often find prices in Colombian pesos (COP); the exchange rate is about 1€ = 3600 COP. For the current rate, I suggest you take a look at this page.
N.b. Several times throughout the guide you’ll find links to https://www.alltrails.com/. If you want to use offline navigation directly from the AllTrails app, you need to upgrade to the pro version. However, you can get around this by downloading the coordinates from the desktop version of the site in “Google Earth KML” format and then uploading them to Organic Maps, which is by far one of my favorite travel apps.
Bogotá
Bogotá is 2664 meters above sea level, so you may need to acclimatize. As soon as you arrive, even climbing the stairs might leave you short of breath. Here you’ll find some tips for getting over so-called “altitude sickness”; in general, try not to overdo it and drink plenty of water.
In all likelihood, this will be your first stop, and although the capital is snubbed by many travelers, it actually has a lot to offer:
What to do and see in Bogotá
La Candelaria
This is the area (Google Maps) where most of the hostels are; it’s one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city and can be compared to our historic town centers in Italy. The area is full of colonial buildings, street artists, graffiti and the typical narrow little streets of the old days; here you can also visit Plaza Bolivar (Google Maps), which is overlooked by the cathedral and the government buildings. Although it’s not among the safest areas at night, I still recommend it for the atmosphere and the location.
Another tour that works like the free walking tours and that I’d recommend is the Graffiti tour. Both tours are basically free, but a tip is almost mandatory, especially if you decide to stay until the end.
On the streets of Bogotá.
Gold Museum
This museum (Google Maps) receives about 500,000 tourists every year and holds the largest collection of gold artifacts in the world. Two other museums that are definitely worth a mention are the Museo Nacional (Google Maps) and the Botero Museum (Google Maps).
Cost 3000 COP, free on Sundays.
Monserrate
It’s a mountain (Google Maps) with a church at the top that overlooks the city from its 3152 meters. It’s easy to reach thanks to a cable car, and once you get to the top you can enjoy an incredible view over this endless city.
How to get to Monserrate?
You can go up by cable car; it costs 20000 COP round trip from Monday to Saturday and 11000 on Sunday. Alternatively, you can walk up (about 1 hour and 400 meters of elevation gain); the trail is open every day except Tuesday from 5:00 to 13:00 to go up and until 16:00 to come down.
The view from Monserrate.
Catedral de Sal
This cathedral (Google Maps), carved out of a former salt mine, is the largest of its kind in the world and can easily be visited on a day trip from Bogotá, either by public transportation (which I recommend) or on an organized tour.
How to get to the Salt Cathedral from Bogotá?
If you’re staying near La Candelaria, head to the Transmilenio Las Aguas station (Calle 19 and Carrera 3), buy a ticket (1700 COP) and get on the B74 bus to the last stop, Portal Norte (about 45 minutes), then go to the “Intermunicipal” platform and take the bus to Zipaquira (about 45 minutes, 4100 COP). Someone yelled “catedral de Sal” at me once we got to the right stop, but it’s probably better to ask in advance! From the stop you have to walk about 2km, or alternatively take a taxi. Admission to the cathedral costs 55000 COP and includes a guided tour.
Finally, a reader recommended I visit the Guadalupe sanctuary (Google Maps; it sits on a “cerro” right next to Monserrate), which has a wonderful view. It’s much less touristy than Monserrate; you can’t walk up, you can only get there by motorcycle taxi, and only on Sundays. The locals advised me against going up there alone during the week.
Where to sleep in Bogotá?
Granada Hostel, located in the heart of Candelaria, is an excellent hostel at a reasonable price.
The coffee region in Colombia
The coffee region of Colombia (Eje Cafetero) is a rural area of Colombia where the vast majority of Colombian coffee, considered by many to be the best coffee in the world, is produced. Of all the possible destinations within this region, Salento is undoubtedly the most famous, while Filandia is an excellent, less touristy alternative.
How to reach the coffee region?
To reach either town, you have to go through Armenia, the region’s capital and public transportation hub; minibuses leave from there for both Filandia and Salento.
Bogotá -> Armenia 55000 COP and 6-8 hours
Armenia -> Filandia 5000 COP and about 45 minutes
Armenia -> Salento 4800 COP and about 45 minutes
Armenia -> Medellin 60000 COP 9-10 hours
Coffee tour in Filandia.
What to do and see in Salento, Colombia
As I said earlier, Salento is probably the most touristy destination in the “coffee region”. Here, besides visiting one of the many fincas (farms) that produce coffee and joining one of the many coffee tours that show you the whole production process, from harvesting to tasting, you can visit the Cocora Valley (part of Los Nevados National Park), where you can see the Wax Palms, which can reach 60 meters in height, making them the tallest palms in the world.
The valley is easily reached by jeeps that depart regularly from Salento’s main square (Google Maps) and take about half an hour to reach their destination.
Once you arrive, you can take a 4-5 hour circuit (All Trails) that winds along the valley, or take a short walk just to admire the palm trees. If you decide to do the entire circuit, I recommend also stopping at the Hummingbird Sanctuary (it used to cost only 3000 COP, but now they charge 20000 COP, which is maybe a bit too much). To get back to the village, just hop in one of the jeeps that head back frequently once they’re full.
Finally, close to the town center there’s a nice viewpoint called Mirador Alto de la Cruz (Google Maps).
How do you reach the Cocora Valley from Salento?
Jeeps leave from the square at the following times: 6:10, 7:30, 9:30 and 11:30, for 4500 COP, about half an hour. Entrance fee to access the valley 20000 COP.
Where to sleep in Salento, Colombia?
I recommend staying at Km0 Hostel.
The Cocora Valley.
What to do and see in Filandia
Filandia is an alternative destination that I recommend to anyone who wants to avoid the far more popular Salento. Full of brightly colored colonial buildings and with very few tourists wandering the streets, it’s every bit as good as its more famous sister.
Here you can visit one of the many coffee fincas, explore the surroundings of the town, full of breathtaking scenery, on foot or by bike, or simply spend the day sipping delicious coffee.
Where to sleep in Filandia?
Bidea Backpackers Hostel is one of the best hostels I’ve ever stayed in. The staff is super friendly and helpful, breakfast is included and coffee is free all day. There are bikes available for getting around the area and a movie room, all at a great price. I can’t recommend it enough!
Medellin
Medellin is Colombia’s second-largest city in terms of population. Although infamous for its history of violence related mainly to drug trafficking, the city has made enormous strides in recent years, so much so that it was recently voted the world’s most innovative city, ahead of New York and Tel Aviv.
The cable car that takes you to Parque Arvi, Medellin.
What to do and see in Medellin
I recommend joining the free walking tour (probably the best one I’ve ever taken part in): by joining the tour, not only will you have a guide who is extremely knowledgeable about the city’s history, but you’ll also find it easier to meet other people (useful if you’re traveling alone). The points of interest the tour covers are: the old train station (Google Maps), Alpujarra, the city’s administrative center (Google Maps), the Plaza of Lights (Google Maps), the National Palace (Google Maps), the Veracruz Church (Google Maps), Botero Square (Google Maps), Bolivar (Google Maps), San Antonio (Google Maps), and Berrio (Google Maps) parks.
Other places I recommend visiting are the Minorista market (Google Maps) and Parque Lleras (Google Maps) at night (the park is at the center of Medellin’s nightlife, surrounded by bars and clubs). Two other pleasant and extremely cheap activities are getting to Parque Arvi (Google Maps) by cable car (it’s directly connected to the metro and is part of the public transportation system for all intents and purposes) and visiting the escalators of Comuna 13 (Google Maps), the botanical garden (be sure to get inside the giant “cage” where the butterflies are) (Google Maps). For lovers of science, nature, and technology, I strongly recommend Parque Explora (Google Maps), which isn’t far away (it’s basically an interactive museum).
Finally, if you get the chance to go and see a soccer game at the stadium, don’t think twice. Maybe avoid going into the ultras’ stand alone and bringing valuables with you, but otherwise you should be fine and can enjoy a really warm atmosphere.
A blog reader also told me (you’ll find their comment at the bottom of the page) that admission to the Medellin planetarium (Google Maps) costs 11000 pesos and is worth it if you love astronomy.
Where to sleep in Medellin?
I stayed in Medellin for 3 weeks and can recommend two different hostels. Arcadia Hostel is where I spent most of my time; just outside El Poblado (the safest and most chic area of the city), it’s a good hostel, cheap and clean, and the pancake breakfast is included. Casa Kiwi Hostel is really well located and well laid out, but not exactly cheap.
Guatapé
Guatapé (Google Maps) is a short distance from Medellin (2 hours by bus) and is easy to reach by public transportation, great for a day trip. Famous for its brightly colored historic buildings, it’s a really pretty little town to visit, but the real attraction is definitely the Piedra del Peñol (Google Maps).
This rather curious monolith was once revered by the indigenous tribes, and it’s easy to see why. Now you can climb the stairs to the top, from where you can enjoy a beautiful view of the lake below.
How to get from Medellin to Guatapé?
Buses leave the Medellin bus terminal (Google Maps) every hour and cost 12500 COP.
Piedra del Peñol entrance fee 20000 COP.
The colorful streets of Guatapé.
Cartagena
Cartagena, known in the colonial era as Cartagena de Indias, is a port city founded in 1533 in northern Colombia overlooking the Caribbean Sea. In 1984, the historic center of Cartagena became one of UNESCO’s protected sites.
What to do and see in Cartagena
The walled historic center, among the most beautiful in all of South America, is definitely the city’s main attraction. Other noteworthy sites include the fort (within walking distance) (Google Maps) that dominates the city and Playa Blanca (Google Maps), a beautiful but very touristy beach about an hour out of town (by bus).
The graffiti tour is definitely a nice way to fill half a day; there are a lot of art pieces and in many cases they’re remarkable.
Walking around town, you’ll definitely be offered a boat tour to visit some islands, go snorkeling and visit Playa Blanca. Since I didn’t do it, I can’t give any feedback, but I imagine it could be a nice way to spend the day.
I’d also like to mention the hostel Casa en el Agua, a dream hostel in the middle of the sea among the San Bernardo islands, about two hours from Cartagena. It’s not exactly cheap, considering that a spot in a hammock costs a whopping 70000 COP a night, but it’s undoubtedly a one-of-a-kind location.
Finally, budget travelers should know that Cartagena is definitely the most touristy destination in all of Colombia, and as a result prices tend to be higher than in the rest of the country.
How to get to Playa Blanca?
The round-trip shuttle service to Playa Blanca, offered by many hostels and hotels, costs 50000 COP; alternatively, you can take a bus to Pascaballos at the intersection of Calle 30 and Carrera 17 (30 minutes, 2500 COP) and from there a mototaxi to Playa Blanca (20-30 minutes and about 10000 COP).
How to visit Fort San Felipe, and how much does it cost?
The fort is open to the public every day from 8:00 to 18:00 and admission costs 25000 COP. You can reach it on foot or alternatively by taxi. In my opinion it’s not particularly impressive.
Where to sleep in Cartagena?
Hostal Casa Torres Centro Historico: clean, well located, breakfast included and air conditioning in the room (highly recommended in Cartagena), all at a really good price compared to the competition.
The historic center of Cartagena.
San Andres
San Andres is a Caribbean island that is only 15 km in length and 4 km in width. It’s located about 700 km from the Colombian coast and only 200 km from Nicaragua, but it’s part of Colombian territory for all intents and purposes. Here, you’ll find dreamy beaches and a sea so enchanting that it’s called “Mar de siete colores” by the island’s inhabitants.
If you’re traveling on a limited budget, it’s good to know that there’s a tourist tax of 112500 COP and prices on the island are higher than in the rest of Colombia.
For more information, since I haven’t been there personally, I’ll refer you to this article.
The nearby island of Providencia, which you can reach by plane or with a boat trip of about 2 and a half hours, is less touristy and less developed.
How to get to San Andres?
San Andres can be reached by air from all major Colombian cities; airlines that fly to San Andres are Avianca, LATAM, Copa, JetSMART, and Wingo (updated October 2026). By booking in advance, you can fly round trip for less than 100€.
Johnny Cay island, San Andres.
Barranquilla
This city shouldn’t be part of your tourist itinerary unless it’s carnival time. The second most important carnival in Latin America after Rio de Janeiro takes place here, and in 2008, it was officially added to UNESCO’s list of Intangible World Heritage Sites.
Apart from the carnival, the city doesn’t have much to offer, and I was advised against it repeatedly. A reader who confirmed what I just said, telling me: “a city to avoid if you’re not planning to go there for carnival”, did however point out a few activities and places to visit in case you find yourself in town for whatever reason.
1) Carnival Museum; (Google Maps) 2) La Ventana del Mundo: a monument overlooking the sea at the northernmost point of the Barranquilla waterfront, very popular and iconic for the city. (Google Maps) 3) Malecon del Rio: a nice walk along the riverfront, really beautiful if you go there at sunset. (Google Maps) 4) Go to the typical restaurants and eat fish and carimañolas to your heart’s content! The latter are fried meat-and-potato balls, really good.
Santa Marta
Santa Marta is another port city located on the Caribbean coast, about a 4-hour bus ride from Cartagena; the city, which isn’t particularly pretty, doesn’t have much to offer but is an excellent base for exploring many tourist attractions in this region.
Where to sleep in Santa Marta?
Dreamer’s Hostel is an extremely popular hostel. A pool, restaurant, billiards, kitchen and a bar make it an excellent choice to use as a base for exploring the surrounding area.
What to do and see in and around Santa Marta
Minca
Minca is a small village tucked away in the mountains just outside Santa Marta. The microclimate and atmosphere make it a great place to spend a few days of total relaxation while sipping a good coffee or visiting some of the waterfalls in the area.
Until recently, Casa Elemento, home to what they say are the biggest hammocks in the world, was an extremely popular place to stay and enjoy the incredible views, but after changing management the place seems to be in “decline”. You can still visit it on a day trip by taking one of the many mototaxis that leave from the center of Minca or simply by walking for about 2 and a half hours.
How to get to Minca from Santa Marta?
Colectivos (shared taxis) leave from the intersection of Carrera 9 between Calle 11 and 12 for 8000 COP per person, once they’re full. Many hostels and hotels can arrange a door-to-door transfer if you’re a group of people or if you’re willing to pay the full amount.
Where to sleep in Minca?
Besides the Casa Elemento mentioned above, which no longer seems to live up to its reputation, other recommended hostels are Casa del Pozo Azul and Dunarinka.
Casa Elemento Hostel, Minca.
Taganga
Taganga is a small town overlooking the sea that isn’t far from Santa Marta. It has been a favorite destination for many backpackers for years; it’s a classic “party town”. Here, in addition to partying, relaxing and exploring the beaches in the surrounding area, you can go scuba diving and get your scuba certification; it’s one of the cheapest places in the world to do so.
How do you go to Taganga from Santa Marta?
Many minibuses frequently depart from the Santa Marta bus terminal via downtown, bound for Taganga (1600 COP); ask your hostel where the nearest stop is.
Palomino
Palomino, a bit like Taganga, is a former fishing village that has been invaded by travelers in recent years; here, in addition to surfing when conditions permit and relaxing, it’s possible to go tubing (riding down a river on inner tubes). The atmosphere here is much more relaxed than in Taganga.
How do you go to Palomino from Santa Marta?
Buses to Palomino leave near the market at the intersection of Calle 11 and Carrera 11 (10000 COP and approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes).
Where to sleep in Palomino?
Dreamer’s Hostel is undoubtedly the most popular (often fully booked, so it pays to book in advance); it’s practically on the beach and has a pool, a bar, and a restaurant. Just like the one in Santa Marta, it’s undoubtedly an excellent choice. Another hostel that I’d recommend is the Bella Flor Hostel; it doesn’t have a pool, and it’s further from the beach, but it’s incredibly cheap, breakfast is included, and the couple that runs it is simply fantastic.
Ciudad Perdida
Ciudad Perdida, literally the lost city, is the remains of a pre-Columbian city founded in around 800 A.D. (about 650 years before Machu Picchu) nestled in the jungles of the Sierra Nevada Mountains that was only discovered in 1972.
The ruins can only be reached on an organized tour of 4-6 days of trekking through the jungle. Although the ruins aren’t as impressive as Machu Picchu, they’re definitely noteworthy, and once you get there, there will be maybe a hundred people, compared to the thousands who visit Machu Picchu every day.
Along the way you sleep in very basic facilities. The heat, humidity and mud can make the “march” not particularly pleasant, but the beautiful landscapes you pass through and the ruins themselves undoubtedly make the whole experience something unforgettable.
To visit the Ciudad Perdida you have to join a tour, as the whole thing is regulated by the government; when I did it, the cost was 700000 COP all inclusive. Over the years the price has kept going up, and since January 2024 it has reached 2150000 COP; at this price I find it hard to recommend, especially if you’re on a limited budget.
The Ciudad Perdida.
Tayrona National Park
It’s an excellent destination for lovers of trekking, beaches and nature in general. Besides offering several jungle trails and the chance to relax on dreamy beaches, the park also provides hammocks and tents to spend the night in, as well as the more expensive bungalows.
How to visit Tayrona Park from Santa Marta?
Take the bus at the intersection of Calle 11 and Carrera 11 or anywhere along Av. El Libertador (if in doubt, ask your accommodation where the nearest stop is); it costs 6000 COP and the bus comes about every half hour.
Park entrance fee 62000 COP.
If you want to find out more, I recommend reading this post.
Cabo San Juan, Tayrona Park.
Planning your trip? If you still need travel insurance, you can find my guide to the best travel insurance here. Purchasing through the links in the guide supports this site at no additional cost to you.
La Guajira
Here we go slightly off the classic tourist itinerary, but it’s definitely worth it. La Guajira is a department in northern Colombia. The capital, Riohacha, is easily accessible by bus from Santa Marta and its surroundings, but the region’s real tourist attraction lies further north, where Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas are located a short distance from each other.
Cabo de la Vela is a small fishing village where the excellent conditions for kitesurfing attract more and more tourists. You can, of course, take kite lessons, or simply enjoy fresh lobster for a few euros and reach Punta Gallinas, the northernmost point in Latin America.
While getting to Cabo de la Vela by public transportation is easy, continuing to Punta Gallinas requires joining a tour, which also includes a mini tour of the area. Punta Gallinas has only one option for food and lodging (Hospedaje Alexandra). The lighthouse and the dunes dropping sheer into the sea are truly evocative spots that make this remote and wild place worth the visit.
How to reach Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas?
Whether you’re leaving from Santa Marta, Palomino, Taganga or any other town nearby, I recommend you head to Riohacha (practically all the buses that pass along the coastal road heading east go there) and stay at the Nueve Uno Hostel. Here you can get all the information you need to reach Cabo de la Vela by public transportation (my recommended choice) while spending as little as possible, or alternatively get pointed toward an organized tour.
Near Punta Gallinas.
San Gil
San Gil, located about 7 hours north of Bogotá by bus, is known as Colombia’s extreme sports capital. Here you can go whitewater rafting (rapids up to level 5!), paragliding (there are several options; I recommend the flight of about half an hour over the Chicamocha Canyon, which is really impressive and costs about 150000 COP, but there are other flights that are cheaper), mountain biking, canyoning and many other extreme activities.
If you decide to stop in San Gil, I recommend visiting Barichara on a day trip; it’s a really pretty colonial village only 45 minutes by bus from San Gil (9200 COP round trip), and the cemetery is really interesting. From Barichara you can walk the Camino Real (All Trails) to the village of Guane; the trail was restored in the 19th century by a German colonizer and is well marked, so you don’t need a guide (it’s also marked on Organic Maps).
The trail starts at the intersection of Carrera 10 and Calle 4 (northwest of Barichara) and takes about 3 hours, during which you’ll have fantastic views of the Chicamocha Canyon. Once you get to Guane, you can take the bus back to San Gil.
How to get to San Gil?
From Santa Marta it’s about 12 hours, 70000 COP.
From Bogotá it’s about 7 hours, 35000 COP.
Where to sleep in San Gil?
THIS IS COLOMBIA HOSTEL is well located, clean and cheap, and the staff is extremely kind and helpful. Recommended.
Rafting on the Rio Suarez, San Gil.
Villa de Leyva
Villa de Leyva is a colonial village that can be visited on foot, given its size, but there are other attractions in the area that can keep you busy for a couple of days. Since I haven’t been there personally, I’ll refer you to an excellent article that you can find here, which covers Villa de Leyva and Barichara.
How to reach Villa de Leyva?
Direct buses leave from the Portal del Norte Bus Terminal in Bogotá (about 3 hours, 20000 COP). If you come from San Gil, you must first go through Tunja (about 4 hours).
Leticia
Leticia is a city located on the banks of the Amazon River that serves as a central hub for visiting the Amazon rainforest and is part of a larger settlement that includes the Brazilian city of Tabatinga. Essentially, it’s a single city cut in half by the border between the two countries (you can cross from one side of the town to the other without having to go through immigration each time), while on the other side of the river is the city of Santa Rosa, which is part of Peru.
As already mentioned, the main reason for visiting the city is to see the Amazon rainforest and take part in all the tourist activities connected with it: cruises on the Amazon River, hikes, tours and so on.
Since I haven’t visited Leticia personally, I’ll refer you to this article, which describes the experience with one of the many tours available.
How to reach Leticia?
You can reach Leticia by plane from Bogotá with LATAM or Avianca; unfortunately, no low-cost airline flies this route (updated October 2026).
You can also reach Leticia by boat from Manaus (Brazil) and Iquitos (Peru).
Prices (often negotiable) and trip durations are approximate. There are also faster but obviously more expensive boats; food is included in both cases, but you need to buy your own hammock to sleep in, plus utensils and plates to eat with. Below you’ll find some examples. For more information, I suggest checking the “get in” and “get out” sections of the destination in question on wikitravel.org.
Tabatinga -> Manaus 3-4 days 150-200 Reales
Manaus -> Tabatinga 7 days 300 Reales
Santa Rosa -> Iquitos 2-3 days 20-25 dollars
If your trip continues on to Peru, I recommend reading my guide to backpacking in Peru.
Tatacoa Desert
The Tatacoa Desert is the second driest area in Colombia after La Guajira and is a short distance from the city of Neiva; it’s a remote place with few places to stay and no internet connection.
Here, the main attraction is the curious rock formations that form surreal labyrinths up to 20 meters deep.
Being a very remote and arid place, there’s almost no light pollution or humidity in the air, thus making it an ideal place for stargazing.
How to reach the Tatacoa desert?
To get to the desert, you have to go through the city of Neiva; from Bogotá it’s about 6 hours and 30000 COP. Once in Neiva, you have to take a minibus to Villavieja, about 7km from the desert (6000 COP, or 15000 COP to be taken directly to the desert).
Here you’ll find a detailed article about the desert and the astronomical observatory.
Tatacoa Desert
San Agustin
San Agustin is a small town in the department of Huila famous for its pre-Columbian statues.
What to do in San Agustin
The archaeological park (Google Maps) is undoubtedly the main attraction of the place; there are loads of statues and a small museum. It’s only 3 km from the town and can be reached on one of the frequent minibuses.
Open every day from 8:00 to 16:00 except Tuesday, 20000 COP.
El Estrecho del Rio Magdalena (Google Maps) is the narrowest point of the Rio Magdalena; here the river is just 3 meters wide. The surrounding landscape of lush nature and the energy the river gives off make it an interesting visit.
How to reach El Estrecho del Rio Magdalena?
Take one of the “camionetas” that leave from the intersection of Calle 5 and Carrera 14 bound for Obando.
Around San Agustin are other archaeological sites: La Pelota, El Purutal and the Obando Archaeological Park, in addition to the Salto de Bordones, which is the highest waterfall in Colombia.
Where to sleep in San Agustin?
Hotel casa de Nelly or Hostal Música y Arte.
How to reach San Agustin?
From Bogotá there’s a direct night bus, 69000 COP, about 9 hours.
From Popayan 5 hours, 33000 COP.
The archaeological park, San Agustin.
Cali
Cali is Colombia’s third-largest city by population and universally recognized as the salsa capital of the world; a bit like Medellin, it was linked for years to drug trafficking and violence, but here too great strides have been made in recent years.
What to do and see in Cali
Visit the San Antonio neighborhood (Google Maps): this is the oldest part of the city and the colonial style reigns supreme, so it’s definitely worth a walk. On the weekend the whole area fills up with street artists and stalls.
Cerro de Las Tres Cruces (Google Maps) is the hill with the three crosses at the top that dominates the city. I recommend going up early in the morning because it’s really hot in Cali; once you get to the top, besides enjoying the great view of the city, it’s really interesting to see the dozens of locals working out in the open air on the exercise machines up there. If possible, it’s best to go up on the weekend, when there are a lot more people (and police) on the various trails leading to the top, since there have been robberies in the past.
Parque Simon Bolivar (Google Maps) is a park that every evening becomes home to lots of stalls selling extremely cheap street food, light shows and plenty of people out for a stroll.
Dancing Salsa: as I said, Cali is world-famous for Salsa. You’ll find people dancing in the streets, impromptu stages and nightclubs on every corner of the city.
How to reach Cali?
From Bogotá it’s 10-12 hours and about 60000 COP.
From Armenia (coffee region), it’s only 3 hours and about 25000 COP.
Where to sleep in Cali?
La Palmera Hostel is new and well located, with honest prices and breakfast included.
Parque Simon Bolivar, Cali.
Popayan
Popayan is a beautiful colonial city known as the “white city”; it was an extremely powerful city during the colonial period, which is why there are lots of noteworthy buildings: Iglesia de San Francisco, Iglesia La Ermita, Iglesia de Belen, and Puente del Humilladero.
I didn’t go there personally because I preferred to head straight to Ecuador, so for more information I’ll refer you to this article, which also covers the town of Silvia, known as the little Switzerland.
How to reach Popayan?
From Cali it’s only 2 and a half hours and about 15000 COP. From Pasto it’s about 6 hours and 25000 COP, while from Ipiales (on the border with Ecuador) it’s about 8 hours.
Ipiales
Ipiales is a border town and a mandatory stop if you’re headed to Ecuador; if you have time, it’s definitely worth visiting the Santuario de Las Lajas (Google Maps), a Gothic-style church that is genuinely striking for its architecture and setting.
How to reach the Santuario de Las Lajas?
From the Ipiales bus station take a minibus, about 15 minutes, 2200 COP.
Minibuses to the border with Ecuador also leave from the Ipiales bus station, 1700 COP and about 10 minutes. Here you’ll find plenty of people willing to change your pesos into dollars (the rate is good and negotiable); once you’ve gone through both immigration offices, you can take a minivan to Tulcán and from there a bus to Quito or wherever your destination in Ecuador is (0.75$ or 2000 COP).
Heading to Ecuador?
Take a look at my Backpacking Ecuador guide.
Santuario de Las Lajas, Ipiales.
Suggested itineraries in Colombia
OK, now that you’ve read about all the possible destinations (to tell the truth, there are many more!), it’s time to think about a couple of itineraries of two weeks or more that don’t require absurd journeys and give you the chance to make the most of what this fantastic country has to offer.
Obviously, I recommend building an itinerary based on your own interests/activities; in any case, assuming your round-trip flight is to and from Bogotá, my advice is to focus on the northwest of the country, especially if you don’t have much time.
Two-week itinerary in Colombia
Bogotá (1 night)
Use the day to recover from the trip and explore La Candelaria, maybe by joining the free walking tour, and if possible go up to Monserrate. I recommend taking an overnight bus to save time and money.
Coffee region (2 nights)
Although I prefer Filandia, I recommend visiting Salento to make the most of your time, and spending one full day visiting the Cocora Valley, which I consider unmissable, and the other day visiting a few fincas or taking a coffee tour. Here too you can travel at night.
Medellin (2 nights)
I strongly recommend joining the free walking tour; for the rest, it really depends on your personal interests. You’ll find some interesting ideas in the section on Medellin.
Cartagena (2 nights)
You can take an overnight bus, but a domestic flight is cheaper and will save you a good deal of time, as well as guaranteeing a good night’s sleep. Visit the historic center. From Cartagena to Santa Marta is only 3-4 hours by bus.
Santa Marta (3 nights)
Here too it really depends on your interests: Tayrona Park, a few days of relaxing in Palomino or Minca, diving and a few parties in Taganga, or cutting your time short somewhere else and visiting the Ciudad Perdida are all excellent options. From here, I recommend heading down to San Gil on an overnight bus.
San Gil and Villa de Leyva (3 nights)
I recommend San Gil over Villa de Leyva because it has a lot more to offer in terms of activities, and if you want to visit a pretty colonial village, you can always go to Barichara on a day trip. In any case, you could always spend a night in Villa de Leyva before heading back to Bogotá.
Bogotá (1 night)
Here it depends a lot on your flight: if the timing allows, you could go straight to the airport from Villa de Leyva or San Gil without spending the night in Bogotá. Risky in case something goes wrong, but definitely possible.
Three-week itinerary in Colombia
My advice is to use the two-week itinerary and add one destination out of San Andrés, Leticia and La Guajira, depending on your preferences; alternatively, you could follow the two-week itinerary and move more slowly.
Four-week itinerary in Colombia
A month should be more than enough to visit the vast majority of Colombia’s main tourist destinations and complete the whole “circuit”, which I think is the most efficient, and therefore cheapest, way to get around the country.
How to get around Colombia
Let’s start by saying that public transportation is extremely efficient and cheap: buses, camionetas and colectivos go literally everywhere, partly because a lot of people don’t have their own vehicle and rely on public transportation. In 6 weeks, I think I took a taxi 3 times.
Whenever possible, for long journeys, I recommend traveling at night to save time and money (no need to pay for a night in a hostel/hotel). Many of the companies that cover the long routes offer excellent service, the buses are new and comfortable, and some even have Wi-Fi on board – Bolivariano, Expreso Brasilia and Copetran, to name a few.
Tips for long bus journeys
1. Bring a sweatshirt on board because, for some strange reason, all the night buses I took had the air conditioning set to arctic temperatures.
2. The ticket price is often negotiable, especially on long routes, so give it a try.
Some companies let you buy tickets online or on busbud. Honestly, I advise against it: ticket prices are lower if you buy directly at the terminal, and if you’re one of those people who wants everything planned down to the last detail or is simply afraid of being left without a seat, then buy your ticket for the next leg every time you arrive at the terminal of your destination.
Domestic flights in Colombia
As for domestic flights, I recommend taking a look at Wingo. Viva Colombia was a great option but went bankrupt.
Taxis in Colombia
In some cities you can use Uber (cheaper than regular taxis); if you go for taxis instead, remember that in some cities they use the meter, while in others it’s best to agree on the price before getting in, maybe by asking a local what the right price is for a given route.
The camioneta for the stretch between Uribia and Cabo de la Vela.
How much does a trip to Colombia cost
So, a round-trip flight booked a few months in advance shouldn’t cost more than 500/600€ – except for periods like August and New Year’s. In any case, I recommend reading my guide on how to find cheap flights.
To avoid unnecessary fees on withdrawals and card payments abroad, you can find my guide to the best travel cards here.
Cost of transportation in Colombia
As mentioned, getting around Colombia is relatively inexpensive as long as you use public transportation. For many destinations, you’ll find the cost of bus tickets (prices are approximate and, in some cases, may be out of date).
Cost of accommodation in Colombia
A bed in a good hostel costs on average between 20000 and 30000 COP; a lot depends on the city and the time of year.
Cheap hotels start at 40000 COP, while for something more luxurious, expect to pay at least 80000 COP.
For those who want to travel on a budget but aren’t willing to sleep in a dorm, I still recommend staying in hostels and taking a private room. Airbnb is undoubtedly another option.
Cost of food in Colombia
A menú del día, literally “menu of the day”, easy to find at lunchtime, costs on average between 7000 and 10000 COP including a drink, and in the evening street food is an excellent cheap option. A meal in a mid-to-upper-range restaurant, on the other hand, starts at around 40000 COP. Lots of hostels provide a kitchen and many places include breakfast. Exito is the biggest supermarket chain but not the cheapest. The cheapest are D1, Justo&Bueno and Ara, where you can sometimes find the same products as at Exito for 50% less. A local beer in a bar usually costs between 2500 and 3000 COP.
As a blog reader pointed out: “two signature dishes of Bogotá: Tamal and Ajaco, 9000 and 24000 pesos respectively at the “puerta falsa” in Bogotá (it’s on a street next to Plaza Bolivar). You CAN’T go to Cartagena without eating arepas de huevo, stop at a kiosk that fries them and buy some! I also really liked the meat ones.”
The typical light Colombian meal.
Cost of activities in Colombia
A lot of the tours on offer can be done independently with some planning and public transportation. Of all the destinations and activities mentioned above, the only ones that absolutely require joining a tour are the Ciudad Perdida, Punta Gallinas, a possible Amazon rainforest tour in Leticia, coffee tours and of course the extreme sports in San Gil. Entrance fees for parks and museums aren’t very expensive.
Finally, traveling on a budget, you shouldn’t have much trouble staying at around 35€ a day.
Backpacking Colombia: safety and security
Is Colombia dangerous? As repeated several times before, Colombia isn’t a particularly dangerous country, or at least it’s no more hazardous than other Central and South American countries. Of course, you need to use common sense, and certain neighborhoods should definitely be avoided, especially in big cities. For tips and tricks on how to travel safely, I’ll refer you to this article.
Are you planning a trip to Colombia? Check out these posts:
How to choose a good travel backpack
What to bring on a trip to Colombia
Do you have any questions? Updated information? Feel free to leave a comment or message me on Instagram!
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